SOUTHERN ITALY

AND

SICILY.

COMPARATIVE MONEY-TABLE.

Approximate Equivalents.

It

alian.

J American.

1 E

nglish.

Francs.

Centesimi.

Dollars.

Cents.

Pounds.

Shillings.

Pence.

_

5

1

Mi

—

25

—

5

21 2

—

50

—

10

—

5

—

75

—

15

7iU

1

—

, —

20

9»4

2

—

—

40

1

■P*

3

—

—

60

2

51

4

—

—

80

—

3

2i|2

5

—

1

4

6

—

1

20

—

4

93|«

7

—

1

40

—

5

7i|2

8

—

1

60

—

6

5

9 10

—

1

2

80

—

7 8

2'|2

20

—

4

—

16

25

—

5

—

1

100

20

—

4

—

ITALY

HANDBOOK FOE TRAVELLERS

BY

K. BAEDEKER

THIRD PART:

SOUTHERN ITALY AND SICILY,

with Excursions to the

LIPARI ISLANDS, MALTA, SARDINIA, TUNIS, AND CORFU

With 25 Maps and 16 Flans

Eleventh Revised Edition

LEIPSIC : KARL BAEDEKER, PUBLISHER.

LONDON: DULAU AND CO., 37 SOHO SQUARE, W.

1893.

All Rights Reserved.

'Go, little book, God send thee good passage, And specially let this be thy prayere Unto them all that thee will read or hear, Where thou art wrong, after their help to call, Thee to correct in any part or all'.

PREFACE.

The objects of the Handbook for Italy, which consists of three volumes, each complete in itself, are to supply the traveller with the most necessary information regarding the history and culture of the people he is about to visit, to render him as independent as possible of the services of guides and valets-de-place, to protect him against extortion, and in every way to aid him in deriving enjoyment and instruction from his tour in one of the most fascinating countries in the world. These volumes will also, it is hoped, be the means of saving the traveller many a trial of temper ; for there is probably no country in Europe where the patience is more severely taxed than in some parts of Italy.

The whole work is based on the personal acquaintance of the Editor or his friends with the places described, most of which he has repeatedly and carefully explored. As, however, changes are constantly taking place, he will highly appreciate any communications with which travellers may kindly favour him, if the result of their own observation. The information already received from numerous correspon- dents, which he gratefully acknowledges, has in many cases proved most serviceable. Hotel-bills, with annotations show- ing the traveller's opinion of his treatment and accommoda- tion, are particularly useful.

The Handbook for Southern Italy and Sicily, which now appears for the eleventh time, has been thoroughly revised and considerably augmented, and the information regarding Naples and its environs in particular has been carefully veri- fied. The account of the climatic and sanitary conditions of Naples given at p. xxiv is from the pen of a thoroughly com- petent observer, and while dissipating some of the exag- gerated notions which are prevalent regarding its unheal- thiness, may afford some useful hints for the traveller's mode of life in that town. The article on Ancient Art by Prof. R. KekuM of Berlin has been adapted for the use«of English travellers with the kind assistance of Mr. J. A. Crowe, the eminent historian of art, and will be found suggestive by visitors to the museums of Naples and Palermo or the ruins of Pompeii.

vi PREFACE.

The Maps and Plans, on which special care has been bestowed, will abundantly suffice for the use of the ordinary- traveller. The Map of Sicily, drawn by Prof. Kiepert of Ber- lin, is a reproduction on a reduced scale of the map of the Italian Ordnance Survey ; the rivers which flow all the year round are printed in blue, those which are generally dry in brown.

Heights are given in English feet (1 Engl. ft. = 0,3048 metre), and Distances in English miles. Populations are stated in accordance with the latest official returns.

Hotels. The inns of S. Italy and Sicily, with the exception of those of Naples, Palermo, and a few other towns, are sadly behind the requirements of the age ; but the Editor has in- dicated by asterisks those which he has reason to consider comparatively respectable , clean , and reasonable. The charges in the most frequented places have a constant ten- dency to rise, but those of the last few years are approx- imately stated in the Handbook for the traveller's guidance.

To hotel -proprietors, tradesmen, and others the Editor begs to intimate that a character for fair dealing and cour- tesy towards travellers forms the sole passport to his com- mendation, and that advertisements of every kind are strictly excluded from his Handbooks. Hotel-keepers are also warned against persons representing themselves as agents for Bae- deker's Handbooks.

CONTENTS.

Introduction. Page

I. Travelling Expenses. Money xi

II. Period of Tour. Language xii

III. Passports. Custom House. Luggage .... xiii

IV. Public Safety. Begging xiii

V. Intercourse with. Italians. Gratuities xiv

VI. Conveyances xv

VII. Hotels. Private Apartments. ....... xix

VIII. Restaurants, Cafe's, etc xx

IX. Sights, Theatres, Shops xxii

X. Post Office. Telegraph xxiii

XI, Climate and Health of Naples xxiv

XII. History of Ancient Art, by Prof. R. Kekule . . xxviii

History of the Kingdom of Naples xlvi

Route Routes.

1 . From Rome to Naples by Railway 1

2. From Rome to Naples via Terracina and Gaeta .... 11

3. Naples 19

Preliminary Observations:

a. Arrival. IJotels, Pensions, Restaurants, Cafes, etc. . . . 19-21

b. Carriages, Tramways, Omnibuses, Boats 21-23

c. Bankers, Money-Changers. Consulates. Physicians, Hospitals.

Baths. Post and Telegraph Office. English Churches . . 23-25

d. Shops 25, 26

e. Theatres. Street Scenes. Religious and National Festivals . 26-28

f. Duration of Stay and Disposition of Time. Guides . . 29, 30 Remarks on the Situation and Characteristics of Naples 30 I. Side next the Sea (from the Villa Nazionale to the

Piazza del Mercato) 32

II. The Toledo (from the Largo della Vittoria through the Strada Chiaja and the Toledo to the National Mu- seum. Strada Foria) 40

III. The Old Town. E. Quarters, between the Toledo and the Harbour (from the Strada Medina through the Str. Montoliveto to the Str. S. Trinita; Porta Capuana, Cemeteries, , Strada de' Tribunali) ... 42

IV- The Museum 55

V. Higher Quarters: Capodimonte, CorsoVittorio Emanuele,

Castel S. Elmo, S. Martino 80

VI. Hill of Posilipo 85

Excursion to Camaldoli 89

4. "Western Environs of Naples — Pozzuoli, Baise, Misenum,

Cumse 91

5. Procida and Ischia 104

viii CONTENTS.

Route Page

6. From Naples to Pompeii (and Salerno). Hereulaneum.

High-road from Naples to Pompeii *®°

7. Mount Vesuvius H~

8. Pompeii 11"

9. Castellammare, Sorrento, and Capri 143

10. The Gulf of Salerno. Paestum, Amalfl 159

11. From Naples to Benevento via Nola and Avellino . . 173

E. and S. Districts of S. Italy.

12. From Terni to Solmona through the Abruzzi .... 177

Gran Sasso d'ltalia. 180. — From Aquila to Avezzano, 181.

13. From Rome to Castellammare Adriatico via Avezzano and

Solmona 181

From Solmona to Caianello ^

14. From Avezzano to Roccasecca (Naples) 187

15. From Ancona to Foggia (Brindisi) 189

From S. Benedetto to Ascoli Piceno. 189. — From Giulia- nova to Teramo. 190. — From Termoli to Benevento. 191. — From Foggia to Manfredonia. 193. — From Foggia to Lucera. 193. From Foggia to Melfl. Venosa 194, 196

16. From Foggia to Brindisi and the Apulian Peninsula . 195

From Barletta to Bari via Andria, 196. — From Bari to Taranto, 199. — From Zollino to Gallipoli, 202.

17. From Naples to Foggia (Ancona) 203

18. From Naples to Brindisi via Metaponto and Taranto . . 207

From Sicignano to Lagonegro and Spezzano .... 207, 208

19. From (Naples) Metaponto to Reggio , 213

20. From Sibari to Reggio via Cosenza 218

21. From Naples to Messina by Sea 223

22. From Naples to Palermo by Sea • 224

Sicily.

General Remarks 225

Geography and Statistics 225

Historical Notice 233

1. Political History 233

2. History of Civilisation and Art . . .... 239

23. Palermo 246

24. Environs of Palermo 268

a. Acquasanta. Monte Pellegrino. The Favorita . . . 268

b. La Cuba. Monreale. S. Martino 270

c. Parco 273

d. S. Maria di Gesii. Favara. Campo Sant' Orsola . . 273

e. Bagheria. Solunto 274

Island of TJstica 276

25. From Palermo to Trapani 276

From Calatafimi to Segesta, 278. — From Castelvetrano to Selinunto, 280.

26. From Castelvetrano (Selinunto) to Girgenti .... 288

From Palermo to Sciacca via Corleone 289

27. From Palermo to Girgenti and Porto Empedocle . . . 290

MAPS. ix

Route Page

28. Girgenti 293

29. From Palermo and Girgenti to Catania 298

From Castrogiovanni to Catania via Caltagirone .... 302

30. From Girgenti to Syracuse via Palma, Licata, Terranova,

Modica (Val d'Ispica), and Palazzolo 303

31 . From Palermo to Messina by the Coast 307

From Gesso to Messina 313

32. Messina 313

33. The Lipari Islands 322

34. From Messina to Catania. Taormina 326

35. From Taormina to Catania round the "W. side of Mt. jEtna 333

36. Catania 336

37. Mount jEtna 341

38. From Catania to Syracuse 348

39. Syracuse 350

40. Sardinia 365

a. Cagliari and Environs 368

h. From Cagliari to Sassari 371

c. Sassari. Porto Torres 374, 375

d. From Cagliari'to Nuoro, with Excursions into the Mountains

of La Barbagia 375

41. Excursion to Malta 376

42. Excursion to Tunis. Carthage 379

43. Excursion to Corfu 387

List of Artists 392

Index 396

Maps.

1 . Map of Southern Italy , from Rome to Capo Palinuro (1 : 3,350,000), facing title-page.

2. Environs of Monte Cassino (1 : 50,000), p. 4.

3. General Map of the Environs of Naples (1 : 400,000), be- tween pp. 90, 91.

4. "Wbstbrn Environs of Naples (1 : 100,000) , between pp. 92, 93.

5. The Islands of Procida and Ischia (1 : 100,000), p. 104.

6. Eastern Environs of Naples. Mt. Vesuvius (1 : 100,000), between pp. 110, 111.

7. Peninsula of Sorrento and Island of Capri , between pp. 144, 145.

8. Environs of La Cava, Salerno, and Amalfi (1 : 100,000), between pp. 164, 165.

9. District bbtwebn Salbrno and P^stum (1 : 286,000), p. 165.

10. Environs of Taranto (1 : 50,000), p. 210.

11. District of Metapontum (1 : 50,000), p. 210.

12. General Map of Calabria (1 : 350,000), p. 214.

13. Environs op Palermo (1 : 75,000), p. 268.

x PLANS.

14. DistrictbetwebnCalatapimiandSegesta(1:50,000), p. 278.

15. District op Selinunto (1 : 50,000), p. 279.

16. Environs op Girgenti (1 : 50,000), p. 293.

17. Environs op Messina (1 : 400,000), p. 314.

18. Environs op. Taormina (1 : 50,000), p. 328.

19. Mount .Etna (1 : 300, 000), between pp. 342, 343.

20. Environs op Syracuse (1 : 50,000), between pp. 350, 351.

21. Map of Sardinia (1 . 1,350,000), p. 364.

22. Malta, Gozzo, Comino (1 : 500,000), p. 378.

23. Environs op Tunis (1 : 250,000), p. 379.

24. Map of Sicily, with the Lipari Islands (1 : 800,000), after the Index.

25. Railway Map of Italy (1 : 7,000,000), at the end of the Hand- book.

Flans. 1. Naples (1 : 10,100), p. 18. — 2, 3. Museo Nazionale al Naples, ground-floor p. 70, upper floor p. 71. — 4. Pozzuoli, p. 93. — 5, 6. Pompeii, general plan (1 : 4200), p. 120, plan of excavations (1 : 8500), between pp. 120, 121. — 7. House op Pansa at Pompeii, p. 120. — 8. P2estum (1 : 28,000), p. 165. — 9. Bari (1 : 10,000), p. 198. — 10. Palermo (1 : 13,000), p. 246. — 11, 12. Museo Na- zionale at Palermo, ground-floor p. 261, upper floor p. 263. — 13. Acropolis op Selinunto, p. 281. — 14. Messina and Environs between pp. 314, 315. — 15. Catania, between pp. 336, 337. — 16. Syracuse, modern town, p. 351.

Abbreviations.

R. =room; B. = breakfast; dej. = de'jeuner a, la fourchette; D. = dinner; S. = supper; L. = light; A. = attendance. — N. = north , northern , etc. ; S. = south, southern, etc. ; E. = east, etc.; W. = west, etc. — r. = right; 1. = left; min. = minute; hr. = hour. — M. = English mile; ft. = Engl, foot; fr. = franc, c. = centime.

The letter d with a date, after the name of a person, indicates the year of his death. The number of feet given after the name oi a place shows its height above the sea-level. The number ol miles placed before the principal places on railway-routes and high- Toads indicates their distance from the starting-point of the route.

Asterisks are used as marks of commendation.

INTRODUCTION.

"Thou art the garden of the world, the home Of all Art yields, and Nature can decree; E'en in thy desert, what is like to thee? Thy very weeds are beautiful, thy waste More rich than other climes' fertility, Thy wreck a glory, and thy ruin graced With an immaculate charm which cannot be defaced.

Bykos.

I. Travelling Expenses. Honey.

Expenses. The cost of a tour in Southern Italy and Sicily depends of course on the traveller's means and habits, but it may be stated generally that his expenses need not exceed those in- curred in the more frequented parts of the Continent. The average expenditure of a single traveller may be estimated at 15-25 francs per day, or at 10-12 francs when a prolonged stay is made at one place, while those who are acquainted with the language and habits of the country may reduce their expenses to still narrower limits. Persons travelling as members of a party also effect a considerable saving by sharing the expense of guides, carriages, and other items. When, however, ladies are of the party, the expenses are always unavoidably greater.

Honey. The French monetary system is now used throughout the whole of Italy. The franc (lira or franco) contains 1 00 centesimi; 1 fr. 25 c. = 1 A. = 1 German mark (comp. the money-table at p. ii). A piece of 5 c. is called a soldo (or sow). The gold and silver coins of Prance, Switzerland, Belgium, and Greece circulate in Italy, but they are very unwillingly accepted by the people in S. Italy, and in Sicily they are refused. The traveller should be on his guard against old coins from the papal mint, Roumanian and South American coins, which are much depreciated, and Greek copper coins. Even Italian silver coins issued before 1863 ('Be Eletto') are liable to refusal, as are also much worn coins of any kind. Base coins representing 1/2, l,or2 francs are very common. The only bank- notes now current throughout the whole country are those of the Banco, Nazionale and the Biglietti di Stato, but the notes of the Banco di Napoli also pass in Southern Italy, and those of the Banco di Sicilia in Sicily.

Best Money toe. thb Toto. Circular Notes or Letters of Credit, issued by the principal English and American banks, are very con- venient for the transport of large sums, and always realise the full current exchange. English banknotes also realise their nominal equivalent in the principal towns. A moderate supply of French Gold will be found desirable. Sovereigns are almost everywhere received as the equivalent of 25 fr., and sometimes a little more.

xii PERIOD OP TOUR.

In remote districts, however, especially in Sicily, all foreign money is refused.

Exchangb. Foreign money is most advantageously changed in the larger towns , either at one of the English hankers or at a re- spectable money-changer's ('cambiavalutd'). Those money-changers who publicly exhibit a list of the current rates of exchange are the most satisfactory. The exchange is effected more advantageously at Rome than at Naples or any of the other towns in S. Italy. The traveller should always stipulate for an abundant supply of small notes and silver, as it is often difficult to change those of large amount. Besides silver and small notes, l-li/2fr. in copper should also be carried in a separate pocket or pouch.

II. Period of Tour. Language.

Season. The season selected must of course depend on the traveller's convenience , but the best time for Naples , and par- ticularly for other parts of S. Italy and Sicily is spring, from the end of March to the end of May, or autumn, from the end of September to the middle of November. September is usually op- pressively hot, with numerous thunder-storms, and is therefore the worst month for the tourist. The rainy winter months had better be devoted to Rome. The hot season may be spent at some of the charming summer-resorts in the environs of Naples, such as Sor- rento, Castellammare, and Cava deiTirreni, but is unfavourable for travelling in the South of Italy. The scenery indeed is then in perfection, and the long days are hailed with satisfaction by the enterprising traveller ; but he will soon experience the enervating effects of exposure to the fierce rays of an Italian sun. These effects are produced, not so much by the intensity, as by the protracted duration of the heat, the sky being frequently cloudless, and not a drop of rain falling for many weeks.

At p. 29 the traveller will find various plans for excursions in the environs of Naples, and at p. 225 are others for a tour in Sicily. The other districts described in the Handbook are rarely visited by ordinary tourists, but those who desire to ex- plore them, whether in search of the picturesque, or for scien- tific purposes, will have no difficulty in framing an itinerary.

Language. The time and labour which the traveller has bestowed on the study of Italian at home will be amply repaid as he proceeds on his journey, and more particularly in Southern Italy and Sicily. It is quite possible for Englishmen to travel in the regions around Naples and Palermo, perhaps with the aid of a little French, but in this case the traveller cannot conveniently deviate from the beaten track, and is moreover constantly exposed to gross extortion. Those , therefore , who desire to derive instruction from their tour and to confine their expenditure within moderate

LUGGAGE. xiii

limits will find a slight acquaintance with the language + of the country indispensable.

III. Passports. Custom House. Luggage.

Passports. Passports are not absolutely required in Italy, but it is unwise not to be provided with one of these documents, as it may occasionally prove useful. Registered letters, for example, are not delivered to strangers unless they exhibit a passport as a guar- antee of their identity. The countenance and help of the Eng- lish and American consuls can , of course, be extended to those persons only who can prove their nationality. Excursions into the country in the southern provinces should not be undertaken without a passport.

Foreign Office passports may be obtained in London through E. Stan- ford, 26 Cockspur Street, Charing Cross, W. J. Adams, 59 Fleet Street, or Lee and Carter, 440 West Strand.

Custom House. The examination of luggage which takes place at the Italian custom-houses on the arrival of the traveller by land or sea, even when the vessel has come from another Italian port, is usually very lenient. Tobacco and cigars are the articles most sought for. "Weapons of all kinds are liable to con- fiscation (see p. xiv). The 'dazio consumo', or municipal tax levied on comestibles in most of the Italian towns, seldom of course requires to be paid by ordinary travellers. An assurance that their luggage contains nothing liable to duty generally suffices to prevent detention.

Luggage. If possible, luggage should never be sent to Italy by goods' train except through the medium of a trustworthy goods- agent, to whom the keys must be forwarded. As a rule, however, the traveller will find it advisable, and less expensive, never to part from his luggage , and always to superintend the custom- house examination in person. Articles of great value should not be entrusted to the safe-keeping of an trunk or portmanteau, how- ever strong and secure it may seem.

The enormous weight of the trunks used by some travellers not un- frequently causes serious and even lifelong injury to the hotel and railway porters who have to handle them. Travellers are therefore urged to place their heavy articles in the smaller packages and thus minimize the evil as far as possible.

t A few words on the pronunciation may be acceptable to persons unacquainted with the language. G before e and i is pronounced like the English ch; g before e and i like j. Before other vowels c and g are hard. Ch and gh, which generally precede -e or «, are hard. Sc before e or i is pronounced like sh; gn and gl between vowels like nyi and lyi. The vowels o, e, j, o, u are pronunced ah, a, ee, o, oo. — In addressing persons of the educated classes 'Ella' or 'Lei', with the 3rd pers. sing., should always be employed (addressing several at once, 'loro' with the 3rd pers. pi.). 'Voi' is used in addressing waiters, drivers, etc., 'tu' in familiar conversation only by those who are proficient in the language. 'Voi' is the common mode of address employed by the Neapolitans, but is generally regarded as inelegant or uncourteous.

xlv PUBLIC SAFETY.

IV. Public Safety. Begging.

Though at one time, and in fact down to the second decade after the establishment of the present kingdom, the state of public safety in Italy was far from satisfactory, yet for many years there- after it left nothing to he desired, and the isolated cases of highway robbery were not distinguishable in any way from similar crimes in other countries. Of recent years, however, the old Brigantaggio has reappeared in various quarters. Precautions are therefore again not to be despised , and travellers are recommended to make enquiries beforehand as to the security of the districts they propose to visit. Strangers, whose person and property are unknown, have, how- ever, much less cause for alarm than wealthy natives, who are known to be travelling with large sums of money. Expeditions on foot late in the evening and after nightfall should especially be avoided, even when this precaution involves giving up a visit to some object or place of interest. In the poorer and less frequented streets of Naples, Palermo, and other large towns, the stranger is certainly less safe^than in similar quarters in the large towns of other countries. The recently revived brigandage will doubtless soon be put down by the Italian government; but the only sure protection against the dangers of the poorer quarters of the towns is to avoid these streets altogether. In the towns the Ouardie or policemen , and in the country the Carabinieri, or gensdarmes (who wear a black uniform, with red facings, and cocked hats), will be found thoroughly re- spectable and trustworthy.

Weapons, which for the ordinary traveller are a mere burden, cannot legally be carried without a license, obtainable through the traveller's consul or ambassador. Those of a secret character, such as sword-sticks and stick-guns, are entirely prohibited and render the bearer liable to imprisonment without the option of a fine.

Begging still continues to be one of those national nuisances to which the traveller must habituate himself. The best mode of get- ting rid of importunate applicants is to bestow a donation of 2 c. or at most 5c, or else firmly to decline giving with — 'niente', or a gesture of disapproval. — The misplaced generosity of some travel- lers, especially to children, has encouraged a habitual importunity that seriously interferes with the enjoyment of the beauty of the country, especially in the neighbourhood of Naples and in some parts of Sicily. Still more reprehensible than the bestowal of an occasional gratuity upon children, is the foolish practice of 'scattering' copper coins to be struggled for by the street Arabs, etc.

V. Intercourse with Italians. Gratuities.

Travelling in South Italy differs essentially in some respects

from that in France, Germany, and Switzerland, or even in North

Italy and Rome, chiefly owing to the almost invariable necessity for

bargaining with innkeepers, cab-drivers, boatmen, and others of a

INTERCOURSE WITH ITALIANS. xv

similar class. The system of fixed prices is being gradually in- troduced, but it gains ground much more slowly in Southern than in Northern and Central Italy. On the principal routes, and especially in Naples, the insolence of the mercenary fraternity has attained to such an unexampled pitch, that the traveller is often tempted to doubt whether such a thing as honesty is known here ; but a more intimate acquaintance with the people will satisfy him that his misgivings apply to the above classes only, and not to the community generally.

Where tariffs and fixed charges exist, they should be carefully consulted. In other cases where an average price is established by custom, the traveller should make a precise bargain with respect to the service to be rendered, and never rely on the equity of the other party. lPatti chiari, amicizia lunga' is a good Italian proverb. In the following pages the average prices of hotel accom- modation and other items are stated with all possible accuracy, and although liable to fluctuation , will often prove a safeguard against gross extortion. The equanimity of the traveller's own temper will greatly assist him if involved in a dispute or bargain, and he should pay no attention whatever to vehement gesticul- ations or an offensive demeanour. The slighter his knowledge of the Italian language is, the more careful should he be not to in- volve himself in a war of words, in which he must necessarily be at great disadvantage. As a rule, the traveller may depend on the data in the Handbook. Where information is required, it should be sought from printed tariffs, from fellow-travellers, gensdarmes, respectably dressed persons present, occasionally from landlords, but seldom or never from waiters.

Gratuities. — The traveller should always be provided with an abundant supply of copper coin in a country where trifling donations are incessantly in demand. Drivers, guides, porters, and donkey- attendants invariably expect , and often demand as a right , a gratuity (buona rnano, mancia, da bere, bottiglia, caffe, sigaro, mac- cheroni), varying according to circumstances from 2-3 sous to a franc or more, in addition to their hire. The traveller need not scruple to limit his donations to the smallest possible sums, as liberality is often a fruitful source of annoyance and embarrassment.

VI. Conveyances. Railways. The remarks made in the first two volumes of this Handbook on the railways of Northern and Central Italy apply on the whole to the railways of Southern Italy also. The first-class car- riages are tolerably comfortable, the second resemble the English and French, while the third class is chiefly frequented by the lower orders. Among the expressions with which the railway-traveller will soon become familiar are — ^ronti (ready), 'partenza1 (de- parture), 'si cambia convoglici (change carriages), and luscita'

xvi CONVEYANCES.

(egress), which are shouted by the officials with characteristic vigour. The stationmaster is called 'capostazione1. Smoking com- partments are labelled lpei fumatori', those for non-smokers le vietato di fumare'. Railway time is that of the meridian of Rome, 52 min. ahead of that of Greenwich and 40 min. before Paris. +

When about to start from a crowded station, the traveller will find it convenient to have as nearly as possible the exact fare ready before taking tickets ('fare il biglietto'). In addition to the fare a tax of 5 c. is payable on each ticket, and the express fares are about 10 per cent higher than the ordinary. It is also important to be at the station early. The booking-office at large stations is open 40 min., at small stations 20 min. before the departure of the trains. Holders of tickets are alone entitled to enter the waiting- rooms. At the end of the journey tickets are given up at the uscfta, exoept in the case of the very large stations, where they are col- lected before the passengers alight.

The traveller is recommended to ascertain the weight of his lug- gage, if possible, before going to the station, in order to guard against imposition (1 kilogramme = about 21/5lbs.). No luggage is allowed free except small articles taken by the passenger into his carriage. Porters who convey luggage to and from the carriages are sufficiently paid with a few sous, where there is no fixed tariff. Those who intend to make only a short stay at a place, especially when the town or village lies at a distance from the railway, should leave their heavier luggage at the station till their return (dare in deposito, or depositare, 10 c. per day per cwt. or fraction of a cwt.).

Through Tickets to different parts of Italy are issued in Lon- don (at the principal railway-stations ; by Messrs. Cook & Son, Lud- gate Circus, Messrs. Gaze, 142 Strand, etc.), in Paris, and at many of the principal towns in Germany and Switzerland. They are generally available for 30 days.

Circular Tickets (viaggi circolari) for the S. Italian lines are issued under the conditions already explained in the first two parts of the present Handbook, and in the time-tables. The 'Indicatore Ufficiale' gives plans of the various tours, which extend as far as Sicily. Travellers provided with circular tickets from Northern Italy to Rome, may obtain, in connection with these, Teturn-tickets from Rome to Naples (41 fr. 90, 29 fr. 35 c. , 18 fr.), which are valid for the period for which the circular-ticket is taken.

Circular tickets require to be stamped at each fresh starting-point with the name of the next station at which the traveller intends to halt.

t The most trustworthy time-tables are those contained in the Indi- catore Ufficiale delle Strade Ferrate, delta Navigazione e Telegrafia del Regno d'ltalia , published at Turin monthly by the Fratelli Pozzo (with map, price 1 fr.), and in Italia, Orario del Movimento Treni e Piroscafi (1 fr.) published at Florence by Gius. Arnaboldi. It is advisable, however not to trust implicitly to their accuracy but to consult the local time-tables as well.

CONVEYANCES. xvii

If, therefore, the traveller leaves the train before the station for which his ticket has been stamped he must at once apply to the capostazione for recognition of the break in the journey Caccertare il cambiamenlo dt deslinazione'). When the traveller quits the prescribed route, intending to rejoin it at a point farther on, he has also to procure an 'annotuzio/ie'1 at the station where he alights, enabling him to resume his circular tour after his digression ('vale per riprendere alia s/.azione . . . il viagyio inler- rotto a . . .). If this ceremony be neglected the holder of the ticket is required to pay treble fare for the omitted portion of the route for which the ticket is issued. — Tickets for tours of 20 days or more may be extended for a period not exceeding half of the original duration, on payment of l°/o of the original price for each day of the extension.

Return Tickets (Biglietti d'andala e ritorno)ax& generally avail- able for one day only, except those issued on Saturday or the eves of festivals, which are available for 2-3 days. It should also be ob- served that if the traveller alights at a station short of his destin- ation he forfeits the rest of his ticket for the direction in which he is proceeding. In returning the ticket is not available unless he starts from the end-station for which the ticket was issued.

Steam Tramways (Tramvie a Vapore), now so common in N. Italy, are also already in use in some parts of S. Italy.

Steamboats. A voyage on the Mediterranean or Adriatic is highly recommended to the traveller in fine weather. If the vessel plies near the coast, the voyage is often entertaining ; and if the open sea is traversed, the magnificent Italian sunsets, lighting up the deep blue water with their crimson rays, present a scene not easily forgotten. Rough weather is not very often to be appre- hended in summer. Most of the routes in this Handbook are served by steamers of the Navigazione Oenerale Italiana, Ftorio $r Rubattino, the head office of which is in Rome.

Tickets should be purchased by the traveller in person at the office of the company. The ticket is furnished with the purchaser's name and destination, the name of the vessel, and the hour of departure. First and second class family- tickets, for not fewer than three persons, are issued by all the companies at a reduction of 20 per cent on the passage-money, but not on the cost of food. A child of 2-10 years pays half-fare, but in this case must share the berth of its attendant. Two children are entitled to a berth for themselves. — Enquiry should be made beforehand as to the punctuality of the vessel, as it sometimes happens in smaller ports that the shipment and unshipment of goods prolong the voyage for a day or more beyond the advertised time.

The Fikst Class saloons and berths are comfortably and elegantly lifted up, those of the Second tolerably. Second-class passengers, like those of the first, have free access to every part of the deck. Ofiicers ot the Italian and French armies, up to and including those of the rank uf captain, are entitled to second-class berths only. When ladies are of the party it is of course advisable to travel first-class.

Luggage. First-class passengers are allowed 70 kilogrammes (156 lbs. Engl.), second-class 45 kilogr. (100 lbs.), but articles not intended for per- sonal use are prohibited.

Food of good quality and ample quantity is generally included in the first and second-class fares. DtJeHner « la fourchette, served at 10, con- sists of 3-4 courses , table-wine , and coffee. Dinner is a similar repast between 5 and 6 o'clock. Passengers who are too ill to partake of these cpasts are provided with lemonade, etc., gratuitously. Refreshments, rniay of course be procured at other hours on payment (cup of coffee 25 c.i

Baedeiski:. Italy III. ilth Edition. b

xviii CONVEYANCES.

Fees. The steward expects 1 fr. for a voyage of 12-24 hrs., but more if the passenger has given unusual trouble.

Embarkation. Passengers should be on board an hour before the advertised time of starting. The charges for conveyance to the steamboat (usually I-IV2 fr. for each person with luggage) are fixed by tariff at all the seaports, and will be found in the Handbook. Passengers should there- fore avoid all discussions on the subject with the boatmen, and simply direct them to row 'al Vaticano', 'alia Bella Venezia', or whatever the name of the vessel may be. On the way, the boatmen often make demands extravagantly in excess of the tariff, such as, 'Signore,sono cinque lire!' — to which the passenger may simply reply, 'avanti', or if necessary he may threaten to call in the aid of the 'Capitaneria del Porto'' or superintendent of the port. On arriving at the vessel, payment should not be made until the traveller with all his luggage is deposited on deck.

The passenger gives up his ticket on board, receives the number oi his berth, superintends the stowing away of his luggage, and finally repairs to the deck to observe the progress of the vessel as it quits the harbour of which a fine view is generally obtained.

Diligences. Southern Italy is now so well provided with, rail- ways that only those travellers who seek a more particular acquaint- ance with the country and its people have occasion to use the Diligenze or Vetture Corrieri. These vehicles ply regularly only on the chief routes, hut even on the other roads there is seldom any difficulty in obtaining a conveyance. On the more frequented routes a Carriage with one horse may generally he hired for 3/4-l fr., and on the less frequented for ^j^/iix. per English mile.

Walking Tours. An Italian never walks if he can possihly drive; to him it is an inscrutable mystery how walking can afford pleasure. In the more frequented districts, however, such as the environs of Naples, the inhabitants are accustomed to this mania of travellers from the north ; and the numerous sections of the Italian Alpine Club, founded for the exploration of the Italian Alps as well as of the Apennines, have also introduced the habit among the native cultivated classes. Prolonged and fatiguing walking-tours, such as are undertaken in more northern climates, will be found impracticable in Italy. Cool and clear weather should if possible be selected, and exposure to the scirocco studiously avoided. The height of summer is totally unsuitable for tours of this kind.

Riding. A horse (cavallo), mule (mulo), or donkey (sommaro ; Neapol. ciuco ; Sicil. vettura, applied to all three animals), between which the difference of expense is trifling, often affords a pleasant and cheap mode of travelling, especially in mountainous districts, where the attendant (pedone) also acts as a servant for the time being. Side-saddles for ladies are also generally procurable. A bargain should be made previously , tutto compreso , a gratuity being added if the traveller is satisfied. The donkey-drivers have an unpleasant habit of inciting their animals to the top of their speed when passing through a town or village, and it is as well to warn them beforehand that their 'mancia' will suffer if they do not go quietly through the streets.

HOTELS. xix

VII. Hotels. Private Apartments.

First Class Hotels, comfortably fitted up, are to be found at Naples and some of the places in its vicinity, at Brindisi, Palermo, Messina, Catania, and Girgenti, the landlords of many of them being Swiss or Germans. Rooms 21/2-5fr., bougie 75c. -1 fr., attendance 1 fr. (exclusive of the portier and frequently also of the 'facchino' or boots), table-d'hote 4-6 fr., and so on. The charge for dinner does not include wine, which is usually dear. For a prolonged stay an agreement may generally be made for pension at a more moderate rate. Visitors are expected to dine at the table-d'hote ; otherwise they are charged more for their rooms. Meals served at special hours or in the travellers' apartments are charged considerably more. A charge of l-l'/2 fr- is generally made for the use of the hotel- omnibus from the station; a cab is therefore often cheaper and more expeditious, while it offers the additional advantage of enabling the traveller to proceed at once elsewhere if he is dissatisfied with the accommodation offered in the hotel he may have selected first.

The numerous Pensions in or near Naples, often kept by English or German ladies , are usually comfortable , clean , and moderate. Passing travellers are received at many of them even for a day or two. As the price of dejeuner is usually (though not universally) included in the fixed daily charge, the traveller must either sacrifice some of the best hours for sight-seeing and excursions, or pay for a meal he does not consume.

Second Class Inns may usually be found, especially in the neighbourhood of Naples, offering a reasonable amount of comfort and convenience. It is usual in these houses to arrange for a pension- charge (even for a single day), in which wine is generally included. In the larger towns, as in Northern and Central Italy, these inns generally have a trattoria in connection with them. Room 1V2-3, light and attendance 1 fr. per day. Enquiry as to charges, however, should always be made beforehand ; and in bargaining for a room the 'servizio e candela' should not be forgotten. An extortionate bill may even be reduced though no previous agreement has been made, but never without long and vehement discussions. Attendance is generally included in the charge for rooms ; but if not, 1 fr. per day may be divided between the waiter and the facchino, or less for a prolonged stay. — Travellers should not omit to provide themselves with matches (comp. p. 27).

The recommendations etc. of landlords with reference to hotels in other towns should be disregarded, as they are rarely disinterested.

Money and other valuables should never be left in the traveller's apartment, but should either be carried on the person or deposited with the landlord in exchange for a receipt.

Privatb Apartments are recommended for a prolonged stay. A distinct agreement as to rent should be made beforehand. When a house or a whole suite of apartments is hired, a written contract

b*

xx PRIVATE APARTMENTS.

on stamped paper should be drawn up with the aid of some one aquainted with the language and customs of the place (e.g. a banker), in order that all legal formalities may be duly observed and 'mis- understandings' prevented. To sign such a contract without reliable advice is distinctly dangerous. For single travellers a verbal agree- ment with regard to attendance, linen, stoves and carpets in winter, a receptacle for coal, and other details, will generally suffice. Comp. p. xx vi.

The popular idea of cleanliness in Southern Italy is behind the age, dirt being perhaps neutralised in the opinion of the natives by the bril- liancy of their climate. The traveller will rarely suffer from this short- coming in the better hotels and lodgings even of the second class ; but those who quit the beaten track must be prepared for privations. In the village- inns the pig (animate nero) is a privileged inmate, and the poultry are freely admitted. Iron bedsteads should if possible be selected, as being less infested by the enemies of repose. Insect-powder (polvere insetticida, or contro gli insetti, or Keating's ; better procured before leaving home) or camphor should be plentifully sprinkled on the bedsand on the traveller's clothing in places of doubtful cleanliness. The zanzare, or mosquitoes, are a source of great annoyance, and even of suffering, in summer and autumn. Windows should always be carefully closed before a light is introduced into the room. Light muslin curtains (zanzarieri) round the beds, masks for the face, and gloves are used to ward off the attacks of these pertinacious intruders. The burning of insect-powder over a spirit-lamp is also re- commended, and pastilles for the same purpose may be purchased at the principal chemists1. A weak solution of carbolic acid is efficacious in allaying the irritation caused by the bites.

A list of the Italian names of the ordinary articles of underclothing (la liancheria) will be useful in dealing with the washerwoman: shirt (.linen, cotton, woollen), la cai/iicia (di tela, di cotone, di lana); collar, it solino; cuff, ilpolsino; drawers, lemutande; woollen undershirt, una fia- iiella, or giuba di flanella; petticoat, la sottana ; stocking, la calza; sock, la calzetfa; handkerchief (silk), il fazoletto (di seta). To give out to wash, dare abucalo (di bucato, newly washed); washing-list, nota; washerwoman, laundress, la lavandaja, la siiratrice.

VIII. Restaurants , Cafes.

Restaurants of the first class do not exist in Southern Italy ; even in Naples good French cookery is to be found only in the large hotel*. The national Trattorie, however, are sometimes very good; and even in the smaller towns the traveller will have little difficulty in finding a tolerable, though not always scrupulously clean, establish- ment of this kind. In Sicily a trattoria is usually called Caffe. They <ire generally open from 11 a.m. (for the Collazione or de'jeuner), and are visually closed about 8 p.m. Dinner (Prrmzo) is usually taken between 5 and 8; either alia carta for l'/2-3 fr., or some- times a prezzo fisso for 2-5 fr. Italian customers have no hesitation in ordering away ill-cooked or stale viands, and they often inspect the fish or meat before it is cooked and make a bargain as to the price. Wine is usually brought in open bottles (p. xxii). The diner calls for the bill witli the words 'il conto'. The waiter (cameriere) expects a gratuity of 2-5 soldi. If too importunate in his recommendations or suggestions, he may be checked with the word %/stii'. — Residents for some time in a town should arrange to pay a monthly subscription

RESTAURANTS.

('pensione' ) at a lower rate, or, as is customary in Sicily, stipulate for

a reduction (sconto) of price, on condition taking so many meals a

month in the selected caffe.

List of the ordinary dishes at the Italian restaurants : —

Anlipasti, relishes or whets Minestra, or Zuppa, soup.

Brodo or Consume, broth or bouillon.

Zuppa alia Sante, soup with green vegetables and bread.

Minestra di riso con piselli, rice-soup with peas.

Risotto, a kind of rice-pudding (rich).

Paste asciutte, maccaroni; al sugo e al burro, with sauce and butter ; al pomidoro, with tomatoes.

Came lessa, bollita, boiled meat; in umido, alia genovese, with sauce ; ben cotlo, well done ; al sangue, al inglese, underdone; aiferri, cooked on the gridiron.

Fritto, fried meat.

Manzo, beef.

Arroslo, roasted meat.

Bistecca, beefsteak.

Majale, pork.

Arista, chine of pork.

Agnello, lamb.

Capretto, kid.

Monione, mutton.

Arroslo di vitello, roast-veal.

Testa di vitello, calf's head.

Fegato di vitello, calf's liver.

Costoletta or bracciola di vitello, veal- cutlet.

Costolella alia Milanese, veal-cutlet baked in dough.

Esgaloppe, veal- cutlet in bread- crumbs.

Ostriche, oysters (good in winter only).

Pesce, fish.

Sfoglia, a kind of sole.

Toiino, tunny.

Presciutto, ham.

Salame, sausage (usually with garlic, ctglio).

Uova, egg; da bere, soft; dure, hard; al piatlo, poached.

Aniira, duck.

Polio, fowl.

Polio oV India or Dindio, turkey.

Tordo, field-fare.

Crochelti, croquettes.

Qnocchi, small puddings.

Stufatino, cibrio, ragout.

Contorno , Guarnizione , garnishing, vegetables, usually not charged for.

Patate, potatoes.

Insalata, salad.

Polenta, maize-soup.

Carciofi, artichokes.

Asparagi, asparagus.

Spinaci, spinach.

Piselli, peas.

Lenticchie, lentils.

Cavoli fiori, cauliflower.

Fave, beans.

Fagivolini or Cornetti, French beans.

Funghi, mushrooms (often too rich).

Sale, salt.

Pepe, pepper.

Mostarda francese, sweet mustard.

Senape, Mostarda inglese, hot mustard.

Frutta or Giardinetto, fruit- desert; frulta secche , nuts, raisins, al- monds, etc.

Crostata di frutti, fruit-tart.

Crostata di pasta sfoglia, a kind of pastry.

Dolce, pudding.

Fritlata, omelette.

Fragole, strawberries.

Per a, pear.

Mele, apples.

Persici, Pesche, peaches.

Uve, grapes.

Fichi, figs.

Noci, nuts.

Limone, lemon.

Arancio, orange.

Pane francese or meranico, bread made with yeast (the Italian is without).

Finocchio, root of fennel.

Formaggio, or in S. Italy caccio, cheese.

The Maccaroni of Naples is much esteemed, but is generally hard, and should therefore be ordered 'ben cotti'. It is usually llavoured with pomi a"oro (tomatoes), of which the Neapolitans are very fond. Sea-fish and ragosta , a kind of lobster , excellent. Shell-fish soup (zuppa di von- gole), a good but indigestible dish.

Cafes are frequented for breakfast and luncheon , and in the evening by numerous consumers of ices.

Cafe noir (Gaffe nero) is most commonly drunk (15-25 c. per cup). Gaffe latte is coffee mixed with milk before served (30-35 c. ; 'capuccino\ or small cup, cheaper); or coffee latte, i.e. with|the milk served separately, may be preferred. The usual viands for lunch are liam, sau-age-', cullet-i and

xxii SIGHTS, THEATRES, SHOPS.

eggs. Ices (gelato) of every conceivable variety are supplied at the cafe's, particularly at Naples, at 30-90 c. per portion ; or half-a-portion (mezza) may generally be ordered. Sorbello, or half-frozen ice, and Granita, or iced water (limonata, of lemons; aranciata, of oranges; di caffe, of coffee), is chiefly in vogue in the forenoon.

The Wine Shops (Osterie) are almost exclusively frequented by the lower ranks. In shops outside the towns the wine is very cheap and often excellent. The numbers on the outside of the shops (4, 5, 6 etc.) indicate the price per 1/2 lltre in soldi- Bread, cheese, and eggs are usually the only viands provided.

Wine (vino da pasta, table-wine; nero, red; bianco, white; pastaso, sweet; asciutto, dry; del paese, wine of the country) is usually supplied in bottles one-half or one-fifth of a litre (un mezzo litro ; un quinto or bicchiere). Wines of a better quality are sold in ordinary quarts and pints.

Cigars (sigaro) in Italy are a monopoly of Government, and bad. The prices of the home-made cigars (Scelti Bomani, Virginias, Ve- vays, Cavours, Napolitani, etc.) vary from 7^2 to 18 c. Good im- ported cigars may be bought at the best shops in the large towns for 25-60 c, and also foreign cigarettes. — Passers-by are at liberty to avail themselves of the light burning in every tobacconist's, without making any purchase.

IX. Sights, Theatres, Shops.

Churches are open in the morning till 12, and generally again from 2-4 to 7 p.m. Visitors may inspect the works of art even during divine service , provided they move about noiselessly, and keep aloof from the altar where the clergy are officiating. On the occasion of festivals and for a week or two before Easter the works of art are often temporarily covered. Those which are always covered are shown by the verger (sagrestano) for a small gratuity (p. xv). — For the use of a chair in the churches a charge of 5 c. is fre- quently made.

Museums, picture-galleries , and other collections are usually open from 10 to 4 o'clock. All the collections which belong to government are open on week-days at a charge of 1 ft., and on Sundays gratis. Artists, but not scholars or authors, are always ad- mitted without charge. The attendants are forbidden to accept gratuities. The collections are closed on public holidays.

The Museo Nazionale at Naples, for instance, is closed on New Year's Day, Epiphany (6th Jan.), the king's birthday (14th Mar.), Easter Sunday, Ascension Day, Whitsunday, Corpus Christi, Festa dello Statuto (first Sunday in June), Day of SS. Peter & Paul (29th June), Assumption of the Virgin (15th Aug.), Birth of the Virgin (8th Sept.), St. Januarius (19th Sept.), All Saints' -Day (1st Nov.), Feast of the Conception (8th Dec.) and on Christmas Day. '

Theatres. The performances at the larger theatres, beginning at 8, 8. 30, or 9, and ending at midnight or later , consist ex- clusively of operas and ballets , the first act of an opera beins usually succeeded by a ballet of three or more acts. The pit (platea) to which holders of the ordinary biglietto d'ingresso are admitted is the usual resort of the men. For the reserved seats (scanni

POST OFFICE. xxiii

chiusi, sedie chime , poltrone , posti distinti) and boxes (palco) ad- ditional tickets must be taken. Ladies of course engage a box, or at least reserved seats. These seats should always be secured in ad- vance. — The theatre is a favourite evening-resort of the Italians, and silence during the performance of the music is never very strictly observed.

Shops rarely have fixed prices. As a rule two-thirds or three- quarters of the price asked should be offered (comp. p. 25). 'Non volete?' (then you will not?) is a remark which generally has the effect of bringing the matter to a speedy adjustment. Purchases should never be made by the traveller when accompanied by a valet- de-place. These individuals, by tacit agreement, receive at least 10 per cent of the purchase-money, which of course comes out of the purchaser's pocket.

X. Post Office. Telegraph.

In the larger towns the Post Office is open daily from 8 a.m. to 8 or 8.30 p.m. (also on Sundays and holidays), in smaller places it is generally closed in the middle of the day for two or three hours.

Letters (whether lposte restante', Italian '/erma in posta\ or to the traveller's hotel) should be addressed very distinctly, and the name of the place should be in Italian. When asking for letters the traveller should present his visiting-card instead of giving his name orally. Postage-stamps (francobolli) are sold at the post-offices and at many of the tobacco-shops. The Italian for letter-box is Buca or Cassetta (for letters, per le lettere; for printed papers, per le stampe~).

Letters of 15 grammes P/2 oz., about the weight of three sous) by town-post 5 c, to the rest of Italy 20 c, abroad (per Veslero) to any of the states included in the postal union (now comprising the whole of Europe as well as the United States, Canada, etc.) 25 c. The penalty (segnatassa) for insufficiently prepaid letters is considerable. — Postcards (cartolina postale) for both Italy (white) and abroad (green) 10 c, reply- cards (con risposla pagata), inland 15 c, for abroad 20c. — Book-packets (stampe sotto fascia) 2c. per 50grammes, for abroad 5c. — Kegistration- fee (raccommandazione) for letters for the same town and printed matter 10 c, otherwise 25 c. The packet or letter must be inscribed Craccomun- data^), and the stamps must he affixed in front at the different corners. — Post Office Orders payable in Italy, for sums not exceeding 10Z., are now granted by the English Post Office at the following rates : not exceed- ing 21., Gd. ; bl., Is.; 11., Is. fid.; 101., 2s. These are paid in gold. The identity of the receiver must be guaranteed by two well-known residents (perhaps the innkeeper and one of his friends or assistants). The charge for money-orders granted in Italy and payable in England is 40 c. per 11. sterling.

A Parcel Post exists between Italy and Great Britain, the rates and conditions of which may be ascertained at any post-office. The parcels must be carefully packed and fastened and may not contain anything in the shape of a letter; and a custom-house declaration must be filled up for each. Articles such as flowers, etc., not liable to duty are best sent as samples of no value (campione senza valore) in Italy 2 c. per 50 gr., abroad 10 c.

Telegrams. For telegrams to foreign countries the following rate per word is charged in addition to an initial payment of 1 fr. : Great Britain 26 c, France 14, Germany 14, Switzerland 6-14, Austria 6-14, Belgium 19,

xxiv CLIMATE. HEALTH.

Holland 23, Denmark 23, Eus.-ia42, No; way 34, Sweden 26 c. — To America fiom 33/4 fr. per word upwards, according to the distance. — In Italy, 15 words 1 fr., each additional word 6 c. Telegrams with special ha*te (telgrt.mmi nrgenti), which take precedence of all others, may he sent in Italy at thiice the above rates.

XI. Climate and Health of Naples. Climate. The hills in the vicinity of Naples only afford it par- tial protection against the -winds. The Posilipo and the heights of S. Elmo and Capodimonte shelter it tolerably well on the N.W. and N. ; but the N.E. (Tramontana), S.E. (Scirocco), and S.W. (TAbeccio) winds are opposed by no such natural barrier. The alter- nation of these air-currents from the N. and S. exercises the most material influence upon the temperature of the different seasons at Naples , and is the usual cause of the extreme variations which sometimes occur in the course of a single day. September is almost invariably hot and oppressive, but the first half of October is usu- ally much cooler, the mean temperature being about 65° Fahr. and the sky generally bright and cloudless. In November the rainy S. wind prevails, while in December, -when the N. wind blows, many fine days are enjoyed. The weather at this season is often re- markably mild. The mean winter temperature is about 50°, but in the cold nights of January the thermometer sometimes sinks 5-6° below freezing-point. Snow seldom falls in Naples itself, but in January the surrounding mountains are sometimes covered with a mantle of snow which imparts a bitter keenness to the E. and N.E. winds. Fogs are very rare. Towards the end of January, or in Feb- ruary at latest, the S. winds again predominate, and a rainy sea- son sets in, which often lasts till April. March resembles an English April in its changeableness, while April (mean tempera- ture 60°) is perhaps the most delightful month of the whole year. May (68°) is also an exceedingly pleasant month. In June, July, and August the prevalent winds are from the N. and N.E. The heat sometimes rises to 100° (mean 72-77°), but is pleasantly tem- pered by the sea-wind, which rises in the forenoon and blows till about 2 p.m., an advantage unknown at Rome or Florence.

In Mt. Vesuvius the Neapolitans possess a gigantic barometer. The direction in which the smoke issuing from the crater blows often announces a change of weather twenty-four hours beforehand. When it blows towards Capri , good weather may be expected (in winter a clear sky and cool temperature); when it is turned towards Ischia, we may look for E. wind (Greco Levante) and cold weather. Indications of the approach of the Scirocco are specially important as during the prevalence of this depressing wind, perfect repose is desirable. Thus, when the crater is concealed by a thick layer of clouds, we may expect S. wind, often accompanied by heavy rain. Another premonition of the scirocco is afforded when Capri appears of a dark blue colour and unusually near and distinct. Long low

CLIMATE. HEALTH. xxv

and regular -waves rolling in from the Bocca Piccola also as a nilo betoken the approach of the soirocoo.

Health. The sanitary condition of Naples has greatly improved of late years and is on the whole not unsatisfactory. The mistaken idea, however, that no change whatever need be made in his mode of life often exposes the traveller to risks which a little caution would easily evade. The principal danger to visitors to Naples con- sists in the so-called Neapolitan fever, a variety of typhus to which numerous strangers fall a prey. In the great majority of cases, however, this illness takes a favourable course ; and it is only when complicated with other maladies that danger to life need be feared. By far the most important of the modern improvements is the con- struction of the immense Aqueduct (Acqua di Serino), which now brings a copious supply of good water to the town from the Serino a river in the Apennines, several miles distant. Measures have also been taken to open up the crowded and infected lanes and alleys by demolishing houses and forming new streets, and finally a general sewerage system for the whole town has been begun.

Whatever be the primary causes of the often exaggerated evil sanitary reputation of Naples, the immediate or exciting cause may almost invariably be traced to imprudence on the part of the trav- ellers, especially of those who wish to see everything in the shortest possible time, allow themselves no time for repose, and neglect the commonest sanitary precautions. It cannot be too emphatic- ally asserted that nearly all the acute diseases by which visitors to Naples are attacked are due to imprudences in diet , to ne- glected colds, or to excessive fatigue. Even the hardiest traveller from the N. should take the utmost care in avoiding these three provocatives of disease. On the smallest symptom of indisposition, all excursions should be given up until the nervous system has recovered its usual tone. A physician should also be consulted. Malarial affections are most generally incurred on excursions to Lago Agnano or Baiae, or other places in the Phlegraean Fields. Psstum and the railway -journey through the Roman Campagna are also more or less dangerous in this respect. The best pro- phylactic measures consist in warm clothing, an avoidance of the hours of sunset, and the shutting of the windows in the railway- carriage. Those who, notwithstanding all precautions, are attacked by malaria should at once seek change of air in Sorrento, Capri, or La Cava. Naples is often trying for persons with weak lungs on account of the sudden changes of temperature in winter, and such persons should not fix their abode here without medical ad- vice. Pozzuoli or Capri is generally much more congenial to pa- tients of this class.

Rooms, or at least bedrooms, facing the S. are almost essential for the delicate and highly desirable for the robust. If such can- not be obtained , those facing the W. are the next best in win-

xxvi CLIMATE. HEALTH.

ter, those facing theE. in summer. Corner rooms and lodgings on the ground-floor should be avoided. The uppermost floors of house are often damp on account of the thinness of the walls and ceilings. Care should be taken to see that all the doors and win- dows close satisfactorily. The healthiest parts of the town are the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the Rione Principe Amedeo, and the Pizzo- faleone. The upper part of the Strada Santa Lucia may be recom- mended to those who do not fear a little wind and dust. There are also numerous comfortable and healthy dwellings in the Strada Chiatamone , the Riviera di Chiaja , and the Mergellina , although the drains here emptying themselves into the sea often pollute the air very perceptibly when the wind blows inshore. One of the physicians mentioned at p. 2i should, however, in this case be consulted in the choice of a dwelling, as many of the houses here are so defective in hygienic arrangements that they are positively unhealthy and dangerous.

The visitor to Naples should as a general rule wear warmer clothing than he would at home in a similar temperature. Natives are generally much more careful in this respect than strangers, as they know from experience that a cold at Naples is too likely to usher in a severe illness. The traveller should therefore always he provided with a greatcoat or shawl, which he should make use of in the evening, when sitting in a carriage or boat, or when exposed to sudden alternations of sun and shade. Exposure to the summer sun should be avoided as much as possible, and a sunshade should be used both in walking and driving. Long walks should be avoided as much as possible; fortunately the low fares of the cabs and tramways make driving comparatively inexpensive. It is also necessary to he warmly covered during sleep ; the supply of bed- clothes at the hotels and lodging-houses is often apt to be scanty.

Moderation in eating and drinking is , of course, imperative. The appetite gradually decreases under a southern sun, but at first strangers are sometimes apt to eat excessive quantities of macca- roni, cheese, fruit, etc. The traveller should adopt the Neapolitan custom of rejecting fish that are not quite fresh. Oysters are also dangerous here when not fresh ; and cases of typhus have been traced to the consumption of oysters from S. Lucia (p. 36), where the shell-fish are kept in undesirable proximity to the mouths of the sewers. It is safer, therefore, to dispense with this luxury al- together. Ripe fruit eaten in moderation at^ meals is perfectly wholesome , but the fruit offered at table-d'hote even in the best hotels is often unripe , as the Neapolitans prefer it in this state. Water-melons (Anguria) and the figs of the Indian cactus are bet- ter left untouched. A free indulgence in fruit should be especially avoided in autumn, when the excessive heat predisposes to diar- rhoea. The Sorbe, a kind of fruit resembling the medlar and con- taining a large quantity of tannin, is often useful in counteract-

CLIMATE. HEALTH. xxvii

inga diarrhceic tendency. A dozen or so of this fruit may be eaten at once without fear of prejudicial consequences. Diarrhoea induced by 'violent exertion in hot weather may often be cured by the use of Oranita (p. xxii). Rice and the homoeopathic tincture of cam- phor are also common remedies, but thorough repose is the chief desideratum. The ordinary red wines of the country are usually sound and good, and a moderate use of them when pure may be thoroughly recommended. Those who find them unpalatable should drink claret. The native white wines, though generally lighter than the red, are too astringent in their action.

ANCIENT ART,

from the German of

Prof. Reinhard Kekule.

Wir tragen Die Trammer hiniiber Und klagen

Uber die verlume Sehone ! (Goethe).

The traveller whose attention is directed to the treasures of the National Museum at Naples, to the relics of antiquity scattered throughout Southern Italy and Sicily, and who, possibly setting foot on the soil of Attica, finds himself, if favoured by fortune, in the presence of her glorious ruins — has in all probability had his appetite whetted in Rome, and has there collected such data as he will readily apply to all that presents itself as new to his obser- vation. But even he who turns himself at once to the contemplation of an heritage of antiquity such as that comprised in the favoured regions of Campania and Sicily has the promise of a rich and ab- undant harvest, if he but know how to prize its fruits.

The National Museum partakes in many of its departments of the same character as the Vatican with its statue world, and in- cludes many works in marble which have indeed been brought thither from Rome, notably those formerly belonging to the Farnese family. By the careful observer many of the statues will be re- cognised as repetitions of those already seen in Rome. They belong to the numerous class of copies made from renowned masterpieces, which in the old Roman time were indispensable adjuncts to a display of wealth and refinement. Many of these marbles betray, owing to a certain redundancy and pliancy of outline, a taste peculiar to people of these coasts upon which Nature has lavished her choicest gifts. The exquisite Greek coins remind us that we are in a land that was once the thriving and envied seat of Greek cul- ture : innumerable tripods, candelabra, lamps, braziers, jars, jugs, caskets, bracelets, needles, house and kitchen-utensils of all kinds, weapons of warriors and gladiators, the numerous figures in bronze, above all a stately array of some hundreds of wall-paintings, unique in the world , indicate with sufficient clearness that here are col- lected the results of excavations which present as in a mirror a complete and charming picture of ancient lite, and that we are in the immediate neighbourhood of Pompeii, Herculaneum, and Stabiie, long buried at the foot of Vesuvius.

His first impression of purely Greek art the Northern traveller

ANCIENT ART. xxix

in Italy receives at Paestum. The drive through a lonely, silent country; the picturesque beauty of the ruins and landscape with the glittering sea in apparently close proximity; the melancholy re- flection that these proud temples before their decay looked upon a thriving Hellenic city amid the smiles of nature, instead of a fever-stricken pestilential wilderness : all this serves so to excite the susceptibility of the beholder, that lie will find the impression produced by these ruins , conspicuously that of the Temple of Jupiter, almost more overpowering than even the spectacle of the Roman forum. There the scale, the solidity and splendour of the edifices, as well- as the surpassing wealth of form and sculptured ornament, are imposing. Here the architecture appears externally poor in merely superficial decoration : poorer than it had originally been. The coating of stucco , so fine and firmly set that it gave to the porous limestone a surface smooth as marble , is shattered and weather-stained , the forms themselves have extensively suffered ; wind and weather have obliterated the coloured leaves which de- corated the heavy collars of the capitals together with all that gay adornment bestowed according to Greek custom. But precisely in this absence of adornment , in a simplicity which brings to view only what is indispensable and essential, does this stern Doric temple with its dense array of mighty columns, with its lofty and ponderous entablature and far-reaching projection of cornice, in the clear and simple disposal of the masses, in solemnity and strength of proportion, in beauty and distinctness of outline, pre- sent itself as a revelation of the spirit of Greek architecture, which so fills its with amazement that we are apt to overlook the very slight expenditure of material space employed to produce this in- comparable impression of grandeur and sublimity. One who has seen the ruins of Paestum will have the more pleasure in examin- ing less impressive mementoes of the Greek ages from the city dedi- cated to Poseidon — the fine monumental paintings from Pfestum in the National Museum of Naples : Warriors departing for the combat whence they are never to return.

The Temple of Poseidon at Paestum is ascribed to the close of the 6th century B.C. From a far remoter past, however, dates the fragment of art-history which we are enabled to trace in Seli- nunto, although it cannot of course be deciphered on the spot from its ruins alone. The imagination is less severely taxed to supply all that is lost to the beauteous ruins in Segesta and Oirgenti. In Selinunto the effects of earthquakes have been so destructive that a clear conception of the temples can only be attained by reference to the architects' plans and drawings. The sculptures belonging to these temples, brought to light by recent excavations, are to be found in the Museum of Palermo. The oldest temple, usually distinguish- ed by the letter C, is that on the Acropolis. This was probably de- dicated to Apollo as god of succour, and was erected immediately

xxx ANCIENT ART.

subsequent to the foundation of the city, an event assigned variously to B.C. 651 and B.C. 628. The neighbouring and northernmost temple of the Acropolis, D, presumably sacred to Athena, is scarcely more recent. In the three metope-reliefs which belong to the first- named temple C, scarcely a trace of Grecian beauty is discernible; indeed they are almost ludicrously primitive and rude. And yet they afford an instructive insight into the rudimentary Sculpture of the Greeks. Possibly, in the place for which they were designed, aloft between the triglyphs of a Doric frieze, and set in a frame- work of strong and clearly defined architectural lines, the reliefs may have had a less repulsive effect. But it is curious to ob- serve how the same stage in art which had in architecture attained to an essentially coherent system , primitive perhaps in its severity and unwieldiness , yet conveying the impression of harmony in its completeness, should in the rendering of such figures as would con- tribute to its architectural ornamentation be beset by a childish restraint and uncertainty of aim ; how the same eye that watched over the ordered arrangement of each part and proportion as well as the delicate rendering of each line and ornament of the building, could be content to give representations of mythical events , which, as it appears to us, must have exhibited an aimless and startling conspicuousness and a grotesque vivacity, entailing the disfigurement of the human form and the entire sacrifice of natural proportion. And yet in these characteristics lies the germ of a mighty future, in the religious enthusiasm which anim- ated the artist as he strove to give intelligible expression to the sacred history which he had to relate, in the independence and directness with which he embodied its purport in sculp- tured forms. Not that we can suppose such scenes to have been altogether new to him. He might have seen them in other places and in earlier times. But he had to mould them anew and from his own individual resources , without available pattern, and without that readiness in execution which the hand can only acquire by frequent exercise. The head of Medusa alone, this earliest figurative expression of destruction and horror, is clearly and unfailingly pourtrayed. To the artist as well as his contem- poraries this poverty in execution was not apparent. Their sucess- ors were not slow to make far different pretensions. If a kind fate had preserved the single statue of the youthful god that stood in the sanctuary, or at some future time should discover it to us, we should probably be overwhelmed with astonishment at the con- trast presented by the statue to the reliefs. At a time when such reliefs as these were possible, Greek art had already possessed itself of a definite type for the statue of Apollo , and for the youthful form generally, in archaic stiffness, but conformable with the law of nature in shape and proportion ; while by constant comparison with nature it continued to gain in purity and truthfulness.

ANCIENT ART. xxxi

By the same process representation in relief is gradually en- nobled. Offences against proportion and drawing are more easily overlooked in relief than in a lifesize work in the round ; the sus- ceptibility of the eye moreover is more readily forgotten in the in- terest excited by the pictorial narration. The monuments of Seli- nunto are pre-eminent in the opportunity they afford for observing on the spot what has sprung from these beginnings. Of the group on the Eastern hill the Temple F in point of time is next to those of the Paean Apollo and of Athena. Then come Temple 6, likewise dedicated to Apollo, one to Juno E, and lastly Temple A, occupy- ing the Acropolis. Temple F still belongs to the 6th century B.C., a period when the building of the Apollo Temple 0 had begun, to be completed at a later period. The Heraeum (Temple of Juno) E and temple A date from the middle of the 5th century B.C. or not much later. Two halves of metope-slabs have been brought to light which adorned the temple F (a god and goddess contend- ing with giants), and four similar slabs from the Heraeum are so far preserved that they furnish a sufficiently intelligible repre- sentation of Zeus and Hera , Artemis and Actaeon , Heracles and the Amazons, and Athena contending with the Giants.

In both metopes from F extraordinary clearness and animation again arrest the attention. The impetuous rush of the victorious goddess, the dying agonies of the fallen giant, his head convulsive- ly thrown back, his mouth open and grinning, his utter helpless- ness, are rendered with a turbulence , and with an expenditure of means, which appear to us very much in excess of what is needed for clear expression, and which simply outrage instead of satisfying one's sense of the beautiful. The two art -stages to which these reliefs, and the quaint rudeness of those of the Apollo Temple on the Acropolis belong, offer a certain analogy. In both cases all available means are applied with recklessness and in excess. Those, however, at the disposal of the later artist were infinitely richer and more, perfect. While his predecessor had not altogether mastered the forms of art , he had acquired a certain familiarity with them, though at the cost of much toil and trouble ; but his power was so new and unwonted that he could not refrain from abusing it. The Metopaefrom the Heraeum on the other hand, which mark the maturity of archaic art, show a command of expression ennobled by a fine perception of the beautiful. These qualities declare themselves most felicitously in the two compositions which represent the meeting of Zeus and Hera on Mount Ida and Artemis punishing Actseon. The expression of godlike serenity and joy which pervades the first scene transcends all similar efforts whether of earlier or later art : while the second is scarcely less admirable from the way in which the unmistakable wildness of the subject is subdued to something like softness by modulation of movement and occupation of allotted space. The technical method employed in the more recent metopes

sxxii ANCIENT ART.

is peculiar. In the antique vases with "black figures on a red ground the men are usually black, and the women, as far as the body itself is visible, white. Here the indication of the lighter and darker flesh colour of the two sexes has superficially supplied a necessary char- acteristic. But the perfected art also resorted to this distinction in rendering flesh-colour. In the paintings of Pompeii the bronzed, sunburnt bodies of the men form an effective contrast to the deli- cate and fairer forms of the women. Something of the same kind is found in the metopes of the Herseum. As the entire temple is of tufa, they too are of the same material. Owing to the rugged and faulty nature of the material the architect resorted to a coating of stucco upon which he displayed his gaudy decoration. In the reliefs on the other hand the nude forms of the women are given in white marble. The harmony of the different portions of the reliefs, multiform as they were , was restored by a profuse appli- cation of colour, which the purely architectural accessories also re- quired.

Every new discovery, in which the excavations of the last twenty years have been so prolific, brings the sculptures of Selinunto one step farther from the artistic isolation which presented them as al- mostinsolubleproblemsto the original discoverers. The quaint, crude reliefs of Temple C recall by the style of their carved forms the curious poros-sculptures which have been exhumed on the Acropolis at Athens ; and doubtless their colouring was as vivid and striking as the colouring of those sculptures. The powerful reliefs from Temple Fy with their representations of warriors exerting their strength to the full, range themselves side by side with the Combats of the Giants from the treasury of the Megarans at Olympia. The beautiful metopes of the Herajum exhibit a close affinity with the sculptures of the temple of Zeus at Olympia. They may perhaps display a more successful and more charming gracefulness than the Olympian works; but in the methods of composition, in the naive vivacity of the aesthetic sense, and even in the conception of nature, it is impossible to fail to recognize in both the same artistic method, founded on the common ground of an equal artistic development, and very clearly differentiated, for example, from the yEginetan marbles. With the artistic style of the sculptures from the Heraeum at Selinunto, may be compared the newly discovered Ionic temple at Locri, as affording an example of a not very alien method of treatment.

Beside all these original decorative sculptures, there is an ad- mirable copy of a great work of not much later date that ably main- tains its place in virtue of its majestic severity and restrained energy. This is the Farnese Head of Juno (p. 62), which at once recalls to our minds the Artemis of the Herjeum at Selinunto. In a well- known passage in his history of art, Winckelmann describes per- fect beauty as twofold , as having a double grace : the one as winning , — 'she descends from her eminence , revealing herself

ANCIENT ART. xxxiii

to the observant eye with a suavity devoid of self- abasement: she is not over-anxious to please, hut would not he over- looked'. The other is self-sufficient and would he sought rather than court attention , — 'she holds converse only with the wise, appearing to the populace inimical and austere, she conceals the emotions of her soul, and nearly attains to the blessed repose of the divine nature : and thus according to ancient writers the greatest artists sought to pourtray her'. To those who know how to observe will be revealed beneath the austere solemnity of this Far- nese Juno an impressive picture of godlike repose and majesty.

The sculptures of the Temple of Zeus and the Ilersum at Seli- nunto find a parallel as regards violence of action and motion in the group of the tyrant-slayers Harmodius and Aristogiton, in the Museo Nazionale at Naples (p. 62), a marble copy of that work of Critios and Nesiotes which stood in the market-place at Athens. But in this group we may detect traces of an art that was under different conditions. The two Athenians rush to the attack, the sword of the younger being raised to strike ; the older of the two (the head of this figure does not belong to it, the original was bearded) is at hand to protect his brave comrade, as soon as the time comes for him to interfere ; and here the words of the great authority already quoted, in reference to the attributes of a severe style, are applicable : 'The drawing was impressive but hard, powerful but devoid of grace. The force of expression detracts from the beauty' . . . 'Art was hard and severe as the justice of the time which punished the most trifling offence with death'. The same violence of action and rendering of form are observable in the reliefs from the "W. pediment of the temple of Zeus. But the reliefs appear wild, almost disordered and devoid of beauty, beside the symmetrical accuracy and precision, the concentrated power, the beautiful flow of lines in the Attic group of the murder of Hippias.

Though in the National Museum there may not be found any very pure or important example of the Attic school of Phidias' time, a succeeding school is most happily illustrated by the Orpheus Belief (p. 66). Orpheus is permitted to bring his consort Eurydice out of Hades and to restore her once more to the light of the sun on con- dition that he shall not look upon her during the passage. He has failed to fulfil this condition. Hermes, the conductor of departed souls, with gentle measured gesture takes the hand of Eurydice to consign her anew to the realm of shades. In contemplating this com- position, beautiful in its simplicity as it is, hope and dismay altern- ately possess us. The advance of the train , Orpheus in the act of casting the fatal glance , the confiding communion of man and wife are quite unmistakable , as well as the interruption of their pro- gress and the subsequent return of Eurydice. And here we may pause to wonder how antique art could present powerful effect clothed in persuasive beauty, or, if subdued , yet with striking ex- Baedeker. Italy III. 11th Edition. c

xxxiv ANCIENT ART.

pression: and with what a modest expenditure of means she could assert 'this nohle simplicity and grandeur of repose'. Even in its own time this work must have enjoyed a considerable reputation, as replicas are still to he seen in the Villa Alhani at Rome and in the Louvre at Paris. The Neapolitan example is the most beauti- ful, and the severest too, of those extant. It may he remarked, hy the way, that the inscriptions introduced, though they may he cor- rect in the explanation they give, must be of doubtful antiquity.

The Argive school of the latter half of the fifth century had as its head the famous Poltcletus. He frequently used earlier works, even of the Attic school, altering them according to a deliberately defined ideal of formal beauty and harmonious effect. An excellent example of his style is afforded by the fine reproduction of his Dory- phorus from the palestra at Pompeii (now in Naples).

By far the greater number of sculptures in Naples belong like those in Rome to a more recent period of Greek art. The prostrate Amazon stretched out in death, a Dead Persian, a Dead Qiant, and the Wounded Gaul, which will be readily recognised from its resemblance to a master-piece of the Pergamenian school, the Dying Gaul in the Museum of the Capitol (the so-called dying- glad iator), are parts of a votive offering of King Attalus of Perga- mum at Athens, of which single figures are to be seen in Venice and in Rome.

The colossal group of the so-called Farnese Bull (p. 60), which brilliantly represents the Rhodian School, is more likely to arrest attention. This group will produce a powerful impression upon most beholders, and this not hy force of its material hulk alone. The effect would have been even more impressive, had the work of restoration been successful, particularly in the standing female figure. It will be worth our while to analyse the nature of this effect, as well as the forces which contribute to it. An occurrence full of horror is presented to our view. Two powerful youths are engaged in binding on the back of a furious bull the helpless form of a woman. The mighty beast is plunging violently, and in another moment will be away, hurrying the burden he is made to hear to the terrible doom of a martyr. As soon as we have attained to an accurate conception of what is passing before us, horror and dismay rather than pity take possession of us. What impels the youths to the deed? How is it that they are allowed to effect their purpose undisturbed? The answer is to be found outside the work itself. Antiope, expelled by her father, has given birth to Amphion and Zethus and abandoned them. The sons grow up under the care of an old shepherd. Antiope has yet other sufferings to endure at the hands of her relation Dirce who maltreated her. Dirce wander- ing on Mount Cythaeron in bacchanalian revel would slay the victim of her persecutions. She bids two young shepherds bind Antiope to a bull that she may thus be dragged to her death. The

ANCIENT ART. XXxv

youths recognise their mother before it is too late: they consign Dirce to the doom prepared for Antiope. The ancient Greeks were familiarised with this myth by a celebrated tragedy of Euripides ; the subordinate work on the base, the mountain-god Cythasron decked with Bacchic ivy, and the Bacchic Cista on the ground, would help to recall all the minor incidents of the story. A doom pronounced by the gods is executed ; the fate Dirce had prepared for another recoils upon herself. But all this, or at least as much as will suffice for a satisfactory understanding of the work of art as such , cannot be gathered from the work itself. In the Orpheus relief we recognise without extraneous aid the separation of two lovers calmly resigned to their fate, their severance by the conductor of souls. An acquaintance with the exquisite legend will merely serve to enhance the thrilling emotions evoked by the sculptured forms. The Bull will excite our abhorrence if the story be not known to us ; while the knowledge itself and such reflections as it would suggest could scarcely reconcile us to the cruelty of the deed, nor help us to endure without something akin to petrifaction these moments of horror. But when our thoughts are sufficiently collected to allow of our realising the event, we are again lost in admiring wonder at the aspiring courage, at the command of all artistical and technical resources possessed by the author of this sculpture which uprears itself with such unfaltering power. The base is adorned with suggestions of landscape and appropriate animal-life more elaborately than was then usual in works of this kind, although analogies are not wholly wanting. But the landscape, the figure of the mountain-god Cythaeron, together with all minor accessories, are far surpassed in interest by the principal figures and their action. The lovely feminine form of Dirce vainly im- ploring the powerful youths whose utmost exertions scarcely suf- fice to restrain the infuriated beast, the vivid reality of the whole scene , the artistic refinement in the execution have scarcely yet been sufficiently admired. We readily concede to one like Welcker, who brought the finest perceptions to bear on the exposition of antique art, 'that it is impossible to attain to the highest excellence in any particular direction without at the same time postponing one or other consideration of value'. That which was esteemed as the highest excellence , the goal which must be reached at the cost of all other considerations, has varied with successive epochs of Greek art. In the present case repose and concentration are sacri- ficed to the overwhelming effect of a momentary scene. Even at a time when restoration could not have interfered with the original design , the impression of a certain confusedness must have been conveyed to the spectator, at least at the first glance. It is emin- ently characteristic of this group 'that it powerfully arrests the attention at a point where an almost wild defiance of rule declares itself. The contrast presented in the scene — the terribly rapid

xxxU ANCIENT ART.

and unceasing movement as the inevitable result of a momentary pause, which the artist with consummate boldness and subtlety has known how to induce and improve, give life and energy to the picture in a wonderful degree'. But "Welcker himself, from whom these words are borrowed , reminds us how this group first arrests attention 'by the uncommon character of its appearance'. The group of the Bull assuredly displays excellences which belonged to the antique of every epoch , especially the intuitive perception that truth in the sphere of art is not identical with an illusory realism. The conception of this group proceeds from a complete apprehension of the subject to be embodied. But this fulness of apprehension is derived from the Tragedy. From the very beginning plastic art and poetry have been as twin streams springing from one source and flowing separately, yet side by side. Often indeed their waters have met and mingled. But it was long e'er the tide of poetry seeking a separate channel helped to feed the sister stream. The scene presented to us by this Farnese group was illustrated by Euripides long before its embodiment by plastic art in his tragedy, where Dirce's death is related by the messenger. The artist found material for his inventiveness at hand, which his fancy, passionately stimulated, presently endowed with plastic form and life at a moment which promised 'an uncommon appearance', a majestic and overpowering effect which should command astonish- ment and admiration. We have already attributed the Farnese group to the Rhodian School in speaking of the origin and development of art. It was the work of two sculptors Apollonius and Tauriscus of Tralles in Asia Minor ; for, according to the Roman author Pliny, the group is identical with one by these artists which was brought to Rome from Rhodes, and in all probability found its way thence to Naples. — The colossal group of a man who bears away the dead body of a boy on his shoulders is usually ascribed to the Rhodian School. It has been described as Hector with the body of Troilus. But the corpse of a beloved brother saved from the battle-field would hardly be seized in such fashion. It would rather appear to be that of a victim borne away in triumph by a ruthless victor.

In Naples we have a number of instructive examples of the two styles which are frequently designated as an antique Renais- sance, the New-Attic School, and the School op Pasitelbs ; of the latter in the bronze figure of Apollo playing the Lyre from Pom- peii, and in the archaic simplicity of the affecting group of Orestes and Electra ; of the former in the Vase of Salpion, or better still in the Aphrodite from Capua, the so-called Psyche, and similar works. The Museo Nazionale at Naples is richer in large Bronzes than any other museum in the world ; and nearly all stages of Greek art may bo traced in this great collection. A very early period is re- presented by the Head of a Youth, remarkable for the soldering on of the hair , which the shrewd collector in his villa at Ilerculaneum

ANCIENT ART. xxxvii

had erected as the fragment of a statue. The so-called Dancing Women from Herculanenm belong to the same cycle as the sculp- tures at Selinunto and Olympia, -where also Phidias had a place, as is proved by the copy of the Parthenos found in Athens. The bearded head, once erroneously named Plato , illustrates the artistic forms of the stage represented by Myron; while later art is illustrated by the statuette of Dionysos, known under the misnomer of Narcissus. The Besting Hercules and the gay Dancing Faun have long been fa- mous. The bead at one time believed to represent Seneca is an admirable portrait of some Alexandrian scholar or poet. In Naples also, abundant opportunity will be found for continuing the study begun in Rome of the heroes of an ideal world, of portraits, sarco- phagus-reliefs, or whatever else may especially engage the attention. The custom of painting marble statues is illustrated for the earlier period in a statue of Artemis, and for the later period in a statuette of Venus. Probably, however, curiosity and interest will be most excited by the appearance of antique paintings from Pompeii and the neighbouring cities of Campania buried at the foot of Vesuvius. The history of Greek Painting presents a problem difficult of solution. Happily we have outlived the superstition that the people amongst whom the Parthenon arose , and who gave birth to a sculptor such as Phidias, should have contributed in painting nothing worthy of record. What we most desire, however, is still wanting. We are not in possession of any work by a master of the art ; but only of the products of a subordinate and mechanical art, and these only from a single and comparatively recent period.

The greatest painter of the older time — and probably one of the greatest artists of all times — was Polygnotus , a native of Thasos. He lived for the most part in Athens, where he was pre- sented with the rights of citizenship, and was, though a contemporary of Phidias, his senior. As Phidias was a favourite of Pericles and employed by him, it would appear that Polygnotus was a protege of Cimon. Pausanias, the Greek author of travels (in the time of Antoninus), had seen two large paintings by Polygnotus covering the wall in Delphi, and has minutely described them. In the one the fall of Troy was represented, in the other scenes from the nether world. In the first the Trojan Cassandra is the centre figure. Ajax has offered violence to her: she sits on the ground, in her hand the image of the insulted Athena ; around her the Greek heroes are sitting in judgment upon Ajax. In the background is the citadel of Troy, the head of the wooden horse reaches above its wall, which Epeios, the builder of the horse, is about to demolish. Right and left of the central group are scenes of destruction ; heaps of the slain, the savage Neoptolemus still persisting in his work of slaughter, captive women, and terrified children ; nor were more inviting scenes wanting. Close to the captive Trojan women yEthra was seen, the liberated slave of Helen, and farther back the tent

xxxviii ANCIENT ART.

of Menelaus is taken down and his ship equipped for departure. On the other side of the picture was recognised the house of An- tcnor, which the Greeks had spared, while he himself and his family make ready to quit their desolated home and depart foi foreign lands. Thus the entire centre of the composition has refer- ence to the crime committed after the conquest, which called aloud for punishment by the gods ; these scenes of death and horror were enclosed at the extremities by more peaceful incidents — the horror of the lower world whose shades envelope renowned heroes and heroines ; Odysseus compelled to descend to the abode of the departed — all this Polygnotus combined in one grand picture, skilfully alternating peace and the torments of hell, prodigious ghastliness and tender grace. Polygnotus had not only embodied in these pictures the mythical matter with which religious rites, epic poem, vulgar tradition and humour, as well as the earlier works of plastic art, could furnish him ; not only had he animated this material with captivating motives strongly appealing to the be- holder's imagination ; but he had, as may still be recognised, while painting, asserted his power as a poet and supplied much that was original in the realm of fancy. The technical means at the disposal of Polygnotus were so limited, so simple and antiquated, that in the Roman times admiration of his pictures was ridiculed as a con- ceit of dilettantism — just as at one time it was customary to scoff at the admirer of Giotto. Nevertheless with these simple means, Polygnotus could express himself with so much clearness, so nobly and sublimely, that Aristotle boasted of him that his forms were more noble and grander than were commonly seen in life, while the painter Pauson presented men worse than they really were, and Dionysius was true to nature. Having regard to these separate qua- lifications he suggested that the youthful eye should receive its im- pressions from Polygnotus and not from Pauson. In later times the beauty of Polygnotus' pictures continued to charm : in the second century A. D. his Cassandra supplied an author of refinement and penetration, like Lucian, with the material for a description of fe- minine beauty.

Wliile the fame of Polygnotus and his contemporaries rested principally on wall-paintings, later critics would maintain that those of his successors who first produced artistic effect in portable pictures were the only true painters. As the first painter in this sense the Athenian Apollodokus may be named. The work which he began was completed by Zeuxis of Heraclea and Pahjrhasius of Ephesus. We still possess a description by Lucian of the Centaur family by Zeuxis. The female Centaur reclines on the grass, the human upper part of the body being raised and supported by the elbow. One of her two infants she holds in her arms giving it nourishment in human fashion ; the other sucks as a foal her teats. The male Centaur looks down from above. He holds in his right

ANCIENT ART. xxxix

hand a lion-cub which lie swings over his shoulder as if jokingly to frighten his young ones. 'The further excellences of the picture,' modestly continues Lucian, though evidently an accomplished connoisseur, 'which to us laymen are but partly revealed, "but nevertheless comprise the whole of art's resources , correct draw- ing, an admirable manipulation and mingling of colour, man- agement of light and shade, a happy choice of dimension, as well as just relative proportion of parts to the whole, and the com- bined movement of the composition — these are qualities to be ex- tolled by one of art's disciples who has mastered the subject in its detail'. This eloquent description by Lucian has been made the sub- ject of a spirited drawing by Genelli. Unfortunately no such record of Parrhasius' works remains. The credit of having first applied symmetry, i.e. probably the systematic regard for the proportion recognised by later leaders in art, to painting, is claimed for Par- rhasius, as well as delicacy and grace in the artistic rendering of the countenance and hair. He is said, too, to have been supreme in the management of contour. But in later times Parrhasius was esteemed simple as a colourist compared with Apelles.

The authors to whom are ascribed most of the notices of painters that we possess, distinguish, different schools. The Helladic School included the painters of Athens and those of the mother- country of Greece along with those of Sicyon. But owing to the pre-eminence achieved for Sicyon by the painter Eupompus, the llelladic school was again subdivided under the title of Sicyonic and Attic or Attic-Theban , after certain artists of these schools. To this, or these schools rather, was opposed the Asiatic (Ionic). Pausias, whose name is known to us by Goethe's exquisite poem, was one of the Sicyonian School, and, so, it appears, was that spirited painter Timanthes, whose best-known work was his Iphigenia. She stood at the altar ready to be sacrificed, surrounded by the heroes of the Grecian camp, in whose persons, according to the character of each and with due regard to appropriateness, was pourtrayed every degree of mental anguish. Agamemnon himself veiled his head. Nicomachus, Aristides, Euphranor, likewise renowned as sculptor and master of heroic representation , and Nicias the friend of Praxiteles belong to the Theban-Attic school. Amongst the pic- tures of Aristides was one of a woman wounded during the siege. She is dying while her infant still clings to her breast. In the ex- pression of the mother's countenance could, it was thought, be read the fear lest her blood should be mingled with the milk the child was sucking. — The most brilliant master of the Ionic school — though he had had the advantage of studying his art in Sicyon — the most renowned indeed of the painters of antiquity, was Apelles, the contemporary of Alexander the Great, and incomparable in his power of expressing grace in all its forms. As yet we are not in pos- session of any distinct clue to the character of his most esteemed

xl ANCIENT ART.

works, of Artemis , with her band of attendant Nymphs clustering around her, hurrying to the chase, nor of Aphrodite rising from the sea. We are more fortunate in the instance of two younger painters, Aetion and Timomachus. Of the nuptials of Alexander by Aetion we have again a masterly description by Lucian, with which all are acquainted who have seen the beautiful Raffaelesque composition in the Palazzo Borghese at Rome. The Medea of Timomachus is to be traced in a series of imitations or reminiscences, on monuments of different kinds, but most remarkably in a mutilated picture from Herculaneum, and again in another perfectly preserved from Pompeii.

The services thus rendered us by the Campanian towns in bringing to light the works of Timomachus encourage us to hope that they may be repeated in the case of other Greek celebrities. It is in fact concluded with a considerable show of probability that in the Pompeian representations of the liberation of Andromeda by Perseus are to be recognised influences of a picture by Nicias. It has frequently been attempted with much pains, and with aid of more or less audacious assumptions and combinations, to contrive copies of these renowned Greek masters, and when after all it has been found that such efforts are for the most part vain and futile, it has been urged in explanation of the failure that our acquain- tance with celebrated cabinet-pictures is too limited. We must, then, however unwillingly, accept the conclusion that anything more than a very qualified belief in Pompeian pictures is impossible. They are invaluable as a clue to many qualities which were com- mon to the painting of antiquity ; invaluable , too , because they assuredly possess , in obedience to the unvarying traditions of an- tique art — which having taken a theme in hand would work it out to the last possible variation — a wealth of imagery and redundance of lineament which connect them more or less closely with the works of the great masters. But it is scarcely to be wondered at that the authenticity of copies from celebrated cabinet-pictures of the best period should be so rarely established, or wear even the appearance of probability; it were a wonder indeed if so much could be accom- plished.

Demosthenes reminds his countrymen in scathing words how in the palmy days of Athens the noblest edifices were erected in honour of the gods, while the dwellings of the most distinguished Athenians were simple andinconspicuous as those of their neighbours. Even at the time these words were spoken a change had come over Greek life. For the stern sublimity of the creations of an earliertime, Art had substituted a milder and more effeminate type of divinity, nor did she now disdain to enter the abodes of men. The splendour which had been reserved for the gods, now found its way into pri- vate dwellings. What at first had been a bold innovation and an exception , presently grew into a universal requirement. From the

ANCIENT ART. xli

epoch of culture inaugurated by Alexander onwards , sculptor and painter alike contributed to the artistical beauty and sumptuous adornment of dwelling-houses. Inventiveness , displayed in the designing and ornamentation of household furniture of every kind, followed as a matter of course , and though in Athens and Hellas expenditure in this way remained moderate, in other great cities, as Alexandria in Egypt and Antioch in Syria , artist and handicrafts- man alike vied with the wealth and luxury of the inhabitants, not only in beautifying the cities externally, but in lavishing upon the dwelling-houses of the rich the utmost attainable splendour. Plans were extended and adapted to the employments and highest enjoy- ment of life ; floors, walls, and ceilings were arranged and decorated in ever new and varying style. Then decoration in stucco and painting was supplemented by mosaic work which enlivened the floors with an effect as charming as that of painting ; nor was it long restricted to the floors. Along with other elements of culture the Roman world had borrowed from the Greek the beautifying of their houses , and as movement is never absolutely suspended, this taste received in Roman times a farther impetus in its original direction. We may safely assume, however, reasoning from analogy, that it departed farther and farther from the purity and harmony of the Greek pattern.

In the picture which Pompeii presents as a whole we see the last trace of that combined art and beauty which with the later Greeks permeated life in every vein and in all its phases : a feeble and faded picture it must remain, however active the fancy may be in investing it with attributes belonging to Hellenic art in the zenith of its splendour. From an earlier period, when the influence of the Greek was more directly felt, we have not received much from Pompeii that is instructive. The general impression is derived from the restorations consequent on the earthquake of the year A.D. 63. The great mass of decoration is the work of the sixteen years intervening between A.D. 63 and the town's final destruction in A.D. 79, and was in the newest fashion then prevailing in Rome, but necessarily on a scale commensurate with the resources of a pro- vincial town. As the Roman senate had ordered the rebuilding of the town, the pay of handicraftsmen would doubtlessly be attractive enough. The houses were made habitable with the utmost de- spatch, and received their decorations with the same haste. It is im- possible but to believe that the greater number of houses were thus completed by a comparatively small number of masters with their staffs of workmen. They had their pattern-books for the decoration of entire rooms and walls, as well as for simple pictures, and they resorted to these pattern-books more or less according to their need or fancy. The favourite motives and forms were so familiar to them that they had them literally at their ringers' ends : with incre- dibly certain and facile hand, and without concerning themselves

xlii ANCIENT ART.

about means or method, they fling their gaud and glitter over the naked walls. And very captivating is this stirring picture-pattern world which moved obedient to their will. Vistas of airy fantastical forms architecturally disposed and decked with wreaths and gar- lands delusively mask the narrow limits of the allotted space; while, by way of completing the illusory effect of this mock archi- tecture, graceful figures move in the midst, or from the open window look in upon the chamber. Arabesques, sprays and borders of foliage and flowers, and garlands gracefully enliven and divide the walls ; while in the midst of the enclosed spaces, from a dark back- ground, figures single or in pairs stand out in dazzling relief, and whether winged or otherwise are always lightly and surely poised. Here and there lovely maidens are seen dancing in mid-air; Eros tinkles on the strings of the lyre which Psyche holds ; Satyrs and Nymphs, Centaurs and Bacchantes, female figures with candelabra, flowers and fruits people this airy realm of fancy. Separate pic- tures at intervals engage the attention. They tell the story of the handsome but unsusceptible Narcissus, of Adonis the favourite of Aphrodite, whose early loss the goddess bewails with Eros, of Phae- dra's shameless passion for Hippolytus ; the loves of Apollo and Daphne, of Ares and Aphrodite, Artemis and Actaeon, Ariadne abandoned by Theseus, the story of Leda, the life and pursuits of Bacchus and his followers, of the god finding the forsaken Ariadne, and of Satyrs pursuing Nymphs. Scenes of terror, too, there are : Dirce bound to the Bull, Medea meditating the murder of her children, the sacrifice of Iphigenia — but even these are rendered with an effect of sensuous beauty so entrancing that they are lost in the gladsome world of exuberant life about them. Mere tragedy, mere convulsive effort, acquired no enduring power over the senses: they are rather beguiled by the remembrance of some captivating legend, some transient impulse, a throb of compassion, which infuse a wholesome element into pictures abounding with expressions of rapturous delight. Where passion exerts itself it is but for the moment — the power of love for good or evil, the beauty of the human form, moments of bliss whether of mortals or the immor- tals — such is the material for an ever-recurring theme. Bits of landscape, houses with trees, rocks, or a grotto on the strand are suggestive of idyllic delights. And around these more conspicuous figures are grouped an accompaniment of small friezes with pic- torial accessories grave and gay, still life, animals and incidents of the chase, pygmies, masks, fresh fruit, and household vessels.

The liveliest impression is made by the best examples of figures separately poised on the walls. Curiosity is most excited by the separate pictures; they are the last remnant of the historical painting of the old world. They cannot, however, enable us to form a just estimate of the works of the greatest ancient masters. If genuine and adequate copies of celebrated cabinet-pictures from

ANCIENT ART. xliii

the best period were to be found amongst Pompeian decorations it would be by an accident altogether exceptional and capricious. The artist-bands who subsequently to the earthquake of A.D. (33 pushed their work so easily and so rapidly had neither these ca- binet-pictures nor the genuine and adequate copies to guide them, but simply the drawings of their pattern-books. + Thoroughly trained as they were mechanically to the work , they turned their sketches to the best possible account, transferred them on the required scale, making additions or omissions as the case might be, varying, modi- fying and curtailing, as necessity, fancy, and the measure of their capacity might prescribe. The enclosed pictures, which in graceful inventiveness and execution often enough surpassed the forms oc- cupying the open spaces, cannot be considered apart from the general decoration with which in manner and method they are identical. They betray moreover in spite of all that is beautiful and admirable about them, symptoms of degeneracy; just as the wall - decorations of Pompeii descending from elegance to the trivialities of mock architecture exhibit a degeneracy which must not, however, be regarded as inherent in the art of which we see here but a feeble reflection. Thus we learn that the way from the great painters of Greece to the wall-pictures of Pompeii is neither short nor straight, but long and too often hard to find. Many of the forms and groups so gracefully poised in the open wall-spaces may in their origin have reached back so far as to the happiest period of Greek art; it is also possible, that, when framed pictures were for the first time painted on the walls of houses in the epoch of Alexander, or at whatever other period this style of decoration came into vogue, celebrated easel-pictures were copied or laid under contribution. The designers of the pattern-books may have betaken themselves to a variety of sources , they may have ap- propriated and combined, as old and new patterns, entire de-

t There have been long-standing differences of opinion ahout the me- chanism of painting practised in Pompeii. A solution of the problem is the result of researches conducted hy the painter O. Donner (in a work published by Prof. Helbig, entitled 'Wall-paintings of the cities of Cam- pania destroyed by Vesuvius', Leipsic, 1868). According to this authority it is certain that the greater number of the pictures as well as wall-decora- tions were painted in fresco , i. e. upon a newly prepared and moistened surface — and only in exceptional cases and as a makeshift upon a dry ground. Conclusive evidence of this is afforded by the presence, to which Donner refers, of so-called Fresco-edges , i. e. of spots where the newly- prep ared surface came in contact with what was already dry. The sur- face intended for the reception of colour was prepared by the painters of antiquity with such care that it retained the moisture much longer than in recent times has been found attainable. They were thus enabled to co ver large wall-spaces without interruption and in this respect had a con- si derable advantage over us moderns. — In 1873 Professor Helbig pub- lished a supplement to his earlier work (Leipsic), and in 1879 a con- tinuation of his list of mural paintings appeared in Italian, under the title 'Le Pilture Murali Cmnpnne scoverte negli anni 1SG7-7S , descritte da Antonio Sogliano\

xliv ANCIENT ART.

corations together with, separate figures and finished pictures. Like the pattern-books for the sarcophagus-reliefs, they must have been full of ideas and motives derived from an earlier and nobler art. And as wall-painting is more akin to high art we may encourage the hope that patient research will often be rewarded by discovering — as hitherto amidst a tanglement of conflicting evidence — not the works themselves of the great masters, but those traces of their workwhich we so eagerly seek. In Pompeii, however, we learn the necessity of caution, for we there find examples of a much earlier style of decoration than the 'Pompeian', or even than the style of the Augustan age.

No one could overlook the solemn dignity of aspect which makes the Casa del Fauno conspicuous amidst the mass of habitations in Pompeii. Here beauty reveals itself in column and capital, cornice and panelling, favourably contrasting with the gaudy frippery of a fantastical mock architecture with its pictorial accompaniments. The wealthy family which occupied this mansion may have rejoiced in the possession of many a costly cabinet -picture. But at the time the house was built it was not yet the custom, or it was not the owner's pleasure to follow the newest fashion. In their place a complete series of the finest mosaics formed a part of the general decoration of the house. These are still partly preserved and to be seen on the spot. Here the celebrated Battle of Alexander was found, a grand composition that irresistibly reminded Goethe of Ra- phael's 'Siege of Constantinople' ; while Karl Justi suggests as a per- haps still more just comparison Velazquez's famous painting of the 'Surrender of Breda'. In fact these three powerful representations of great feats of arms tower, as it were, like three lofty peaks above the long series of lesser martial paintings that the world has seen. They are closely related to each other in their mighty tide of move- ment, in their imposing effect , and above all, in the indissoluble unity, with which the artistic imagination has in each case conceived and depicted the hero of the day plunged in the thick of the fray yet dominating and ruling the surrounding melee. Early Greek art apparently made few attempts to represent masses of warriors in conflict; the battles were generally dissolved into scattered groups of single combatants , and even the leaders were not specially con- spicuous. Perhaps the reverse might have seemed to recall the customs of Asiatic despots, in the minds of the early Greeks.' At the battle of Issus great masses of troops were dashed against each other. Alexander in person pressed hard upon Darius, whose brother Oxathres interposed himself with his cavalry. The noblest of the Persians fell; Darius , menaced by the greatest danger, mounted a horse to secure his flight. This is the moment represented by the mosaic. The horse that is to save the king is conspicuous in the centre. Darius , however , thinks not of his urgent need of rescue but sunk in grief and horror, gazes on the corpses of his followers

ANCIENT ART. xlv

who have protected him with their lives.- Alexander has dashed for- ward with irresistible strength; his helmet has fallen from his head with the violence of his action; and his mighty spear transfixes Oxathres on his falling horse. The forms of Alexander, Oxathres, and Darius are those first seen and comprehended by the spectator; then he becomes aware of the charioteer urging his horses to flight in hopeless despair, and of the noble Persian who has sprung from his horse and holds it ready for his king. It is a scene of breathless suspense and excitement. The excitement is intensified and ac- centuated by the wildly agitated surroundings of men and horses, overthrown or uninjured. The vividly coloured figures stand out in distinctly defined masses from the clear yellowish atmosphere. Land- scape is represented by little more than an isolated withered tree and a rock. The extended battle-scene rolls before the eye of the beholder like some wild hunt. The point of view, as Ottfried Miiller has ob- served, is somewhat low, so that the heads of the figures behind pro- ject but little above those in front ; and as is usually the case with antique reliefs , the mosaic is treated as though the point of view moved in a straight line parallel to the length of the picture. But within these limits , every difficulty is fairly confronted and over- come. The drawing is free, bold, and absolutely sure and the colour- effects are vigorous and harmonious ; facts which must excite our astonishment, when we reflect that the design has had to be labori- ously reproduced in mosaic-work. The mosaic is composed of num- berless cubes, mostly of a small size; a calculation has indeed been made that no fewer than 1,374,516 cubes have been used in the work. The elegant side-scenes refer to Alexander's visit to Egypt; and perhaps the original was designed in that country. At all events, from this mosaic we gain an insight into the method pursued by the great painters in their works. A very different and far grander art declares itself in these mosaics than in the wall-paintings. The other mosaics found in this mansion also rank high in point of beauty as well as in precision and purity of drawing, and owing to the difficulties of reproduction in mosaic consequent on the nature of the material the fact becomes doubly suggestive that in effectual and complete mastery of drawing there is nothing in the whole range of Pompeian pictures to surpass the border of masks, garlands, foliage and fruits of the Casa del Fauno or the mosaics attributed to the artist Dioscorides. But we may well delight in the air of cheerful airy grace pervading these pictorial decorations of Pom- peii , in this precious heritage of Grecian — and in part old Gre- cian — life and beauty which a licentious posterity has scattered over its dazzling walls.

The peculiarities and characteristics of the various styles of Greek Architecture may easily be recognized. In the Doiuo Stile, the columns rise immediately from the floor of the temple, and have no basis; the (lut- ings are separated from each other merely by a sharp edge; the capital

xlvi HISTORY OF NAPLES.

consists of an echinus, widening from below upwards, and a rectangular abacus or block above; the lowest member of the entablature is an un- divided architrave, above which are alternate sunken panels (metopes) and panels with three perpendicular grooves (triglyphs). In the Ionic Sttle, each column has a special basis ; the flutings are separated by very narrow perpendicular faces ; the capital is distinguished by the curved volutes at each side; the architrave is in three parts, and above it is an undivided frieze, frequently adorned with reliefs. In the Corinthian Style the ca- pital is distinguished by its acanthus-leaves ; the architrave resembles that of the Ionic style. The Tuscan or early-Italian column has a capital al- lied to the Doric, though the echinus is smaller; the columns are not fluted and each has a special basis. — The following technical terms may be found useful. Temples in which the walls project at the sides so as to be flush with the columns are called temples in antis; those with co- lumns only in front are called prostyle; those -with columns at both ends, amphiprostyle; those with columns all round, peripteral. Hypcelhral Temples were those with colonnades surrounding an entirely uncovered court. There wen1 no temples with openings in the roof or in the ceiling of the cella.

History of the Kingdom of Naples.

The former kingdom of Naples contained at the end of 1879 10,414,000 inhab. (including Benevento) , and is divided into '23 provinces. In ancient times it embraced the tribes of the Volsci, Strumites, Oscani, Campanians, Apulians, Lucanians, Calabrians, Bruttians, Siculians , and a number of others of less importance, all of whom were characterised by the most marked peculiarities of language , custom , and political constitution. The Oscaii lan- guage , the one most generally spoken , predominated in Samnium, Campania, Lucania , and Bruttium. On the W. and S.W. coast, and especially in Sicily , Greek colonists settled in such numbers that the S. portion of the Italian peninsula received the name of Magna Graecia. After the war against Pyrrhus , king of Epirus, in the 3rd cent, before Christ, the Romans became masters of the land, but the Greek language and customs continued to predominate until an advanced period in the Christian era. That this was the case in the time of the early emperors has been distinctly proved by the character of the antiquities of the excavated Oscan towns of Herculaneum and Pompeii. After the fall of the Western Empire this district was occupied by Ostrogoths and Lombards, then by Romans from the E. Empire , who in their turn were constantly harassed by Arabian bands which attacked them by sea , and who Anally succumbed in the 11th cent, to the Norman settlers. The Hohenstaufen family next held the country from 1194 to 1254. In 12(>f> Charles of Anjou gained possession of Naples and established his dominion, which was secured by the cruel execution in 1268 of Conradin, the lawful heir. His power , however, having been impaired by the Sicilian Vespers, 30th May, 1282, rapidly declined in consequence of the crimes and degeneracy of the royal family

HISTORY OF NAPLES. xlvii

and of disastrous wars with the island of Sicily, then in possession of the Aragonese. Charles VIII. of France, as heir of the Anjou family, undertook a campaign against Naples and gained possession of the kingdom in a few days, but was unable to retain it. His successor Louis XII. allied himself with Ferdinand the Catholic of Spain with a view to conquer Naples , but in consequence of dis- sensions was compelled to abandon his enterprise after the victory of Oonsalvo da Cordova on the Liris. Naples, like Sicily and Sardinia, then yielded to the power of Spain, which maintained her dominion till 1713. Gonsalvo da Cordova was the first of the series of Spanish viceroys, many of' whom, such as Don Pedro de Toledo under Charles V. (1532-54), did much to promote the welfare of the country. The rule of others, especially during the 17th cent., was such as to occasion universal distress and dissatisfaction , a mani- festation of which was the insurrection under Masaniello at Naples in 1647. At the peace of Utrecht in 1713 Philip V. of Spain, of the house of Bourbon , ceded Naples and Sicily to the house of Hapsburg , but after prolonged conflicts they reverted to his son Charles in 1734, under the name of the 'Kingdom of the Two Sici- lies'. Notwithstanding revolutionary disturbances, the Bourbons continued to reign at Naples until the close of the century. In 1806 Napoleon I. created his brother Joseph king of Naples , who was succeeded in 1808 by his brother-in-law Joachim Murat. In June, 1815, King Ferdinand, who with the aid of the English had meanwhile maintained his ground in Sicily, returned to Naples , and in his person the Bourbon dynasty was restored. The following October, Joachim Murat ventured to land at Pizzo in Calabria , but was captured , tried by court-martial , and shot, 15th Oct. 1815. Popular dissatisfaction, however, still continued, and in 1820 a rebellion broke out in Italy and Sicily, but it was speedily quelled by the Austrians under Frimont in 1821 , who occupied the country till 1827. King Ferdinand I. was succeeded in 1825 by his eldest son Francis 1. , and the latter in 1830 by Ferdinand II. , whose reign was characterised by an uninterrupted succession of internal struggles, partly in Naples and partly in Si- cily , especially after the year 1848. In the spring of 1859, when the war between Sardinia and Austria broke out in N. Italy, which by the peace of Villafranca would have entirely changed the inter- nal condition of Italy, Ferdinand II. died, and his son Francis II. (married to the Princess Mary of Bavaria) was compelled to yield to the storm which burst forth afresh. In May , 1860, Garibaldi began his victorious march through Sicily and Calabria, which ended at Naples in August. In the meantime the Piedmontese troops, at the instigation of Cavour, had also entered the kingdom of Naples. On 1st Oct. Francis II. was defeated at a skirmish on the "Volturno. On 7th Oct. King Victor Emmanuel and Garibaldi entered Naples side by side amid the greatest popular enthusiasm.

xlviii HISTORY OF NAPLES.

Francis was then besieged at Gaeta from 4th Nov., 1860, to 13th Feb., 1861, and at length compelled to surrender and retire to Rome.

In a land , whose history , like its volcanic soil, has been dis- turbed by a long succession of internal struggles , and where so many and so different nations have ruled, repose and the develop- ment of civilisation must necessarily be difficult of attainment. The present government has adopted a wise course in endeavouring to raise the standard of national education , in energetically sup- pressing the brigandage in the provinces , and the 'Camorra' and gangs of thieves in the city , and in introducing a number of re- forms well adapted to improve the condition of the nation.

Dates. The following are the most important dates in the history of the Kingdom of Naples (comp. pp. 237-2391.

I. Period. The Normans, 1042-1194: 1042, William, son of Tancred of Hauteville , Comes Apuliae. — 1059, Robert Guiscard (i. e. 'the Cunning'), Dux Apulia et Calabriae. — 1130, Roger, proclaimed king after the conquest of Naples and Amalfi, unites the whole of Lower Italy and Sicily. — 1154-66, William I. ('the Bad'). — 1166-89, William II. ('the Good'). — 1194, William III.

II. Period. The Hohenstaufen, 1194-1268: 1194, Henry VI. of Germany, I. of Naples. — 1197, Frederick II. — 1250, Conrad.

— 1254, Manfred. — 1268, Conradin.

III. Period. House of Anjou, 1265-1442 : 1265, Charles I. of Anjou. From 1282 to 1442 Sicily formed an independent king- dom under the house of Aragon. — 1285, Charles II., 'the Lame'.

— 1309, Robert 'the Wise'. — 1343, Johanna I. (married Andreas of Hungary). — 1381, Charles III. of Durazzo. — 1386, Ladislaus.

— 1414, Johanna II. — 1435, Renato of Anjou, banished by Al- phonso 'the Generous'.

IV. Period. House of Aragon, 1442-1496 : 1442, Alphonso 1., 'the Generous'. After his death Sicily and Naples were again separated. — 1458, Ferdinand I. — 1494, Alphonso II. — 1495, Ferdinand II. — 1496, Frederick banished (d. 1554 at Tours, the last of the House of Aragon).

V. Period. Spanish Viceroys, 1503-1707. — On 7th July, 1707, during the Spanish War of Succession, Count Daun marched into Naples and established the Austrian supremacy.

VI. Period. Austrian Viceroys, 1707-1734. — Charles III. of Bourbon, crowned at Palermo 1734, recognised by the Peace of Vienna 1738, defeats the Austrians at Velletri 1744, finally re- cognised by the Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle 1748. In 1758 Charles was proclaimed king of Spain , and resigned the crown of Naples and Sicily in favour of his son.

VII. Period. The Bourbons, 1734-1860: 1734, Charles III. — 1759, Ferdinand IV. (regency during his minority till 1767), mar- ried Caroline of Austria, sister of Joseph II., but a monarch of

HISTORY OF NAPLES. xlix

very different character from the latter. — 23rd Jan. 1799, the Repubblica Parthenopea proclaimed by General Championnet. — 14th June, 1799, the French banished. Reaction of Cardinal Ruffo.

— 14th Jan., 1806, Joseph Buonaparte established by Massena. — 15th July, 1808, Joachim Murat, king of Naples. — 1816, Ferdi- nand assumes the title of Ferdinand I. of the Two Sicilies. — 1825, Francis I. —1830, Ferdinand II. — 1859, Francis II. —21st Oct. 1860, the Kingdom of Naples annexed to Italy by plebiscite.

VIII. Period. House of Savoy. Victor Emmanuel II. (d. 1878).

— Since 1878, Humbert I.

Art. In art, as in literature , the attainments of the natives of S. Italy have been insignificant. The Norman Period, however, under Arabian influence , produced both on the mainland and in Sicily (p. 244) works of architecture and sculpture which at least hold their own when compared with the contemporaneous monu- ments of Central Italy. These, however, are not found in the metro- polis, but at the seats of the princes and bishops, as Bari, Trani, Amalft, Bavello, and Salerno. The art of decoration, as applied in mosaic flooring , pulpits , and choir-screens , was in particular brought to great perfection. The brazen doors , at first imported from Constantinople, were afterwards made in the country itself; thus those at Canosa were executed by a master of Amalfi, and those at Bavello and Trani are the work of a native of the place last named. The arts of mosaic composition and mural painting were sedulously cultivated in S. Italy during the whole of the early middle ages , a fact mainly due to the constant intercourse maintained with Byzantium. — In the Period op Giotto, during which great advances in painting were made throughout the rest of the peninsula, S. Italy remained nearly inactive , content to depend on foreign artists for the supply of her artistic wants. Thus Arnolfo di Cambio , the famous Florentine architect, also practised his profession in the South; and Pietro Cavallini, the most celebrated Roman painter at the beginning of the 14th cent., Giotto himself (in S. Chiara) , and probably Simone Martini of Siena, all left memorials of their skill in S. Italy. — During the Fifteenth Century the realism of the Flemish school of the Van Eycks produced a marked effect on Neapolitan art. The most important works of this period are the frescoes, unfor- tunately in poor preservation , in the cloisters of S. Severino at Naples. They are associated with the name of Antonio Solario, llo Zingaro', an artist of whose life and work we possess most im- perfect and in part misleading accounts. To judge from these paintings he was related in style to the Umbro-Florentine school. Piero and Ippolito Donzello and Simone Papa are said to have been pupils of Lo Zingaro, but Piero Donzello at any rate learned his art at Florence.

Baedeker. Italy III. 11th Edition. d

1 HISTORY OF NAPLES.

In the Sixteenth Century Raphael's influence extended even to Naples, as is apparent from the works, among others, of Andrea Sabbatini of Salerno, known as Andrea da Salerno, who flourished in 1480-1545. This artist studied under Raphael at Rome, and, like Polidoro da Caravaggio (1495-1543), was one of the foun- ders of the Neapolitan school of the 17th century. — In the Sev- enteenth Century the Neapolitan school is characterised by its 'naturalistic' style. Among the most prominent masters were the Spaniard Giuseppe Ribera, surnamed lo Spagnoletto (1588-1656), a follower of Caravaggio; the Greek Belisario Corenzio (1558- 1643), a pupil of the last; Giambattista Caracciolo (d. 1641), and his able pupil Massimo Stanzioni (1585-1656). The school of Spagnoletto also produced Aniello Falcone (1600-65), the painter of battle-scenes, and the talented landscape-painter Salvator Rosa (1615-1673). In 1629 Domenichino came from Rome to Naples, to decorate the Cappella del Tesoro for the Archbishop , but seems to have exercised no influence upon Neapolitan art. He fled to Frascati in 1635, to escape the plots laid for him by Ribera, but returned to Naples the following year and died there in 1641. In Luca Giordano (1632-1705), surnamed Fa Presto from his rapid- ity of execution, who also worked at Rome, Bologna, Parma, and Venice , Neapolitan painting reached a still lower level. — The history of Neapolitan art is as yet imperfectly investigated, but there seems little reason to doubt that farther research will serve to confirm the conclusion that Naples has never been able to dispense with the assistance of foreign artists.

1 . From Rome to Naples by Railway,

Two main roads lead from Rome to Naples : one along the coast by Terracina (R. 2), the ancient Via Appia ; the other through the valley of the Sacco and Garigliano, the Via Latina; both uniting near Capua. The Railway, following the latter route (154!/2 M. in length), is now the most important means of communication between Central and Southern Italy. Duration of journey 5l/4-ll hrs.; fares by the fast trains, 31 fr., 21 fr. 70 c. ; by the ordinary trains, 28 fr. 15, 19 fr. 70, 12 fr. 70 c. — Comp. p. xvi. The finest views are generally to the left. — For a more detailed description of the stations between Rome and Segni, see Baedeker's Central Italy.

Soon after leaving the city, the train diverges from the Civita Vecchia line. The Sabine and Alban mountains rise on the left. 9 M. Ciampino is the junction of the lines to Frascati and to Velletri- Terracina (p. 11). The Naples line turns to the E. and passes be- tween the Alban mountains, on the riglit, and the Sabine moun- tains, on the left. 16 M. Monte Compatri, situated to the right, on the slope of the Alban Mts. 21 1/2 M- Zagarolo; 22l/2 M. Palestrina, both to the left, on the slope of the Sabine Mts. 26Y2 M. Labico. — 281/2 M. Valmontone, a small town on an isolated volcanic emi- nence, possessing a handsome chateau of the Doria Pamphili. The train now enters the valley of the Sacco, the ancient Trerus or To- lerus, and skirts its left bank, running parallel with the ancient Via Latina. To the right Monte Fortino, picturesquely situated on the hillside.

33 M. Segni, the junction of a line to Velletri (p. 11), -which is now used by local trains only. The old town of Segni (Locanda di Ulisse Colagiacomo) , a very ancient place, the Signia of the Ro- mans, said to have been colonised by Tarquinius Priscus and still possessing huge remnants of the ancient walls and gateways , is situated on a hill to the right, about 5!/2 M. from, the railway. See Baedeker s Central Italy.

39 M. Anagni (*Locanda Oallo), once a flourishing town, and in the middle ages frequently a papal residence, lies on the heights to the left, 5M. from the station (omnibus 1 fr.). Pope Innocent III., Count of Segni, was born here in 1161 (d. 1216). At Anagni on 7th Sept. 1303, Pope Boniface VIII., then considerably ad- vanced in years , was taken prisoner by the French chancellor Guillaume de Nogaret, acting in concert with the Colonnas, by order of King Philippe le Bel, but was set at liberty by the people three days afterwards. The Cattedrale di S. Maria, a well- preserved edifice of the 11th cent. , and pure in style, is adorned with a mosaic pavement by the master Cosmas , and in the crypt with ancient frescoes. The treasury contains ancient papal vest- ments, etc. The ancient town-wall, which probably dates from the

Baedeker. Italy III. 11th Edition. 1

2 Route 1. ALATRI. From Rome

Roman period, is well preserved, particularly on the N. side. Remains from the middle ages are abundant.

The next towns, with the imposing ruins of their ancient polygonal walls, are also situated on the hills at a considerable distance from the line. This is the territory of the Hernici, with the towns of Anagnia, Aletrium, Ferentinum, and Verulae, which allied themselves with Rome and Latium in B.C. 486, but were subjugated by the Romans, after an insurrection, in B.C. 306. The environs of these towns are picturesque.

42 M. Sgurgola (from which Anagni may also be reached : 33/4M.) is a village on the hill to the right, above the Sacco ; still higher is Carpineto. — 45'/2 M. Morolo.

48y2 M. Ferentino. The town (poor Locanda), situated on the hill (1450 ft.) to the left, 3 M. from the line, the ancient Ferenti- num, a town of the Hernici, was destroyed in the 2nd Punic War, and afterwards became a Roman colony (pop. 11,000). The ancient town-wall, constructed partly of enormous rectangular blocks and partly in the polygonal style, is still traceable throughout nearly its whole circuit; a gateway on the W. side especially deserves notice. The castle, the walls of which now form the foundation of the episcopal palace, occupies the highest ground within the town. The Cathedral is paved with remains of ancient marbles and mosaics. The font in the small church of 8. Giovanni Evangelista is ancient. Interesting antiquities and inscriptions will also be observed in other parts of the town.

A diligence (lfr.) plies several times daily from the station to(9VzM.) the town of Alatri (Locanda Centrale, clean) the ancient Aletrium, picturesquely situated on an eminence to the N., and presenting an admirably preserved specimen of the fortifications of an ancient city. The town with its gates occupies the exact site of the old town. The "Walls of the castle, constructed of huge polygonal blocks, are still entire ; the gateway attracts special attention on account of the stupendous dimensions of the stones of which it is composed. The town and castle were provided with an aqueduct — At a distance of 3 M. is the famous Grolta di Colle- pardo , extending upwards of 2000 ft. into the limestone rock, with beautiful stalactites. About 3/4 -^- farther is observed an extensive depres- sion in the soil, called II Pozzo d"Antullo , several hundred yards in cir- cumference and 200 ft. in depth, overgrown with grass and underwood.

On a hill , about 5 M. to the S. E. of Alatri , is situated Veroli , the ancient Verulae, from which a pleasant road leads to Isola (p. 188; carriage from Alatri to Isola 10-12 fr.).

53i/2M- Frosinone. The town (Locandade Matteis ; pop. 11,000), situated on the hill, 2 M. to the N.E. of the railway, is identical with the ancient Hernician Frusino, which was conquered by the Romans in B.C. 304. The relics of walls and other antiquities are scanty, but the situation is very beautiful.

57 M. Ceccano. The village is most picturesquely situated on the hillside , on the right bank of the Sacco, the valley of which now contracts. At the foot of the hill, to the left of the river, once lay the ancient Fabrateria Vetus, numerous inscriptions from which are built into th» walls of the church by the bridge. A

to Naples. AQUINO. 1 . Route. 3

road leads from Ceccano over the hills to Piperno and Terracina (P- 13).

62y2 M. Pofi. — 69 M. Ceprano {Rail. Restaurant, the last of any size before Naples). Outside the station a pleasing glimpse is obtained of the valleys of the Liris and the Tolerus. The town of Ce- prano is 2^2 M. from the station. — The train now crosses the Liris, which descends from the N., forming the old boundary of the States of the Church. — 70 M. Isoletta.

In the vicinity, on the right bank of the Liris, in the direction of S. Giovanni in Carico, are the scanty ruins of the ancient Fregellae, a Roman colony founded in B. C. 328, and a point of great military im- portance, as it commanded the passage of the river. It was destroyed by the Romans in B. C. 125, in consequence of an insurrection, and Fabra- teria Nova was founded in its stead. A number of antiquities may be seen in the Qiardino Cairo, at the village of S. Giovanni in Carico, 3 M. from the station.

The train now traverses the broad and fertile valley of the Liris, or Garigliano, as it is called after its union with the Sacco. 75 M. Roccasecca ; branch - line to Sora, which is to be carried on to Avezzano (see R. 14).

78 M. Aquino, the ancient Aquinum , a small town pictur- esquely situated to the left on the hill and on a mountain-stream, is celebrated as the birthplace of the satirist Juvenal (under Nero) and of the philosopher Thomas Aquinas. The illustrious 'doctor angelicus', son of Count Landulf, was born in 1224 in the neigh- bouring castle of Rocca Secca, and was educated in the monastery of Monte Cassino (p. 5). The Emperor Pescennius Niger was also a native of Aquinum. By the side of the Via Latina may be distin- guished the relics of the ancient Roman town : inconsiderable frag- ments of walls, a gateway (Porta S. Lorenzo), a theatre, remains of temples of Ceres (8. Pietro) and Diana (8. Maria Maddalena), and a triumphal arch. Near the stream are the ruins of 8. Maria Libera, a basilica of the 11th cent., commonly called II Vescovado, occupying the site of an ancient temple , and consisting of handsome nave and aisles. Above the portal is a well-preserved Madonna in mosaic.

Beyond Aquino, on a bleak mountain to the left, the cele- brated monastery of Monte Cassino (p. 5) becomes visible.

851/2 SI. Cassino. — Inns, outside the town: Alb. Pompei, tysM. from the station, prettily situated, R., L., & A. 3, pens, from 5'/2 fr. ; Alb. Cas- sino ; Alb. Varkone, on the site of the villa of M. Terentius Varro (p. 5), well spoken of.

Carriages. From the station to the town: run posto', i.e. a seat in a carriage, 50 c, at night 1 fr. ; Carrozzella, i.e. a small vehicle with one horse, lb c. or I1/2 fr. ; 'Carrozza', I1/2 or 3 fr. — From the station to the top of Monte Cassino: by day, carrozzella, 1 pers. 3 fr., 2 pers. 4 fr. ; car- rozza, 1 pers. 5, 2-3 pers. 6, 4-5 pers. 7 fr. ; at night, one or more pers. 10 fr. These fares include the return. For waiting at the top, iy2 fr. is charged for a carrczzella up to 3 hrs., 2 fr. for a carrozza. — Donkey to Monte Cassino 1 fr., with guide and light luggage, l'/2 fr.

A Visit to Monte Cassino requires about 5 hours. (Luggage may be left at the station in exchange for a receipt.) The excursion should be so arranged that the traveller may return to the town a considerable time

1*

4 Route 1 .

CASSINO.

From Rome

before sunset ; at the same time it must be borne in mind that visitors are strictly excluded from 12 to 3.30 p.m. The monastery affords good quarters for the night, although the fare is sometimes of a frugal description. No payment is demanded, but the traveller should give about as much as he would have paid at a hotel. Ladies are of course admitted to the church only. Travellers who wish to spend the night or dine here should apply immediately on arriving to the padre forestieraio. Letters of introduction will be found very useful. At an early hour on Sundays and holidays the church and courts of the monastery are crowded with country -people from the neighbouring mountain districts, whose characteristic physiognomies and costumes will be scanned with interest by the traveller.

Cassino, formerly called San Germano, a town with 13,500 inhab. , is picturesquely situated in the plain at the foot of the Monte Cassino, on the small river Rapido (Lat. Vinius), 3/4M. from

the station, and is commanded by a ruined castle, called La Rocca. It occupies nearly the same site as the ancient Casinum, which was colonised by the Romans in B. C. 312, and was afterwards a flourish- ing provincial town. On its ruins sprang up San Germano during the middle ages. Pillars of great antiquity are still to be seen in the churches. Various courts have been held here by popes and em- perors, and in 1230 peace was concluded here between Gregory IX. and Frederick II. The foggy character of the climate is alluded to by the ancients.

The town presents few objects of interest. Following the Ro- man road to the S. for i/2 M., we see, on the right, the colossal re- mains of an * Amphitheatre, which, according to an inscription pre- served at Monte Cassino , was erected by Ummidia Quadratilla at her own expense. The foundress is mentioned by Pliny in his letters

to Naples. MONTE CASSINO. 1. Route. 5

(vii. 24) as a lady of great wealth, who even in her old age was an ardent admirer of theatrical performances. Farther on, and a little higher up, stands a square monument built of large blocks of tra- vertine, with four niches, and surmounted by a dome, now convert- ed into the church *Del Crocefisso (custodian 3-i soldi). Opposite, on the bank of the Rapido, lay the villa of M. Terentius Varro, where, as we are informed by Cicero (Phil. ii. 40), M. Antony afterwards indulged in his wild orgies. — The path leading back to the town from the Crocefisso is probably the ancient Via Latina, and traces of ancient pavement are occasionally observed. From this path, by keeping to the high ground to the left, we may proceed to Monte Cassino without returning to the town.

The monastery of *Monte Cassino, situated on a lofty hill to the W. of the town, is reached in ll/-2 hr. The road affords ex- quisite views of the valley of the Garigliano and the surrounding mountains. The monastery was founded by St. Benedict in 529, on the site of an ancient temple of Apollo, to which Dante alludes (Parad. xxii. 37), and from its magnificent situation alone would be entitled to a visit. The monastery, which has been declared to be a 'National Monument', and which continues its existence in the form of an educational establishment, has ever been conspicuous for the admirable manner in which its inmates have discharged their higher duties. They are the intelligent keepers of one of the most precious libraries in the world, and they educate about eighty stu- dents of theology. The monks at present number about thirty, and there are ten lay brethren, twenty pupils of the upper classes, and numerous servants. The institution also comprises a telegraph-office and a printing-office. The revenues once amounted to 100,000 du- cats per annum, but are now reduced to about 20,000. The exten- sive edifice resembles a castle rather than a monastery.

The present entrance was constructed in 1881, to the right of the low passage through the rock which was formerly used; near the latter St. Benedict is said to have had his cell, which has lately been restored and decorated with frescoes. Several Coukts are connected by arcades. The first one has a fountain of very good water, adorned with statues of St. Benedict and his sister St. Scholastica. On a square space higher up, enclosed by columns from the ancient temple of Apollo , stands the Church, erected in 1727 to replace the ancient edifice founded by St. Benedict. The fortunes of the abbey are recorded in Latin above the entrance of the hall. The principal door of the church is of bronze and is inscribed with a list, inlaid in silver, of all the possessions of the abbey in 1066. It was executed at Constantinople by order of the Abbot Desiderius, afterwards (1086) Pope Victor III. The interior is richly de- corated with marble, mosaics, and paintings. On each side of the high- altar is a mausoleum; one to the memory of Piero de' Medici (p. 18), who was drowned in the Garigliano in 1503, executed by Francesco Sangallo by order of Clement VII. ; the other that of Guidone Fieramosca, last Prince of Mignano. Beneath the high-altar, with its rich marble decorations, re- pose the remains of St. Benedict and his sister St. Scholastica. The sub- terranean chapel contains paintings by Marco da Siena and Mazzaroppi. The choir-stalls are adorned with admirable carving (by Coliccio, 1696), and the chapels adjoining the altar with costly mosaics. Above the doors and on the ceiling are frescoes by Luca Giordano (1677), representing the

6 Route 1 . MONTE OASSINO. From Rome

miracles of St. Benedict and the foundation of the church. The organ is one of the finest in Italy. In the refectory is a 'Miracle of the Loaves', by Sassano.

At a very early period the Library was celebrated for the MSS. executed by the monks. To the Abbot Desiderius of the 11th cent, we are probably indebted for the preservation of Varro, and perhaps of other authors. The handsome saloon at present contains a collection of about 10,000 vols., among which are numerous rare editions published during the infancy of the printer's art. The MSS. and documents are preserved m the archives, in the passage leading to which a number of inscriptions are built into the wall, most of them rescued from the ruins of the ancient Casinum. Among the MSS. are : the commentary of Origen on the Epistle to the Romans, translated by Rufus, dating from the 6th cent. ; a Dante with mar- ginal notes, of the 14th cent, (the archives contain an interesting portrait of the poet) ; the vision of the monk Alberic, which is said to have sug- gested the first idea on which Dante founded his work; various classical authors, the original MSS. of Leo of Ostia and Riccardo di San Germano. The "Archives comprise a still rarer collection, consisting of about 800 documents of emperors, kings, dukes, etc., and the complete series of papal bulls which relate to Monte Cassino, beginning with the 11th cent., many of them with admirable seals and impressions. Among the letters are those exchanged by Don Erasmo Gattola, the historian of the abbey, with learned contemporaries. At the end of an Italian translation of Boccaccio's 'De Claris Mulieribus' is a letter of Sultan Mohammed II. to Pope Nicholas IV., complaining of the pontiff's preparations for war and promising to be converted as soon as he should visit Rome, together with an unfavourable answer from the pope. An ancient bath-seat in rosso antico, found on the bank of the Liris, is also preserved here. The tower in which St. Benedict is said to have lived contains pictures by Novelli, Spagnoletto, and others.

The monastery commands a magnificent 'Prospect in all directions, which the visitor should not omit to enjoy from the different points of view. To the W. and S. extends the broad valley of the Garigliano with its numerous villages , separated from the Gulf of Gaeta by a range of hills, and the sea is occasionally distinguishable. To the E. is the valley of S. Germano, commanded by the rocky summits of the Abruzzi. To the N. a wild mountainous district.

Close to the Monte Cassino rises the Monte Cairo (5480 ft.), which may be ascended in 3-4 hrs.; the view from the summit is considered one of the finest in Italy.

Continuation of Journey to Naples. To the left, beyond S. Germano, we perceive the villages of Cervaro, S. Vittore, and 8. Pietro in Fine. 92 M. Rocca d'Evandro. The train quits the valley of the Garigliano, and enters a richly cultivated defile, beyond which the country towards the right becomes flatter. 96 M. Mig- nano. The train now runs through a barren, undulating tract. 101 M. Presenzano, which lies on the slope to the left.

105'/2 M. Caianello-Vairano, whence a high-road leads via Sol- mona (R. 13) to Pescara on the Gulf of Venice, and to Aquila and Terni. A railway has been opened as far as Rocca Ravindola (p. 186).

110 M. Riardo ; the village, with an old castle, lies on the left.

113 M. Teano; the town (Locanda dell' Italia; 5000 inhab.) lies at some distance to the right, at the base of the lofty Rocca Monfina, an extinct volcano (3420 ft.), which may be visited from this point. The extensive, but dilapidated old castle was erected in the 15th cent, by the dukes of Sessa. Ancient columns in the cathedral, inscriptions, remains of a theatre, and other antiquities

to Naples. CAPUA. 1. Route. 7

are now the sole vestiges of the venerable Teanurn Sidicinum, once the capital of the Sidicini, which was conquered by the Samnites in the 4th cent. B.C., afterwards subjugated by the Romans, and in Strabo's time the most flourishing inland city of Campania after Capua.

118 M. Sparanise, the junction of the line to Gaeta (p. 17).

To the left, about 4 M. to the N. E. of the railway, lies Calvi, the ancient Gales, a Roman colony founded B. C. 332, the wine of which (vinum Calenum) is praised by Horace. It now consists of a few houses only, but contains an ancient amphitheatre, a theatre, and other anti- quities. Carriage with one horse from Capua, and back, 2-3 fr.

As the train proceeds we obtain for the first time a view of Mt. Vesuvius in the distance to the right, and then of the island of Ischia in the same direction. 121 ^ M. Pignataro. The train here intersects the plain of the Volturno, a river 94 M. in length, the longest in Lower Italy. "We now enter upon the vast plains of the ancient Campania (now Terra di Lavoro), one of the most luxuriant districts in Europe , which is capable of yielding , in addition to the produce of the dense plantations of fruit-trees and vines, two crops of grain and one of hay in the same season.

127 M. Capua. — Albekgo & Teattoeia del Centeo, in the Piazza de* Giudici. — Carriage from the station to the town with one horse (cittadina) 30, with two horses (carrozza) 50 c; per hour, 1 or 2 fr. ; to Caserta, 2 or 4 fr. ; to Aversa 3 or 6 fr. ; to S. Maria di Capua Vetere 1 or 2 fr.; to 8. Angelo in Formis 1 fr. 20 or 2 fr. 50 c.

Capua, a fortified town with 14,000 inhab., the residence of an archbishop, lies on the left bank of the Volturno, by which the greater part of it is surrounded. It was erected in the 9th cent., after the destruction of the ancient Capua, on the site of Casi- linum, a town which was conquered by Hannibal after an. obstinate resistance, and fell to decay in the time of the emperors.

Turning to the right on entering the town, and taking the first street to the left, we reach the Piazza de' Giudici, or market-place, in 6 min., and then enter the Via del Duomo to the right.

The Cathedral, dating from the 11th cent., possesses a hand- some entrance-court with ancient columns, but in other respects has been entirely modernised.

Inteeiob. 3rd Chapel on the left: Madonna della Rosa of the 13th century. 3rd Chapel on the right: Madonna with two saints by Silvestro de' Buoni. The Ceypt, dating from the Romanesque period, but now mod- ernised, contains Mosaics from an old pulpit, a Roman Sarcophagus with a representation of the Hunt of Meleager, and a Holy Sepulchre by Ber- nini, being one of his best works.

The Via del Duomo, passing through an archway, leads to the Corso Museo Campano. (Proceeding thence in a straight direction, we may reach the ramparts, which command a pleasing view of the Volturno.) In this street, on the right, is situated the Museo Campano, which is entered from the first side-street on the right. It is open daily, 9-3 o' clock, except on Sundays and festivals.

The Cooet contains reliefs from the amphitheatre of Capua (see p. 8) ;

8 Route 1. S. MARIA DI CAPUA VETERE. From Rome

inscriptions ; ancient sarcophagi , including one of the period of Con stantine; mediaeval tomb-monuments ; a sitting statue of Frederick II. (sadly mutilated and without its head), which formerly surmounted the gateway of the tete-de-pont constructed by him on the right bank of the Volturno about 1240, and destroyed in 1557 ; heads of statues of Petrus de Vineis (?) and Thaddseus of Suessa (?), and a colossal head of Capua Imperiale' (casts at theMuseo Nazionale in Naples), also from Frederick Il.'g tete-de-pont. The rooms in the Interior contain ancient terracottas, vases, coins, a few pictures of little value, and a small library.

The bridge across the Volturno, restored in 1756, is adorned with a statue of St. Nepomuc. Beyond it is an inscription in memory of the Emperor Frederick II. The Torre Mignana within, and the Cappella de' Morti without the town commemorate the sanguinary attack made on Capua by Csesar Borgia in 1501, on which occasion 5000 lives were sacrificed.

On our left after the train has crossed the Volturno, lies the battle-field on which King Francis II. was defeated by the Gari- baldians and Piedmontese on 1st Oct., 1860.

130 M. S. Maria di Capua Vetere {hoc. Roma; Trattoria Ver- mont di Torino, Via AlessandroMilbitz,leadingto the Amphitheatre) is a prosperous town, on the site of the ancient Capua, containing

considerable ruins.

Capua, founded by the Etruscans and afterwards occupied by Samnite tribes, entered into alliance with the Romans B.C. 343, for the sake of protec- tion against the attacks of theSamnites of the mountains. Owing to the luxur- iant fertility of the district, the power and wealth of the city developed them- selves at an early period. It was the largest city in Italy after Rome, but soon became noted for its effeminacy and degeneracy. In the 2nd Punic War, after the battle of Cannae (B. C. 216), it entered into an alliance with Hannibal, who took up his winter-quarters here. That his soldiers became so enervated by their residence at Capua as no longer to be amatch for the Romans, is doubtless a mere hypothesis. Certain, however, it is, that the Romans soon obtained the su- periority, and after along siege reduced the town, B. C. 211. Its punishment was a severe one, and the inhabitants were entirely deprived of all civic pri- vileges. It was rescued from its abject condition by Csesar, and under his suc- cessors regained its ancient splendour. It continued to prosper until the wars of the Goths, Vandals, and Lombards. In the 8th cent, it was destroyed by the Saracens, and the inhabitants emigrated to the modern Capua (p. 7).

Proceeding straight from the station, taking the first street to the left, and following the Via Alessandro Milbitz in nearly the same direction to its farther end (5 min.), we turn to the left into the Via Anflteatro which leads in a curve round the town to (10 min.) the ancient amphitheatre. Before reaching it, we cross an open space where we observe on the left the ruins of a Roman Triumphal Arch, now a gate, through which the Capua road passes.

The *Amphithbatre of Capua (adm. 1 fr. for each pers.), which is said to be one of the largest and most ancient in Italy, is con- structed of travertine. The longer diameter is 185 yds., the shorter 152 yds. in length. The arena measures 83 yds. by 49 yds.

Three of its passages are tolerably well preserved, but of the 80 en- trance-arches two only. The keystones are decorated with images of gods. The Arena, with its substructures, passages, and dens for the wild beasts (to which a staircase descends from the passage to the left), is, like that

to Naples. CASERTA. 1. Route. 9

of Pozzuoli, better defined than the arena of tlie Colosseum at Koine. The Passages contain remains of ancient decorations , fragments of columns, bas-reliefs, etc. To the right, near the entrance, the visitor may ascend to the upper part of the structure, in order to obtain a survey of the ruins themselves, and of the extensive surrounding plain. Large schools were once maintained at Capua for the training of gladiators, and it was here in B.C. 83, that the dangerous War of the Gladiators under Sparlacus the Thracian broke out, which was with difficulty quelled by Crassus two years later.

Above Capua rises Mons Tifata, once the site of a temple of Jupiter, now crowned by a chapel of S. Nicola. At its base, about hi fa M. from S. Maria, stands the old church of S. Angelo in Formis, with frescoes of the 11th cent, (valuable in the history of art), occupying the site of a cel- ebrated temple of Diana, around which a village had established itself.

The high-road from Capua to Maddaloni (p. 10) via S. Maria and Caserta presents a scene of brisk traffic. The road from S. Maria to Caserta (a drive of 8/4 hr.) passes two handsome Roman tombs.

134 M. Caserta. — Hotels. Vittoeia, with garden; Villa Reale, well spoken of; both in the Via Vittoria; Villa di Fieenze, near the palace, R., L., & A. 272, pens. 8 fr. ; all with trattorie. — In the round piazza with its colonnades, at the entrance to the town from the palace, is a favourite Cafe".

Carriage with one horse, per drive within the town or to the station. 35 c, with two horses 60 c. ; drive in the royal gardens ('le Reali Delizie'), per hr. with one horse, 1 fr. 30 c, with two horses, 2'/z fr., each additional 1/2 hr. 50 or 85 c. ; to S. Maria di Capua Vetere 1 fr. 40 or 2 fr. 30, to Capua 2 fr. 25 or 3 fr. «0 c.

For a Visit to the Palace (interior only 12-4; the garden till sunset) a permesso from the royal intendant at the Palazzo Reale at Naples (p. 35) is required, but it may if necessary be obtained through one of the hotel- keepers at Caserta. Fee 1 fr.; for the chapel 25 c.

Caserta, a clean and well-built town with 19,000 inhab. ('com- mune' 30,600) and a large garrison, may be called the Versailles of Naples. It possesses several palaces and barracks, and is the residence of the prefect of the province of Caserta. It was founded in the 8th cent, by the Lombards on the slope of the hill, but the modern town stands on lower ground.

The *Royal Palace of Caserta, opposite the station, was erected in 1752, by Vanvitelli, by order of King Charles III., in the richest Italian palatial style. It forms a rectangle. The S. side is 830 ft. long and 134 ft. high, with thirty-seven windows in each story. The courts of the palace are traversed by a colonnade, from the centre of which ascends the handsome marble staircase, with 116 steps. The marble statue of Vanvitelli , by Buccini , was erected in 1879. The palace is at present unoccupied.

The Chapel, lavishly decorated with marble, imitated lapis lazuli, and gold, contains a 'Presentation in the Temple' by Mengs, five paintings by Conca, and an altarpiece by Bonito. — The Theatee is adorned with twelve Corinthian columns of African marble from the temple of Sera- pis at Pozzuoli, and contains forty boxes, besides that appropriated to the royal family.

The *Oarden, with its lofty pruned hedges, contains beautiful fountains and cascades, adorned with statues. The grand terrace above the cascade (2 M. from the palace) affords beautiful points of view. The Botanical Oarden is interesting as proving that the

10 Route 1. MADDALONI.

trees of the colder north can be grown here with success. The Ca- sino Eeale di S. Leucio, in the park, about 2 M. to the N., near some large silk-factories, commands another fine prospect.

About 3 M. to the N.E. of the palace, on an elevated site, is Caserta Vecchia, with several interesting deserted palaces and the 12th cent, church of S. Michele.

From Caserta and from Capua there are roads to Caiazzo (about 9 M.) and on to Piedimonte d'Alife (rustic Inn) , prettily situated about 15 M. from Caiazzo, with flourishing mills, founded by Swiss merchants, at the foot of the Matese, the highest summit of which (Monte Miletto, 6725 ft.) may be ascended from Piedimonte in 5-6 hrs. On the top there is a lake sur- rounded by woods. View as far as the Adriatic and Tyrrhenian Sea.

Caserta is the junction of the Naples and Foggia railway (R. 17) , which runs above our line as far as Maddaloni , the next station, and for the branch -line to Castellammare (30'^ M. , in 2 hrs. ; fares 5 fr. 55, 3 fr. 90, or 2 fr. 50 c> The latter follows the main line as far as Cancello, where it diverges to the left and runs round the E. and S. sides of Mt. Vesuvius, past the stations of Marlgliano , Ottaiano, S. Giuseppe, Terzigno, and Boscoreale, to Torre Annunziata , the junction of the railway from Naples to Castellammare and Gragnano (pp. Ill, 143).

138 M. Maddaloni (20,000 inhab.), situated to the left, with an extensive deserted palace of the Caraffa family, is commanded by a ruined castle. On the Foggia line are the (2!/2 M.) Ponti della Valle (see p. 204), a celebrated aqueduct constructed by Vanvi- telli to water the gardens of Caserta, and usually visited hence.

141i/2 M. Cancello, whence branch-lines diverge to Castellam- mare (see above) and to Avellino (R. 11).

About l'/ijM. to theS.W. of Cancello, among the woods (Bosco d'Acovia), are the insignificant ruins of the ancient Oscan Suessula. The rich se- pulchral remains found here , chiefly vases and bronze ornaments , are preserved in the neighbouring Villa Spinelli.

Since the opening of the railway (R. 17) the high-road from Cancello to Benevento (25 M.) has been used for the local traffic only. It leads by S. Felice and Arienzo, and then passes through a narrow defile, con- sidered by many to be identical with the Furculae Caudinae which proved so disastrous to the fortunes of Rome, whence it ascends to the village of Arpaia. It next passes the small town of Montesarchio (the ancient Gau- dium according to some), with its castle, once the residence of the d'Avalos family, and recently used as a state prison, in which, among others, the well- known Poerio (d. 1867) was confined (eomp. p. 40).

To the left we observe Monte Sornma (p. 113), which conceals the cone of Vesuvius. 146 M. Acerra (14,500 inhab.) was the ancient Acerrae, to which the Roman citizenship was accorded as early as B. C. 332. The train crosses the trenches of the Begi Lagni, which drain the marshes of Pantano dell' Acerra, the an- cient Clanius, now VAgno, and form the boundary between the provinces of Caserta and Naples. 148 M. Casalnuovo. Vesuvius becomes visible on the left.

1541/2 M. Naples. Arrival, see p. 19.

11

2. From Rome to Naples via, Terracina and Gaeta.

166 M. From Rome to Terracina, 75x/2 M., Railway in 43/4 hrs. (no fast trains); fares 13 fr. 80, 9 fr. 70, 6 fr. 25 c. — From Terracina to Formia, 21 '/2 M., Diligence twice daily (at 7 a.m. and 1.30 p.m.; from Formia at 4.30 and 7 p.m.) in 4>/2 hrs., fare 4 fr. — Gaeta is now visited from Formia by railway, 5>/2 M. in 20 min. (fares 1 fr., 70 c, 50 c, there and back 1 fr. 60, 1 fr. 15, 75 c). — From Formia via Sparanise to Naples, 69 M., Railway in 434-5'/4 hrs.; fares 12 fr. 60, 8 fr. 80, 5 fr. 70c.

From Rome to (9 M.) Ciarnpino see p. 1. The lino diverges from the Naples line towards the S. — 10 72 M- Frattocchie. On the left rise the Alban hills. — 18 M. Cecchina, whence a steam-tramway runs to Albano. To -the right we obtain a glimpse of Monte Circello (1030 ft. ; p. 14), rising abruptly from the sea; nearer are the Volscian Mts. — 20*/2 M. Civita Lavinia, the ancient Lanuvium.

26 M. Velletri {Locanda Campana, Qallo, both good, with trat- torie), the ancient Velitrae, a town of the Volscians, which became subject to Rome in B.C. 338, is famous for its wine (pop. 8000). It stands picturesquely on a spur of the Monte Arternisio, 6 min. from the station. Velletri is the residence of the Bishop of Ostia. The loggia of the Palazzo Lancelotti commands a beautiful and extensive view. In the new cemetery, where Garibaldi defeated the Neapolitan troops on 19th May, 1849, a column of victory was erected in 1883.

From Velletri to Segni, 15 M., railway in 3/4 hr., via (5 M.) Ontanese and (lu M.) Artena.

The Terracina line intersects a desolate plain, devoid of interest. On the right lies the Logo di Oiulianello, an ancient crater. 33 M. Oiulianello. Farther on, the line skirts the slopes of Monte Calvello.

36 y2 M. Cori. The railway- station lies about 2'^ M. below the old town, the ancient Cora, which claimed to have been founded by the Trojan Dardanus or by Coras and still prospered during the Roman empire. Of its former importance, the remains of the ancient walls, constructed of huge polygonal blocks, the portico of the so-called Temple of Hercules and the remains of a Temple of Castor and Pollux still bear testimony. For farther details, see Baedeker's Central Italy.

38 M. Cisterna (Inn, poor), a small town with a castle of the Gaetani, situated 3 M. from the station on the last hill before the Pontine marshes are reached, was called Cisterna Neronis in the middle ages, and is believed to occupy the site of the ancient Tres Tabernae where the apostle Paul on his journey met the friends coming from Rome to welcome him (Acts, 2V). — 43l/2 M. Ninfa, a deserted mediaeval town, the ivyclad ruins of which date mainly from the 12th and 13th cent. The malaria which reigns here in summer has been the cause of its abandonment.

45!/2 M. Sermoneta-Norma. To the left, on an eminence, stands Sermoneta, with an ancient castle of the Gaetani family. Higher up lies the small mountain- village of Norma, below the ancient Norba, which was destroyed by the troops of Sulla during the civil wars, and is still surrounded by the well-preserved remains of a wall in the polygonal style, IY2ML in circumference, with several gates and towers.

12 Route 2. PONTINE MARSHES. From Borne

Farther on, the line skirts the Pontine Marshes (Paludi Pontini), which vary in breadth between the mountains and the sea from 6 to 11 M., and from Nettuno to Terracina are 31 M. in length. A considerable part of them is now cultivated ; particularly, however, they afford extensive pastures , the most marshy parts being the resort of the buffaloes. Towards the sea the district is clothed with forest (macchia). The malaria in summer is a dreadful scourge.

According to Pliny (Hist. Nat. iii. 5) , these marshes were anciently a fertile and well-cultivated plain, occupied by twenty-four villages, but towards the close of the republic gradually fell into their present con- dition owing to the decline of agriculture. A want of fall in the sur- face of the soil is the cause of the evil. The streams and canals are totally inadequate to carry off the excess of water which descends from the mountains during the rainy season, and its escape is further impeded by the luxuriant vegetation of the aquatic plants. Attempts to drain the marshes were successively made by the censor Appius Claudius in B. C. 312 (so says tradition), by the consul Cornelius Cethegus 130 years later, by Csesar, Augustus, Nerva, Trajan, and finally by Theodoric, King of the Goths, all of which were of temporary benefit only. Similar operations were undertaken by the popes Boniface VIII., Martin V., Sixtus V., and Pius VI. To the last is due the present admirably constructed road across the marshes, the cost of which amounted to 1,622,000 scudi (350,000J. sterling). At present the drainage is carried out in a most practical and comprehen- sive manner by the proprietors themselves, under the direction of the 'Ufflcio della bonificazione delle paludi Pontini' at Terracina.

52 M. Sezza (Locanda Nazionale, in the Piazza, unpretending) is the ancient Setia of the Volscians, a Roman colony after 382 B.C., and frequently mentioned in the Italian wars up to the time of Sulla. Under the empire its name was remembered only on account of its wine, which Augustus preferred even to Falernian. Considerable remains of its ancient walls have been preserved ; they are built of massive polygonal blocks, but with more attention to horizontal courses than was the case at Cori. The rough rusticated work here is an unusual feature in ancient town-walls, which in most other examples are carefully smoothed. A massive substructure in the same style, below (to the right) the entrance of the town, has been arbitrarily named Tempio di Saturno.

To the right, the high-road leads straight on through the Pontine plain, following the ancient Via Appia, the famous road constructed during the Samnite war, B.C. 312, by Appius Claudius, the censor (see above). On the left rise the slopes of Monte Trevi, crowned by the ruins of a town destroyed in the 16th century.

61 M. Piperno (Locanda della Rosetta, tolerable) was founded early in the middle ages by refugees from the ancient Volscian town of Privernum. The Cathedral, in the picturesque piazza, was built in 1823 and modernised in the interior in 1782.

The railway crosses the Amaseno and affords a picturesque view of its valley which is enclosed by lofty mountains, studded with ruined ca-tles and villages : Rocca Gorga, Maenza, Rocca Seccn, Prossedi, etc. — 04 M. Sonnino, once famous for the picturesquoness of the costume of the women, and for the audacity of the brigands.

to Naples. TERRAOINA. 2. Route. 13

About 1 M. from the station of Sonnina is the Cistercian convent of *Fossanuova, where St. Thomas Aquinas died in 1274 while on his way to the Council of Lyons. The convent-church, built about 1225 , with rectangular choir and a rectangular tower over the crossing, is one of the earliest examples of Italian Gothic. It has recently been restored. The cloisters, chapter-house, and refectory are also interesting. One of the rooms contains a relief of St. Thomas Aquinas, by Bernini.

The line turns to the S. — 69 M. Frasso. On the slope of Monte Leano once lay the sacred grove and fountain of Feronia mentioned by Horace (Sat. I, 5, 23). We now join the Via Appia. To the right, 11-12 M. distant, the Promontorio Circeo (p. 14) is visible on the whole journey, from.Velletri onwards.

75^2 M. Terracina. • — Hotels: Grand Hotel Royal, at the S. en- trance to the town, with a view of the sea at the back, E. & L. V/i fr., well spoken of; Locanda Nazionale, in the Piazza, less expensive.

Terracina, situated conspicuously on a rocky eminence (Hor. Sat. i. 5, 26), the Anxur of the ancient Volscians, and the Tarra- cina of the Romans , was formerly on the confines of the papal dominions, and still constitutes the natural frontier town between Central and Southern Italy. Pop. 7500. It is an ancient episcopal residence, and is one of the most picturesque spots in Italy. The high-road intersects the extensive but thinly peopled quarter of the town which was founded by Pius VI. , while the old town is built on the slope of the hill. Above the latter extend the ruins of the ancient city, crowned by the remains of the palace of Theodoric the Ostrogoth.

The *Cattedb,ale S. Cesaueo, in a large square, the ancient Forum, the pavement of which is well preserved, occupies the site of a Temple of Roma and of Augustus, dedicated to that emperor by A. ^Emilius, who also caused the forum to be paved. In the travertine slabs the inscription 'A. jEmilius F. F.' is distinctly legible in large letters. The vestibule of the cathedral rests on ten ancient columns, with recumbent lions at their bases. On the right is a large granite basin, which, according to the inscription, was used in torturing the early Christians. The beautiful fluted columns of the canopy in the interior belonged to the ancient temple. The pulpit, with its ancient mosaics, rests on columns with lions at their bases. — The clock tower (ascended by 91 steps) commands an extensive prospect.

The summit of the promontory may be attained in 3/4hr., di- Tectly from the new town but more conveniently from the old town, by ascending to the right, under the archway adjoining the cathe- dral. The latter route is partly by an ancient road passing remains of tombs and ancient walls, and then to the right by a gap in the wall encircling the olive-plantations, and through the latter along the dividing wall. The whole excursion requires about 3 hrs.; guide unnecessary. The so-called *Palace of Theodobjc, King of the Ostrogoths, erected about 500 A.D. and afterwards converted into a castle, occupies the summit. A corridor of twelve arches

14 Route 2. TERRACINA. From Rome

opens towards the sea on the S. side. The purposes of the dif- ferent parts of the structure cannot now be ascertained. Admirable *View. Towards the W. the prospect embraces the plain as far as the Alban Mts., then the Monte Circello ; towards the S. are the Pontine or Ponza Islands, the N.W. group of which comprises Ponza (Pontise, once a Roman colony), Palmarola (Palmaria), and Zan- none, all of volcanic origin, and the S. group Ventotene and S. Ste- fano; between the groups lies the small island of La Botte. The is- lands are still used, as in ancient times, as a place of detention for convicts. (Steamer from Naples, see p. 104.) Ventotene is the Pan- dateria of melancholy celebrity, to which Augustus banished his abandoned daughter Julia, and Tiberius relegated Agrippina, the daughter of Julia, and where Nero is said to have caused his di- vorced wife Octavia to be put to death. Towards the E. the plain of Fondi is visible; the village on the sea is Sperlonga (p. 16); farther off is the promontory of Gaeta with the Torre d'Orlando (p. 18), and finally the island of Ischia.

The Harbour of Terracina, still recognisable by the break- water, was of great importance during the Roman period, but is now entirely filled with sand. A new Molo affords indifferent shelter to coasting-vessels. The galley-convicts at the bagno here are partly employed in the harbour works, and partly in the quarries.

At the S. egress of the town is the Taglio di Pisco Montano, an interesting piece of Roman engineering. Beyond the Hotel Ro- yal the Monte Angelo with its picturesque and massy rocks ap- proaches close to the sea, in consequence of which Appius origin- ally conducted his road over the hill. At a later period the rocks were removed for the construction of a new and more spacious road. On the perpendicular wall thus produced the depth is in- dicated at intervals of 10 Roman feet, beginning from the top; the lowest mark, a few feet above the present road, is OXX. On the top, on a detached rocky protuberance, is a hermitage, now abandoned.

A good path leads along the shore in 3-4 hrs. to the (11 M.) the Pro- montorio Circeo, or Circello (1030 ft.), the Circeii of the ancients, the tra- ditional site of the palace and grove of the enchantress Circe, daughter of the sun, described by Homer. It is an isolated limestone rock, partly over- grown with wood. Accommodation of a rustic character may he obtained at S. Felice. The hill is strewn with the ruins of several mediseval towers, and also with a few fragments of the ancient town of Circeii, which became a Roman colony in B. C. 393 and still existed in Cicero's time. Thus, about halfway up the hill, under a group of lofty trees, is a low parapet of Roman workmanship enclosing a well called the Fontana di Mezzo Monte. At another point is the Fonte della Bagnaia , also with fragments of Roman masonry, and on the summit are the remains of a Temple of Circe. The "View from the top is magnificent: to the S.E. Ischia, Capri, and Mt. Vesuvius are distinctly visible ; to the N. the dome of St. Peter's can be distinguished; to the E. and N.E. we see the moun- tains as far as Velletri; to the W. and S.W. is the sea, with the Pontine Islands (see above). The rock is honeycombed with grottoes, some of which are of great extent. Cicero and Atticus, Tiberius and Domitian frequently r esorted to this spot. — Remains of Roman palaces and aqueducts have also

to Naples. FONDI. 2. Route. 15

been found at Lago di Paola, a small lake at the N. base of the promon- tory, where large oyster-beds were maintained by the Romans.

The High Road beyond Terracina still follows the direction of the Via Appia, and is flanked by remains of ancient tombs. The mountains which we skirt approach so near the sea as occasionally to leave barely space for the road. This pass was the ancient Lautulae. Here, in B. C. 315, the Romans fought a battle with the Samnites, and in the 2nd Punic War Fabius Maximus kept Hannibal in check at this point. On a hill about y2 M. to the left is situated the monastery of Retiro, on the site of the villa in which the empeior Galba was born. Then to the right is the Lake of Fondi, the Laeus Fundanus or Amyclanus of the ancients, named after the town of Amyclae which is said to have been founded here by fugitive Laconians. The village towards the E. on the slope facing the sea is Sperlonga (see p. 16).

The papal frontier was formerly at Torre dell' Epitafla. We next reach the gateway of the tower de' Confini, or La Portella, 4 M. from Terracina. On a height to the left is the village of Monti- celli; by the roadside are fragments of tombs. We now enter the extremely fertile Terra di Lavoro (p. 7).

The next place (11 M. from Terracina) is Fondi (5000 inhab.), the ancient Fundi , where Horace derides the pride of a civic of- ficial 'with broad purple border and censer' (Hor. Sat. i. 5 , 34). Change of horses, and halt of 1/i hr. (tolerable inn). The Chateau, part of which adjoins the cathedral, is miserably dilapidated. Some of the window-frames and decorations in the most tasteful Renais- sance style testify to its ancient splendour. In the 16th cent, it belonged to the Colonnas, and in 1534 it was occupied by the beau- tiful Countess Giulia Gonzaga. One night the countess narrowly escaped being captured by the daring pirate Haireddin Barbarossa, who purposed conveying her to the Sultan Soliman II. Exasperated by his failure , he wreaked his revenge on the town , as an in- scription in the church records. The town was again destroyed by the Turks in 1594. In the vicinity is the church of 8. Maria in the Gothic style, with an ancient facade and portal, disfigured in the interior by whitewash. It contains an ancient pulpit adorned with mosaic, and on the right a Madonna by Silvestro de' Buoni. A chapel is shown in the Dominican monastery in which Thomas Aquinas once taught. Considerable remains of the ancient town- walls are preserved. The principal street coincides with the an- cient Via Appia. In other respects the town is a sombre-looking place, and like Itri (see below) was for centuries a haunt of brigands.

Beyond Fondi the road traverses the plain for 3 M., after which it ascends Monte S. Andrea through mountain -ravines, where additional horses are necessary. It then descends to the poor town of Itri, with a ruined castle, where remains of sub- structures of the ancient Via Appia, built into the houses, are

16 Route 2. FORMIA. From Rome

visible from the road. Itri was once notorious for the robberies committed there. It was here that the robber-chief Marco Sciarra promised a safe conduct and protection to the poet Tasso ; and Fra Diavolo (whose real name was Michele Pezza) was also a native of Itri. He was at last captured by the French near Salerno and executed. Anecdotes are still related of this daring brigand, and Washington Irving's sketch 'The Inn of Terracina', the foundation of Auber's opera, has greatly contributed to maintain their interest.

A mountainous path leads from Itri, to the right, in 2l/i hrs. to the fishing-village of Sperlonga, situated on a sandy promontory, and deriving its name from the grottoes (speluncae) in the neighbouring rocks. In one of these, as Tacitus informs us (Ann. iv. 59), Sejauus saved the life of Ti- berius, which was imperilled by a falling rock. On the way to the grotto we observe Roman ruins, and the grotto itself contains benches and stucco ornaments. The excursion may best be made by boat from Gaeta, from which Sperlonga is about 9l/2 M. distant.

From Itri the road descends for some distance on galleries, and finally between woods and vineyards towards the coast, re- vealing an exquisite view of the bay of Gaeta, with its glittering villas and other edifices; in the distance are Ischia and Procida; still further off rise the Monte S. Angelo (p. 145) and Vesuvius.

Farther on, we perceive to the right, in the middle of a vineyard, on a square base, a massive round tower, believed to be Cicero's Tomb. It was in this neighbourhood, not far from his Formianum, that the proscribed orator, who sought to elude the pursuit of the triumvirs Octavian, Antony, and Lepidus, was murdered by the tribunes Herennius and Popilius Lienas , 7th Dec, B.C. 43, in the 64th year of his age. On a height above the road may be traced the foundations of a temple of Apollo, said to have been founded by Cicero. Numerous re- lics of ancient buildings are still extant on the whole bay, which, like the bay of Naples, was a favourite resort of the Roman nobles, and was covered with the most sumptuous villas. Tradition has assigned several of these to Cicero, but without the slightest historical foundation. The road now descends to Formia.

Formia (* Hotel del Fiori , on the coast, R. ll/2 fr., pre- ferable to the inns at Gaeta), the ancient Formiae, a town with 10,000 inhab., was called Mola di Oaeta under the former regime. The beauty of its situation constitutes its sole attraction. The mountain-range on the N. side of the bay rises abruptly from the sea, the lower slopes being clothed with gardens of lemons, oranges, and pomegranates, and with vineyards and olive-plantations.

One of the most delightful points is the so-called Villa of Cicero , or Villa Caposele , above the town , formerly a favourite residence of the kings of Naples. It now belongs to .Sign. Gaetano Rubino (permission to visit it obtained by leaving a card at his palazzo opposite the prefecture; boy to act as guide ^2 fr.)-

At the entrance are ancient inscriptions and statues. The lower part of the garden contains considerable remains of an ancient villa, supposed to have belonged to Cicero, but evidently from its construction

'to Naples. GAETA. 2. Route. 17

dating from the 1st or 2nd cent, of the Roman imperial era. Among the vaulted halls is one with eight columns and a semicircular apse, now converted into offices. During the siege of Gaeta, General Cialdini es- tablished his headquarters here. The upper terrace commands an un- interrupted survey of the charming hay, Gaeta, Ischia, the promontories of the Bay of Naples, and the mountain range to the S. of the Liris, which separates the latter from the region of the Volturno.

Excursion to Gabta. The railway (S1^ M., in 20 min. ; see p. 11) skirts the coast, past numerous remains of villas, which the Romans were in the habit of building out into the sea as far as pos- sible. Among them a spot is pointed out as the scene of the assas- sination of Cicero (see p. 16).

Gaeta (Albergo Villa Oaeta, well spoken of; Italia; Caff'e Nazionale), the ancient Portus Caieta, with 19,000 inhab., is an important fortress, but insignificant as a commercial town. The promontory of Gaeta resembles the cape of Misenum in formation, presenting from a distance the appearance of a gigantic tumulus. Tradition has pointed it out as the tomb of Caieta, the nurse of ./Eneas , and Munatius Plancus , a contemporary of Augustus and founder of Lyons (d. after 22 B. C), accordingly erected a con- spicuous and imposing monument on its summit. From this eminence projects a lower rock which bears the citadel with the Torre Angio- vina and the town.

The strength of the place was first put to the test during the bar- barian immigrations. Gaeta successfully resisted the attacks of the Germanic invaders, and with Amain and Naples constituted one of the last strong- holds of ancient culture. It afterwards became a free city, presided over by a doge, and carried on a considerable trade with the Levant. It bade defiance to the assaults of the Lombards and Saracens, and preserved its freedom down to the 12th cent., when with the rest of Southern Italy it was compelled to succumb to the Normans. The fortress was extended and strengthened at various periods by the Arragonese, by Charles V., and especially by the last Bourbon monarchs. In 1501 it surrendered to the French, in 1504 to the Spaniards under Gonsalvo da Cordova, in 1734 to the' Spaniards again, and in 1798 to the French. In 1806 it was gallantly defended by the Prince of Hessen-Philippsthal, who, aided by the Eng- lish fleet, held out for nearly six months against a powerful French army under' Massena. Pope Pius IX. when banished in Nov., 1848, sought an asylum here, and remained at Gaeta until his return to Rome in April, 1850. In Nov., 1860, Francis II. of Naples, the last of the Bourbon kings, sought refuge here, and his queen Mary, Duchess of Bavaria, took a prominent part in the defence of the fortress, but the town was at length compelled to capitulate by the Italian fleet on 23rd Feb., 1861. The king was conveyed to Rome by a French man-of-war.

The Cattedrale di 8. Erasmo has a remarkable campanile ; at the entrance are four ancient columns and relics of old sculptures. The modernised interior and the crypt are uninteresting. At the back of the high-altar (covered) is the banner presented by Pope Pius V. to Don John of Austria, the hero of Lepanto, representing the Saviour with SS. Peter and Paul. — Opposite the principal portal of the church is a sculptured Gothic column resting on four lions.

Near the Piazza is the modern Gothic church of S. Francesco. Among the antiquities of the town may be mentioned the remains

Baedeker. Italy III. 11th Edition. 2

18 Route 2. GAETA.

of an amphitheatre and of a theatre, and also a column bearing the names of the twelve winds in Greek and Latin.

The so-called *Torre d'Orlando, or tomb of Munatius Plancus (see p. 17), situated on the summit of the promontory, is now en- closed by the new fortifications (permission of the commandant of Gaeta necessary, now rarely granted). It consists of a huge circular structure of travertine blocks, resembling that of Caecilia Metella at Rome, 160 ft. high and as many in diameter. At the top is a frieze with military emblems. Instead of this tomb the Torre Angiovina, or Anjou Tower, of the citadel overlooking the town, may be visited (adm. usually granted by the officer on duty; ascent too difficult for ladies). The view embraces towards the N.W. the coast as far as Mte. Circeo , to the W. the sea with the Ponza Islands , to the E. and S. the bay of Gaeta, Ischia, Procida, Capri, and Misenum.

The Railway prom Formia to Sparanise (p. 1 1) generally follows the direction of the high-road, at first not far from the sea. Farther on, we observe to the left a long series of arches of an ancient aque- duct. 7 M. Minturna, on the slope to the left, the ancient Min- tumae, with the remains of a theatre and an amphitheatre. 11 M. S. S. Cosma e Damiano Castelforte. The line crosses the Qarigliano, the Liris of the ancients, in the marches of which Marius once sought to elude the pursuit of the hirelings of Sulla. On the right bank of the Garigliano, 27th Dec. 1503, Don Gonsalvo da Cordova fought the decisive battle with the French which placed Naples in his power. Piero de' Medici , who, having been banished from Florence, had followed the French, endeavoured to escape to Gaeta in a boat with four field-pieces. The boat, however, sank, and all its occupants were drowned. Piero was buried at Monte Cassino (p. 5). The high- road crosses the river by a suspension-bridge constructed in 1832.

The ancient Via Appia farther on skirts the sea, and to the W. of Monte Massico, whose wines Horace and Virgil have immortalised, reaches Mondragone, near the Sinuessa of Herace (destroyed by the Saracens in the 10th cent.), where to his great joy he was met on his journey (Sat. i. 5, 39) by his friends Plotius, Varius, and Virgil. Horace then crossed the Savo (Savone) by the Pons Campauus and proceeded to Capua. In the vicinity, towards the Volturnus, was the Ager Falernus, where excellent wine, highly praised by the ancients, is still produced.

16 M. Cellole Fasani. — 20i/2 M. Sessa Aurunca, the ancient Suessa Aurunca, situated on a volcanic hill, with interesting ruins of a bridge, amphitheatre, etc. Other relics are preserved in the ancient cathedral and the churches of S. Benedetto and S. Giovanni. In the principal street are memorial stones with inscriptions in honour of Charles V., above which is an old crucifix with a mosaic cross. — To the right rises Monte Massico (see above).

23 M. Cascano; 25y2 M. Carinola; 28 M. Maiorisi. The line then crosses the Savone, not far from the picturesque castle of Fran- colisi, and reaches —

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19 3. Naples.

a. Arrival, Hotels, Pensions, Restaurants, Cafes, etc.

Arrival, (a) Br Railway. The station (Stazione Centrales PI. H, 3) is situated at the E. end of the town. The principal hotels all send Omnibuses (l'/2 fr.) to meet the trains. Cabs: with two horses (nearest the entrance) 1 fr. 40 c, each trunk 20c. ; with one horse (outside the railings, farther distant; seats for two persons only) 80 c, each trunk 20 c. ; no charge is made for smaller articles of luggage. The Facchini who take the luggage to the cab are paid, according to tariff: 10c. for a travelling-bag or a hat- box, 20 c. for heavier articles, 40 c. for boxes weighing 2vi0-400 lbs.; but a few soldi more are usually given. As a long delay often takes place before the delivery of the luggage, it is perhaps the best plan to take a cab direct to the hotel and send some one for the luggage, though, of course , this incurs a little extra expense. The services of officious by- standers should be declined. The formalities of the municipal douane are soon terminated, the declaration of the traveller that his luggage con- tains no comestibles liable to duty being generally accepted.

(b) By Steamboat. As soon as permission to disembark is granted, a small boat (1 fr. for each person, with luggage li/2 fr.) conveys the passengers to the Dogana near the Immacolatella (PL G, 5), where luggage is examined. This done, one of the 'facchini della dogana1 places the luggage on the fiacre or other conveyance (40 c. for each trunk, 10 c. for each small article). The offices of the steamboat-companies are close to the harbour.

Police Office (Questura), Palazzo S. Giacomo (Municipio; P). E, F, 6), on the side next the Via Paolo Emilio Imbriani. The guardians of the public peace consist of Carabinieri (black and red coat with three-cornered hat), the Guardie di Pubblica Sicurezza (dark uniform with white buttons and military cap), and the Guardie Municipali (with yellow buttons and numbers on their caps). The latter are specially entrusted with the super- vision of vehicles. — Complaints about cabmen should be made at the Ufficio Centrale del Corso Pubblico, in the Municipio, 1st floor (p. 37).

Hotels (comp. also Introd. p. xxiv : Climate and Health of Naples). Families visiting Naples towards the end of winter or in spring, when the influx of visitors is at its height, had better secure rooms by letter, some time before their arrival. The charges at the larger hotels are then tole- rably high, but it must not be forgotten that only the first-class houses are fitted with lifts, electric lighting, and other conveniences, besides being thoroughly heated, a matter of importance in cold weather. In summer prices are everywhere lower. Most hotels receive guests en pension if a stay of several days is made; while on the other hand many of the undermen- tioned pensions receive guests even for a single day.

In the Corso Vittorio Emanuele and the adjoining Rione Principe Amedeo (PI. B, C, D, 7, 6), in a healthy situation and with a splendid view: "Hotel Bristol (PI. a; D, 6), with good sanitary arrangements, R. 3-6, B. 11/2, dej. 3, D. 5, L. 3/4i a. 1, pension 11-14 fr. ; "Parker's Hotel Tea- montano (PI. b; C, 6); adjoining, *Hot. Britannique (PI. q; C, 6; Mrs. Hacpherson), R., L., & A. from 3'/2, B. I1/2, dej. 21/2, D. 4, pens. 8-12 fr.; these two patronized by the English and Americans. — A little below the Curso Vittorio Emanuele, but also with a fine view: 'Westend Hotel (late Hot. Nubile; PI. c; C, 6), in the same style as the Grand Hotel (see below), li. from 3, L. 3/4, A. 1, B. l'/2, dej. 31/2, D. 5, pens. 10-14 fr.

Lower Town, near the sea. In the Piazza Umberto: "Grand Hotel (PI. d; B, 7), in an open and healthy situation close to the sea, with a splendid view, R. from 4, L. »/,, A. 1, B. I1/2, dej. 31/2, D. 5, pens. 10-15 fr. — In the Riviera di Chiaja (PI. D, C, B, 7), near the Villa Nazionale, with a view of the Villa and the sea : No. 276 , sGran Bretagna (PI. e ; D , 7), R., L., & A. from 31/2, B. I1/2, dej. 31/2, D. 5, pens. 10-15 fr. ; No. 127, Hotel-Pension de la Riviera (PI. f; C, 7), pens. 8-10 fr. ; No. 118, Hotel- Pens, de la Ville, R. , L. , & A. from 3, B. 1, dej. 21/2, D. 31/2, pens. 7-8 fr. — In the Via Partenope, facing the sea, with the Strada Chiatamone

2*

20 Route 3. NAPLES. Hotels.

behind: Vittoeia (PI. v; E, 7); Hasslee (PI. H ; E, 7), patronized by Ger- mans, E. from 3, L. 1/2, A. 3/4, B. I1/2, dej. with wine 3, D. with wine 4V2, pens. 11-12, or without dej. 9-10 fr.; Washington (PL K; E, 7), E., L., & A. from 3, B. l'/2, dej. 3'/2, D. 4V2 (both incl. wine), pens. 8 fr. ; ''Ho- tel Eotal des Eteangees (PI. j ; E, 7), R., L., & A. from 5 , B. li/s, dej. 4, D. 5, pens, from 12'/2 fr., patronized by the English and Americans; "MGteopole (PI. c; E, 7), E. from 2, L. 3/<, A. */<, B- I'A*, i63- 21/2, D. 4, pens, from 71/2 fr.; 'Hot. du Vesuve (PI. g; E, 7), R. from 3, A. «/4, B. I1/2, dej. 2V2, D. 4 fr. — In the Strada S. Lucia, to the E. of the Pizzofalcone (PI. E, 7): Hotel de Rossie (PI. n; F, 7), R. 2-3 fr., L. 60, A. 60c, B. l'/4, dej. 274, D. 372, pens. 7-9 fr.

The following second-class hotels, near the centre of traffic, are_ chiefly visited by commercial men. At the top of the Strada Medina : Hotel de Geneve et Centkal (PI. 0; F, 5), with lift, B. 3, B. IV2, D. incl. wine 472, L. & A. 172, pens. 10 fr. ; La Pateia, 32 Via S. Giuseppe, diverging to the left of the Strada Medina a little farther on (PI. F, 5), R. 272 fr., unpre- tending; Ceoce di Malta, Gradini S. Giuseppe 6. — In the Piazza S. Fer- dinando , at the beginning of the Toledo (PI. E, 6): Hotel d'Eueope and Hotel d'Oeient, belonging to the same landlord, entrance by Strada Nar- dones. — In the Largo della Caritat Hotel de l'Univees, R. 272-3, L. 72,

A. 7z, B. 1 fr. 20 c, dej. 2-272, D. 3-372 (both incl. wine). - In the Via Guantai Nuovi : Hotel de Naples, Palazzo Serena, No. 102, R. from 172!

B. 1, dej. 274, D. 372 (both incl. wine), pens. 9 fr. — Near the railway- station, in the new Via Firenze (PI. H, 3): No. 11, Bella Napoli.

Pensions. The following may all be recommended for a stay of from 3-4 days upwards (comp. p. xix). — Via Partenope, No. 1, corner of the Largo Vittoria (p. 34): Pension Macpheeson (same proprietrix as Hotel Britannique, p. 19), with lift, patronized by the English, 8-12 fr. — Chia- tamone, No. 23: Pens. d'Allemagne, 7-9 fr. — S. Lucia: No. 5 (1st floor), Pens, de Geneve, patronized by Germans, 6-7 fr. — Strada Nardwm: No. 60 (1st & 2nd floors), to the W. of Piazza S. Ferdinando and the To- ledo, Pens. Tedesca, 6 fr. — Rampe Brancaccio (PI. D, 6; too steep for carriages); No. 20 (1st floor), Maison Bouebon, patronized by Germans, 6-7 fr. — Parco Margherita (PI. D, 6): No. 2, Pens, du Midi, 7-9 fr.; No. 3, Pens. Stoeet-Pinto, 6 fr. ; Pens. Poli, 6-7 fr. — Corso Principe Amedeo (PI. C, 6), No. 14, Hotel d: Pension Bellevoe, 7-9 fr. — Mergellina 34 (PI. B, 7), Pal. Torlonia, Mks. Falcioni-Hensley (English Boarding House). — Strada Nuova di Posilipo (p. 87), Pens. Ang- laise ( Villa Cappella; Miss Baker), 6-8 fr. ; Pens. Sabelli, 6-8 fr. ; both patronized by the English.

Hotels Garnis. For a stay of some duration (10 days and upwards) the traveller .may prefer to take rooms at a private hotel, where he will be more independent than at a hotel or a pension. Charges vary with the season , culminating on unusual occasions , such as an eruption of Mt. Vesuvius, which invariably attracts crowds of visitors. The rooms are generally large and fitted up for two persons: with one bed 172-4, with two beds 3-6 fr. per day. The number of days for which the room is engaged should be expressly stated, otherwise the visitor may be required to leave unexpectedly, and a distinct bargain should be made as. to charges («. g, : A. 72 fr., L. 30 c. per day). Breakfast may usually be obtained in the house, but better at a cafe. The best lodgings are in the new houses in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele and the Rione Principe Amedeo, with splendid view (50-60 fr. monthly, incl. attendance): e. g. in the Casa Amedeo, Corso Vitt. Emanuele 143; also in S. Lucia, Nos. 28, 31, 92; in the .Chiaja, Nos. 171, 260, 263, etc.

Restaurants (Trattorie; comp. p. xx) very numerous. Italian cuisine. Smoking universal ; ladies, however, may visit the better of these establish- ments. — "Birreria Gambrinus, Piazza S. Ferdinando, dej. ,11-1 o'cl. 2, D., 6-9 o'cl., 4fr.; "Birreria di Monaco, Piazza Municipio, Via S. Carlo' 49-50, dej. incl. wine 2-2'/2, D. incl. wine, 3-5 fr.; 'Rent. Starace, Galleria Cm- berto 1, dej. 272, D. 4 fr. (both incl. wine). These three h;tve excellent cuisine and good wines; also Munich beer on draught, 35-55 c ; music in the evening at the two last. — Restaurant. Continental, Strada Medina 61 well spoken of; Birreria-Restaurant Eden. S. Lucia, onDosife the Hotel du

Restaurants. NAPLES. 3. Route. 21

Vesuve, with garden. — Giardini di Torino", Toledo 300, at the corner of the Vico Tre Ee, moderate; Regina <T Italia, Toledo 319, entrance in the Vico S. Sepolcro, much frequented; Trattoria Com fortabile, also in the Toledo, close to the Largo dellaCarita; Falcone, Strada Guantai Nuovi 9; Al Campidoglio , same street; Trattoria Milanese, opposite the post-office, with N. Italian cuisine and wines ; Cafi Santangelo, in the Galleria Prin- cipe di Napoli (p. 41), lunch 2-3, D. 4-5 fr., convenient for visitors to the museum, hut not recommended in cold weather. Several cheaper trattorie may also be. found in this neighbourhood.

The Trattorie di Campagna, by the Posilipo, close to the sea, are very popular in summer and command superb views, especially by moonlight. Figlio di Pielro , La Sirena , close to the ruins of the Palazzo di Donn' Anna (p. 87), l'/a M. from the W. end of the town; two Trattorie in the Palazzo itself; about 1/4 M. beyond it is the Antica Trattoria dello Scoglio di Frisio; all these are mediocre and dear, so that previous agreement, as to charges is strongly recommended. The following are somewhat cheaper houses: Trait, della Stella di Posilipo, Bellavista, etc.; all beauti- fully situated on the Posilipo, near the tramway-terminus. The Trattoria Pallino (p. 85), on the Posilipo (exquisite view), and the Trattoria Pastafina, at the W. extremity of the Corso Vitt. Emanuele, near the station of the line to Cuinre (Ferrovia Cumana; p. 91), are also much frequented.

Wine. The wine of the environs is generally excellent, 50-80 c. per litre, such as Salerno, Gragnano, Ischia, Vino di Procida, del Monte di Procida, and di Posilipo. Marsala , Falerno , Capri , and Lacrima Christi are sold by the bottle. Wine-stores: Str. S. Caterina a Chiaja 136, 146; Via Paolo Emilio Imbriani 42 (good Vesuvio), etc. Good Neapolitan, Sicilian, and S. Italian wines may also be obtained at numerous small and very un- pretending wine-stores, such as the Osteria Vincenzo Bifulgo, Vico Conte di Mola (PI. B, 6). Foreign wines sold by Luigi Caflisch, Toledo 315 and S. Caterina a Chiaja 142; Rouff, Scala, Strada S. Caterina a Chiaja; etc.

Cafes (comp. p. xxi). The best cafes are at the S. end of the Toledo, near the Piazza del Plebiscite. Here are situated: "Cafi-Restaurant Gam- brimis (see p. 20); farther on, "Restaurant Starace (see p. 20). There are also several smaller cafes in the Toledo: No. 316, Gran Cafe" <f Italia. — Gaffe di Monaco, near the Castel Nuovo. — At the Villa Nazionale : Caffe di Napoli, adjoining the Aquarium, concerts in the afternoon or evening (ac- cording to the season). — Coffee prepared in the Oriental style may be obtained at the Caffe Turco, in the Piazza del Plebiscito, and the Caffe Turco, Strada S. Brigida.

Beer. In the Birrerie and trattorie mentioned above; Sedlmayr zum Spaten (Munich beer in bottles), Strada Guantai Nuovi 46, 3rd floor.

Confectioners: "Caflisch, Toledo 253-255 and Strada S. Caterina a Chiaja 142; Van Bol A Feste , Piazza S. Ferdinando 51 ; Ferroni, S. Brigida 3. — Boulangerie Francaise, S. Brigida 2; Machine-made Bread, Via Vittoria 11 ; German Baker, Str. Carlo Poerio a Chiaja 69. — English Grocery Stores (Smith & Co.), Galleria Umberto.

Cigars. The government-shop (Spaccio normale) is in the Toledo, No. 248, opposite the Galleria Umberto I. Imported Havannah cigars cost from 25 c. upwards.

b. Carriages, Tramways, Boats.

Information about cab-fares, and the tramway and railway communi- cations in the environs of Naples will be found in the Orario, published monthly, and sold everywhere in the streets (5 c).

Carriages. The distances in Naples are so great, carriage-fares are so moderate, and walking in the hot season is so fatiguing, that most tra- vellers will prefer driving to walking. A private two-horse carriage for excursions costs 20-25 fr. per day, or 12-15 fr. for half-a-day, besides a gratuity of 2-3 fr. Carriages may be hired at the hotels, etc. — The ordinary cabs are of course the cheapest conveyances. The cabmen of Naples are notorious for their attempts at imposition. In order to avoid imposi- tion, the best course is to pay the exact fare, and not a single soldo more.

22 Route 3. NAPLES. Cabs.

Those who are disposed to pay literally are sure to be victimised. The Neapolitans strike a bargain before entering the vehicle, and sometimes pay even less than the tariff-charge. In order to avoid misunderstandings, the driver should be asked to repeat the given direction before starting ('avete capito dove dovete andare'). In case of altercations, application should be made to the nearest policeman (p. 19), or at the office of the Corso Pubblico on the first floor of the Municipio. In the latter case the tra- veller should not forget to take one of the tickets bearing the driver's number from the pocket hanging behind the box of the vehicle. — A careful study of the tramway and omnibus routes given below will render the traveller practically independent of cabs.

Cab Fares. — a. Within the City proper, extending W. to the Mer- gellina, N. to the Tondo di Capodimonte (PI. D, E, 1), and E. to the Ponte della Maddalena (to the E. of the Castel del Carmine; PI. H, 4).

Open one-horse carriage ('carrozzella'', for two By day By night persons, or three at most): '"mJUuS)'*

Per drive — 70 c. 1 fr. 10 c.

By time (generally disadvantageous), first hour 1 fr. 50 c. 2 fr. 10 c.

Each additional hour 1 fr. 10 c. 1 fr. 50 c.

Closed one-horse carr. (vetture-coupee), per drive 1 fr. — 1 fr. 50 c.

By time : first hour 2 fr. — 2 fr. 50 c.

Each additional hour 1 fr. 50 c. 2 fr. —

With two horses: per drive 1 fr. 40 c. 2 fr. 20 c.

First hour 2 fr. 20 c. 3 fr. 20 c.

Each additional hour 1 fr. 70 c. 2 fr. 20 c.

Each box from the station to the town 20 c, smaller articles free. For a drive in the corso in the Via Caracciolo (p. 33), a carr. with one horse costs 3 fr. , with two horses 6 fr. the first hr. , 2 or 4 fr. each additional hour, (b) Outside the Citt: — One-horse Two-horse

Fuorigrotta 1. 20 2. 40

Bagnoli and Lago d"Agnano (Bog Grotto) ... 2. 50 4. —

Pozzaoli 3. — 4. 75

Arenella, Aniignano, Vomero, S. Martino,

or Villaggio di Capodimonte 2. — 3. 25

Campo di Marie or Cimelero Nuovo 2. — 3. 25

Portici 2. 25 3. 50

Resina 2. 50 4. —

Torre del Greco 3. 50 5. —

These are the fares from the stands nearest to the respective points. Un- less a special bargain be made, the fares from other stands are 70 c. to 1 fr. 10 c. in excess of the above. Cabs may also be hired by time for visits to these places ; one-horse carr. 2i/2, two-horse 3V2 fr. per hr. For longer excursions, an agreement should be made with the driver beforehand. On Sundays and holidays the fares are somewhat higher.

Tramways in the town. — Fare 15-30c, according to the distance. The 2nd class seats, which are cheaper by 5 c, should be avoided.

1 (Horse Cars). From the Post Office (PI. F, 5) across the Pi- azza del Municipio (PI. F, 6), by the Via S. Carlo, the Piazza or Largo S. Ferdinando (PI. E, 6 ; p. 36), Piazza del Plebiscito, Strada S. Lucia (PI. E, F, 7), Chiaja, past La Toreetta (junction of the tramway to Pozzuoli, see p. 23) through the Mergellina, and past the Palazzo di DonrC Anna to the trattoria Stella di Posilipo (p. 21).

2 (Horse Cars). From the Largo S. Ferdinando (PI. E, 6 ; p. 36), by the Piazza del Municipio (PI. F, 6), Strada del Piliero (PI. F, G, 6, 5), etc., past the Castel del Carmine (PI. H, 40; p. 39), to Portici (p. 108; every 10 min.) and Torre del Greco (p. 110; every 20mln.).

3 (Horse Cars). From the Museum (PI. E, F, 3) as in No. 4 via Porta Capuana and the Castel del Carmine to Porlici (p. 108).

4 (Horse Cars). From the Piazza S. Ferdinando (PI. E, 6 ; p. 36) as above to the Castel del Carmine (PI. H, 4; p. 39), then to the N. through the Corso Garibaldi past the Central Station (PI. H, 3) to the Porta Capu-

Tramways. NAPLES. 3. Route. 23

ana (PI. H, 3; p. 49), and by the Strada Carbonara (PI. G, 3), Strada Foria, and Piazza Cavour to the Museum (PI. E, F, 3; p. 55).

5 (Horse Cars). From the Tiro Provinciale (PI. H, 1) by the Strada Foria and Piazza Cavour to the Museum (PI. E, F, 3 ; p. 55).

6 (Horse Cars). From the Reclusorio (PI. G , H, 2, 1) through the Borgo S. Antonio and the Cvrso Garibaldi (PI. H, 3, 4), and past the Castel del Carmine, then along the Harbour, and as in No. 4 to La Torretta (PI. B, 7; see below).

7 (Steam Tramway). From the Museum (PI. E, F, 3) by a rack-and-pinion line through the Via Salvator Rosa (PI. E , 3) to the Piazza Salvator Kosa (PI. E , D , 4) ; then by ordinary steam-tramway along the whole Corso Vittorio Emanuele to the Piazza di PiedigroUa (PI. B, 7) and thence to La Torretta (PI. B, 7; see above, No. 1 and 6, and below). Trains (24 daily in each direction) about every 40 min., from 6.40 and 7 a.m., performing the journey in 50 min. (fare 15-30 c). The train stops as required, but there are fixed stations at the Piazza Salvator Rosa, Vico Cariati (PI. E, 6), Rione Amedeo (Parco Margherita, PI. C, 6), and Via Tasso (PI. C, 6).

Cable Tramways (Ferrovie Funicolari) to the top of the Vomero (PI. C, 5) from Rione Amedeo (PI. C, 6; with station beside the Hotel Bristol in the Corso Vitt. Eman. PI. D, 7) and from Monte Santo (PI. E, 4; near the station of the Pozzuoli, Baise, and Cumse Railway).

Tramways in the Environs. — 1 (Horse Cars). The line mentioned above (No. 2) to Portici and Torre del Greco.

2 (Horse Cars). From the Porta Capuana (beside the railway-station for Nola, PI. H, 3) to the Camposanto (p. 49) and to Poggio Reale.

3 (Steam Tramway). From the Porta Capuana to the Tiro a Segno (PI. H, 1) , and via Capodichino, S. Pietro a Patierno, Casoria, Afragola, and Cardito to Caivano (every I-IV2 hr.).

4 (Steam Tramway). From the Porta Capuana (as in No. 3) to Capo- dichino, and via Secondigliano , Melito (branch to Giugliano), to Aversa (p. 203), every 2 hrs.

5 (Steam Tramway). From 1a Torretta (PI. B, 7 ; steam-tramway from the Museum , see above) through the new Grotta di Posilipo to Poz- zuoli (p. 93). The cars are drawn from the Piazza S. Ferdinando (p. 22) by horses and are attached to the locomotive at La Torretta, so that passengers need not alight. To make sure of a seat it is advisable to take the car from the Piazza S. Ferdinando.

Omnibuses. The chief starting-point is the Piazza S. Ferdinando (PI. E, 6 ; p. 36), whence among others start the omnibuses (every 5 min.) ascend- ing the Toledo to the Museum (PI. E, F, 3), and plying thence to Capodimonte (PI. E, 1); and those running by the Corso Principe Amedeo to the Corso Vittorio Emanuele Station (PI. B, 6) of the line to Pozzuoli mentioned at p. 91 (20 c). — The omnibuses plying from the Piazza del Municipio to the environs are not recommended to strangers.

Boats. Row in the harbour 1-1 1/2 fr. for the first, 1 fr. for each ad- ditional hour. A previous agreement should be made. Boats to the mail- steamers, lfr. including luggage; to the Ischia, Sorrento, and Capri steamers 30c. — A large steamer, starting at the new wooden bridge in the Via Caracciolo, makes Circular Tours in the Gulf of Naples on Sun. evenings in summer (weather permitting). Fares from 6.30 till 8 , 1 fr. ; from 9.30 till midnight, 2 fr.

0. Bankers, Money Changers, Consulates, Physicians, Hospitals, Baths, Post and Telegraph Office, English Church, etc.

Bankers. W. J. Turner & Co., S. Lucia 64; Meuricoffre d; Co., Via del Municipio 52 ; Holme & Co. , Strada Flavio Gioia 2 ; Th. Cook <& Son, Piazza dei Martiri 52; C. Aselmeyer, Via S. Brigida 6. Bills of exchange and foreign cheques must be stamped on presentation for payment with a '■bollo straordinario\ obtainable at the Uffizio del Bollo Straordinario in the Municipio.

Honey Changers are stationed at several of the most frequented parts of the streets. Small amounts of 1-2 fr. may be exchanged here gratuit-

24 Route 3. NAPLES. Baths.

ously for copper. In changing silver, the traveller should beware of false or obsolete coins (see p. xi). No other banknotes should be taken than the Biglietti di Stato, or those of the Banca Nazionale and the Banco di Napoli. The change should of course be counted. In order to avoid impo- sition and many a trial of patience, the traveller should always be well provided with copper coins.

Consulates. American (Mr. John S. Twells), 64 Strada S. Lucia (11-3); Austrian, S. Anna dei Lombardi 44; British (Capt. Hartwell, R.N.), 4 Monte di Dio, Pizzofalcone (10-3); Danish, Via S. Brigida6; Norwegian and Swe- dish, Via Amedeo 15; Dutch, Piazza del Municipio 52; French, Via Vittoria, Pal. Amodio; German, Via Pontano 13; Russian, Via Chiatamone30; Swiss, Piazza del Municipio 52.

Physicians. Dr. C. Wright Barringer, Riviera di Chiaja 267; Dr. Johnston Lavis, Chiatamone 7; Dr. Gairdner , Pal. Fraia, Via Amedeo 128; Dr. Can- tani (of Prague), director of the Clinica Medica at the university, Str. Fuoriporta Medina 23 ; Dr. Malbranc, physician of the German hospital (see below), Via Amedeo 145, Palazzo Grifeo; Dr. Schrbn, professor at the university, Palazza Montemiletto, Corso Vitt. Emanuele 440 (hour of consul- tation 9-10); Dr. Imfeld, Eldorado, Piazza Mondragone; Dr. Scotti (ocu- list), physician to the International Hospital (see below) ; Dr. Cardarelli, Strada Costantinopoli 33 ; Dr. Ernesto Chiaradia. 31 Bisignano (speaks English). — Dentists: Dr. Atkinson, Via Roma (gia Toledo) 228; Dr. Kessel, Piazza dei Martiri 19.

Chemists. Anglo-American Pharmacy (J. Durst). Piazza Garofalo a Chiaja 31 ; Santoro, Piazza Carolina 7 (above the Piazza del Plebiscito), Homeopathic Druggist, Toledo 388. — Drug-dealers, Fratelli Hermann, Piazza del Municipio 73. — Surgical and Hygienic Articles. Mineral Water, etc., H. Pe- tersen, Strada S. Anna dei Lombardi 49, near the post-office.

Hospitals. In the event of serious illness travellers are strongly re- commended to procure admission to the Ospedale Jnternazionale, Villa Bentinck, Via Tasso (PI. C, 6), in a most healthy situation, supported by voluntary contributions, and open to strangers of all nationalities, under the superintendence of Dr. Scotti (1st cl. 15, 2nd cl. 6 fr. per day). — Another good and less expensive hospital is that of the German commu- nity of Naples (Deutsches Krankenhaus; PL C, 7), Rione Amedeo, Via Pontano, Largo Terracina a Chiaja (1st cl. 10, 2nd cl. 6 fr. per day; su- perintendent, Dr. Malbranc).

Baths. Warm : "Bains du Chiatamone, also Russian and Turkish baths ; others at Vico Belle Donne a Chiaja 12 and Loggia Berio alia Speran- zella, both belonging to a Swiss proprietor. — Sea-Bathing in summer. The most frequented place is beyond the Villa Nazionale, but as the drains of the town empty themselves in the vicinity, the water is anything but clean. A better place is at the Posilipo near the Villa Monplaisir, immediately beyond the precincts of the city ; large cabinet I1/2 fr. with towels, small cabinet 60 c. ; fee 5 c.

Lieux d'Aisance (Latrine Pubbliche ; 10 c.) at the Villa, by the egress towards the sea, near the large fountain ; also by the promontory of S. Lucia , to which a flight of steps descends , to the left ; at the harbour, near the Immacolatella; in the Toledo, to the left of the Museum; at the Reclusorio ; in the Piazza del Plebiscito, to the left of the colonnades; on the stairs ascending to the Ponte di Chiaja.

Post and Telegraph Office in the Palazzo Gravina (PI. F, 5 ; p. 43), Strada Montoliveto. Branch Offices in the Piazza S. Caterina a Chiaja, the railway-station, Str. del Duomo 58, at the Immacolatella on the quay (PI. G, 5), Via Salvator Rosa 287, in the Torretta (PI. B, 7), opposite the Museo Nazionale (p. 55). Letters should be posted at the branch-offices 2 hrs. , and at the general post-office 1 hr. before the departure of the mail- train for which they are intended. — The chief Telegraph Office, on the first floor of the Palazzo Gravina, is open day and night. Branch Offices: Str. S. Giacomo 42. Str. del Duomo 136, Corso Garibaldi 45, nearly opposite the station, and Piazza Garofalo a Chiaja 12.

English Church (Christ Church), in the Strada S. Pasquale, leading out of the Riviera di Chiaja, on the site presented to the English residents

Shops. NAPLES. 3. Route. 25

by Garibaldi when dictator in 1860; service on Sun. at 11 a.m. and 3. 15. p.m. ; on Wed., Frid., and festivals at 11 a.m. ; chaplain, Rev. H. T. Barff, yilla Scoppa, Parco Grifeo, Corso Vitt. Emanuele. — Presbyterian Church (Chiesa Scozzese), Vico Cappella Vecchia 2 ; service on Sun. at 11 a. m. and 3.30 p. m., on Wed. at 3 p. m. (Rev. T. Johnstone Irving). — Wes- leyan Methodist Church, Vico S. Anna di Palazzo; English service at 11 (Rev. T. W. S. Jones). — Baptist Church, Strada Foria 175 (Rev. R. Walker; service at 11). — Floating Bethel ('Victoria''), in the harbour; service at 6.30. — Italian Service of the Waldensian Church, S. Tommaso d'Aquino, Vico Portaria a Toledo, on Sun. at 11 a.m. and 7 p.m. — French and German Protestant Church , Strada Carlo Poerio , Piazza dei Martiri (PI. D, 6).

The Evangelical Schools for Italian children (supported by the Evan- gelical Aid Committee>, in the building connected with the Presbyterian Church (see above) and at the Waldensian Church (see above) , may be visited on Monday forenoons , 9-12. — A visit to the Kindergarten School in the Ex-Collegio Medico, Largo S. Aniello, may also be found interesting.

d. Shops.

Coral, tortoise-shell, and lava ornaments may be mentioned as spe- cialities of Naples. Copies of ancient bronzes, Etruscan vases, etc., are also well executed here. Bargaining is absolutely necessary in order to prevent extortion. If a number of different articles are bought in one shop, a round sum should be offered for the lot, 25-30 per cent below the aggregate of the single prices. Those who know something of the language will of course buy to the best advantage. The buyer should be careful to maintain a polite and unexcited demeanour.

Antique Bronzes. Copies may be obtained from Gen. Chiurazzi, Gal- leria Principe di Napoli No. 6 (studio in the Albergo dei Poveri); and in the photograph- shops of Sommer, Amodio , etc. (Narcissus 100-150 fr. ; Dancing Faun 130-160 fr.). The bronzes executed by Sabatino de Angelis, Strada Nuova di Capodimonte, are said to be especially good; specimens may be bought in the Galleria Principe di Napoli (p. 41) , near the Cafe Santangelo. — The green bronzes are cheaper than the copper-coloured.

Antiquities. Scognamiglio , Piazza dei Martiri 54; Barone , Str. Tri- nita, Maggiore 6, second floor, nearly opposite S. Chiara; 67. Varelli, Gal- leria Umberto I., No. 8 (p. 36).

Booksellers. Furchheim, English and German Bookseller, Piazza dei Martiri 59, English and foreign books, newspapers, photographs, etc. ; Delken d- Rocholl, Piazza del Plebiscito; R. Marghieri, Galleria Umberto I., No. 77.

Bookbinder, Bianconcini, Toledo 149; Cadamartori, Monte di Dio 77.

Bronzes, see Antique Bronzes.

Chemists, see p. 24.

Coral and Lava, Cameos, Gold Ornaments. •Achille Squadrilli, Largo Vittoria, opposite the entrance to the Villa Nazionale, an old-established house with a large assortment and fixed prices (5 per cent discount allow- ed). "Casalta, Piazza dei Martiri 60, gold ornaments after Pompeian models ; Rocco Morabito , Piazza dei Martiri 32 ; Merlino , Strada del GigantelS; M. Pisdone, Riviera diChiaja271; N. Piscione, Str. Calabritto 35; Giacinto Melillo, Riviera di Chiaja 286; De Caro, S. Lucia 70. — Cameos : Stella, Str. Pace 9 (portraits in lava, coral, etc.). — The so-called lava-ornaments are manufactured of a kind of calcareous tufa, also found on Mount Vesuvius, having been probably thrown up by former erup- tions, and presenting various tints of grey, brown, greenish, and reddish colours.

Haberdashers & Hosiers. Ville de Londres, Strada Chiaja 198.

Hairdresser, see Perfumer.

Hatters. Best shops in the Toledo and Strada Chiaja.

Marbles of Vitclano. These beautiful coloured marbles , from the quarries which furnished the adornments of the grand staircase at Caserta (p. 9), may be seen at Piazza Cavour 54, near the Museum.

26 Route 3. NAPLES. Theatres.

Millinery. Gi/lteridge & Co., Toledo 192 and Salita Museo 92-94; Qoudstikker & Fits , Toledo , Galleria Umberto I. •, Shilton & Co. , Strada S. Brigida; Magazzini Generali Italiani (Mele <t Co.), Via del Municipio.

Music, see Pianos.

Opticians. Heinemann, Toledo 251; Taylor, Chiaja4; Angelo Ochs, To- ledo 314; Schnabel, Toledo 231; Talbot, Chiaja 215.

Peefumeks. Zempt , Galleria Principe di Napoli (p. 41) ; Aubry, Strada Chiaja 255; Barca, Toledo, Galleria Umberto I.; Picarelli, Stajano, Via Calabritto, Nos. 33 and 4, are both for ladies.

Photographs. Furchheim (p. 25); Sommer, Largo Vittoria; Scala, S. Lucia 73; Amodio, Via Vittoria 17; all of these also sell bronzes, terra- cottas, etc.; Achille Mauri, Toledo 256; Giac. Brogi of Florence, Strada Chiatamone 19bis.

Pianos (also for hire). G. Helzel, Strada di Chiaja 138; Scognamillo, Piazza Martiri, Palazzo Calabritto. — Music : Societa Musicale Napoletana (Ger- man manager), Strada di Chiaja 226; Cottrau, Chiaja 73; Ricordi, Galleria Umberto I. (p. 36). — Music Masters, very numerous; addresses obtained at the music-shops.

Shoemakers. Baldelli, Strada di Chiaja 240; De Notaris, Str. di Chiaja 189; Calzoleria Reale di M. Forte, Toledo 259, Via S. Carlo, Galleria Umberto I. ; Ferro, Piazza S. Ferdinando 49.

Stationers. Richter (lithographer), Colonnade di S. Francesco di Paola 10-12 and Toledo 309 ; Lattes, Via S. Giuseppe 25 and Strada di Chiaja 81 ; Tipaldi, Str. Montoliveto 51 (artists' requisites); Furchheim (p. 25).

Straw -Plaiting from Ischia, where this industry has been intro- duced since the earthquake of 1883: Lavoro e Carita, Chiaja 84.

Tailors. Lennon & Murray (English), Str. Calabritto 2; Kieper, Str. Montoliveto 61 ; both good but expensive. Ready-made clothes at Fra- telli Bocconi, Toledo 343.

Tortoise Shell. JSguadrilli, Piazza Vittoria (see p. 25); L. Labriola, Str. Chiatamone 23bis; M. Labriola, Fratelli Labriola, Rocco Morabito (see p. 25), Tagliaferri, all in the Via Calabritto.

Umbrellas and Fans. Gilardini, Toledo 335; De Martina, Strada di Chiaja 210.

Vases, Majolica, Terracottas, and Statuettes (of Neapolitan fig- ures, very characteristic): Industria Ceramica Napoletana, Via Chiaja 5; Cacciapuoli, Via Chiaja 84; Ginori, No. 31 in the continuation of the Strada S. Brigida; Scala, S. Lucia 73; Mollica, Strada del Gigante 17. Also at several of the photograph-shops (see above).

Watchmakers. Gutwenger, Str. S. Caterina a Chiaja 66; Wyss, Str. S. Brigida 47; Lista, Str. S. Brigida 7.

Wood Carvings from Sorrento: Gargiulo (p. 148), Via Calabritto 5.

Goods Agents. E. G. Vickers & Co., Via Vittoria 19; Grimaldi, S. Brigida 15; in the last two railway and steamboat-tickets are also issued.

e. Theatres, Street Scenes, Religious and National Festivals. Theatres (comp. p. xxii). The -Teatro S. Carlo (PI. F, 6 ; p. 36), one of the largest theatres in Europe, contains six tiers of boxes, 32 in each. Operas and ballet only. Parterre 6 fr. (fauteuil or poltrona 12 fr.) ; boxes , 1st tier 55 fr., 2nd tier 65 fr., 3rd 40 fr., and so on. — Teatro del Fondo (or Mercadante), in the Piazza del Municipio , closed at present. — Tea- tro Nuovo, in the Vico del Teatro Nuovo, a side-street of the Toledo. Comic opera. — Teatro Bellini, Strada Bellini (PI. F, 4), entrance by the Via Conte di Ruvo. Dramas and operas. Parterre 2 fr.; boxes 6, 10, 14 fr., etc. — Teatro Rossini, Strada fuori Porta Medina. Comedies and operas. — Teatro Sannazaro, Str. di Chiaja. Dramas and comedies; also pieces in dialect. Parterre 3 fr. — Teatro Politeama (PI. F, 7), Strada Monte di Dio. Musical entertainments, operettas, circus. — Teatro Fiorentini (PI. E, F. 5), in the street of that name. Dramas. Parterre 1 fr. 20 c, fau- teuil 2 fr. 70 c, boxes, 1st tier 11 fr. , 2nd tier 12 fr., etc. — Teatro Fenice (PI. E, F, 6), Piazza del Municipio; Teatro K. Carlino, Piazza del Porto , at the end of the Str. del Castello ; Teatro Petrella, Str. Flavia Gioia. At these' farces and dialect pieces. — The Salone Margherita,

Street Scenes. NAPLES. 3. Route. 27

Galleria Umberto I., is a kind of cafe chantant or music-hall.

The visitor may become acquainted at two Popular Theatres in the Strada Foria (PI. G, 2) with 'Pulcinella', the 'Punch and Judy1 of the Neapolitans, to whom the spectacle is an unfailing source of amusement. These performances are said to derive their origin from the ancient Oscan comedy of Atella. Those who have some knowledge of the Neapolitan dialect will find them not beneath their notice. Acerra (p. 10) is said to be the original home of Pulcinella. At Christmas and Easter curious reli- gious plays are performed in these theatres. — The numerous Marionette Theatres , in the Strada Foria and on the Marinella , with their blood- thirsty plays of melodramatic chivalry, are also characteristic.

Street Scenes. — The life of the people in Naples is carried on with greater freedom and more careless indifference to publicity than in any other town in Europe. From morning till night the streets resound with the cries of the vendors of edibles and other articles. Strangers especially are usually besieged by swarms of hawkers, pushing their wares, and all eager and able to take full advantage of the inexperience of their victims. The most medley throng is seen in the Toledo (p. 40), especially towards evening and after the lamps are lit. At fixed hours the importunate tribe of Oiornalisti or newsvendors makes itself heard , and late in the evening appear the lanterns of the Trovatori , hunting for cigar-ends and similar unconsidered trifles. The Strada del Castello or di Porto (PI. F,5), opposite the Castello Nuovo (p. 37), is another centre of popular life. A double row of awnings stretches in front of the houses, and itinerant cooks set up their stoves and drive a brisk trade in fish, meat, or maccaroni, while in the Calata di S. Marco (to the left) other dealers tempt the crowd with fragments from the trattorie or trays of carefully assorted cigar-ends. The narrow side-streets between the^Mercato (p. 39) and the Mercato del Pendino (PI. G, 4), especially in the forenoon, also afford most character- istic studies of the humbler city life. Every Monday and Friday morning the streets in the neighbourhood of the Porta Nolana (PI. H, 4) break out in a curious and animated rag-fair, where all kinds of old clothes change hands. The vicinity of the Porta Capuana (PI. H, 3) is another centre of variegated life and bustle. This is a haunt of the Public Readers, who are also to be regularly seen about 4 p.m. at the Villa del Popolo (p. 39), opposite the Castello del Carmine; Quack Doctors extol their nos- trums in interminable harangues, which they punctuate by drawing teeth ; and not seldom Funeral Processions pass, escorted (as at Rome, Flor- ence, etc.) by the fantastically disguised members of the brotherhood to which the deceased has belonged. The gorgeous coffins, however, which appear in the processions, are usually empty, the corpse having as a rule been previously conveyed to the cemetery'. During the weeks before Christmas hundreds of so-called Zampognari perambulate the streets, playing their bag-pipes and flutes before the shrines of the Madonna, but all disappearing before Christmas Day. — The Corso, mentioned at p. 33, takes place in the afternoon in winter, and in the evening in summer, in the Via Caracciolo, near the Villa Nazionale. — The numerous restaurants and eating-houses on the Posilipo (p. 85), at Fuorigrotta (p. 92), etc., are filled every fine Sunday afternoon with gay crowds , amusing themselves with songs and careless merriment. — The herds of goats which are driven into the town every morning and evening will also attract the stranger's interest. The animals enter the houses and ascend even to the highest story to be milked. Cows are also driven through the streets at the same hours, and are milked by the herdsmen at the doors of the houses. These animals do not add to the cleanliness of the city.

Shoe-blacks ('lustring or 'lustrascarpe'), whose knocking is intended to attract passers-by, 10 c.

Matches. A box of vestas (cerinl , 5 c.) is a desirable acquisition , as matches are never provided at the hotels.

Vendors of Iced Water (acquaiuoli) in summer are usually provided with two large tubs filled with snow, in which the water is cooled, and a supply of lemons, etc. (2-10 c). The excellent Serino water (p. 81),

28 Route 3. NAPLES. Festivals.

however, is to be preferred to these beverages, the water in which is of unknown origin. — There are also several mineral springs in the town, containing sulphur, iron, and carbonic acid gas ; the best known are at S. Lucia and in the Str. Chiatamone, near the Hotel Royal des Etrangers. The water has a slightly medicinal effect, but the smell is disagreeable (5 c. per glass).

Newspapers (5 c. each). The most important are: the Corriere di JVapoli, the Tribuna (a Roman paper circulating extensively in Naples), and the Mattino, published in the morning ; the Roma, issued about 2 p.m.; and the evening-papers , the Pvngolo and the Paese. All these are sold in the streets, in the Galleria Vmberto I., etc. — The Naples Bcha (Jour- nal des Etrangers), published weekly (Sun. ; 10 c-) contains the visitors' list and various information of use to strangers. — Foreign newspapers may be seen in the larger hotels and cafes and bought at Furchheim's (p. 25).

The Religious and National Festivals have lost much of their former significance, but the more important are still extremely interesting. The Festival of the Vekgine di Piedigrotta (p. 86 ; Sept. 7-8th), celebrated until 1859 with great magnificence in memory of the victory of Charles III. over the Austrians at Velletri in 1735, was formerly the greatest of all, but has now become chiefly a night-festival, celebrated, sometimes in an uproarious manner, in and around the Grotta di Posilipo (p. 86). — A more interesting sight is now presented on Whitmonday by the Return of the Pilgrims from the shrine of the Madonna di Monte Vergine near Avellino (p. 175). The Neapolitan pilgrims (often 20 000 in number) return to the town via Nola in a gay procession which vies with those of the Bacchanalians of old, and is welcomed by crowds which take up position about 5 p.m. in the streets skirting the harbour. On the following day the pilgrims proceed to celebrate the festival of the Madonna dell' Aeco, 6 M. from Naples, at the foot of Monte Somma, from which they again return in pro- cession in the most exuberant spirits. — On Maundy Thursday until late at night, and on Good Friday morning, the Toledo is thronged with ped- estrians taking part in a sort of ceremonial promenade, known as Lo Strusoio, from the rustling of the silk garments. The shops are all bril- liantly dressed and lighted, and no carriages are allowed to enter the street. — On Ascension Day the festival of the Madonna of the baths of Scafati (p. 160) takes place near Pompeii. — On 15th Aug. is celebrated the festival of Capodimonte. — On the last Sunday in August the Fishermen's Festival at S. Lucia (p. 34) presents many interesting scenes. — The so-called Ottobrate (excursions with gaily decorated horses and carriages) take place every Sun. and Thurs. in October. — The Horse Races, which take place on the Tuesday and Thursday after Easter, in the Campo di Marte, are practically another great popular festival, at which the Neapolitan nobility appear in handsome four-horse drags and coaches. — An enormous crowd assembles in the cemeteries on 2nd Nov. (All Souls' Day). — Other festi- vities of a more strictly ecclesiastical character are celebrated at Christ- mas, Easter, on Ascension Day, on the festivals of Corpus Christi (Fete de Dieu), St. Anthony, and above all on that of St. Januarius in May, Sep- tember, and December. The Good Friday procession at Sorrento (p. 148) and the procession on Corpus Christi Day at Torre del Greco (p. 110) are particularly worth seeing.

The Festival of the Constitution (la Festa dello Statuto), of more recent origin , is celebrated throughout Italy on the first Sunday of June. In the forenoon military parade in the Largo Vittoria at the Villa Nazio- nale ; in the evening illumination of public buildings. The King's Birth- day (March 14th) is also celebrated by a military parade at the Villa Nazionale.

The Carnival, which, however, does not take place every year, is seen to best advantage in the Toledo and near the Royal Palace. On the after- noon of Ash Wednesday merry entertainments take place in the trattorie at Posilipo and the other environs.

The drawing of the Tombola or Lotto, which takes place every Sat. at 4 p.m., in the Via Mezzncannone (PI. F, 4, 5; p. 47), always attracts a large concourse of spectators.

Disposition of Time. NAPLES. 3. Route. 29

f. Duration of Stay and Disposition of Time. Guides.

With respect to the duration of the visitor's stay it is difficult to offer a suggestion; the taste and inclination of the individual must here more than almost anywhere else decide the question. Suffice it to ob- serve that within a period of ten days all the most interesting points may he visited, whilst many months may be delightfully spent in explor- ing the incomparable beauties of the environs. Where time is limited, it should be devoted almost exclusively to the latter, as the town con- tains few objects of interest, with the exception of the Villa Nazionale, the Aquarium, the Museum, the Triumphal Arch in the Castel Novo, the Porta Capuana, and one or two of the churches, besides a walk by the Harbour and the view from the belfry of S. Martino. Choice of season, see p. xxiv.

The Chief Sights' of the city may be seen hastily in 3-4 days. The mornings may be devoted to the churches, the middle of the day to the Museum, and the afternoons to walks or drives in the neighbourhood. The evening may then be spent at the Villa Nazionale or in the theatre. The following are specially worthy of mention: —

""Museo Nazionale (p. 55), daily 9-3 o'clock, in winter 10-4, admission 1 fr., Sundays until 1 p.m. gratis.

Museo Filangieri (Pal. Cuomo ; p. 53), Tues. & Sat. 10.30-2 free ; other times 'J2-1 fr.

Museum and Church of S. Martino (p. 83), with *View, 10-4, admission 1 fr., Sun. 9-2 free.

"Aquarium (p. 33), adm. daily 2 fr., in July and August 1 fr., on Sun- day and holiday afternoons half-price ; season-tickets at the office.

Catacombs (p. 80) daily, admission 1 fr.

Palaces: Reale (p. 35), Capodimonte (p. 81).

Churches: '"Cathedral, best seen about noon (p. 51); "Sta. Chiara (p. 44) ; 'S. Domenico, 7-11 a.m. (p. 45); 'Monte Oliveto (p. 43); "L'lncoronata, early in the morning (p. 42) ; Cloisters of S. Severino (p. 47) ; S. Gio- vanni (p. 50); S. Maria del Carmine (p. 39); S. Lorenzo (p. 54); S. Paolo Maggiore (p. 54).

Views: "Camaldoli (p. 90), "Strada Nuova di Posilipo (p. 85), "Via Tasso (p. 85). — "S. Martino (p. 83). — "Villa Nazionale, in the afternoon or (in summer) evening (p. 32).

Most of the Excursions in the Environs (RE. 4-11) may be made from Naples in one day, but both time and money may often be econo- mised if the traveller combines several of them so as to avoid the ne- cessity of returning to Naples every evening. Those who intend to explore the surrounding scenery should therefore give np their rooms at Naples, but leave behind them all superfluous luggage, in order that they may start on their tour unfettered. In making these excursions it is generally advantageous to travel as a member of a party of 3-4 per- sons, by whom carriage and boat fares, fees, and other expenses are shared. In this case too more favourable terms may be obtained at hotels (comp. p. xix).

Small Change is even more frequently required in the environs of Naples than in the city itself. Contributions are levied on the traveller on every possible occasion, whether for admission to a point of view, or for leave to cross a field, or for services rendered. An abundant supply of small silver and copper should therefore be procured at a money- changer's (p. 23) before starting.

A week or a fortnight may be very pleasantly spent as follows : —

Pozzuoli, Baiae, Capo Miseno (R. 4) I-IV2 day-

Procida and Ischia (R. 5) IV2 n

Ascent of Mt. Vesuvius (R. 7), Herculaneum (p. 109). 1 ,,

Pompeii (R. 8) 1/i-l ,,

Castellanimare, Sorrento, Capri (R. 9) 2-3 ,,

Cava, Paestum, Salerno, Amalfi (R. 10) 3-4 „

Caserta and Capua (pp. 7-10) 1 ,,

C/2-13 days.

30 Route 3. NAPLES. History.

A visit to the islands, especially those of Procida and Ischia, should not be undertaken in winter unless the weather he calm and settled.

Gommissionnaires charge 6 fr. a day, or for a single walk 1 fr. ; hut travellers who intend making purchases had better dispense with their ser- vices. Some of the best guides are as a rule attached to the hotels. They organise also excursions in the environs, e. g. to Amalfl, Ravello, ana Psestum, in two days (50 fr. each person, including quarters for the night). Similar excursions are arranged by the well-known firm of Thos. Cook <fc Son (agent, Jl. Fserber, a Swiss; office in the Piazza dei Martiri52, PI. D, E, 7 ; p. 40), and are now much in vogue, especially among the English tourists. Enquiries as to fares, etc., should be made at the office. The traveller necessarily surrenders much of his independence in these excursions. Messrs. Cook are the proprietors of the Ferrovia Funicolare del Vesuvio (p. 112).

' Vedi Napoli e pox mori I '

Naples (N. lat. 40° 51') , the capital of the former kingdom of Naples, now of a province, the seat of a university, of anarch- bishop, and of the commander-in-chief of the 10th Italian army- corps, with 527,600 inhab. and 9400 men garrison, is the most populous town in Italy, and occupies one of the most beautiful situat- ions in the world, at the foot and on the slope of several hills rising in an amphitheatre on the \V. side of the Bay of Naples. The magni- ficent bay has from the most ancient times been the object of enthus- iastic admiration, and it is annually visited by thousands of strangers in quest of enjoyment or health. In historical and artistic interest this part of the Italian peninsula is singularly deficient. The dearth of handsome buildings and indigenous works of art creates a void, for which Herculaneum and Pompeii with their matchless treasures of antiquity alone in some measure compensate. Nature, it would appear , has so bountifully lavished her gifts on this favoured spot, that the energy and strength of the most powerful nations have invariably succumbed to its alluring influence. Greeks, Oscans, Romans, Goths, Byzantines, Normans, Germans, and Spa- niards have in succession been masters of the place ; yet it has rarely attained even a transient reputation in the annals of politics, art, or literature.

The History of theCityof Naples extends back to a very remote age. The origin and name of the city are Greek. About the year B.C. 1056 jEolians from Chalcis in Euboea founded the colony of Kyme, Lat. Cumae, on a rocky eminence in the bay of Puteoli, which soon became a powerful and pros- perous commercial town. From Curnee the colony of Phaleron or Parthe- nope (named after the tomb of a Siren of that name, Plin. H. N. iii. 5) appears to have emanated at a very early period, and to have been at va- rious times re-inforced by immigrants from Greece, who founded the Nea- polis (or new city), whilst Parthenope, the portion erected by the original colonists, was named Palaeopolis (old city). The latter was probably situated on the Pizzofaleone (p. 34), whereas the site of Neapolis is bounded towards the E. by the present Castel Capuano (PI. G, 3; p. 49), to the N. by the Strada Orticello (PI. F, G, 3), to the W. by the Strada S. Sebastiano (PI. F, 4), and to the S. by the declivity towards the present harbour, between S. Gio- vanni Maggiore (PI. F, 5) and S. Maria del Carmine (PI. H, 4). This distinction was maintained till the conquest of Palaeopolis by the Romans, B.C. 326. After that period Naples remained faithful to Rome, both in the wars against Pyrrhus and against Hannibal, and owing to the beauty of its situation it soon became a favourite residence of the Roman magnates. Lu-

Topography. NAPLES. 3. Route. 31

cullus possessed gardens here on the Posilipo and the hill of Pizzofalcone, where, in A. D. 476, Romulus Augustulus, the last feeble monarch of the Western Empire, breathed his last. Augustus frequently resided at Naples, and Virgil composed some of his most beautiful poetry here. The emperors Tiberius, Claudius, Nero, Titus, and Hadrian were among the chief bene- factors of the city, which continued to enjoy its municipal freedom and its Greek constitution. It suffered fearfully during the wars of the bar- barian immigration. In 536 it was taken by storm by Belisarius, and again in 543 by the Goths under Totilas. The city soon threw off the Byzantine supremacy, and under its doge or 'duca1 maintained its inde- pendence against the Lombard princes, until after a long siege in 1130 it at length succumbed to the Normans under Roger. Frederick II. founded the university (1224), but seldom made Naples his residence. It was con- stituted the capital of the kingdom by Charles I. of Anjou (1265-85) and was greatly extended by subsequent princes, especially by Ferdinand I. of Aragon (1458-94), the viceroy Don Pedro de Toledo (1532-53), and Charles III. of Bourbon (1748-59). — Since the annexation of Naples to the kingdom of Italy the population has remained almost stationary (1860: 517,000). The city can boast of almost no Grfeco-Roman antiquities (p. 53), but (besides the churches) it possesses a fragment of the city-wall, five forts (Castello S. Elmo , dell' Ovo, Nuovo, del Carmine, Capuano), and four gates (Porta del Carmine, Alba, Nolana, and Capuana) of mediaeval con- struction.

The City is divided into two unequal parts by the heights of Oapodimonte, S. Elmo, and Pizzofalcone , which terminate in the narrow ridge surmounted by the Castello dell' Ovo. To the S. E. of Capodimonte, and eastwards as far as the Sebeto, lies the greater and most ancient part of Naples, now the business quarter, inter- sected from N. to S. by the Toledo (now Via di Roma), the main street. The architecture of this part of Naples , the narrow dingy streets, the high and narrow houses with balconies in front of every window , are far from attractive. The population here is densely crowded, and it is now the anxious endeavour of the authorities to remedy the consequent physical and social evils (to which the ter- rible cholera epidemic of 1884 again bore sad witness) , by the construction of new streets ('sventramento', i.e. cutting up) and commodious dwellings. A hundred million francs are to be devoted to this purpose by the town and the state in equal proportions. The construction of spacious and airy quarters has meanwhile gone in advance of the removal of the narrow and unhealthy streets. — The western and smaller quarter of the city, in which nearly all the principal hotels are situated, extends westward from the Pizzo- falcone along the coast and the mountain-slopes. An entirely new quarter is being built on the top of the hill, but, like the other new quarters, is of no interest to the tourist.

The length of Naples from the Mergellina (p. 86) to the bar- racks at the mouth of the Sebeto is 3 M., the breadth from Ca- podimonte to the Castel dell' Ovo 2 M. The squares are still ge- nerally called Larghi , though sometimes Piazze ; the principal streets are called Strade, the cross-streets Vichi ; the narrow lanes ascending the hills, and generally inaccessible to carriages, Calate or Salite , or when so precipitous as to require steps, Gradoni or Rampe. The streets are all well paved, except as regards accom-

32 Route 3. NAPLES. 1 '. Side of the City

modation for foot-passengers. In 1885 a large aqueduct, iheAcqua di Serino, was opened, supplying the city with water from the neigh- bourhood of Avellino (see pp. 81, 175).

Naples is one of the noisiest cities in Europe. The clatter of wheels at all hours of the day and night , the cracking of whips, braying of donkeys, and shrill shouting of hawkers , render Naples a most distasteful place, especially to those whose stay is limited. To these annoyances are added the insolent importunities of dri- vers, guides, street-vendors, beggars, etc., who often combine the most cringing manners with the grossest attempts at extortion. Some travellers, especially if there be ladies in the party, will find the constant use of cabs the only sure method of escaping annoy- ance ; but those who can adapt themselves to the manners of the place will find an abundant source of interest in the life and bustle of the streets (comp. p. 27).

Our description of the sights is arranged in topographical order, and is divided as follows : —

I. The Side of the City next the Sea, from the Villa Nazionale (PI. C, D, 7) eastwards, round the Pizzofalcone, by S. Lu- cia, the Piazza del Plebiscito, and the Piazza del Municipio, and along the quay to the S. E. angle of the town (Pl.H, 4). II. The Toledo, with its side-streets, as far as the Museum.

III. The Old Town, to the E. of the Toledo.

IV. The Museum.

V. The Higher Quarters : Capodimonte , Corso Vittorio Ema-

nuele, S. Martino, and the Castel S. Elmo. VI. The Posilipo, and other points in the immediate environs. Camaldoli. The traveller may again be reminded here that, if his time is limited, he had better disregard most of the sights within the town.

I. Side of the City next the Sea. The *Villa Nazionale, generally called La Villa (PI. C,D, 7), is a beautiful pleasure-ground, laid out in 1780, and several times extended since. It is bounded on the side next the sea by the broad Via Caracciolo and on the inland side by the Riviera di Chiaja, and may be regarded as the central point of the strangers' quarter. The grounds are arranged chiefly in the Italian style, and are em- bellished with trees of the most various descriptions, among which many palms have been planted within the last few years. Near the E. entrance is a large Antique Oranite Basin from Psestum, brought from Salerno, and deposited here in 1825 to replace the celebrated group of the Farnese Bull, which was then removed from this spot to the Museum (p. 60). To the left, farther on, is the Aquarium (see p. 33). In the centre of the promenade, the most frequented spot, where the band plays, are a cafe' and a restaurant.

next the sea. NAPLES. 3. Route. 33

Here also rise a statue of the historian Giambattista Vico (d. 1744) and one of P. Colletta, the liberal-minded Neapolitan general, minister-of-war, and historian (1775-1831), and a bust of Errico Alvino, the architect. The gardens also contain small temples in honour of Virgil and Tasso ; a statue of Thalberg, the pianist, who died at Naples in 1871 ; and, on the side next the sea, two hand- some fountains.

The white building in the middle of the Villa contains a large **Aquarium, opened in 1874, and belonging to the 'Zoological Sta- tion'. The aquarium is entered from the E. side (admission, see p. 29; catalogue, 50 c, illustrated, 1 fr.).

The Neapolitan Aquarium contains such an abundant stock of curious marine animals of every description that it is perhaps the most inter- esting establishment of the kind in the world ; and the wonderful variety of animate existence in the Mediterranean gives it a great advantage over aquaria drawing their main supplies from more northern waters. Among the contents are 6-8 varieties of cuttle-fish (the feeding of the large Oc- topus is interesting) , a number of electric rays (which visitors are per- mitted to touch so as to experience the shock from which the fish derives its name), numerous beautifully coloured fish of the Mediterranean, a great many different kinds of living coral, beautiful medusae and crested blubbers, many extraordinary - looking crabs and crayfish, pipe-fish, etc.

The Zoological Station was established by the German naturalist Dr. Dohrn in 1872-74 for the purpose of facilitating a thorough scientific investigation of the animal and vegetable world of the Mediterranean Sea. The greater part of the expense was borne by Dr. Dohrn himself, but the German government contributed 100,000 marks to the building-fund be- sides a large annual subsidy since 1880, and the naturalists of Great Bri- tain presented the institution with a sum of 1000 I. Great Britain , Ger- many, Italy, Holland, Belgium, Switzerland, Austria- Hungary, Russia, Spain, and the United States all pay stipends for the privilege of sending naturalists to make use of the advantages of the institution. The new buildings which have been erected, with assistance from the Italian go- vernment, will permit of an extension of the activity of the institution.

The resident staff of the establishment consists of Dr. Dohrn himself, eight or ten permanent naturalists, and upwards of twenty assistants of various kinds. A small steam-yacht, a steam-launch, and a flotilla of sailing and rowing-boats are maintained for dredging, and the other equipments are also on a scale of great completeness. About 600 foreign naturalists have already prosecuted their investigations here. The institution publishes extensive periodical proceedings, sends microscopic and other preparations to all the leading museums and laboratories in Europe, and in various ways has fairly asserted itself as the central point for the study of marine biology. Similar stations have been founded in all parts of the world, but none can compare in size or importance with the original institution at Naples. There are now zoological stations at Plymouth, Liverpool, Edin- burgh, Sebastopol, Trieste, Villafranca, Cette, Marseilles, Banyuls, Arca- chon, Roscoff, Heligoland, on the Dutch coast, in Sweden, Norway, Syd- ney, two in North America, and one in Japan.

At the W. end of the Villa is the Piazza Vmberto (Pl.B, 7), in which the handsome Orand Hotel (p. 19) is conspicuous. Farther on is the Mergellina (p. 86).

The Villa is rarely deserted by promenadeTS at any hour ; but the busiest and gayest scenes occur when the daily concerts (gratis) take place: viz. in the colder season 2-4, in summer 9-11. The Via Caracciolo is then the corso of the fashionable world. The

Baedeker. Italy III. 11th Edition. 3

34 Route 3. NAPLES. /. Side of the City

crowd reaches its height towards evening on Sundays and holidays, when the roads are thronged with carriages and the gardens alive with foot-passengers.

To the E. of the Villa extends the Largo della Vittokia (PI. D, 7), whence the Via Calabritto runs N. to the Piazza de' Martiri (see p. 40). The Via Partenope (PI. E, 7), a handsome quay, ex- tends hence towards the E. along the coast, parallel to the Strada Chiatamone, which runs round the base of the Fizzofalcone, a spur of the hill of S. Elmo, entirely covered with buildings and walls.

From the S. end of the Pizzofalcone run out an embankment and bridge, connecting it with a small rocky island, the Megaris of Pliny. On this island rises the Castello dell' Ovo , which in its present form dates from the time of the viceroy Don Pedro de To- ledo (1532-53). The name is due to its oval shape.

William I. began to erect the fort in 1154, but the completion of his design fell to Frederick II., who used the edifice as a place of safety for his treasures. Charles I. enlarged the castle and frequently resided there. Robert the Wise (1309) caused the chapel to be adorned with frescoes by Giotto, and superintended the work in person, but of these no trace is left. Here Charles III. of Durazzo (1381) kept Queen Johanna I. prisoner, and was himself besieged. In 1495 Charles VIII. of France captured the castle, and under Ferdinand II. it was dismantled. It is now chiefly used as a prison. Visitors are usually admitted without challenge by the sen- tries, but the interior is of little interest. The new buildings on the N.E, side were erected to accommodate the fishermen and sailors whose pre- vious dwellings were demolished to make room for the new quays.

The landing-place of th3 steamer to Capri (p. 152) is at the Castel delF Ovo.

Farther on we reach the Strada di S. Ltjcia (PI. E, F, 7), once a dirty street, but since 1846 enlarged and converted into a broad and pleasant quay, now being much widened towards the sea. Scenes of Neapolitan life may be witnessed here in perfection. The female members of the community are seen working in the open air, going through their toilette, and performing various unpleasing acts of attention to their children , regardless of the public gaze. The children often run about quite naked. On the side next the sea the oyster-stalls are established , where sea-urchins , crabs , and other delicacies , so expressively called frutti di mare by the Nea- politans, are also sold (comp. Introd., p. xxvii). The terrace below, which is reached by a flight of steps, is adorned with a fountain with figures by Domenico d'Auria and Giovanni da Nola. On sum- mer-evenings, especially on Sundays, this spot is densely crowded, and presents a highly characteristic picture of Neapolitan life. There is also a favourite sulphureous spring here (p. 28).

At the N. end of S. Lucia is a fountain, whence we ascend to the left by the Strada del Gigantk , a street named after an ancient colossal statue of Jupiter once placed here. To the right, farther on , we look down on the coal-magazines of the arsenal (p. 38). In a straight' direction we observe Fort 8. Elmo rising above the town, and we soon reach the —

next the sea. NAPLES. 3. Route. 35

Piazza del Plbbiscito (PI. E, 6), which is embellished with a large fountain. A band sometimes plays here in summer , in the evening. On the right is the Royal Palace, opposite to us is the Prefettura di Napoli, with shops in part of the ground-floor; on the "W. side, which forms a semicircle, is the church of S. Fran- cesco with its dome and arcades ; on the fourth side is the Com- mandant's Residence, formerly the palace of the prince of Salerno. — In front of the church of S. Francesco are two Equestrian Sta- tues of Neapolitan kings, both in Roman attire : on the right Charles III., on the left Ferdinand I. of Bourbon; the two horses and the statue of Charles are by Canova, that of Ferdinand, by Call.

The handsome church of S. Francesco di Paola, an imitation of the Pantheon at Rome, was constructed by Ferdinand I. from de- signs by P. Bianchi in 1817-31. The Ionic vestibule is supported by six columns and two buttresses.

The Interior (open till about noon) contains thirty Corinthian columns of marble from Mondragone , which support the dome. The high -altar, transferred hither from the church of the Apostles, is entirely inlaid with jasper and lapis lazuli ; the two pillars at the sides are of rare Egyptian breccia from S. Severino. The gallery above is for the use of the royal family. The statues and pictures are by modern masters. To the left of the entrance : St. Athanasius by Angelo Salaro; Death of Joseph, Camillo Ouerra of Naples; St. Augustine, a statue by Tommaso Arnaud of Naples ; Madonna della Con- cezione, Casparo Landi; St. Mark, a statue by Fabris of Venice; St. Nicho- las, Natale Carta of Sicily ; St. John, a statue by Tenerani. In the choir : St. Francis di Paola resuscitating a youth, Camuccini ; St. Matthew, a statue by Finelli; Last Communion of St. Ferdinand of Castile, Pietro Benvenuti of Florence; St. Luke, a statue by Antonio Call of Sicily; St. Ambrose, by Tito Angelini of Naples; Death of St. Andrea da Avellino , Tommaso de Vivo; St. Chrysostom, a statue by Gennaro Call.

The Palazzo Reale (PL E, F, 6), or royal palace, designed by the Roman Domenico Fontana, was begun in 1600 under the viceroy Count de Lemos , burned down in 1837, and restored between that year and 1841. The facade, 185yds. ft. in length, exhibits in its three stories the Doric and Ionic styles combined ; most of the arches of the basement, however, are built up for the sake of increasing the strength of the building. The eight marble statues in the niches on the facade (executed 1885-88) represent the Neapolitan dynasties of the last eight hundred years : from left to right, beginning at the Piazza S. Ferdinando , Roger of Nor- mandy, Frederick II. of Hohenstaufen , Charles I. of Anjou, Al- phonso I., Charles V.. Charles III. (Bourbon), Joachim Murat, and Victor Emmanuel.

Interior (open on Snn. and Thurs.). Visitors apply to the porter (50 a), who conducts them to the office of the Intendant in the palace (daily 10-12). Here they receive a permesso for six persons, which is available also for the palaces of Capodimonte, Caserta, and the park of Astroni, and must be shown at each place to the porter. Attendant's fee 1 fr.

The visitor is first conducted to the "Garden Terrace, which affords a fine view of the harbour and the arsenal immediately below. In the centre is a handsome marble table. — The magnificent "Grand Staircase, constructed entirely of white marble , and adorned with reliefs and sta- tues, dates from 1651. — On the side towards the piazza are situated a

3*

36 Route 3. NAPLES. I. Side of the City

small Theatre and a superb Dining Room. — Beyond these is the "Throne Room, gorgeously furnished with crimson velvet embroidered with gold, the embroidery having been executed at the extensive poor-house in 1818. Above are gilded figures in relief, representing the different provinces of the kingdom. — The rooms also contain large porcelain vases from Sevres and Meissen (Dresden china) ; an antique bust of Bacchus and a small bust of Hercules, both found at Herculaneum; a bust of Marcus Aurelius; tapestry; and lastly a number of pictures. Among the last are: Titian, Pier Luigi Farnese (1547); Schidone, Carita; Lod. Carracci, John the Bap- tist; Ouercino, St. Joseph; M. Caravaggio , Christ in the Temple, Be- trothal of St. Catharine, Orpheus ; L. Giordano, The archangel Gabriel. There are also several works by Netherlandish masters : Quintin Massys (?), Usurer; Van Dyck, Portrait; Vervloet, Cathedral at Palermo, Market in Venice; two good portraits, by unknown masters, etc. The Adoration of the Magi, sometimes ascribed to Jan van Eyck and sometimes to Donzelli, a supposed pupil of Zingaro, was once considered a very important work, but has been treated slightingly by modern criticism. The pictures by modern Italian masters are of no great merit.

On the N. side of the palace, which is connected here by a wing with the Theatre of S. Carlo , is a small garden enclosed by a railing, containing a Statue of Italia, erected in 1864 in commem- oration of the plebiscite of 21st Oct., 1860, which added the kingdom of Naples to the dominions of Victor Emmanuel.

The small piazza which adjoins the Piazza del Plebiscito here is named Ptazza S. Ferdinando (PI. E, 6), after the opposite church. This is the starting-point of several of the chief tramway and omnibus lines (p. 22), and there is also a large cab-stand here. To the left diverge the Strada di Chiaja and the Toledo, the prin- cipal street in Naples (comp. p. 40).

We now turn to the right into the Stbada S. Cabxo, in which, to the left is the S. entrance to the new G-alleria Umberto I., and to the right the principal facade of the Teatro San Carlo.

The *Galleria TJmberto I. (PI. E, F, 6) was built in 1887-90 after the plans of Di Mauro of Rome, and is said to have cost 22 million francs. Its exterior is inferior to the Galleria Vittoiio Emanuele at Milan, as two churches and several private houses have been incorporated in it, but in other respects it rivals the Mi- lan gallery. The shorter nave , to which the main portal in the Strada S. Carlo, adorned with statues and a relief representing the Olympic deities, gives acoess, is 133 yds. long; the longer nave, stretching from the Toledo to the Municipio, is 160 yds. long. Each is 16 yds. wide and 125 ft. high; and at their intersection is an octagon, 40 yds. in diameter, above which rises a dome in glass and iron to the height of 185 ft. Below the dome are angels in copper. The interior is gaily adorned with stucco and gilding, and is lighted at night by electricity. At No. 8 in the gallery (1st floor; left) an ela- borate Presepe (p. 83) has been erected, under the directions of the anti- quarian Cr. Varolii ; it is said to have once belonged to king Charles III. In the octagon is a large Cafe.

The Teatro San Carlo (PI. E, F, 6) was founded by Charles III. in 1737, and erected by the Neapolitan architect Anyelo Ca-

next the sea. NAPLES. 3. Route. 37

rasale from designs by the Sicilian Giovanni Medrano. The in- terior -was destroyed by Are in 1816, but has been restored in harmony with the original plan. It is one of the largest opera- houses in Italy, and many of the celebrated compositions of Ros- sini, Bellini, and Donizetti were performed here for the first time. The chief facade, resting on an arcade, and surmounted by a series of columns , and the side next the Piazza S. Ferdinando are decorated with reliefs. The spaces under the arches are occupied by public writers, ready at a moment's notice to commit to paper the pleading of the lover or the expostulation of the creditor.

Adjoining the theatre is the small garden belonging to the palace, and farther to the right are two Horse-tamers by Baron Olodt of St. Petersburg, presented by the Emp. Nicholas of Russia. Far- ther on, to the right, are the stalls of dealers in coral, etc.

"We next reach the long Piazza del Municipio (PI. F , 6), in which a statue of Victor Emmanuel is about to be erected. To the left is situated the handsome Municipio, or town hall, the Pa- lazzo de' Ministeri under the Bourbons, erected in 1819-25 from designs by Luigi and Stefano Oasse. On the principal entrance are inscribed the names of the Neapolitans who were executed for sedition under the Bourbon regime. In the gateway are the statues of the kings Roger and Frederick II. — From this point a passage leads to the Toledo ; within it, to the right, is the entrance to the Exchange.

Immediately adjoining the Municipio, rises the church of S. Gia- como degli Spagnuoli, erected in 1540 by Don Pedro de Toledo.

Interior. We enter by a door adjacent to the gate of the Municipio and ascend the stairs. To the right of the entrance: "Andrea del Sarto, Holy Family. 3rd Chapel on the left: Gian Bernardo Lama, Descent from the Cross; also pictures by Bernardino Siciliano, Marco da Siena, and others. At the back of the high -altar is the sumptuous Tomb of Don Pedro de Toledo (d. 1553), by Giovanni da Nola, adorned with statues of the cardinal virtues, reliefs of the achievements of the viceroy, and his statue in a kneeling posture, with that of his wife.

The wide Strada Medina begins on the N. side of the Piazza del Municipio. The corner-house , on the left, the Palazzo Sirignano, is usually described as Goethe's residence while at Naples in 1787. Farther on is the Incoronata church (see p. 42).

On the S.E. side of the square rises the Castel Nuovo (PI. F, 6), the outer walls and bastions of which have been removed. This castle was begun in 1283 by Charles I. of Anjou from a design attributed to Giov. da Pisa, and was enlarged by Alphonso I. (1442), Don Pedro de Toledo (1546), and Charles III. (1735). The kings of the houses of Anjou and Arragon, and the Spanish viceroys succes- sively resided here.

The Entrance (free) is on the N. side. Passing the sentry, we turn to the right, then to the left, and reach after a few hundred paces the lofty 'Triumphal Arch by which the castle is entered. It was erected in 1470 to commemorate the entry of Alphonso I. of Aragon (2nd June, 1442), by Pietro di Martina, a Milanese architect (or, according to Vasari, by

38 Route 3. NAPLES. I. Side of the City

Giuliano da Maiano of Florence). This is the finest monument at Naples. It consists of an archway with Corinthian columns on each side, now partly built into the wall, a frieze, and a cornice, above which is an attic with well-executed sculpture representing the entry of Alphonso, by Isaia da Pisa, Paolo Romano, and Silvestro dell' Aquila. Above are statnes of St. Michael, St. Antonius Abbas, and St. Sebastian (half destroyed), below which are the four cardinal virtues in niches. The bronze doors (restored in 1889) are adorned with representations of the victories of Ferdinand I. , by Ouglielmo Monaco. A cannon-ball imbedded in the masonry of the left wing is a reminiscence of the wars of the time of Gonsalvo da Cordova.

In the inner yard (usually closed tu visitors) is the entrance to the church of S. Barbara, or S. Sebastiano, with a Corinthian facade by Oiu- llano da Maiano, and a beautiful Madonna in relief above the door.

On the N. side of the Piazza del Municipio, beside the Teatro del Fondo (PI. F, 6 ; p. 26) is the beginning of a broad new street which runs to the railway-station, and will be finished in 1893.

The piazza is continued to the E. by the Molo Anyioino, a pier 14 yds. in width, originally constructed by Charles of Anjou in 1302. Adjoining are the extensive Harbours (PI. F, G, 6, 5), The Porto Militarb, or government harbour , to the right, shut off by a railing, was begun by Francis I. in 1826 and has recently been enlarged. At its S.W. angle are the Darsena, or old naval harbour, and the Arsenate di Marina, erected in 1577 by the vice- roy Mendoza, with a dockyard, arsenal, etc.

At the angle formed by the Molo rises the Lighthouse {Lanterna; PI. G, 6), originally erected in the 15th cent., but rebuilt in 1843. The ascent is strongly recommended, as it enables the vis- itor to form an accurate idea of the topography of the town (fee 1 fr.). An easy marble staircase of 142 steps ascends to the gallery. — The magazines at the end of the Molo are used as bonded warehouses (Porto franco). The terminus of the goods- railway between the station and the harbour is also here. — The mercantile harbour, or Porto Grande, was constructed in 1302 by Charles II. of Anjou at the same time as the Molo, and enlarged by Charles III. in 1740.

The Strada del Piliero, along which runs the railway just mentioned, skirts the mercantile harbour. At its end, to the left, is the new Dogana; to the right, on the Molo Piccolo, is situated the Immacolatella with the offices of the custom-house and the Depu- tazione di Salute (PI. G, 5). Adjoining the Immacolatella is the quay at which travellers arriving at Naples by sea disembark. This is also the starting-point of some of the Capri and Ischia steamers (see pp. 152, 104). — The Porto Piccolo (PL G, 5), which is ac- cessible to small boats only, once formed part of the most ancient harbour of Neapolis.

The first side-street to the left leads straight to the church of S. Pietro Murtire (PI. G, S), which contains a few monuments and pictures (Legend of St. Vincent, a good work in the Flemish-Neapolitan style).

The last street but one to the left before S. Pietro is reached leads into the Slrada di Porto, a scene of the most motley bustle and confusion, especially towards evening (comp. p. 27), As this, moreover, is the dirtiest

next the sea. NAPLES. 3. Route. 39

quarter of the town, the fumes which arise are intensely 'ancient and fishlike\

"We continue to follow the broad quay, farther on called the Strada Nuova(P1. G, H, 5), which is always full of life and hustle. At the end is the new Strada delDuomo (p. 53), and to the right the Villa del Popolo (PI. H, 5), a new public garden on the sea. Here in the afternoon after 4 p.m., public readers may often be seen, declaiming passages from Tasso, Ariosto, or other poets, to an audience of workmen, rag-pickers, and other humble folk, who each pay 2 c. for the privilege of listening. Similar scenes occur also outside the Porta Capuana. The garden contains a marble nymphseum, formerly in the Immacolatella (see p. 38).

Opposite rises the Castel del Carmine (PI. H, 4), a vast struc- ture erected by Ferdinand I. in 1484. In 1647 during the rebellion of Masaniello (see below) it was occupied by the populace, and is now used as barracks and a military prison.

The Porta del Carmine, on the W. side of the Castel, leads to a piazza, in which, on the right, is situated the church of S. Maria del Carmine (PI. H, 4) with its lofty tower. The edifice (open early in the morning, and after 4.30 p.m.), which is of early ori- gin, but was modernised in 1769, contains a celebrated miraculous picture of the Virgin ('La Bruna' ; festival on July 16-17th), and a statue of Conradin, the last of the Hohenstaufen, erected in 1847 by Maximilian II. of Bavaria and. executed by Schopf from a design by Thorvaldsen. The original tomb was behind the high-altar, to the right, where its position is marked by the inscription 'R. C. C (Regis Conradini corpus).

We now turn to the left to the Piazza del Mercato (PL H, 4), where the traffic is busiest on Mondays and Fridays. The fish- market is interesting. On the N. side of the piazza, which forms a semicircle, is the church of S. Croce al Mercato. On the S. side are two fountains. On 29th Oct. 1268, Conradin (see above), then in his 17th year, and his relative Frederick of Baden, were executed here by order of Charles I. of Anjou. The sacristy of the church of S. Croce contains a column of porphyry which formerly marked the spot where the young prince was beheaded. In 1647 this piazza was also one of the scenes of the insurrection of Masaniello (Tom- maso Aniello, born in the neighbouring Yico Rotto in 1622).

Returning to the church del Carmine, and following the street to the left, we may reach the Porta Capuana (p. 49) in 8 min. ; or we may pass the church and proceed in a straight direction to the small Piazza Garibaldi , and turn to the left into the broad , new Corso Garibaldi, which begins near the coast, passes (5 min.) the Porta Nolana, the railway-station, and (5 min.) the Porta Capuana, and terminates in the Strada Foria (see p. 41).

40 Route 3. NAPLES. //. Toledo.

II. The Toledo as far as the Museum.

Starting from the Largo della Vittoria (p. 34; PI. D, 7), the broad Via Calabritto, with its handsome shops, leads us to- wards the N. to the triangular Piazza db' Martiri, where the Co- lonna de' Martiri (PI. D, E, 7), a lofty column of marble decorated with trophies, and crowned with a Victory in bronze, was erected in 1864 to the memory of the patriots who have perished during the different Neapolitan revolutions. The four lions at the base, in different postures, represent the four principal revolutions at Naples during the Bourbon dynasty (1799, 1820, 1848, 1860). The mon- ument was designed by Alvino, the Victory executed by Caggiani. — On the N.W. side of the Piazza is the Palazzo Partanna, on the S. the Palazzo Calabritto, and farther on, with a garden in front, the Palazzo Nunziante.

Proceeding towards the N. by the Strada S. Caterina, from which the new Via dei Mille diverges to the left, we next enter the busy Strada di Chiaja (PI. E, 6). Where this street begins to ascend, it is crossed by the Ponte di Chiaja, a viaduct built in 1634, by which the Strada Monte di Dio leads from the quarter of Pizzofalcone to the higher ground below S. Elmo. (The flight of steps on the right, between the buttresses of the bridge, ascends < from the Strada di Chiaja to the Strada M. di Dio.) The Str. di Chiaja, which contains nothing noteworthy, leads into the Piazza S. Ferdinando (p. 36), at the foot of the Toledo.

The *Toledo (PI. E, 6-4), a street begun by the viceroy Don Pedro de Toledo in 1540, but since the autumn of 1870 officially known as the Via Roma, gia Toledo, is the main artery of the traffic of Naples, and presents a busy scene at all hours. It intersects the city from S. to N. nearly in a straight line, ascending gradually from the sea. It extends from the Piazza del Plebiscito (p. 35) to the Museo Nazionale, beyond which its prolongation is formed by the Strada Nuova di Capodimonte , and is nearly l'/2 M. in length, but contains no building worthy of note. On both sides extends a network of streets and lanes, many of which ascend to the left by means of steps to the Corso Vittorio Emanuele and the Castel S. Elmo, while those to the right extend to the railway- station and the harbour, forming the centres of mercantile traffic.

Ascending the Toledo from the Piazza S. Ferdinando, we come in about 10 min. to the small Largo della Carita (PI. E, 5), where in 1877 was erected a Monument to Carlo Poerio (d. 1867), the dauntless Italian patriot whose unjust con- demnation and imprisonment in 1850 did so much to inflame the hate of the people for the Bourbon dynasty. — Holding hence to the left we may reach Monte Santo, the terminus of the cable- railway to the Vomero (p. 23), and the station of the Cumae Rail- way (p. 91). — To the right diverges a street to the Piazza Mont- oliveto (p. 43 ; post-office, see p. 24).

•//. Toledo. NAPLES. 3. Route. 41

Farther on, to the right, at the corner of the Strada S. Trinith Maggiore (p. 44), the only important side-street by which the To- ledo is crossed, rises the Palazzo Maddaloni (PI. E, F,4, 5; entrance in the Str. Maddaloni), now let to the Banco, Nazionale, a massive structure with a gateway and staircase from designs by Fansaga. The interior contains a hall of fine proportions. Adjacent, separated by a cross-street, at the corner of the Toledo and the Strada S. Anna de1 Lombardi, is the Palazzo d'Angri, erected about 1773 by Luigi Vanvitelli, and occupied by Garibaldi when dictator in 1860.

In 2-3 min. more we reach the Piazza Dante (PI. E, F, 4), formerly the Largo del Mercatello, where a Monument of Dante in marble, by T. Angelini and Solari, was erected in 1872. The crescent- shaped edifice, beyond the statue, which was converted into a Liceo Oinnasiale Vittorio Emanuele in 1861 , surmounted by a balustrade with twenty-six statues, was erected by the city of Naples in honour of Charles III. in 1757, the statues being emblems of the virtues of that monarch. • — ■ Adjacent, to the left, is the Porta Alba, erected in 1632, embellished with a bronze statue of S. Gaetano , whence the Via de' Tribunali may be entered (see pp. 51-55).

Leaving the Piazza Dante , and passing a row of houses re- cently erected, we ascend gradually in 5 min. by the Salita del Museo to the Museo Nazionale (PI. E, F, 3; p. 55), a large red building, the entrance to which is in the broad side-street diverg- ing on the right to the Piazza Cavour. — By the Toledo hence to Capodimonte, see pp. 80, 81.

Opposite the entrance of the Museum is the Oalleria Principe di Napoli, a covered bazaar (PI. F, 3) designed by Alvino, not much frequented.

The long PiAzza Cavoub. (PI. F, 3) , which extends on the E. side of the Museum, is embellished with gardens. To the N.E.the piazza contracts into the Strada Foria (PI. F, G, 3, 2). The first street diverging from it to the right is the Strada del Duomo, lead- ing to the cathedral (4 min. ; p. 51); the Strada Oarbonara next di- verges on the same side to S. Giovanni a Carbonara (p. 50) and the Porta Capuana ; and the Corso Garibaldi farther on also leads to the right to the same gate (10 min. ; p. 49).

On the left side of the Strada Foria we next reach the Botanic Garden, which was founded in 1809 and extended in 1818. It is open to the public daily, except from 12 to 2, and contains a fine collection of tropical plants. — Adjacent is the extensive poor- house, the Albergo de' Poveri, or Reclusorio (PI. G, H, 1, 2), begun by Charles III. in 1751 from a design by Fuga, and intended to contain four courts, still nearly half uncompleted. One side is ap- propriated to men, the other to women. In this establishment and its dependencies about 2000 persons are maintained. The city contains numerous other charitable institutions , about sixty in all, most of which are amply endowed.

42 Route 3. NAPLES. III. The Old Town.

III. The Old Town. E. Quarters between the Toledo and the

Harbour.

Naples contains about three hundred Chdkches, most of which are devoid of interest. The older of them have been disfigured by restora- tion in the degraded style of the 17th and 18th centuries, which appears to have attained its height here. But , as they contain numerous mon- uments, important in the history of sculpture, and are rich in historical and political associations, some of them are well deserving of a visit. The most important are described in the following pages. They are gen- erally closed about noon, and not re-opened till evening.

We begin our walk in the Strada Medina (PI. F, 5; p. 37). To the left, adjoining No. 49, is a railing enclosing a flight of steps which descend to the church of the —

Incoronata (open in the morning), erected in 1352 by Queen Johanna I. to commemorate her coronation and marriage with her cousin Louis of Taranto, and made to include the old chapel of the Palais de Justice in which the marriage had been solemnised.

This chapel contains fine Frescoes, formerly attributed to Giotto, but probably by one of his pupils (much darkened and injured; best seen from a platform to the left near the entrance to the church; keys at the sacristy, 5-6 soldi). They represent the 'Seven Sacraments and the Church'. In the arch over the right window, on the right is the 'Triumph of the Church', with portraits of King Robert and his son Charles, attired in purple , on the left the Extreme Unction. The next arch to the right comprises: (1.) Baptism, (r.) Confirmation; then (1.) the Eucharist, and (r.) Confession; and on the other side, (1.) Ordination, (r.) Matrimony. The last refers to the marriage above mentioned , which did not take place till 1347, eleven years after Giotto's death. Two halffigures in 'Baptism', one of which is crowned with laurel, are said to represent Petrarch and Laura, and in 'Matrimony' Dante's features are said to be re- cognisable. The Chapel of the Crucifix, at the end of the left aisle, also contains frescoes in Giotto's style , ascribed to Gennaro di Cola , a pupil of Maestro Simone : to the left are represented the Coronation of Johanna I., her nuptials, and other events in her life; to the right St. Martin, St. George, battles, etc., all much damaged. Fine wood-carving on the organ screen.

Opposite the church is situated the Palazzo Fondi, designed by Luigi Vanvitelli. — Farther on in the Strada Medina is a statue of Fr. Sav. Mercadante (d. 1870), the composer of several operas.

At the end of the Strada Medina we enter the busy Strada S. Giuseppe to the left. After a few minutes' walk, a broad street to the right leads to the church of S. Maria la Nuova (PI. F, 5), the entrance of which is approached by a flight of steps. It was erected in 1268 by Giovanni da Pisa, and restored in 1525 by Agnolo Franco.

Interior. The ceiling is adorned with frescoes by Santafede and Simone Papa the younger, and the dome with others by Corenzio (the four Franciscan teachers S. Bonaventura, Duns Scotus, Nicolaus de Lira, and Alexander ab Alexandro). The fine marble pavement is in poor preservation.

In the 1st Chap, to the right, the 'Archangel Michael', formerly ascribed to Michael Angelo. 3rd Chap. : Crucifixion, by Marco da Siena. In the Chap, del Crocefisso frescoes by Corenzio. — The right transept contains the monu- ment of Galeazzo Sanseverino (d. 1467), with sculptures. In the opposite chapel is a beautiful crucifix in wood by Giovanni da Nola. — At the high-altar is a Madonna in wood by Tommaso de' Slefani, with saints by A. Borghetli. — The large Chapel of S, Giacomo della Maeoa, to the

E. Quarters. NAPLES. 3. Route. 43

left of the entrance to the church, was erected in 1604 by Gonsalvo da Cordova, lil gran capitano', whose nephew Ferdinand placed on each side of the altar the monuments of his two most distinguished enemies : Pietro Navarro (who strangled himself when a prisoner in the Castello Nuovo) and Lautrec , a Frenchman , the general of Francis I. (who died of the plague in 1528, while besieging Naples-). The monuments are attributed to Qiov. da Nolo, or his pupils. The inscriptions, composed by Paolo Giovio, testify to the chivalrous sentiments of that period.

The adjoining Monastery possesses two sets of Cloisters, with tomb- stones, aud a Refectory adorned with a Bearing of the Cross and other frescoes by unknown masters.

We now return and pursue our route along the Str. Giuseppe, of which the Strada Montoliyeto forms the continuation. Where the latter expands into a square, on the right stands the Palazzo Gravina , now the General Post and Telegraph Office (PL F, 5), erected about 1500 by Ferdinando Orsini, Duca di Gravina, from designs by Qdbriele d'Agnolo, but disfigured by modern improvements.

Ascending from this point to the left , past a Fountain with a bronze statue of Charles II. (1663), we reach the Piazza di Montoliyeto, where the side-street (p. 40) to the Toledo begins. Here is the church of *Monte Oliveto (PL F, 5), usually called S. Anna dei Lombardi, begun in 1411 by Guerello Origlia, the favour- ite of King Ladislaus, and continued in the Early Renaissance style by Andrea Ciccione. The church is a flat-roofed basilica without aisles, and contains valuable sculptures; the chapels are kept shut (sacristan '/2 fr-)-

Interior. Cappella Piccolomini (1st on the left) : "Altar by Ant. Ro- selliao of Florence (about 1475) : in the centre the Nativity, in the niches at the sides and in the medallions the four Evangelists, above, Dancing angels and four Putti. The ''Monument of Maria of Aragon (d. 1470), natural daughter of Ferdinand I., wife of Antonio Piccolomini, Duke of Amalfi, by Rossellino, (probably completed by Benedetto da Maiano), is a copy of the monument of the Cardinal of Portugal in S. Miniato's at Flo- rence. Crucifixion, by Oiulio Mazzoni of Piacenza. The Ascension, a picture by Silvestro de" Buoni (ascribed by Sig. Frizzoni to the school of Pintur- icchio). — Opposite the sacristy is the Coko dei Fkati, containing fine intarsia work by Giovanni da Verona (d. 1525), restored in 1840 by Min- chiotti. — The Choir contains frescoes by Simone Papa the Younger. The Sacristy , behind the choir, is adorned with frescoes by Vasari. The monuments of Alphonso II. and Guerello Origlia are by Giovanni da Sola. — Cappella Mastkogiudici (1st on the right). Marble "Altar, with the Annunciation and six small reliefs from the life of Christ, below, by Be- nedetto da Maiano (1489). Several monuments, including that of 'Marinus Curialis Surrentinus Terrenovse comes', 1490, who founded this chapel. — 5th Chapel on the left : John the Baptist, by Giovanni da Sola. — The Chapel of the Madonna (adjoining the right transept) contains the tombs of Cardinal Pompeo Colonna , viceroy of Naples (d. 1532), and of Charles de Lannoy (d. 1527), general of Charles V. — The adjacent Chapel of the Holt Sepulchre contains a coarsely realistic *Grroup in terracotta com- pleted in 1492 by Guido Mazzoni, surnamed Modanino (of Modena ; d. 1518), representing Christ in the Sepulchre, surrounded by six lifesize figures in a kneeling posture , all portraits of contemporaries of the artist : Sanna- zaro as Joseph of Arimathsea, Pontanus as Nicodemus, Alphonso II. as John, beside him his son Ferdinand.

The adjacent building, now occupied by public offices , was formerly a Benedictine Monastery , where the poet Tasso was

44 Route 3. NAPLES. III. The Old Town.

kindly received when ill and in distress in 1558. The old chapter- house (shown to -visitors by the sacristan) , in the early-Gothic style with disfigurements of later date , is remarkable for its fine effects of light and shade. The beautiful intarsia work on the choir-stalls is by Angelo da Verona.

Returning to the fountain mentioned on p. 43, we follow the Calata S. Trinita Maggiore to the Largo S. Trinita Maggiore (PI. F, 4), where a lofty Madonna Column was erected in 1748 in the style of the period. In this piazza is situated the church of Gesu Nuovo, or S. Trinita Maggiore, in the form of a Greek cross, built in 1584, containing frescoes by Solimena (History of Heliodorus, over the portal), Stanzioni, Spagnoletto, and Corenzio, and overladen with marble and decorations. — The office of the 'Corriere di Na- poli' opposite the church, Piazza S. Trinita Maggiore 12, contains the old refectory of the former monastery of 8. Chiara, where a dam- aged fresco by one of Oiolto's pupils, representing the Miracle of the Loaves, is still preserved (not always accessible).

Beyond the church of Gesu we reach the Strada S. Trinita Maggiore, one of the busiest streets crossing the Toledo (p. 40), and turning immediately to the right we pass through a gate to *Santa Chiara (PI. F, 4), originally erected by Robert the Wise in 1310, but almost entirely rebuilt in 1318, and richly but tas- telessly restored in 1752. At the same time Oiotto's frescoes were whitewashed. The church contains handsome Gothic monuments of the Angevin dynasty, and other sculptures.

The "Interior, 92 yds. long and 35 yds. wide, is lofty and handsome, resembling a magnificent hall. To the left of the principal entrance is the monument of Onofrio di Penna, secretary of King Ladislaus (d. 1322), with a relief of the Madonna and hermits by Bdboccio , converted into an altar. Above are a Madonna enthroned and the Trinity, by Francesco, son of Maestro Simone (about 1300). — In front of the organ, above, are tasteful reliefs from the life of St. Catharine , 14th cent. , executed on a dark ground and resembling cameos. — Of the principal paintings on the ceiling, the first, the Queen of Sheba, and the second, David playing on the harp, are by Seb. Conca; the third, David sacrificing, by Bonito; the fourth, S. Clara putting the Saracens to flight, by Francesco di Sura. The last-named master also painted the high -altar-piece (the Sacrament) and the picture over the principal entrance (King Robert inspecting the church when building).

The second chapel on the left contains two sarcophagi: on the right is the tomb of Gabriel Adorno (d. 1572), an admiral under the Emperor Charles V. ; on the left a tomb of the 14th century. — By the 3rd pillar to the left is the altar of the Madonna delle Grazie, with a fresco almost concealed by frippery, attributed to Giotto.

Near the side-door which leads out of the church on the left side is the small but graceful monument, by Oiov. da Sola, of Antonia Gaudino, who died in 1530 at the age of 14, on the day appointed for her marriage, with a beautiful epitaph by the poet Antonius Epicurus (d. 1555). The next chapel contains two tombstones of the 14th century. — The Capfella Sanfelice, adjoining the pulpit, which is borne by lions and adorned with reliefs of the 13th cent., contains a Crucifixion by Lanfranco, and an an- cient sarcophagus with figures of Protesilaus and Laodamia which forms the tomb of Cesare Sanfelice, Duca di Rodi (d. 1632). — The following Cappella Longobardi de la Cruz Ahedo contains on the left side a mon- ument of 1529, and on the right a similar one of 1853.

E. Quarters. NAPLES. 3. Route. 45

At the back of the high-altar is the magnificent "Monument of Robert the Wise (d. 1343), 42 ft. in height, executed by the brothers Baccio and Giovanni of Florence (not Masuccio the Younger). The king is represented in a recumbent posture , in the garb of a Franciscan, on a sarcophagus embellished with reliefs and supported by saints. In a niche above he appears again, seated on his throne. At the top is the Madonna between SS. Francis and Clara. The inscription, 'Cernite Robertum regem virtute refertum' is ascribed to Petrarch. — ■ In the adjacent N. Transept is the monument of his second daughter Mary, sister of Johanna I. , empress of Constantinople and Duchess of Durazzo, attired in her imperial robes. By the wall to the left, the tomb of Agnese and Clementia, the two daughters of the empress, the former having also been the consort of a titular emperor of Constantinople , Giacomo del Balzo, Prince of Taranto. In the left lateral wall , the tomb of Mary, infant daughter of Charles the Illustrious, who died in 1344. Here also is the fine tomb of Paolina Eanieri, the faithful friend of Giacomo Leopardi, with a lifesize figure of the deceased, by Car. Solari (1878). — In the S. Transept, adjoining the monument of Robert the Wise , is that of his eldest son Charles, Duke of Calabria, who died in 1328, before his father, by Tino da Camaino of Siena (1338). Farther on, to the right, is the monument of Mary of Valois, his queen, erroneously said to be that of her daughter Johanna I. — The Chapel adjoining the S. transept on the right is the burial-chapel of the Bourbons, in which six children of Charles III. are interred.

The handsome Campanile (clock -tower) of S. Chiara was formerly attributed to Masuccio the Younger or to his pupil Giacomo de Sanctis (14th cent.), and hence was long considered to prove that Naples was one of the heralds of the Renaissance. In reality it was not built till after 1600.

Farther on in the Str. S. Trinita Maggiore, we soon reach, on the left, the Largo S. Dombnico (PI. F, 4), containing the palaces of (to the right) Casacalenda, Corigliano, and (to the left, beyond the square) S. Severo, and Caviati, and adorned with a Obelisk, surmounted by a bronze statue of the saint, executed by Vaccaro in 1737 from a design by Fansaga. The stairs to the left lead to a side-entranoe of the church of S. Domenico, the principal entrance of which in the court of the Pretura, Vico S. Domenico, is generally closed.

*S. Domenico Maggiore (open 7-11 a.m. only), erected by Charles II. in 1289 in the Gothic style is one of the finest churches in Naples, notwithstanding the subsequent alterations it has under- gone (the last in 1850-53). The church is 83 yds. long, 36 yds. wide, and 84 ft. high. It contains twenty-seven chapels and twelve altars, and presents an imposing appearance with its handsome columns and rich gilding, but the cassetted ceiling, added in the 17th cent., does not harmonise well with the rest of the edifice. The most distinguishedsfamilies of Naples have for several centuries possessed chapels here, with numerous monuments, which are as important examples of early Renaissance sculpture as those in S. Chiara are of Gothic art.

The 1st Chapel to the right (wall of the entrance), that of the Sa- luzzo , formerly of the Carafa family, contains an altar - piece (Madonna with SS. Martin and Dominicus and several of the Carafas) by Andrea

46 Route 3. NAPLES. III. The Old Town.

da Salerno, freely repainted ; also the rococo monument of General Filippo Saluzzo (d. 1852), and the chaste and simple monument of Galeotto Carafa (d. 1513) with medallion. — 2nd Chap.: Altar-piece by Agnolo Franco; monument of Bishop Bartolommeo Brancaccio (d. 1341).

The "Cappella del Ceocefisso (the 7th) contains handsome monu- ments of the 15th century. The altar is covered with Florentine mosaic designed by Cosimo Fansaga. On the lower part of the altar is a relief of the Miracle of the Crucifix by Tommaso de" Slefani, which according to tradition, thus addressed Thomas Aquinas : 'Bene scripsisti de me, Thoma : quam ergo mercedem recipies?1 To which the saint replied : 'Non aliam nisi te.' Pictures on each side of the altar: on the right Bearing of the Cross, on the left Descent from the Cross by an imitator of the Flemish style. To the left of the altar the "Monument of Francesco Carafa (d. 1470) by Agnello del Fiore; on the opposite side another by the same master, completed by Giovanni da Nola. The small side-chapel contains the tomb of Ettore Carafa, Conte di Ruvo (d. 1511), with martial emblems and arabesques. The next chapel on the left contains the Madonna della Rosa, ascribed to Maestro Simone. On the opposite side is the beautiful "Monument of Mariano d'Alagni, Count Bucchianico, and his wife Catarinella TJrsino fd. 1447), by Agnello del Fiore. Adjacent to it is the monument of Niccolo di Sangro, Principe di Fondi, by Domenico d^Anria. — At the entrance to the sacristy, monuments of various members of the family of Thomas Aquinas.

The "Sacristy has a ceiling-painting by Solimena , and at the altar an Annunciation , attributed to Andrea da Salerno. Around the walls, above, are forty-five large wooden sarcophagi with velvet covers, ten of which contain the remains of princes of the house of Aragon. Among these are Ferdinand I. (d. 1494) ; Ferdinand II. (d. 1496) ; his aunt , Queen Johanna, daughter of Ferdinand I. (d. 1518); Isabella (d. 1524), daughter of AlphonsoII. and wife of the Duke of Milan, etc. Also the coffin of Fernando Francesco d'Avalos, Marchese di Pescara, the hero of Ravenna and Pavia, who died of his wounds at Milan in 1525. The inscription is by Ariosto. Above the tomb are suspended his portrait, a banner, and a sword. His wife was the celebrated Vittoria Colonna, who after his death sang his praises in the island of Ischia (p. 106).

In the S. Transept is the Monument of Galeazzo Pandone (d. 1514), by Giovanni da Nola.

From the S. transept a door leads into a portion of the older church, which also contains some interesting monuments, particularly that of the Rota family, by Giovanni da Nola. Here also is the side-entrance men- tioned at p. 45.

The High Altar, adorned with Florentine mosaic, is by Fansaga, 1652.

In the rJ. Transept, above the chapel of the Pignatelli, are the monu- ments of Giovanni di Durazzo (d. 1323) and Filippo di Taranto (d. 1335), sons of Charles II., with a long inscription in leonine verse.

N. Aisle. The 8th Chapel (S. Maria della Neve; contains above the altar a beautiful "Haut-relief with a statue of the Virgin, attended by St. Matthew and St. John, the best work of Giovanni da Nola, executed in 1536. Here, to the right, is also the monument of the poet Giambattista Marini of Naples (d. 1625), well known for his bombastic style, with a bust by Bartolommeo Viscontini. — 7th Chapel, of the Ruffo Bagnara family: Martyrdom of St. Catharine, by Leonardo da Pistoja; tombs of Leonardo Tomacelli (d. 1529) and of Cardinal Fabricio Ruffo (d. 1829) who acted a prominent part in the events of 1799. — 6th Chapel: tombs of the Carafa. — 5th Chapel: of the Andrea. — 4th Chapel : tombs of the Rota family, with a "Statue of John the Baptist by Giovanni da Nola, as a monument to the poet Bernar- dino Rota (d. 1575), with figures of the Arno and the Tiber by Bomenico d'Auria (1600). — 3rd Chapel, to the left: Martyrdom of St. John by Scipione Gaelano; tomb of Antonio Carafa, surnamed Malizia (d. 1438). — 2nd Chapel, in the bad taste of the 17th cent. : the miracle-working Ma- donna di S. Andrea. — 1st Chapel, to the left, by the entrance (S. Stefano): Christ crowning Joseph, by Luca Giordano : on the lateral walls an Adora- tion of the Magi, by a Flemish master; Holy Family, ascribed to Andrea da Salerno.

E. Quarters. NAPLES. 3. Route. 47

In the adjacent monastery the celebrated Thomas Aquinas lived in 1272 as professor of philosophy at the university which was then founded, and his lectures were attended by men of the highest rank, and even the king himself. His cell , now a chapel , and his lecture-room still exist. The monastery is now occupied by various public offices. The Accademiu Pontaniana, founded in 1471 by the learned Giovanni Pontano, also meets here.

Ascending the Via Mezzocannone (p. 28), which leads to the S. from S. Domenico, and then following the third cross-street to the right, we reach the Piazza di S. Giovanni Maggiore, in which rises the church of S. Giovanni Maggiore (PL F, 5), recently entire- ly rebuilt in consequence of a collapse. The adjacent chapel of 8. Giovanni de' Pappacoda possesses a handsome Gothic portal dating from 1415. — The small church of S. Maria della Pieth de' Sangri , commonly called La Cappella Sansevero (PL F, 4), is now closed and difficult of access, owing to the demolition of the Palazzo Sansevero, to which it belonged as the burial-place of the Sangro di Sansevero family. The marble worts in this chapel — Dead Christ enveloped in a winding-sheet, Cecilia Gaetani, wife of Antonio di Sangro, as Pudicitia, and the 'Man in the Net', by Giuseppe Sammartino, Ant. Conradini, and Fran. Queirolo, — ex- hibit all the bad taste of 18th cent, art, its tricky effects with trans- parent garments, its artificiality, etc., combined at the same time with a high degree of technical finish.

We now return to the Largo S. Domenico (p. 45), and proceed to the N. E. by the Strada Nilo and by the Strada S. Biagio de' Librai (p. 48) farther on. Immediately to the right is S. Angelo a Nilo (PL F, 4), erected in 1385; to the right of the high-altar is the ♦Monument of the founder Cardinal Brancacci (d. 1428), by Dona- tello and Michelozzo , who have here blended the Gothic mon- umental character with the new style of the Renaissance.

The VrA dell' Universita (the second street from the Piazza S. Domenico to the right) descends hence to the right to the not far distant —

TJniversity (PL F, 4 ; Regia Universita degli Studj), founded in 1224 by the Emp. Frederick II., reconstituted in 1780 and removed to the Jesuits' College. It is one of the most ancient in Europe, and possesses five faculties, about 100 professorial chairs, a library, and natural history collections of which the mineralogical is the most valuable. It is attended by upwards of 4000 students. The library, on the upper floor, to the right, is open from 9 to 3 daily (librarian Coram,. Minervini). The Court contains a few busts and the statues of Pietro della Vigna, chancellor of Frederick II., Tho- mas Aquinas, G. B. Vico, and Giordano Bruno, erected in 1863. An extensive new University Building in the new quarter near the Re- clusorio (p. 41) is planned.

Leaving the university and proceeding in a straight direction, we reach the richly decorated church of SS. Severino e Sosio (PL G, 4), in the Piazza S. Marcellino, built by Mormandi in 1490.

48 Route 3. NAPLES. HI. The Old Town.

The roof is adorned with frescoes by Corenzio, who is interred here, by the entrance to the sacristy. The choir-stalls, dating from the end oi the 15th cent., are beautifully carved. Adjoining the choir to the right is the chapel of the Sanseverini, containing three monuments pf three bro- thers, who were poisoned by their uncle in 1516, works of Giovanni da Nola. In a chapel near the choir, to the right, is the tomb of the historian Carlo Troya (d. 1858). In the N. transept are the monuments oi Admiral Vincenzo Carafa (d. 1611) and the Duca Francesco de Marmilis (d. 1649). The 2nd chapel in the N. aisle contains an altar-piece by An- drea da Salerno, in six sections, representing the Madonna with St. Jus- tina and John theBaplist. By the entrance to the sacristy, in the chapel to the right, the 'Tomb of a child, Andrea Bonifacio, ascribed to Giov. da Nola; opposite to it is that of Giambattista Cicara, by the same master, both with inscriptions by Sannazaro.

The monastery connected with this church has since 1818 been the depository of the Archives of the kingdom, which are among the most valuable in the world. Frescoes and paintings by Corenzio adorn the interior. The 40,000 parchment MSS. (the oldest of which are in Greek) date from 703 onwards , and include the Norman, Hohenstaufen, Angevin, Aragonese, and Spanish periods. The documents of the Angevin period, 380,000 in number, form no fewer than 378 volumes. (Permission to inspect them must be obtained from the director of the Archives, the historian Comm. Bart. Capasso.) — The entrance to the cloisters is by a gateway to the right in the street ascending to the left of the church. We then traverse the arcades of the first two courts, and in the next we shall find the custodian between 10 and 3 o'clock (}/i-l ft.). The walls of the cloisters are adorned with nineteen *Fb,escobs, unfortunately much damaged and of late badly restored, represent- ing scenes from the life of St. Benedict. They are generally ascribed to Lo Zingaro and his supposed pupils, the Donzelli and Simone Papa, but Messrs. Crowe and Cavalcaselle assign them to a painter of Umbro-Florentine origin. The best of the series is that in grisaille representing the youthful saint on his way to Rome with his father and nurse. The others were probably carried out by assistants. (Best light in the forenoon.) In the open space in the centre is a fine plane-tree which is said to have been planted by St. Benedict, and on which a fig-tree is grafted.

Returning to the principal street (p. 47), the continuation of which is called the Stbada S. Biagio de' Libkai (PI. F, G, 4), we pass the Monte di Pieta, or public loan-establishment, on the right, and several churches and palaces of little importance. After about y4 M. our street is crossed by the broad Via del Duomo (p. 53), the left branch of which runs N. to the Strada de' Tribunali, which leads straight to the Castel Capuano mentioned below.

We continue to follow the Str. S. Biagio, which after 5 mill, divides : to the right the Str. S. Egiziaca a Forcella leads to the Porta Nolana (p. 39); to the left is the Str. dell' Annunziata with the Church of the Annunziata (PI. H, 4), erected in 1757-82 by L. Van- vitelli on the site of an earlier church dating from Robert the Wise

E. Quarters. NAPLES. 3. Route. 49

(frescoes by Corenzio ; tomb of the notorious Queen Johanna II.,

d. 1435). — Adjoining is the large Casa dei Trovatelli, or Found- lings' Home, shown by special permission only. To the left of the entrance is the niche (now built up) in which formerly worked the 'ruota' or wheel on which the foundlings were placed. Now the children are received inside the institution and the names of the parents ascertained. Boys Temain in the home until 7 years old; girls, if unmarried, frequently spend their entire life here, working as sempstresses, servants, etc. (their embroidery is noted). The income of the home, which is admirably managed, is about 400,000 francs. It is the popular custom to visit this home on April 24th and 25th. — The Str. dell' Annunziata is continued by the Str. Maddalena, which leads us to the piazza immediately within the Porta Capuana. On our right here is the gate (see below) ; opposite us is the church of S. Caterina a Formello, with a dome constructed in 1523; and on our left is the —

Castel Capuano (PI. Gr, 3), usually called La Vicaria, found- ed by William I. and completed by Frederick II. in 1231 from a design by Fuccio, once the principal residence of the Hohenstaufen kings, and occasionally that of the Anjous. In 1540 Don Pedro de Toledo (p. 31) transferred the different courts of justice to this pal- ace, where they remain to this day. A visit to some of these courts affords the traveller a good opportunity of becoming acquainted with the Neapolitan national character. A prison of evil repute was formerly situated below the criminal court. The chief entrance is on the other side, opposite the Via de' Tribunali (p. 51).

The *Porta Capuana (PL H, 3), built by Ferdinand I. of Aragon about 1484, was designed by the Florentine Giuliano da Maiano, and is one of the finest Renaissance gateways in existence. On the entry of Charles V. in 1535 it was restored and decorated with sculptures on the outside by Giovanni da Nola. Like most of the other gateways at Naples, it is flanked by two handsome round towers.

Past the outside of this gate runs the Corso Garibaldi (PI. H, 3, 4), which extends from the sea to the Strada Foria (see p. 41). Near the gate is the station of the branch-line to Nola-Baiano (PI. H, 3 ; p. 173), close beside which is the station for the Aversa and Cai- vano line (see p. 23).

Outside the Porta Capuana stretch the verdant and fertile Paduli (i.

e. paludi or marshes), a district about 20 sq. M. in area, the kitchen- garden of Naples, in which crops succeed each other in continuous rotation all the year round. About 3/t M. beyond the gate the tramway (p. 23) ends, opposite the extensive Slaughter Bouse, at the —

"Campo Santo Nuovo, laid out in 1836, adjoining the hill called Poggio Reale. trom the lower entrance the principal avenue leads to a rectan- gular space, containing the tombs of the chief Neapolitan families. The path diverging here to the left leads to a good point of view. Farther up the principal avenue is the Church, in which a solemn service is held on All Souls' Day (Nov. 2nd; 'Giorno dei Morti'J. Through the open doorway on the left we enter the colonnaded Atrium of the cemetery, in the centre of which is a colossal Statue of Religion, by Angelini. The

Baedeker. Italy III. 11th Edition. 4

50 Route 3. NAPLES. III. The Old Town.

cemetery contains numerous chapels erected by guilds and societies, many of them in the shape of temples. These consist of two apartments, in the lower of which the bodies are buried for about 18 months , until they are completely parched (not decayed) through the action of the tufa soil. They are then removed to the upper apartment and placed in niches covered with marble slabs.

Leaving the cemetery by the principal gate we reach the road from the Eeclusorio (p. 41). In this road, a few yards farther on, to the left, is the Cimitero della Pield, or burial-ground of the poor, opened in 18S8. This cemetery, which is laid out in terraces, resembles a huge amphi- theatre. In the centre stands a Pietd in marble, and at the top of the hill is a chapel.

The well-kept Protestant Cemetery {Cimitero Protestante ; PI. H, 2) lies on the road to the Campo Santo Vecchio, about >/4 M. from the Porta Capuana. (Visitors ring at the gate, 'fa fr.). A very large pro- portion of the names observed here are English, German, and American (among others that of Mrs. Somerville, the mathematician, d. 1872).

Starting from the piazza within the Porta Capuana, and pass- ing in front of the church of S. Caterina (p. 49), we now follow the Strada Carbonara (PI. Gr, 3), which leads in 8 min. to the Strada Foria(p. 41). On the right, at the point where the street narrows, a broad flight of 45 steps ascends to the church of —

*S. Giovanni a Carbonara (PI. G, 3), erected in 1344, and enlarged by King Ladislaus. Entrance by a side-door.

The "'Monument of King Ladislaus (d. 1414), considered the master- piece of Andrea Ciccione, erected by Johanna II., the king's sister, stands at the back of the high-altar, and is of very imposing general effect, as well as carefully executed in the details. Above is the equestrian statue of Ladislaus ; in a recess below, a sarcophagus with the king in a recumbent posture, receiving the benediction of a bishop (in reference to the removal of the excommunication under which the king lay at his death); under- neath , Ladislaus and Johanna ; and the whole is supported by statues which represent the virtues of the deceased. The altar was restored in 1746.

The Cappella del Sole, behind this monument, contains the "Tomb of the Grand Seneschal Sergianni Caracciolo, the favourite of Johanna II., murdered in 1432 , also by Ciccione. It was erected by his son Trojano, and reveals traces of the dawn of the Renaissance. Inscription by Lorenzo Valla. The frescoes, scenes from the life of Mary, are by Leonardo di Bisuccio of Milan (about 1450), one of the last pupils of Giotto. — The Chapel of the Caracciolo Rosso, to the left of the high-altar, a circular temple erected and ornamented in 1516-57 from the designs of Girolarno Santacroce, contains statues by Qiov. da Nola, Girol. Santacroce, and Pietro della Plata (altar-reliefs), and the monuments of Galeazzo to the left, and Colantonio Caracciolo opposite, by Scilla and Dom. d'Auria respectively.

— The Sacristy contains fifteen scenes from the history of Christ by Vasari, 1546 (much injured). — Adjoining the entrance to the sacristy from the church is a Madonna delle Grazie, a handsome statue executed in 1571. — On the same side, farther on, is ;a large altar in the form of a chapel, called the 'Chapel of St. John the Evangelist, with good Renaissance sculptures of the 15th cent., renewed in 1619 by Al. Mirdbollo.

— The above list by no means exhausts the interesting monuments in the church.

The Congregazione di S. Monica, with a separate entrance at the top of the flight of steps leading to the church , contains the monument of Prince Ferdinando di Sanseverino by Andreas de Plorentia.

Near S. Giovanni a Carbonara was once the arena for gladiator- combats, of which, in the time of Johanna I. and King Andreas, Petrarch was a horror-stricken spectator.

We now return to the Castel Capuano (p. 49).

E. Quarters. NAPLES. 3. Route. 51

From the Piazza de' Tribunali, opposite the principal entrance to the Castel Capuano, the busy Stkada de' Tkibunali (PI. F, G, 3, 4) leads in a nearly "W". direction towards the Toledo. Follow- ing this street, we pass (on the left) the Gothic entrance of the Ospedale delta Pace, and soon reach the small piazza of <S. Gennaro on the right, the column in which was erected after the appalling eruption of Vesuvius in 1631 (p. 114) to commemorate the suc- cour rendered by St. Januarius. On the summit is the bronze figure of the saint by Finelli.

We next ascend the stairs to the cathedral (principal entrance in the new Via del Duomo, see p. 53).

The *Cathedral (PI. G, 3), which is dedicated to St. Januarius (S. Gennaro), was "begun in 1272 by Charles I. of Anjou on the site of a temple of Neptune, continued by Charles II. after 1294, and completed by Robert, grandson of the founder, in 1314. It is in the French-Gothic style, with lofty towers and pointed arches. The freely modernized principal facade of 1299, the portal of which dates from 1407, is at present undergoing restoration, and is being provided with towers. In 1456 the church was nearly destroyed by an earthquake, but was afterwards rebuilt by Alphonso I. During the 17th and 18th centuries it underwent frequent alterations and restorations, but it still retains many of its original characteristics. The edifice is a basilica, the aisles of which have a Gothic vaulting.

Interior. The ceiling-paintings of the Nave are by Santa/ede (the square ones) and Vincenzo da Forti (oval) ; the frescoes on the upper part of the lateral walls are by Luca Giordano and his pupils, St. Cyril and St. Chryso- stom are by Solimena. Over the principal entrance are the tombs of (1.) Charles I. of Anjou and (r.) Charles Martel, King of Hungary, eldest son of Charles II. and his wife Clementia, a daughter of Rudolph of Hapsburg, restored by the viceroy Olivarez in 1599. Above the side-doors are paint- ings by Vasari (1546), representing David playing the harp, and the patron-saints of Naples; the heads are portraits of Pope Paul III. and other members of the Farnese family.

In the S. Aisle is the "Chapel of St. Januarius (the 3rd), commonly known as the Cappella del Tesoro , adorned with a marble facade and magnificent large brazen doors. On the right and left are two lofty columns of greenish marble, and above is the inscription: 'Divo Janua- rio, e fame bello, peste, ac Vesuvi igne miri ope sanguinis erepta Nea- polis, civi patrono vindici.' The chapel was erected in consequence of a vow made during the plague in 1527. The work was begun in 1608 and com- pleted in 1637 at a cost of a million ducats (about 225,0002.). The best time to see it is shortly before 12, the hour when the church closes.

The interior of the chapel, which is in the form of a Greek cross, is richly decorated with gold and marble, and contains eight altars, forty-two columns of broccatello, magnificent doors , five oil-paintings on copper Dy Domenichino, and several frescoes from the life of St. Januarius. J.ne nrst four representations, however, alone (tomb of the saint ; his martyrdom ; re- suscitation of a youth; sick persons healed by oil from a lamp whicli Iiaa hung before the tomb of the saint) are entirely by Domemchmo who a ong with Guido Reni and Lanfranco, intimidated by the threats of their jealous Neapolitan rivals, Spagnoletto and Corenzio , abandoned the task oi paint- ing the dome. - The Sacristy of the Tesoro contains pictures by Stan- zioni and Luca Giordano; a Mostly collection of ecclesiastical vestments and sacred vessels- the silver bust of St. Januarius, executed for Charles II. k ,1306 ^.t'ote busts in silver of the patron - saints of the city

52 Route 3. NAPLES. III. The Old Town.

and other valuable relics. — In the tabernacle of the high-altar, which is adorned with a carefully covered relief in silver representing the arrival of the saint's remains, are preserved two vessels containing the Blood of St. Januarius, Bishop of Benevento , who suffered martyrdom under Diocletian in 305 (comp. p. 95). The liquefaction of the blood, which according to the legend took place for the first time when the body was brought to Naples by Bishop St. Severus in the time of Constantine, is the occasion of the greatest festival of Naples and takes place three times annually during several successive days (1st Saturday in May, in the evening, 19th Sept., and 16th Dec, between 9 and 10 a. m.). According as the liquefaction is rapid or slow it is considered a good or evil omen for the ensuing year. Travellers by applying to the Sagrestano may often secure a good place near the altar during the solemnity.

In the S. aisle, farther on, is the Cappella Bkancia (the 5th), which contains the handsome tomb of Cardinal Carbone (d. 1405) by Ant. Ba- boccio. — In the S. Trahsept is the chapel of the Caraccioli, with the monument of Cardinal Bernardino Caraccioli (d. 1268).

At the back of the transept, to the right, is the entrance to the "Cappella Minotoli (open 6-8 a.m. only), in the Gothic style, the upper part adorned with paintings by Tommaso degli Stefani in the 13th cent, (frequently retouched), the lower part by an unknown master; over the principal altar, monument of Card. Arrigo Minutoli (d. 1412), with a relief of the Virgin andApostles; other tombs of the 14th and 15th cent.; triptych of the Trinity on the altar to the left, a good early Sienese work. — The adjoining Cappella Toooa contains the tomb of St. Asprenas, one of the first bishops of Naples.

Beneath the high-altar (staircase to the right, with brazen doors) is the richly decorated "Confessio , or crypt , with ancient columns and beautiful marble covering , containing the tomb of St. Januarius. The tasteful ornamentation , by Tomaso Malvito of Como (1504) , should he remarked. Facing the shrine, to the left, is the kneeling figure of Car- dinal Oliviero Carafa , who erected the chapel in 1492-1506, probably also by Malvito. — Fresco on the ceiling of the choir by Domenichino, the Adoration of the Angels.

The Gothic chapel of the Capece Galeota, to the left of the high-altar, contains a painting of Christ between St. Januarius and St. Athanasius, 15th century.

In the N. Transept, by the door of the sacristy, are the tombs of (r.) : Innocent IV. (d. 1254 at Naples), erected by the Archbishop Umberto di Montorio in 1318 , restored in the 16th cent. ; Andreas, King of Hungary, who was murdered by his queen Johanna I. at Aversa, as the inscription records : 'Andrese Caroli TJberti Pannoniee regis f. Neapolitanorum regi Joannse uxoris dolo laqueo necato Ursi Minutili pietate hie recondite' ; (1.) : Pope Innocent XII. (Pignatelli of Naples ; d. 1696).

In the N. Aisle, near the transept, is the Cappella de' Seripandi, adorned with an Assumption of the Virgin, by Pietro Perugino (?; 1460). — We next reach the entrance to Santa Restituta (see below). — In the 2nd chapel : Entombment, a relief by Giovanni da Nola ; above it, Unbelief of Thomas, a painting by Marco da Siena. — In the vicinity (in the nave) is the Font, an ancient basin of green basalt, with Bacchanalian thyrsi and masks.

Adjoining the cathedral on the left, and entered from it by a door in the left aisle (when closed, fee 1/2 fir.), 1S the church of "Santa Resti- tuta, a basilica with pointed arcbes, occupying the site of a temple_ of Apollo, to which it is probably indebted for the ancient Corinthian columns in the nave. This was the cathedral of Naples prior to the erection of the larger church. The foundation, erroneously attributed to Constantine the Great, dates from the 7th century. When the cathedral was built this church was shortened, and in the 17th cent, it was restored. In the Chapel S. Maria del Principio, at the end of the left aisle, is a "Mo- saic of the Virgin with St. Januarius and Sta. Restituta, restored in 1322, and considered the earliest in Naples ; whence the name 'del Principio'. On the lateral walls two remarkable bas-reliefs from an altar-screen, supposed to date from the 8th cent., each in fifteen compartments ; to the left the his-

E. Quarters. NAPLES. .3. Route. 53

tory of Joseph ; to the right above, St. Januarius, then Samson ; beneath St. George. — At the back of the high-altar the 'Virgin with St. Michael and Sta. Bestituta, by Silvestro Buono (?), a good work of a mixed Urn-

brian and Neapolitan style (forged inscription; painted after 1500).

The snjall dome of the chapel S. Giovanni in Fonte (closed) to the right, said to have been erected by Constantine in 333, formerly the baptistery of the church, is adorned with old, but frequently restored mosaics (7th cent.) of Christ, the Virgin, etc.

The principal facade of the cathedral (portal, see p. 51), which is approached by a flight of steps, looks towards the new and broad Via del Duomo (PI. F, G, 3, 4), a street diverging from the Strada Foria (p. 41) and running nearly parallel with the Toledo. Many of the densely packed houses of the old town were demolished to make way for this street, which extends down to the sea. — Adjoining the cathedral, on the right as we leave the church, is the extensive Archiepiscopal Palace (PI. G, 3), erected in the 13th cent., and en- tirely restored by Cardinal Filomarino in 1647. The principal facade looks to the Piazza Donna Regina.

In the Str. Anticaglia (PL F, G, 3) are the remains of an ancient Theatre, in which the emperor Nero appeared as an actor, once apparently of considerable extent, of which two arches still exist.

On the right in the Via del Duomo is the Falazzo Cuomo (PL G, 4), an imposing early-Renaissance building of the end of the 15th cent., erected for Ang. Como, probably by Florentine artists. The original site being in the line of the Strada del Duomo, the palace was taken down, the stones being marked, and was carefully re-erect- ed here in 1882-86, and opened as the Museo Civico Filangieri, presented to the town by Prince Gaetano Filangieri. Adm. daily 10.30- 2,'/2-l fr., Tues. & Sat. free. The detailed catalogue also contains a historical sketch of the palace and museum.

The large vestibule on the Ground Floor, adorned by mosaics by Salviati in the style of the 14th cent., contains antiques and weapons, including an Aragonese breech-loading field-piece of the 15th century. — A winding staircase ascends to the First Floor, which forms a tasteful exhibition-hall, with a gallery lighted from above. Here are artistic weapons of the 16-18th cent., two Italian chests of the 16th cent., gems, enamels (in Case xxv., Nos. 1023, 1025 are by Jean III. Penicaud. the chief Limoges master), and about 60 paintings. Among the last are: :,1489. Bern. Luini, Madonna with the donor, a lady of the Bentivoglio family; 1466. Bern. Lanini (?), Madonna; Pordeno'ne, Descent from the Cross; Spagnolelto, 1440. St. Mary of Egypt, 1455. Head of John the Baptist; San- dro Botticelli, Portrait (wrongly attributed to Dom. Ghirlandaj o) ; 14C9. J. van Eyck (?), Madonna; 1446. Tan Dyck, Crucifixion; and other Nether- landish works. — In the gallery are some fine Italian majolicas, porce- lain from Capodimonte, etc. ; silver vessels.

We now return to the Strada db' Tkibunali. After a few paces, we observe the small Piazza Qerolomini on the right, with the church of S. Filippo Neri (PI. G, 3), or de' Qerolomini, erected in 1592- 1619, and overladen with ornament, now somewhat dilapidated.

Over the principal entrance: Christ and the money-changers, a large fresco by Luca Giordano; high-altar-piece by Giovanni Bernardino Siciliano; lateral paintings by Corenzio. The sumptuous chapel of S. Filippo Neri,

54 Route 3. NAPLES. ///. The Old Town.

to the left of the high-altar, contains a ceiling-fresco by Solimena ; and that of St. Francis of Assisi (4th chap, to the left) a painting by Guido Reni. Near the latter, at the base of a pillar in the nave, is the tombstone of the learned Giambattista Vico, b. at Naples 1670, d. 1744. The sacristy (entrance to the left) contains paintings by Andrea da Salerno, Corrado, Domenichino, Salimbeni, Guido Reni, and others.

To the right, farther on, is situated S. Paolo Maggiore (PI. F, 4), approached by a lofty flight of steps, and built in 1590 by the Theatine Orimaldi on the site of an ancient temple of Castor and Pollux. The beautiful portico of the temple remained in situ till it was destroyed by an earthquake in 1688, and two Corinthian columns with part of the architrave are still to be seen. The church contains numerous decorations in marble, and paintings by Corenzio, Stanzioni, Marco da Siena, and Solimena. The Cloisters are borne by twenty-four ancient granite columns. During the Ro- man period this was the central point of the city.

In the small piazza in front of S. Paolo, on the other side of the Strada de' Tribunali, to the left, stands the church of *S. Lorenzo (PL G, 4), begun in the Gothic style by Charles I. of Anjou in 1266, to commemorate his victory over King Manfred at Benevento (p. 205), and completed by Robert I. in 1324. The site is that of the ancient Basilica Augustalis. The portal and the choir only are of the Gothic period, the nave having been almost entirely rebuilt in the 16th century. The choir, with its ambulatory and gaTland of chapels in the northern style, was probably designed by a French architect. The belfry beside the church dates from 1487.

Interior. The large picture over the chief entrance, Jesus and St. Francis, is by Tincenzo Corso. — The Coronation of King Robert by St. Louis of Toulouse, with a predella (signed), in the 7th chapel to the right is by Simone di Martino of Siena. The same chapel contains the relics of some frescoes in the Sienese style. — St. Anthony of Padua, in the chapel of that saint in the N. transept, on a gold ground, and St. Francis as the founder ot his Order (ascribed to Zingaro), in the chapel of St. Francis in the S. transept, both show traces of Flemish influence. The three statues of St. Francis, St. Lawrence, and St. Anthony, and the 'Reliefs on the high- altar are by Giovanni da Nola (1478). — In the retro-choir behind the high-altar, entering to the right, are the monuments of: (1) Catherine of Austria , first wife of Charles, Duke of Calabria (d. 1323) , with a pyra- midal canopy and adorned with mosaics ; (2) Johanna di Durazzo, daughter of Charles of Durazzo, and her husband Robert of Artois, both of whom died of poison on the same day, 20th July, 1387; below are three Virtues, above them two angels drawing aside the curtain. Then, in a closed space: (3) Mary, the young daughter of Charles of Durazzo, killed at Aversa in 1347. By the entrance of the church, on the right, is the tombstone of the naturalist Giambattista della Porta (1550-1616).

The monastery connected with the church, now used as barracks, was once the seat of the municipal authorities, a fact recalled by the coloured arms of the different Sedili, or quarters of the town, which are still above the entrance from the street. The Cloisters, which we reach by turning to the left in the entrance-passage , contain the tomb of Lu- dovico Aldemoresco, by Baboccio (1414). In 1343 Petrarch resided in this monastery; and Boccaccio, when in the church of S. Lorenzo, beheld the beautiful princess whose praises he has sung under the name of Fiam- metta.

In the direction of the Toledo, to the left, is situated S. Pietro

IV. Museum. NAPLES. 3. Route. 55

a Maiella (PL F, 4), in the Gothic style, erected by Giovanni Pi- pino di Barletta, the favourite of Charles II. (d. 1316; his tomb is in the left transept), but afterwards altered. In the adjacent monastery is established the Conservatorium of Music (R. Collegio di Musica), founded in 1537, which has sent forth a number of cele- brated composers (e.g. Bellini), and was long presided overby Mer- cadante. A number of valuable MSS. of Paesiello, Jomelli, Pergo- lese, and other eminent masters are preserved here. The adjoining Piazza di S. Maria di Costantinopoli is embellished with a Statue of Bellini. — Through the Porta Alba we reach the Piazza Dante on the Toledo (see p. 40).

IV. The Museum. In the upper part of the town , in the prolongation of the Toledo , at the point where a street leading to the Piazza Cavour diverges to the right (comp. p. 41 ; l4/4 M. from the Piazza del Ple- hiscito ; omnibus and tramway thence, see pp. 22, 23 , steam-tram- way from the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, see p. 23), rises the —

**Museo Nazionale (PL E, F, 3). It was erected in 1586 by the viceroy Duke of Ossuna as a cavalry-barrack, and in 1615 ceded by Count Lemos to the university, which was established there until 1780, when it was transferred to the Gesu Vecchio. Since 1790 it has been fitted up for the reception of the royal collection of antiquities and pictures , to which in 1816 Ferdinand I. gave the name of Museo Reale Borbonico. Here are united the collections belonging to the crown, the Farnese collection from Rome and Parma, those of the palaces of Portici and Capodimonte, and the excavated treas- ures of Herculaneum, Pompeii, Stabiae, and Cumse. These united collections now form one of the finest in the world; the Pompeian antiquities and objects of art in particular, as well as the bronzes from Herculaneum, are unrivalled. +

The present director is Oiulio de Petra, t<j whose predecessor Giuseppe Fiorelli is due the general arrangement of the museum as it now stands. Unimportant alterations are , however, still occasionally made, so that it is impossible to give here an ab- solutely accurate enumeration of the contents. No Catalogue has yet been published except for the coins, the weapons, and the in- scriptions; but we may mention the ' Guide General du Musee National' which has been published by Dom. Monaco, the con- servator of the museum, and which will be found useful in several respects (sold at the book-shops, price 5 fr.).

The Entrance is in the street leading from the Toledo to the Piazza Cavour, opposite the Galleria Principe di Napoli (p. 41).

t The following letters indicate the origin of the different objects; B. Borgia collection, C. Capua, G. A. Amphitheatre of Capua, Cu. Cumse, F. Farnese collection, H. Herculaneum, L. Lucera, M. Minturnse, N. Naples, P. Pompeii, Pz. Pozzuoli, S. Stabise.

56 Route 3. NAPLES. IV. Museum.

The Museum is open daily, except on national holidays (see p. xxii), May to Oct. 9-3, Nov. to April 10-4 o'clock ; on Sundays (10-1) gratis, on other days admission 1 ft. ; gratuities forbidden. Sticks and umbrellas must be given up at the Oarderobe, to the left in the gateway. Tickets are obtained on the right; pass-out checks are supplied to visitors temporarily leaving the Museum for lunch, etc. The officials, most of whom speak French, readily give information.

Permission to copy or study , which is always accorded to artists and archaeologists, is obtained by strangers on showing their passports at the Segreteria (entered by the second door, on the third floor; public en- trance to the library on the first floor, p. 74), where a similar permission may be procured for Pompeii and Psestnm. Free tickets for Pompeii (p. 119) are also to be had here.

The following is a sketch of the general arrangements : —

A. Gkoond Floor (comp. Plan, p. 70). Right Side : Ancient Frescoes (see below) ; beyond them, Inscriptions and several large sculptures (p. 5J); then the Canova Room; Chinese Collection (p. 61); Egyptian Antiquities (p. 61). Left Side : Ancient Marble Staines (p. 61); beyond them, the Large Bronzes (P- 67).

B. Entresol.

Right Side: Ancient Frescoes (p. 69); Ancient Terracottas (p. 69). Left Side: Cumaean Antiquities (p. 70); Renaissance Objects (p. 70); En- gravings (p. 70).

C. TJppek Flook (comp. Plan, p. 71). Right Side: Copies of Pompeian Pictures (p. 70), Articles of Food from Pompeii (p. 71); Papyri (p. 71); Pictures (p. 71; 1st section). Immediately opposite: Library (p. 74).

Left Side: Ancient Glass (p. 74); Coins (p. 74) ; Pictures (p. 74; Neapolitan

and foreign); Museum Santangelo (p. 76) and Vases (p. 76);

Small Bronzes (p. 78); Qold and Silver Ornaments and Gems

(p. 79).

The following description begins with the right or E. side of each floor.

A. Ground Floor.

Leaving the entrance-gateway, we pass through a glass-door, where tickets are given up, into a large Vestibule with sev- eral ancient statues from the Farnese collection. At the end of the vestibule are the stairs ascending to the upper floors (pp. 70 et seq.). — The following are the most interesting statues in the vestibule : On the right, by the entrance, Alexander Severus ; left, a Melpomene from the theatre of Pompey at Rome, erroneously restored as Urania. By the staircase, right, Flora ; left, Genius of the city of Rome. At each of the two doors leading to the court are four figures with the toga; by the staircase two river-gods.

The ** Collection of Ancient Frescoes (Affreschi Pompeiani) from Herculaneum , Pompeii, Stabiffi, etc., which we first visit, occupies the right half of the ground-floor. These paintings oc- cupy seven rooms and a corridor , being grouped in accordance with their subjects, and each group is furnished with a" Roman numeral. These works (along with those found at Rome) are, with

Ground Floor, E. NAPLES. 3. Route. 57

the exception of painted vases and mosaics, almost the only spe- cimens of ancient painting which have come down to us, and are therefore of extreme value. They are our sole informants with regard to the ancient style, colouring, and treatment of light and shade. Many of them are beautifully conceived, and executed with an easy, masterly touch, and they include landscapes , historical and mytho- logical subjects , genrepaintings, architectural drawings, and animal and fruit-pieces. Although mere decorative paintings of a small provincial Roman town, they suffice to show how thoroughly the profession was imbued with artistic principles . Some of the represen- tations may be copies from celebrated or favourite pictures, but the style is such as entirely to preclude the idea that they were mechanic- ally copied or stencilled. The rapid, easy execution and absence of minute detail prove that they were intended for effect, and not for close inspection. Their state of preservation of course varies greatly (comp. Introd., pp. xli-xlv).

I. Room (immediately to the right of the place where tickets are given up ; 1st door), a long corridor : Architectural mural decorations. Those on the left side, the farther end, and the farther part of the right wall are nearly all from the Temple of Isis at Pompeii.

II. Room : Animals, fruit, still-life, attributes of gods, etc. — We now return through the 1st Room to the principal collection.

The following rooms contain the mythological and genre re- presentations. Their enumeration is in the order denoted by the Roman numerals above on the walls.

III. Room : xv. *Girl gathering flowers. Two heads of Medusa, xvi-xviii. Sea-gods. In the corner a *Nereid on a sea-panther. By the window-wall Rape of Hylas by the nymphs ; Phryxus and Helle ; the Three Divisions of the Globe. Two glazed tables exhibit a well-arranged collection of colours found at Pompeii, xx. Sacrifice to the Lares : in the centre the genius of the family sacrificing, while a servant brings the swine destined as the offering ; on the right and left, two Lares; the two serpents on the altar symbolize the Lares (comp. p. 122). — Beneath, Bacchanalian scenes. — xxi, xxii. Sacrifice to Isis and scenes in the Egyptian style, from the Temple of Isis at Pompeii. — In the passage to the following room : xxiv. Ulysses carrying off the Palladium from Troy ; under it, Scipio and the dying Sophonisbe. — In the second passage: xxvi. *Medea brooding over the murder of her children ; below , Medea with her children and their tutor. Opposite: xxvii. Meleagerand Atalante.

IV. Room : (1.) xxviii. *Hercules supported by Priapus and Omphale. xxviii, xxix. Perseus releasing Andromeda, xxx. (be- low) Hercules, Dejanira, and the Centaur Nessus. xxxi. *Hercules finding his infant son Telephus suckled by the hind ; the dignified figure on the rock represents Arcadia in the guise of a local deity (from Herculaneum). Wounded ./Eneas. — In the passage to the room of the mosaics : xxxii. The infant Hercules strangling the

58 Route 3. NAPLES. IV. Museum.

snakes sent by Juno, xxxiii. *Four important scenes from Hercula- neum : Triumphant actor, with his mask exhibited as a votive offer- ing; Achilles and Antilochus (or Patroclus); Concert; Attiring of a bride. Also genre-scenes from Pompeii (woman painting, etc.). — xxxiv. Admetus and Alcestis receiving the answer of the oracle. — In the passage : xxxv. Comedy scenes, xxxvi. Chastisement of Dirce (same subject as the Farnese Bull, p. 60). Phsedra and Hippolytus. Cimon nourished from the breast of his daughter Pero (a favourite subject with modern artists, known as 'Caritas Romana'). — xxxvii. Theseus after the slaughter of the Minotaur, xxxviii. Scenes from the forum of Pompeii : in the centre, School (chastisement of a pupil); Baker's Shop; Small caricature of iEneas, Anchises, and Ascanius, represented with dogs' heads ; pensive maiden. Several admirable busts of youthful subjects, two of which (to the left), representing a Pompeian baker and his wife, recur more than once, xxxix. *Abduction of Briseis from the tent of Achilles. *Achilles being taught the lyre by Chiron. Ulysses unrecognised by Penelope. Achilles recognised at Scyros. — xl. Sacrifice of Iphigenia, who raises her hands supplicating assistance from Artemis, visible among the clouds. *Orestes and Pylades in presence of Iphigenia at Tauris. — Adjacent to this room is the —

V. Room. * Mosaics. In the centre, on the floor : Fettered lion amid Cupids and Bacchanalian figures , from the House of the Centaur at Pompeii (p. 138). — On the entrance-wall, by the pillar : Theseus with the slain Minotaur, three copies. Farther on, towards the window: in the centre, actor trained by a poet; above, skull, and other symbols, found on a table in a triclinium at Pompeii ; on the left and right comedy scenes (by Dioscurides of Samos, according to the inscription) ; a partridge ; two cocks after the fight. — Under the window : Animals of Egypt (which served as a threshold in front of the mosaic of the Battle of Alexander). Above, two doves (recently found in Pompeii) ; lion and tiger. — Farther on, opposite the entrance: *Acratus (companion of Bacchus) riding on a lion ; below, *Garland with masks ; on the left, parrots ; on the right, a wild cat with a partridge, and fish, all excellent mosaics from the house of the Faun (p. 135); in the niches, four mosaic-pillars from Pompeii (p. 141). - — Farther on, a chained dog with the warning 'Cave Canem' (from the threshold of the 'House of the Tragic Poet', p. 136). — Right wall : a large niche, probably intended for a fountain; above it, Phryxus and Helle; on the left, the Graces, the marriage of Neptune and Amphitrite; on the right, quarrel of Achilles and Agamemnon. ■ — We now re- trace our steps, and follow the arrangement of the pictures, which is continued through the passages from the 3rd Room to the 6th, which adjoins it on the other side.

VI. Room: In the two passages, beginning next the window: xli-xliv. Rope-dancing Satyrs, *Hovering Centaurs, *Dancing Sa-

Ground Floor, E. NAPLES. 3. Route. 59

tyrs and Bacchantes, etc. ■ — Farther on; xlv. *Representations of Cupid ('Cupids for sale !'). xlvi. Marriage of Zephyrus and Chloris(Lat. Flora), xlvii. The Graces, xlviii. Diana and Endymion (repeated several times) ; Diana with a how, in a pensive attitude (pendant to the 'Girl gathering flowers' in Room III). — By the window to the left : xlix. Venus and Mars, several representations. Venus and Cupids, lii. Triumphal procession of Bacchus. Bacchus and Ariadne. — *liii. Dancers.

VII. Room : lviii-lix. More ancient paintings from the tomhs of Ruvo, Gnatia, Paestum, Capua : lviii. Mercury as conductor of the dead. Funeral dance. Iix. Samnite warriors in full armour, from Paestum (p. 168). Gorgon head with Messapian inscription. — lx. Narcissus in different attitudes, lxi-lxiii and lxv-lxvii. Land- scapes from Pompeii, Herculaneum, and Stabife. lxviii. *Vulcan showing Thetis the arms of Achilles (twice), lxx. Jupiter crown- ed by Victoria, lxxi. Io's arrival in Egypt (Egypt being re- presented by Isis). *Jupiter and Juno on Mount Ida. Io watched by Argus. Mercury giving the Syrinx to Argus, lxxii. Five *Draiv- ings on Marble (monochromic) from Herculaneum : Achilles (?) in a quadriga ; (Edipus with Antigone and Ismene (?) ; Latona with Niobe and other women of Cadmus playing at dice (pur- porting to be by Alexandros of Athens); Scene from a tragedy. Theseus rescuing the bride of Pirithous from a Centaur ?). Similar drawing from Pompeii : Fragment of a representation of the fate of Niobe and her children.

To the above collection belongs a corridor (entered from the vestibule of the Galleria Lapidaria, or by the 3rd door in the great vestibule) containing * Ornamental Paintings (Affreschi Orna- mental!) from Pompeii and Herculaneum, being mural decorations, some of them with raised stucco designs and reliefs. They are executed with taste and precision and deserve careful inspection. In the semicircular space, lxxxii. Valuable collection of decorative masks. Pillar with paintings from the 'Fullonica' at Pompeii (p. 137), showing the different processes of the handicraft. The owl is the symbol of Minerva the tutelary goddess of fullers, lxxxiv. *Fragments of a wall from Herculaneum.

The two large central glass-doors of the vestibule on the right and left lead into Courts, filled with reliefs, statues, and architectural frag- ments, many of which deserve the notice of connoisseurs.

The two parallel long rooms in the E. wing, entered from the collection of ornamental paintings, contain the * Gallery of Inscriptions (Oalleria Lapidaria). The collection comprises up- wards of 2000 Latin inscriptions, others in Oscan and other dia- lects, on stone andbronze tablets, and engraved (graffiti) and painted (dipinti) mural inscriptions from Pompeii. The collection is ar- ranged in accordance with the geographical situation of the different localities of discovery, and consists chiefly of epitaphs, but also includes laudatory and other inscriptions. — To the left of the

60 Route 3. NAPLES. IV. Museum.

passage from the front to the back (principal) room, is a statue of Tiberius , to the right Atreus with the Son of Thyestes (?, comp. Introd., p. xxxvi).

The principal room contains among other antiquities, immediately to the right, inscriptions in Oscan and other Italian dialects, of which No. 113,398 is that mentioned at p. 125 as found in the temple of Apollo at Pompeii. Among the bronze tables are, at the end of the room to the right, near the Hercules, the celebrated Tables of Heracleafo. 214; No. 2480), bearing on one side regulations as to temple-lands in the ancient Greek language, and on the other (in- scribed at a later date) the Italian municipal laws promulgated by Caesar in B. 0. 46. — At the window opposite the entrance and at the left end of the room, to the left of the Farnese Bull, are two marble tables , with oval hollows serving as the Municipal Standards of Measurement for grain and vegetables; the former from Minturnae, the latter from the Forum at Pompeii (p. 126). — Several leaden pipes from aqueducts, etc., with inscriptions.

At the ends of this room are placed the Famese Hercules and the Farnese Bull, two celebrated works of antiquity, formerly in the possession of the Farnese family.

The so-called * Farnese Hercules, was found in 1540 in the Thermae of Caracalla at Rome. The legs were at first wanting, but were restored by Delia Porta ; twenty years later the missing por- tions were discovered and were restored to the statue. The end of the nose, the left hand, and part of the left arm are new.

The hero holds in his right hand the golden apples of the Hesperides, the sign of his successful accomplishment of the eleventh of the labours imposed on him by King Eurystheus, and leans, faint and weary, on his club. The conception differs wholly from the triumphant victor of the early legend, and would alone stamp the work as one of a comparatively recent period. This conclusion is strengthened by the mannerism appa- rent in the over-strained effort to express great muscular strength. Ac- cording to the inscription, it is the work of the Athenian Glycon, and was probably executed under the early emperors , possibly on the model of a statue by Lysippus.

The celebrated group of the **Farnese Bull, a work of the Rho- dian sculptors Apollonius and Tauriscus , once in possession of Asinius Pollio, was also found in 1546 in the Thermae of Caracalla in a sadly mutilated condition. The restoration of the group was superintended by Michael Angelo. The two sons of Antiope, Am- phion and Zethus, avenge the wrongs of their mother by binding Dirce, who had treated her with the greatest cruelty for many years, to the horns of a wild bull. Antiope in the background exhorts them to forgiveness. The boldness and life of the group, originally hewn out of a single block of marble , is unrivalled in any other work of the same character (comp. Introd., pp. xxxiv- xxxvi). The new parts are the head of the bull, the Antiope, with the exception of the feet, the upper parts of Dirce and considerable portions of Amphion and Zethus.

Ground Floor, W. NAPLES. 3. Route. 61

We return to the front room of inscriptions, at the end of which is a space with a staircase descending to the floor below. To the left opens the Canova Room, so called from three colossal statues by Canova, of Napoleon I, his mother Laetitia, and Ferdinand IV. It also contains three busts of Pope Paul III. Farnese (10 517. un- finished, and 10514. attributed to Michael Angelo; 10521. by Gugl. delta Porta?), a St. Francis of Assisi and a statue of Modesty, by J. Sammartino, a Head of the Medusa, after Canova, and some antique busts of the Eoman imperial epoch.

We descend the staircase mentioned above to the Lower Floor. Room I. Casts from hieroglyphic? (*t the window, relief of asses' heads). Room II. eontains antique inscriptions and the Chinese Collections, including a magni- ficent vessel in carved ivory. Passing next through an empty room (III) and Room IV. containing Christian Inscriptions, from the catacombs of Rome and Naples (built into the walls), we reach the —

Egyptian Antiquities. — Room V. In the centre, Serapis, found in the vestibule of the Serapeum at Pozzuoli. Isis, a marble statuette from the temple of Isis at Pompeii, holding a sistrum and key of the Nile, with interesting traces of gilding and painting. Coffin-lids. On the short wall, Horus with a dog's head. The cabinets contain a valuable collection of small statuettes. — Room VI. In the centre: by the window, a granite tombstone with twenty two figures in relief and hieroglyphics. Egyptian priest, a so-called Pastophorus1, in black basalt. By the walls six glass cabinets with various kinds of trinkets, etc. To the right of the entrance, the second immured tablet is the so-called 'Table of Isis1, from the temple of Isis at Pompeii. By the windowwall a papyrus with Greek writing, dating from the 2nd or 3rd cent., which with forty others was found at Memphis in a chest of sycamore wood, and contains names of the canal - labourers on the Nile. Opposite the entrance a number of mummies of men, women, and children , some of them divested of their cerements and admirably preserved (the skull of a female mummy still retains the hair). Also the mummy of a crocodile. Marble bust of Ptolemy V.

The left (W.) half of the ground-floor contains the valuable col- lection of marble sculptures and the bronzes.

The ** Collection of Marble Sculptures occupies the great corridor with three branches, and the rooms situated beyond the second branch. The new arrangement in accordance with the local and historical position of the works is practically complete. It is best to begin with the N. corridor (third door on the left from the vestibule), the —

Corridor of the Masterpieces (Portico dei Capolavori), which contains the finest works in the collection , affording a review of the development of the ancient plastic art from the 5th cent. B.C. down to the reign of Hadrian and his successors. This part of the collection in particular supplies the visitor with an admirable illustration of the history of ancient art, and includes moreover several works of the highest merit.

On the right : — * Orestes and Electra, a group which has given rise to much discussion, probably belonging to the revived archaic style introduced by Pasiteles towards the end of the republic (In- trod., p. xxxvi). — Pallas, archaic style, from Herculaneum. — Artemis, an archaistic statuette found at Pompeii, with numerous traces of painting (gold on the rosettes of the headdress, red on the

62 Route 3. NAPLES. IV. Museum.

edges of the robe, the quiver-hand, and the sandals). — * Venus of Capua, found at Capua in the middle of the 18th century.

It is uncertain how this statue, which greatly resembles the Venus of Milo in the Louvre, ought to be restored. The arms, the nose, and part of the mantle are modern. On Corinthian coins Venus, the tutelary goddess of the city, is represented in a similar attitude, in the act of using a shield as a mirror, but it is possible that the Capuan statue had a figure of Mars standing beside her, from whom she was taking his sword. The statue is held to be a work of the Koman period (as the representation oi the pupil of the eye indicates), but was probably a copy of a Greek original.

Adonis, freely restored. — Athlete, from the palaestra of Pompeii, the left hand missing, as in other examples of the same statue ; it is supposed to be a replica of the Doryphorus of Polycleius; comp. Introd., p. xxxiv.

*Homer, a beautiful bust, the finest of all the ideal repre- sentations of the poet.

'I must own that nothing has ever given me a higher idea of Grecian sculpture, than the fact that it has been able to conceive and represent these features. A blind poet and minstrel — nothing more — was given. And starting with this simple theme the artist has made the aged brow and cheek instinct with supernatural mental effort and prophetic inspiration, combined with that perfect serenity which ever characterises the blind. Each stroke of the chisel is full of genius and marvellous vitality'. — Burckhardt.

Ill the middle : — *Harmodius and Aristogeiton (head of Aristo- geiton ancient, but originally belonging to some other statue).

After the expulsion of Hippias in 510 B. C. the Athenians erected in the Agora statues of Harmodius and Aristogeiton, the slayers of the tyrant Hipparchus. This group, the work of Anterior, was carried away by Xerxes in 480 and replaced in 478 by another executed by Critias and JVesiotes. The original statues were afterwards restored to Athens by Alexander the Great or one of his successors, and the two groups stood side by side in the market-place, where they were seen by Pausanias the historian (2nd cent, of our era). The statues in the museum are a copy of one or other of these groups, both of which were in bronze and pro- bably alike in all essential details. — Comp. Introd., p. xxxiii.

Dying Amazon, Dead Persian, Dead Oiant (or Gaul?), and Wounded Gaul, of the Pergamenian school.

King Attalus I. of Pergamus, having in 239 B. C. gained a decisive victory over the Gauls who had invaded Mysia, erected on the Acropolis at Athens four groups of marble statues as a votive offering for his deliver- ance. These represented the triumph of civilisation and culture over brute force, as typified in the contests of the Gods and the Giants, the Athenians and the Amazons, the Athenians and Persians at Marathon, and lastly of Attalus himself and the Celts. They have been described by Pausanias (see above). The statues in this museum are undoubtedly parts of the original monument, and there are other figures from it at Eome and Venice. The time when they were brought to Italy is unknown, but cannot have been sooner than the capture of Athens by the Crusaders in 1205. (The exquisite reliefs recently discovered at Pergamus and now at Berlin were erected by Attalus in his own capital in commemoration of the same victory.

Venus Callipygus , so called from that part of her body towards which she is looking, found in the imperial palaces at Rome; the head, breast, right leg, right hand, and left arm are modern. — *Satyr, carrying the child Bacchus on his shoulder.

On the left, a Pugilist (from Sorrento) and four busts: Anto- ninus Pius. — *Hera (Farnese Juno), a grand head in the early style,

Ground Floor, W. NAPLES. 3. Route. 63

austere in expression (Introd., p. xxxii); it is a replica of a bronze original, in -which the eyes were of some other material, and was intended to be joined to a statue. — Caracalla, Faustina.

The adjacent room to the right contains at the entrance , to the right, Brutus and Pompey, two busts found in a house in Pom- peii in 1869 ; a large basin in porphyry, torsi, dogs, leopards, boar sacrifices, and fragment of a gigantic figure resembling the Per- gamenian sculptures at Berlin.

Farther on to the Tight in the principal room: Head of a Woman. — *Aeschines, the Athenian orator (389-314 B. C.) and champion of Philip of Macedon against Demosthenes , a statue found in the Villa of the Papyri at Herculaneum.

Though the drapery is inferior to that of the admirable statue of Sophocles in the Lateran Collection at Rome, there is little doubt that this is a copy of an old Greek original. It was once erroneously called Aristides, but its resemblance to the herma of iEschines with his name attached at the Vatican proves its identity.

Pallas, archaistic, from Velletri. — Juno. — *Torso of Bacchus, a genuine Greek work. — * Psyche of Capua, sadly mutilated ; she was probably represented with her hands bound behind her, being tormented by Cupid, but the state in which the figure now is makes certainty on this point impossible. — * Torso of Venus, another genuine Greek work, probably not much more recent than the "Venus of Cnidus by Praxiteles (4th cent. B.C.).

In the middle : — Nereid, on a sea-monster. — Sitting portrait- figure of a Roman lady (not Agrippina). Antinous. the favourite of Hadrian.

The Cokbiboe. op Portrait Statues and Busts, which we next enter, is also called the Portico dei Balbi, from the honorary statues of the family of that name, the most distinguished at Hercu- laneum, erected in the theatres by the Municipal council.

Near the ends of the corridor: 6211 (N. end), 6104 (S. end), Equestrian Statues of M. Nonius Balbus and his Son (of the same name) 'praetor and proconsul', found in the Basilica of Hercula- neum. — The following description begins with the N. end. On the end-wall,, several Dacians from the forum of Trajan at Rome; to the right and left: Genre figures of children ; Sacrificing swine. — On the left (E.) wall, Portrait statues from Herculaneum and Pom- peii, arranged in groups of five. In the first group : 6234. Orator from Pompeii ; 6232. Statue of the Priestess Eumachia of Pompeii, erected in her honour by the fullers. In the second group: 6231. Orator from Pompeii; *6167. M. Nonius Balbus, the father; *6168. Viciria Archais, the wife of Balbus, a stately matron. Farther on (6242-6249), her son and four daughters, on the same pedestal (a fifth daughter of the group is in the Dresden Museum). — On the right (W.) wall, again beginning at the N. end, Roman Portrait-busts, in two sections. In the first section, loweT row : 6190. Agrippina the Younger, mother of Nero; second section, lower

64 Route 3. NAPLES. IV. Museum.

row: 6185-87. Three examples of a so-called Seneca (perhaps Cal- limachus?); 111,386. Drusus the Younger. Most of the other busts are either unknown or erroneously named. — The Hall of Flora, containing the Battle of Alexander, here opens to the right (see p. 65), on the entrance to which : Two barbarians as supporters, in pavonazzetto, the heads and hands in basalt ; in the entrance, to the left: 6414. Euripides, and 6415. Socrates, a henna with a Greek inscription ; to the right, 6412. Head of an athlete (Dory- phoros), and 6413. Homer. — Opposite the entrance to the Flora room, in the middle of the corridor of the Balbi: 6236. Double herma of an unknown Greek and Roman, and 6239. Double henna of Herodotus and Thucydides. Between these , two sitting sta- tuettes, one of them representing the poet Moschion. — Farther on, by the right wall of the corridor, are Greek Busts, in two sec- tions. In the first section, above: 6158. Ptolemy Soter(f), 6149. Demetrius Poliorcetes (Y), 6150. Pyrrhus, 6156. Archidamus; below: 6166. Demosthenes, 6161, 6160, 6135. Euripides, 6139. Periander, 6188. Vestal Virgin (V) ; in the second section, above : 6146. Hero- dotus, 6130. Lysias, 6133. Sophocles, 6142. Poseidon, 6131. Car- neades, 6129. Socrates, 6128. Zeno, 6117. Aratus , the astrono- mer; below : 6143. Solon. — At the S. end, in the middle, a hunter; several portrait-statues : 6233. Statue of Marcus Holconius Bufus, a Roman military tribune, and five times mayor of Pompeii.

We now pass by the statue of the younger Balbus into the —

Corked ob. of the Roman Emperors (Portico degli Jmperatori), the arrangement of which begins at the farther end, by the en- trance from the large vestibule. It contains statues and busts in chronological order, of a more or less ideal character. Most of the heads are modern plaster casts, attached to the ancient torsos in a very haphazard manner , so that the names affixed have little authority. No. 6038, a colosssal *Bust of Caesar, is genuine, but there is no authentic Augustus. 6041. Livia (a misnomer), and 6044. Marcellus, nephew of Augustus, both from the Macellum at Pompeii. 16,045. Livia. Opposite: 6055. 109,516. Drusus, son of Tiberius. 6058. Nero, wrongly so called. 6060. Claudius, not Galba. 6073. Not Trajan.

The Seven Rooms beyond the Portico dei Balbi also have their contents arranged according to subjects. Among much that is mediocre there are a few works of great excellence. The ar- rangement begins with the gods, in the room opposite the en- trance to the collection of bronzes (p. 67).

I. Room : Jupiter, Juno, Apollo, Diana, Ceres. In the centre, 6281. Apollo, in a sitting posture, in porphyry, the head and hands in marble ; a work of the decline of art during the imperial period, when a taste prevailed for rare kinds of stone which were difficult to work. Right: 6278. Diana of Ephesus, in yellow alabaster, the head, hands, and feet in bronze ; her symbols indicate the fecundity

Ground Floor, W. NAPLES. 3. Route. 65

of the goddess of nature. Left: 6262. Apollo, in basalt. Posterior wall: *6266. Jupiter, a bust from the temple of Pompeii (p. 126); 6267. Jupiter, colossal half-statue from Cumae ; 6268. Juno ; on the right, 6274. Bust of the ram-horned Jupiter Amnion.

II. Room : Venus, Mars, Mercury, Minerva, Bacchus. Among the numerous Statues of Venus (eight of them from Pompeii, in- cluding 109,608* and 111,387, interesting from being painted, and 6294, a statue from the Temple of Apollo mentioned at p. 125) are several with portrait-heads. 6302. Mercury ; to the left, *Aphro- dite, after Alcamenes. In the centre, 6323. Mars, sitting.

III. Room : Satyrs, Ganymede, Cupid, Cybele, etc. — Left : Satyr with a bunch of grapes; *6329. Pan teaching Daphnis the flute. — 6351, 6355. Ganymede with the eagle; 6352. Hermaphrodite, from Pompeii; *6353. Winged Cupid, supposed to be a replica of an original by Praxiteles. In the centre : 6375. Cupid encircled by a dolphin, fountain-figure; 6374. Atlas, with the globe. — 6358. Paris; *6360. JUsculapius, from Rome. — On the short wall : Masks of rivergods, once used as water-spouts. 6365. Nymph at the bath. Three Priestesses of Isis. 6369,6371. Cybele, themotherof the gods.

IV. Room : Statues of Muses from Herculaneum and Rome ; several figures of Hercules. By the window, 6390. Head of Ajax. In the centre, 6405. Amazon, falling from her horse ; 6407. Eques- trian Figure, the opponent of the last; *6406. Hercules and Omphale, with each other's attributes, a group in the genre style.

V. Hall of the Flora. By the principal wall : *6409. The Farnese Flora, found in the Baths of Caracalla at Rome, at the same time as the Hercules and the Bull (p. 60). It is probably a work of the early Roman empire, when the dubious taste for repro- ducing smaller Greek originals on a colossal scale had already manifested itself. The figure, however, is charming in spite of its huge proportions. As the head, arms, and feet were missing when the statue was found, and were restored by Giacomo della Porta, and afterwards by Albaccini and Taglioni, it is not improbable that the figure once represented a Venus instead of a Flora. It has also been suggested that it may be a 'Hora', a 'Dancing Muse', or a 'Hebe'. — In the floor in front of it is the **Mosaic of the Battle of Alexander, found in 1831 in the house of the Faun at Pompeii. This work, which is almost the only ancient historical composition in exist- ence, represents the battle at the moment when Alexander, whose helmet has fallen from his head, charges Darius with his cavalry, and transfixes the general of the Persians who has fallen from his wounded horse. The chariot of the Persian monarch is prepared for retreat, whilst in the foreground a Persian of rank, in order to ensure the more speedy escape of the king, who is absorbed in thought at the sight of his expiring general, offers him his horse (Introd. p. xliv). — Also four statues of gladiators.

VI. Room : Reliefs. In the centre, *6673. a beautiful Marble

Baedeker. Italy III. 11th Edition. 5

66 Route 3. NAPLES. IV. Museum.

Vase -with a relief : Mercury, followed by dancing Bacchanalia] figures, gives the young Bacchus to a nymph to he brought up According to the inscription it is the work of a certain Salpion o Athens ; it was found at Formia , and was long used at the har hour there as a post for fastening boat-ropes to (of which traces an still distinct), then as a font in the cathedral of Gaeta (comp. In trod., p. xxxvi). The traditions of a more archaic style have beei applied here with great adroitness. — To the left of the entrance also on a pedestal, 6670. a fountain-enclosure with seven gods Jupiter, Mars, Apollo, iEsculapius, Bacchus, Hercules, and Mer- cury. There are also three other fountain-enclosures in the centre — By the wall, to the left of the entrance, 6556. an early Attii Stele, of the middle of the 5th century. Then 6672, a beautifu Trapezophorus (pedestal of a table), with Centaur and Scylla. — By the walls : Sarcophagi, Fountain Masks, and numerous Oscilla or reversible marble discs and masks, which used to be hung up h] way of ornament between the columns of peristyles. The glass- case to the right contains Fountain Figures, Hernial Heads, anc other small figures.

VII. Room : Reliefs. Left : *6682. Aphrodite, seconded by Peithc (persuasion), endeavouring to induce Helen to follow Paris (Alexan- dres), who with Cupid stands before her, a Greek work; 6684 Bacchanal ; *6688. Youth with three maidens, usually termed Apolli with the Graces (or Alcibiades with three hetserae) ; 6693. Sarcopha- gus : Bacchanalian procession. — On the pillar between the win- dows : 6704. Gladiator contests from Pompeii; 6705. Sarco- phagus with Prometheus and man as yet uninspired with life, surrounded by beneficent gods. — Third wall : 6715. Foot of i table (?), framed with Caryatides ; to the right, fragment of ar Old "Woman in a crouching attitude. Above: *6713. BanchetU d'Icario, i. e. Dionysus, or the elder, bearded Indian Bacchus feasting with the Attic prince Icarius , the legendary founder o the Satyric drama ('Drama Satyrikon'); the train of the god includes the muse Melpomene, Silenus, and several Satyrs. Above: Cupids in the circus. — 6724. Nymph defending herself against a satyr, 6725. The Graces, Euphrosyne, Aglaia, and Thalia, and four othei figures, named Ismene, Cycais, Eranno, and Telonnesus. Below: *6726. Bacchanalian procession. *6727. Orpheus and Eurydice, wit! Hermes, in the infernal regions (see Introd., p. xxxiii). — Fourtl wall : Sarcophagi. 6753, 6757, 6763. Three representations of Asiatic provinces. — In the centre : 6780. Honorary Pedestal from Poz- zuoli , with figures representing fourteen towns of Asia Minoi which the Emp. Tiberius rebuilt after an earthquake, each figure being furnished with its name. In the middle, two large Cande- labra, with herons, and two Bacchic * Vases.

In the adjoining Passage are handsome ornamental works in marble : *Tables with basins for fountains ; candelabra , among

Ground Floor, W. NAPLES. 3. Route. 67

which is a *Stooping Sphinx from Pompeii ; feet of tables ; tables. — From this passage we again enter the Portico dei Balbi (see p. 63). At the S. end of the Portico dei Balbi is the entrance to the **Collection of Bronzes, most of which are from Herculaneum, and a few only from Pompeii. Their respective origins are distinguished by their different colours, due to different methods of treatment. The bronzes of Herculaneum are of a dark, black-green hue, while those of Pompeii are oxydised and of a light, bluish-green colour. This collection is unrivalled, and deserves careful and re- peated inspection. The number and magnitude of the works, the delicate treatment adapted to the material, and the skilful mastery of every kind of difficulty in casting and chiselling afford an ex- cellent insight into the high development of this branch of art in ancient times.

I. Room : Animals. In the middle : *4904. Horse from Hercu- laneum, belonging to a quadriga , and reconstructed from minute fragments. — By the back wall : *4887. Colossal Horse's Head, found at Naples , formerly in the Palazzo Santangelo. It belonged to a horse which is said to have stood in the vestibule of the temple of Neptune (S. Gennaro), and to have been converted into a bell by the archbishop on account of the superstitious veneration with, which it was regarded. 4886,4888. Two Deer. 4899-4901. Boar, attacked by two dogs. Several animals once used as fountain- figures. — At the entrance, on the right, 4896. So-called Sappho ; opposite, 4895. Diana Shooting, a half-figure from the Temple of Apollo at Pompeii. Opposite the entrance , 4892. Mercury, in a sitting posture. — To the left of the right entrance to the following room: 110,663. Herma of L, Caecilius Jucundus , a Pompeian banker (see p. 71), erected by his freedman Felix. — Beside the other entrance, through which we pass, Bust of a lady, perhaps a member of the family of the emperor Claudius.

II. Room: Statuettes. In the centre: 4995. Bacchus with a Satyr (eyes inserted). 5000. Boy with goose. — Behind the last: 111701. Winged boy with a dolphin. — Infront: **5003. So-called Narcissus perhaps a Pan listening to Echo, one of the most charming antique statues extant, both in conception and execution, found in an un- pretending private house at Pompeii in 1862. *1 11,495. Satyr with a wine-skin, a fountain-figure found at Pompeii in 1879. *5002. Dancing Faun, marking the time by snapping his fingers found at Pompeii (p. 135). *5001. Silenus, used as the bearer of a vase (with handle very unsuitably made in imitation of the body of a serpent) found at Pompeii in 1864 ; the air of exertion is admirably lifelike. — In the corners of the room : by the entrance, to the left, and by the opposite exit, two Oreek Hermae , perhaps intended for a pa- laestra, the projecting props being for the support of wreaths. The first passes for an Amazon, the second (Head of aDoryphoros) bears the name of the sculptor, Apollonius, son of Archias of Athens.

5*

68 Route 3. NAPLES. IV. Museum.

The -window-cabinet contains, above, a number of Boys with wine- skins, vessels, and masks, once used as fountain-figures. Silenus ■with a panther. Below : 4997. Flying Victory, on a globe ; 4993. Boy with lamp; *4998. Venus arranging her hair, originally with a mirror in her left hand. In the middle, 110,127. bust of Galba, in silver; 5009. Youthful Bacchus; two equestrian statuettes : 4999. Amazon, 4996. Alexander the Great; 4994. Angler, a fountain- figure. — In the cabinet to the right beyond the window are Fancy Figures, chiefly gladiators. Small Busts: Demosthenes, Epicurus, Zeno, Augustus. Hands with quaint emblems, used as amulets to avert the danger of the 'evil eye'. Above these, Lares (household gods), youths adorned with wreaths and bearing drinking-horns and vases, and Genius Familiaris. — Opposite the window: Stat- uettes of Gods: Hercules, Victoria, Fortuna, Bacchus, Mercury, Minerva, Jupiter, etc. — Wall of the entrance : Etruscan Mirrors, the backs adorned with engraved scenes.

III. Principal Room. In the centre: *5628. Drunken Faun. On each side(Nos. 5627, 5626), Two statues of Wrestlers about to engage. Beyond these, to the right : *5630. Apollo playing the lyre, from Pompeii, a work of the archaistic school of Pasiteles, about the begin- ning of the Empire (p. xxxvi) ; to the left, 5629. Apollo Shooting, from the Temple of Apollo at Pompeii (a companionpiece to No. 4895, p. 67). Before the last, to the right : **5625. Mercury Reposing, a beautiful picture of elastic youth at a moment of relaxation ; the wings attached to the feet and the remains of the caduceus in the hand identify the messenger of the gods. To the left : *5624. Sleeping Satyr. — Along the walls, beginning at the door on the left: Herma of C. Norbanus Sorex. from the temple of Isis at Pompeii. Then a series of fine Greek *Portrait-heads : 5588. Unknown. The following heads , as far as the opposite door, are believed to be portraits of the Ptolemies : 5590. Seleucus Nicator; 5592. So-called Berenice, admirably modelled (eyes and lips lined with silver when discovered) ; 5598. Female Head with hairrestored (erroneously called Ptolemy Apion) ; 5600 (by the door), Ptolemy SoterQi). The intervening statues are of little merit : 5593. Claudius; 5595. Augustus ; the others have not been identified. — Farther on, by the wall facing the entrance, to the right of the door: 5602. Heraclitus (?), the philosopher; above, 5601. Portrait of a Roman. *5603-5605. Three Dancing Women, from Herculaneum; 5607. So- called Archytas of Tarentum, with a fillet round his head; *5608. Archaistic Head of Apollo ; 5609. Livia (a misnomer); 5610. Head of a Greek Athlete ; *5611. Sacrificing Boy (camillus); 5612. Female Portrait Statue; 5613. Statuette of Apollo ; 5614. Head of a Greek Athlete. — Entrance Wall : 5615. Statue of Augustus^), sacrificing; *5616. So-called Head of Seneca (perhaps Callimachus).*5618..ffead of Dionysus, probably the finest embodiment of the ideal of the bearded, or Indian Bacchus (comp. the relief, 'Banchetto

Entresol. NAPLES. 3. Route.

d'Icario', p. 66), as already accepted in the 6th cent. B.C. ; head was formerly called Plato, until the discovery of a genu bust of that philosopher. Aboveit: *5617. Young Tiberius. 5619- Three Dancing Women from Herculaneum (see p. 68). *5623. mocritus(f). Above, 5622. Lepidus (?).

IV. Room: "Weapons. In the centre, *5635. Equestrian Statu Caligula, found at Pompeii (p. 137). Adjoining the door on left : 5631. Roman Portrait Head ; opposite, 5632. Bust of a mem of the Claudian imperial house (Tiberius?). — By the door on right: 5634. Bust of Scipio Africanus ; opposite, 5633. IdeaU Oreek Head. — The glass cabinets contain a choice Collectioi Weapons (detailed descriptions hung up at the entrance). Entra Wall : Italian weapons ; among them a cock, a Samnite bounc figure from Pietrabbondante (Bovianum), and gladiators' horns f Pompeii. — Left "Wall : Helmets of gladiators and richly decor? armour from Pompeii and Herculaneum. Among these, 283. I met with the Taking of Troy ; Shield with head of the Medusa, Opposite the entrance : Greek armour, helmets, and weapons, fo at Psestum, Ruvo, and Canosa. — "Window "Wall : Leaden pro, tiles for slings, etc.

B. Entresol. The Entresol (Ital. Mezzanino) contains on the right rooms with the latest frescoes from Pompeii, and the ancient te cottas ; on the left are the Cumaean collection , the Renaisss objects, and the Engravings.

The most interesting of the Pompeian Frescoes are the foil ing: Room I., on the entrance-wall, to the left, Europa and bull ; Laocoon ; Tavern scene with inscriptions ; a curious c cature of an incident resembling the Judgment of Solomon. Left Wall : Pyramus and Thisbe ; above, Ulysses and Ci Bellerophon ; Iphigenia and Orestes in Tauris ; Jason before Pel Ulysses escaping from Polyphemus; above, Paris and He Phaedra; Medea. — Window "Wall: Destruction of Niobe and children. — Right "Wall: Conflict between the Pompeians Nucerines in the amphitheatre of Pompeii (see p. 142) ; Mars Venus ; Pygmies fighting with crocodiles and a hippopotan exhausted Bacchante. — Entrancewall, to the right : Hercules Nessus; Pan and nymphs playing upon musical instrume Above, Theseus abandoning Ariadne ; Cimon and Pera ; Here and Auge. In the centre, lamps and other clay articles, chiefly i Aretinum. — Room II., to the left: Expiation scene; Achilles Troilus(?); Judgment of Paris ; Leda; Banquet-scenes, with scriptions; Trojan horse.

Adjoining are four rooms containing the Collection of Anc Terracottas. — I. & II. Rooms: Common earthenware articles household use, from Pompeii. In Room II., *Statuette in a sit posture of a bearded man with a tragic aspect , from Pompeii

70 Route 3. NAPLES. IV. Museum.

the passage to the third room, on the left Artemis, right Medusa. — III. Room. Several Etruscan sarcophagi with recumbent figures on the lids. Numerous lamps. In the cabinets figures of small animals : horses, pigs, birds, also hands and other votive-offerings, such as are still to be seen in Roman Catholic churches : infant in swaddling-clothes, legs, right half of a human figure. Opposite the -window, to the right, a colossal Juno ; left, Jupiter from the small temple of ^Esculapius at Pompeii (p. 130). Opposite the door of egress, above three terracotta statutes, the fragments of the celebrated Volscian relief from Velletri, in the ancient Ita- lian style, with traces of colouring : warriors on horseback and in chariots. — IV. Room, on the entrance- wall, to the right: AntefixcB and gargoyles; to the left, reliefs. Under a glass- shade by the window: small figure of a woman, with painted gar- ments. On the window wall, to the left, drinking-vessels ; below, two archaic antefixae ; to the right, below, Etruscan cists ; above, heads with figures upon them. Opposite the entrance: small sta- tuettes and busts, many of great excellence. Opposite the window, to the left, glazed clay vessels, lamps, and candelabra; to the right, vessels ornamented in relief, heads and figures. Above the cases, vessels embellished with figures.

The central story contains , on the left , the Cumsean Col- lection, which was purchased by the Prince of Carignano from the heirs of the Count of Syracuse and presented to the Museum. It consists chiefly of vases, terracottas, and bronzes found at Oumae (see p. 103). By the window of the First Room an elegant jewel- casket in wood, with several gold ornaments. In the Second Room tables with small objects in bronze, gold, and crystal ; an interest- ing head in wax from a Roman tomb. Among the vases at the window is a fine specimen of the later Attic style, under glass, representing a battle between Amazons and Greeks.

The following room is devoted to the Collection of Engra- vings, consisting of 19,300 examples in 2'27 portfolios, which are exhibited by the custodian on application. This room also contains copies of Pompeian frescoes on the walls.

The Collection of Renaissance Works (Raccolta degli Oggetti del Cinquecento) is arranged in the last room. *10,516. Bronze bust of Dante, said to be modelled from his death-mask; 10,527. Bust in bronze of Ferdinand of Arragon , by Guido Mazzoni (?). An altar with reliefs in marble of the German school, representing the Passion in seven sections.

C. Upper Floor.

From the top of the stairs we first turn to the left to the E. wing. To the left of the passage which we enter is a room con- taining Copies of Pompeian Pictures, Remains of Food, and other objects from Pompeii.

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Upper Floor, E. NAPLES. 3. Route. 71

The copies of Pompeian pictures merit careful inspection, as they serve to convey an idea of the brilliant colouring of these ancient walls when they were first discovered. — Several glass cabinets contain "Ar- ticles of Food and Objects in Common Use at Pompeii. In the centre a hand- some bottle with oil. In the round glass cabinet by the window : below a double pan with meat; in the centre a glass vessel with barley; above' glass tubes with olives. In the glass-cases to the right, beyond the window: net-work and netting-needles, straw sandals, purse containing three coins (found in the Villa of Diomedes), shells, etc. By the entrance- wall are several round loaves , one of which bears the baker's name, Celer, slave of Q. Granius Verus, stamped upon it. In the glass-cases by the left wall: grain, nuts figs, pears, honeycomb, onions, etc. Some ivory carvings are also placed here.

Next, on the right, is the Library of the Papyri. This col- lection was discovered in a villa near Herculaneum in 1752.

The rolls were completely encrusted with carbonaceous matter, and it was only by slow degrees that the real value of the discovery was appreciated. About 3000 were discovered, of which 1800 only have been preserved. The thin layers of the bark (libri) of the papyrus plant, each of the breadth of one column of writing, are pasted together and rolled on rods, and the difficulties encountered in disengaging them may be imagined. The task was long attempted in vain , until the Padre Piaggi in the end of the 18th cent, invented an ingenious machine by which the difficulty was removed. Several of these machines may be seen at work in the second room. About six hundred of these libri have been by degrees unrolled , and whatever of their contents has escaped obliteration has been published in the Volumina Heracleensia. The library belonged to a follower of the Epicurean school, and the MSS. consist chiefly of treatises in Greek by the Epicurean Philodemus, a contemporary of Cicero, on nature, music, rhetoric, etc. There are also, however, considerable fragments of Epicurus himself, including a letter to a young girl. — Here are also preserved the triptychs (about 300) found in a carbonised box at Pompeii in June, 1875, containing receipts for money advanced by L. Csecilius Jucundus, a Pom- peian banker.

In the room opposite copies of paintings are kept for sale.

Following the passage in a straight direction, we next enter the *First Section of the Picture Gallery, containing paintings of the Italian schools (the Neapolitan excepted), and including several of the finest works in the collection. Catalogues at the en- trance of each room.

I. Room (Roman School). *5. Claude, Quay at sunset (dam- aged); 12. Unknown Artist] (not School of Raphael), Female por- trait ; 27. Sassoferrato, Adoration of the Shepherds ; 28. School of Raphael, Madonna delle Grazie; 47. Pannini, Charles III. en- tering St. Peter's at Rome; 51. R. Mengs, Ferdinand IV. at the age of twelve; 53. Pannini, Charles III. visiting Benedict XIV.

II. Room (Schools of Parma and Genoa). 2. Bernardo Strozzi, Portrait of a Capuchin; 10. Parmigianino , Holy Family; 11. School of Correggio (?), Study of a head ; 12. Parmigianino, Ma- donna and Child; 15, 20, 35, 37. Other examples of Parmigianino.

III. Room (Schools of Lombardy and Parma). School of Leo- nardo, 11. John the Baptist, 15. Madonna with two donors of the picture ; 16. Parmigianino, St. Clara; 17. Cesa.re da Sesto, Adoration of the Magi, one of the master's chief works (from Messina); *18. Leonardo's School (not Boltraffio), The young Christ and John kiss-

72 Route 3. NAPLES. IV. Museum.

ing each other; 19. Same School, Madonna (perhaps an early copy of the Madonna delle Roccie ascribed to Leonardo).

IV. Room (Venetian School). 1. Alvise Vivarini, Madonna with two saints (1485) ; *5. Bartol. Vivarini, Madonna enthroned with saints (1469) ; 7. Unknown Artist (not Giorgione), Portrait of a Prince Antonello of Salerno (?); 10, 13, 17, 25. Bern. Belotto (Canaletto), Architectural pieces; 11. Jac. Bassano , Venetian lady; *15. Sebastiano del Piombo, Pope Clement VII., sketch on slate; 19. After Titian, Pope Paul III. (Farnese), possibly an ori- ginal, hut much damaged; *20. Titian, Pope Paul III. -with Cardinal Alessandro and Ottavio Farnese, full of life, although somewhat sketchily handled; 23. Titian, Portrait of Alessandro Farnese, damaged; *32. Moretto, Christ scourged, a fine and carefully modelled little picture; 39. Qarofalo, St. Sehastian; 40. School of Mantegna, Suffering of Christ; *46. Mantegna, St. Euphemia, ruined; 45, 47, 51, 55, 59, 62. Bern. Belotto, Archi- tectural pieces ; 56. Lor. Lotto , Madonna with St. Peter Martyr, an early work. — Proceeding hence in a straight direction we reach the 6th, and, turning to the right, the 5th room.

V. Room. 1. Salvator Rosa, Christ and the Doctors in the Temple; *2. Seb. del Piombo, Holy Family, executed under the in- fluence of Michael Angelo and Raphael (unfinished); *3. Correggio, Madonna, named la Zingarella (gipsy, from the head-gear) or del Coniglio (rabbit), a charming idyllic composition, painted about 1520 (much darkened); 4. Ant. van Dyck{J), Portrait; *5. Titian, Danae, painted at Rome in 1545, a voluptuous work, showing the master — at sixty-eight — still triumphing over every difficulty of art and possessed of all his youthful vigour; 6. Correggio(T), The Child Christ asleep.

*7. Correggio, Betrothal of St. Catharine with the Infant Christ.

This work, painted in 1517-18, is known as 'II piccolo Sposalizio' in contra-distinction to the picture at the Louvre. The religious meaning of the legend has sunk entirely into the background; the idea of the ecstatic vision of the Virgin saint, in which the betrothal symbolises the renunciation of the present and consecration for eternity, is lost in a cheerful scene of natural life.

*8. Titian, Pope Paul III., painted in 1543, and in excellent preservation.

'The pontiffs likeness is that of a strong man , gaunt and dry from age .... A forehead high and endless, a nose both long and slender, expanding to a flat drooping bulb with flabby nostrils overhanging the mouth, an eye peculiarly small and bleary, a large and thin-lipped mouth, display the character of Paul Farnese as that of a fox whose wariness could seldom be at fault. The height of his frame, its size and sinew, still give him an imposing air, to which Titian has added by drapery admirable in its account of the under forms, splendid in the contrasts of its reds in velvet chair and silken stole and rochet, and subtle in the delicacy of its lawn whites.... The quality of life and pulsation so often conveyed in Titian's pictures is here in its highest

development Both face and hands are models of execution, models

of balance of light and shade and harmonious broken tones'. — l Titian', by Crowe & Cavalcaselle.

Upper Floor, E. NAPLES. 3. Route. 73

Ascribed to Correggio (erroneously), 9. Sketch of a Descent from the Cross, 10. Madonna and Child.

*11. Titian, Philip II., probably painted in 1552-3 from a sketch made at Augsburg in 1550 by order of Charles V.

The first painting from this sketch was sent in 1553 to England to assist Philip in his suit for the hand of Mary Tudor, returned after the marriage in 1554, and is now at Madrid ; the Naples picture is the second version, and is hardly inferior to the first.

Ribera, 12. St. Sebastian, 13. St. Jerome listening to the trumpet of judgment, 14. St. Jerome; 15. Ouercino, Magdalene; 16. Rubens, Monk.

VI. Room. To the right: 1. Ann. Carracci, Pieta (copy); 2. Schidone, St. Sebastian; 3. Jac. Bassano, Raising of Lazarus ; 5. Oiulio Romano, Holy Family, called Madonna del Gatto ; 6. Parmigianino, Madonna ('a tempera'); *7. Oiov. Bellini, Trans- figuration, with beautiful landscape ; 8. Roman School, Portrait; 10. Marcello Venusti, Copy of Michael Angelo's Last Judgment, be- fore its disfigurement; *11. Perugino, Madonna; 12. Andrea del Sarto (1), Pope Clement VII.; 15. Luini, Madonna; *16. Oiov. Bel- lini, (?more probably Antonello da Messina), Portrait; *17. Un- known Artist (not Raphael), Portrait of the Cavaliere Tibaldeo (?).

*19. Andrea del Sarto, Copy of Raphael's portrait of Leo X., with Cardinals Giulio de' Medici and Rossi (1524).

This admirable copy was sent by Clement VII. to the Marchese Federigo Gonzaga of Mantua instead of the original he had promised (now in the Pitti at Florence), and afterwards came to Naples. Even Giulio Eomano was deceived, till his attention was directed to a sign made on the copy by Andrea del Sarto to distinguish the two works. Messrs. Crowe and Cavalcaselle miss in this work 'the perfect keeping, ease, grandeur, modelling, and relief of form', which characterise the original.

*21. Raphael (?), Portrait of Cardinal Passerini; *22. Raphael, Holy Family (Madonna col divino amore), of the master's Roman period, probably executed by Oiulio Romano ; 24. Pietro Novelli, surnamed Monrealese, Trinity; 26. Garofalo, Descent from the Cross ; *28. Palma Vecchio , Madonna with St. Jerome , John the Baptist , St. Catharine , and donors , the most successful of the master's 'holy conversations', a noble composition sparkling with light in the dresses and landscape (C. & C); 30. Domeni- chino, Guardian angel; 31. Bronzino, Holy Family; *32. Claude, Landscape, with accessories by Lauri; 34. Pinturicchio, Assump- tion ; *36. Titian, Repentant Magdalene ; 40. Leandro Bassano, Portrait of a Farnese ; 41. Parmigianino, Portrait; 43. Ouercino, St. Francis of Assisi ; 44. Andrea da Salerno, St. Benedict enthroned between SS. Placidus and Maurus, below the four great Church Fathers ; 47. Quido Reni, Race between Atalanta and Hippomenes ; 49. Bourguignon, Battle; 51. Jac. Bassano, Raising of Lazarus; 53. School of Andrea del Sarto, Architect (Bramante?) showing a design to a nobleman ; 55. Salv. Rosa, Battle ; *57. Seb. delPiombo, Portrait of Pope Hadrian VI. of Utrecht (1522-23) ; 58. Tintoretto,

74 Route 3. NAPLES. IV. Museum.

Don John of Austria; 59. Ribera, Silenus and satyrs ; 61. Fra Bar- tolommeo, Assumption (1516).

Returning to the exit, we may obtain, to the left, in passing, a glimpse through the central staircase at the principal hall of the Library.

The collection embraces about 200,000 printed volumes and 4000 MSS. Catalogues for the use of visitors. Besides numerous ancient Italian works there are several valuable Greek and Latin MSS. (Greek, Lycophron's Alexandra, Quintus Smyrneeus, date 1311, etc.; Latin, Charisius, Ars gram- matica, the half-burned MS. of Festus, a mass-book with beautiful minia- tures of fruit and flowers, called la Flora, etc.). In the principal hall the custodian awakens a remarkably fine echo. Books are not lent out, but within the library three may be used at a time (9-3 o'clock). Readers enter from the street (not through the museum) by the last door in the building, and ascend by the staircase to the right.

The W. half of the Upper Floor, reached from the Grand Stair- case by ascending to the right, contains the glass, coins, half of the pictures, vases, small bronzes, and precious relics.

Immediately on the right of the corridor, which we now enter, is a room containing the Collection of Ancient Crystal (Vetri), the most extensive of the kind in existence , showing the nu- merous ways in which it was used by the ancients. Several panes of glass from the villa of Diomedes should be inspected ; also a beautifully-cut glass *Vase with white Cupids and foliage on a blue ground, discovered in 1837 in a tomb in the Street of the Tombs at Pompeii, when it was filled with ashes.

The next door to the right leads to the Reserved Cabinet (Rac- colta Pornografica), to which men only are admitted ; it contains mural and other paintings not adapted for public exhibition, and numerous bronzes, some of them of considerable artistic merit.

Opposite this collection , on the left side of the passage , is the Collection of Coins (Medagliere), which is of almost unrivalled value and extent.

The First Room contains the Greek, the Second Roman, the Thied Roman and Byzantine, the Fourth and Fifth mediaeval and modern coins, and the Sixth the dies of the Neapolitan mint, together with a numismatic library. Catalogues are placed over the glass-cases for the use of visitors. In the corners: Busts of distinguished numismatists. — The Museo Santangelo (p. 76) adjoins the 6th room, but is not acces- sible thence.

"We next proceed in a straight direction from the above-named passage to the comparatively uninteresting Second Section of the Picture Gallery, containing works of the Neapolitan, later Italian, and foreign schools.

Room I. (Bolognese School). 1. Lavinia Fontana, Christ and the Samaritan woman ; 3. Ann. Carracci, Madonna and Child with St. Francis, painted on Oriental agate ; 9. Ouido Rent, Ulysses and Nausicaa; 15. Lionello Spada, Cain and Abel; 38. Francesco Romanelli, Sibyl ; 43. Ann. Carracci, Caricature of Caravaggio as a savage with a parrot and a dwarf, in the corner Carracci himself' 47. Ouercino, Peter weeping; 55. Ann. Carracci, Rinaldo and Ar-

Upper Floor, W. NAPLES. 3. Route. 75

mida; 69. M. Caravaggio, Judith and Holophernes ; 71. Ann. Car- racci, Landscape with St. Eustachius.

Boom II. (Tuscan School). 5. Sodorna, Resurrection of Christ; 25. Gentile da Fabriano, Madonna and angels ; 27. Lor. di Credi, Nativity; 30. Dom. Ohirlandajo, Madonna and saints; 31. Matteo da Siena, Massacre of the Innocents (dated 1482); 32. Sandro Botticelli, Madonna enthroned; 37. Filippino Lippi, Annunciation and two saints ; Ang. Bronzino, 42. Young nohleman, 55. Female portrait; 48. Dom. Ohirlandajo, Madonna and John the Baptist. In the centre of the room is a large bronze tabernacle with the story of the Passion, executed by Jacopo Siciliano from a design said to have been made by Michael Angelo.

Room III. (Neapolitan School of the 14th, 15th, and 16th cent- uries). Pietro delDonzello, 1. Christ crucified between the two male- factors, 3. St. Martin; 7. Ant. Rimpacta from Bologna (not Lo Zin- garo), Madonna and Child under a canopy, surrounded by eight saints; 21, 25, 32. Simone Papa, Crucifixion and Saints ;24. Andrea (Sabbatini) da Salerno, Miracles of St. Nicholas of Bari, sadly dam- aged ; *34. Andrea da Salerno, Adoration of the Magi, marked by all the freshness and grace of the S. Italian school, but also by the characteristically slight attention paid by it to correct handling. — Adjoining the third room are two rooms containing Byzantine and early Tuscan works, most of them badly preserved and freely restored, and Neapolitan paintings of the 13th and 14th centuries.

Room IV. (Neapolitan School of the 16-18th centuries). 1. Do- menico Oargiulo, surnamed Micco Spadaro, Revolt of Masaniello in the Piazza del Mercato at Naples in 1647; 5. Oian Filippo Criscuolo, Adoration of the Magi ; 22, 27, 28, 30. Works by Luca Oiordano ; 37. Massimo Stanzioni, Adoration of the Shepherds ; 56. Traversa, Girl with doves; 63. Pacecco di Rosa, Madonna delle Grazie ; 64. Jose Ribera, surnamed Spagnoletto, St. Bruno adoring the Holy Child, on copper; 66. Pietro Novelli, surnamed Monrealese, Judith and Holophernes; 72. Dom. Oargiulo, The smoker; 75. Oiordano, Pope Alexander II. consecrating the church of Monte Cassino ; 76. Oiordano, Christ shown to the people (after Diirer). — The large walnut cabinet in the centre of the room, adorned with carved reliefs from the life of St. Augustine, dates from the 16th cent, and was formerly in the sacristy of the monastery of S. Agostino degli Scalzi. It contains media val and Renaissance ivory carvings, engraved rock-crystals, miniatures, and the like, most of which were once in possession of the Farnese family. A cabinet by the wall of the exit, from the same church, contains majolicas from Urbino and elsewhere. By the window : the *Cassetta Farnese in gilded silver, executed by Oiovanni Bernardi da Castelbolognese, a goldsmith of Bologna (d. 1555), with six large and beautifully cut stones representing Meleager and Atalanta, Procession of the Indian Bacchus, Circus games, Battle

76 Route 3. NAPLES. IV. Museum.

of Amazons , Battle of the Centaurs and Lapithse , Battle of Salamis. — By the other window: Small Diana on the stag, in gilded silver, with clock-work, probably the toy of some juvenile prince.

Room V. (German and Flemish Schools). 3. Lower German Master (not Lucas van Leyden), Adoration of the Magi; 28. J. Kornelissen of Amsterdam (not Diirer), Adoration of the Shepherds (1512; comp. p. 266); 34. Alb. Diirer (?) , Nativity; 40. School of Lucas Cranach, Christ and the adulteress ; 42. Amberger (?), Por- trait ; *44. Jan van Eyck (?), St. Jerome extracting a thorn from the paw of a lion , one of the finest early-Flemish paintings in Italy; 51. Unknown Artist (not Holbein), A cardinal; *53. Lower German Master, Crucifixion ; *54. Pieter Brueghel the Elder, Parable of the seven blind men.

Boom VI. (Netherlands Schools). 1. Style of Rembrandt, Por- trait ; 12. Ascribed to Van Dyck, Portrait of a nobleman ; 17. School of Rembrandt, Portrait; 19. Frans Snyders , Hunting scene ; 36. School of Van Dyck , Crucifixion; 61. Collection of 21 miniatures of the House of Farnese ; 73. Mich. Mierevelt, Portrait; 78. Ferd. Bol, Portrait ; 83. Ascribed to Van Dyck , Portrait of a Princess Egmont ; 89. Villa Medici at Rome in 1615. — Entrance hence into the collection of bronzes, see p. 78.

From the 5th Room of the paintings we enter a circular room, the first of the collection of vases (see below), and pass thence to the left into the Museo Santaugelo, which occupies three rooms. This museum was formerly in the Pal. Santangelo, but was purchased by the city of Naples in 1865 and placed under the care of the Museo Nazionale. For admission apply to the custodian.

1st Room : Vases. In the cabinet in the centre, a vase with Baccha- nalian scene. In the middle of the cabinet on the left, Bacchanalian feast with an armed dancing-woman. To the right by the window a "Cabinet with drinking-horns (rhyta).

2nd Room : Terracottas and Small Bronzes. On the left, in the corner, a vase from Nola, with the return of Hephaestus to Olympus.

3rd Room: Collection of Coins. On the second table in the middle of the room an interesting selection of 'aes grave* and other Italian coins. Also several large vases: to the left of the entrance a vase with Pelops and CEnomaus. In the centre a vase with Orpheus in the infernal regions. Opposite the entrance, to the right, -Mercury and Spes, relief -mosaics from Metapontum, unique of their kind. Cock-light.

We now return to the ** Collection of Vases, which begins with the circular room mentioned above, and occupies seven rooms. . It is very extensive and valuable, and is particularly rich in spe- cimens of the handsome vases of Lower Italy. The finest speci- mens are placed by themselves on short columns. The collection is arranged in chronological order after the second room, in which from the left of the entrance to the middle of the right wall are arranged the vases with black figures; then follow Greek vases with red figures, succeeded by vases of Italian origin. — As Greek vase-painting was adopted by the Etruscans and modified

Upper Floor, W. NAPLES. 3. Route. 77

according to the national taste, so this branch of art was strongly influ- enced in Lower Italy, and especially in Apulia , by the peculiar character of its inhabitants. The vases here are of large and imposing dimensions, and the artists, not satisfied with the decoration of paint- ing alone, have frequently superadded reliefs to adorn the necks and handles. Their aim appears to have been to cover, if pos- sible , the entire surface of the vase with the colours. The different series of representations, one above another, which they bear, are often without connection ; or the centre is occupied by an architectural design and surrounded irregularly with groups. The figures are generally of a somewhat effeminate mould, and great care appears to have been bestowed on the delineation of rich but scantily folded garments. The representations are for the most part borrowed from the ancient Greek tragedy, but in some cases scenes of a more Italian character are observed. The period of their manufacture is believed to have been shortly after the reign of Alexander the Great.

The floors of the room are paved with ancient, hut freely restored Mosaics. 1st Room. The vases in the 1st and 2nd cabinets (to the left, count- ing from the entrance from the picture-gallery), and the three placed on columns in front of them are specimens of the earliest stage of this art. They are of a yellowish colour, ornamented with two rows of plants or animals of brownish or black colour, and are round or oval in form. The 3rd and 4th cabinets contain Etruscan and Calene (p. 7), the others Greek vases, some of them beautifully shaped, but nearly all black and nnpainted.

2nd Boom. Pavement from the house of Diomedes at Pompeii. Opposite the entrance : Condemnation of Marsyas. By the window : Two large vases, one with the Death of Archemorus, the other with the Fun- eral sacrifice of Patroclus. Between these, under a glass shade. Lecythus (vase for ointment) with reliefs of Marsyas and Apollo. In a cabinet opposite the window, Lecythi, remarkable for the painting on white ground; and prize vases of the Panathenean festivals.

3rd Eoom. Opposite the entrance : "Vase with lid, Bacchanalian sacrifice. Farther on, in the centre, Actors with masks; "Battle of Amazons; "Destruction of Troy. By the window: Large vase, from Ruvo, the largest vase yet discovered, with a Battle of the Amazons and Orpheus in Hades.

4th Room. In the centre, Medea fleeing after the murder of her children. Lycurgus, blinded by Bacchus, slaying his wife. By the window, the celebrated large Vase of Darius from Canosa : Darius planning the conquest of Greece; above is Hellas, at whose side Athene and Zeus are standing; beneath are the Persian provinces on which subsidies are levied for the war, with accompanying names.

5th Room. In the centre, Orestes seeking refuge from the Furies at the statue of Artemis; Perseus releasing Andromeda ; Tereus on horseback pursuing Procne and Philomela. Opposite the window, to the left, Hercules carrying off the tripod. Farther on, to the right, Lycurgus kill- ing his son; Rape of the golden fleece; Orestes and Electra mourning at the grave of Agamemnon.

6th Room- By the window two models of tombs, which illustrate the manner in which the vases were discovered. As the ornaments, weapons, etc., ot the deceased were deposited with his remains in the tomb, so also were these vases which had adorned his home; in some cases, however, the nature of the subjects leads to the conclusion that they were manufactured for this express purpose. In the centre, drinking horns and Lecythi. — The rest of the vases here and in the 7th Room

78 Route 3. NAPLES. IV. Museum.

are unimportant. — The entrance hence to the small bronzes is closed. We therefore proceed to the principal entrance in the 6th room of the picture-gallery (p. 76).

The collection of the ** Small Bronzes is the finest of its kind in existence and is arranged in a masterly fashion. It consists chiefly of household utensils, lamps, candelabra, tools of all kinds, musical and surgical instruments, weapons, etc., most of them found at Pompeii, and is admirably adapted to convey an idea of the life and habits of the ancient Italians. The use of most of the objects is too obvious to require explanation.

1st Room : The most valuable objects are in the centre, grouped around three large Money- Chests , such as usually stood in the Atria of Pompeian houses. To the left of the corner : Dish-warmer, in the form of a fortress. Farther to the right: large Divan or chair. Cooking Stove. Table Support, with Victoria bearing a tro- phy. Farther on, parallel with the window-wall and by the windows : Bisellia (seats of honour) decorated with heads of horses and swans, and a large shallow Dish with inlaid silver ornaments. In a glass-case, a *Tripod for sacrifices, richly decorated, from the temple of Isis at Pompeii. Then iron Stocks from the gladiators' barracks at Pompeii, near which three skeletons were found. Far- ther back, also under glass : * Candelabrum from the Villa of Dio- medes, consisting of a square slab which bears a small Bacchus riding on a panther besides a small altar and a pilaster adorned with a mask and bucranium (skull of an ox) ; the lamps hang from four branches; those at present placed there are not the original. Then, Baths. Large Brazier from the Thermae at Pompeii (p. 136), ornamented with a cow's head, the armorial bearings of the foun- der M. Nigidius Vacca. — The Cabinets along the wall are number- ed from right to left, beginning at the left entrance, i-xiv. Bronze Vessels, xv, xvi. Water-taps and Gargoyles, xvn. Implements of the Palmstra, including numerous Scrapers for removing the oil and dust from the body after gymnastic exercise ; garniture of a ring, xvm-xx. Door-plates, Locks, and Keys, with fine inlaid work, xxi-xxnr. Iron Utensils, xxiv-xxvn. Lamps, xxvm-xxx. Mount- ings, Handles, Table Supports, etc. ■ — Among the cabinets stand several Candelabra.

2nd Room : A "'Model of Pompeii , representing the ruins as they were in 1871 (comp. Plan, p. 120) on a scale of 1 : 100. — Along the walls are ancient disk-shaped Bells, and numerous bronze vessels and candelabra. Cabinets xxxii-xliii, 1-lv, lviii-lx. con- tain Utensils of various kinds and shapes, xliv, xlv. Ladles and Funnels; elaborate Cooking Apparatus, xlvi. Tripods; small Bra- ziers, xlvii-li. Scales and Weights, lvi. Mirrors and Ink-holders ; below, objects in Bone and Ivory, lvii. Bells, Harness, Ornaments, Buckles (fibula?). — In the glass-cases : lxi. Compasses , Angling Hooks , Anchors , Steering Apparatus, lxii. Musical Instruments,

Upper Floor, W. NAPLES. 3. Route. 79

including the 'sistrum' used in the worship of Isis. lxiii. Astragali Dice, Tesserae (tickets of bone, ivory, etc., including some theatre- tickets), lxiii b. Trinkets and Toilette Articles in bronze and ivory, lxiv. Sieve. Ixv, lxvi. Surgical Instruments, lxvii, lxviii. Ivory and Bone Carvings. — To the left, near the model of Pom- peii : Leaden Vessels of cylindrical form. — At the back is a Tri- clinium , or three dining-sofas , each for three persons (the table was placed in the middle). By the window, under a glass shade, the impression in hardened ashes of the breast of a girl and her skull, from the Villa of Diomedes at Pompeii (p. 142).

The last room contains the Collection of Precious Belies (Og- getti Preziosi), antique cut gems, and gold and silver objects.

By thb Window, the celebrated *Tazza Farnese, a vessel of onyx with beautiful reliefs, the largest of its kind. On the out- side a large Medusa's head in relief; in the inside a group of seven persons, referred by some to the occasion of an inundation of the Nile, by others to a festival in spring, instituted by Alexander at the foundation of Alexandria.

Tablbs in thb Centhb. The first near the window contains the * Cameos, or stones cut in relief, many of which are very inter- esting : in front of the case to the left, *16. Zeus in conflict with the Titans, by Anthemion ; 32. Head of Medusa; 44. A fine head of Augustus; 65. Part of the group of the Farnese bull, said to have been used as a model at its restoration ; below it, 1857. Head of a Vestal. — Adjacent are the Intagli, or stones on which the designs recede(so placed that the designs are seen through the stone): 209. Ajax and Cassandra; 213. Apollo and Marsyas; *392. Bacchante. The table in the middle contains cut gems of the mediaeval and Renaissance epochs.

The Cabinets by the entrance-wall and the window-wall and at the front part of the left wall contain well-executed Objects in Silver: Vases, goblets, tablets, spoons, buckles; also objects in ivory, medallion reliefs, etc. The most noteworthy objects are the following: Six fine large vases; Six goblets with foliage; Small sun-dial; Vase in the shape of a mortar, with the apotheosis of Homer; Three tripods; Rings from Greek tombs at Armento in the Basilicata; Silver Plate from the house of Meleager at Pompeii, including two handsome goblets with centaurs.

The Objects in Gold begin at the farther end , to the right, with the Greek ornaments , which include a diadem from Venosa, and *Ornaments found in a tomb at Taranto; large gold lamp from Pompeii, admirably executed and well preserved. Then, opposite the entrance, ornaments from Herculaneum and Pompeii, some set with pearls and precious stones : Nos . 1 -4. Chain, bracelet, and a pair of earrings which were found with a female skeleton in the house of Diomedes at Pompeii ; then, 186, 187. Two cloak-clasps; two massive armlets in the form of serpents; handsome necklaces, etc.

80 Route 3. NAPLES. V. The Higher

— There is also an interesting collection of ancient Rings, includ ing a gold ring with a portrait, possibly of Brutus, with the artist' name Anaxilas.

V. The Higher Quarters : Capodimonte, Corso Vittorio Emanuel* Castel S. Elmo, S. Martino.

The continuation of the Toledo beyond the Museum is forme by the Strada S. Teresa degli Scalzi (PI. E, 3, 2), which grad ually ascends. From the beginning of this street , opposite th N.W. corner of the Museum, the Strada Salvator Rosa (p. 82 diverges to the left. We follow the Strada di S. Teresa , and i about 10 min. cross the Ponte delta Sanith, a viaduct constructe in 1809 across the quarter della Sanita which lies below.

Descending to the left immediately beyond the bridge, and from th lower end of the street entering the winding Strada S. Gennaro de' Povei to the right, we soon reach the large hospice or poor-house of that nami At the back of the building is the church of S. Gennaro (St. Januariui founded in the 8th cent, on the site of a chapel where St. Januarius we interred , but now completely modernised. The vestibule of the inm court is embellished with Frescoes from the history of the saint by At drea da Salerno (?) , unfortunately in bad preservation. At the back c the church is the entrance to the extensive Catacombs (PL D, 1) of Naple: admission to which is obtained by applying to the porter of the hospic (1 fr. for each person, and trifling fee to the attendant).

The Catacombs of S. Grennaro consist of four main galleries, c which, however, two only are now connected by staircases and accessibl to visitors, together with a long series of lateral passages and buri; chambers (cubicitla). Along the walls are excavated niches of three di ferent forms, ranged in rows one above another. A few of the chambei lie below the level of the galleries. The oldest part of the catacomt dates from the first century of our era. In point of architecture they fa surpass the Roman, though inferior in every other respect. The two larg ante-chambers were used for the religious services customary at an intermen

Information as to the history and decorations of these early Christia burial-places will be found in the Handbook for Central Italy. The ii scriptions found here have been placed in the Museum. Among th paintings may be mentioned the pleasing decorations of the two ant( rooms, which recall the Pompeian style, a figure of the Good Shepher in the first gallery, the portraits on the tomb of Theotecnus (beginnin of the 4th cent.) in the second gallery, and a figure of Christ of the 5t or 6th cent, (but frequently retouched) in the so-called Basilica di S. Get naro. The bones which fill many of the chambers and corridors at generally those of victims of the plagues which ravaged Naples in th 16th century. The Priapus column with the Hebrew inscription is mediteval hoax.

There is another (but unimportant) series of catacombs, of the 4th an 5th cent., beneath the church of S. Maria della Sanita, below the bridg of that name.

The Strada Nuova di Capodimonte, as the street ascendin beyond the Ponte della Sanita is called, leads in a few minutes t a circular space called the Tondo di Capodimonte (PI. E 1 ; ordi nary cab-fares thus far). The road now describes a lon°- curve t the left and then divides, the N. branch leading to Secondiglianc and the S. branch to the entrance of the park of Capodimonte Walkers ascend the steps , and at the top follow the road to th

Quarters. NAPLES. 3. Route. 81

right. From the Tondo cli Capodimonte to the palace is a walk of 7 minutes. — A short distance before the park-gates is the large main reservoir of the new waterworks (Acqua di Serino ; PI. F, 1 ; p. 32), with five basins hewn in the rock, and a capacity of 80,000 cubic meters. Permission to inspect the works is obtained at the office of the Naples Waterworks Co., Str. Ohiatamone 5 bis.

The royal Palazzo di Capodimonte (PL E, F, 1 ; daily 10-4, with permesso, see p. 35; guide not necessary for the garden), sit- uated above the town to the N. on the eminence of that name, was begun in 1738 by Charles III., but not completed till 1834- 39 in the reigrr of Ferdinand II. The edifice was designed by Medrano , the architect of the Teatro S. Carlo. The *Oardens are partly laid out in the English style. Splendid views are enjoyed from tha large evergreen oak and other points. Permessi must once more be shown at an enclosed part called the Bosco (fee 25- 50 c; inaccessible in April and May when the pheasants are sitting). One-horse carriages are not admitted to the park.

The palace contains the royal Mdseo di Capodimonte (fee 1 fr.) , a somewhat extensive, hut not very valuable collection of pictures, chiefly by modern Neapolitan masters , and of modern sculptures , distributed throughout the different apartments. The names of the artists are attach- ed to the frames. The following are worthy of mention: Sackert, Wild- boar hunt in the Bosco di Persano ; Chase of wild fowl on the Lago Fusaro, by the same; Lemasle, Marriage of the Duchesse de Berry; Camuccini, Death of Csesar; Celentano, Benvenuto Cellini at the Castel Si Angelo; Bayez , Ulysses and Alcinous; a table with ancient mosaic from Pompeii; Marinelli, Cleopatra at her toilet; Virginia Lebrun, Portraits of the Duchess of Parma and Maria Theresa; Angelica Kauf- mann, Ferdinand I. and his consort with their children; Podesta, Or- pheus; De Angelis, Death of Phaedra ; Guerra, Ossian ; Postiglione, Andro- cles ; Bergi, Epaminondas at Mantinea ; Carelli, Capture of the Porta Pia at Rome , Sept. 20, 1870 ; Vanvitelli, View of Piedigrotta. — The palace also contains a collection of porcelain from the former manufactory of Capodimonte, including some exquisitely delicate and transparent spe- cimens of pdte tendre, coloured decorations in relief, and (later) imitations of the antique. The manufactory was founded in 1743 by Charles III., improved in 1771 by Ferdinand IV. , and suppressed by the French in 1806. The valuable collection of armour (Armerla) contains the ancient accoutrements of kings Roger and Ferdinand I. , of Alexander Farnese, and of Victor Amadeus of Savoy ; the sword presented by Ferdinand I. to the gallant Scanderbeg (d. 1467) ; also an ornamental cradle presented by the city of Naples to the present queen Margaret in 1869.

Near Capodimonte are the villas Meuricoffre (generally open on presentation of the visitor's card), Ruffo, Avelli, and Forquet, com- manding fine views in all directions. — To the W. , opposite Capo- dimonte, stands the Villa Qallo (PI. D, 1), founded in 1809 by the Duca di Gallo.

Following the Salita di Capodimonte , opposite the entrance to the park of Capodimonte , and after a few minutes turning to the left, we reach the Observatory [Osservatorio Reale, PI. F, 1), occu- pying the summit of the hill. It is popularly called La Specola, or, after the villa of a Spanish marquis which once stood here, Mira- dois. The observatory was founded in 1812, and enlarged in 1820

Baedeker. Italy III. 11th Edition. g

82 Route 3. JXAi'.LJiB. V. The Higher

from plans by the celebrated Piazzi (d. 1826), under whom it attain- ed a European reputation. The present director, Comm. de Gasparis, has distinguished himself by the discovery of several planetoids. — On the way to the observatory a path descends in steps past the church de Miracoli to the Strada Foria (see p. 41).

Opposite the N.W. corner of the Museum, as mentioned at p. 80, the Strada Salvator Rosa (PI. D, E, 3, 4) ascends the heights of S. Elmo and the Posilipo. Donkeys may be hired at the foot of the hill, and also farther up : to S. Martino l-172ir. (as quick as a carriage, or quicker). The tramway (No. 6, p. 23) as- cends at this point by the rack-and-pinion system. In 10 minutes walk from the Museum we reach the small Piazza Salvator Rosa, where the Str. Salvator Rosa turns to the right towards Arenella, birthplace of Salvator Rosa, the painter.

In a straight direction begins here the *Corso Vittorio Emannele (PI. D, 4; E, 5; B, C, D, E, 6; B, 7; steam-tramway, see p. 23), which is carried by means of windings and several viaducts round the hills of S. Elmo and the Posilipo. It then skirts the slopes for some distance, and at length gradually descends to the Piazza di Piedigrotta (p. 86) and the Mergellina (p. 86), commanding ad- mirable views of the town, the bay, and Mt. Vesuvius. The road was begun by the Bourbons for military purposes, but was not com- pleted till 1875. The distance from the Piazza Salvator Rosa to S. Maria di Piedigrotta is upwards of 2^2 M. From the Corso a number of lanes descend, some of them by means of steps, to the lower part of the city. Those diverging from the first third of the road lead to the Toledo, those from the last third descend to the Chiaja.

S. Elmo and S. Martino are reached from the Corso Vittorio Ernanuele by means of two somewhat steep Bridle Paths, ascend- ing in places by shallow steps. One of these, the Pedimentina di S. Martino (PI. E, D, 5), begins about Y2 M. from the Piazza Sal- vator Rosa, beyond the viaduct and the angle made by the street, beside the house No. 350 , and reaches the entrance of the Castel in 1/4 hr. The other, the Salita del Petraio (PL D, 6, 5), begins about 10 min. farther on, between the houses Nos. 227 and 226. Donkeys for hire at both. — A much longer route is by the carriage- road, following the Str. Salvator Rosa to the small chapel of S. Maria Costantinopolitana (PL C, 4), and diverging there to the left (carriage see p. 22).

The easiest ascent is by one of the Cable Tramways mentioned at p. 23, which pass under the Corso and unite the lower town with the new quarter of Rione Vomero (PI. C , D, 5) , which is still only partly built and sparsely inhabited. One of these has its lower terminus ,at Monte Santo, to the W. of the Toledo (PI. E, 4, p. 40), the other, more convenient for the majority of travellers, begins in the Rione Amedeo (PI. C, 6), and has an intermediate

Quarters. NAPLES. 3. Route. 83

station near the Hotel Bristol in the Corso Vitt. Emanuele. The upper terminus of the former line is about i/4 M. to the N. W., that of the other 1/2 M- t0 tae w-i of the entrance to the Castel S. Elmo, on the N.AV. side (marked 'Ingr.' on our Plan).

The Castel Sant' Elmo (875 ft.), or Sant' Ermo, formerly Sant' Erasmo, was erected under Robert the Wise in 1343 and conside- rably enlarged and strengthened in the 15-17th centuries. The vast walls , the fosses hewn in the solid tuffstone rock , its sub- terranean passages, and ample cistern formerly obtained for it the reputation of impregnability. The fort is now used as a military prison, and is accessible only by special permission.

On entering the precincts of the fortifications we proceed to the suppressed Carthusian monastery of —

*S. Martino (PI. D, 5), which is not less remarkable for the beauty of its situation and its views, than for the value of its con- tents. It was begun in 1325 by Duke Charles of Calabria, but was entirely rebuilt in the 17th century. Since its dissolution, the monastery has been placed under the management of the Museo Na- zionale, and is shown daily, 10-4 o'clock (adm. 1 fr. ; Sun., 9-2, free). If time be limited, the Belvedere should first be visited.

Beyond the court, in which is situated the main entrance (always closed) of the church, we reach the Monastery Court, where sarcophagi, inscriptions, marble coats-of-arms , etc., are exhibited, and enter a wide archway, immediately to the right in which is the former laboratory of the convent, a large and lofty vaulted apartment; on the walls are church- banners. — The Hall to the left of this contains the pictures, for which there was no room in the Museo Nazionale. The title and artist's name are attached to each frame. Some of the pictures are good examples of Neapolitan masters of the 16-17th centuries. In the centre of the apart- ment is the gorgeous Barge, used for excursions in the gulf of Naples by Charles III. The adjoining Room contains Battle Pictures (explained by the attendant) and ancient Views of Naples, with an interesting represen- tation of a royal visit to the festival of Piedigrotta. The State Coach in the centre used to appear in municipal festivals at Naples, and was occupied by Victor Emmanuel and Garibaldi on entering the city in 1860. The uniforms of the former Consiglieri Mnnicipali are preserved in a case in this room. A third small Room contains ancient banners.

We now return through the laboratory to the monastery-court , and enter a long, narrow Corridor by the open door in the middle of the wall. Here on each side is an open door. — That to the left admits to a room containing Models of Italian Fortresses. — The door to the right leads through a passage to a tasteful 'Representation of the Infant Christ in the manger (LPresepe^) , with the three Magi , and scenes of Neapolitan life, in a mountainous landscape. This representation, the delight of all Neapolitans, young and old, is worth seeing on account of the costumes and as a specimen of the erections which were common at Christmas in the private houses and churches of Naples since the 15th century.

The narrow corridor (door immediately to the left) leads to the "Clois- ters, with 60 columns of white marble. — We then traverse the Audience Room and the Chapter-hoose, the roof of which is painted by Corenzio (to the right, the 'Coro dei Laici Conversi'), to the church, of which we first enter the choir.

The Church, which consists of a nave with three chapels on each side, is richly embellished with marble. On the ceiling is an Ascension, and between the windows the Twelve Apostles, by Lanfranco. Over the principal entrance a "Descent from the Cross by Stanzioni (damaged), and

84 Route 3. NAPLES. V. The Higher Quarters.

next to it Moses and Elias by Spagnoletto. The Apostles above the archei of the chapels are by the same artist. Frescoes of the choir by th< Cavaliere d'Arpino. The Crucifixion by Lanfranco. On the wall at the E, end, Nativity, unfinished, by Outdo Reni (who died during the progress ot the work). On the sides : to the left, Communion of the Apostles, by Spa- gnoletto (in the style of Paolo Veronese), and Christ washing the disciples' feet, by Caracciolo; to the right, the same subject by Stanzioni, and In- stitution of the Eucharist, by the pupils of P. Veronese. The marble de- corations of the church, twelve different roses of Egyptian basalt, after Co- simo Fansaga of Carrara, the beautiful mosaic marble pavement by Presti. and the high-altar by Solimena also merit inspection. — The Saoeisty. entered to the left from the choir, is adorned with intarsias by Bonaventura Presto, and paintings by the Cavaliere aVArpino, Stanzioni, and Caravaggio. — Beyond it is the Tesoeo, containing as an altar-piece a "Descent from the Cross, the masterpiece of Spagnoletto, fine in colouring and admirable for its delineation of pain ; on the ceiling Judith, by Luca Giordano, said to have been painted in 48 hours, when the artist was in his 72nd year.

We return through the chapter-house to the cloisters; to the right is the entrance to the —

Museum. Room I. Silver vessels; objects in marble; reliquary. — Room II. Majolicas from Castelli in the Abruzzi (Collection Bonghi), in- teresting as specimens of a local industry, but otherwise unimportant: most of the pieces, both in this and the other rooms, date from the 17th cent, or later. — Room III. Modern glass, porcelain, and ivory carvings; huge old choir-books with miniatures; priest's robe. — Room IV. Mirrors with chased figures; old chairs. — Room V. Prisonjacket and other relics of the Italian statesman Carlo Poerio (1803-67; comp. p. 40) and oi his brother Alessandro , the patriotic poet (b. 1802), who died in 1848 from wounds received at the defence of Venice ; the hat of Card. Ruffo. — From R. II. we turn to the right into Room VI. Figures in biscuit china from the manufactory of Capodimonte. To the right, in a niche, is the wax figure of Padre Rocco, a Neapolitan street-preacher and philan- thropist who died at the beginning of this century. On the floor of this and the following room, mosaics of the signs of the Zodiac. — Room VII. The remainder of the collection of majolicas. The best pieces are (beginning to the right): Heliodorus; Israelites crossing the Red Sea; Toilette oi Venus; Diana asleep; Judgment of Paris, a curious rendering by Ant. Lolli; Apollo and the Python; Boar-hunt; Battle of Alexander; Bacchic pro- cession; Galatea; Jupiter and Juno (groups from the frescoes by the Car- racci in the Pal. Farnese in Rome); David and Goliath; Bacchus and Ariadne ; Finding of Moses. — Room VIII. (to the left of R. I.). Uniforms of the Bourbon period. — Rooms IX. and X. Modern pictures. Embroi- dery in silk (Judith, Esther, Flight into Egypt, etc.).

At the end of the right wing of the cloisters is a door leading to the right through a corridor to the "'"Belvedere, a hexagonal room with two balconies commanding exquisite views of the city, the bay, Mt. Ve- suvius, and the fertile country as far as Nola and the Apennines. It is less extensive than that from the walls of Castel S. Elmo, but more picturesque.

Farther on in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele lie the hotels men- tioned at p. 19. Beside the Hotel Bristol is a stopping-place of the IUone Amedeo cable-tramway (p. 23). Thence a street descends past the small Parco Margherita, and a little farther on a private road ascends to several villas belonging to Conte 6. Orifeo. Beyond the hotels Tramontano and Britannique , to the right, diverges the Via Tasso (see p. 85). The first station of the Cumae Railway is farther on between two tunnels ((PI. B, 6; p. 91). — The Corso Vitt. Emanuele ends at the Piazza di Piedigrotta, see p. 86.

VI. The Posilipo. NAPLES. 3. Route. 85

VI. Hill of Posilipo.

A most interesting circular tour rn:iy be made from the Corso Vittorio Emanuele up the Via Tasso to the top of the hill of Posilipo and thence back by the Strada Nuova di Posilipo (p. 87) to the Villa Nazionale; a walk of 3'/2-4 hrs. or a drive of l]/2-2 hrs. [Cabs should be hired by the hour, as shown under b on p. 22.] The view is best in the late afternoon.

The hill which bounds Naples on the "W. , with its villages and numerous charming villas, derives its name of Posilipo, or Posil- lipo, from Pausflypon ('sans-souci'), the villa of the notorious epicure Vedius Pollio, afterwards the property of Augustus, which was gradually -extended to the whole hill. The Posilipo is most conveniently visited either from the Corso Vittorio Emanuele or from the Villa Nazionale. We begin with the former.

The *Via Tasso (PI. B, A, 6), finished in 1885, which diverges from the Corso Vitt. Emanuele beside the Hotel Tramontano (see p. 84) and gradually ascends the hill of Posilipo, commands most beautiful views of Naples and its bay, and of Vesuvius. The street from the Corso to the top of the hill is barely l1/^ M. in length, but for the ascent about 3/4 hr. is required. The first house on the left is the International Hospital (p. 24). Farther on are some new villas. At the top is the Trattoria Pallino (p. 21).

The 'Strada Belvedere' (PI. A, 6) , leading from the Vomero (p. 82) and running destitute of view, between garden- walls , is joined by the Via Tasso, and then ascends, under the name of 'Strada Patrizi', the long hill of Posilipo to the S. Here and there the garden-walls cease and allow of a beautiful view across the Bay of Pozzuoli to Cape Miseno and Ischia. A little before we reach the (l3/4 M.) village of Posilipo , the road crosses the line of the Posilipo grottoes (see p. 86) , which pierce the hill 465 ft. lower. A new quarter here, for which the name Parco Savoia has been pro- posed, is to be connected with the entrance of the new grotta by means of a lift. The road beyond Posilipo, which commands beau- tiful views, continues in the same direction past the village of Strato on the right, to (2 M.) the Strada Nuova di Posilipo, which we reach at its highest point, near the Villa Thalberg (a little moTe than 3 M. from the junction of the Via Tasso). The distance back to Naples by the Strada Nuova di Posilipo is about 4 M. (to the Piazza Umberto, PL B, 7, about 3 M.). Comp. p. 87.

The Piazza Umberto (p. 33), at the W. end of the Villa Nazio- nale, is adjoined on the N.W. by the long Piazza la Torbetta (PI. B, 7), in which are a tramway-station (Nos. 1 and 7, pp. 22, 23) and the station for the steam-tramway to Puorigrotta, Bagnoli, and Poz- zuoli (No. 5, p. 23). The Mergellina (p. 86) diverges here to the S.W., while the Strada di Piedigrotta leads straight W. to the hill of Posilipo.

The Strada di Piedigrotta (PI. B, A, 7), along which the above- mentioned steam-tramway runs , brings us in 5 min. to the small

86 Route 3. NAPLES. VI. Hill of

Piazza hi Pibdigiiotta, where the Corso Vittorio Emamiele diverges (p. 84). At this point rises the church of S. Maria di Piedigrotta, a building of the 13th cent., but much altered, and finally restored in 1850 after the return of Pius IX. from Gaeta. It contains a very old picture of the Madonna, and an interesting Pieta in the Fle- mish-Neapolitan style, the wings evidently executed under Sienese influence (2nd chapel to the right). The large side-chapel, to the right of the high-altar, contains the tombs of the Filangieri, and a statue of Gaetano Filangieri, the famous jurist (see p. 146). — For the festival of Piedigrotta, see p. 28.

The continuation of the Strada di Piedegrotta forms the Grotta Nuova di Posilipo(Pl. A, 7), a tunnel bored in 1882-85 through the hill of Posilipo to replace the old Grotta (now closed) , and giving passage to the steam-tramway and other traffic, which creates a deafening noise. It is 800 yds. long (or with the approaches 1100 yds.), 40ft. high, and 40 ft. wide, and is always lighted with gas. On a few days in March and October, the setting sun shines directly through the grotto, producing a magic illumination. — At the W. end of the tunnel is the village of Fuorigrotta (p. 92).

The Old Grotto, reached by the old road diverging to the left from the approach to the new Grotto, but now closed, is a masterpiece of ancient engineering, probably constructed in the reign of Augustus. It is men- tioned by Seneca and Petronius , under Nero , as a narrow and gloomy pass. MediEeval superstition attributed it to magic arts practised by Virgil. King AlphoDSo I. (about 1442) enlarged the opening; a century later Don Pedro de Toledo caused the road to be paved; and it was again im- proved by Charles III. (1754).

Among the vineyards above the old road, to the S.E., is an ancient Ro- man Columbarium, popularly known as the Tomb of Virgil (now quite inaccessible). The name of the monument is without satisfactory historical foundation, but probability and local tradition favour the assumption that this was Virgil's last restingplace. The poet, as he himself informs us, here composed his immortal works , the Georgics and the jEneid, and he unquestionably possessed a villa on the Posilipo, and by his express wish was interred here after his death at Brundisium, B.C. 19, on his return from Greece. Petrarch is said to have visited this spot accompanied by King Robert, and to have planted a laurel, which at the beginning of the present century fell a prey to the knives of relic-hunters, and has since been re- placed. It is on record that in 1326 the tomb was in a good state of preservation, and contained a marble urn with nine small pillars, the frieze of which bore the well-known inscription : —

Mantua me genuit, Calabri rapuere, tenet nunc Parthenope : cecini pascua, rura, duces. Of all this no trace now remains. The following inscription was placed here in 1554 : —

Qui cineres ? tumuli hsec vestigia : conditur olim Ille hie qui cecinit pascua, rura, duces.

To the S.W. of thePiazzaLaTorretta(p.85) diverges the Strada di Mergellina (PI. B, 7), which 5min. farther on crosses the Corso Vitt. Emanuele (pp. 85, 82: ordinary cab-fare to this point), and forms the entrance of the Strada Nuova di Posilipo. The last begins about y2 M. from La Torretta, before the street turns a corner.

Posilipo. NAPLES. 3. Route. 87

A little before this corner, we observe above us to the right the small Chiesa del Sannazaro, or S. Maria del Parto. (We ascend the approach to the church and mount the steps to the left, -which lead in three flights to the terrace above the houses Nos. 10-17.) The church stands on the site of a small estate -which King Frede- rick II. of Arragon presented in 1496 to the poet Jacopo Sanna- zaro (b. at Naples, 1458), for whom he entertained the highest regard. After his villa had been destroyed by the French, the aged poet caused the church to be erected by monks of the Servite order in 1529. It derives its name from his Latin poem, 'De partu Vir- ginis' (Naples, 1526).

The church contains a high-altar and six chapels. In the 1st chapel to the right, St. Michael overcoming Satan, by Leonardo da Pistoja. The devil is represented with the features of a woman of whom Diomedes Carafa, Bishop of Ariano, was once passionately enamoured. Behind the high-altar is the monument of the poet (d. 1530), executed by Fra Giovanni da Monlorsoli from a design by Oirolamo Santacroce. At the sides Apollo and Minerva , popularly believed to be David and Judith ; on a bas-relief between them Neptune and Pan, with fauns, satyrs, and nymphs singing and playing, an allusion to Sannazaro's poem 'Arcadia' ; above is the sar- cophagus with the bust of the poet, which bears his academic name: Aclius Sincerus. The inscription at the base of the monument by Bembo ('Maroni . . . Musa proximus ut tumulo') alludes to the poet's having imitated Virgil. His principal works are idyls, elegies, and epigrams in Latin.

The **Strada Nuova di Fosilipo, which at first skirts the coast, and then gradually ascends round the S. slope of the hill, was be- gun in 1812 during the reign of Murat, and completed in 1823. It leads between many beautifully situated villas, commanding exquisite views, and should on no account be omitted from the traveller's programme. The tramway map be taken as far as the station of Posilipo (No. 1, p. 22). Comp. Map, p. 92.

Immediately at the beginning of the street rises the Villa Angri. On the left ('/2 M. from the Chiesa del Sannazaro), we next ob- serve on the sea the picturesque ruins of the Palazzo di Donn' Anna (erroneously called that of the Regina Giovanna) , begun in the 17th cent, by Fansaga for Donna Anna Carafa, wife of the viceroy Duke of Medina, but never completed. To the left, on the coast, just before reaching the Palazzo di Donn' Anna, we pass the Trattoria dellaSirena, mentioned at p. 21 ; in the Palazzo itself are two other trattorie, and just beyond it is the Trattoria dello Scoglio di Frisio. In front of the adjacent Marine Hospital, a curious group of statuary (St. Francis, Dante, Columbus, and Giotto) was erected in 1883.

Boats for returning are generally to be found below the restaurants : to the Villa iy2, to the town 2-3 fr. ; Cab from the Piazza del Plebiscito to the Frisio 1 fr. (bargain necessary). The tramway-cars mentioned at p. 22 also pass the Villa.

The road leaves the sea and ascends in windings round the spur of the hill. To the left the Villa Cottrau, which stretches from the road to the sea, and the Villa Rendell, in which Garibaldi (d. 1882), spent his last winter (tablet at the entrance). Also other villas.

88 Route 3. NAPLES. VI. Posilipo.

About II/4 M. from the Frisio , beyond a church on the right with a relief of the Madonna over its portal, a road diverges to the left, descending past the Villa De la Hante to the Capo di Posilipo. Farther on, on the hill to the right, is the colossal Mausoleum of Baron Schilizzi, in the Egyptian style. The small church of S. Maria del Faro , in the vicinity, occupies the site of an old lighthouse. We here command a beautiful view towards Naples.

The main road ascends for V2 M. more. At the top of the hill, near the Villas Thalberg and Sanssouci, it is joined by the road described at p. 85. — [A footpath to the left leads to (iy2 M.) the fisher-hamlet of Marechiaro , where there is a favourite trattoria. A few fragments here are said to belong to the villa of VediusPollio (see p. 85). J — The road then passes through a deep cutting to a (V4 M.) projecting round platform which commands a magnificent *View towards Bagnoli, Camaldoli, Pozzuoli, Eaja, and Ischia.

The road now descends on the "W. side of the Posilipo, com- manding a fine view the whole way. On the left, 1/i M. below the round platform, is the entrance to the so-called Grotto op Sejanus, a passage hewn through the rock of the Posilipo, about 990 yds. in length , resembling the old Grotta di Posilipo (fee 1 fr. ; the in- spection occupies about */2 nr-).

This is the tunnel whose construction is ascribed by Strabo to U. Cocceius Nevva (B. C. 37), almost simultaneously with that of the Julian harbour on the Lucrine lake by M. Agrippa. It is therefore a mistake to associate it with the name of Sejanus, as it is of much earlier origin. An inscription records that the tunnel was repaired by the Emp. Honorius about the year 400. At the E. end of this passage, especially near the rocky promontory of La Gajola, the most beautiful views are obtained of Nisida, Procida, Ischia, Capri, and the bay of Naples.

The custodian conducts the visitor from the grotto to a vineyard in the vicinity (fee 30-50 a), whence a magnificent view is enjoyed (from the top of the hill on the right, to which visitors should request to be con- ducted). Here also some of the scattered fragments of the Pausilypon, or villa of Vedins Pollio (p. 85), are visible, extending from the slope of the hill down to the sea, and overgrown with myrtles, erica, and broom. — In the adjoining property, visible through the hedge, we observe the Scuola, or properly Scoglio (rock) di Virgilio, perhaps once a temple of Fortune, or of Venus Euploea , to whom mariners sacrificed after a prosperous voyage. — The fish-ponds, in which the cruel Vedius was in the habit of feeding large lampreys with the flesh of his slaves, lay nearer the town. — A small Theatre is also seen, which belonged to a villa of Lucullus, with seventeen rows of seats hewn in the rock. Besides these are numerous other relics of villas (comp. p. 85).

The S.W. spur of the Posilipo is called Capo Coroglio, opposite which rises the small rocky island of Nisida, the Nesis of the an- cients, an extinct crater, which opens towards the S. On the quay is a Quarantine building. On the N. side is a rock, connected with the mainland by a breakwater, and bearing the Lazzaretto. The building on the height is a bagno for criminals.

The son of Lucullus possessed a villa on this island, to which Brutus retired after the murder of Csesar in the spring of B. C. 44, and where he was visited by Cicero. He took leave here of his wife Portia on his departure for Greece, previous to the battle ofPhilippi, the news of which caused her to commit suicide by swallowing burning coals. In the 15th

Camaldoli. NAPLES. 3. Route. 89

cent. Queen Johanna II. possessed a villa on the island ofNisida, which was converted into a fort for the purpose of keeping the fleet of Louis of Anjou in check.

From the entrance of the Grotto of Sejanus to Bagnoli (p. 93) is about il/t M., so that the whole distance thither from the Villa Nazionale (p. 32) is ahout 6 M. Bagnoli is a station on the railway and the tramway to Pozzuoli (p. 93).

Camaldoli.

An Excursion to Camaldoli and back, including stay there, takes 4-472 hrs. by carriage (with one horse 6, two-horse 9-10 fr.); on foot 4'/2-5V2 hrs.; on donkey-back a little less (2-272 fr. and a trifling fee to the attendant). The bridle-path from Antignano, which walkers will find pleasant, cannot be mistaken if the following directions be attended to (see also Plan, p. 18, and Map, p. 92). — The early morning and the evening lights are the most favourable for the views, particularly the latter. The traveller, however, should start on the return-journey in good time, as the path is rough in places, and it is anything but pleasant to walk through the beggar-haunted suburbs of Naples after dusk. — The monastery is forbidden ground for ladies, who, however , may reach an equally good point of view a little lower (p. 90). The monks supply bread and wine on request, but in any case expect a donation (72 fr. for one pers., 1 fr. for a party).

The Carriage Road to Camaldoli begins at Cangiani (PI. A, 1, 2; comp. also the Map at p. 92), the N.W. gate of the customs wall ('Muro Fiuanziere' or 'Cinta daziaria') that describes a wide circle round Naples. This point is reached from the Villa Nazionale ■via the Grotta di Posilipo and Fuorigrotta (p. 92) and thence by the gradually ascending road outside the customs wall (comp. PI. A, 5; carr. in l-l1/^ hr.) ; or (somewhat shorter) from the Corso Vitt. Emanuele up the Via Tasso, then by the Strada di Belvedere via Antignano and Archetiello (see below), and finally by the road out- side the wall. In about 1/o hr. from the Cangiani gate, carriages reach Nazaret, a group of houses to the N. of Camaldoli. Here we alight (guide unnecessary), pass through the archway with a tablet bearing the name of the place (beside the Trattoria Fracchiacconi), turn to the left a little farther on, follow the cart-road along the slope ofthehill,passthroughahollowway, and then gradually ascend. Bearing to the right we reach the N. corner of the wall of the monastery-garden in l/4 hr., and proceeding to the right, immediately afterwards the entrance.

Pedestrians, after taking the cable-tramway to the Bione Vomero, traverse first this new quarter and then the village of Antignano (PL C, B, 4), and soon reach V Archetiello (PI. B, 4; so called from a former gate), where there is an office of the Dazio Consumo , or municipal customs on comestibles. About 200 paces farther on, we take the bridle - path diverging to the left a little on this side of the 'Villa Curcio:, and passing a group of houses. The path then immediately passes under a viaduct and enters a hollow (to which point our Plan of Naples extends : A, 4, 3). The path runs between

90 Route 3. NAPLES. Camaldoli.

bushes and pines. (The path diverging to the left beneath an archway, i/4 M. farther, must not be followed.) After 20 min., beyond an archway through which we pass, the path turns by two semi-detached houses a little to the left to the (4 min. J farm -build- ings of Camaldolilli, and passes through the wooden gate, imme- diately beyond which it ascends to the right at a sharp angle, in the direction of the yellow Trattoria di Campagna, affording a fine view of S. Elmo, Naples, Vesuvius, and the bay. After 7 min., at the point where the path descends slightly, a path diverges to the right to Nazaret, while our route descends to the left and skirts a gorge, through which is obtained a fine view of Capri. In 3 min. more, at a grotto-like hollow in the rocks (on the right), we pass a path turning sharply to the left, and in 7 min. reach a point where another path diverges to the right to Nazaret and a forest-path leads to the left, while the main path to Camaldoli runs in a straight direction, soon ascending rapidly. Where the road divides, 5 min. farther, we keep straight on, and in 7 min. more we turn to the right to a closed gate, on passing through which riders have to pay 20 c. and walkers 15 c. each. The path then skirts the wall of the monastery-garden, rounds the N.W. corner, where it is joined by the path from Pianura via Nazaret (p. 89), and where the path to the point of view outside the monastery (see below) diverges. We reach the entrance to the monastery in 5 min. more. Visitors ring at the gate.

**Camaldoli, a monastery of the Camaldulensian order found- ed in 1585, was suppressed by the Italian government iu 1863, but in 1885 passed into private hands and is still inhabited by ten monks. It stands on the E. summit of an amphitheatre of hills which enclose the Phlegraean plain on the N., being the highest point near Naples (1475 ft ), and commands one of the most magni- ficent views in Italy. The monastery and church contain nothing worth seeing, and we therefore proceed at once to the garden. The best point of view is straight before us. The view embraces the bays of Naples, Pozzuoli, and Gaeta, the widely extended capital (of which a great part is concealed by S. Elmo) with its environs, the Agnano valley, the craters of Solfatara and Astroni, the pro- montories of Posilipo and Misenum, the islands of Nisida, Procida, andlschia, and the districts of Baiae, Cumse, andLiternum. Towards the S. the view is bounded by Capri and the Punta della Campa- nella. The small towns of Massa, Sorrento, and Castellammare are visible; also Monte Sant' Angelo, the smoking cone of Vesuvius, and the luxuriant plain at its base. To the W. stretches the open sea, with the islands of Ponza, Ventotene, S. Stefano, and Isola delle Botte.

Parties which include ladies (p. 89), may reach a scarcely in- ferior point of view, by striking off by the path descending to the right, between the N.W. corner of the monastery-wall and the en-

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trance (see p. 90), and then proceeding along the slope beneath the wall to a (8 min.) gate (marked lVcduta Pagliana'~), for open- ing which a fee of 25 c. for each person is demanded.

At the S. base of Camaldoli lies the village of Soccavo, to which a steep and rough path descends in 3/4 hr. from the Veduta Pagliana, shortly before the 25 c. gate is reached.

4. Pozzuoli, Baise, Misenum, and Cumse.

The Phlegraean Plain, a district to the W. of Naples, has from time immemorial been a scene of tremendous volcanic activity, and as lately as the 16th cent, has undergone vast changes , of which the traveller will observe traces at every step. This tract is, however, scarcely less interesting in an historical than in a physical point of view. It was here that Hellenic civilisation first gained a footing in Italy, and constant communication was thenceforth maintained between this portion of the peninsula and the East. The legends of Hellenic tradition are most intimately associated with these coasts, and the poems of Homer and Virgil will continue to invest it with a peculiar interest as long as classic literature exists. The prosperity of this lovely coast has long since departed. The grand creations of imperial Rome, the innumerable palatial villas of the Roman aristocracy, have long been converted into a chaotic heap of ruins by convulsions of nature, and have left behind comparatively slight traces of their former magnificence. The malaria prevails in many parts of the district; but the inexhaustible beauties of Italian nature are still invested with the same charms as they possessed two thousand years ago. Islands and promontories , bays and lakes , and singularly beautiful indentations of the coast form the chief features of this scenery, which is perhaps without rival.

One day is sufficient to visit the chief points of interest, with the ex- ception of the Lago d'Agnano, which is not specially attractive, and Cu- mse, which is interesting chiefly to archaeological students. Railway (Fer- rovia Cumana, see below) in the morning to (3A hr.) Baia, thence walk or drive to Cape Misenum and On to the Lago del Ftifaro (on foot 5-6 hrs. incl. halt; carr. 2'/;:-3 hrs.); return by railway to (20-25 min.) Pozzuoli, and after visiting the Temple of Serapis, the Amphitheatre, and also the Sol- fatara (I1/2 hr.), reach p/4 hr.) Naples by the steam -tramway. Those, however, who have more time should devote two days to exploring this region as follows. Fiest: Take the tramway to the station of Agnano in 25 min.; thence on foot to the Lago d'Agnano, V* hr., where the Dog Grotto is scarcely worth a visit ; walk over the hill ("View) to the Sol- fatara, 1 hr. ; halt there, 20 min. ; walk to Pozzuoli, and visit the Amphi- theatre, Temple of Serapis, Harbour, and Cathedral, I1/2 hr. ; drive (car- riages generally to be found in Pozzuoli) back to Naples by the Strada Nuova di Posilipo (which route must be expressly stipulated for ; 4 fr. and fee), 1V4 hr.; in all 5-5'/2 hours. If we take the railway on to Bagnoli, and return thence on foot to Naples, we require I1/2 hr. more. — Second: Take the railway to Baja, and proceed thence as above via, Miseno to the Lago del Fusaro. Energetic travellers may add the walk or drive to Cuma, returning via the Arco Felice (i'/a-2 hr3.)

Railway. The Ferrovia Cumana begins at Monte Santo, to the W. of the Toledo (p. 40), and parses beneath the Castel S. Elmo by a tunnel, i'/a M. long, to the (l3/4 M.) Corso Viltorio Emanuele station (p. 84), which is the most convenient for the majority of travellers (omnibus from the Piazza S. Ferdinando, see p. 23). — Beyond another tunnel is (2>/2 M.). Fuorigrotta (see p. 92). — The following stations are: 5 M. Bagnoli (p. 93), 71/2 M. Pozzuoli (p. 93). 8V2 M. Arco Felice (p. ill), 10 M. Lago Lucrino (p. 97), IOV2 M. Baja (p. 99), It M. Cuma-Fusaro (p. 102), 12'/2 M. Torregaveta (p. 102). Fares from the Corfo Viltorio Emanuele: tu Pozzuoli 1 l'r. 10, 65, 30c, return 1 fr. 75, 1 f r. 5, 60c. ; to Baja, 1 fr. 10, 1 fr., 56c, return 2 fr. 75, 1 fr. 60, 1 fr.; to Cuma-Fusaro 1 fr. 80, 1 fr. 10, 60c, return 2 fr. 90, 1 fr. 80, 1 fr. 5 c.

92 Route i. LAGO D'AGNANO. Environs

Steam Tramway (Tram a Vapore) from La Torrelta at Piedigrotta (PI. B, 7). ihe terminus of the tramway-line No. 1 (p. 22), to Pozzuoli in 3/4 hr., almost every li/2 hr. from 5.30 a.m. (fares 65 and 50 c). The intermediate stations are Fuorigrotta (see below); Pilastri; Agnano (see below); Bagnoli (p. 93); La Pietra, and Subveni Homini.

Carnages. A carriage with two horses for the day costs 20-25 fr., with one horse 10-12 fr. ; a distinct bargain shonld be made beforehand. — Cab-tariff to Bagnoli and Pozzuoli (from the stand in the Strada di Piedigrotta) comp. p. 22.

Guides. The following directions, the map, and a slight knowledge of the language will enable the traveller to dispense with a guide. Those, however, who desire to avoid the importunities of the guides at Pozzuoli and Baja may engage a cicerone at Naples for the excursion (6 fr. ; see p. 30). The Naples guides undertake the hiring of a carriage, the pay- ment of fees, etc. , thus relieving the traveller of all trouble (total cost for two persons with one-horse carriage about 20 fr.).

The village of Fuorigrotta lies at the exit from the Grotta di Posilipo (p. 86). The steam - tramway halts in the piazza beside the little church of S. Vitale, in the vesitibule of which is buried the poet Count Giac. Leopardi (b. at Recanati in 1798, d. at Naples in 1837). The station of the Ferrovia Cumana is 1/i M. from the piazza (take the Via Giac. Leopardi , on the right of the church, and turn to the right at the railway).

Bagnoli is about 2l/2 M. from Fuorigrotta, beyond the interme- diate tramway - stations of Pilastri and Agnano. From Agnano a broad road planted with trees diverges to the dried up Lago dAg- nano, 3/4 M. from the tramway.

The Lago d' Agnano, which was drained in 1870, is an old crater of irregular form, 21/t 31. in circumference. On the S. bank, immediately to the right of the point where the road reaches it , are the old Stufe di San Germane, or chambers in which the hot sulphureous fumes rising from the ground here are collected for the use of sick persons (adm. 1 fr. each person). A few paces farther on is the famous Grolta del Cane, or Bog Grotto. It derives its name from the fact that the ground and sides are so thoroughly impregnated with carbonic acid gas, that the fumes ren- der dogs insensible in a few seconds, and produce a feeling of languor on human beings. Dogs are provided for the exhibition of this somewhat cruel experiment, but the curiosity of the traveller may be sufficiently gratified by observing that a light is immediately extinguished when brought in contact with the vapour. Pliny (Hist. Nat. ii. 93) mentions this grotto as : 'spiraeula et aerobes Charonere mortiferum spiritum exha- lantes in agro Puteolano'. (Adm. 1/2 fr- each person; 1 fr. more is de- manded for the experiments with the dog and the light.)

From the Lago dAgnano to Pozzuoli, I1/4 hr., a pleasant footpath leads across the hills to the W. By a solitary house, about 8 min. from the Dog Grotto, a road diverges to the left from the above-mentioned Astroni road, and skirts the N. base of the Monte Spina. After 3 min. we turn to the right, and in 10 min. more to the right again; where the road divides into three (2 min.) we turn to the left, then immedia- tely afterwards to the left again, continuing to follow the main road. At a farm-house (10 min.) the road narrows to a footpath, which ascends steeply past ancient walls to a (8 min.) white building and yard, through which we pass by a door on the left. The Villa Sarno, to the left, a little farther on, the tenant of which admits visitors and courteously provides refreshments , is a decayed villa of the Prince Cariati , commanding a beautiful "View from the upper terrace. Passing through a narrow dell, the path leads in 8 min. more to the top of the hill, where we take the road to the right. Looking back, we obtain abeautiful glimpse of Nisida and Capri, and immediately after, by the (5 min.) Capuchin monastery of

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S. Gennaro (p. 95), we enjoy a superb "Survey of Pozzuoli and its bay. the Capo Miseno, and Jschia. After about 4 min. more in a straight di- rection , we may either to the right to the entrance of the Solfatara (p. 95), or to the left to (1/4 hr.) Pozzuoli.

The road skirting the W. bank of the dried lake leads to (1 M.) the royal chasse or park of Astroni, the largest and most important of the vol- canic craters in this region, being upwards of3 3L in circumference, and densely overgrown with holm-oaks and poplars. On the S. side it contains a small lake, and in the centre an eminence of trachytic lava. Picturesque, but somewhat dull park-scenery. Driving is practicable only as far as the margin of the crater. We then ascend the old road to the left to the large gate, where we show our 'permesso' (see p. 35). Fee 1/2 fr. The park is sometimes closed in spring, on account of the breeding-season.

"When the line approaches the coast, the island oiNisida (p. 88) becomes visible on the left.

Bagnoli (Ristor. Figlio di Pietro, at the tramway-station ; Caffe Lombardo, at the railway) is a small watering-place with hot springs, some of which contain salt and carbonic acid gas, others sulphur and iron. There are several bath and lodging-houses. Bagnoli is much frequented by Neapolitans in July, August, and September. There are two railway-stations : Bagnoli and Terme. From Bagnoli by the Strada Nuova di Posilipo to Naples, see pp. 89-87.

From Bagnoli to Pozzuoli, 2l/% M., the road and railway skirt the coast. In the lava hills (pierced by one long and two short railway -tunnels) which rise near the sea are extensive quarries (petriere), where convicts are employed. The tramway stops just outside the town at an archway forming the entrance; the railway passes through a tunnel beneath the town and halts on the N. side.

Pozzuoli. — Restaurants, generally mediocre and dear : Ristor. Mi- lanese (formerly Bella Venezia), with E., at the harbour, near the railway- station, is perhaps the best; Ristor. G. Polisana (Figlio di Pietro), in an old convent close to the sea, near the tramway-station.

Guides, Car-drivers, Donkey-boys, and Beggars assail the traveller per- tinaciously the moment he arrives. The services of the guides may well be dispensed with. For a walk through the town, to the Amphitheatre, and the Temple of Serapis 1 fr., or, with the addition of the Solfatara, l'/zfr., suffices; donkey to the Solfatara 1 fr. — The guides and others also importune visitors to buy 'antiquities', which are manufactured at Naples and then buried to give them the requisite coating of rust or verdigris. Genuine antiquities may be purchased of De Griscio, in the place in front of the church of the Deipara, mentioned at p. 95.

Steamboat to Procida and Casamiceiola, see p. 104.

Those who arrive by Tramway should turn to the right (comp. p. 85) and ascend to the Solfatara, Amphitheatre, and Temple of Serapis (l3/4-2 hrs. incl. stay). The harbour may be visited on returning, if time permit. — Those who arrive by Railway (Ferrovia Cumana) first descend from the station to the high-road, follow this to the right to (2 min.) the lane on the right, in which is the entrance to the Temple of Serapis. Then ascend the lane farther, cross the railway, and turn to the right to the high-road leading uphill; thence either cross the high-road diagonally and after 120 paces take to the left the paved 'Strada Mandra', lending to the place in front of the Deipara (p. 95) whence the 'Via Anflteatro' leads to the left to the Amphitheatre (10-12 min. from the Temple of Serapis); or ascend the high-road (see above) to the left as far as the Ufflzio Daxiario, there turn sharp to the right, and proceed to the Amphitheatre (25 min. from the temple). From the Amphitheatre proceed as indicated on p. 95, pass to the left of the Deipara, ascend to the Solfatara (there and back '/, hr.)

94 Route 4. POZZUOLI. Environs

and descend to the tramway-terminua at the B. entrance of the town (in all a walk of 2 hrs.).

Pozzuoli , a quiet town with. 16,000 inhab. , situated on a projecting Mil and at its base, on the bay of the same name, which forms part of the Bay of Naples, was founded at an early period by the Greeks and named by them Dicaearchia. It was subdued by the Romans in the Samnite wars, repeatedly colo- nised by them, and called by them Puteoli. It afterwards be- came the most important commercial city in Italy, and the prin- cipal depot for the traffic with Egypt and the East, whence Oriental forms of worship were introduced here at an early pe- riod. St. Paul on his journey to Rome spent seven days here (Acts, xxviii). Several ruins, which lie close to the modern town, bear witness of its ancient importance. The town itself presents few attractions. — The volcanic puzzolana earth found in the whole of this district, from which an almost indestructible cement is manufactured, derives its name from Pozzuoli.

From the tramway-terminus a broad paved road ascends to the right in windings, leading to the upper town (see below). — Enter- ing by the gate straight in front of us we soon reach the principal Piazza, in which rise the statue of a senator, bearing the name of Q. Flav. Mavortius Lollianus, discovered in 1704 (head originally not belonging to this statue, but also ancient), and that of Bishop Leon y Cardenas, viceroy of Sicily under Philip III. — Hence a street to the left runs to the harbour, while the Via Cavour to the right leads to a large square, stretching from the harbour to the station of the Ferrovia Cumana.

At the harbour are the remains of the ancient pier, called by Seneca Pilae, by Suetonius Moles Puteolanae, and now Ponte di Caligola. Of twenty-five buttresses, which supported twenty-four arches, sixteen are left, three being under water. They are constructed of bricks and puzzolana earth, and bear an in- scription recording that the pier was restored by Antoninus Pius. A common , but erroneous impression is , that they were con- nected with the bridge -of- boats which Caligula threw across the bay of Baiee, in order that, clad in the armour of Alexander the Great , he might there celebrate his insane triumph over the Parthians. — A few yards on the other (N.) side of the square (see above) we reach a lane (with a sign marked 'Bagni di Sera- pide') diverging to the right from the high-road and leading to the Temple of Serapis (p. 96).

Most travellers will , however, follow the paved road leading to the right (see above) from the tramway-terminus. If at the first bend in this road we turn to the left, we soon reach the Piazza del Muni- cipio , whence we may follow the Via del Duomo and its second side-street to the left to the cathedral of 8. Proculo. This occupies the site of a temple of Augustus, erected by L. Calpurnius, six

of Naples. POZZUOLI. 4. Route. 95

Corinthian columns from which are still outside. The church con- tains relics of St. Proculus and the monuments of the Duke of Montpensier, Governor of Naples under Charles VIII. of France, and of Giovanni Battista Pergolese of Jesi, the talented composer of the original Stabat Mater, who died at Pozzuoli in 1736 at the age of 26.

We return to the broad road outside the town and ascend it farther, passing the yellow barracks of the Guardie di Finanze (Via Carlo Rosini) and the reddish building of the former Hotel Grande Bretagne. After about 12 min. we reach an oblong, the E. (right) end of whichis bounded by the Orfanotrofio Carlo Rosini, fororphan- girls, and the little church Deiparce Consolatrici Sacrum. The road to the left leads to the Amphitheatre (see below), that straight on, past the facade of the church, to the Solfatara. The latter ascends through vineyards. The ascent to the entrance of the Solfatara on foot takes 20 min. (adm. V2 *'r- each person) ; 8 min. more to the actual spot.

The Solfatara is the crater of a half-extinct volcano, an oblong space enclosed by hills of pumice-stone , from numerous fissures ('fumaroli') in which vapours and sulphureous gases ascend. The ground is hollow in every direction. The powder found at the top, which the guides erroneously call saltpetre, is really ceramohalite, or sulphuretted potter's clay. The ancients (Strabo) called this crater Forum Vulcani, and believed it to be connected with the crater of Ischia. The only recorded eruption from it, attended with an emis- sion of lava, took place in 1198. — Above the Solfatara, towards the E. , rise the Colles Leucogaei, the white hills whose light-coloured dust was so highly prized by the ancients for colouring groats and other kinds of grain. Several small brooks containing alum have their source here, called I Pisciarelli, the Fontes Leucogaei of the ancients (Plin. Nat. Hist. xxxi. 2), which fall steaming into a ravine be- tween the Solfatara and the Lago dJAgnano.

Shortly before our route reaches the Solfatara It is .ioined on the right by a road coming from the Lago d'Agnano (p. 92). The 'View on the latter road is so fine that the traveller should not omit to ascend as far as (6 min.) the Capuchin monastery of S. G-ennaro, erected in 1580 on the spot where St. Jarmarius is said to have been beheaded in 305, and (»/2 M. farther) the Villa Sarno (p. 92).

"We now return to the open space before the D eipara and traversing itlengthwise to the N.W., passingthe antiquarian depot of De Criscio, enter the Via Anflteatro, which brings us in less than 3 min. to the entrance of the Amphitheatre, the most interesting and perfect of all the ruins of Pozzuoli (admission 1 fr. ; Sundays gratis).

The *Araphitheatre rests on three series of arches, which were surrounded by an external court ; the two principal entrances were adorned with triple colonnades. The interior contained four tiers of seats in several compartments (cunei), connected by flights of steps. The imperial seat was distinguished by Corinthian columns of black

96 Boute 4. POZZUOLI.

Environs

marble. The arena, 369 ft. long, and 216 ft. broad, was excavated in 1838 , when a number of subterranean passages and receptacles for the wild beasts, etc., 98 paces long and 53 broad, were dis- covered. By means of a water conduit (to the left of the principal entrance) the arena could be laid under water when naval combats were to be represented; the outlet is in the principal passage. The entrances for the gladiators, and the air-holes and outlets of the dens of the animals are easily recognised. The celebrated gladiator- combats under Nero, when he received Tiridates, King of Armenia, as a guest at his court, took place here, and even the emperor him- self entered the arena. Under Diocletian St. Januarius and his companions were thrown to the wild beasts here in vain, as an in- scription on the chapel dedicated to him records, before they were put to death near the Solfatara.

On quitting the Amphitheatre we may either return to the space before the Deipara, thence descend the pavedVia Mandra immediately to the right, at the bottom turn to the right, and cross the high- road diagonally (see p. 97) ; — or from the Amphitheatre we may turn at once to the right and proceed, with a fine view of the Bay of Pozzuoli, to (10 min.) the Ufflzio Daziario, there turn sharply to the left and descend the high-road to (8 min.) the junction of the above-mentioned Via Mandra. Hence we proceed to the right, and after 4 min. cross the railway and turn to the left into the Se- rapis lane, leading, between garden-walls, to the entrance of the Temple of Serapis (on the left side).

The so-called Temple of Serapis, or Serapeum, which, how- ever, is more probably an ancient market-hall (macellum, as at Pompeii; see p. 127), consisted of a square court, enclosed by forty-eight massive marble and granite columns, and with thirty- two small chambers adjoining. The portico rested on six Corinthian columns (three of which remain), once bearing a rich frieze. In the centre of the court stood a circular temple , surrounded by a peristyle of sixteen Corinthian pillars of African marble, which have been transferred to the theatre of the palace at Caserta (p. 9), the bases alone being left. The interior was approached by four flights of steps. The statues of Serapis, now in the mu- seum at Naples, were found in the neighbourhood. Two inscrip- tions found here mention the restoration of the temple by Mar- cus Aurelius and Septimius Severus. The ruin was excavated in 1750, but its lower parts, which are under water , were filled up again in order to prevent unhealthy exhalations. — Interesting observations may be made here with respect to the changes which have taken place in the level of the sea at different periods. That it had risen considerably, even in ancient times, is proved by the dis- covery of mosaics 6 ft. below the present level of the pavement and by the different water-marks. Subsequently the lower part of the edifice was buried to a depth of 13 ft., probably by an eruption of

of Naples. LACUS LTJCR1NTJS. 4. Route. 97

theSolfatara. Thenonce more the entire region sank for centuries be- neath the level of the sea. During this period a species of shell- fish (lithodomus, or modiola lithophaga, still found in this vicinity") attacked the exposed middle portions of the columns, while the bases covered with rubbish remained intact. These borings extend to a height of 10 ft., so that at one period the sea -level must have been at least 20 ft. higher than at present. This great change was caused by the convulsion connected with the upheaval of Monte Nuovo (see below) in 1538. Since the last century the ground has again been gradually sinking.

The lower end of the Serapis lane debouches on the high-road, which brings us (on the left) in 3 min. to the piazza in front of the station of the Ferrovia Cumana.

The Temple of Neptune is a name applied to another ruin, to the W of the Serapeum , consisting of a few pillars rising from the sea. In the vicinity, also under water, is situated the so-called Temple of the Nymphs, from which a considerable number of columns and sculptures have been recovered. Farther on, a few fragments mark the site of Cicero's Puteolaneum, a villa delightfully situated on the coast, which the orator in imitation of Plato called his Academy, and where he composed his 'Academica' and 'De Fato\ Hadrian (d. atBaiae, A.D. 138) was temporarily interred within its precincts , and Antoninus Pius erected a temple on the spot.

Above the amphitheatre was situated a theatre , the ruins of which have not yet been excavated. Other ruins in the vicinity , externally of circular construction, are believed to have been either Baths or a Temple of Diana. The Villa Lusciano contains the so-called Labyrinth , really a piscina, or ancient reservoir. The Piscina Grande , with vaulted ceiling, resting on three rows of ten columns each, still serves as a reservoir, and was doubtless once connected with the ancient aqueduct from the Pausi- lypon to Misenum. — Roman Tombs have been discovered in great num- bers on the old roads , the Via Puleolana to Naples , and the Via Cu- mana to Cumae, but most are now mere shapeless ruins. Others in better preservation have been found on the Via Gampana, leading to Capua, which diverges to the right from the road leading to the N.W. beyond the amphitheatre (comp. the Map, p. 93).

The railway to Cumae traverses a short tunnel beyond Pozzuoli and then passes the Cantiere Armstrong , a branch of the well- known cannon and armour-plate works of Armstrong & Co. at Newcastle , actively supported by the Italian government. Fine retrospect of Pozzuoli on the left. — l'/4 M. (from Pozzuoli) Arco Felice, a station at the junction of roads to the Arco Felice (l3/4 M. ; p. 103) and to Cumae (p. 102). The railway skirts the base of the Monte Nuovo (455 ft.), a volcanic hill of comparatively recent origin, having been upheaved on 30th Sept., 1538, after a violent earth- quake. Its form is that of an obtuse cone, in the centre of which is a very deep extinct crater, enclosed by masses of pumice-stone, trachyte, and tufa. The ascent is interesting, and not less so the toilsome descent into the crater.

l3/4 M. Station of hucrino (Hotel de Russie, de'j. 2i/2 fr.), at the E. end of the small Lacus Lucrinus, which is separated from the sea by a narrow strip of land. An ancient embankment here, still to be traced under the water, was called the Via Hercitlea,

Baedeker. Italy III. 11th Edit. 7

98 Route 4. LACUS AVERNUS. Environs

from the tradition that the hero traversed it when driving the hulls of Oeryon across the swamps. The lake was famed for its oysters in ancient times, and the oyster-culture flourishes again, as of yore. The lake yields also the spigola, a fish well-known to the Romans.

About i/2 M. to the N. of the Lacus Lucrinus , a little in- land, bounded on three sides by hills clothed with chestnuts, vineyards, and orange-gardens, lies the celebrated *Lacus Avernus, which was regarded by the ancients as the entrance to the infernal regions on account of its sombre situation and environs. Its banks are now bordered with blocks of lava. Circumference nearly 2 M. ; depth 210 ft. ; height above the sea-level 3y2 ft. Tradition affirmed that no bird could fly across it and live, owing to its poisonous exhalations, and that the neighbouring ravines were the abode of the dismal, sunless Cimmerii, mentioned by Homer (Odyss. xi). Virgil, too, represents this as the scene of the descent of iEneas, conducted by the Sibyl, to the infernal regions (^En. vi. 237). Augustus, by the construction of a naval harbour (Portus Julius), the building of which was entrusted to Agrippa, and by connecting this lake with the Lacus Lucrinus, was the first to dispel these gloomy legends. Horace and Virgil accordingly extol the harbour as a prodigy . — The canals and wharves of Agrippa were still in existence in 1538, but the upheaval of the Monte Nuovo destroyed every vestige of them, half filled the Lucrine Lake, and entirely altered the configuration of the neighbourhood.

On the S. Side of the lake are observed grottoes and cuttings, hewn in the tuffstone rock, which probably once belonged to the Portus Julins. One of these caverns, situated a few hundred paces to the left of the end of the road coming from the Lucrine Lake , and now called the Grotto of the Sibyl, or Grotta d'Averno, is entered by a gateway of brick , and consists of a long, damp passage hewn in the rocks and ventilated by vertical apertures. Midway between the two lakes a passage to the right leads to a small square chamber, the 'Entrance to the Infernal Regions'. Near it is a chamber with mosaic pavement and arrangements for a warm bath. It contains lukewarm water, 1 ft. in depth, which rises in the neighbourhood , and is styled by the guides the 'Bath of the Sibyl'. The grotto is 280 paces in length, and blackened with the smoke of torches. — The visit is on the whole scarcely worth the trouble , and the de- mands of the guides should be beaten down.

On the N.W. Side of the lake is one end of the Grotta delta Pace (p. 103). — On the E. Side are the interesting ruins of magnificent Baths, sometimes called a Temple of Apollo, Pluto, or Mercury.

The Railway runs by the high-road along the strip of land be- tween the Lucrine Lake and the sea, and pierces the Punta dell', Epitaffio, round which the road runs. To the right, before we enter the tunnel, lie the Bagni di Nerone, a long, narrow, dark passage in the rock, at the farther end of which rise several warm springs, the famed Thermae Neronianae of antiquity, and still frequented by invalids. The entire mountain-slope is covered with innumerable fragments of old masonry, passages, colonnades, mosaic-pavements, etc. The hill is pierced by another shorter tunnel, beyond which,

of Naples. BAJA. 4. Route. 99

to the right, is the so-called Temple of Diana, and to the left, the station of Baja, 1/2 M. from the Lacus Lucrinus and 3 M. from Pozzuoli. — Continuation of railway, see p. 102.

Baja. — Restaurants (not suited fornight-quarters): Hotel de la Rhine, near the station, bargaining advisable in spite of the announcement of fixed charges, D. 5, lunch 3'/4, beefsteak l'/2 fr. , A. 25 c; Albekgo della Vittokia, at the foot of the castle, »/i M. farther, to the left of the road, well spoken of, D. 5, dej. 3'/2 fr.

Carriages (one-horse, for 3 pers.) meet the trains; drive to Miseno and the Lago del Fusaro, including waiting at the Piscina Mirabilis and at Cape Miseno, which is ascended on foot, about 6 fr. (previous bargain necessary). — Walkers require 5-6 hrs. for this expedition; guide unne- cessary.

Boat to Pozzuoli for 3-4 persons about 2 fr. ; to Bacoli and Miseno the same ; there and back 3-4 fr. ; according to bargain in each case.

Baja, the ancient Baia>, now regaining some importance, situat- ed on the bay of the same name and commanding a charming view, was the most famous and magnificent watering-place of antiquity, and had attained the zenith of its splendour in the age of Cicero, Augustus, Nero, and Hadrian. 'Nothing in the world can be com- pared with the lovely bay of Baife', exclaims Horace's wealthy Ro- man (Epist. i. 85), who is desirous of erecting a magnificent villa there. Luxury and profligacy, however, soon took up their abode at Baiae, and the desolate ruins which now alone encounter the eye point the usual moral. With the decline of the Roman empire the glory of Baiie speedily departed. In the 8th cent, it was devastated by the Saracens, and in 1500 entirely deserted by its inhabitants on account of malaria.

Of the imposing baths and villas of the Romans , the founda- tions of which were often thrown far out into the sea, nothing but fragments now remain. In modern times these ruins are often exalted into temples, or otherwise dignified in a manner for which there is not the slightest foundation. The principal remains consist of three large vaults which belonged to baths.

We first observe in a vineyard opposite the station, which affords a sufficiently good view of it, a large octagonal building, with a circular interior, a half -preserved dome, and four recesses in the walls , and remains of a water-conduit , styled a Temple of Diana (fee 30-50 c).

Turning to the right on quitting the station, about 150 paces bring us to the Hotel de la Reine, immediately before which, to the right, is the entrance to another vineyard, containing a large circu- lar building, with a vaulted ceiling, open in the centre, and four niches in the walls. This is obviously a bath, but is called a Temple of Mercury, or by the peasantry il troglio (trough). Fine echo in the interior (fee 30-50 c. ; women here offer to dance the tarantella for the traveller's entertainment, 50 c).

About 100 paces farther along the high-road is situated an octagonal structure with a vaulted ceiling, in the interior circular, and 25

7*

100 Route 4. BACOLI. Environs

paces iu diameter , with remains of the ancient lateral chambers, windows, and staircases, somewhat resembling the Minerva Medica at Rome, now called the Temple of Venus. This is a public passage.

The high-road, bordered with a number of modern villas, skirts the bay, and then (to the left, the Hotel Vittoria), passing several ancient columbaria, ascends the hill occupied by the Castle of Baja, which was erected in the 16th cent, by Don Pedro de Toledo. It now contains a small garrison; admission is granted, but is not worth the trouble.

About 2 M. beyond Baja we reach the village of Bacoli, which is believed (not with absolute certainty) to derive its name from the ancient Villa Bauli, and also boasts of a number of antiquities. The traveller who is pressed for time, however , had better confine his attention to the Piscina Mirabilis (see below).

The Villa Bauli is celebrated as having been the frequent residence of distinguished Romans , and it was here that Nero planned the murder of his mother Agrippina, in March, A.D. 59, a crime which was afterwards perpetrated at her villa on the Lucrine Lake. The tomb of Agrippina, of humble pretensions as Tacitus informs us (Ann. xiv. 9), was situated on the height by the road to Misenum, near the villa of Caesar, but the spot cannot now be exactly determined. What is commonly named the Sepolcro cf Agrippina, on the coast below the village, a semicircular pass- age with vaulted ceiling, reliefs, and paintings, is really the ruins of a small theatre. Extensive ruins near this, partly under water, are supposed to belong to the villa of the eminent orator Hortensius, and may be visited by boat. Even the pond in which he reared his favourite lampreys is said to be visible. In this villa Nero is believed to have sanctioned the proposition of his freedman Anicetus, commander of the fleet, to drown his mother Agrippina by sinking her in a ship. The attempt, however, failed.

The Villa of Julius Caesar, on the height near Bauli, was afterwards the property of Augustus, and was occupied by his sister Octavia after the death of her second husband M. Antony; and. here she lost her hopeful son, the youthful Marcellus, whom Augustus had destined to be his suc- cessor. It is believed by many that the subterranean chambers, known as the Cento Cameeelle, or Carceri di Nerone, or the Labyrinth, belonged to the basement story of this villa (fee 1/2 frO- They are sometimes visited by torchlight, but the view from them is the chief attraction.

On the hill to the S. of Bacoli, 10 min. from the entrance to the village, is situated the *Piscina Mirabilis. (Guide unnecessary. We may either leave the road by the Ufflzio Daziario and follow the long street of the village ; or, better , follow the road to the bifurcation mentioned below , and 60 paces beyond it ascend a path diverging to the left from the Misenum road. On the hill we turn to the right. Custodian, whose house is on the right, near the Piscina, '/2 ft. ; he sells vases and other antiquities found in the vicinity.) The Piscina is a reservoir at the extremity of the Julian Aqueduct, 230 ft. in length, 85 ft. in width, with a vaulted ceiling supported by forty-eight massive columns, and admirably preserved. — Following the top of the hill in the same direction I S. ) for 5 min. more, we reach a cottage (good wine), the roof of which commands a very fine view , though inferior to that from the Capo Miseno.

of Naples. CAPO MISENO. 4. Route. 101

Near Bacoli, about '/4 M. beyond tlie Uffizio Daziario, the road forks : the branch to the right leads to Miniscola, that to the left in a straight direction to Misenum. Both of these roads skirt the mar- gin of the shallow Mare Morto, part of the old harbour of Misenum, from which it has only recently been separated by the embankment which bears the road. The two basins are now connected by a narrow channel only, which is crossed by a bridge.

In the time of Augustus a vast war-harbour was constructed at Mise- num by Agrippa, in connection with the works at the Lacus Avernus and the Lacus Lucrinus, in order to serve as a receptacle for theltoman fleet on this coast, like Ravenna in the Adriatic. The harbour consisted of three basins, two outer, one on each side of the promontory called Forno, and one inner, the present Mare Morto. The Punia di Peiuiata, a narrow promontory which bounds the harbour of Misenum on the N., was penetrated by a double subaqueous passage for the purpose of pre- venting the accumulation of sand at the entrance. A pier was also con- structed on pillars, three of which are still visible under water. Other relics of antiquity abound in the neighbourhood , but it is a difficult matter now to ascertain to what they belonged. Even the situation of the Town of Misenum is not precisely known , although it probably lay near the modern village of that name. Scanty remnants of a theatre are still traceable near the small promontory 11 Forno. Some ruins on the height above are supposed to belong to the once famous villa of Lncullus, afterwards the property of Tiberius, who died here, and subsequently that of Nero. The Orotia Dragonara, a long subterranean passage on the W. side of the promontory, with vaulted roof, supported by twelve pillars, is variously conjectured to have been a naval depot or a reser- voir for water.

Beyond the above-mentioned bridge, t/4 M. from the bifurcation of the road, we pass a white powder-mill (smoking forbidden here), and soon reach (!/2 M.) the village of Miseno , situated at the foot of the cape, and proceed to the church. (Driving is not allowed beyond the village.) The ascent (to the top and back I-IV4 nr0 's fatiguing for ladies. A boy may be taken as guide ('in coppa', to the top). AVe follow the main road to the farm, a little before which we ascend to the right ; a steep and narrow path then leads to the summit through vineyards.

The *Capo Miseno is an isolated mass of tufa-rock rising from the sea, which was formerly connected with the mainland only by the narrow Spiaggia di Miniscola (p. 102), extending towards the W. Its remarkable form gave rise to the belief that it was an arti- ficial tumulus of very ancient origin. Thus Virgil (JEn. vi. 232) de- scribes it as the burial-place of the trumpeter Misenus : — At plus jEneas ingenti mole sepulcrum Inponit, suaque anna viro remumque tubamque Monte sub aereo, qui nunc Misenus ab illo Dicitur aeternumqve tenet per saecula nomen.

The summit (300 ft.) commands one of the most striking **Views in the environs of Naples (20 c. to proprietor). It embraces the bays of Naples and Gaeta and the surrounding heights, with the peculiarity that the spectator appears to stand in the midst of a complicated assemblage of straits, peninsulas, bays, lakes, and promontories. On the side next the sea rises a picturesque medieval

102 Route 4. LAGO DEL FUSARO. Environs

watch-tower ; another similar tower has recently been removed to make way for a lighthouse.

Carriages return to where the road forks and follow the road passing to the N. of the Mare Morto. After ahout 1/i M. the road again forks; we follow the branch to the right, leading between the Monte di Procida, a volcanic rock , covered with vineyards yielding excellent wine, and fragments of ancient villas, and the Monte de Salvatichi, to (i3/i M.) Torre di Gaveta and (2^.2 M.) the Lago del Fusaro (see below).

"Walkers cross the narrow strip of coast, about 1 M. in length, separating the sea (Canale di Procida) from the Mare Morto, called the Spiaggia di Miniscola, or Miliscola, a name which is said to he a corruption of Militis Schola ('military exercising-ground'). At the foot of the Monte di Procida, at the point where the road from Baja reaches it, is the landing-place (sbarcatojo) for boats to Procida (p. 104; iy2-2fr.). About i/3 M. to the N. is the junction of the above-mentioned carriage-road, to Torre di Gaveta and the Lago del Fusaro.

The distance by Railway from Baja to the Lago del Fusaro is little more than 1/2 M. Immediately beyond Baja is a short tunnel.

The Lago del Fusaro , perhaps once the harbour of Cumae, to which the poetical name of the Acherusian Lake is sometimes applied, is believed to occupy the crater of an extinct volcano. It is celebrated for its oysters. At the station is an unpretending Trat- toria, and 100 paces farther on is the entrance to the Ostricoltura, with a :':ftestaurant and pleasure-gardens, much frequented in spring and autumn (in summer open on Sun. only). In the lake, opposite the restaurant, is a pavilion or Casino, erected by Ferdinand I. (open to visitors).

The railway ends, ll/i M. farther on, at the Torre di Qaveta, near which are the ruins of the villa of Servilius Vatia, who retired hither when Nero's folly and tyranny at Rome had become in- sufferable.

From the Lago del Fusaro a walk of ahout 3/4 hr. by the road running to the N. past the Ostricoltura brings us to Cumae. About 1% M. from the station of Fusaro the road forks, the branch to the right leading to the Arco Felice (p. 103). In a vigna, about 120 paces before this bifurcation, we observe to the right an ancient Amphitheatre with twenty-one tiers of seats, covered with earth and underwood. If we then follow the branch of the road to the left, and after 90 paces diverge from it, beside a large farm-yard, by a path to the left (last part steep), we are led in i/i hr. to the site of ancient —

Cumse, Greek Cyme, the most ancient Greek colony in Italy, situated near the sea on a voloanic eminence (trachyte), which rises from the extensive plain between the Monte di Procida and the mouth of the Volturno.

of Naples. CUM^E. 4. Route. 103

The town is said to have been founded by iEolians from Asia Minor in B. C. 1050, or at an even earlier period. Cumae in its turn founded Dicaearchia, the modern Pozzuoli, and Palaeopolis, the modern Naples, and exercised the most widely extended influence on the civilisation of the Italian peninsula. All the different alphabets of Italy were derived from the CumEean ; and Cumae was the centre whence the Hellenic forms of worship, and with them Hellenic culture, became gradually diffused among the aboriginal tribes. Rome received the mysterious Sibylline books from Cumae, and the last of the Tarquinii died here in exile. The city, which once boasted of great wealth and commercial prosperity, was often seri- ously imperilled by the attacks of the neighbouring tribes, especially the Etruscans , who were signally defeated in a naval battle near Cumse , by Hiero of Syracuse, the ally of the citizens, B.C. 474. Pindar cel- ebrates this victory in the first Pythian ode , and a helmet of the en- emy dedicated at Olympia as a votive offering from the spoil was found there (now in the British Museum). At the close of the 5th cent. Cumae participated in the general decline of the Hellenistic towns. In 420 it was stormed by the Samnites, and in 337 taken by the Romans, after which it became a Roman municipium of little importance. Under the emperors it fell entirely to decay, but was restored by the Goths. In the 9th cent, it was burned by the Saracens , and in the 13th it was finally destroyed as a stronghold of pirates by the inhabitants of Naples and Aversa.

Fragments of the huge external walls of the former * Acropolis are still standing. Beautiful prospect thence towards the sea, Gaeta, and the Ponza Islands, and (to the left) of the Lago Fusaro, Ischia, etc. Extensive remains of the ancient fortifications are preserved, especially on the E. side and by the S. entrance. The rock on which this castle stood is perforated in every direction with passages and shafts. One of these (descend to the left by the hut), with numerous lateral openings and subterranean passages, is thought to correspond with the description given by Virgil (.(En. vi. 41) of the Grotto of the Sibyl, which had a hundred entrances and as many issues, 'whence resound as many voices, the oracles of the prophetess'. The principal entrance is on the side of the hill towards the sea, but most of the passages are blocked up. It is believed that one of the passages leads to a large, dark cavern in the direction of the Lago del Fusaro. Numerous interesting and valuable objects found here are now preserved at Naples (p. 70), Paris, and St. Petersburg. — The form of the temples of Apollo, Diana, the Giants, and Serapis, where excavations have brought sculptures and columns to light, is not now traceable. The scanty ruins are concealed by vineyards and underwood.

On the return we follow the road, mentioned on p. 1(12, leading to the Arco Felice. After about 400 yds . an ancient paved way diverges to the right to a subterranean vaulted passage, called the Qrotta della Pace (after Pietro della Pace, a Spaniard who explored it in the 16th cent.). It was constructed by Agrippa for the purpose of affording direct commun- ication between Cumae and the Lacus Avernus. This tunnel is upwards of '/jM. in length, and is lighted at intervals by shafts from above. The entrance is closed by a gate (admission 1/2 fr.). The floor is covered with deep fine sand. The tunnel debouches on the N.W. bank of the Lacus Avernus (p. 9S).

About 400 yds. farther the road, still showing traces of the ancient pavement, passes beneath the Arco Felice, a huge structure of brickwork, U3 ft. high and 18'/2 ft. wide, spanning a hollow. On the summit are traces of an aqueduct. The arch may have been exclusively destined for the

104 Route 5. PROCIDA.

latter purpose, or it may also have carried a road over the higher ground. A few min. later the way joins a broad road which follows the top of the E. margin of the Lago Averno and then descends to (30-35 min.) the railway-station of Arco Felice (p. 9?).

5. Procida and Ischia.

Comp. the Map.

Steamboat from Pozzuoli to Procida and Ischia in connection with the Ferrovia Cumana (p. 91), twice daily in l'/2hr.; fares: from Corso Vittorio Emanuele (Naples) to Casamicciola, 3fr. 45, 2 fr. 65, 1 fr. 40 c, return-ticket 5 fr. 20, 4 fr. 20, 2 fr. 15 c; from Pozzuoli to Casamicciola, 1st and 2nd cl. 2 fr. 35, 3rd cl. 1 fr. 20, return, 3 fr. 45, 1 fr. 80 c. In addition 5 c. passenger-duty is charged on each ticket. Return-tickets are valid for four days. — Procida and the towns of Ischia and Forio are also touched at by the Mail Steamers to the Ponza Islands (p. 14, leaving the Immacolatella at Naples, where they lie alongside the quay, on Mon. and Thurs. mornings., returning from Ischia on Tues. and Frid. afternoons). — The voyage from Naples to Procida takes l'/2 hr. ; to Ischia 2>/2 hrs. ; to Forio 3'/2 hrs. — Embarking or landing at Pozzuoli is free; at Procida, Ischia, or Casamicciola 15 c. ; the boatmen are rarely satisfied with this tariff, but their importunities should be disregarded.

The most convenient arrangement for visiting these islands varies with the hour at which the start is made from Naples. Travellers who start early in the morning, have ample time to visit Procida and reach Ischia the same day. — Those who land at Procida , ascend to the fort for the sake of the view, and then either traverse the island lengthwise to the bay of Chiajolella (2 M.), where boats are found for the crossing to Porto a" Ischia; or they may go on by the afternoon steamer to Casamicciola. Those who omit Procida need not start from Naples until the afternoon. Next morning drive to Fontana (one-horse can1, from Casamicciola in 4, from Porto d'Ischia in 3 hrs.), whence Monte Epomeo can easily be ascend- ed in 3/4 hr. It is even possible by making a very early start to return to Naples the same day; but a longer visit is strongly recommended. From Casamicciola to Forio, see p. 107.

A rowing-boat takes 6 hrs. to cross from Ischia to Capri in fine wea- ther (20 fr.).

Procida, the Prochyta or Prochyte of the ancients, like its sister island Ischia, with which it appears once to have been con- nected, is of volcanic origin, being composed of pumice-stone and lava. It consists of two contiguous craters, which now form two semicircular bays, their S. margins having been destroyed by the action of the sea. A third and smaller crater forms the creek of Chiajolella, and a fourth the neighbouring island of Vivara, which has been separated from Procida by some con- vulsion of nature. The island is 2 M. in length, and of varying width; population 14,000, whose occupations are fishing and the cultivation of the vine and other fruit. The surface is somewhat flat compared with that of its more majestic sister isle.

As the island of Procida is approached, the most conspicuous object is the fort, situated on the Punta di Rocciola, the N.E. ex- tremity. Below lies the town of Procida, extending along the N. coast, partly built on the higher ground above, and stretching thence towards the S. side. The white, glistening houses with their flat roofs present a somewhat Oriental aspect. The chief festi- vals on the island are St. Michael's Day (29th Sept.) and 8th May.

PROCIDA. 5. Route. 105

The landing-place ('Marina') is on the N. side. In order to reach the castle we follow the main street of the village {Albergo del Fiori, primitive], which ascends to the left by the Carre del Commercio at the W. end of the Marina, and take the first side-street to the left. This leads to the small Piazza dei Martiri, with a tablet in memory of twelve Procidans who were executed during the reaction of 1799 (fine view towards the S.). In u min. more we reach the Castle, now a house of correction, situated on a precipitous rock, and com- manding fine *Views of ProcidaandtheEpomeo, Capo Miseno, Capri, Vesuvius, and the peninsula of Sorrento.

The above-mentioned main street intersects the town from E. to W., and is prolonged to the left by the 'Strada Yittorio Ema- nuele', which runs between garden-walls and rows of houses, and traverses the whole island towards the S.W. In 40 min. we reach the Bay of Chiajolella, situated below the old chateau of S. Mar- garita, and near the small olive -clad island of Vivara. At the Chiajolella boats for the passage to Ischia are always to be found (3/4 hr. ; fare 2 fr.). As soon as we have passed Vivara, we obtain a view of Ischia with its beautiful hills, commanded by the summit of the Epomeo, with the town and castle of Ischia in the foreground.

Ischia, the Pithecusa, Mnaria, or Inarime of antiquity, and the mediaeval Iscla, the largest island near Naples, is about 19 M. in circumference, without taking the numerous indentations into account, and has about 20.000 inhabitants, who are principally engaged in the culture of the vine (white wine, light and slightly acid) and other fruit, and to a certain extent in fishing. The manufacture of Mattoni, a kind of tiles, and other articles from a variety of grey clay (creta) found in the island, is of great an- tiquity. Straw-plaiting has recently been considerably developed at Lacco (p. 107). The island was almost entirely neglected by travellers after the severe earthquake of 1883, but visitors are now beginning to find their way back to the mineral springs, which still retain their efficacy. The climate is genial, the soil extremely productive ; the scenery almost everywhere singularly beautiful, though only seen in its full glory in summer. The entire island is of volcanic origin. Monte Epomeo (the ancient Epomeus, or Epo- peus) was an active volcano at a much earlier period than Vesu- vius, and in consequence of its eruptions the island was deserted in B. C. 474 by the greater number of the Greek inhabitants. Eruptions also took place in B.C. 92, and in the reigns of Titus, Antoninus Pius, and Diocletian. According to the ancient poets, the giant Typhceus, transfixed by the thunderbolt of Jupiter, lay buried beneath this mountain, like Enceladus under yEtna, period- ically groaning and causing fearful eruptions of fire. The last eruption recorded took place in 1302. The stream of lava which on that occasion descended to the sea near Ischia is not yet wholly

106 Route 5. ISCHIA. Environs

covered with vegetation. The earthquake of 28th July 1883 dis- placed a large mass from the mountain.

After the fall of Rome Ischia suffered many attacks and devastations at the hands of the different lords of Italy, especially the Saracens in 813 and 847, the Pisans in 1135, and the Emp. Henry VI. and his son Frederick II. In 1282 it revolted with Sicily against the Anjou dynasty, hut was subdued by Charles II. of Naples in 1299, and has since been united with the kingdom and shared its vicissitudes. The celebrated general, the Marchess Pescara, was born in 1489 at the castle of Ischia, which was afterwards gallantly defended by his sister Constance against the forces of Louis XII. of France. As a reward, her family were invested with the governorship of Ischia, which they retained till 1734. In 1525 Pescara's widow, Vittoria Colonna, celebrated alike for her talent and beauty, the poetical friend of Michael Angelo, retired to Ischia to mourn her husband's loss. So too Maria of Aragon in 1548, widow of the Mar- chese del Vasto.

Ischia, the capital of the island, with 7000 inhah., and the seat of a bishop , stretches picturesquely along the shore in the form of a street, 1 M. in length, extending from the Castle on its lofty isolated rock on the S. to the Punta Molina on the N. The castle, erected by Alphonso V. of Aragon (Alphonso I. of Naples) about 1450 , afterwards the residence of Vittoria Colonna [see above), and connected with the land by a stone pier (280 ft. in length) , deserves a visit for the sake of the *View from the roof (20-30 c).

From Ischia a good road skirts the whole N. coast of the is- land, passing Porto d'Ischia and Oasamicciola, to (7 M.) Forio, which is situated on the "W. coast, and thence to the Monte Im- peratore. It is to be conducted round the S. side of the island to Moropano, the present terminus of the new road from Ischia. From the landing-place at Ischia we follow the road to the right in a straight direction, crossing the Lava dell' Arso, or lava-stream of 1302. About 1 M. from Ischia we reach —

Porto d'Ischia (Grand Hotel Fasolini, definite bargain advisable ; Hotel-Pension S. Pietro, on the Punta S. Angelo or S. Pietro, fac- ing the sea; Cafe Angarella ; Cafe Isolano, both well spoken of ; Cafe del Viaggiatori ; Cafe Epomeo ; all also restaurants, with rooms), also called Bagno d'Ischia, from several warm salt springs, which are used at different bathing establishments. In the piazza, close to the harbour, are the large Bathing Establishment, and a royal park and casino (now a bath). The harbour, the circular shape of which denotes that it occupies an old crater, was at one time a lake, but it was connected with the sea in 1853-56 in order to afford refuge to vessels in stormy weather. Excursion to Moropano and ascent of Monte Epomeo see p. 107.

The road ('Via Quercia') ascends to the left by a yellow church with Ionic columns, being accompanied by the telegraph-wires, and commanding a beautiful view of the coast and the sea. About 1l/-2 M. farther we reach —

Casamicciola. — Hotels. "Hotel Pit^cusa, E. 3, B. l'/z, dej. 3, D.4!/2, pens. 10 fr., cheaper for a longer stay, well spoken of; Hotel du

of Naples. ISOHIA. 5. Route. 107

Vesove, R. 3 fr., L. 40 c, A. 1/2, B. l'/j, dej. 21/2,' D. 4, pens. 7-8 fr.; Villa Balsamo, Grande Senti.nella, both higher up, the latter 1 M. from the sea; Piccola Sentinella, new. — Restaurant des Strangers , on the beach, unpretending.

Carriage with one horse, on the quay, l'/2 fr. per hr. — Donkey, 1 fr. per hr. (bargain advisable).

Casamicciola , formerly a little town with 4500 inhab., fre- quented by Italians and foreigners as a summer-resort on ac- count of its charming situation on the N. slopes of the Epomeo and its warm alkaline and saline springs. The terrible earthquake of 28th July 1883, however, in which about 7500 lives were lost, laid it almost entirely in ruins. The church, the bath-houses, and the Monte della Misericordia hospital were laid in shattered heaps, and most of the few houses that remained standing suffered severely. The rebuilding of the town is superintended by a Comitato di Ri- sorgimento; and by order of government the new houses are all built of light timber and plaster work. A wide street is to be constructed along the shore. Several Baths have been reopened ; but many of the townspeople still live in the wooden huts hastily erected after the disaster. A visit to the scene of the calamity takes 1-2 hrs. ; the coachman should be directed to drive to the upper part of the former town, in which the earthquake was most severely felt. The hill com- mands a fine view. A visit may also be paid to the new Campo Siinto, at the foot of the Monte Rotaro, to the E., where the victims of the earthquake of 1883 are buried.

The road continues along the slope a little longer, and then descends to Lacco, a village where the earthquake was much less disastrous. At the beginning of the village, to the left, is the School of Straw-plaiting (tasteful specimens for sale; conip. p. 26); farther on is situated the church of Sta. Restituta , the patroness of the island, whose festival (17th May) is celebrated by the illumi- nation of the neighbouring Monte Vico. Near the former monastery and in the garden attached to it rise hot springs which are used for vapour-baths. A huge rock in the sea, near the village, is named 'il Fungo' from its shape.

The road leads above an ancient lava-stream (snakes abundant) from Lacco to (3 M.) Forlo, the most populous place in the island, with upward of 7000 inhabitants. The Ponza steamers (p. 104) touch here. The Franciscan monastery by the sea merits a visit on account of the beauty of its situation. Fine view of the Monte Epomeo and the Punta Irnperatore, the S.W. extremity of the island.

The Ascent op the Epomeo (horse or donkey 4-5 fr. and fee), occupying 2'/2-3 hrs., may be undertaken from any of the principal towns, but is most conveniently accomplished from Porto d'Ischia or from Casamicciola (one-horse carr. to Fontana from Porto d'Ischia 3, from Casamicciola 4 hrs.; provisions should betaken). The road from Porto d'Ischia crosses the Lava dell'Arso (p. 106 J, the course of which is still distinctly visible above, and leads first

108 Route 6. PORTICI.

through pine-woods and then through luxuriant vineyards and orchards to Barano, beyond which we enjoy a fine survey of the sea and the fertile island. "We then cross a gorge and reach Moro- pano, and then For tana. An easy footpath (guide not necessary) leads hence to the summit in 3/4 hr. — The **Epomeo (2782 ft.) falls away on the N. side almost perpendicularly, hut is less steep on the other three sides. At the top are a Hermitage and the Chapel of S. Nicola, hewn in the volcanic rock, from which the mountain is also called Monte S. Nicola. Wine and bread (bargaining necessary) may be obtained from the hermit, and in any case a trilling donation is expected. Passages and steps cut in the rock ascend to the Belvedere, commanding a strikingly beautiful panorama, embracing the bays of Gaeta and Naples. At our feet lies the island of Ischia itself; to the W. the open sea; to the E. the coast of Italy from Terra- cina , the promontory of Circello, and the Ponza islands to Capo Miseno, Vesuvius, and the Capo Campanella, the extremity of the peninsula of Sorrento ; in the foreground Procida, then the inden- tations of the Bay of Naples, to the right the island of Capri; to- wards the N. the distant snowy peaks of the Abruzzi. — The descent to Casamicciola or to Forio takes 2-2 '/g hrs-

6. From Naples to Pompeii (and Salerno). Herculaneum.

Railway to Pompeii, 15 M., in 50 min.; fares 2 fr. 75, 1 fr. 90, 1 fr. 10 c. (return-tickets 4 fr. 50, 3 fr. 10, 1 fr. 85 c). — High-road, see p. 111.

The railway from Naples to Pompeii , and thence to Salerno and Metaponto (best views to the right), traverses the suburbs and crosses the insignificant Sebeto, a stream which bounds Naples on the E. The large red building on the right is the Granili, used as barracks and (as the name imports) corn -magazines. Beyond these we obtain a retrospect of the Castel S. Elmo. This district is densely peopled ; the first village is the straggling S. Giovanni a Teduccio. To the right the view becomes less cir- cumscribed; and Naples, thePosilipo, beyond which rise the moun- tains of Ischia, the island of Capri opposite , and the peninsula of Sorrento are now visible.

5 M. Portici. — Hotel. Bellevoe, R. 2-5, pens. 8-10 fr. — Trattoria. Asso di CorPA, clean, cuisine well spoken of.

Tramway to Naples see p. 22 (Nos. 2, 3).

Portici, a town with 12,500 inhab., is also the station for Be- sina (see p. 109). It has a small harbour formed byta molo, from the end of which a fine view is obtained of the bay. The high- road from Naples to Salerno traverses the town, and also leads through the court of the palace built by Charles III. in 1738. In the somewhat neglected park of the latter is now a school of agriculture. — Continuation of the Railway Journey, see p. 110.

RESINA. e. Route. 109

Adjoining Portici , immediately beyond the palace , are the houses of Resina, a town with 13,000 inhah., built upon the lava- streams which cover the ancient Herculaneum. About i/i M. beyond the palace, and 200 paces beyond the office of the Vesuvius guides, immediately on this side of a viaduct crossing the Vicolo di Mare, and to the right of the high-road, is the entrance to the excavations. — Distance thither from the railway-station of Portici 2/3 M. (guide unnecessary). On leaving the station we follow the main street to the right, and after 7 min. turn to the left ('Linea Daziaria del Co- mune di Resina'); in 5 min. more, near the palace of Portici (on the left) we reach the above-mentioned high-road, which we follow to the right. Over the entrance is the inscription, ;Scavi di Erco- lano'. Admission 2 fr., for which the visitor is provided with a guide (no fees) ; on Sundays gratis.

Herculaneum, the Heracleia of the Greeks, derived its name from the worship of Hercules peculiar to the place. Tradition attributed its foundation to the hero himself, who during his wanderings in the West visited this district. It was inhabited by Oscans, the aboriginal natives of the country, by Etruscans, and by Samnites , before it became subject to Eome. Owing to its salubrious situation on a height, between two rivers, and being near the sea, it became a favourite site for Roman villas. The spot retained its name even after the total annihilation of the town by the eruption of 79. A number of poor families then took up their abode here, but in 472 their village was again destroyed by an eruption, which altered the configuration of the whole coast. Subsequent eruptions increased the depth of ashes and lava under which the old town was buried to 40-100 ft. , that being the depth of the remains at the present day below the surface of the soil. The discovery of Herculaneum took place in 1719. Prince d'Elbceuf of Lorraine, whilst erecting a casino at Portici, caused a well to be dug to supply it with water. This led to the discovery, at a depth of about 90 ft., of the ancient theatre. The excava- tions were then discontinued, but in 1737 Charles III., when engaged in erecting a palace at Portici, recommenced operations, which were unfor- tunately directed by unskilful hands and led to no satisfactory result; nor was it an easy task to remove the thick layer of ashes, that had hardened into tuffstone, especially as the buildings and streets of Portici and Ke- sina were thereby undermined. In 1750 a long, narrow passage was hewn through the rock, leading to the theatre, which lies 69 ft. below the level of the street, and this is the entrance at the present day. In 1755 the Accademia Ercolanese was instituted for the investigation of the antiquities discovered, and under their auspices was published the 'Antichita d'Erco- lano' in 9 vols. (Napoli, 1757-1792), which caused immense sensation in the learned world. The excavations progressed more favourably under the French kings Joseph Napoleon (1806-8) and Joachim Murat (1808-15). Under the Bourbons operations were suspended till 1828. Many of the most interest- ing objects were excavated and again covered; thus the theatre, part of the forum with its colonnades, a colonnade (erroneously called a basilica), resembling the building ofEumachia at Pompeii (p. 128), various temples, a large villa, in which were found most (and by far the finest) of the bronzes now in the museum at Naples, as well as the 3000 papyrus-rolls (p. 71), private houses, etc. The later excavations of the Italian govern- ment have as yet attained no great result, though in due time, doubtless, a number of interesting discoveries may confidently be expected, as the mantle of lava has successfully repulsed the ancients in their search for objects of value.

From the entrance we are first conducted down a dark flight of more than a hundred steps to the Theatre, of which an accurate

110 Route 6. HERCULANEUM. From Naples

idea is not easily formed by the light of the flickering candle. Owing to the buttresses built to support the rock above, the place rather resembles a profoundly dark subterranean labyrinth. It contained four broad tiers or steps for the chairs of the more dignified spectators, above which were sixteen tiers of seats in six compartments (cunei) : between these, seven flights of steps as- cended to a broad corridor, above which were three more tiers of seats. The number of spectators cannot have exceeded 3000. The orchestra lies 85 ft. below the level of the modern Resina, and is faintly lighted from above through the shaft of the well which was the occasion of the discovery. One inscription records that L. Annius Mammianus Rufus erected the theatre, another that Numisius, son of Publius, was the architect. On each side of the proscenium are pedestals for honorary statues, with inscriptions. A visit to the buildings brought to light by the Scavi Nuovi of 1828 to 1837, and resumed in 1868, is of far higher interest. We are conducted by the custodian down the Vicolo di Mare (p. 109) for 4 min. ; the entrance is by an iron gate to the left. A street, part of a large private house, and several houses used for trading purposes have been excavated here. They lie 40 ft. below the present surface, and the different layers of the superincumbent lava are readily distinguished. The houses with their fittings and decorations resemble those of Pompeii. The building-material is a yellow tufa from Mte. Somma, of very soft consistency, which accounts for the thickness of the walls. The garden of the principal house, that of the Argus, is one of the most interesting objects. It is enclosed by an arcade of twenty columns and six buttresses. To the right of it is a triclinium with a painting (not now visible) of Mercury before ATgus and Io, from which the house derives its name. Towards the sea, the proximity of which at that period is indicated by the rapid descent of the street, are situated magazines, three stories in height, and well preserved.

Near Portici we enjoy a fine view from the railway of the Bay of Naples with the Castello dell' Ovo and Pizzofalcone, commanded by Camaldoli ; in the background the Capo Miseno and the moun- tains of Ischia. Farther on, to the left, "Vesuvius and Resina. The train skirts the coast and traverses the huge lava-stream of 1794, 38 ft. in thickness and 700 yds. in breadth.

7'/-2 M. Torre del Greco. — Hotels. *Eden Hotel, a large new building, well fitted up and comfortably heated, etc., frequented in winter by foreigners, and during the sea-bathing season by Italians, R., L., & A. 5-12, B. li/2, dej. 3'/2, D- 6 (both incl. wine), pens. 9-18 fr. — Pension Fkaxcaise Legeand, new; Pension Belvedeke, Pension Suisse, both in the Corso Vitt. Emanuele, pens. 6-7 fr.; Hotel-Pension dd Vescve, in the Villa Vallelunga, pens. 6-8 fr. — Restaurant, at the tramway-ter- minus (p. 22).

Torre del Greco , a flourishing town with 25,000 inhabitants, stands on the lava-stream of 1631 , which destroyed two-thirds

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to Pompeii. TORRE ANNUNZIATA. 6. Route. Ill

of the older town. The lava-streams of 1737 and 1794 also caused great damage. The earthquake of 1857, and particularly the eruption of 8th Dec. 1861, proved still more destructive. On this last occasion eleven small openings were formed immediately ahove the town, whence vast showers of ashes were precipitated, while the shore in the vicinity was upheaved to the extent of 3 ft., causing the ruin of many houses. Although the entire base of Vesuvius as far as Torre Annunziata is covered with traces of similar catastrophes, yet the inhabitants appear never to be deterred from rebuilding their dwellings, a circumstanoe which has given rise to the jesting saying of the Neapolitans, 'Napoli fa i peccati e la Torre li paga'. In June the great popular festival 'Dei Quattro Altarf is annually celebrated here, in commemoration of the abolition of the feudal dominion in 1700. Every April a large fleet of boats leaves Torre del Greco for the coral-fishery off the coasts of Africa and Sicily, returning in November.

The line intersects Torre del Greco (to the right a small har- bour], and then skirts the sea. To the left the monastery of Ca- maldoli delta Torre is visible, standing on an isolated volcanic peak at the base of Vesuvius, and thus protected against lava-streams.

After passing another stream of lava, the train reaches — 12i/2 M. Torre Annunziata, Citth station, a prosperous town of 17,000 inhab., with a small harbour and an office of the Vesuvius guides (Agenzia delle Guide del Vesuvio e di Pompei, Via Ventidue Febbraio, CaseCosco; see p. 112). A beautiful glimpse is disclosed here of the bay of Castellammare with the town, commanded by Monte S. Angelo, the summit of which is crowned by the chapel of S. Michele; beyond it Vico Equense, in the distance Sorrento.

131/2 M. Torre Annunziata, Central station, the junction for the railways from Caserta to Castellammare (p. 10), and from Naples to Gragnano (p. 143) via, Castellammare.

The Pompeii train now proceeds inland towards the S. E., and on the left the partially overgrown heaps of ashes thrown up by the excavations soon become visible.

15 M. Pompeii, see p. 119.

Continuation of the line to Salerno, see R. 10.

High Road prom Naples to Pompeii.

n„d ^e,SiGH Ef.,AD fr0m ?aples (0 PomPeii ^ also still much frequented, and in cool weather may be recommended as a route as far as Portici

Pntlv ,?ln»;.^ t ra'iway-st,ations at NaPles and Portici are inconveni-

fT ' i„ , la I , * Jf *he }0t Sea90n the du8t is extremely unpleasant.

nn 22 Binq^e T £°m ^ PiaMa deI """^Pio to Eesina, see

pp. J2, 1U9; tramway to Torre del Greco, see p. 23.)

The road, which traverses the busy and bustling E. suburb of Naples, leaves the town near the Castello del Carmine, skirts the jMarinella, and crosses the Sebeto by the Ponte delta Maddalena passing the barracks of the Granili (p. 108) to the right It then

112 Route 7. MOUNT VESUVIUS.

leads alsng the coast, which, however, is so covered with villas and other houses that the route is more like a long street than a country road. Maccaroni hung out to dry is seen on every side. The first village reached is S. Giovanni a Teduccio, which is adjoined on the left by the small town of La Barra, a favourite summer-resort. We next reach Portici (p. 103) and Resina (p. 109), which stretch along the road for a distance of 2 M., the boundary between them being immediately beyond the royal palace, through the court of which the road passes. At the beginning of Resina on the left is the office for the Vesuvius guides (see below). On the right, farther on, is the entrance to the excavations of Herculaneum (p. 109), beyond which the road to Vesuvius diverges to the left (see p. 116). We next pass the chateau of Favorita on the right, with a fine park, now in the possession of the ex-khedive Ismail Pasha (no ad- mission).

As far as Torre del Greco (p. 110) the road runs between houses and garden-walls , but farther on it commands an unim- peded view. Torre Annunziata, see p. 111. The drive from Naples to Pompeii takes 2-3 hrs. (carr. and pair 20 fr.). Pompeii, see p. 119.

7. Mount Vesuvius.

The expedition to Vesuvius, for which bright weather is desirable, takes an entire day. The great majority of travellers avail themselves of the arrangements of Afesfrs. Thomas Cook & Son (p. £0), who convey travel- lers to the top of the cone and back for 25 fr. each; that charge including the Drive from Naples to the foot of the cone (4 his.) and back (2'/2 his.), the ascent and descent by the Wire Rope Railway (3 hrs. including stay at the top), services of a guide, and all gratuities and fees, except for extra conveniences (p. 118). Tickets should be taken the day before. The con- veyances start from the Piazza dei Martiri at 8.S0 a. m. in winter and at 7 a. m. in summer. Travellers or parties who desire to keep by themselves pay the following rates: 1 pers. 45 fr., 2 pers. 29 fr. each, 3 pers. (one on the box-seat) 26 fr., 4 or 5 pers. (the fifth on the box-seat), 25 fr. as above; these may order the carriage to call for them at their hotel at auy convenient hour. No large luggage is allowed; and provisions are also forbidden, on the ground of 'octroi formalities', so that the travellers must rely on the restaurant at the wire-rope railway (p. 117) to satisfy their bodily wants. — Expeditions at night, arranged only between Apiil and November, and for parties of not less than five, cost more, and should be carefully arranged in detail beforehand. When Vesuvius is covered with snow, Cook's excursions are suspended.

It is not advisable to drive to Vesuvius in carriages not belonging to Messrs. Cook, for in that case each person pays 18 fr. for the railway ticket alone, besides 5 fr. (exacted also from walkers) for the use of the proprietary carriage-road leading to the lower station (p. 117).

A much less expensive way of making the ascend is to avoid the railway and its neighbourhood altogether, and to ascend on foot or on horseback, either from Resina on the W. side, or from Torre Annunziata or Pompeii on the S. side. There are guide offices at the two first-named places, wheie the tariff for guides and horses maybe seen (comp. pp. 109, 111). The shameless attacks on the traveller's pu;se, once common, have been much mitigated owing to the competition of Messrs. Cook. The charges at present are: guide 5 fr., horse or mule 5 fr., horse boy 2 fr., and fee. It is quite unnecessary to provide a horse for the guide. Ex-

MOUNT VESUVIUS. 7. Route. 113

press stipulations should be made beforehand that the guide shall carry the provisions and shall conduct the traveller to all the points of interest. The charges are less from Pompeii, where the innkeepers provide guides and horses (e. g. guide and horse from the Albergo del Sole, 5 fr.). — The ascent without a guide presents no difficulties to practised pedestrians, though the scaling of the final cone is fatiguing (coinp. p. 113). But travellers should on, no account approach the crater alone.

A good popular account of the volcano is given in Prof. J. Logan Lobley's 'Mt. Vesuvius' (London; 1889).

Mount Vesuvius , sometimes called Vesevus by ancient poets (e. g. by Lucretius and Virgil), rises in isolated majesty from the Campanian plain, near the sea. The height varies, according to the different effects of the eruptions , from 3900 to 4300 ft. ; in 1845 the height was 3900 ft., and in 1868 it had increased to 4255 ft. ; it -was somewhat diminished by the eruption of 1872, but is now steadily increasing. The N.E. side of the mountain is named Monte Somma, of which the highest peak is the Punta del Nasone (3730 ft.). A deep sickle-shaped valley, the Atrio del Ca- vallo, separates Somma from Vesuvius proper, which consists of a cone of ashes with the crater in the centre, the 'Forge of Vulcan'. The summit is also liable to constant change after eruptions ; at present there are two openings, the Cratere Centrale and the Cratere Nuovo. The mountain rises from the sea at an angle of 10°, while the cone itself has a gradient of 30-35°. Monte Somma descends almost perpendicularly to the Atrio del Oavallo, but slopes very gradually down to the plain (3°).

Vesuvius in Ancient Times. Vesuvius forms the S.E. ex- tremity, and has for the last three centuries been the only active crater, of a highly volcanic district, which includes Ischia, Procida, the Solfatara , and the Monte Nuovo. The case was reversed in ancient times , as we are informed by the geographer Strabo (Bk. v., chap. 4), who lived in the time of Augustus: 'Mount Vesuvius is covered with beautiful meadows, with the exception of the summit. The latter is indeed for the most part level, but quite sterile ; for it has an appearance like ashes , and shows rugged rocks of sooty consistency and colour, as if they had been consumed by fire. One might conclude from this that the mountain had once burned, and possessed fiery abysses, and had become extinguished when the material was spent. And just from this cause its fertility may arise , as in the case of Catania the eruption of ashes from Mtna, renders it so productive of wine'. About fifty years later, in the time of Nero, A. D. 63, the volcanic nature of the mountain manifested itself by a fearful earthquake , which destroyed a great part of the prosperous en- virons, and seriously damaged Herculaneum and Pompeii. This was repeated at Naples in 64 , and again at intervals till the reign of Titus, when, on 24th Aug. 79, the first (recorded) eruption took place with appalling fury , and overhelmed Pom- peii, Herculaneum, Stabise, and other villages of this smiling

Baedeker. Italy III. 11th Edition. 8

114 Route 7. MOUNT VESUVIUS. Eruptions.

district. On that occasion, it would appear, the peak now called Vesuvius was formed. Previously it had been a rounded crater ; the S. side, where Vesuvius now rises, having been the lowest. The naturalist Pliny, then in command of a section of the fleet stationed at Misenum, also perished on this occasion. He had ventured as far as Stabiae, both as an observer and for the purpose of rendering aid to the distressed, when he was suffocated by ashes and exhalations. His nephew, the younger Pliny, in two letters (Bp. vi. 16, 20) to his friend the historian Tacitus, gives a graphic description of this fearful phenomenon. He mentions the premonitory earthquakes, day turned into night, the extraordinary agitation of the sea, the dense clouds overhanging land and sea, and riven by incessant flashes of lightning, the emission of fire and ashes, the descent of streams of lava, and the universal terror of men, who believed the end of the world had arrived. A similar description is given of an eruption in the reign of Alex. Severus, A.D. 222, by Dion Cassius (lxvi. 23), who describes how the clouds which hovered over the mountain assumed the form of awful co- lossal figures. The eruptions of Vesuvius have been repeated at intervals with varying violence, down to the present day. The next took place in 203, under Septimius Severus, and another in 472, sending its showers of ashes as far as Constantinople.

Vesuvius in Modern Times. Down to the year 1500 nine eruptions are recorded , and from that date to the present time fifty. The mountain has been known to be quiescent for centuries in succession, while at other periods its activity has been al- most uninterrupted, e. g. from 1717 to 1737. From 1500 to 1631 Vesuvius was quiescent, while in 1538 the Monte Nuovo was upheaved near Pozzuoli, and jEtna was labouring without intermission. During that period Vesuvius was entirely covered with wood and bushes, like the deer park of Astroni at the present day, and cattle grazed peacefully within the crater. After this lull, on 16th Dec, 1631, came a most terrific eruption, the first of which we possess detailed accounts. A huge cloud of smoke and ashes rising in a conical form , cast a profound gloom over Naples in the middle of the day, and extended with incredible rapidity over the southern portion of Italy , as far as Tarentum. Heavy stones were thrown to a distance of 15 M. (one which fell at the village of Somma being 25 tons in weight) , while the earth was convulsed by violent earth- quakes , and seven streams of lava poured from the summit, overwhelming Bosco, Torre Annunziata, Torre del Greco, Re- sina, and Portici. No fewer than 3000 persons perished on that occasion. An eruption in 1707 was of a very alarming nature, lasting from May to August, and covering Naples with dense show- ers of ashes, to the terror of the citizens. The eruptions of 1737, 1760, and 1767 emitted considerable quantities of lava and scoriae

Eruptions. MOUNT VESUVIUS. 7. Route. 115

which in 1767 descended on Portici , and even reached Naples. One of the most stupendous of these phenomena took place in Aug. 1779, when a vast number of red-hot stones were hurled to a height of 2000 ft., spreading terror among the inhabitants far and wide. The lava eruption of 1794 was even more fatal in its effects, the streams precipitating themselves into the sea by Torre del Greco ; upwards of 400 lives were lost, and the ashes were car- ried as far as Chieti andTaranto. Eruptions during the present cen- tury took place in 1804, 1805, 1822, Feb. 1850, and May 1855 ; in June 1858 the upper crater sank about 195 ft. below its former elevation ; and on 8th Dec. 1861 an outbreak devastated Torre del Greco. These outbreaks were remarkable for their violence, and interesting from the fact that some of them were witnessed by Leo- pold von Buch (1805), Humboldt (1822), and other men of science.

The most recent period of great activity began after a decade of comparative quiescence in January 1871 , with the emission of some smaller streams of lava, and culminated in the great eruption of 24th-30th April 1872. During these days the lava burst forth on every side — on the N.E. , S.W., and more particularly at the Atrio del Cavallo (p. 113), from which a huge stream issued with such suddenness on 26th April as to overtake and destroy 20 per- sons out of a crowd of spectators who were watching the spectacle, while others were injured by the stones thrown from the summit. The torrent descended to Massa and S. Sebastiano, which it partly destroyed, and ran to a distance of 3 M. in 12 hours. At the same time, amidst terrific thundering, the crater poured forth huge vol- umes of smoke mingled with red-hot stones and lava to a height of 4000 ft., whilst clouds of ashes, rising to double that height, were carried by the wind as far as Cosenza, a distance of MOM. The lava emitted during this eruption covers an area of 2 sq. M., and aver- ages 13 ft. in depth. The damage was estimated at upwards of 3 mil- lion francs.

Volcanic Phenomena. The cause of these phenomena is still to some extent a matter of mere conjecture. It is highly probable that they are intimately connected with the water of the sea, near which all the principal volcanoes are situated. There is reason to believe that the enormous clouds of steam generated during erup- tions are due to some temporary communication of the water with the burning liquids of the interior of the earth, and that the pre- monitory earthquakes are occasioned by the vapours and gases as they expand and endeavour to find an outlet. The red-hot fluids expelled from the volcano by means of these vapours are called Lava. When, however, they are broken by the vapours into fragments, the larger of these are known as Lapilli (Rapilli) or Scoria, whilst the minute portions form Volcanic Sand ox Ashes. If the sides of the cone are strong enough to resist the pressure of the molten lava, the latter flows out from the top of the crater ; but if not, it flows

8*

116 Route 7. MOUNT VESUVIUS. Ascent

out at the sides, generally in several streams. When freed from the pressure of the lava, the vapours rise to a height of 10,000 ft., resembling a pine in form , as Pliny has aptly described it, car- rying dense masses of rapilli and ashes along with them ; they are then condensed in the air, and in descending give rise to those formidable streams of mud (Lave d' Aequo) which proved so destructive to Herculaneum. Vesuvius has of late been active in the manner described, although to a very limited extent, ejecting vapours and stones with a roar resembling that of distant artillery; but the effects of this action have been confined to the formation of the cone in the crater. More serious eruptions are accompanied by loud subterranean noises, earthquakes, and flashes of lightning and peals of thunder, owing to the electricity produced by the unwonted pressure of the air. The temperature of the lava as it descends occasionally exceeds 2000° Fahr. The volume of the streams, as well as their velocity, depends on a variety of external circumstances. The surface of the lava ultimately becomes disinte- grated into black sand. The smoke which ascends from the crater is more or less dark in colour, according to the quantity of ashes mingled with it. The appearance of fire at night is not flame, but the reflection of the molten lava in the interior of the crater on the rising clouds of vapour and ashes.

Of the Minerals ejected by the volcano , most of which are found in the older lava of Mte. Somma, as well as in that ejected during later eruptions, about 50 species are at present known. A small box of spe- cimens may be purchased for Va fr. The yellow masses, usually taken lor sulphur, really consist of lava coloured by chloride of iron.

The ** Ascent of Vesuvius is unquestionably an excursion of extreme interest, though not unattended with fatigue, and it should not be undertaken in rainy or stormy weather. "When the mountain is covered with snow in winter the difficulty of the ascent is of course greater. The ascent is most interesting when the mountain 'works', or ejects scori* and ashes, a con- dition indicated by smoke during the day and a reflection of fire at night, which may be observed from Naples. Even if its state is that of perfect repose, which is not often the case, the fatigue of the ascent is repaid by the imposing appearance of the crater and the magnificent *Panorama commanded by the summit, extending as far as the Ponza Islands and Mte. Circello. An ascent at night is, of course, made only when the mountain 'works'.

From Resina. The road to Vesuvius diverges to the left from the high-road immediately beyond the entrance to the excavations of Herculaneum (cornp. p. 109). The luxuriant vineyards here, which are interspersed with gardens and cottages, presenting a picture of teeming fertility , yield the famous 'Lacrimae Christi' wine, which is generally strong and heavy , and never of a very re- fined quality. The wine is offered for sale at marly every cottage, but had better not be partaken of before the ascent (usual price

of Vesuvius. MOUNT VESUVIUS. 7. Route. 117

1 fr. per bottle, bargain beforehand; change for coins larger than a franc is almost invariably withheld). Higher up , beyond the garden-walls, the beautiful view is gradually disclosed. In about 3/4 hr. we reach the huge dark lava-stream of 1872 , which we can trace down to S. Sebastiano and Massa di Somma (p. 115), and which the windings of the road cross several times.

In 3/4 hr. more we reach the so-called Hermitage and the Me- teorological Observatory , situated 2220 ft. above the level of the sea and 1965 ft. above Eesina, on the shoulder of the hill which divides the lava-streams descending from the crater into two branches. The Observatory, which the railway-passengers have no time to visit, contains , in addition to the usual instruments , a 'seismograph', or apparatus for recording the phenomena of earth- quakes. The first director of the observatory was the famous Mel- loni (d. 1854). His successor Palmieri published an interesting account of the eruption of 1872. A slab has been placed at the entrance of the building in memory of the travellers who perished in the Atrio del Cavallo in 1872 (p. 115; on which occasion Sign. Palmieri remained at his post in the Observatory). Close by is a clean inn.

The road constructed by government ends about 1/4 M. beyond the observatory. The continuation (about l3/4 M.) was built in 1879-80 by the railway - company, and since 1889 has, like the wire-rope railway itself, been in the possession of Messrs. Thomas Cook $ Son. Cook's tourists show their tickets at the office here, while travellers who have not come from Naples in carriages be- longing to Messrs. Cook, must here provide themselves with tickets (p. 112) or quit the road (see below). The road at first leads towards the S.B., and then ascends in long windings to the Stazione Infe- riore (about 2600 ft.), where there is a *Restaurant (dej. 4, D. 6 fr., both incl. wine). Checks for the railway are issued on the arrival of the carriages (see also below), but passengers are not bound to proceed by the first train that starts.

The Wire Rope Railway (Ferrovia Funieolare) is 900 yds. long, and the upper end is 1300 ft. higher than the lower. The gradient varies from 43:100 to 63:100. The ascent or descent in the train takes 12 minutes. At the upper station guides with numbers on their caps are in waiting (others should be dismissed), by whom the travellers are conducted by a tolerable footpath over ashes and slag to the (10-15 min.) summit of the crater, which commands a fine view. Under ordinary circumstances there is no danger unless one approaches the shelving brink incautiously or exposes oneself to the fumes of sulphur and showers of stones. A total stay of 3 hrs. on the mountain is allowed; those who remain longer do so at the risk of finding no disengaged seat in the train. The coachmen below are also not bound to wait longer.

Ladies and le"s vigorrus travellers liad better engage a 'portantina'

118 Route 7. MOUNT VESUVIUS.

or porte-chaise (10 fr. to the top and back) to carry them from the upper station; or avail themselves of an 'aiuto' or aid of a strap (2 fr.). Ar- rangements for either should be made at the lower station with Cook's inspector, to whom the payment is made. Those who wish to visit not only the crater but also the fresh lava, to which they must descend for about 100 yds. on the side next the Atrio del Cavallo, should also make a bargain with the inspector at the lower station, as the demands of the guides at the upper station are very extortionate. A fee of 1 fr. is sufficient, whether the guide is hired by a single person or by a party. The guides are in the habit of making impressions on the hot lava with copper coins (charge, 1 fr.), and inviting the traveller to make similar experiments. The only risk incurred in doing so is that of damaging the soles of one's boots.

The thanks of tourists are certainly due to Messrs. Cook for the energy with which, in face of serious difficulties, they maintain order and discipline among the guides and others , who have been accustomed for generations to practise extortion upon travellers. Should, however, any cause of complaint arise, the coupon should be handed to the in- spector and not to the guide.

Travellers ascending from Kesina on foot or on horseback, leave the road at the above-mentioned ticket-office , and follow a rough path, which brings them in 3ji hr. to the foot of the cone, near the lower railway-station. They are then conducted across the road by the railway officials, and begin the ascent on the S. side of the station. The ascent of the precipitous cone, consisting of slag and loose ashes, takes 1 '/4- 1 i/o hr. and is extremely fa- tiguing, but possesses considerable attraction for the robust moun- tain-climber. The lava by the sides of the path generally affords a tolerably firm foothold. An 'aiuto', or aid of a strap, may be obtained for 3 fr. The descent takes scarcely 10 minutes.

From the S.W. Side. The ascent of Vesuvius on the S.W. side is best made from Boscotrecase, l1/* M. from Torre Annunziata (p. Ill) and3/,jhr's. drive from Pompeii (see below; one-horse carr. 172-2 fr.). There is a branch of the guide-office of Torre Annun- ziata at Boscotrecase. The route ascends through vineyards and across lava, reaching the foot of the cone in 2-272 hrs. and avoid- ing the railway altogether. Thence to the top in ly.jhr., see above.

The 'Monte Somma (3730 ft.) also affords a fine view, and is inter- esting to geologists and botanists. The ascent may be made from Massa, Somma, or from Ottaiano ("Locanda in the Piazza Mercato; also guides). The ascent is most advantageously made from Somma (no inn ; con- veyance from Marigliano, see p. 174, in connection with the 1st, 3rd, 4th, and 5th trains from and to Naples, in 40 min.; fares from Naples to Somma 2 fr. 10, 1 fr. 40, 85 c, return-tickets 3 fr. 30, 2 fr. 25, 1 fr. 40 c). We first proceed through vineyards and a broad sunken road to the pilgrimage- church of S. Maria del Castello (1425 ft.), situated in a commanding po- sition on the verge of the Bagno del Purgalorio, a gorge diverging to the S. At the steps leading up to the church we descend to the right in the gorge, and then ascend steadily through woods of chestnut and beech to (l'/2 hr.) the Grace (3690 ft.), a point frequently visited by the sur- rounding inhabitants. The summit (3730 ft.) is attained in a few minutes more, and affords an imposing *View of Vesuvius and the Atrio del Ca- vallo to the S., and of the Abruzzi to the N. and E. The descent may be made to the W., by rounding the roeky pinnacles first on the N., then on the S., and crossing the lava of 1872 to the Observatory (p. 117),

110

8. Pompeii.

Railway to Pompeii (Stazione di Pompei), see R. 6. — The distance to Pompeii from Torre Annunziata, Stazione Centrale, is only li/4M., so that the traveller may find it convenient to take one of the Castellam- mare trains to that station; the high-road thence to Pompeii is apt to be very dusty. As a rule carriages are to be found only at the Stazione Citta at Torre Annunziata. — Comp. p. Ill and the map.

High Road to Pompeii, very dusty in summer, like all the roads near Naples. Carriage with one horse 10 , with two horses 20 fr. and gratuity; drive of 2-3 hrs. See p. 111.

The Entkance to the Ruins is about 200 paces from the Pompeii Station, near the Hotel Diomede and Hotel Suisse. No attention should be paid to guides 'offering themselves outside. Admission on Sundays is gratis; but on that day no guides are provided and those houses in which collections are kept are closed. On other days tickets cost 2 fr. (the coupon must be retained, comp. p. 142). Visitors are provided with a guide , who is bound to accompany them and pilot them through the ruins during any number of hours between sunrise and sunset. These guides are about 60 in number, and each is provided with a badge (number- ed according to the seniority of service, No. 1 being the oldest). One of those who speak French or a little English will be assigned to the traveller on application. Implicit confidence cannot be placed in the guides for any- thing beyond mere technical explanations. They are forbidden to accept any gratuity. Complaints made to the inspector (soprastante), or better still to the director Ruggiero at Naples, are sure to receive attention.

Duration of Stat. Visitors are admitted from 7 a.m. till 6 p.m. The time which the traveller devotes to the ruins must depend on his own inclination. Crowds of sight-seers, usually arriving from Naples by the morning-express, allow themselves to be hurried through by the guides in 2 hours. A superficial inspection may be accomplished in 4-5 hrs. L'inch should be brought, for if the ruins be quitted and re-entered, the entrance-money is exacted a second time. Still, too long a visit is apt to exhaust both mind and body, especially in hot weather. The traveller should if possible contrive to visit Pompeii twice, once with and once without a guide.

Permission to draw, take measurements, etc., is obtained at the Segre- teria of the Museum at Naples (comp. p. 56) , where the applicant must show his passport. Artists or students who desire to make prolonged studies may, on application at the office and production of their passports, obtain a free ticket of admission. Permission to visit the ruins by moon- light is accorded only to persons specially introduced to the director.

Hotels. At the entrance to Pompeii, near the railway -station, Hotel Diomede, R. & L. 2, B. 1, dej. 2'/2, D. 3'/2 (both incl. wine), pens. 5 fr. ; Hotel Suisse, R., L., & A. 2, B. 1, dej. 2-2>/2, D. 3 (both incl. wine), pens. 5 fr. (for a week 4'/2 fr. per day), well spoken of. — A little farther on, near the Amphitheatre, Hotel du Soleil, long frequented by scholars and artists, R. l'/2 fr., B. 80 c, dej. 2-21/2, D. 3 (both incl. wine), pens. 5 fr. (for a week 41/2 fr. per day) ; no charge for use of omnibus.

Pompeii was once a prosperous provincial town, with a popu- lation of 20-30,000 souls. The original Oscan inhabitants had at the close of the republic become completely Romanised, and after the earthquake of A.D. 63 the town was re-erected in the new Roman style composed of Greek and Italian elements. Pompeii, therefore, represents one definite epoch of antiquity only, but it is the most important andalmostthe only source of our acquaintance with ancient domestic life. The investigation of the various phases of this life, even in its minuter details, forms a pursuit of inexhaustible interest.

Before visiting Pompeii the traveller is strongly advised to ao-

1 20 Route 8. POMPEII. History.

quire some previous acquaintance -with the place from boots and plans, f The more familiar the objects are to him, the greater will be his enjoyment. The enthusiasm called forth by the discovery of Pompeii and the fascination attaching to the name are calculated to raise the expectations of non - archaeologists to too high a pitch. The remains are simply the bare ruins of a town destroyed by fire, which have been extricated from the rubbish accumulated during seventeen centuries; in order to summon up from these mutilated walls an accurate picture of ancient life, frequent and prolonged visits and patient observation are indispensable. The evening is the most enjoyable time for the visit, when the lights and shadows on the surrounding mountains and the illumination of the ruins by the de- clining sun invest the place with magic fascination.

Pompeii is mentioned in history for the first time in B.C. 310; but its monuments, such as the wall of the town and the so-called Greek Temple, clearly prove it to he of much greater antiquity. Founded by the Oscans, it soon became imbued with the elements of Greek civilisation, like the other towns of this extensive tribe. Being situated near the sea on an ancient volcanic eminence, it carried on extensive commerce with the inland Campanian towns by means of the navigable river Sarnus, and enjoyed an uninterrupted, though not brilliant share of prosperity. (The sea and river were separated from the town by subsequent convulsions of nature.) After the Samnite wars, in which Pompeii had also participated, the town became subject to Rome. It united with the other Italians in the Social War. The rebels were defeated in the vicinity of Pompeii by Sulla, who attacked the town itself, but unsuccessfully. After the termi- nation of the war, however, B.C. 80, a colony of Roman soldiers was sent thither, and the inhabitants were compelled to cede to it one-third of their arable land. In course of time Pompeii became thoroughly Romanised, and was a favourite retreat of Romans of the wealthier classes, who (e.<?. Cicero) purchased estates in the vicinity. It was also favoured by the em- perors. Tacitus records a serious conflict which took place in the amphi- theatre, A. D. 59, between the Pompeians and the neighbouring Nucerines, in 'consequence of which the former were prohibited from performing theatrical pieces for a period of ten years. A few years later, A.D. 63, a fearful earthquake occurred, evidencing the re-awakened activity of Ve- suvius, which had been quiescent for centuries. A great part of Pompeii, its temples, colonnades, theatres, and private dwellings were destroyed on that occasion. This disaster afforded the inhabitants an opportunity of carrying out still more thoroughly the alterations which they had already begun on their town , in a style more conformable to the improved architecture of imperial Rome , and it accounts for the comparatively modern and often unfinished character of the buildings. The new town had not long been completed , although it had been restored in a re- markably short period with the aid afforded by private liberality, when it was overtaken by the final catastrophe of 24th Aug. 79. The first premonitory symptom was a dense shower of ashes, a stratum of which covered ;the town to a depth of about 3 ft. , allowing the inhabitants time to escape. Many of them, however, returned, some doubtless to rescue their valuables, others paralysed with fear and uncertain what course to pursue. The whole number of those who perished is estimated at 2000. The ashes were followed by a shower of red hot rapilli, or fragments of pumice-stone of all sizes, which covered the town to a depth of 7-8 ft. and was succeeded by fresh showers of ashes and again by rapilli. The present superincumbent mass is about 20 ft. in thickness. Part of this

+ Br. Furchheim's (p. 25) Bibliografin ili Pompei' (2nd ed. ; 1S92) contains a full list of works published on Pompeii and Herculaneum.

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Typography. POMPEII. 8. Route. 121

was formed by subsequent eruptions, but the town had already been completely buried by the original catastrophe, and was entirely lost to view. Extensive excavations, however, had been made in ancient times. Immediately after the calamity the survivors doubtless recovered as many valuables from their buried homes as they could ; and in sub- sequent centuries the ruins were repeatedly ransacked for the marbles and precious stones used in the embellishment of the temples and other buildings. We therefore now find the town in the condition in which it was consigned to oblivion some fifteen centuries ago as no longer containing anything of value. During the middle ages Pom- peii was entirely unknown. In 1592 the architect Fontana constructed a subterranean water-conduit in order to supply Torre Annunziata from the Sarno, actually intersecting the ruins, and to this day in use ; yet no farther investigations were then attempted. In 1748 the discovery of some statues and bronze utensils by a peasant attracted the attention of Charles III., who caused excavations to be made. The amphitheatre, the- atre, and other parts were then disinterred. The enthusiasm caused by the discovery has been the frequent theme of poetical and other compositions by Bulwer Lytton, Schiller, and other celebrated authors: What wonder this? — we ask the lymphid well, 0 Earth 1 of thee — and from thy solemn womb What yield'st thou? — Is there life in the abyss — Doth a new race beneath the lava dwell ? Returns the Past, awakening from the tomb ?

The earth, with faithful watch, has hoarded all 1 Under the Bourbons the excavations were continued in a very unsatis- factory manner. Statues and valuables alone were extricated, whilst the ruins were either suffered to fall to decay or covered up again. To the reign of Murat, however, we are indebted for the excavation of the Forum, the town-walls, the Street of Tombs, and many private houses. The political changes of 1860 have likewise exercised a beneficial effect. Under the able superintendence of Sig. Fiorelli, instead of the former predatory operations, a regular plan has been adopted, according to which the ruins are systema- tically explored and carefully preserved, and highly satisfactory results thus obtained. The movable objects found, as well as the more important frescoes, have been removed to the Museum at Naples, — a very desirable course, as is obvious from the injury caused by exposure to those left behind. At Pompeii itself a museum and library have been instituted, a dwelling-house erected for students supported by government, and a railway constructed for the 'removal of the debris. The workmen employed in the excavations average eighty in number, but several hundred are at times engaged. If the works continue to progress at the same rate as at present, the complete excavation of the town, according to Fiorelli's calculations, will occupy 60 years more, and will cost about 5 million francs. A sum of 30-40,000 fr. is realised yearly from the admission-fees of visitors.

The town is built in the form of an irregular ellipse, extend- ing from E. to W. The circumference of its walls amounts to 2843 yds. In consequence of the prolonged peace, however, the walls had entirely lost their importance, and towards the sea they had been demolished. There are eight gates. The excavated portion embraces not quite one-half of the town, but probably the most important part, including the Forum with the contiguous temples and public buildings, two theatres with large colonnades, the amphi- theatre, and a considerable number of private dwellings of more or less ornate character. Officially the town is divided into nine 'Regions' (Regiones ; indicated by Roman numerals) by the four principal streets connecting the gates : the Cardo (central axis) and

122 Route 8. POMPEII. Topography.

another parallel street not yet excavated, running from N. to S., and the Decumanus Major and Decumanus Minor (major and minor transverse line), running from E. to W. Each region is subdivided into Insulae, or blocks of houses bounded by four streets , each provided with an Arabic numeral. The number of the region and that of the insula is written up at every corner. Each house is also numbered. Thus 'Reg. VI, Ins. 8, No. 5' means the house No. 5 in £he eighth insula of the sixth region. The Italian names given formerly to the streets, though somewhat arbitrary, are more easily remembered than these numerals, and they have thus been retained in the following description and on our map. The same remark ap- plies to the equally arbitrary older names of the houses; the newer names, generally taken from signet-rings or seals found in the interiors, are affixed in Latin to the doors.

The streets, bordered by pavement, are straight and narrow, sel- dom above 24 ft. in breadth, the narrower lanes 14 ft. only. They are admirably paved with large polygonal blocks of lava. At in- tervals, especially at the corners, are placed high stepping-stones, leading from one side of the pavement to the other, intended for the convenience of foot-passengers in rainy weather. The waggons have left deep ruts in the causeways, which do not exceed 4>/2 ft. in width. At the corners of the streets are public fountains, decorated with the head of a god, a mask, or similar ornament.

In the streets are frequently seen notices painted in red let- ters, referring generally to the election of the municipal authori- ties, and recommending some particular individual as aedile or duumvir. Trade-signs, like those of the present day, are very rare. On the other hand an occasional 'phallus' is seen, for the purpose of averting the evil eye ; and one or two large snakes, the emblems of the Lares, the gods of the hearth and of cross- ways, are very common. Stuccoed walls are often covered with roughly scratched drawings resembling those with which our 'Street Arabs' still delight to decorate blank surfaces.

The houses are slightly built of concrete (small stones con- solidated with cement), brick, or brick- shaped stones, and some- times, particularly the facades, door-posts, or corner pillars, of blocks of stone. The hasty and patched character of the construction is everywhere discernible, owing to the interpolation of old walls in new buildings. The numerous well-preserved staircases prove that the houses must uniformly have possessed a second and perhaps also a third story. These upper portions, consisting chiefly of wood, have, with a single exception (p. 133), been destroyed by the red- hot scoriae of the eruption.

The busiest streets may be identified by means of the shops (taberna:), which were let to merchants and shopkeepers, in the same way as the ground-floors of the palazzi in Naples are occupied by shops at the present day. These shops were generally in no way

Architecture. POMPEII. 8. Route. 123

connected with the hack part of the house, and presented their whole frontage to the street, from which they could be separated by large wooden doors. Many of the shop-tables, covered with marble, and not unfrequently fitted up with large earthen vessels for the sale of wine , oil , etc. , are still preserved. At the back of the shop or above it there was occasionally a second room, probably oc- cupied by the shopkeeper, or, in the case of eating-houses, used to accommodate the customers. The great number of these shops affords proof of the importance of the retail traffic at Pompeii. Where there are no shops, the streets are very monotonous. The absence of glass forms one of the chief differences between an ancient and a modern dwelling. The ancients therefore concentrated their domestic life in the interior of their houses, which presented to the street a blank wall with as few openings as possible, and these covered with an iron grating. A distinct idea of this mode of building, without parallel except in Oriental countries, is best obtained in the more recently excavated and better preserved streets between the Forum and the Stabian Street, and to the E. of the latter.

The dwelling-houses of Pompeii vary greatly in size, and have obviously been very differently fitted up , in accordance with the nature of the situation, or the means and taste of their owners. Most of thePompeian houses of the wealthy middle class are entered from the street by a narrow passage (ostium) leading to the court (atri- um), which is surrounded by a covered passage, with the implu- vium, or reservoir for rain-water, in the centre. The roof sloped inwards and had an opening in the centre (compluvium) which afforded light and air to the court and the adjoining rooms. On each side, and sometimes in front, were cubicula or bed-rooms. The two open spaces at the ends of the sides were called alne or wings (in Rome it was the custom, among the wealthier citizens to preserve the statues of their ancestors). Beyond the atrium is a large apartment opening into it , called the tablinum. This front por- tion of the house was devoted to its intercourse with the external world ; and it was here that the patron received his clients and transacted business. The rest of the house was destined solely for the use of the family. Its centre also consisted of an open court or garden, enclosed by columns, and thence termed the peristylium. Sometimes, however, there is a flower-garden (xystus), surrounded by columns, beyond the peristyle. Around the peristyle are situated the sleeping and eating-rooms, slaves' rooms, kitchen, cellar, etc. The upper floor was destined principally for the slaves. Most of the apartments are very small , but the family worked and spent most of their time in the light and airy courts.

The reconstruction of a complete house in its original form would he most interesting and instructive, but has not yet heen carried out.

The wall-decorations in Pompeii lend it a peculiar charm. Marble is very rarely met with in the domestic architecture and not often

124 Route 8. POMPEII. Mureum.

in the public architecture of Pompeii, the columns being invariably constructed of tuffstone or bricks, cemented by mortar. The brick walls and columns were then covered with painted stucco. The lower halves of the columns are generally red or yellow, the capitals taste- fully painted ; the walls, too, where undecorated, are painted with bright, and almost glaring colours, chiefly red and yellow, harmonising well with the brilliancy of a southern sun. The centre of the walls is generally occupied by a painting unconnected with the others. The best of these were removed to the museum at Naples, to pro- tect them from exposure to the elements; many, however, of those left merit inspection. The scenes present a uniformly soft, erotic character, corresponding to the peaceful and pleasure-seeking taste of the age (comp. Introd., p. xlf).

We now proceed to describe the different streets and build- ings , beginning with the Porta Marina , by which we enter the town on arriving from the ticket-office (p. 119). We shall then proceed to the Forum and first explore thence the streets in the S. of the city and the buildings in the neighbourhood of the Theatre. We shall then visit the Stabian Thermae (whence a digres- sion may be made to the Amphitheatre), and proceed by the Strada Stabiana and Strada di Nola to the excavations farthest to the east. Next we shall proceed to the W. by the streets of Fortuna and the Thermae, traverse the Street of Mercury and the Vicolo di Mercurio to the Herculaneum Gate, and inspect the Street of Tombs.

The above is very much the route usually adopted by the guides. Those who desire to form a distinct idea of the topography and arrange- ments of the town are recommended either to adopt the following plan, or to frame one for themselves and name to the guide in order the places they desire to see. The names of the chief sights are printed in heavier types. These who are pressed for time had better omit the Amphitheatre. Travellers who intend to dine or put up at the Hotel du Soleil should intimate this to the guide at once, and arrange to visit the Amphi- theatre last.

The street passing through the Porta Marina could scarcely have been used by vehicles, as it ascends at an alrupt gradient to one of the highest points in the city. The gate has a path for foot-pas- sengers on the left. Within is a vaulted passage between ancient magazines. On the right in this passage is the entrance to the —

*Museum, which contains many interesting objects, though none of artistic value, arranged in three rooms.

Among these are casts and models of doors, windows, shop-shutters, and other objects in wood.

In glass-cases are preserved several casts of human corpses, and one of the body of a dog. Although the soft parts of the bodies had decayed in course of time, their forms frequently remained imprinted on the ashes, which afterwards hardened. In 1863 Fiorelli made the ingenious ex- periment of carefully removing the bones of a body thus imbedded, and filling the cavity with plaster, and he has succeeded in preserving the figures and attitudes of the deceased after their death-struggle On the point of flight, many of them had divested themselves of most of their clothing. Among the figures are a young girl with a ring on her

Temple of Apollo. POMPEII. 8. Route. 125

finger, two women, one tall and elderly, and the other younger ; a man lying on his face; and a man lying on his left side with remarkably well- preserved features.

Immediately to the right in the second room is a handsome Table. There are also amphorae, vases, rain-spouts, etc., in terracotta; vessels in bronze; carbonised articles of food like those at Naples (p. 71); skulls, and skeletons of men and animals.

The Via Marina, now named Decumanus Minor, ascends hence in a straight direction to the Forum, with uninteresting shops on the left.

On the right at the end of the Via Marina is a side-entrance to the Basilica (Reg. VIII, Ins. 1), the facade of which fronts towards the Forum. This was used as a market and also accommodated a law- court. A passage round the interior consists of twenty -eight brick columns with capitals of tufa ; the entire space in the centre was roofed in, and was lighted by openings in the upper part of the side- walls. On the walls are half-columns, all covered with stucco, slighter and lower than the "brick columns, and above them was another system of columns and half-columns, placed tolerably far apart. The frag- ments of tufa-columns by the walls belonged to this upper row. At the end of the building was the elevated tribune, or seat of the presiding magistrate, which was probably approached by mov- able steps. In front of it is a pedestal for a statue ; below are vaults (perhaps a prison), reached by two staircases, and connected with the upper hall by means of two openings. In the year 79 the building seems to have been in a state of ruin occasioned by the earthquake of the year 63.

Also on the W. side of the Forum , to the left of the Via Marina, is situated the *Temple of Apollo (Keg. VII, Ins. 7), the god being named in an Oscan inscription on the flooring (a reproduction ; original now at Naples , p. 60). It is an edifice of very early origin, but restored after the earthquake of 63. We first enter a court with forty-eight columns, originally Ionic, which had been converted by means of stucco into Corinthian; but this coating has now fallen off. As the side towards the Forum was not pa- rallel with it, the wall, in order to prevent the eye being offended by this irregularity, was furnished in the interior with eight but- tresses at intervals, each projecting farther than the last. The temple itself rises in the centre of the court, on a basement 7l/o ft. in height. The column to the left of the steps, with an inscription of the duumviri, who erected it, bore a sun-dial. Facing the steps stands an Altar, with an inscription of the donors, the quatuor- viri of the town. Against the columns of the portico are six bases arranged in pairs , which formerly bore six Statues : Mer- cury and (probably) Maia (marble hermae), Apollo and Diana (bronze statues), Venus and a Hermaphrodite (marble statues). The Mercury is still in situ, the Maia is lost, and the four others are now at Naples. To the left, in the corner in front of the Venus and Diana, are two small altars. The Temple itself, which is approached

126 Route 8. POMPEII. Forum.

by thirteen steps, was surrounded by a Corinthian colonnade, and had a facade of six columns. Within the cella the pedestal is still preserved, where the figure of the god stood. On the left was the conical Omphalos, the well-known symbol of Apollo. The large tripod painted on the first pilaster to the right in the portico is also an attribute of this deity. — A chamber for the priests, de- corated with paintings, adjoins a back exit, through which we may reach the Forum.

The Torum forms the central point of the town (109 ft. above the sea-level"). On the N. side, detached, stands the temple of Ju- piter (see below) ; the other sides are enclosed by an arcade. -The open space in the centre, 515 ft. in length and 107 ft. in breadth, was paved with large slabs and embellished with numerous hono- rary statues. Twenty-two bases for the latter, five of which (four on the W. side, one at the S.E. corner) still bear incriptions, dedicated to officials of high rank, the duumviri (similar to the consuls of Rome) and quinquennales (censors) of the town, are preserved. The extensive basements on the S. side were destined for equestrian statues. The colonnade surrounding the Forum varies in breadth from 26 to 45 ft., a number of the buildings which adjoin it having been erected at a date prior to the construction of the Fovum. Above the lower columns of the Doric order rose a second series of the Ionic, thus constituting an upper, covered passage, approached by steps, several of which are still preserved. Even before the earth- quake of 63 the builders seem to have begun to substitute traver- tine columns for the older columns of tuffstone on the S. and E. sides, and to have been employed in carrying on the work at the time when the town was destroyed. Rough, unfinished portions of the new columns and architrave lie round the colonnade. — Six streets oonverge here, but the forum was protected against the tres- pass of riders or waggons by stone pillars round the margins, and could even be entirely shut off by gates.

Passing along the W. side of the Forum, we observe, at the N. end of the Temple of Apollo, No. 31, a niche, in which once stood a stone table with the standard weights and measures (see p. 60; its place now occupied by a poor reproduction). Then follows a flight of steps, which led to the portico of the Temple of Apollo. Far- ther on are No. 29, a hall apparently for commercial purposes, No. 28, a public latrina, and then No. 27, a dark building (closed) which appears to have been a prison or a treasury. Farther on, the Forum is bounded by a wall. In front of it, adjoining the Temple of Jupiter, is a Triumphal Arch.

On the N. side of the Forum and in the most conspicuous part of it, rises the *Temple of Jupiter (Reg. VII, ins. 8), on a basement 97-2 ft. in height. At the time of the eruption it was already in ruins. The pronaosis approached by fifteen steps. Aper- tures in the floor of the cella admit light to the underground

Macellum. POMPEII. 8. Route. 127

chambers , which were latterly used as a magazine for building materials, having probably been originally a treasury. The cella had two series of Ionic columns, eight in each, arranged one above the other. At the back are three chambers. At the farther end, to the left, a flight of steps ascends to the pedestal which bore the statue of the god, which the visitor should not omit to visit as it affords a fine panorama of Pompeii, Monte Sant' Angelo with the chapel of S. Miehele, Quisisana, and the Apennines.

On the other side of the Temple of Jupiter rises a larger Trium- phal Arch of brick, also divested of its marble, which here forms the boundary of the Forum. The niches on the N. side served as fountain-basins. At the corner of the street of the Augustales (p. 133) is a relief with figures of two men carrying a wine-jar, being the sign of a wine-merchant.

The most northerly building at the E. end of the Forum is the Macellum (formerly named the Pantheon), or hall for the sale of provisions, with a chapel in honour of the Emperor Augustus. In front of it are pedestals for statues ; on the exterior, shops pos- sibly occupied by money-changers. The building is entered by two doors (Nos. 7 and 8). The interior consists of a rectangular court. The walls are decorated with *Frescoes, of which those to the left of the entrance, representing Argus and Io, Ulysses and Penelope , are the best preserved. Above, on the walls, are re- presentations of various kinds of edibles, indicating the purpose of the building. The court was still unfinished when the catastrophe took place; it was destined to be enclosed by a colonnade, but the limestone masonry has been laid on the N. and W. sides only, while on the other sides the enclosure is formed by blocks of tufa. A dodecagon is formed in the centre by twelve pedestals (or al- tars?), on which stood columns bearing a domed roof (or perhaps statues). To the right are eleven chambers simply painted red, probably trading stalls ; at the extremity is an exit into a back street, with a niche indicated as the shrine of the Lares by painted serpents (comp. p. 122). To the left is an outlet to the Street of the Augustales (named after this edifice). On the E. side, opposite us as we enter the building, rises the shrine. On the principal pede- stal stood the statue of the emperor, in the side-niches probably Octavia, the sister of Augustus, and Marcellus, her son (here re- placed by copies). To the left of this shrine was another with an altar, which perhaps was employed in the celebration of the sa- crificial banquets ; the gallery by the lateral wall is believed to have been an orchestra. A larger apartment to the right, containing stands of masonry with a slight inclination , and furnished with gutters below to carry off blood or water, is supposed to have been a butoher's or fishmonger's.

No. 3, adjacent, is the so - called Curia, where it is generally believed the town-council held their deliberations , though more

128 Route 8. POMPEII. Temple of Mercury.

probably it was used in connection -with the worship of the em- peror. It is a square (uncovered?) hall, 65 ft. long, 58 ft. broad, with an altar in the middle, a hemicyclical termination, and several niches. The walls and pavement were formerly covered with marble.

We next reach No. 2, the so-called *Temple of Mercury, really a Temple of Augustus , 83 ft. in length and 53 ft. in breadth. The court had an arcade only in front. In the centre is an * Altar in marble with reliefs : on the front victims, on the sides the saeri- ficial utensils, on the back an oak-garland between two laurels, the symbol of Augustus. The form of this temple has been skilfully adapted to the irregular site on which it stands. At the back are three rooms formerly communicating with chambers behind the so- called Curia.

Adjoining, No. 1, is situated the Building of Eumachia (Reg. VII, Ins. 9), erected by the priestess Eumachia, and perhaps used as a wool-sellers' hall. On the frieze of the portico facing the Fo- rum, and still more fully over the entrance in the Str. dell' Ab- bondanza, may be read the following inscription : 'Eumachia Lucii filia sacerdos publica nomine suo et M. Numistri Frontonis fili chalcidicum cryptam porticus Concordiae Augustae Pietati sua pe- cunia fecit eademque dedicavit.' The interior is separated from the vestibule (chalcidicum ; on the walls , copies of two inscriptions dedicated to Romulus and jEneas) by a number of small chambers, where a great number of marble slabs, destined for the completion of the edifice, were found. In the interior is an open court, once sur- rounded by fifty -four columns of white marble, of which only fragments are left. This colonnade (porticus) is surrounded by a covered passage (crypta) , which afforded protection against the weather. At the back of this, in a niche, stands the statue of Eu- machia (a copy, the original being at Naples, p. 63), erected by the fullers (fullones) of Pompeii. — We pass out by the back exit into the Strada dell' Abbondanza. On the wall at the opposite corner are represented the twelve gods with their attributes, almost effaced. Nearer the Forum, No. 8, House of the Boar Hunt, named from the mosaic in the passage. The border of the large mosaic in the atrium represents an ancient town-wall.

On the E. side of the Forum, at the corner of the Strada dell' Abbondanza (p. 131), is a square hall, erroneously supposed to be a school.

On the S. side of the Forum are situated the Tribunals, three adjacent chambers, the centre one with a rectangular, the others with semicircular extremities, built of good brick which was once covered with marble. Probably one of them (that in the centre?) served as the meeting-place of the town-council, while the others were used for administrative or judicial purposes.

We leave the Forum by the Strada della Scuola, running to the S. on the left of the Tribunals. On its right side a number of

Theatres. POMPEII. 8. Route. 129

houses with several stories have recently been exhumed, on the site of the ruined walls on the slope of the hill occupied by the town. These (e. g. No. 16) command a fine view. In one of the lower stories of No. 19 is a bath-room with paintings. — We continue to descend, by the Vicolo del Teatri to the left to the so-called Forum Triangulare and the adjacent buildings, which have retained many of their pre-Roman characteristics.

We enter the Forum Triangulare through a fine arcade, partly restored. The forum was bounded on three sides by a porticus of a hundred columns of the Doric order, destined chiefly for the use of frequenters of the theatre. On the N. side is a pedestal for a statue of Marcellus, nephew of Augustus, with an inscription. The side next the sea was open. On a basement here, approached by live steps, stood a Temple in the ancient Greek style, 101 ft. in length and 67 ft. in breadth, perhaps dedicated to Apollo. It was surrounded by columns, six being in front and eleven at each side, and in the centie was the shrine. The whole building was in the ancient Doric order of about the 6th cent. B.C. A few capitals, two broken columns, and some fragments of the wall of the cella are now the sole remains of this once imposing structure. It was doubtless overthrown before the earthquake of 63 ; and the inhabitants of the stuccoed buildings of the imperial age would never dream of restor- ing it in its massive and simple dignity. — The enclosed space in front of the temple was perhaps used for the slaughter of the victims. To the left of it are three altars.

Beyond the temple, No. 32, is the so-called Bidental, consist- ing of the large embouchure of a fountain (Puteal) within a small circular temple, 12 ft. in diameter, with eight Doric columns. — On the other side of the temple is a semicircular seat, with a sun-dial.

To the E. of the Bidental the visitor looks down into a portico, lying below the theatre and originally belonging to it, but after- wards fitted up as Barracks for Gladiators. It possesses seventy- four columns, and around it are a number of detached cells. The edifice had a second floor, as the imitation on the S. side shows, which contains the rooms of some of the custodians. In a chamber used as a prison were found three skeletons and iron stocks for the feet (now replaced by a poor wooden reproduction) , in another chamber some gladiatorial weapons were found. Sixty-three bodies in all were discovered in this building.

Adjoining the Forum Triangulare on the N., and adapted to the sloping ground, is the *Great Theatre (Teatro Scoperto). It is a building of very early origin, but about the beginning of the Christian era it was restored by the architect M. Artorius, at the expense of M. Holconius Rufus and M. Holconius Celer. The space for the spectators (opening to the S.) consists of three ranks (ima, media, and summa cavea) ; the first contains four tiers for the chairs of

Baedeker. Italy III. 11th Edition. 9

130 Route 8. POMPEII. Temple of Isis.

persons of rank, the second twenty, and the third four. Corridors and staircases led to the different parts of the building. It is estimated that 5000 spectators could be accommodated. Behind the orchestra is the long and narrow stage, in front of which is an opening in the ground for the rising and falling the curtain. The posterior wall of the stage, once adorned with statues, is provided with three doors, according to the rules of the ancient drama. Behind these was the dressing-room. On the summit of the outer wall are seen the stone rings for the poles which supported an awning in sunny weather. Behind the theatre is a square reservoir, the water of which was used in hot weather for refreshing the spectators by means of a slight sprinkling.

The adjacent * Small Theatre (Teatro Coperto) is better pre- served than the great. An inscription records that it was roofed in (theatrum tectum). Number of spectators 1500. The seats are cut out in such a way that the feet of the spectator did not incon- venience the person sitting on the tier below him. The building dates from about B.C. 75. The marble pavement of the orchestra was, according to an inscription, presented by M. Oculatius , a duumvir.

To the E. of the small theatre passes the Strada Stabiana (Cardo), which traverses the entire city from N. to S. Outside the ancient Stabian Oate the beginning of a street of tombs has been exhumed. — In the cross street in Region I., between Insula? 1 and 2, at No. 28, is an atrium, the compluvium of which was cov- ered with an iron grating (restored") as a protection against thieves. No. 2, on the right of the same street, was a tannery.

We continue to ascend the Stabian Street. On the left, at the corner of the Street of the Temple of Isis (Via Secunda), Reg. VIII, Ins. 8, No. 25, is the so-called *Temple of iEsculapius, the smallest in Pompeii , 68 ft. long, 22^2 ft- broad. The anterior court con- tains an archaic altar of tufa , recalling the sarcophagus of Scipio in the Vatican. The name of the temple is derived from a terra- cotta statue of Jupiter found here , which was at first taken for a statue of iEsculapius. As a statue of Juno and a bust of Minerva were also found , it is probable that these three deities were all worshipped here (as in the Temple of Jupiter on the Capitol at Rome). — Farther on in the Street of the Temple of Isis, on the left, No. 28, rises the *Temple of Isis, which, as the copy of the inscription over the entrance informs us, was restored after the earthquake of 63 by N. Popidius Celsinus, a boy six years of age, at his own expense, who in recognition of this service was re- ceived into the rank of the decuriones. The court is surrounded by a porticus; between the columns are several altars, and an an- cient aperture for the reception of the remains of sacrifices now used as an air-shaft of the Sarno tunnel. On the left is a small shrine, the so-called Purgatorium, in which ablutions were per-

Str. dell' Abbondanza. POMPEII. 8. Route. 131

formed; a staircase here descended to a well ; the walls are taste- fully adorned with reliefs in stucco. A statuette of Isis, now in the Naples Museum (p. 61), was found in the portico of this temple. The chambers adjoining the wall on the left were occupied hy the priests. Several bodies were found here ; and on the altar were remains of sacrifices. — The next door on the left, No. 29, leads into the so-called Curia Jsiaca, a court surrounded by columns. Opposite the door is the pedestal of a statue , on which the Dory- phorus, now in the Naples Museum (p. 62), was found. Behind it is a small flight of steps, which was perhaps used for placing garlands on the statue; in front is a low stone plinth or table. The place was a palffistra of the Oscan period, and was afterwards shortened.

We return to the Stabian Street and ascend it farther. To the left is a small sanctuary of the Lares; to the right, No. 5 is the Casa del Citarista, named after the Apollo in the style of Pasiteles found here (p. 68). This is one of the largest houses at Pompeii, com- prising two atria and three peristyles.

At the next crossing (88 ft. above the sea-level) the Strada dell' Abbondanza (see below) diverges on the left, and on the right, the Strada dei Diadumeni towards the Porta del Sarno, which is, however, only excavated as far as the next street. At the corner here is the buttress of an aqueduct, leaden pipes from which are ob- served on the pavement farther on. On the left, Reg. IX, Ins. 1, No. 20, is the Casa dei Diadumeni, or of Epidius Rufus, with a sloping platform in front of the facade, and a handsome atrium with fourteen columns. Within it is a lararium on the right, with the inscription 'Genio Marci nostri et Laribus duo Diadumeni li- berti'. At the back is a garden, to the left of which is the vaulted kitchen. — The atrium of the House of Epidius Sabinus, No. 22 (left), contains a well-preserved lararium; pretty view of two peri- styles. — Ascending the embankment in a straight direction, we reach a cart-road leading to the Amphitheatre (see p. 142).

We now enter the broad Strada dell' Abbondanza, which ascends to the Forum, and was closed at both ends by means of stone pillars, in order to exclude carriages. About the middle is a fountain with a head and cornucopia of Abundantia (or rather Concordia), whence the name of the street.

L., Reg. VIII, Ins. 4, No. 15, *House of Cornelius Rufus. The atrium contains two handsome pedestals for tables, and a bust with the inscription, 'C. Cornelio Rufo'. The peristyle has eighteen columns.

R., No. 8, is the principal entrance to the *Stabian Thermae (closed on Sunday). They date from the Oscan period, but were afterwards extended and re-decorated. We enter a spacious court, flanked by pillars on two sides , which was used for paltEstric exer- cises. Adjoining this to the right is the Men's Bath. Off a vesti-

9*

132 Route 8. POMPEII. Stabian Thermae.

bule to the left was the cold hath, a circular building with four re- cesses and an opening in the dome ; in front were the undressing room with recesses for hanging up the clothes, and another entrance from the Stabian Street. Both here and in the vestibule the roofs are adorned with fine reliefs in stucco. Farther to the left are the tepid room (tepidarium ; with a plunge-bath, unusual in such rooms) and the hot room (calidarium), both heated by means of double walls and floors. — In the right corner of the court at the back is the Women's Bath. The door above leads into a vestibule , into which the dressing-room opens on the left; from the street are two separate entrances. Round the vaulted hall are niches for clothes; in the corner is a basin enclosed by masonry. Adjacent are the warm bath and the sudatory ; at one end is a marble basin, at the other a fountain for warm water, with a pipe connecting it with the stoves (visible on the outside); the walls are double. The stoves were between the men's and women's baths. In the wing opposite, which has a side-entrance from the street, are four baths for single bathers on the left. — In the court, opposite the entrance, is a herma of Mercury resembling that in the Temple of Apollo. On the wall on the left are stucco ornaments in relief. The first room to the left served for undressing; the walls still bear traces of the presses for hanging up the clothes. Next to this is a shallow basin used for washing after gymnastic exercises ; then a swim- ming-bath. The following room was also originally a hath, but was afterwards filled up and used for other purposes.

L., Reg. VIII, Ins. 4, No. 4, the House ofHolconius, with hand- some peristyle, rich in paintings, but faded. In the oecus (r.) Ariadne and Bacchus; (1.) Hermaphrodite; in the room to the right, Rape of Europa ; in the room to the left, Achilles in Scyros, and Judgment of Paris.

A few paces farther the Theatre Street diverges to the right, leading to the Forum Triangulare (p. 129), while we follow the Vico del Lupanahe to the right.

R., Reg. VII, Ins. 1, No. 47, *House of Siricus. On the thresh- old the inscription 'Salve lucru(mf ; to the same proprietor be- longed the large adjacent bakehouse, No. 46. To the left of the atrium are two rooms with good paintings : (1.) Neptune and Apollo helping to build the walls of Troy ; opposite, Drunken Hercules ; (r.) Vulcan presenting Thetis with weapons for Achilles. In the centre of the peristyle is a pavilion borne by four green columns. A staircase leads to the left to the other part of the house, the principal entrance of wich (now closed) opened from the Strada Stabiana, another peristyle, and an atrium containing a handsome marble table.

To the left on the opposite wall are large snakes, with the in- scription: 'Otiosis locus hie non est, discede morator'.

To the left at the corner of the second lane, the Vicolo del

Strada Stabiana. POMPEII. a. Route. 133

Baloone Pensile, is Reg. VII, Ins. 12, No. 18, the Lupanare (closed) ; at the sides five sleeping-places ; in front, the seat of the hostess. The bad character of the house is sufficiently indicated by the paintings and inscriptions. A separate entrance from the street ascended direct to the upper floor, which had a gallery facing two streets. — In the Vicolo del Balcone Pensile, on the right (Reg. VII, Ins. 12, No. 28), is the *House with the Balcony [Casa del Balcone Pensile; opened on request). The atrium contains a fountain with a marble figure on the right. Three rooms of the projecting upper floor have been preserved by carefully replacing the charred wood- work by new beams — a laborious and costly undertaking.

We return; to the Vico del Lupanare. To the right, at the first corner, is the shoemaker's shop of M. Nonius Campanus, a retired Praetorian, assigned to him by his former centurion, M. Caesius Blandus, the landlord. — Nearly opposite, in the street of the Augustales (p. 127), is the Casa delV Orso, named from a mosaic of a wounded bear at the entrance.

We now turn to the right and after a few yards regain the Strada Stabiana, which we ascend.

To the right (Reg. IX, Ins. 3, No. 5), the *House of Marcus Lucretius, once richly fitted up, though with questionable taste (shown at the request of the visitor). Behind the atrium is a small garden , laid out in terraces , with a fountain and a number of marble figures. The best of the paintings are preserved at Naples. This is one of the few houses in Pompeii of which the proprietor's name is known. The information was afforded by a letter painted on the wall with the address 'M. Lucretio Flam. Martis decurioni Pompei'.

The whole of Insula 4 in Region IX is occupied by extensive Thermae, which were in course of construction at the time the city was overwhelmed. In the large court, which is accessible on three sides , the labourers were in the very act of making the gutter and laying the bases for the columns of the portico. The large swimming-basin, to the left, below the windows of the inner rooms, was also unfinished. Instead of the two swimming- baths, for men and women, usually found in the Thermae, there is here only this one, which is, however, of unwonted size, and quite destitute of ornamentation. Passing through an antechamber on the left, off which open several rooms of unknown purpose, we reach the dressing-room (apodyterium), containing a large bath of cold water (frigidarium). Next to this is the warm bath (tepida- rium), beyond which is the hot chamber (calidarium), with three basins for hot baths. To the left of the tepidarium is the laconi- cum, or sudatory, covered with a vaulted roof, and also connected with the calidarium. The three rooms last mentioned appear to have been heated by means of double floors and walls, traces of which are still visible in the laconicum. The heating- furnaces had

134 Route 8. POMPEII. Strada di Nola.

not yet been built. The three largest rooms are provided with large windows, another divergence from the ordinary plan of the Thermae.

The next crossing, where the Strada della Fortuna (p. 135) leads to the left and the Stkada di Nola to the right, may be described as the centre of the city. We follow the latter street which leads in 5 min. to the gate of the same name, one of the most ancient in the town. Here the insula 4 and 5, and part of 6 and 7 in Keg. IX, have been excavated to the S., and the insula 1 and part of 2, Reg. V, to the N.

To the left, at Reg. V, Ins. 1, No. 7, is a fine capital with figures.

The houses to the right, in the insula (IX, 5) beyond the Thermae, contain numerous paintings, most of which, however, are of little ar- tistic merit. The first house, No. 2, contains, in the room to the left of the tablinum, two scenes from the story of Achilles : Hephaestus showing Thetis the armour he had made for Achilles, and Thetis on a Triton taking the armour to her son. — The house No. 6, farther on, which contains an unusual number of pictures, is also remark- able for its peculiar oblong ground - plan. In the roofed room to the right, in front of the peristyle of No. 9, are Egyptian land- scapes with pygmies. The house No. 11 has representations of the Muses (to the right, next the tablinum). — The house in the S.E. angle of this insula, No. 16, seems to have been a tavern, and contains a room with paintings of the grossest description ; in the room to the right of the atrium, the Muses.

Of the next insula (IX, 6), to the E. of the last, only one large house (Casa del Centenario) has been excavated. It contains a spacious peristyle , two covered rooms (one with decorations on a white ground), and a small bath, the marble flooring of which seems to have been removed in some ancient excavation. Adjacent is a room tastefully decorated with paintings , inserted in the walls at a later period: right, Orestes, Pylades, and Iphigenia; left, Theseus and the Minotaur; centre, Hermaphrodite and Sil- enus. The pavement also was black.

We return to the crossing mentioned above, and turning to the right, follow the northern extension of the Strada Stabiana. At the corner to the left are a Fountain and an Altar of the Lares ; adjacent is a pillar of the Aqueduct. Of the houses the following are noticeable : — L., Reg. VI, Ins. 14, No. 20, with a mutilated herma erected by the arcarius (cashier) Anteros to M. Vesonius Primus , the master of the house , with projecting props for the support of wreaths. The peristyle is adorned with a fresco of Orpheus, over life-size. • — No. 22, a Fullonica, or fuller's workshop. The atrium contains a handsome impluvium and several handsome table- supports. In the room at the back are three basins (comp. p. 137), and on the wall are paintings of a banquet of fullers (fullones) and a scene in a court of law. — Opposite, to the right, Reg. V, Ins. 1,

Str. della Fortuna. POMPEII. 8. Route. 135

No. 26, the house of L. Caecilius Jucundus, the banker, where the receipts now preserved in the Museo Nazionale (p. 71) were discov- ered. In the atrium stood a herma erected to the banker by his freedman Felix; the pedestal, with the inscription lOenio L(uci) nostri Felix l(ibertusf is still here, but the bronze bust has been removed to the Museo (p. 67). In the atrium, to the left, is the lower part of the chapel of the Lares, with a relief representing the N. side of the Forum. The beautiful paintings in the tablinum are unfortunately somewhat faded. — Farther on, No. 18 ; the last room to the left of the peristyle is adorned with paintings and Greek epigrams (to the left, Pan and Cupid wrestling).

We again return to the crossing mentioned on p. 134 and thence follow the Strada della Fobtuna (Decumanus Major).

L., at the first corner, Reg. VIII, Ins. 4, No. 48, House of the Chase ('C. della Caccia')- Beyond the finely-painted tablinum we enter the peristyle ; opposite, wild beast fights, whence the name of the house ; on the right, landscapes, with Polyphemus and Galatea.

L. No. 51 , House of Ariadne ('C. di Arianna'), extending to the Street of the Augustales, towards which it has its atrium. From the Strada della Fortuna (capital with figures at the entrance) we first enter the garden; in the centre is the peristyle with sixteen columns with variegated capitals. In the centre is a fountain. A room to the right contains fine wall-paintings.

L. No. 56, House of the Grand-Duke of Tuscany (PI. 2), small, with mosaic fountain.

L. No. 57, Casa dei Capitelli Figurati, named after the capitals of the entrance-pillars , adorned with figures of Bacchantes and Fauns. Tasteful atrium and peristyle. From the peristyle, in which is a pavilion with six columns and a sun-dial, we enter a sugar-bakehouse, the use of which has been conjectured from the nature of the objects found in it. The oven is still in existence.

L., No. 59, Casa della Pareta Nera, so called from the remarkably beautiful black *Wall in the exedra, behind the peristyle.

Opposite, on the right, Keg. VI, Ins. 12, Nos. 2-5, the *House of the Faun, so named from the statuette of a dancing Faun found here (p. 67). The house occupies a whole insula, and is the most sumptuous in Pompeii, 262 ft. long and 125 ft. broad. The style of its decoration proves it to date from the republican era (2nd cent. B.C.). It contained beautiful mosaics , but hardly any mural paintings. The stucco on the walls is an imitation of in- crustation in coloured marble (comp. p. xliv). On the pavement in front of the house is the greeting 'Have'. It possesses two entrances and two atria. The left atrium (35 ft. by 38 ft.) is in the Tuscan style , i. e. the roof was borne by cross-beams without vertical support. Near the impluvium the statuette of the Faun was found. The simpler atrium on the right is an atrium tetrastylum, i. e. the roof-beams surrounding the impluvium were borne by four columns.

136 Route 8. POMPEII. Str. delle Terme.

It was used as a vestibule to the offices on the right : bath, kitchen, etc. The peristyle contained twenty-eight Ionic columns of tufa coated with stucco. At the back of the exedra, beside the red columns, was found the celebrated mosaic of the Battle of Alexander (p. 65). At the back is a garden with a Doric portico.

A few paces farther on, the Forum Street leads to the left, the Mercury Street (p. 137) to the right.

Reg. VII, Ins. 4, No. 1, at the corner of the Forum Street, is the Temple of Fortuna , erected according to the inscription by M. Tullius during the reign of Augustus. (The inscription is upon the architrave of the aedicula in the rear, now lying in the temple. J It is approached by thirteen steps. The entrance was at the top of the first flight of steps, and was separated from the altar which stood there by a railing. — ■ Hence to the Forum, see p. 127.

From this point we follow the continuation of the Strada della Fortuna, called Strada delle Teems.

On the left, is the entrance to the * Thermae (Reg. VII, Ins. 5; 'Terme del Foro'), which occupy a whole insula. The exterior was surrounded by shops, which had no connection with the interior. Two of the six entrances admit to an elegant irregular court, with arcades and columns. Thence, or direct from the street (No. 2), we enter the chamber for undressing (apodyterium) ; surrounded by benches. Beyond this is the cold bath (frigidarium) ; the vault above was provided with a glass window. The water gushed forth from a copper mouth-piece opposite the entrance and was let off below the entrance. To the right of the undressing room is the warm bath (tepidarium). A frieze running round it is furnished with niches for depositing clothes and articles of the toilet, and is supported by figures of Atlas in terracotta. The vaulting was richly decorated with stucco figures in relief. This chamber was heated by means of the large brazier of bronze (to the left), which, with three bronze benches, was presented, according to the inscription, by M. Nigidius Vaccula, to whose name (vacca = cow) the cow on the brazier and the cows' heads on the benches are references. Adjacent is the hot-air bath (cali- darium or sudatorium). A niche at the end contains a marble basin for washing the hands and face with cold water ; it bears an inscription recording that it was erected at a cost of 5250 sesterces (39i. sterling). At the other end is the basin for warm baths. The apartment has double walls and floor, between which the steam diffused itself. From the undressing-room we reach the furnace, and then a small court to the left, with two columns, one of which probably bore a sun-dial. — No. 8, Strada delle Terme, is the Wo- men's Bath, simpler than the men's ; the tepidarium here also had double walls and floor.

Nearly opposite to the Thermae, Reg. VI, Ins. 8, No. 5 is the * House of the Tragic Poet, one of the most elegant in Pompeii, so called from two representations found in the tablinum a poet

Str. delle Terme. POMPEII. 8. Route. 137

reading (more probably Admetus and Alcestis), and a mosaic of a theatrical rehearsal (which, together with beautiful paintings of sub- jects from the Iliad , are now in the museum at Naples). This is represented by Bulwer Lytton in his 'Last Days of Pompeii' (1834) as the dwelling of Glaucus. On the threshold was a dog in mo- saic, with the inscription 'Cave Canem', now at Naples (p. 58). The peristyle of seven columns is closed at the back by a wall, on which is a small shrine of the Lares. In the triclinium on the right, Youth and maiden looking at a nest containing Cupids (above, Marsyas playing the flute and Olympus), Theseus aban- doning Ariadne, and Diana with Orion (?). On the side-panels are personifications of the seasons.

Reg. VI, Ins. 6, No. 1, beyond the cross-street, on the right, is the House of Pansa (Domus Cn. Allei Nigidi Mai), one of the largest in Pompeii, occupying a whole insula, 319 ft. long and 124 ft. broad. It comprises sixteen shops and dwellings , facing two of the streets. On the threshold was found a mosaic with the greeting 'Salve'. This house affords a normal specimen of a palatial residence of the imperial epoch , complete in all its appointments : atrium, tablinum , peristyle , oecus (to the left, adjacent, the kitchen with the snakes), and lastly the garden or xystus. Comp. Groundplan, p. 120.

At the picturesque corner opposite, Reg. VI , Ins. 3 , No. 20, is a tavern, the street to the left of which leads to the Porta di Ercolano (p. 140).

We return to the Temple of Fortuna, and, turning to the left, follow the Stbada di Meucueio, at the entrance to which rises a Brick Arch, on which the pipes of a water-conduit are visible. It was once surmounted by the bronze statue of Caligula, mentioned at p. 69.

L., Reg. VI, Ins. 8, No. 14, is a small Temple of the Lares.

R. Reg. VI, Ins. 10, No. 7, House of the Anchor, named after an anchor in mosaic on the threshold. By the tablinum we descend to a peristyle, the pavement of which was higher than the garden. The latter, to which a staircase descends, was on the level of the Strada della Fortuna, and was surrounded by a cryptoporticus and numerous niches containing altars.

R., No. 6, House of Pomponius, with an oil-mill to the right of the entrance.

L. No. 20, the Fullonica, or fuller's establishment. The square pillars (on one of which were frescoes alluding to the fuller's art, now in Naples) supported a gallery (Solarium) for drying the cloth. Around are dwelling-rooms and bed-chambers, as well as rooms for the workmen. To the right is the kitchen, with an oven; and behind are four basins on different levels, destined for washing the cloths, which were afterwards stamped with the feet in the small stands to the right. One egress leads to the Strada

138 Route 8. POMPEII. Str. di Mercurio.

della Fullonica. Adjacent to these premises, and connected with them by a door, was the hexastyle atrium, No. 21.

L. No. 22, House of the Large Fountain, at the end of which is a mosaic *Fountain.

L., No. 23 , House of the Small Fountain (della piccola fon- tana) ; to the right of the entrance a staircase ascends to the 2nd floor. At the end of the house is a fountain of gaily coloured mo- saic, adorned with a small and graceful bronze : Boy with a goose (a copy, original at Naples). The walls are decorated with landscapes, among which is a *Harbour on the left.

R., No. 1, a Tavern; towards the street is a table covered with marble and a fire-place. A door leads from the shop to the left into a small room adorned with various allusions to drinking : a waggon with a wine-skin, players and drinkers, eatables, etc. In the corner to the left a soldier is being served ; above him is scribbled : 'da fridam pusillum' (pour in some fresh water). To the right two other chambers; the second contains paintings of Polyphemus and Galatea, and Venus fishing. — In front of the ta- vern is a fountain with a head of Mercury, after which the street has been named.

From the corner of the Vicolo di Mercurio a digression may be made in the adjacent street to the left to the House of the Labyrinth (beyond the first side-street, immediately to the left), a roomy dwelling with two atria; principal entrance, Reg. VI, Ins. 11, No. 10, second door No. 9. In the passage leading to the peri- style, immediately to the left and opening on the latter, is a window of terracotta with six small apertures, resembling pigeon- holes. In the room beyond the peristyle, to the left, a mosaic pavement : Theseus killing the Minotaur in the Labyrinth. The left half of the house was destined for the menage ; it contains a bake- house and adjoining it a bath with three rooms.

Farther on in the Strada di Mercurio, Nos. 7 and 6 (Reg. VI, Ins. 9) on the left, are the House of Castor and Pollux (Domus Cn. Caetroni Eutychi), consisting of two distinct houses , but connected. No. 7 is simple and homely. It is connected with the neighbouring house by a large peristyle, adorned with paintings all round. The restored roof affords an idea of the original lighting of the house. In the peristyle is a basin for a fountain ; beyond it is a hall. On the right wall of the passage leading to the Corin- thian atrium of the other house is the Venus Pompeiana. Beyond the atrium are the tablinum and a garden with lararium. Fine *Frescoes in the room to the right of the tablinum : to the left, Birth of Adonis; on the entrance- wall , Hippolytus and Phaedra; in an apartment to the left of the garden, Apollo and Daphne.

Farther on, Nos. 5-3, House of the Centaur, two different houses, connected by a door. No. 3 has a fine bed-room (to the right), adorned with imitation marble.

Str. di Sallustio. POMPEII. 8. Route. 139

Adjacent, No. 2, *House of Meleager. Within the doorway, to the right , Mercury handing a purse to Fortuna. The atrium con- tains a marble table, borne by griffins ; beneath, an arrangement for keeping viands cool by means of water. Contrary to the usual ar- rangement, the peristyle does not lie behind, but to the left of the atrium. The porticus is adorned by a graceful fountain. Adjoining the peristyle at the back is an cecus, enclosed on three sides by Corinthian columns. Among the frescoes, to the right, a young Satyr startling a Bacchante with a snake. To the left of the OBCus is a hall with frescoes : on the transverse wall to the left, the Judgment of Paris.

We return along the opposite side of the street. Reg. VI, Ins. 7, No. 23, House of Apollo (Domus A. Herenulei Communis), named from the representations of that god which were found here. Behind the gaily-painted *Tablinum, a fountain in a grotesque style. At the end of the garden, to the right, is a handsome sleeping- chamber (for two beds) ; on the external wall is a landscape with a Bacchanalian, and a mosaic of Achilles in Scyros ; among the weapons which Ulysses offers him is a shield, on which Achilles and Chiron are represented. In the interior are representations of Apollo and Marsyas and other mythological subjects.

No. 18, House of the Wounded Adonis (Domus M. Asellini). In the xystus , to the right, a fresco , above life-size , of *Adonis wounded, tended and bewailed by Venus and Cupids ; at the sides, Achilles and Chiron. In a*Room to the left, 'Toilet of the Herma- phrodite' .

We here turn to the right and following the W. branch of the Vicolo di Mercurio, soon reach the Strada di Sallustio, which leads to the Porta diErcolano. This was a business-street and con- tained few handsome houses. Opposite the Vicolo is a house fitted up as a Library, containing an collection of archaeological works, and for the reception of students supported by government (Scuola Archeologica).

Farther on, to the right, Reg. VI, Ins. 2, No. 4, is the House of Sallust (Domus A. Coss. Libani), with the atrium and adjacent rooms lined with stucco painted to imitate marble. Behind the tab- linum is a small irregularly-shaped garden, with a triclinium in an arbour in the corner. Instead of a peristyle, this house contains a small court enclosed by pillars, to the right of the atrium, and styled, though without authority, the Venereum. On the wall oppo- site, *Actason converted into a stag, and torn to pieces by his own dogs ; to the left, Europa and the bull ; to the right, Phrixus and Helle. In the small room to the right, Venus and Mars.

No. 6 is a Bakehouse, with ovens and mills. The latter were turned by asses or slaves. — At the corner of the street is a foun- tain, and behind it a building erroneously described as a reservoir of the aqueduct.

140 Route 8. .POMPEII. Street of Tombs.

Some of the houses on the left, on the slope of the hill occu- pied by the town , had several stories , and large vaults, used as magazines. From this point and from the following houses a charm- ing glimpse is obtained of the bay with the island of Capri ; near the land is the picturesque rocky islet of Revigliano ; to the right is Torre Annunziata.

A large, open hall to the right, Reg. VI, Ins. 1, No. 13, is called, without authority, a Custom House; its real character is unknown. — No. 10, a little farther on, to the right, is the House of the Surgeon , so called from a considerable number of surgical instruments found here. It is remarkable for its massive construction of limestone blocks from the river Sarno , and it is probably the most ancient house in the town. "We next reach No. 7, on the right, the extensive House of the Vestals.

No. 3, on the left, opposite, is a large Tavern, with a phallus towards the street, intended to avert the evil eye. It contains two wine-tables, and has an entrance for waggons. — No. 2, on the right, is another tavern.

The Porta di Ercolano or Herculanean Qate (135 ft. above the sea-level) is believed to date from the time of Augustus. It consists of three series of arches , of which the central and largest .has fallen in. The depth of the passage is 59 ft. To the right is the approach to the *Town Wall, which may be visited for the sake of the view. The wall (p. 122) consists of an outer and inner wall, the intervening space being filled with earth. The height of the external wall varies according to the ground from 25 to 33 ft., the internal being uniformly 8 ft. higher. Originally built of large blocks of tufa and limestone, it appears to have been partly de- stroyed in the peaceful period of the second century B.C., and to have been afterwards repaired chiefly with concrete (small pieces of lava consolidated with cement). At the same time it was strengthened with towers. The difference between these kinds of building will be observed near this gate. — (From this point on- wards, comp. the supplementary part of the Plan at p. 120.)

The suburb outside this gate is perhaps the Pagus Augustus Felix, named thus in honour of Augustus. It consisted chiefly of one main street, which has been partly excavated. This is the so-called *Street of the Tombs (Strada deiSepolcri), part of the great military road from Capua to Naples, Herculaneum, Pompeii, and Reggio. The ancient Roman custom of burying the dead by the side of a high-road iswell known. It has been ascertained that rows of graves, similar to those discovered here, exist beyond other gates also (p. 130). The Street of Tombs is in point of scenery the most picturesque part of the town.

On the right, No. 1, is a large tomb, apparently in the form of an altar, the upper part of which is destroyed ; in the tomb-cavity beneath several cinerary urns were found.

Street of Tombs. POMPEII. 8. Route. 141

On the left, No. 1, is the Tomb of Cerrinius, a recess with seats. It has been said that this was a sentry-box, and that here was found the skeleton of a sentinel who died at his post; but this is a mere fiction, like many other Pompeian anecdotes.

L. No. 2, a semicircular seat with the pedestal of a statue of the duumvir A. Veins.

L. No. 3, Tomb of M. Porcius, probably the builder of the am- phitheatre and the small theatre ; according to the inscription the town-council granted him a piece of ground 25 ft. square for a grave.

L. No. 4, *Tomb of Mamia; in front a seat like the above, with the inscription : 'Mamiae Publii filiae sacerdoti publicae locus se- pulturae datus decurionum decreto' . At the back, enclosed by a low wall, is the tomb, with niches for cinerary urns. The view hence of the bay and the mountains of Castellammare is singularly beautiful. — On a street diverging to the right, No. 2, is the ruinous Tomb of Terentius.

Farther on, on the right, No. 6, is the Tomb of the Oarlands, so called from its decorations; name unknown. R. No. 9, an open recess and seat.

A street, now built up, formerly diverged here to the left. On the corner is an inscription (copy) to the effect that Suedius Clemens, the tribune, on behalf of Vespasian, restored to the town of Pompeii certain common land that had been illegally occupied by private persons. — Then, Nos. 5 and 6, the so-called Villa of Cicero, again covered up. The buttresses still visible belong to a colonnade which ran parallel with the street.

R. Nos. 10 and 11, two shops. No. 12, House of the Mosaic Columns, very dilapidated, probably an inn. The entrance leads first into a garden, in which stood a pavilion supported by four mo- saic columns (now at Naples, p. 58). Behind is a fountain-recess inlaid with mosaic ; to the left is a court with a private chapel and altar. Two staircases ascend to the upper floor.

On the left, beyond the villa of Cicero, several handsome mon- uments will be observed : No. 16, that of Servilia. No. 17, that of Scaurus, with reliefs in stucco, representing gladiatorial combats, but in a very ruinous condition. The columbarium contains niches for the urns.

On the right is a long arcade, at the back of which there were shops. From the skeleton of a mule found here it has been suggested that this was a resort of peasants on market-days. — To the right, in the street which is not yet excavated, are several ancient tombs of limestone, belonging to the remote Oscan period, when the dead were buried instead of being burned, and when painted vessels of terracotta were interred with them.

On the right are several uncompleted tombs.

L. No. 18, a circular monument, name unknown.

L. No. 20, *Tomb of the Augustalis Calventius Quintus ; below

142 Route 8. POMPEII. Street of Tombs.

the inscription is represented the bisellium (seat of honour) ac- corded him in recognition of his liberality.

R. No. 36, *Tomb of M. Alleius Luccius Libella and his son, of travertine, and well-preserved , with inscriptions.

L. No. 22, *Tomb of Naevoleia Tyche, with chamber for ciner- ary urns. The deceased was a freedwoman , who , according to the inscription, destined this tomb for herself and 0. Munatius Faustus, chief official of this quarter of the town, and for their freedmen. A relief below refers to the consecration of the tomb; on the left side is the bisellium, or magisterial seat of Munatius, on the right a vessel entering the harbour, a symbol of human life. No. 23 was a Triclinium for banquets in honour of the dead.

On the hill to the right are several tombs, some of them in a very ruinous condition. Among these are: No. 41, the tomb of IV. Velasius Gratus, a boy of twelve years, a small niche with one of the head-shaped tombstones peculiar to Pompeii ; No. 40, to the right, a similar tomb with no name ; farther on, tombs erected by the freedman M. Arrius Diomedes to himself (No. 42), his family, and his former mistress Arria (No. 43). The fasces or bundles of rods in stucco-relief, on the tomb of Diomedes (No. 42), indicate his dignity as a magistrate of the Pagus Augustus Felix (p. 140).

No. 24, * Villa of Diomedes, arbitrarily so called from the above-mentioned tomb. The arrangement of this , like that of other villas , differs considerably from that of the urban dwellings. A flight of steps with two columns leads at once to the peristyle, whence the bath is entered to the left. Opposite is a terrace, with rooms , which rise above the lower portion of the house. The garden , 107 ft. square , with a basin for a fountain and a pavilion supported by six columns in the centre , is surrounded by a colonnade. From the terrace a staircase descends to the left (another, from the entrance from the street, to the right). Below this colonnade , on three sides, lies a vaulted cellar lighted by small apertures above , and approached by staircases descend- ing at each end. Eighteen bodies of women and children, who had provided themselves with food, and sought protection in this vault against the eruption, were found here. But impalpable ashes penetrated through the openings into the interior, and too late the ill-fated party endeavoured to escape. They were found with their heads wrapped up, half buried by the ashes. The impression made on the ashes by a girl's breast is now in the museum at Naples. The probable proprietor of the house was found near the garden-door (now walled up), with the key in Ms hand; beside him was a slave with money and valuables.

The *Amphitheatre , situated at the S.E. end of the town, lies detached from the other ruins (coupon of admission ticket must be shown here). Those who do not reserve it for the last,

CASTELLAMMARE. 9. Route. 143

will And it most convenient to visit the amphitheatre immediately after the Stabian Thermae (p. 131), whence it may be reached via the Strada dei Diadumeni in about 8 minutes. Outwardly the build- ing looks somewhat insignificant, as a great part of it, as high as the second story, was excavated in the earth for the purpose of simplifying the construction. Round the exterior runs an uncovered gallery, to which stairs ascend for the use of the spectators in the upper places. The principal entrance descends considerably. Whole length 148, width 114 yds. ; number of spectators 20,000. Three different series of seats are distinguished, the first with five, the second with twelve, and the third with eighteen tiers ; above these also ran a gallery. The seats are cut out in the same manner as in the small theatre. The building was begun in B.C. 70, and after- wards continued at intervals. For several decades before the year 79 the amphitheatre had not been used, so that the story of the people having been surprised by the eruption while witnessing a gladiator combat here is a pure myth.

On leaving the Amphitheatre we may return by the high-road to the railway-station of Pompeii in ]/4 nr'i or proceed to the station of Torre Annunziata (p. 118), in 3/4 hr. — Or we may reach the station of Valle di Pompei (p. 160) in about 6 min. in the opposite direction. On this way there are several tombs (in the field beyond the second house), which lay on the ancient road from Pompeii to Nuceria (closed at present).

9. Castellammare, Sorrento, and Capri.

Comp. the Map.

Railway from Naples to Castellammare, 17 M., in 3/t-l hr. ; fares 2 fr. 25, 1 fr. 45 c. ; ten (Sun. sixteen) trains daily. From Caserta to Castellammare, see p. 10. — Carriage from Castellammare to Sorrento, 10 M., in l'/ahr. ; tariff, see p. 144. A seat ('un posto', l-l'/2 fr.) may easily be obtained by a single traveller in one of the numerous carriages frequenting this road.

Mail Steamboat from Naples across the bay to Vico Eqvense, Meta, and Sorrento in l3/4 hr. (6 fr., 5 fr.) and thence via Massa to Capri ; comp. p. 152.

Those whose time is limited should make little stay at Castellammare, in order to arrive at Sorrento early enough for an excursion to the Deserto (p. 151), or other interesting point in the environs. The night should be spent at Sorrento, and Capri visited next day; Naples may then be regained on the third , or , if necessary , on the evening of the second day. — This route may also be combined with the following (p. 160). The steamboat trip across the Bay of Naples is so beautiful in fine weather that it should be made once at least.

The Castellammare train follows the main line to Salerno and Metaponto as far as Torre Annunziata, Stazione Centrale (see R. 6), where our line diverges to the right. Skirting the coast, it crosses the Sarno (on the right is the rocky islet of Revigliano, with an old castle) ; and in 12 min. it reaches the Castellammare station at the N. end of the town. — The line then again runs inland, reaching its terminus at(3M.) Gragnano, a little community, well known for its excellent red wine, and containing numerous manu- factories of maccaroni. About 2t/4 M. to the N.E. is Lettere, with

144 Route 9. CASTELLAMMARE. From Naples

a ruined castle. Carriage -road from Gragnano to Agerola, see p. 146.

Castellammare. — Hotels. Hotel Royal, in the main street, near the station, R.2Vs-4, L. »/4, A. "A. B- IVs, dej. 3V«, »• 5 (both incl. wine), pens. 8-11 fr.; Hotel Staeia, nearest the station and also on the quay, in the Italian' style, well spoken of, R. , L., & A. 3 , B. 1, dej. 2'/2, D. 5 (both incl. wine), pens. 7 fr. — Beautifully situated above the town, on the road to Quisisana, commanding a charming view of Vesuvius and the bay: ,:'H6tel Quisisana, on the left, frequented by the English, R 3-6 L. & A. I1/"- B. I1/2, dej. 3, D. 5, pens. (L. extra) 9-12, omnibus from station with "luggage I1/2 fr. ; Gean Beetagna , on the right. — *Geand Hotel Maegheeita, in the Villa Quisisana (p. 145), recently newly fitted up, 150 R., pens. 10-12 fr. — Pension Baker (Villa Calvanese), 5-7 fr. — 'Hotel & Pension Weiss (Villa Belvedere), on the hill to the E., near the station, with terrace, fine garden, and view, pens. (L. extra), 6 fr. daily. The road hence to Quisisana passes Scanzano.

Caffe deW Europa and Trattoria Villa di Napoli, both in the Largo Principe Umberto, which opens towards the sea, and where a band plays in the evening 1-3 times a week according to the season. — "Sail. Re- staurant.

Carriages. There is no difference in the charge whether the carriage be drawn by a horse or by a donkey ; carr. with three horses same charge as with tw0. — Tariff: drive in the town with one horse 35 c., with two or three horses 80 c. — Outside the town, not exceeding 2 kilometres (IV4 M.): first hour with one horse l1/* fr., with two horses 2V2 fr. ; each additional hour 1 fr. or 2 fr. 40 c. — To Quisisana 1 or 3 fr. ; to Gragnano 1 or 2l/z fr. ; to Pozzano 80 c. or 2'/2 fr.; to Lettere 1 fr. 85 or 3 fr. 65 c; to Pimonte 2 fr. 20 or 4fr. 70c; to Agerola 4 or 7 fr. ; Vico Equense IV2 or 272 fr-; to Meta 2l/i or 41/2 fr. ; to Sorrento 3 or 6 fr. (after 5 p.m. 372 or 7fr.); to Torre Annunziata or to Pompeii l'/2 or 3 fr. — The return-fare is generally the same as for the hither journey; but a definite arrangement should be made as to halts. On the shorter drives the carriage should halt V4-V2 hr. , on the longer drives 1-5 hrs. without extra charge. — Charges V2 more at night (10 p.m. to 6 a.m. from Nov. 1st to April 30th; other seasons, midnight to 4 a.m.).

Donkeys within a radius of 2 kilometres from the town, 60 c. for the first hr., 40 c. each hr. afterwards; to the top of Monte Coppola, 1 fr.

British Vice-Consul, J. Ashworth, Esq. — U. S. Consular Agent, A. M. Wood, Esq. — English Church Service in winter.

Castellammare, a busy trading and fishing town with 33,000 inhabl, lies in the E. angle of the Bay of Naples, at the beginning of the peninsula of Sorrento, at the base and on the slope of a spur of Monte S. Angela. It occupies the site of the ancient Stabiae, which was destroyed in A.D. 79, at the same time as Pompeii, and thence derives its official name of Castellammare di Stabia. It was here that the elder Pliny perished while observing the eruption (p. 114). Excavations of the ruins of Stabiae, which lay to the left, by the entrance to the town, towards the heights, have not been undertaken since 1782, and several villas then laid bare have been again covered with rubbish.

The town extends along the coast for upwards of 1 M., consist- ing of one main street and a second running parallel with it. About 1/3 M. from the station we reach the Largo Principe Umberto, a small piazza embellished with flower-beds and trees , where the Gaffe Europa is situated. Farther on we come to the animated Harbour, which is protected by a molo. Adjoining it is an Arsenal

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to Sorrento. CASTELLAMMARE. 9. Route. 145

with a dockyard. — On the hill to the S. of the town are the ruins of the Castle to which the town owes its name. It was built in the 13th cent, by Emp. Frederick II. and strengthened with towers and walls by Charles I. of Anjou.

Castellammare is a favourite summer-resort of the Neapolitans. The attractions are sea-baths, mineral waters (impregnated with sulphur and carbonic acid gas"), and beautiful shady walks. In spring and autumn the numerous visitors are almost exclusively foreigners.

Turning to the S. by the Largo Principe Umberto, and ascend- ing the Salita Caporiva (inclining to the right after 5 min.), we pass the Hotel Quisisana and reach a winding road, shaded by fine chestnut-trees higher up, which leads to the —

Villa Quisisana (1 M.). This chateau (Casino), formerly royal, now municipal property, is fitted up as the Grand Hotel Margherita (p. 144). It occupies the site of a house erected here by Charles II. of Anjou about 1300, which was occupied by King Ladislaus and his sister Johanna II. while the plague raged at Naples. In 1820 Ferdinand I. of Bourbon restored the building and gave it its present name ('one recovers health here'). Charming view from the terrace.

The Bosco di Quisisana, or park belonging to the villa, which is open to the public, affords delightful walks. Following the road, we pass through a gate to the right, opposite the entrance to the Villa Quisisana, turn to the left at the first bifurcation (while the road in a straight direction goes to Pozzano, see below), and then pass behind the former garden of the villa , from which there is another entrance to the park. — Above , to the left , rises the * Monte Coppola, which may be ascended by beautiful wood-walks, winding upwards and crossing several ravines , and commanding admirable views of the bay and Vesuvius (there and back 2- 2'/2 nrs. ; donkeys admitted to the park). — The traveller may return from Quisisana to Castellammare by the shady and pictur- esque route via Pozzano (V2nr- longer; beginning indicated above), which passes the ruined castle of Frederick II. and the Anjou sov- ereigns. The monastery of S. Maria a Pozzano, founded by Gon- salvo da Cordova, is now unoccupied. Fine views.

The ascent of "Monte Paito (guide convenient) is an attractive excur- sion. The summit, reached in li/2-2hrs- via Quisisana and the Campo della Cepparica, commands a beautiful view of the dark olive-clad peninsula of Sorrento stretching into the sea , the islands of the Sirens (p. 173), and Capri. The Monte Sant' Angelo may be ascended in 2:/z hrs. from the Monte Faito.

"Monte Sant' Angelo, 4735 ft. above the sea-level, the highest point near the bay, commands a noble prospect , embracing the bays of G-aeta, Naples, and Salerno, and stretching from Monte Circello to the Punta Licosa and to the Abruzzi. The mountain is clothed to the summit with wood, chiefly chestnut-trees , and offers various points of interest to botanists. Fragments of pumice-stone (rapilli) from eruptions of Vesuvius are observed almost all the way to the top. — The ascent, which should not be attempted without a guide, requires 4-5 hrs. from Castellammare

Baedekeb. Italy III. 11th Edition. 10

146 Route 9. VICO EQUENSE. From Naples

(on donkey-back 3 hrs. ; donkey and guide 5 fr.; provisions advisable). The guides should be expressly directed to conduct the traveller to the highest peak crowned by the ruined chapel of St. Michael , which com- mands an uninterrupted panorama. Otherwise they ascend another peak, the view from which is partly intercepted by the higher summit. The last 1/z hr. must be accomplished on foot. The descent to Castellammare, either by the epols of Monte Coppola (see p. 145) , or via Pimonte (see below), or to Vico Equense (see below), takes 3 brs. The traveller should start early, so as to return to Castellammare before dusk. The excursion may also be made from Agerola, from Vico Equense, or from Sorrento.

From Gkagnano to Agekola, about 7'/2M., carriage-road. Gragnano, terminus of the railway from Naples and Castellammare to Gragnano, see p. 143. Carriages meet the trains (same charge as from Castellammare, see p. 144; 2l/4-21/2 hrs.). • — The road gradually ascends, winding round the Monte Pendolo, amid a luxuriant growth of vines, fig-trees, peach-trees, walnut-trees, and chestnut-trees. Higher up there are chestnut-woods alone. Beautiful retrospect of the Bay of Naples , Vesuvius and Monte Somma, and the plain as far as Nola. The iirst village of any size is (2'/2 M.) Pimonte (carr. from Castellammare, p. 144), whence we may visit the (20 min.) suppressed Dominican monastery of Belvedere (1770 ft.) or ascend to the 0/2 hr.) top of Monte Pendolo, which commands fine views. To the S. is the Monte S. Angelo (see p. 145). From Pimonte the road ascends between Monte Cretaro and Monte Lattaro (the ancient Monies Lactarii). The ascent to the top of the pass is obviated by a tunnel (V2 M.) through the crest of the mountain, lighted with lamps and often very muddy in wet weather. From the other end of the tunnel the road descends, amidst a flora gradually increasing in luxuriance as we advance, to Agerola. Beautiful views.

Agerola (about 2300 ft.) is a mountain hamlet, consisting of several 'frazionf or groups of houses. In the frazione of 8. Lazzaro (comp. the map, p. 164) is the "Albergo del Risorgimento (18 beds; pens. 6-8 fr.), with a view terrace. Various shady foot-paths are now being made; e. g. to the ruined Casiello Avitabile , which commands a splendid view of the Bay of Salerno and (to the W.) of Monte Solaro on Capri and the Punta di Campanella (p. 150); Salerno itself, Amalfi, and the places on the coast are not visible. A longer excursion is that to (IV2 hr.) Montepertuso, situated on a steep rock above Positano (p. 173), to which we may descend in s/4 hr. From S. Lazzaro we may descend, keeping always to the left, to (2 hrs.) Amalfi (p. 169), by foot-paths which reach the coast road from Positano to Amalfi (p. 173) at Vettica Minore.

The *Road prom Castellammake to Sorrento (10 M. ; on foot recommended; by carriage in l1/^ hrs., tariff, p. 144) is one of the most beautiful excursions in this delightful district. We pass below the monastery of S. Maria a Pozzano (see p. 145) to the Capo d' Orlando (Osteria)., Splendid *View. The three rocks on the coast are called / Tre Fratelli. We next reach (3 M.) —

Vico Equense (Hot.-Pens. d'Orient, R., L., & A. 2l/2, iej. 2% D. 3, both incl. wine, pens. 6-7, 2 pers. 10 fr.), a town with 12,000 inhab., situated on a rocky eminence, the ancient Vicus JEquenm. Vico was erected by Charles II. on the ruins of the ancient village, and was frequently visited by him. The Cathedral contains the tomb of the celebrated jurist Gaetano Filangieri (d. 1788). In the Villa Giusso are several modern works of art.

Beyond Vico the deep cutting of the river Arco is crossed by a bridge. On the right we next observe Marina di Equa, a village with a handsome campanile, beyond which the road ascends between vineyards and olive plantations on the slope of the Punta di Scutolo

to Sorrento. SORRENTO. 9. Route. 147

or Punta Oradelle. After having rounded this promontory, the road descends towards Meta, and the view changes. Before us stretches the famous Piano di Sorrento, a plain sheltered hy the surround- ing mountains, and intersected hy numerous ravines, remarkable for its salubrity and its luxuriant vegetation. Orange and olive groves, mulberry-trees, pomegranates, tigs, and aloes are beauti- fully intermingled. This has been a favourite retreat of the noble and the wealthy from a very early period. Augustus, M. Agrippa, Antoninus Pius, and others frequently resided here, and at the present day visitors of all nationalities are met with. The space is limited, and the villages are neither large nor handsome, but the district generally is pervaded with an air of peaceful enjoyment.

Meta (Trattoria Villa di Sorrento) is a town of 8000 inhab., with two small harbours. The modern church of the Madonna del Lauro, on the high-road, occupies the site of a temple of Minerva. (Route to Camaldoli di Meta, see p. 152.) The next part of the road is mostly shut in with walls (carriages easily obtained). The Ponte Maggiore leads across the deep ravine of Meta. We next reach Carotto, a large village, extending in nearly a straight line from the hills on the left to the Marina di Cazzano on the right. Then Pozzopiano, surrounded by beautiful orange-gardens, and lastly Sant' Agnello. Here, a little to the right of the road, Y4M. from Sorrento , is situated the Albergo della Cocumella on the beach (see below). The road then passes the (1.) Villa Guarra- cino and (r.) the Villa Rubinacci or Rotonda, traverses the long suburb, and soon reaches the Piazza of Sorrento.

Sorrento. — Hotels. !!La Sieena , Tramontano & Tasso, all three belonging to Signor Tramontano, situated between the small and the large Marina, on an abrupt rock rising from the sea; "Vittoria , charmingly situated above the small Marina (cabletramway), entered from the market- place, E. 3-4, (2 pers. 6-8), L. & A. I1/2, B. l'/2, dej. 3, D. 5, pens. 8-12 fr. — A little more to the E. of the small Marina, 'Hotel d'Angleterre (Villa Nardi), E., L., & A. 3, B. I1/4, dej. 2l/2, D. 4 (both. incl. wine), pens. 7 fr. (for a stay of some time 6 fr.); 400 yds from the market-place, "Hotel Grande Beetagne (Mrs. Lawrence), in the Villa Majo, E., L., & A. 2'/2, B. I1/4, dej. 2fr. 80, D. 4 fr. 80 c. (both incl. wine), pens. 6-8 fr.; a little farther on, Hot. -Pens. Lorelei (Villa Piccola Sirena), E., L. , & A. 2V2, B. 1, dej. 2V2, D. 3V2, (both incl. wine), pens. 7 fr. (for more than 2 days 6 fr.); Hotel Bristol (Villa S. Severina) closed at present. All these hotels , situated in gardens, have private stairs descending to the sea and small bathing-establishments (also warm baths), and command magnificent views of the bay. Previous enquiry as to charges had better be made. In summer a room towards the N. with a balcony and unimpeded view should be obtained if possible. — To the E. of the town, "Alb. della Cocumella (see above) in a quiet and picturesque situation, with good beach for bathing, pens. 6 fr. Villa di Sorrento, Piazza Municipio, E. 2, B. H/2 fr., well spoken of. — In the E. suburb: Villa Eobinaoci, Eosa Magra, both unpretending (rooms only at these). — Whole villas and furnished apartments may also be procured for a prolonged stay. (Information at the larger hotels.)

Restaurants. Villa di Sorrento in the Piazza (also rooms, pension 5-6 fr.); Unione, in the E. suburb, on the road to Meta, unpretending. — Gaffk Europa, in the Piazza; Oafe'-Reslaur. Be Martino, Corso del Duomo, 200 paces from the Piazza. — In the Piazza is also the Circe'.o di Sorrento,

10*

148 Route 9. SORRENTO. From Naples

a club with reading-room, etc., to which strangers are admitted gratis for a week (tickets at the hotels), per month 5 fr.

Sea-Baths on the Piccola Marina, 3/4 31. distant, 1/2 fr. — Physicians, Dr. Luigi del Majo, Dr. L. Galano (enquire at the Farmacia Finizio, Corso Duomo). Farmacia Astarita.

Carriages. The tariff for the morning is lower than that for the afternoon, so that charges should always be arranged before starting. — To Massalubrense with one horse lVi-2, with two horses 2-3, there and back 2-3 or 3-4 fr. ; to S. Agata via Massalubrense, twice as much; to Meta, V4-IV4 or l»/4-2»/4; to Vico Equense, l»/4-23/4 or 3*lz-&U, to Castel- lammare, 3-4</2 or 6-9 fr. — Two- horse carr. may be hired for 2 fr. the first hr. , and l'/2 fr. each additional hour. — To Prajano (p. 173; about 3 hrs\ drive), one-horse carr. 6-10, two-horse 10-15 fr. (more if hired at a hotel). Fees are in every case extra.

Donkey generally 1 fr. per hour; for excursions of 2-3 hrs. 2-272 fr., and trifling fee to attendant.

Boats (mostly at the Piccola Marina) I-I72 fr. per hour ; to Capri with 2 rowers 6-8, 3-4 rowers 12, 5-8 rowers 16 fr. ; to Castellammare about the same.

English Church Seevice, at the Hotel delle Sirena.

Bankek. A. Falangola (wine and fruit dealer, branch in Naples).

Silk Wares (in imitation of the Roman), Inlaid Wood ('tarsia'), and Wood Carving, are good and cheap at Sorrento. The tarsia work has lately become one of the staple products of the place ; and to encourage the industry a government Scuola a" Arte has been established in the old convent of S. Antonino, where orders of all kinds are executed. Other depots of these articles, which are well adapted for souvenirs and presents, are kept by Luigi Oargiulo & Figlio (also silk wares), in the Corso Principe Umberto; Michel Grandville, Strada del Tasso; Gius. Oargiulo & Co., in the same street. The oldest firm of silkmercers is Casola, in the Piazza; other good houses are the Fratelli Miccio, Strada del Tasso, Maresca ('Aux deux Passages'), on the road to Massa, etc.

Sorrento, surnamed lLa Gentile1, the ancient Surrentum and still called by the peasants Surient, a small town with 7500 inhab., and the residence of a bishop , lies amid luxuriant lemon and orange-gardens on rocks rising precipitously from the sea, and is enclosed on the other sides by deep ravines which popular super- stition has peopled with dwarfs (monacelli). The E. ravine, by which the traveller arriving from Meta crosses from the suburb to the Piazza, terminates in the Piccola Marina, or small harbour. The W. ravine opens into the Marina Grande, or large harbour, where there are numerous fishing-boats and a ship-building yard. During the middle ages Sorrento carried on a considerable trade, but its walls and towers have long since fallen to decay. Nothing remains of the Roman Surrentum, once rich in temples and villas, except some subterranean cisterns , with excellent spring-water, which have defied the lapse of time, and a few fragments and sub- structures, which have been dignified with pretentious names.

Torquato Tasso, the poet (b. 1544, d. at Rome 1595), was a native of Sorrento. A marble statue of the poet has been erected in the Piazza. The house in which he was born, with the rock on which it stood, has been swallowed up by the sea. The residence of his attached sister Cornelia, however, is still pointed out (Pal. Ser- sale, .Strada S. Nicola), where, after a glorious but chequered career, he was received by her, disguised as a shepherd, in 1592.

to Sorrento. SORRENTO. 9. Route. 149

In winter, spring, and autumn, Sorrento is visited almost ex- clusively by foreigners, chiefly Americans and English. Its cool northern aspect admirably adapts it for a summer-residence, and it is then frequented by both Italians and foreigners during the bathing -season. Visitors generally bathe in the morning, devote the hot part of the day to the 'dolce-far-niente' , make short excursions in the beautiful environs late in the afternoon , and after sunset lounge in the Piazza listening to the band. — An aqueduct, opened in 1892, supplies the town with excellent drinking- water. — The small Giardino Pubblico, opposite the Hotel Tra- montano, commands an unimpeded view of the sea. — A walk in the fine avenue beside the old city -wall is recommended. We reach the avenue by turning to the le.ft at the end of the straight street leading from the piazza past the Cathedral, at the entrance of which are several ancient bas-reliefs and inscriptions. — As most of the neighbouring roads run between high garden walls, and are very dusty in summer, there is a great lack of walks.

Excursions by Boat are very pleasant. Thus (there and back in 172-2 hrs., with one rower 3 fr.) to the Punta di Sorrento, at the W. end of the bay, opposite the Punta di Scutolo (p. 146) to the S.W., passing between cliffs where remains of Roman masonry, baths, and a so-called temple of Hercules are visible. The traveller should not omit to row into the large ancient piscina , now called Bagno delta Regina Oiovanna. The name of the adjacent hamlet of Marina di Puolo recalls the magnificent Villa of Pollius Felix, described by Statius , the poet. A trip by boat to Meta (p. 147), where there are several fine grottoes in the lofty cliffs of the coast (il Pecoriello, la Piccola Azzurra, etc.), may be made in the same time and at the same cost.

The **Road to Massalubkknse (21/2 M.) , like that from Castellammare , of which it is a continuation , commands a series of beautiful views. It is frequented in the evening by numerous carriages, riders, and walkers. A few hundred yards beyond the last houses of Sorrento it crosses the ravine of La Conca by a bridge. To the left, ^4 M- farther, the 'Strada Capodimonte', a paved bridle-path, ascends to the left; we diverge to the right at the second bend and in 7 min. reach the Capodimonte , a famous point of view. The road, however, which skirts the base of the Capodimonte, commands retrospectively nearly the same prospect. The road then ascends to the Capo di Sorrento, whence we may de- scend in 10-12 min. to the Punta di Sorrento, or in about the same time to the Bagno della Rpgina Giovanna (see above). About l3/4 M. from Sorrento we reach Villnzzano , a group of houses at the foot of the telegraph hill (p. 151), which the road makes a bend to avoid. A magnificent view towards Capri is now suddenly dis- closed. On the right is the rocky islet of Vervece. About 3/4 M. farther we reach —

150 Route 9. SORRENTO. Punta di Campanella.

Massalubrense [Alb ergo di Massa, tolerable ; Restaurant Minerva, at the entrance, well spoken of, a small town of 8500 inhab., over- shadowed by the castle of S. Maria, to which the Via Pozzillo ascends (a boy had better be hired as guide]. The key of the view-tower is obtained at one of the houses (small fee). On the coast are the remains of a Roman aqueduct and other antiquities ; but no traces now remain of the temple of the Sirens , which enjoyed a wide reputation in antiquity. The church of S. Francesco is said to occupy the site of a temple of Juno. On 15th Aug. a festival which attracts the inhabitants of the whole neighbourhood is celebrated here annually. • — Boats and carriages for the return to Sorrento are generally to be found here; also boats for the passage to Capri (cheaper than at Sorrento). — The road, making a curve round the Monte S. Nicola, ascends to S. Agata (about 272 M. ; see p. 151).

From Massalubrense we may proceed in 3/* hr. by S. Maria to the village of Termini (Osteria), at the foot of the Monte S. Costanzo (1470 ft.), the highest point of the outer part of the peninsula (a fine point of view ; ascent somewhat fatiguing ; a hermit at the top). Beyond Termini the road gradually des- cends to the Punta di Campanella (155 ft.), the extremity of the peninsula, l3/4 hr. from Massalubrense. This was the ancient Cape of Minerva, sonamed after a temple said to have been erected here by Ulysses in honour of that goddess. The promontory owes its modern name to the bells of one of the watch-towers erected along the coast by Charles V. as a pro- tection against pirates. So lately as the beginning of the 19th cent, numerous inhabitants of the Italian coast were carried off as slaves by the Barbary pirates. From this bare and lonely rock, which is crowned with a Lighthouse and overgrown with olives and myrtles, we enjoy a magnificent distant view of the sea, the coast, and the island of Capri, 3 M. distant. Beyond the lighthouse are considerable remains of a Roman villa. (Donkey from Massa for the entire excursion about 5 fr. — Those who make the excursion from Sorrento to the Punta Campanella should allow for it 7-8 hrs. in all.)

From Termini the traveller may descend to the S. to Nerano and the Marina del Canlone, whence the ruins of Crapolla, 2 M. to the E., may be visited by boat. On this trip we obtain a beautiful view of the three Islands of the Sirens, also called 1 Galli (p. 173). At the landing-place of Crapolla we observe remains of a wall with a fountain in the centre, and traces of an aqueduct; higher up the hill are the ruins of the monastery and early-Romanesque basilica of S. Pietro, the eight marble and granite columns of which are probably derived from some ancient temple. Good walkers may ascend from this point to S. Agata (see p. 151) and return thence to Sorrento.

The Heights above Sorrento afford many fine points of view, the paths to which are generally steep, narrow, and viewless, and most conveniently reached on donkey-back. Walking is, however, not unpleasant in the cool season.

A very favourite point is the Deserto , I74-IV2 hr. from the Piazza of Sorrento. The carriage - road leads by Massalubrense and S. Agata (see p. 151 ; carriages, p. 148). Walkers and riders leave the Massa road, and ascend to the left by the Strada Capodi- monte (p. 149). Beyond the second bend we hold to the left (to the right to Opodimonte, see p. 149). Farther on (10 min.) we avoid the ('rocoviaroad to the left and go straight on between garden- walls. In yt hr. we turn to the left to Priora, which we reach after an

Telegrafo. SORRENTO. 9. Route. 151

ascent of 5-10 min. , we now pass through a vaulted passage, go straight on across the Largo Priora, the small piazza in front of the church , turn to the right opposite the Campanile (and again to the right), and follow the paved path. The red building on the hill be- fore us is the Deserto, 35-40 min. from Priora. — The *Deserto is a suppressed monastery , in which an establishment for destitute children has recently been fitted up by monks. In return for the re- freshments offered to visitors, a contribution to the funds of the in- stitution is expected. The roof of the building commands a charming prospect of both bays, and the island of Capri ; in front of the latter rises the hill of S. Costanzo p. (150), to the left of which is the solitary little church of 8. Maria della Neve. — From the Deserto we may return by the village of S. Agata (*Pens. Bourbon-Brand- meyer, 6 fr., with restaurant), a picturesque summer-resort, 3/4 M. to the S.E. The church contains a high- altar of inlaid marble. An important festival is celebrated here on August 15th. A new carriage-road, commanding fine views, leads from S. Agata to Massalubrense (p. 150). The descent to Sorrento through the beautiful chestnut wood of La Tigliana is very steep.

Another interesting excursion is to the Telegrafo (785 ft.), a somewhat steep hill, on which there used to be an optic telegraph communicating with Capri, 2y2 M. to the W., and which com- mands an admirable view. We may ascend either from Villazzano in 20-25 min. (p. 149; 2y2 M. from Sorrento; boy as guide through the woods 40-50 c), or by following the route to the Deserto as far as the point where the road to Priora diverges to the left (1/2 hr.). From that point we proceed in a straight direction to (10 min.) a guard-house of the Uffizio Daziario of Massalubrense, about 30 paces beyond which we enter the second gate on the right leading through the yard of a cottage (2-3 soldi). In 6 min. more the path leads in a straight direction to the telegraph. — At the foot of the hill lies the *Valle delle Pigne, which derives its name from a number of handsome pines. The view of Capri hence is justly celebrated. Quails are captured here and in other parts of the peninsula of Sorrento, and in the island of Capri, in large numbers in May, June, September, and October, affording considerable profit to the inhabitants.

An admirable survey of the Piano di Sorrento is afforded by the *Piccolo S. Angelo (1460 ft.), iy2 hr. to the S.E. of Sorrento. The route ascends from the Piazza of Sorrento along the E. margin of the E. ravine, passing Cesarano and Baranica. At the top is a deserted oottage. From this point we ascend slightly to the S., then follow the footpath leading through woods to the right, along the slope of the Tore di Sorrento, to (I-IV2 nr-) S. Agata (see above). Picturesque views below us all the way.

The Conti delle Fontanelle, a chain of hills adjoining the Piccolo S. Angelo to the S.E. and commanding a survey of the bays of Naples and Salerno, may be reached from Sorrento in l]/2 hr. by a path which diverges

152 Route 9. CAPRI. Steamboats.

to the right from the Meta road at the white summer-house of the Villa Cacace , between the villages of Pozzopiano and Carotto. We may ascend to the W. to the Telegrafo di Marecoccola , which is an admirable point of view.

Above Meta (p. 147) lies the suppressed monastery of Camaldoli di Meta, now a country-seat of the Conte Giusso, commanding an excellent view. It is reached in 21/t hrs. from Sorrento: dusty road to Meta 31/4 ST. (carriage in 20-25 min., 3/t fr.). At a large red house we turn to the left into the lane called Vico Albert and ascend to an olive-grove and (1 M.) the church of Alberi. Then we turn to the right and reach ('/a M.) the Villa Oivsso-Aslapiana, where the best point of view is the rondel in the E. part of the park, about '/* ^- from the entrance. As the view is finest towards sunset, the excursion should not be made at too early an hoar (gardener Vz-l fr.).

A fatiguing but interesting excursion is the ascent of the Vico Alvano (2105 ft.) , the path to which also diverges from the Sleta road by the Villa Cacace (see above). It then crosses the heights of the Conti di Gere- menita. (From Sorrento, there and back, 6-7 hrs., with guide.)

We may also walk in 2 hrs. via, Meta, Arbore. Fornacelle, and Preazzano to the village of S. Maria a Castello, where from a projecting rock a view is obtained of Positano , 2000 ft. below , to which a path descends in steps. On 15th Aug., the occasion of a great festival at Positano (comp. p. 173), many visitors ascend from Sorrento to S. Maria for the sake of seeing the illumination below.

Capri.

Comp. Map, p. 144.

As the trips of the steamer are neither very regular nor punctual (the weather, number of passengers, etc., often deciding the question), enquiry on this subject should be made at the hotels, or, better still, at the shipping offices. It should also be observed that when the wind is in the E. or N. the Blue Grotto is not accessible — a fact, however, which the captain of the steamer is careful not to mention. On windy days, moreover, the roughness of the water is apt to occasion sea-sickness. — Unless the traveller is much pressed for time, he should not attempt to crowd the excursion into one day, as, in addition to the Blue Grotto, he will barely have time to visit the Villa of Tiberius. The view from the latter, moreover, is far less attractive in the middle of the day than by evening light. One whole day at least should be devoted to the island, and besides the above two chief attractions, the Punta Tragara, Anacapri, and Slonie Solaro should be visited, or a sail taken round the island.

From Naples to Capri. JIail Steamer (via Vico Equense, Meta, Sorrento, and Massalubrense) of the Societa Napoletana di Navigazione (office, Marina Nuova 14) ply to Capri daily, weather permitting, leaving the Immacolatella (PI. G, 5; p. 38) at 3.30 p.m. (in winter 2 p.m.), and returning from Capri early in the morning. Another Steamboat of the same company leaves the harbour beside the Castel dell' Ovo (PI. F, 7; p. 34) daily at 9 a.m., touches at Sorrento (l3/4 hr.), and proceeds direct to the Blue Grotto, weather permitting. After visiting the latter, the passengers are conveyed to the Marina of Capri, arriving about 12 or 12.30. The vessel starts again about 3 p.m. and reaches Naples about 6 p.m. Fare to Capri 6 fr. (from Sorrento 5 fr.); return -ticket, available for three months , 10 fr. Embarcation and landing at Naples and at Capri 20 c. each person; boat into the Blue Grotto, see p. 153. — A small Local Steamee (Con-tere di Capri) also plies between Naples and Capri when the weather allows, leaving Capri on Mon. & Frid. at 10 a.m. and Naples (Immacolatella; PI. G, 5) on Tues. & Sat. at 2 p.m. (single fare 3 fr. first- class, return available for a week, 5 fr.).

From Sorrento to Capri. Mail Steamee, see above. By Small Boat the passage takes 2-2V2 hrs. (fares, see p. 148). A four-o;red boat for the excursion to Capri and Amalfi costs 30-40 fr., the night being spent at Capri. Fom Massalubnnse to Capri, see p. 150. Boat from Capri to

Hotels. CAPRI. 9. Route. 153

Amalfl (4-5 hrs.), with 2 rowers 12, 4 rowers 18, 6 rowers 25 fr. (bargaining necessary). Fine weather is indispensable, but a perfect calm is neither necessary nor desirable.

The Marina Grande (p. 154), or chief landing place, is on the N. side of the island ; when a strong N- wind is blowing, steamers anchor at the Marina Piccola (p. 155) on the S. side. The ascent from the latter can only be made on foot. Order is now tolerably well maintained at the landing- place at Capri. Boat from steamer to landing-place 20 c. One soldo is sufficient payment for assistance rendered to passengers on landing ; a few coppers may also be thrown into the water fer the boys to dive for.

Hotels in Capri (often very full, so that is advisable to secure rooms beforehand). On the Marina: "^Hotel Bristol, dependance of the Quisi- sana, at the quay, R. 2-3, L. l/-z, A. i/2, B. iy4, dej. 3, D. 4, pens. 6-9 fr.; Grande Bretagne, with terrace and sea-baths, R., L., & A. 2Vz, B. 1, dej. 2'/2, D- 4 (both inel. wine), pens. 6 fr. ; Bellevue, R., L., & A. 2, B. 3A, dej. 2V2, D. 3 (both incl. wine), pens. 6 fr. ; these two also close to the landing-place. — Admirably situated a little to the W. of the landing-place, with terraces: *Grotte Bleue, R., L., & A. 2-3, B. 1, dej. 3, D. 4 (both incl wine), pens. 6 fr., with sea-baths; Louvre, Berliner Hof, R,L., & A. 2-3, B. 1, dej. 3, D. 4'/2 (both incl. wine), pens. 6-7 fr. — Higher still, on the road to Capri: 'Schweizerhof, dependance of the Quisisana (see below), same charges as Hotel Bristol. — In the Town of Capri: "Quisisana (omnibus at the quay), on the way to the Certosa (see p. 155), R. 2-3, L. 1/2, A. 1/2, B. IV2, dej. 3, D. 472, omn. 3/i (with luggage IV4) fr. ; Pagano, on the road to Quisisana, frequented by Germans, plain, pens. 6, for less than three days, 7 fr. (numerous reminiscences of artist-guests ; the garden contains a handsome palm-tree); Continental, R., L., & A. V/2, B. 1^4, dej. 3, D. 4>/2 (both incl. wine), pens. 6-8 fr. ; *H6tel de France, to the left of the Piazza, on the way to the Tiberio, with S. aspect and small garden, R., L., & A. 2, B. 1, dej. 2, D. 3 (both incl. wine), pens. 6 fr. (less than three days 7, from June to Dec. 51/2-61/2fr.), well spoken of; Faraglioni, in a side-street to the right of the road to the Tiberio, near the Hot. de Frrnce, R. 2l/z, B. 1, dej. 2>/2, D. 31/2 (both incl. wine), pens, for a week or more 6-7 fr. daily. — "Busetti (with Restaurant), Corso Tiberio, unpretending.

Cafe-Restaurants. "Cafi Hidigeigei, good and moderate (German beer, groceries, paper, etc.; agency for furnished rooms; propr. Morgano); Caffl al Vermouth di Torino, in the Piazza, a favourite resort. — Confectioner: Pasiicceria Califano, in the Piazza (English spoken). — Furnished Apart- ments numerous and cheap (from 30 fr. per month, including breakfast) both in Capvi and Anacapri. — Physicians : Dr. J. Cerio, Dr. Oiov. Masotino, speak English and French; physicians at Anacapri see p. 157.

Carriages. From the Marina: to the town of Capri with one horse l'/2 fr., there and back, with stay of 1 hr., 2!/2 fr. ; with two horses, 3 and 4 fr. ; to Anacapri, with one horse, 3 fr., there and back, 4 fr., with two horses, 5 and 6 fr. From the town of Capri to Anacapri, with one horse, IV2 fr., there and back, 21/? fr., with two horses, 3 and 4 fr.

Donkey from the Marina to the town of Capri 1, Horse I1/4 fr., in the reverse direction 3/4 or 1 fr. ; to the Villa di Tiberio and back 2'/2 or 3 fr. ; to Anacapri and back 2!/2 and 3 fr. ; to the top of the Solaro 4'/2 fr. ; from the town to Anacapri and back l'/2 and 2 fr. — Guides are quite unnecessary unless time is very limited. A boy to show the way may be engaged for several hours for V2-I fr-

Boats (bargaining necessary) about IV2 fr. per hour ; trip to the Blue Grotto, see p. 15S ; 'giro', or tour of the island (p. 159), 6-8 fr. To Sorrento, see p. 148; the hotels Quisisana and Pagano possess in common a very comfortable boat for 8 pers., which is hired for the trip to Sorrento with six rowers for 14 fr. ; boats with four rowers for smaller parties are also provided (8fr.). — Boat from the Marina Piccola, on the S. side of the island (see p. 155), to the Grotta del Arsenale or the Green Grotto and round the E. end of the island to the Marina, 4-5 fr.

English Church Service in winter.

Distances in Capri. From either Marina to the town, 20-c0 min.; from the Piazza in the town to the Villa di libtrio , 3/i hr. ; from the

154 Route 9. CAPRI. History.

Piazza to the Punia Tragara, 20 min. ; thence by the E. coast to the Area Naturale , 50 min. ; thence to the Villa of Tiberius, 50 min. The whole circuit from the Piazza to the Punta Tragara, Arco Naturale and the Villa, and back to the Piazza takes thus about 3hrs.. besides halts. The visit to Anacapri and Monte Solaro takes 3-4 hrs., there and back. All the different walks (upwards of 40) are described in Dr. Alan Wallers' little Handbook lo Capri (Naples, Furchheim, 1893).

Capri, the ancient Capreae, is a small, mountainous island of oblong form. Its picturesque outline forms one of the most charming points in the view of the Bay of Naples. The highest point is the Monte Solaro on the "W. side, 1920 ft. above the sea-level ; towards the E. huge cliffs, about 900 ft. in height, rise abruptly from the sea. The island, which contains about 4700 inhab. and the two small towns of Capri and Anacapri, yields fruit, oil, and excellent red and white wines in abundance. The indigenous flora comprises 300 species. The inhabitants support themselves partly by the pro- duction of oil and wine and by fishing, but by far the largest source of income is afforded by the strangers who visit the island yearly to the number of 30,000. The men frequently emigrate to South America, but generally return to Capri again. The women, who wear a tasteful veil of black lace , employ themselves mainly with weaving. Interesting popular festivals are held on the feast of S. Costanzo, the patron-saint of the island (May 14th), on the day of S. Antonio (June 13th; at Anacapri"), and on the 7th and 8th Sept. (in honour of the Virgin; on the Tiberio and Solaro).

The island first came into notice under Augustus, who showed a great partiality for it, and founded palaces, baths, and aqueducts here. Tiberius erected twelve villas, in honour of the twelve gods, in the principal parts of the island, the largest of which was the Villa Jovis (Tacit. Ann. iv. 37), after he had surrendered the reins of government to Sejanus and retired hither (A.D. 27). He remained here almost uninterruptedly till his death in 37, even after the fall of Sejanus in 31. Exaggerated accounts are given of the cruelty and profligacy of the emperor, even towards the close of his career. The tranquillity and inaccessibility of the island, as well as the geniality of the climate, were the attractions which induced him to spend so many years in it. Considerable remains of the buildings of Tiberius are still extant. In 1803 , during the Napoleonic wars , Capri was captured by the English under Sir Sidney Smith, fortified, and con- verted into a miniature Gibraltar. Sir Hudson Lowe was afterwards the commandant. In Oct. 1808, however, the island was recaptured by the French under Lamarque by a brilliant coup-de-main.

During the last 20-30 years Capri has become one of the chief attrac- tions to visitors to the Bay of Naples, not only in spring and autumn but also in summer, when many permanent foreign residents of Naples take up their temporary abode here. The island , indeed , is not seen in its full beauty except in summer.

From the Marina Orande , on the N. side of the island, where there are several hotels (p. 153), two routes ascend to the small town of Capri. Both are destitute of shade and are far from pleasant in the middle of the day. The shorter, but steeper path to the left (E.) ascends in steps. The winding carriage-road to the right (W.) passes 5. Cottan-.o, one of the oldest churches in S. Italy, with antique columns. It is a relic of the old town, abandoned in the 15th cent, on account of repeated inroads of pirates. Only a few

Punta Tragara. CAPRI. 9. Route. 155

other ruins recall the existence of this town, which occupied the site of the Marina.

Capri (460 ft.), the capital of the island, with 2800 inhah., lies on the saddle which connects the E. heights of the island (Lo Capo) with the western (Mte. Solaro), and is commanded by two lower hills (S. Michele and Castiglione), the first crowned with an- cient ruins, the second with a dilapidated castle. The road from the Marina Grande unites with that from Anacapri, and shortly afterwards comes to an end in the small Piazza , with the Municipio , the post and telegraph office , and the chemist's. A flight of steps ascends to the church of 5. Stefano. A small collection of paintings and sketches by artists living in Capri may be seen in the town (adm. 25c). — The route to the Marina Piccolo, is as follows: from the Piazza we follow the road to Anacapri for 7 min. , descend some steps to the right by the last house on the right, pass under the road by the arch to the left, and descend the stony path to the shore (1/4 hr.), where there are some fishers' huts (wine).

To reach the Castiglione (boy as guide and to obtain the consent of the owner), we ascend from the Piazza by the steps leading to the church (see above) and proceed in a straight direction to the Hotel Tiberio. Here we pass through the hotel and enter a vaulted passage to the right, lead- ing to the wall of the fortress. Beyond the church of S. Teresa we pass through another vaulted passage and then follow the path to (20 min.) a precipitous rocky slope below the castle. Splendid view of Capri and the Piccola Marina (still more extensive from the tower of the castle). The Orotta del Castiglione, on the S. side, is reached by a fatiguing series of stone steps. — For the ascent of the S. Michele a perrnesso must be obtained from its owner, Principe Caracciolo , who lives in the Villa Catarina, adjoining the Hotel Quisisana (easily obtained through the land- lord). The entrance is beside the little church of La Croce, on the way to the Tiberio. We here turn to the right and follow an ancient road, which formerly led to a Villa of Tiberius on the top of the hill. Extensive sub- structure sand vaults still exist below the vineyards. Magnificent view of the Marina Grande, the Solaro, the Gulf of Capri, and the Peninsula of Sorrento. At the foot of the S. Michele is another stalactite cavern; the keeper demands 1-2 fr. for torches, but a bargain should bemade.

Leaving the Piazza by a vaulted passage beyond the flight of steps ascending to the church of S. Stefano , then turning to the right, passing the Hotel Pagano, turning to the left again just be- fore reaching the Hotel Quisisana (the path straight on leads to the Certosa, founded in 1363, now a barrack), and skirting the sub- stantial Roman masonry of Le Camerelle (probably connected with the construction of a road through the valley), we are led by a path which ascends sligthly to the left about 400 yds. from the Quisi- sana to the (10 min. more) *Punta Tragara (Restaurant), the S.E. promontory. This point commands a picturesque view of Capri and the S. coast, with three precipitous cliffs called the Faraglioni. On the summit of II Monacone ('Great Monk'), farther to the E., are remains of a Roman tomb, and near the Punta are the remains of a Roman house exhumed in 1885.

A path leads hence to the Arco Naturale. From the Punta Tragara we descend the steps to the right of the 'Villa Tragara', and follow the good

156 Route 9. CAPRI. Villa di Tib erio.

Footpath (stone seats at intervals) along the slope, enjoying "Views of the Faraglioni and of the Polyphemus rock. The path , proceeding some- times by flights of steps, undulates round the Telegrafo or Tuoro Grande, a hill with an old optic telegraph and the remains of a villa of Tiberius on the top. At the gorge descending on the N. from this bill towards the sea , we turn inland , and in 50 min. from the Punta, at a group of houses, reach the path descending on the other side of the valley to the Arco Naturale (see below). The view of the E. coast from this path is still finer than that from the arch itself.

The N.E. promontory , called Lo Capo, is supposed to have been the site of the Villa Jovis, to which Tiberius retired for nine months after the fall of Sejanus (3/4 hr. from the town of Capri). The path cannot be mistaken. From the Piazza we pass to the left through the archway bearing the sign of the Hotel de France and follow first the Corso di Tiberio, the narrow main street of Capri , and then a paved track to (8 min.) a large ruined house from which a tall agave grows picturesquely (to the right the path to the Arco Naturale and the 'Telegrafo', see below). Our path passes between this ruin and the picturesque little church of S. Mi- chele, continues at the same level or slightly ascending, with a view of the chapel at the Villa of Tiberius above and of the old light- house, and at length skirts the slope to the right. On the right, a few minutes before reaching the last hill, we pass a clean tavern [good Capri 1^4 lr. per bottle) called 'Salto di Tiberio', after the rock (745 ft. above the sea) from which, according to a purely mythical story, the tyrant precipitated his victims. A projecting platform with a railing affords a view of the sea below. A good idea of the height of these rocks may be gained by dropping a stone over the railing and noting the time it takes to fall into the sea. — To the right are the remains of an ancient Lighthouse (View). The Tarantella dancers who usually present themselves here expect Vo-l fr. for their exhibition.

After a slight ascent we reach the *VilIa di Tiberio (pronounc- ed Timlerio by the natives), part of the extensive ruins of which are now used as a cow-house. They consist of a number of vault- ed chambers and corridors , the uses of which cannot now be as- certained. On the highest point is the small chapel of S. Maria del Soccorso (1050 ft.), with the cell of a hermit, who offers wine and for a trifling donation allows the visitor to inscribe his 'testimonium prjesentiae'. This point commands a noble prospect of the island and the blue sea, of the barren Punta di Campanella opposite, and the two bays; even Peestum and the Ponza Islands (to the N."W.) are visible in clear weather.

In returning we take the path which diverges to the right by the ruined house with the agave (see above; 20 min. from the Salto di Tibe- rio) ; we then cross gardens and fields in the same direction as the tele- graph wires. In 10 min., at a group of houses, we reach the upper end of the gor^e mentioned ;ibove, in which ends the path from the Punta Tragara round the E. side of the Telegrafo. To the left in this valley, 8 min. farther, and reached by a path which is rather rough towards the end, rises the "Ar^o Naturale, a magnificent natural archway in the rock,

Anacapri. CAPRI. 9. Route. 157

where we obtain a striking view of the imposing and ragged cliffs. A visit to the Qrotta di Micromania, to which 180 steps descend, may be combined with this excursion (we retrace our steps for 4 min. , then descend to the left to the steps, passing through some small gardens). This grotto contained a shrine of Mithras, the 'unconquered god of the sun', whose cult was introduced to Rome from the East, and in the time of the later emperors spread through all the provinces of the empire. Roman remains may be seen in the cave. — Returning to the above-mentioned group of houses , we may thence reach the Punta Tragara by the foot- path mentioned on p. 156.

From Capri to Anacapri (20 minutes' drive ; s/i hr. on foot). A road in long windings hewn in the rock, constructed in 1871, now supersedes the flight of 535 steps (to the foot of which 249 more ascended from the Marina) which used to form the chief ap- proach to the higher parts of the island. This road commands beautiful views. Above it rise the ruins of the mediaeval Castello di Barbarossa, named after the pirate who destroyed it in the 16th century.

Anacapri. — Hotels. Hotel Eden, a new house, opened in summer 1893, pens, with R. 10 fr., omnibus 1 fr. ; Pakadiso, in the Piazza, near the church, R. l-l'/2, B. 1fe, dej. 2, D. 2 both incl. wine), pens. 5 fr., with garden and view, unpretending; Convento, in a suppressed monastery, saidto be comfortable and to command line views, but not much frequented. — Trattoria, with the sign ReHaurant-Bottiglieria, at the beginning of the village. — Furnished Booms in several houses.

Psysicians, Dr. 6reen; Dr. Cuomo; Dr. Axel Munthe, a Swede.

Anacapri (880 ft.) , the second little town in the island , with 2000 inhab., is scattered over the lofty plain which slopes towards the W., and has recently become a favourite summer residence for German visitors and others. The first house on the road, to the left , outside thevillage, is the Villa Molaro,now converted into a hotel (Eden Hotel, see above). On the right side of the street, in the village, adjoining the house of the wine-merchant Moll, is an old convent (now an hotel, see above), with a handsome court and the church of 8. Michele, containing a majolica pavement of the 17th century. The tower of the church of S. Sofia commands a fine view. — Adjoining Anacapri is thepleasant village of Caprile.

A beautiful walk may be taken to the "Migliera. We follow the lane to the E. of the Paradiso Hotel for 250 paces, towards Jlonte Solaro, the base of which is skirted by a dry path leading in '/s hr. to the S. verge of the plateau (fine view). About 200 paces higher up, the view is open as far as the Faraglioni. On the return we enjoy a good survey of the picturesque villages of Anacapri and Caprile, whose houses have almost an Oriental appearance. — There are Roman ruins at the village of Damecuta, on the N.W. side of the plateau, where a villa of Tiberius once stood.

The * Ascent op Monte Solaro (1 hr.) is recommended to toler- able walkers. The route is easily found. We quit the road imme- diately beyond the garden of the Villa Molaro (see above), and follow the lane on the left (as we come from Capri) past the Villa Massimo to the Villa Qiulia. (Here is the junction of a path from the Restaurant-Bottiglieria, see above.) We turn to the left and ascend for 30 paces to the right, by the wall of the villa-garden, to the

158 Route 9. CAPRI. Blue Grotto.

iath along the slope, which we follow towards the S.E. Farther m we pass through a hollow and ascend by steps supported by nasonry to (_l/.> hr.) a saddle with a shrine of the Madonna (lefc). from this point we may proceed to the right direct to the summit, vhich we reach after a fatiguing ascent of 15-20 min. over deTms. )r we may go on in a straight direction for 0 min. and then turn to he left to (2 min.) the white wall of the -Hermitage (1625 ft.), where projecting platform commands a most picturesque view of the own of Capri and the whole of the beautiful island. From the Her- nitage there are also 15-20 min. to the summit of the *Monte iolaro (1920 ft.), which rises abruptly from the sea, on the S. side if the island, and is crowned by a ruined fort. The view is superb, unbracing Naples with the whole of its bay, as well as that of lalerno as far as Paestum. Towards the N. the Bay of Gaeta is isible , and towards the W. the group of the Ponza Islands. The pectator also obtains a survey of the chain of the Apennines, bound- ng theCampanianplaininawide curve fromTerracina, theAbruzzi, he Matese Mts. (p. 10), and a long vista of sea and land extend- ng to the S. to the hills of Calabria. Capri itself and the pen- asula of Sorrento lie in prominent relief at the spectator's feet. ?he charm of this view is at its highest by moonlight or at sunrise.

BlUB GkottO. — A visit to the Blue Grotto from the Marina at iapri occupies l3/*"2 hrs. If the wind blows strongly from the E. or N., ccess to the grotto is impossible. The skiffs are not allowed to take lore than three passengers. The official tariff of the Municipio of Capri xes the charges as follows : a. Boat from the steamer into the grotto and ack, l'/4 fr. each person; 5. From the Banehina di Capri (Marina Grande) nd back, 1 pers. 2'A, 2 pers. 33/4, 3 pers. 4'/4 fr., 5 or more pers. l'/2 fr- ach. The hire of the small skiff entering the grotta is included in these harges ('Nei suddetti prezzi e compreso il noleggio del piccolo battello er Tentrata alia Grotta Azzurra, che percio andra a carico dei barca- loli'). The stay in the grotto is limited to l/t hr., and an extra charge f 30 c. is made for every 1/t hr. additional. When a boat is hired at the Carina the boatman should at once be referred to the tariff, as it is a ivourite practice to endeavour to make the traveller pay, in addition to le tariff-price, the charge of l*/4 fr. per head required by the manager at he grotto , when the large boat is exchanged for the skiffs entering the rotto. That extra charge is to be paid, as stated above, by the boatman ■om the Marina. Most travellers, however, must be prepared to bestow onsiderable gratuities.

The Blue Grotto is situated on the N. side of the island, about l/t M. from the landingrplace of Capri. The row along the base f the precipitous rocky shore is exceedingly beautiful ; the sur- ice of the water swarms with gaily-coloured sea-stars and jelly-fish, n l/i hr. we reach the ruins of the Baths of Tiberius, where a frag- lent of an ancient wall and partof a column in the water are to e seen, and in !/2 hr. more we arrive at the entrance of the **Blue ■rotto (Grotta Azzurra), which is scarcely 3 ft. in height. Visitors lust here leave the larger boat and enter one of the small skiffs rat are usually waiting at midday. In the interior the roof rises

Grotta Verde. CAPRI. 9. Route. 159

to a height of 41 ft.; the water is 8 fathoms deep. Length of the grotto 175ft., greatest width 100 ft. The effect of the blue refraction of the light on every object is indescribable, and at first completely dazzles the eye. The best light is between 11 and 1 o'clock; sum- mer is the bestseason. Objects in the water assume a beautiful silvery appearance. A boy usually offers to bathe in order to show this effect, and is sufficiently rewarded with 1 fr., although he generally makes the exorbitant demand of 2-3 fr. The visitor may then repeat the experiment with his own arm. Near the middle of the grotto, to the right, is a kind of landing-place, leading to a passage with broken steps, but closed at the upper end, once probably an ap- proach from the land to the grotto, which was perhaps connected with the villa of Tiberius at Damecuta. The grotto, which was known to the ancients, fell into oblivion in the middle ages, but since 1826, when it was re-discovered, it has justly been a favourite attraction.

Anacapri is reached by a tolerable path, beginning near the Blue Grotto.

The Blue Grotto is the most celebrated of the caverns with which the rocky shores of Capri abound, but some of the others are also well worth visiting. The *Giro , or Voyage round the Island, occupies 3-4 hrs. (boats, see p. 153). Steering from the Marina towards the E., we first reach a charming spot on the beach, called by the boatmen Caterla. Close by is the Orotta del Bove Marino, one of the most spacious caves in Capri. Farther on are two curiously shaped rocks in the sea, called II Fucile ('the mus- ket') and La Ricotta ('the whey-milk cheese'). Beyond Capo Tiberio we visit the Grotta delle Stalattite or Orotta Bianca , with its sta- lactite formations. The most striking part of the trip is at the Faraglioni (p. 155), which rise majestically from the water. The central clilr is undermined by an imposing archway, through which the boat passes, but not visible from the land. Rounding the Punta Tragara (p. 155), we next pass the Marina Piccola(p. 155) and in 25 min. more reach the Orotta Verde, at the base of the Monte Solaro, a cavern of a beautiful emerald-green colour, and the most interesting after the Blue Grotto (best light about noon). The voyage hence round the W. side of the island, past the lighthouse on the S.W. promontory and some old British fortifications , to the Blue Grotto is less attractive , but this cavern may now be visited as an appropriate termination to the excursion (in which .case a skiff for the grotto should be previously ordered to meet the traveller).

10. The Gulf of Salerno.

Comp. Map, p. 164.

The Bat of Salerno cannot indeed compete with the Bay of Naples ;

towards the S. its shores are flat and monotonous ; but the N. side, where

the mountains of the Sorrentine peninsula rise abruptly some thousands

of feet from the sea, is full of beauty and grandeur. Here are situated

160 Route 10. NOCERA. Gulf of

he towns of Salerno and Amalfi , conspicuous in the pages of mediaeval listory, and still containing a few monuments of their former greatness, farther S., in a barren, desolate situation, are the temples of Paestum, lsually the extreme point of the Italian peninsula visited by northern xavellers. All these recall the golden period of Greek history and art nore forcibly than any other localities in Italy.

This route may conveniently be combined with the preceding (p. 143) is follows: First Day: Morning-train to Cava dei Tirreni; excursion to jorpo di Cava (not recommended in cold weather); in the afternoon to Salerno. Second Day: Morning-train to Paestum; return to Salerno and irive to Amalfi (in this case the carr. must be ordered beforehand; if he return be made to Vietri, a carr. is always to be found at the station). Third Day: Amalfi; excursion to Eavello. Fourth Day: By boat to Prajano and drive (carr. ordered beforehand) across the hills to Sorrento the road to Prajano, however, will probably be completed about the end )f 1892). Fifth Day: By boat at noon to Capri. Sixth Day: Back to Naples by steamer in the afternoon. It need scarcely be added that most of hese places, especially Amalfi and Capri, will repay a longer visit.

Railway from Naples to Cava dei Tirreni, 28 M., in I1/4-274 brs. ; fares ) fr. 10, 3 fr. 60, 2 fr. 30 c. ; to Salerno, 34 M., in 11/2-21/2 hrs.; faTes 6 fr. .5, 4 fr. 30 , 2 fr. 75 c. (Vietri is the station for Amalfi) ; to Battipaglia, =5 M., in 2-33/4 hrs.; fares 8 fr. 25, 5 fr. 85, 3 fr. 75 c.

From Naples to Pompeii, 15 M., see R. 6. The train, after ruitting the Bay of Naples, traverses the fertile plain of the Sarno. Maize and tobacco are extensively cultivated here , and :otton is also grown. 15 M. Voile di Pompei (Hot. -Restaur. Nuova Pompei, in the piazza, dej. l1/^, D. 2,/2-31/2 fr., bothincl. wine; Trattoria Lamberti, at the station), a community that has suddenly sprung up within thelast twenty years around the church of 8. Maria lei Rosario, with, its conspicuous coloured dome. The church con- ;ains a miraculous image of the Virgin, which is visited annually jy 100,000 pilgrims. — 17 M. Scafati, with manufactories. Festi- val of the Madonna del Bagno on Ascension Day (see p. 28).

19^2 M. Angri, with large factories and the chateau and park of Principe dAngri. Teias, the last king of the Goths, was defeated by Sarses near Angri in 523, after having descended from Lettere on VIonte Sant' Angelo to the plain. A new mountain-road is being riade from Angri to Amalfi. — The district gradually becomes more mountainous, and the scenery is picturesque the whole way.

21 M. Pagani, with 13,000 inhabitants. In the church of 3. Michele, below the altar of a chapel to the left of the choir, ire preserved (under glass) the relics of Alphonso de' Liguori, born it Naples in 1696, bishop of S. Agata in 1762, and founder of the >rder of the Redemptorists, who died at Pagani in 1787 and was ;anonised by Gregory XVI. in 1839.

From Pagani to Amalfi. From Pagani a bridle-path ascends the W. lope of the Monte di Chiunzo. Shortly before Torre di Chiunzo (2250 ft.), -n ancient fortress erected by Raimondo Orsini , the road forks. To the eft a new road leads through the Val Tramonti 'between the mountains', 'ia Figlino and Patemo to Majori (p. 168); 5-6 hrs. in all.

22y2 M. No c era de' Pagani, a town of some importance with arge new manufactories, near the ancient Nuceria Alfaterna, where Iugo de' Pagani , founder of the order of the Templars, and the

Salerno. CAVA DEI TIRRENI. JO. Route. 161

painter Francesco Solimena were born, and where Paulus Jovius, the historian, was bishop. To the left of the line, above the exten- sive Capuchin monastery, rise the ruins of the ancient Castello in Parco, the scene of the death of Helena , widow of King Manfred, after the battle of Benevento (1266). At the close of the 14th cent, the castle was one of the principal strongholds of the house of Anjou. Fine view from the summit. Mater Domini, a pilgrimage- resort near Nocera, is the scene of an important festival on 15th August. — Nocera is connected with Codola (p. 175) by a branch railway (3 M., in about i/4 hr.; fares 60, 40, 30 c).

On the right, shortly before the train reaches the small village of (25 M.) Nocera Superiore, we observe the ancient baptismal church of 8. Maria Maggiore, similar to S. Stefano in Rome. The basin in the centre is surrounded by eight granite columns, enclosed by a circular passage with sixteen pairs of handsome columns of pavo- nazzetto with rich capitals, all antique. The walls are decorated with frescoes of the 14th century.

Beyond S. Clemente the line ascends considerably. On emerg- ing from a cutting the train reaches —

28M. Cava dei Tirreni. — Hotels. "Hotel de Londkes, well-man- aged but not faultlessly clean, often crowded in summer, though rather inconveniently situated, R. 3-5, L. 3/t, A. 1, B. I'/ij, doj. 3, D. 5, pens. (L. extra) in spring and autumn 10-12, in summer 6-8 fr. ; "Hot. Vittoeia, R., L., & A. 3'/2, B. 1, d<Sj. 3, D. 4 (both incl. wine), pens. 8, omn. 1 fr. ; Hotel de Geneve, R., L., & A. 3, dej. 2l/z, D. 3'/2 (both incl. wine), pens. 6 fr. ; "Pension Suisse, 5-6 fr. per day. — Good furnished lodgings.

Carriages. With one horse : drive in the town 50, first hr. 90, each hr. additional 65 c. (after 10 p.m., 90 c, 1 fr. 40, 80 c); with two horses 1 fr., 1 fr. 80, 1 fr. 30 c. (after 10 p.m. 1 fr. 80, 2 fr. 80, 1 fr. 80 c). — To Corpo di Cava, with one horse 2, there and back 3 fr. ; two horses, 3 and 5 fr. ; three horses, 5 and 6 fr. ; these fares include halt of 1 hr. ; for longer halt, one-horse carr. 1/2, two-horse 1 fr. per hr. — Donkey to Corpo di Cava IV2-2 fr., there and back 2-3 fr.

Cava dei Tirreni (980 ft. above the sea-level), situated among green hills dotted with villages, is a favourite resort of foreigners in spring and autumn and in summer of the Neapolitans, and a good centre for excursions to Amalft, Paestum, Pompeii, etc. The town (21,000 inhab., including the suburbs) mainly consists of a street i/a M. long, with arcades, leading from the station to the Piazza, where a church and a large fountain are situated. Adjoining is the Villa Pubblica (public garden), where a band plays on summer even- ings. — The best view of the town and its environs is obtained from the Monte Castello to the S. W. (there and back 1 hr.). From La Valle, a little farther on, Salerno and its bay are visible. — The slender round towers on the hills about Cava are erected for the capture of wild pigeons, which fly over the valley in huge flocks in October. As the flocks pass the towers, small white stones are thrown out, which the pigeons mistake for food; as they stoop to follow the supposed grains, they are caught by nets.

The attractive *Excursion to Corpo di Cava, l'/4 hr. to the

Baedeker. Italy III. 11th Edition. H

162 Route 10. . CORPO DI CAVA. Gulf of

S.W., takes Y2 day either on foot or by carriage. Leaving the Piazza we ascend the road to the left by the church. After 5 min., when the road turns to the right round the public garden, we ascend by the shorter path to the left by a church, and farther on between walls, past the red-painted tobacco manufactory, to the church and houses of 8. Arcangelo. Here we again quit the road, which goes to the right to Passiano, and follow the path to the left. It de- scends, crosses a ravine by a bridge, and again gradually ascends to the right, enclosed by walls, but a view is soon obtained of Cava dei Tirreni and of the Bay of Salerno. In Y2 hr. (from S. Arcan- gelo) we arrive at the church of Pietra Santa, so called from a rock in front of the high-altar, on which Pope Urban II. dismounted in 1095, when he consecrated the convent of La Cava; the church itself dates from the 17th century. Pine view. Beyond Pietra Santa we skirt the wood for 8 min. and reach the high-road, which soon afterwards crosses the viaduct to Corpo di Cava. Here the road di- vides, leading to the right to the village, and to the left (5 min.) to the monastery.

The village of Corpo di Cava (*Albergo Scapolatiello, with gar- den, pens. 5 fr. ; Albergo Adinolfi, both rustic) stands on the rock against which the monastery is built, above a beautiful narrow valley with several mills. The air is pure and the situation beauti- ful, so that visitors often make a prolonged stay here.

The famous Benedictine abbey of *La Trinita della Cava was founded in 1011 , in the time of Guaimar III. of Salerno, by St. Alferius, a member of a noble Lombard family, and stands above the cavern which the saint had previously occupied. It is now national property and is maintained like Monte Cassino, the abbot being keeper of the Archives. It contains a lyceum and boarding- school, patronised by the upper classes. The present buildings, dating from the 18th cent., stand partly on the old foundations.

Visitors are admitted in the forenoon and receive a guide, who first shows the rooms of the old convent, containing ancient mural paintings, the tomb of the anti-pope Gregory VIII. (1118-21), the skulls of numerous Lombard and Norman princes who were buried in the abbey, and the cave of S. Alferius. The Church (with two marble urns and the tomb of Queen Sibilla at the entrance) contains three large sarco- phagi of coloured marble with the remains of the first three abbots (chapel to the right of the highaltar) and a reliquary with the pectoral cross of Urban II. (see above). The pulpit with its mosaics (12th cent.) belonged to the old church. The organ is one of the best in Italy. — The Archives of the monastery (shown in the forenoon only) are of great value, and contain a number of important documents on parchment in uninterrupted succes- sion; the catalogue comprises 8 vols. Among the valuable MSS. are the Codex Legum Longobardorum of 1004, a prayer-book with miniatures of the school of Fra Angelico da Fiesole, the Latin Biblia Vnlgata of the 7th cent., etc. The small Pinacoteca, or picture-gallery, contains two fine altar-piece3 of the early Umbrian school (Resurrection and Adoration of the Magi), revealing the influence of Raphael.

"We may return by the Bonea, a grotto with a small waterfall.

A pleasant afternoon excursion may be made to the top of Monte S. Liberatore (1516 ft.), to the S.E. of Cava dei Tirreni, which com-

Salerno. SALERNO. 10. Route. 163

mands a magnificent *View. A road leads to a group of houses (Cafe') near the foot of the hill (carr. to this point and hack 5 fr.; bargaining necessary), whence we ascend, passing a venerable evergreen oak, to the summit, the last part of the way in zig

The train now traverses a beautiful district, and soon affoids a view of the Bay of Salerno ; in 10 min. it reaches —

30!/2 M. Vietri (Loc. Rosa , plain) , charmingly situated , with several villas. Pop. 9000. Above the town a promenade, com- manding beautiful views, has lately been constructed.

Passengers may alight here and take a carriage (drive of ■/« nr-) down to Salerno (2 fr. , single seat 1/2 fr.). The road descends, commanding a view of the sea, and aftords a pleasant walk. High above, along the rocks of Monte S. IAberatore to the left, runs the railway. Carriage to Amalfi (p. 169) less expensive here than at Salerno (a drive of 2-2V2 hrs. ; with one horse 3-4, with two 5-6, with three 9-10 fr., and fee of 1 fr.; one-horse carr. to Amalfi and thence to Salerno 6 fr. and fee of 1 fr.) ; diligence from yietri to Amalfi twice daily (forenoon and evening, returning early in the morning and at noon).

The railway, supported by galleries, and passing through four tunnels, the last of which penetrates the castle-hill, descends ra- pidly hence to Salerno.

34 M. Salerno. — The Railway Station lies at the E. end of the town, a considerable way from the principal hotels.

Hotels. "Hotel d'Inghilterra, Corso Garibaldi 34, with view of the bay, B., L., & A. 3y2, B. I1/4, dej. 3, D. 5 (both incl. wine), pens. 8-10 fr. ; Vittokia, Via Indipendenza 31, at the W. end of the town, some distance from the station, similar prices. — Albeego & Trattoria del Vesuvio, E. 3, pens. 5-6 fr.

Trattorie. "Genlrale, Corso Garibaldi 96, frequented by officers; Gontinentale, Corso Garibaldi 11; Roma, Corso Garibaldi 8, unpretending and moderate, good red wine. — Cafes. Several on the Corso Garibaldi.

Sea-Baths near the Marina, similar to those at Naples (p. 24).

Carriages. From the railway to the town with one horse 50 c, with two horses 1 fr. ; at night 70 c. or IV2 fr. ; one hour 1 or 2 fr., at night IY2 or 2'/2 fr. — For drives in the neighbourhood a previous agreement should always be made. To Amalfi with one horse 6-8, with two horses 8-10 fr. — Single travellers may avail themselves of one of the swift but •uncomfortable corricoli (two-wheeled , rustic vehicles ; the driver stands behind the passenger) , but a stipulation should be made that no second passenger be taken up by the way; to Amalfi (tutto compreso), according to circumstances 2>/2-4 fr.

Rowing or Sailing Boat (according to bargain) 1-1 1/2 fr. per hour; to Amalfi 8-10 fr., according to the number of rowers.

English Vice-Consul, Signor Pio Consiglio.

Popular Festival on the eve and day of St. Matthew, 20th-21st Sept., with fireworks and illumination, which are best seen irom a boat (4-5 fr.).

Salerno , the ancient Salernum , delightfully situated at the N. extremity of the bay, and bounded on the E. by fertile plains, is the seat of the local government and of an archbishop, and the chief residence of the numerous local aristocracy. Pop. 20,000, of the commune 31,200. The old town, rising on the slope of the so-called Apennine, with narrow and irregular streets, recalls the 9th and 10th centuries, when the Lombards occupied it, the 11th cent, when it belonged to the Normans, and lastly the period when the houses of Hohenstaufen and Anjou were

11*

164 Route 10. SALERNO. Gulf of

masters of the place , and when Salerno enjoyed the reputation of being the greatest medical school in Europe.

The quay, l'^lVL in length, called the Corso Garibaldi, affords a beautiful walk. Here is a large Theatre, with some flower-beds and clusters of trees adjacent. At the "W. end is the Harbour, recently protected against the encroaching sand by a large but deserted Molo. To the E. of the theatre is the post-office and the monument of Carlo Pisacana, Duke of S. Giovanni, 'precursore di Garibaldi', a Genoese, who participated in the attempts to revolu- tionise Italy in 1857, landed in Calabria, and perished while en- deavouring to escape. The large building between the two sentry- boxes, about 100 paces farther, is the Prefettura, past which a narrow street to the left leads to the —

*Cattbdbale S. Matteo, erected in 1084 by Robert Guiscard. The restoration of 1768 has deprived the edifice of much of its simple grandeur, but it still merits a visit. The steps ascend to an atrium, surrounded by twenty- eight antique columns from Psestum. In the centre formerly stood a granite basin which is now in the Villa Nazionale at Naples (p. 32). Along the walls are ranged fourteen ancient Sarcopkagi, which were used by the Normans and their successors as Christian burying -places. The bronze doors adorned in niello , executed at Constantinople, were given by Landolfo Butromile in 1099.

Inteeioe. Above the door is a large mosaic of St. Matthew, .of the Nor- man period. The Nave contains two ambones or reading-desks, and an archi- episcopal throne, richly decorated with mosaic by Giovanni of Procida, the foe of Charles of Adjou. In the N. aisle is the *Tomb of Margaret of Anjou (d. 1412), wife of Charles of Durazzo and mother of Ladislaus and Johanna II., by Baooccio da Piperno, with the painting almost intact. Opposite is the tomb of Bishop Nic. Piscicelli (d. 1471). The Cappella del Sacramento, at the end of this aisle, contains a Pieta by Andrea da Salerno, the composition of which is open to criticism. — On a large table in the Sacristy (in the N. transept) : Scenes from the Old and New Testament, on numerous carv- ed ivory tablets, perhaps of early-Christian workmanship. — The Choir con- tains a pavement and balustrade of Norman mosaic and two columns of verde antico. — In the South Aisle, at the end, is the tomb of Hildebrand, afterwards Pope Gregory VII., who died here on 25th May, 1085, after he had been banished from Rome by Henry IV. The monument was restored in 1578 by Archbishop Colonna; the statue and the frescoes are modern, and the mosaic in the dome has been restored. To the left is the monument of Arch- oishop Caraffa, adorned with a relief from Psestum : Rape of Proserpine. Farther on in the same aisle are tombs of a bishop and a knight, antique sarcophagi with Bacchanalian representations. — Here, beside an ancient relief representing a ship discharging its cargo , steps descend to the richly decorated Crypt , which is said to contain the remains of the Evangelist St. Matthew, brought from the East in 930. In front of a side-altar is the stump of a column, on which three saints are said to have been beheaded.

In S. Lorenzo some frescoes recently discovered under the whitewash are also ascribed to Andrea (Sabbatini) of Salerno, the most eminent Renaissance painter in S. Italy. Authentic works by this master, whose style reflects the influence of Raphael, may be seen in the churches of 8. Giorgio (Madonna with saints

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Salerno. PAESTUM. 10. Route. 165

and donors, dated 1523 ; 2nd altar on the right) and S. Agostino (Madonna with two saints, 2nd altar to the left; the SS. Augustine and Paul at the sides of the high-altar are school-pieces). Both these churches are situated between the Prefettura and the cathedral.

On the hill (900 ft.) lie the ruins of the ancient Castle of the Lombard princes, which was taken by Robert Guiscard after a siege of eight months. The view repays the ascent. Passing the cathedral we take the 'Salita del Castello' and turn to the right a little above the Carceri (prison) ; farther up, the path becomes steep ; at the top, 3/4 hr., is a cottage (fee,of a few soldi.)

A pleasant drive (2 hrs., carr. 4-5 fr.; railway in progress) may be taken from Salerno through the Irno Valley to S. Severino (p. 175), with which a visit to Monte Vergine (p. 175) may be combined. On the way we pass Fratte , the largest Swiss colony in Italy , with extensive manu- factories, and Baronisi, the scene of Fra Diavolo's capture.

The train as it proceeds affords a charming view of the bay and Capri to the right, and of the mountains to the left. — 39 M. Ponte- cagna.no; 44 M. Montecorvino.

45^2 M. Battipaglia, junction of the railway to Paestum and Pisciotta, see below.

Paestum.

The expedition to Paestum is most conveniently made from Cava dei Tirreni (p. 161) or Salerno, where the night before should be spent. It may also be accomplished from Naples in a single day, but the long and fatiguing railway- journey is a drawback in this case. In the interval between the arrival of the train from Naples (about noon) and the depart- ure of the next train in the opposite direction, the solemn stillness which usually hangs over the temples is rudely disturbed by numerous tourists. Those who desire to see the ruins under more favourable conditions, to examine details, and to make the circuit of the ancient town-wall, must either arrive by an earlier train or depart by a later one, it being ad- visable in the latter case to secure night-quarters at Cava or Salerno be- forei-and. — Admission to the temples on week-days 1 fr., Sun. free (ticket-office near the temple of Neptune). During the chief tourist- season, there is a fair buffet at the station, where also night-quarters may be obtained. It is better, however, to bring provisions, and lunch at the temples, on the town-walls, or on the beach.

Railway Fares. From Naples to Paestum, express - fares 11 fr. 55, 8 fr. 15, 5 fr. 30, ordinary fares 10 fr. 70, 7 fr. 50, 4 fr. 85 c, return-tickets 16 fr. 5, 11 fr. 30, 7 fr. 30 c. (on holidays, 12 fr. 5, 8 fr. 55, 6 fr. 5 a). From Cava dei Tirreni to Paestum, express 6 fr. 20, 4 fr. 30, 2 fr. 80 c, ordinary 5 fr. 60, 3 fr. 90, 2 fr. 55 c; from Cava dei Tirreni to Batti- paglia, return -ticket, 4 fr. 75, 3 fr. 30, 2 fr. 20 c. — From Salerno to Psestum, express 4 fr. 80, 3 fr. 45, 2 fr. 20 c, ordinary 4 fr. 55, 3 fr. 20, 1 fr. 10 C; return-ticket from Salerno to Battipaglia, 6 fr. 85, 4 fr. 80, 1 fr. 65 c. No return tickets are issued between Cava dei Tirreni or Salerno and Psestum; but travellers have time to secure one from Batti- paglia to Paestum for 3 fr. 65, 1 fr. 70, 1 fr. 5.

Battipaglia (se eabove) is reached by railway from Cava dei Tirreni in I-IV2 nr-> from Salerno in ^-^hr., from Naples in 23/4-33/4 hrs. — The Railway pbom Battipaglia to Ptestum traverses marshy plains, enlivened only by a few herds of buffaloes and other cattle. Agriculture , however, has been making some progress here of late

166 Route 10. P^ESTUM. History.

years, and the malaria is diminishing in consequence. — Beyond (3i/2 M.) 8. Niccolo Varco , the line crosses the impetuous river Sele, the ancient Silarus. Before the railway was built, this used to be considered the most dangerous part of the road, especially in 1860-70 , when the neighbourhood was haunted by the daring brigand Manzi. — 8'/2 M. Albanella; 11 M. Capaccio. — Shortly before reaching (13 M.) Paestum (Ital. Pesto), we catch sight of the corner of the old town-wall and of the temples behind. — The railway goes on to (16 M.) Ogliastro , the village of which name lies at a considerable distance to the left on the hill, (I8Y2 M.) Agropoli, and (42 M.) Pisciotta, whence the line is to be continued via Castrocucco (p. 207) to Gioia Tauro (p. 221).

Psestum, according to Strabo, was founded by Greeks from Sybaris about the year B.C. 600, and its ancient name of Poseidonia (city of Neptune) sufficiently indicates its Greek origin. In the 4th cent, the town was in possession of the Lucanians, who oppressed the inhabit- ants ; and at that period the citizens used to celebrate a festival an- nually in memory of their Greek origin and their former prosperity. After the defeat of Pyrrhus , Poseidonia fell into the hands of the Romans, who in B. O. 273 founded the colony of Paestum here. In the war against Hannibal the town remained faithful to Rome. At a later period it gradually fell to decay, and as early as the reign of Augustus was notorious for its malarious air. Christianity took root here at an early period. When the Saracens devastated Paestum in the 9th cent., the inhabitants fled with their bishop to the neigh- bouring heights, and there founded Capaccio Vecchio. In the 11th cent, the deserted town was despoiled by Robert Guiscard of its monuments and sculptures, and remained in this desolate condition for many centuries , till in modern times attention was again directed to the antiquities still remaining. Those who appreciate the simple majesty of Greek architecture should endeavour , if possible, before quitting Naples, to pay a visit to the temples at Paestum, which are, with the single exception of those at Athens, the finest existing monuments of the kind.

The railway - station is situated immediately to the E. of the ancient town. In the neighbourhood are the remains of an aqueduct and fragments of ancient paving. "We enter the town, which was surrounded by massive walls, through the Porta delta Sirena, so called from the small relief of a siren on the outer keystone of the archway. On the inner keystone is a scarcely recognizable relief of a dolphin. Proceeding thence along the wall enclosing the Villa Salati we reach the high road in 8 min., which traverses the an- cient town from N. to S. Here suddenly opens the view of the ruins : to the left are the temple of Neptune and the so-called Basilica, and to the right the temple of Ceres. The keeper awaits the visitors at the temple of Neptune (adm. see p. 165).

The largest and most beautiful of the three temples is the so-

Temple of Neptune. VJE8TWI. 10. Route. 1 67

called **TempIe of Neptune, 63 yds. in length, and 28 yds. in width. At each end are six massive, fluted Doric columns, 28 ft. in height; on each side twelve, in all thirty-six columns of 7^2 ft. in dia- meter, all well-preserved. In the interior of the Cella are two series of seven columns each (about 6 ft. in diameter), with a second row of smaller columns above, which supported the roof. On the S. side 5, and on the N. side 3 columns are still standing. The stone is a kind of travertine, to which age has imparted a mellow tone. It con- tains fossil reeds and aquatic plants. The whole was once covered with stucco, in order to conceal the imperfections of the stone. The proportions of the symmetrically tapering columns, whether viewed from the vicinity or from a distance, are perfect. This temple, as its whole character betokens , is one of the most ancient specimens of Greek art. Photographs and models of it are frequently seen (comp. Introd., p. xxix). A stone basis in front of the E. facade probably belonged to a large sacrificial altar.

A little to the S. rises the second temple, the so-called *Basi- lica (a misnomer), of more reoent origin, but also of great an- tiquity. It is 60 yds. in length, and 26^2 yds. in width, and its fifty columns are each 6!^ ft. in diameter, but its proportions and colouring are less imposing than those of the temple of Neptune. At each end are nine columns , and on each side sixteen, all of travertine stone. The shafts of the columns taper upwards in a curve ; the capitals are of a peculiar form not elsewhere met with. A series of columns in the centre, by a singular arrangement, di- vided the temple into two halves, so that it contained two 'cellae'.

In front of these temples probably extended the Forum of the ancient town , basements for altars or statues being still distinguishable here.

Farther N. stands the small * Temple of Ceres, or of Vesta according to others, with a peristyle of thirty-four columns, six at each end, and eleven on each side. Length 35 yds., width 15 yds. ; columns 5 ft. in diameter, tapering upwards in straight lines. The columns of the vestibule are distinguished from those of the principal part of the structure by the difference of the fluting. This temple is of somewhat later date than the others, but is also a fine example of the simple and majestic Greek style.

The temples are overgrown with a luxuriant crop of ferns and acanthus, enlivened by grasshoppers, lizards, and a few snakes.

Between the Temple of Ceres and that of Neptune a few frag- ments of Roman building have been discovered, a Theatre and Amphitheatre, it is believed. The latter is intersected by the road. A Roman Temple was also discovered here in 1830. Concealed among the underwood near it are two metopae, adorned with high reliefs. These remains, however, are insignificant compared with the ruins above mentioned. — Of the 'rose-gardens' of Paestum, so much extolled by Roman poets, no traces now exist.

168 Route 10. MAJORI. Gulf of

Without the N. gate, the so-called Porta Aurea, was a Street of Tombs. Several of those which have been opened contained Greek weapons ; and in one of them, examined in 1854, were found the fine mural paintings mentioned at p. 59.

A walk on the ancient Town-Walls , about 3 M. in circum- ference, formed of blocks of travertine and preserved almost entire, will enable the traveller, better than a close inspection, to form an idea of the imposing grandeur of these venerable ruins. The finest general * View of the temples is obtained from the terrace of the tower to the E. of the Porta delta Giustizia , on the S. side of the town-wall.

Amain.

Comp. Map, p. 164.

From Salerno to Amalfi, about 12l/2 M., carriage by the high-road in 2'/2-3 hrs. From Vietri, about 9'/2 or 10 M., carriage in 2-2>/2 hrs. Recommended also to walkers.

Between Naples and Amain service is maintained from Oct. to March by the steamer of the Florio-Rubattino Company plying once a week from Naples to Messina (leaving the Immacolatella at Naples on Thurs. at 5 p.m., reaching Amalfi at 9 p.m. ; leaving Amalfi on the return voyage on Wed. at 6 a.m., and reaching Naples at 10 a.m.).

The ** High Koad from Salbrno to Amalfi, completed in 1852, is still more attractive than that from Oastellammare to Sorrento (p. 147). It is nearly the whole way hewn in the cliffs of the coast, and frequently supported by galleries and vast viaducts 100-500 ft. above the sea-level. The slopes are generally somewhat bare, but are in many places laid out in terraces, and planted with vines, olives, lemons, and fruit-trees. The massive square watch- towers , erected under Charles V. as a protection against pirates, are now partly converted into dwellings.

From Salerno the road ascends, and near Vietri (p. 163) crosses the valley by a stone bridge. To the left in the sea rise two conical rocks, / Due Fratelli. On the hill to the right is Raito. The next place (jM/^M.) is the picturesquely situated fishing-village of Cetara, extending along the bottom of a narrow ravine ; it is frequently mentioned in the history of the invasions of the Sara- cens, and was the first place where they settled. The road now ascends to the Capo Tumolo, whence a beautiful prospect of the coast on both sides is enjoyed, and descends thence by the Capo d'Orso, where the fleet of Charles V. was defeated by Filippino Doria. On the right opens the valley of S. Maria, in which a foot- path ascends to the ruined monastery of Camaldoli dell' Avvocata, founded in 1485. We soon reach (8 M.) the small town of —

Majori, with terraced lemon-plantations and the ancient church of 8. Maria a Mare , at the mouth of the Val Tramonti, which is ascended by a carriage-road to Chiunzi (p. 160 j splendid view of the Bay of Naples). On the right in this valley lies the ancient ruined castle of S. Nicola , of which the Piccolomini were the last

Salerno. AMALFI. 10. Route. 169

proprietors. On the coast near Major! is the interesting grotto of Pandone , resemhling the Blue Grotto at Capri. In a picturesque sheltered situation above the high-road , halfway to Minori, is the *Hdtel Torre (R., L., & A. 3, B. 1% dej. 3, D. 5 (both incl. wine), pens. 8-10 fr.), an excellent quiet resort and a good centre for excursions.

Minori, a clean little village, with lemon-gardens, most beau- tifully situated, once the arsenal of Amain, lies at the mouth of the sometimes turbulent Beginolo. — The road to Ravello mentioned at p. 171, diverges to. the right near Atrani.

Atrani lies at the entrance to a ravine, on each side of which the houses rise picturesquely. The church of S. Salvatore di Biretto, on the Marina, contains handsome bronze doors , of Byzan- tine workmanship of the 11th cent., monuments of the Doges of Amalfl, and others of the Saracenic period. Midnight mass is per- formed here on Christmas Eve, when the town and hills are illumin- ated. Above Atrani is the village of Pontone, halfway to which is a house in which Masaniello is said to have been born (but comp. p. 39).

A lofty rocky eminence , bearing the extensive ruins of the castle of Pontone, separates Atrani from (2^4 M.) Amalfl.

Amalfl. — Hotels (frequently crowded in the season; rooms should be secured In advance). *Gr. Albergo Cappuccini-Convento , in the old Capuchin monastery (p. 170) above the town, with fine view, frequented by English and Americans, R., L., & A. 51/2, B. l'/2, dej. 3, D. 5, pens. 12 fr. (for a stay of a week or more; L. extra); "Cappuccini alla Marina (same proprietors), at the harbour, R., L., & A. 5, B. l'/2, dej. 3, D. 5, pens. 8 fr. (L. extra). — * Albergo della Luna, formerly a monastery, with picturesque cloisters , at the E. end of the town , 1/1 M. from the harbour, somewhat poorly fitted up, R., L., & A. 21/2, B. l'/i, dej. 2>/2, D. 4, pens. 81/* fr. (all incl. wine). — "Alb. d'Italia, near the harbour, R., L., & A. l'/2fr., B.60c, dej., incl. wine, 2, D.2'/2, pens.6fr., wine included. — Saccardi, Piazza del Duomo, unpretending.

Boats l'/2-2 fr. per hour (an expedition to the above-mentioned Grotta Pandone takes about 2'/2 hrs. there and back; the Grotta di S. Andrea lies only 10-15 min. from Amalfl); to Prajano with 4 rowers, IV2 hr., 8-10 fr. arc demanded, but a bargain may be made for less; to Capri in about 6 hrs. with 4-6 rowers 20-30 fr.; to Salerno with 2 rowers 6-8 fr.

Carriages may be obtained from a hirer residing immediately beyond the Piazza on the way to the mill-valley (p. 171); carr. and pair to Ra- vello, 5-6 fr., fee extra. — Donket, 1-1 1/t fr. per hr. — Guide unnecessary. — The beggars, especially the children, are more importunate at Amalfl than at any other spot near Naples.

Amalfl, a small but lively town with 7000 inhab., whose chief occupations are the manufacture of paper, soap, and maccaroni, is situated at the entrance of a deep ravine, surrounded by imposing mountains and rocks of the most picturesque forms. In the early part of the middle ages , it was a prosperous seaport , rivalling Pisa and Genoa, and numbered 50,000 inhabitants.

Amalfl is mentioned for the first time in the 6th cent. , when it enjoyed the protection of the Eastern emperors ; it afterwards became an independent state, under the presidency of a 'doge'. The town was continually at variance with the neighbouring princes of Salerno, and even defied the

170 Route 10. AMALFL Gulf of

Norman sovereigns of Naples, till King Roger reduced the place in 1131. United with the royal forces, Amain carried on a war with the Pisans ; and it was during this struggle that the celebrated MS. of the Pandects of Justinian, now one of the principal treasures of the Laurentian library at Florence, fell into the hands of the Pisans. The place then became subject to the kings of the houses of Anjou and Aragon. In the 12th cent, the sea began gradually to undermine the lower part of the town, and a ter- rible inundation in 1343 proved still more disastrous. After that period Amain steadily declined. The town boasts of having given birth to Flavio Gioja, who is said to have invented the compass here in 1302. The Tavole Amalfitane were recognised for centuries as the maritime law of the Mediterranean. — The Cavaliere Camera possesses rich collections illustrating the history of Amalfl, and also an admirable cabinet of coins, which he very obligingly shows to interested visitors.

From the Marina a short street leads past the Albergo dei Cappuccini to the small Piazza, on the right side of which rises the cathedral, approached by a broad flight of steps.

The *Cattedralb S. Andrea is still, in spite of modern alte- rations, an interesting structure of the 11th cent., in the Lombard Norman style. The portal, built of alternate courses of black and white stone , was re-erected in 1865. The facade has also been recently restored. The campanile, adorned with columns from Paesr tum, dates from 1276.

The Bronze Doors, executed by Byzantine masters in the 11th cent., bear two inscriptions in silver letters, one of which runs thus : 'Hoc opus fieri jussit pro redemptione animse suae Pantaleo Alius Mauri de Pantaleone de Mauro de Maurone Comite'.

The "Inteeioe consists of a nave and two aisles, with a series of chapels on each side. Behind the, chapels on the N. side is a third aisle, really a small independent church, connected with the N. aisle by several entrances. In the first chapel to the left is an ancient vase of porphyry, formerly used as a font. Near this, to the left, in the first passage to the outer aisle, are two ancient sarcophagi with sculptures, unfortunately damaged, supposed to represent the Rape of Proserpine, and the Nuptials of Peleus and Thetis (according to others , the marriage of Theseus and Ariadne); a third bears the inscription: 'Hie intus homo verus certus.op- tumus recumbo Publius Octavius Rufus decurio\ — The choir contains ancient columns decorated with mosaic from Psestum. — From the S. aisle a flight of steps descends to the Ckypx (generally open ; when closed, verger 20 c), where the body of the apostle St. Andrew is said to have reposed since the 13th cent, when it was brought hither from Constan- tinople. The relics, from which an oily matter (manna di S. Andrea) of miraculous power is said to exude , attract numerous devotees. The colossal "Statue of the saint by Michael Angelo Maccarino was presented by Philip III. of Spain. The altar was executed from a design by Domenico Fontana. — The Cloisters, entered from the left aisle, contain a relief of the Twelve Apostles of the 14th cent., and a Madonna of more recent date, besides remains of several ancient columns from Psestum which supported the portal before the restoration in 1865 (see above). — Solemn processions on St. Andrew's Day (Nov. 30th).

The church of 8. Maria Dolorata , 300 yds. to the N. of the cathedral, also contains ancient columns from Paestum.

On the steep slope above Amalfl on the W. the old *Capuchin Monastery is conspicuous. It was founded in 1212 by Cardinal Pietro Capuano for the Cistercians, but came into possession of the Capuchins in 1583, and is now fitted up as a hotel. The building, which stands in the hollow of a rock which rises abruptly from the

Salerno. RAVELLO. 10. Route. 171

sea to a height of 230 ft., contains fine cloisters, a charming veran- dah, and magnificent points of view. A large grotto to the left was formerly used as a Calvary. Itis most conveniently reached hy a flight of steps ascending from the new road; 15 min. from the harbour.

On the slopes above the town to the E. appears the arcade of the Cemetery of Amalfl. The solitary round tower on the hill above belongs to the Castello Pontone (p. 169).

A cool and pleasant Walk may be taken in the narrow Valle de' Molini, or mill-valley, at the back of Amalfl, which contains 16 paper-mills driven by the brook. (From the Piazza we follow the main street, which ends in 4 min.; we then go straight on through the Porta dell' Ospedale, a covered passage opposite the fountain.) On the right rise lofty cliffs. Perhaps the most picturesque point is at the (1 hr.)' Molino Rovinato. — To Amalfl belong the villages of Pogerola, Pastina, Lone, Vettica Minore, and Tovere, all situated to the W. of the town in a district yielding wine , oil, and fruit in abundance. The coast is overgrown with the aloe and cactus opuntia. — A pleasant excursion may also be made via Pastina and Vettica Minore to the old fort of S. Lazzaro , with a splendid view of the entire coast.

From Amalfi to Ravello, an ascent of I-IV2 hr. (carr. p. 169), a most attractive excursion, affording beautiful views, and interest- ing also to the student of art, particularly if as yet unacquainted with Moorish architecture. The new road begins at the Villa Proto (3/4 M. from the Alb. Luna at Amalfl), to the E. of Atrani (p. 169), ascends to the left in long windings, and then enters the beautiful Valley of Atrani , the bottom of which forms a continuous orange- grove. It follows the valley until three mills are reached, and then again ascends to the right in windings (road to Scala to the left, at the third bend; see p. 172) toRavello.

Walkers have an alternative route aa follows, although the longer carriage-road is in many respects preferable. Quitting the road at Atrani, we ascend the broad flight of steps on the left beside the church of S. Maria Maddalena (7 min. from the Alb. della Luna) and cross the little Largo Maddalena. We then ascend the steps on the right and continue straight on, through vaulted lanes and up steep flights of stairs (or in some cases descending) to the valley of Atrani, where we rejoin the carriage-road. Beyond the three mills footpaths again cut off the windings of the road.

Ravello. — Hotels. *H6t.-Pens. Palcmbo, in the old episcopal palace, R. 3-5, L. 1/2, B. I1/2, dej. 3, D. 4-5, pens. 8-9 fr.; Alb. del Toko, in the former Palazzo d'Afflitto , R., L., & A. i% fr., B. 60 c, dej. 1 fr. 80 c, D. 272 (both iucl. wine), pens. incl. wine 7 fr. (for a week or more 6 fr.), well spoken of.

Ravello (1150ft.), founded under the Normans, in the zenith of its prosperity under the house of Anjou in the 13th cent, pos- sessed thirteen churches, four monasteries , numerous palaces, and 36,000 inhabitants (now 2000 only).

The Romanesque *Cathedral (St. Pantaleone) , founded in the 11th cent., is almost entirely modernised. The bronze doors, by

172 Route 10. EAVELLO.

Barisanus of Trani (1179"), with numerous figures of saints, are opened from the inside by the verger; on the outside they are concealed by wooden doors. The magnificent *Ambo, in marble, embellished with mosaics , was presented in 1272 ; it rests on six columns supported by lions ; inscription, 'Nicolaus de Fogia mar- morarius hoc opus fecit'. The fine bust on the arch is said to be a portrait of Sigilgaita Rufolo. Opposite to it is the pulpit, in a simpler style, with a representation of Jonah being swallowed by the whale. In the choir is the episcopal throne, adorned with mosaics. The Cappella di S. Pantaleone (left) contains the blood of the saint. In the Sacristy are a beautiful but sadly damaged Madonna, a St. Sebastian, and an Assumption, said to be by Andrea da Salerno.

Turning to the left on leaving the cathedral , passing the foun- tain , and walking for 100 paces between garden-walls , we reach the entrance to the ^Palazzo Rufalo (visitors ring at the second gateway on the right), now the property of a Mr. Reid. This edi- fice, built in the Saracenic style and dating from the 12th cent., was once occupied by Pope Adrian IV., King Charles II., and Robert the Wise. In the centre is a small, fantastic court with a colon- nade. One of the gateways has a Saracenic dome. A verandah in the garden (1115 ft. above the sea-level) commands a delightful view (gardener ^2 &•)•

Returning to the piazza and ascending a lane to the left of the cathedral, we come in 5 min. to the church of 8. Giovanni del Toro, a modernised basilica borne by columns , and containing a fine old pulpit. The adjacent garden affords a fine view of the valley of Minori, of the small town of that name at its mouth, and of the more distant Majori and the Capo d'Orso beyond it (fee of a few soldi ; refreshments to be had). — S. Maria Immacolata is a picturesque little church, also Romanesque.

Another point commanding a very extensive view is the *Bel- vedere Cembrone. Passing in front of the cathedral, towards the S., we go straight through a gateway, pass (8 min.) the portal of the church of 8. Chiara to the right , reach a door on the left (visitors knock), and traverse the garden to the belvedere.

The excursion to Amain may be pleasantly extended by 1-2 hrs. by visiting Scala (p. 171 ; Caffe della Rosa), a village with a large church containing the tombs of the Coppola family; the church of SS.Annunzlata, an old basilica with ten large ancient columns and some old frescoes (to the right the ruined castle of Scaletla); and Pontone. From the last we descend (steep) to the mill-valley. This is an interesting, but fatiguing walk. A donkey should not be taken farther than the church of SS. Annunziata, as riding is scarcely practicable beyond it.

From Amalfi to Sobeento, at present by boat to Prajano (see p. 173) and thence drive to Sorrento ; best light in the morning. — The continuation of the coast-road to the W. of Amalfl will pro- bably not be practicable for carriages until the end of 1892, al- though already open to peedestrians. It leads below the Capuchin monastery and pierces a small headland by means of a short tunnel.

POSITANO. 10. Route. 173

Near Vettica Minore it is joined by the path (mentioned on p. 146) from Agerola, a visit to which is a pleasant excursion from Amalfi. The road then rounds the Capo di Conca, skirts the precipitous cliffs of Furore, and reaches (5-5!/2 M. from Amain) Prajano. — Travellers with luggage proceed at present by rowing-boat (p. 169) along the picturesque coast to (1-1 '/^hr.) the Marina della Praja, above which the road leads. Here they are met by carriages, which should be ordered by telegraph from Sorrento (p. 147; drive to Sorrento, about 3 hrs.). Travellers in the opposite direction will also probably find it prudent to order a boat beforehand from Amalfi, though one is generally to be obtained at the Marina della Praja.

At the beginning of Prajano, near the spot where we join the road, is the Stella d'Oro Inn (R. 2, B. 1, de'j. 2l/2, D. 4, both incl. wine, pens. 6 fr. ; dearer in spring), well spoken of. Prajano and Vettica Maggiore, which adjoins it beyond Capo Soitile, aTe noted for their abundant wine and oil. The road skirts the coast, passing the Punta S. Pietro (chapel) and the ravine of the Arienzo, descending from Monte S. Angelo. High above is Montepertuso (p. 146). In 1 hr. (4V2 M. from the Marina della Praja) carriages reach —

Positano, picturesquely situated on the mountain-slopes, with 3000 inhab., an important harbour under the Anjou dynasty. Many of the natives leave their homes and travel through Southern Italy as hawkers. They assemble at their native place annually to cele- brate their principal church-festival (15th Aug. ; excursion-steamer from Naples), and finally return thither in later life to spend their declining years.

The road skirts the highest houses of the town, descends again to the coast, along which it proceeds for about 2l/2 M., and then begins to ascend inland. Fine view of the Isles of the Sirens, usually called / Oalli, which were fortified in the middle ages. The highest point of the road is a drive of fully 3/4 hr. from Positano ; walkers must allow double that time. The descent through luxuriant orange and lemon-groves to Meta is picturesque, though distant views are seldom obtained. At the Madonna del Lauro at Meta (p. 147), IOI/2 M. or 2Y-2 hrs. drive from Prajano, we reach the road from OastellammaTe to Sorrento, at a point nearly 3 M. (i/^hr-'s drive) from Sorrento (p. 147).

11. From Naples to Benevento via, Nola and Avellino.

From Cancello, a station on the Naples and Rome railway, a branch- line runs to Nola, and skirts the Apennines to Avellino. From Naples to Nola in I-I1/2 hr. (fares 3 fr. 10, 1 fr. 95 c, 1 fr.) ; to Avellino in 3-4 hrs. (fares 8fr. 60, 5 fr. 40, 2 fr. 70 c.) ; to Benevento in 4"/2-5 hrs. (fares 12 fr., 7 fr. 80, 4 fr. 25 c.). — Railway from Naples to Baiano via Nola, see p. 174.

From Naples to Cancello, 13 M., see p. 10.

201/2 M. Nola, with 12,000 inhab., an ancient Campanian city, was almost the only one which successfully resisted the attacks of Hannibal after the battle of Cannae , B.C. 216 ; and the following

174 Route 11. NOLA. From Naples

year its inhabitants under the command of the brave M. Marcellus succeeded in repulsing the invader. The Emperor Augustus died here on 19th Aug. A.D. 14, in his 76th year, in the same house and apartment where his father Octavius had breathed his last. In ancient times Nola was not less important than Pompeii. It is now an insignificant place and devoid of interest. In the 5th cent., St. Paulinus, an accomplished poet and Bishop of Nola (b. at Bor- deaux in 354, d. 431), is said to have invented church-bells at this Campanian town , whence the word 'campana' is derived. On 26th June a great festival is celebrated in his honour ; eight lofty and gaily adorned towers of light wood-work (so-called 'Lilies') and a ship bearing the image of the saint are drawn through the streets in procession. The free-thinker Giordano Bruno, who on 17th Feb. 1600, terminated his eventful career at the stake in Rome , was born at Nola, where a monument, renewed in 1888, has been erected to his memory. Oiovanni Merliano, the sculptor of Naples, known as Oiovanni da Nola, was also born here in 1488.

Nola is celebrated as an ancient cradle of the plastic art. The magnificent vases with shining black glazing and skilfully drawn red figures, which form the principal ornaments of the museums of Naples and of other places, were made here. Numerous coins of Nola with Greek inscriptions have also been found.

About 1/2 M. to the N.E. of the town is situated the Seminary, where several Latin inscriptions and the so-called Oippus Abellanus, a remarkable inscription in the Oscan language found near Ahella, are preserved. Above the seminary (5 min.) is the Franciscan monastery of S. Angelo, command- ing a view of the fertile and luxuriant plain ; to the left is Monte Somma, behind which Vesuvius is concealed; to the right rise the mountains of Maddaloni. A little to the E. is a Capuchin monastery, above which the ruined castle of Cicala picturesquely crowns an eminence.

Nola is connected with Naples by a Local Railway as well as by the main line (I6V2 M., in I-I.1/4 hr.; fares 2 fr. 45, 1 fr. 55, 80 c. ; return-tickets at a reduction of 25 per cent, available till the first train of the follow- ing day or for three days on the eve of a festival). The train starts at Naples from the Nola-Baiano Station (PI. H, 2, 3; p. 49). The line tra- verses Campania, offering numerous picturesque views. Stations: l1/* M. Poggioreale; 6 M. Casalnuovo; 8 M. Pomigliano d'Arco; 10 M. Castello di Cistema; IOV2M. Brusciano; 11 M. Mariglianella ; I21/2M. Marigliano (car- riages to Somma, see p. 118); 13 M. S. Vitaliano-Casaferro; 13V2 M. Scis- ciano ; 15^2 M. Saviano; 16>/2 31. Nola. — Beyond Nola the railway contin- ues to : I71/2 M. Cimilile, I872 M. Camposano, 19 M. Cicciano, 2OV2 M. Rocca- rainola, 23 M. Avella-Sperone, and 23'/2 M. Baiano. From Baiano carriages ply to Avellino and back in connection with the 1st, 2nd, and 5th trains from and to Naples (through-fares 4 fr. 45, 3 fr. 15, 2 fr. 10 c; return 7 fr. 20, 5 fr. 25, 3 fr. 65 c). — Avella is the classic Abella, near which are exten- sive plantations of hazel-nut, the 'nuces Avellanae1 of antiquity. The aqueduct of the new Neapolitan water-works (p. 32) passes in the vicinity.

25^2 M. Palma, picturesquely situated on the slopes of the Apennines opposite Ottaiano , with 7500 inhab. and an ancient chateau, is commanded by an extensive ruined castle on a height.

30!/2 M. Sarno, a town with 16,500 inhab., lies on the Sarno, which flows hence towards Scafati and Pompeii. Above it towers a

to Benevento. AVELLINO. 11. Route. 1 7E

ruined stronghold of Count Francesco Coppola, -who took an im- portant part in the conspiracy against Ferdinand of Arragon (1485)

The view now becomes more limited. Tunnel. 35 M. Codola branch-line to Nocera, see p. 161. — 37 M. Castel San Giorgio. — 4CH/2 M. Mercato SanSeverino (/nn, poor), on the road from Avellim to Salerno. The principal church contains the tombs of Tommaso d< San Severino, high-constable of the kingdom of Naples in 1353, an< of several princes of Salerno. A road leads from S. Severino t< Salerno (about 10 M.) ; railway in progress, comp. p. 165. — Thi line now turns to the N. 43i/2 M. Montoro; 5272 M. Solofra 541/2 M. Serino.

59 M. Avellino (Albergo Centrale , well spoken of, obliging landlord , who provides guides for Mte. Vergine ; Albergo dell Puglie), with 23,000 inhab., the capital of a province, situated 01 the old post-road from Naples to Foggia. The name is derived fron the ancient Abellinum, the ruins of which are 2^2 M. distant, nea the village of Atripalda. Another road leads hence to (14 M. Montesarchio and Benevento (p. 204).

From Avellino we may visit Monte Vergine, a famous resort of pil grims (donkey 4-5 fr. and fee; provisions should be brought from Ave] lino). There are two routes to the convent. 1. We follow the Road t< the W. end of the town and then ascend the bye-road to the right. A O/2 M.) the cross-roads we proceed to the left to (1 31.) Loreto, wher the abbot and older monks live in a large octagonal building designed b; Vanvitelli. The convent archives and 'spezieria* are also here. — 2. Foot path. We proceed from the Municipio through the Via Mancini to th prison and on between the gymnasium (left) and the barracks (right) t a villa , the gateway of which we enter. The path to the left, by th brook, ascends through gardens and fields to Loreto. Thence to Met cogliano , where donkeys may be procured (l1^ fr.), */4 hr. more. A tracl leading to the right here at the Piazza Michele Santangelo, and soon cross ing the road, leads to the stony bridle-path (partly provided with steps and through wood to (2 hrs.) the convent of Monte Vergine, founded ii 1119 on the ruins of a temple of Cybele , some remains of which ar shown in the convent. The Church contains a miraculous picture of th Virgin, and the tombs of Catherine of Valois, who caused the pictur to be brought hither, and of her son Louis of Taranto, second husbani of Johanna I. Their effigies repose on a Roman sarcophagus. On th left side of the high-altar is the chapel erected for himself by King Man fred, which, when that monarch fell at Benevento, was given by Charle of Anjou to one of his French attendants. At Whitsuntide (comp. p. 2? and on Sept. 7th about 70-80,000 pilgrims visit the convent , many of th penitents ascending barefoot and crawling on their hands and knees froi the church-door to the altar.

From the convent we may ascend to the (1/2 hr.) top of the mountai (4290 ft.), commanding a magnificent survey of the bays and the exten sive mountainous district.

641/2 M. Prata Pratola ; 66l/2 M. Tufo. — 68'M. Altavilla Ir pino. — 70 M. Chianehe; 76 M. Benevento P.R. — 77l/2 M. Bene vento (p. 204).

EASTERN AND SOUTHERN DISTRICTS OF S. ITALY.

These parts of Italy have, until recently, been beyond the reach of the ordinary traveller. The W. coast is, moreover, by far the richer and more picturesque, as well as more replete with historical interest. The E. districts can boast of no such names as those of Florence , Rome, and Naples, but they are not devoid of attraction, and have been endowed by nature with a considerable share of the gifts she has so bounteously lavished on other parts of Italy.

The Apennines , rising at a short distance from the coast, send forth a series of parallel ramifications, forming a corresponding number of par- allel valleys, whose communication with the external world is maintained by means of the coast to which they descend. To the S. of Ancona, from about the 43rd to the 42nd degree of N. latitude, stretch the Central Apennines, embracing the three provinces of the Abruzzi (Chieti, Teramo, and Aquila) , the ancient Samnium. They culminate in the Montagna delta Sibilla (8120 ft.), the Oran Sasso a" Italia (9585 ft.), and the Maiella (9170 ft.) , groups which are connected by continuous ranges , and which are clad with snow down to the month of July. These mountains abound in fine scenery (RR. 12-14) , but until recently they have been well-nigh inaccessible owing to the defectiveness of the means of communication and the badness of the inns. The mountains to the S. of 42° N. lat., receding gradually from the sea, are called the Neapolitan Apennines. The only spur which projects into the sea is the Mte. Oargano (3465 ft.), which, however, is separated from the chief range by a considerable plain. Beyond this stretches the Apulian plain, an extensive tract of pasture and arable land, bounded by an undulating district on the S. About the 41st degree of N. latitude the Apennines divide; the main chain, extending towards the S., forms the peninsula of Calabria; the lower chain, to the E., that of Apulia.

The Coast (Provinces of Ancona, the Abruzzi, Capitanata, Terra di Sari, and Terra d'Otranto) is flat and monotonous, and destitute of good harbours. The estuaries of the small rivers afford but scanty protection to the vessels of the coasting trade. Even at Ancona the prominent M. Conero (1880 ft.) alone renders the anchorage tolerable. The villages and towns, in which local peculiarities often prevail in a marked degree, are generally situated on the heights, and conspicuous at a great distance. Farther to the S., however, in the ancient Apulia and Calabria (p. 200), the coast scenery improves, and there are three important harbours, those of Sari, Brindisi, and Otranto. Since the construction of the railway the most direct route between Western and Central Europe and the East has passed this way.

Of the Southeen Peovinces, the former Sasilicata (now the province of Potenza), the ancient Lucania, is less interesting than most other parts of Italy, whereas Calabria is replete with striking scenery, though civilization here still lags wofully behind. The shores of the Gnlf of Taranto , whose waters bound both of these provinces , were once studded with numerous flourishing Greek colonies, and the whole district bore the name of Magna Oraecia; but the traces of that prosperous epoch are now scanty. The period of decline began with the Roman supremacy. The art and culture of the middle ages never penetrated to these remote regions. The fields once extolled by Sophocles for their richness and fertility are now sought for in vain, and the malaria exercises its dismal sway throughout the whole of this neglected district. The soil belongs

RIETI. 12. Route. 177

to the nobility , who let it to a miserably poor and ignorant class ot farmers. The custom of carrying 'weapons is universally prevalent here (comp., however, p. xiv), and brigandage was carried on until the year 1870 The villages are generally wretched and filthy beyond description. No one should therefore attempt to explore the remoter parts of this country unless provided with letters of introduction to some of the principal inhabitants. Information may usually be best obtained in the chemists' shops (farmaeitta). Tolerable inns are to be found only in the larger towns. In smaller localities, the traveller should insist upon having a room to himself or he may have to share his bedroom with other travellers, according to' the custom of the country. The hotel omnibuses generally carry passengers even when the latter are not staying in the hotel.

12. From Terni to Solmona through the Abruzzi.

102 M. Railway in 6>/2-7 hrs. (fares 18 fr. 55, 13 fr., 8fr.35 c).

Terni, and thence via (51/2 M.) Stroncone and (10 M.) Marmore, the station for the fine waterfall of the Velino, to (11 M.) Piediluco, see Baedeker's Central Italy.

Beyond Piediluco the line follows the course of the Velino, crossing the winding stream several times. 1 6 1/2 M. Greccio ; 20i/2 M. Contigliano.

2bl/2 M. Rieti (*Croce Bianca; Campana), on the right bank of the Velino (16,800 inhab.], the ancient Beate, was once the capital of the Sabines , but no traces of the ancient city remain save a few inscriptions preserved in the town-hall. The Cathedral, dating from 1456, contains a S. Barbara by Bernini, and the mon- ument of Isabella Alfani by Thorvaldsen ; fine view in front of the edifice.

Excursions may be made from Rieti to the picturesque mountain scenery of the Central Apennines, though not unattended by difficulties on account of the indifferent character of the inns and roads. Thus to Leonessa, 151/3 jf. distant, erected in a lofty mountain ravine about the year 1252 ; thence to (121/2 M.) Cascia, said to be the ancient seat of the Casci, or aborigines of the district ; 71/2 M. farther to Norcia, the ancient Nursia, nearly destroyed by an earthquake in 1857, with walls of great antiquity, birthplace of Vespasia Pollia, mother of the emperor Vespasian, whose family monu- ments were situated at Vespasia, 71/2 M. distant. St. Benedict and his sister Scholastica were also natives of Nursia.

From Rieti the line proceeds through a picturesque district in the valley of the Velino. The mountains are clothed with forest, and their lower slopes with vineyards and olives. 31 M. Citta- ducale, founded in 1308 by Robert, Duke of Calabria, was formerly the frontier-town of the Neapolitan dominions. 3672 M. Castel S. Angelo. About 1 M. to the "W. are the Sulphur Baths of Pa- terno, the ancient Aquae Cutiliae, which were regularly frequented by Vespasian, and where he died in A.D. 79. The Pozzo di La- tignano , the ancient Lacus Cutiliae, was regarded by Varro as the central point ('umbilicus') of Italy.

4OY2M. Antrodoco-Borgo-Velino. Antrodoco, the Lat. Intero- crea, beautifully situated on the Velino, at a little distance from the station, is commanded on the N. E. by the lofty Monte Calvo; on the hill is the ruined castle of the Vitelli. — 45'/2 M. Rocca

Baedekek. Italy III. 11th Edition. 12

178 Route 12. AQUILA. From Terni

di Fondi; 49'^ M. Rocca di Corno ; 53 M. Sella di Corno. — We next reach, the watershed between the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Adri- atic. The railway then descends into the valley of the Aterno. — 55^2 M. Vigliano; 59y2 M. Sassa-Tomimparte, on the site of the ancient Foruli.

62 M. Aquila. — The Station, (Rail. Restaurant, unpretending) lies i]/4 M. from the town; omnibus up to the town 50 c, down to the sta- tion 40 c.

Hotels. * Sole, Piazza del Palazzo, with a frequented trattoria ; Italia, Corso Vitt. Emanuele ; Aquila Neea, near the Piazza del Duomo, E. at each 1-2 fr. Hotel -omnibuses meet the trains.

Trattorie. Esposizione , Corso Vitt. Emanuele ; Rosetta , Via del Guas- tatore; Grand Caffi Ristorante, Piazza dei Quattro Cantoni.

Carriages at Berardfs, Corso Vitt. Emanuele, and Morone's, adjoining the Alb. del Sole; carr. with two horses to Paganica (p. 180) 6 fr., to Assergi 10 fr. — Post Office in the Piazza del Palazzo.

Aquila, called degli Abruzzi, founded by Emp. Frederick II. about 1240 as a check on papal encroachments, destroyed by Man- fred in 1259, and rebuilt by Charles I., maintained itself as an almost entirely independent republic , supported by the free pea- santry of the district, until it was finally subdued by the Spaniards in 1521. In point of constitutional history, industry, and art it oc- cupied a unique position. It is now the prosperous capital of the province of the same name, with 18,500 inhab., spacious streets, handsome palaces , and churches with interesting facades. It en- joys a pure and healthy atmosphere owing to its lofty situation (2360 ft.) , and is consequently a favourite summer-resort of the Italians. To the N.E. is the Gran Sasso d'ltalia (p. 180), which rises abruptly on this side.

From the Piazza del Palazzo the Strada del Princ. TJmberto to the right leads to the Corso, which we follow in a straight direction to the church of S. Bebnabdino di Sibna. The *Facade was executed with great artistic taste in 1525-42 by Cola dell' Amatriee. In the interior, on the right, is the *Monument of the saint, decorated with arabesques and sculpture , executed by Silvestro da Arsicola in 1505. A fine marble tomb near the high-altar is by the same artist. The interesting wooden statue of Pompeo dell' Aquila dates from the 16th century. The 1st Chapel on the right contains a Coronation of the Virgin and a Resurrection by della Robbia.

From S. Bernardino we descend to the piazza, cross the latter towards the left, pass through the Porta di Collemaggio, and reach the monastery of S. Mabia di Collemaggio (in the popular dialect Collemezzo). The Romanesque *Facade , inlaid with coloured marble , consists of three portals and three corresponding rose- windows. Contiguous to the church is an ancient and remarkably small clock-tower. Interior gaudily modernised. To the left is the Chapel of Celestine V. (keys at the Municipio), containing his tomb (d. 1296), a work in the Renaissance style. His life and acts and those of other saints are represented in a series of fantastic

to Solmona. AQUILA. 12. Route. 179

pictures by the Celestinian monk Ruter, a pupil of Rubens. — We now leturn through, the new street, which leads from the church straight to the S.W. end of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele.

The Via della Prefettura leads hence to the left to a small piazza in which rises the little church of S. Marca, with a Romanesque facade. — The Via di Bazzano diverging to the right from the Corso a little farther on brings lis to the church of 8. Giusta, also with a Romanesque facade and an ancient painting above the entrance. ■ — ■ No. 18, on the left farther along in the line of the Corso, is the Palazzo Dragonetti containing pictures of the 16th cent, (the best by Pompeo dell' Aquila).

We now return to the Corso, on the left of which is the Piazza del Duomo or Piazza Maggiore. Turning to the right past the cathe- dral (opposite the Corso) we see immediately to our left the *Palazzo Torres containing a picture-gallery with an admirable *Portrait of Cardinal Torres by Domenichino ; Stoning of St. Stephen by the same master, on copper; Eucharist, by Titian, on marble. ■ — Farther on are the churches of S. Marciano and 8. Maria di Roio, both with Romanesque facades. Beside the latter is the Palazzo Persiohetti with a collection of paintings by old masters and other works of art.

Farther up the Corso, on the left, is the handsome Town Hall, which contains, in the passage and on the walls of the staircase, a valuable collection of Roman inscriptions. On the upper floor is a picture-gallery in several rooms (apply to one of the officials). The Sala dei Gonfaloni contains several interesting paintings of the old Aquilan school; in another room are numerous examples of Ruter, the animal-painter (see above); in the Sala del Consiglio are portraits of prominent natives of Aquila in the 13-17th cent.; and another room contains some unimportant antiquities, MSS. of the 15th cent., and good miniatures.

From the Corso, farther on, the Via Leosini leads to the left to 8. Maria di Paganica, with a Romanesque facade and side-portal, and the Via del Carmine to the right to 8. Maria del Carmine, with a Romanesque facade and an ancient painting over the entrance.

At the upper end of the Corso lies the Piazza Margherita. We turn to the right into the Via Garibaldi, then to the right into the Via del Guasto, on the right side of which stands the early-Renais- sance church of S. Maria della Misericordia, adorned on the outside with paintings of 1545. — Farther on, beside the hospital, is a small church with a Romanesque facade and a curious painted portal, shewing the Madonna and saints in the tympanum, with praying angels above (15th cent.). — The Via Garibaldi proceeds to the church of 8. Silvestro, with Romanesque facade and side -portal. Opposite the church is the Via delle Streghe, leading to the left to the Via Principe Umberto, to the left of which is the Piazza del .Palazzo (p. 178).

12*

180 Route 12. AQUILA. From Terni

If we turn to the right (not through the gate) from the Piazza Margherita (p. 179) we reach the Citadel, a massive square edifice with low round towers, constructed by the Spaniards in 1543 under Charles V., surrounded by a moat. This point affords the best *View of the Gran Sasso, the town, and the mountainous environs. (Application for admission must be made to an officer.)

Outside the Porta del Castello is the interesting early-Renaissance burial church of the Madonna del Soccorso, with a facade of red and white marble. In the interior are two tombs by Arsicola (above one of which is an earlier Pieta) and some works by Silvestro.

Near Aquila, Braccio Fortebraccio da Montone, the dreaded rival of Sforza, was defeated by the united armies of Queen Johanna II. of Naples, Pope Martin V., and the Duke of Milan, commanded by Jacopo Caldora, on 2nd June, 1424.

About 3 M. to the N.W., (excursion of 3-4 hrs., two-horse carr. 5 fr.), on the road to Teramo (p. 190), is the village of S. Vittorino on the Aterno, occupying the site of the celebrated ancient Sabine town of Amiternum, where the historian Sallust was born. On an eminence which was once crowned by the ancient Arx, or citadel, stands an old tower with inscrip- tions and sculptures built into the walls. At the foot of the hill are remains of a theatre, an amphitheatre, and other buildings of the imperial epoch, where antiquities are frequently found.

The Ascent of the Gran Sasso d'Italia , 1-2 days there and back, is most conveniently undertaken from Aquila. (Letters of introduction from members of the Italian Alpine Club desirable.) An excellent special map of the district has been issued by the Roman section of the club. The best season for this expedition is summer or autumn; in spring the snow is a great hindrance (so that a very early start should be made from the refuge-hut). Provisions should be taken from Assergi. We drive via, Paganica (OsteriadeVecchis, with rooms) and Camarda (PompiliaMoscardi's Inn), where the sindaco keeps the key of the Rifugio on the Campo Pericoli, in 2 hrs. to Assergi (2935 ft. ; provisions obtainable from Francesco Sacca), finely situated at the foot of the Gran Sasso. Mule (here known as vet- lure) from this point to the station of Paganica (p. 181) 2-3 fr. ; to the Rifugio and back 5 fr. per day; two-wheeled car (sciarraba) to Paganica 2-3 fr., for a party l-l'/2 fr. each. Giovanni Acitelli, his brother, and Franco di Nicola are good guides. The two former, here only from May to Nov., possess a key to the Rifugio. Tariff: to the Rifugio in summer, one day 5, two days 7 fr., in winter 7 and 10 fr.; to the summit, spending a night in the Rifugio, 10 and 16 fr. ; with descent to Pietracamela 15 and 20 fr. ; each addit. day 4 and 6 fr. — From Assergi we walk or ride (mule 4-5 fr.) in about 4'/2 hrs. by a miserable path to the Pusso delta Portella (7400 ft.), a narrow saddle between the Pizzo Cefaloneand the Monte Portella (see below), whence we survey the N. slopes of the Apennines as far as Ascoli. Thence we descend in 1 hr. to the Campo Pericoli, inhabited by shep- herds, where a well-equipped refuge-hut (7220 ft.) was built by the Ital- ian Alpine Club in 1886. An ascent of about 3 hrs. more, on foot, brings us to the summit. The "Gran Sasso d'ltalia, or Monto Corno (9585 ft.), is the highest peak of the Apennines. In formation it resembles the limestone Alps of the Tyrol. The view is strikingly grand, embracing the Tyrr- henian Sea, the Adriatic, the rocky Dalmatian coast, and the whole of Central Italy. The other chief summits of the Gran Sasso group are the Pizzo d' Intermesole (8680 ft.), the Corno Piccolo (8650 ft.) , the Pizzo Cefa- lone (8305 ft.), and the Monte delta Portella (7835 ft.).

The ascent of the Gran Sasso from Teramo (p. ISO) is not so conven- ient. We drive by the Aquila road via Montorio up the valley of the Vomano to &/i hrs.) a point shortly before Fano Adriano (p. 190), where we turn to the left, by a bridle-path crossing high above the mountain-

to Solmona. FONTECCHIO. 12. Route. 181

stream of the Arno, and ascend to (1 hr.) Pielracamela (3295 ft.; no inn, rfmts., at Luigi deLuca, the shoemaker's). The sindaco here also has a key of the Rifugio on the Campo Pericoli (see p. 180; guides, Domenico Rossi and Pietro Venanzo). We ascend to the latter in 5-6 hrs.

For full instruction and details see the 'Guida al Gran Sasso d'ltalia1, by Dr. Enrico Abbate (5 fr.; Rome, 1888).

From Aqetla to Avezzano, ca. 31 M., diligence daily in 7 hrs. (8 hrs. in the reverse direction). The road descends into the Aterno Valley, crosses the railway, and ascends slowly through vineyards. Beyond Ocre it passes through an oak-plantation. Fine retrospect of Aquila and the Gran Sasso; farther on, view to the S.E. of the Maiella. Numerous villages and hamlets lie on the surrounding slopes. 15'/2 M. (4!/2 hrs'. drive from Aquila) Rocca di Mezzo, a wretched village on the plateau, where horses are changed. About 1 hr. beyond Rocca, near Ovindoli with its pictur- esque ruin, we reach the top of the pass and begin to descend rapidly on the other side. 'View of the plain of the Lago di Fucino (p. 182). The castle of Celano and then the village itself soon come into sight and are reached in 3f\ hr. more. Thence to Avezzano, see p. 182.

As the train proceeds we obtain a pretty retrospective view of Aquila. The scenery of the valley is very striking ; to the N. the Gran Sasso d'ltalia. 69 M. Paganica, 21/^ M. from the village of that name (see p. 180); 74 M. S. Demetrlo ne' Vestini ; 771/2 M. Fa- gnano-Alto Campana; 80y2 M. Fontecchio, the village of which is perched high up on the rocks. The valley of the Aterno, which the railway descends, contracts. — 84 M. Beffi, with a large castle to the left. — The train now descends a steep gradient. — 87 M. Acciano ; 90 M. Molina. Then three long tunnels ; part of the line lies high above the river. — 95 M. Rajano (p . 1 84). Here the railway leaves the Aterno, which flows to the N.E. to Popoli, and begins to ascend the luxuriant valley of Solmona, watered by the Oizio, a tributary of the Aterno. To the E. is the Majella chain, and to the W. the hills enclosing the Lago di Fucino. 102 M. Solmona, see p. 188.

13. From Rome to Castellammare Adriatico vi& Avezzano and Solmona.

149 M. Railwat (no express-trains) in 91/4-HV2 hrs. (fares 27 fr. 15, 19 fr., 12 fr. 25 c).

From Rome to Mandela via Tivoli, see Baedeker's Central Italy. Beyond Mandela the train follows the ancient Via Valeria and the Teverone. — 36 M. Cineto - Romano (diligence to Subiaco); 38 M. Roviano. The railway now leaves the valley of the Teverone and ascends a steep incline to (41 M.) Arsoli, prettily situated on a hill, with a castle of the Massimi. Tunnel. — 42y2 M. Riofreddo, situated on the tributary of the Teverone of that name.

Near (43y2 M.) Cavaliere lay the iEquian town of Carseoli, the ruins of which were used in the middle ages to build Arsoli (see above) and CaTsoli. High up on a hill (3410 ft.) to the S.E. lie the church and convent of 8. Maria dei Bisognosi , with paintings dating from 1488 and a wonder-working crucifix (visited on Sun. by many pilgrims from the surrounding district). — 47 M. Carsoli (Loc. Stella, tolerable), commanded by a picturesque ruined castle.

182 Route 13. AVEZZANO. From Rome

The railway now ascends the narrow valley to (50V2 M.) Colli, beyond which we reach the tunnel of Monte Bove, the longest on the railway (more than 3 M.). 541/2 M. Sante Marie. We then descend to (57 M.) Tagliacozeo, a small town at the mouth of a deep ravine, in which rises the Imele, the Himella of antiquity. The sources of the Liris lie 4!/2 M. to the S., near Cappadocia.

The train now enters the fertile Campi Palentini, the most beautiful part of the territory of the Marsi , surrounded by lofty mountains, the highest of which, the double-peaked Monte Velino (8160 ft.), to the N.E., is visible as far as Rome. Here, on 26th Aug., 1268, the young Conradin of Hohenstaufen , the last scion of that illustrious imperial house , was defeated, notwithstanding the bra- very of his knights, by Charles I. of Anjou , who had placed a part of his army in ambush. — 62 M. Scurcola , dominated by an old castle of the Orsini, with a fine view. In the church of S. Maria is an old carved wooden figure of the Virgin, from the adjacent convent of S. Maria (see below), executed by order of Charles of Anjou.

The train next crosses the Salto, passing on the left the ruins of the abbey of S. Maria della Vittoria, which was built by Charles of Anjou in commemoration of his victory over Conradin (see above). The building , the architect of which was Niccolo Pisano , was, however, soon destroyed. — 63 M. Cappelle Magliano.

67 M. Avezzano (Alb. Vittoria, clean, R., L., & A. 2^4, omn. Y2 f*. ; omnibus from the station to the town 25 c, at night 35 c), a town of 7400 inhab., with a chateau built by the Colonnas and now belonging totheBarberini, is a good starting-point for a number of excursions. The estate-office of Prince Torlonia, at which a permesso to see the reclamation- works at the Lago di Fucino is obtained (gratis), contains a collection of objects found in the lake (see below). — From Avezzano to Aquila, see p. 181.

About 4 M. to the N.E. of Avezzano, at the base of Monte Velino (see below), lies the village of Albe , the ancient Alba Fucentia, reached from Antrosano (one-horse carr. to this point and back 3-4 fr.) by a walk of 3/4 hr. It lay on the confines of the territories of the Vestini, Marsi, and iEqui, and having received a Roman colony of 6000 souls, B.C. 303, it became the most powerful Roman stronghold in the interior of Italy. Three summits (that to the N.E. occupied by the present village) were strongly fortified and connected by a massive polygonal wall. In ascending from Antrosanto we pass extensive remains of this wall , and the castle of the Orsini, in Albe, incorporates some of the masonry of the ancient fortifications. On the S.W. hill is a Temple, which has been converted into a church of S. Pietro, with eight Corinthian columns of marble in the interior (key obtained from the Arciprete or from the Conte Pace in Albe). On the Colle di Pettorino, or S.E. hill, are large polygonal walls. Fine view of the valley.

The Ascent of Monte Velino (8160 ft.) from Avezzano takes 1-2 days. The night is passed at Magliano or Massa d'Albe, whence the top is reached in 6 hrs., with guide.

The now drained Lago di Fucino (2180 ft.), the ancient Lacus Fucinus , was once 37 M. in circumference and 65 ft. in depth.

to Castellammare. LAGO DI FUCINO. 13. Route. 183

Owing to the want of an outlet, the level of the lake was subject to great variations which were frequently fraught with disastrous results to the inhabitants of the banks. Attempts were therefore made to drain the lake in ancient times , but it was only very re- cently (in 1875) that this object was finally accomplished.

The earliest sufferers from the inundations were the ancient Marsi, in consequence of whose complaints Csesar formed the project of affording a permanent remedy for the evil , but the work was not begun till the reign of the Emp. Claudius. The bottom of the lake lies about 80 ft. above the level of the Liris at Capistrello, and the plan was to con- struct a tunnel, or emissarius , through the intervening Monte Salviano. No fewer than 30,000 men were employed in the execution of the work during eleven years. This was the most gigantic undertaking of the kind ever known before the construction of the Mont Cenis tunnel. The length of the passage was upwards of 3'/2 M., and for about i3/t M. of that distance it was hewn in the solid rock. The transverse measurement of the tunnel varied from 4 to 16 sq. yds., and in other respects also the work was entirely destitute of uniformity. The greatest depth of the tunnel below the surface of the earth was 298 ft., and 33 shafts were constructed for the admission of air and the removal of rubbish. With a view to inaugurate the completion of the work, A.D. 52, Claudius arranged a sanguinary gladiatorial naval contest, which was attended by a vast concourse of spectators, but it was found necessary to deepen the tunnel, and it was again opened with renewed festivities, as Tacitus re- cords (Ann. xii. 57). Ancient writers stigmatise the work as an entire failure, but their strictures are not altogether well founded, for it was obviously never intended to drain the whole lake, but merely to reduce it to one-third of its original size. Serious errors had, however, been committed in the construction of the tunnel, and especially in that of the channel which conducted the water to the emissarius. Claudius died in 54, and nothing farther was done in the matter. Trajan and Hadrian partially remedied the defects, but the channel and the emissarius itself afterwards became choked up. Frederick II. attempted to re-open the tunnel, but the task was far beyond the reach of mediaeval skill. After the year 1783 the lake rose steadily, and by 1810 it had risen upwards of 30 ft. Efforts were now made under the superintendence of Rivera to restore the Roman emissarius, but under the Bourbon regime there seemed little prospect that the task would ever be completed. In 1852 the govern- ment was accordingly induced to make a grant of the lake to a company on condition that they would undertake to drain it, and the sole privilege was soon afterwards purchased from them by Prince Torlonia of Rome (d. 1886). M. de Montricher, a Swiss, the constructor of the aqueduct of Marseilles (d. at Naples in 1858), and his pupil Bermont (d. 1870), and subsequently M. Brisse conducted the works. The difficulties encountered were pro- digious, and the natives were frequently heard to indulge in the jest, 'o Torlonia secca il Fucino, o il Fucino secca Torlonia'. In 1862, however, the emissarius was at length re-opened. It is an extension of the Roman work, but longer and wider, and constructed with the utmost care. It is nearly 4 M. long, and a transverse section measures about 21 sq. yds. The beginning of it is marked by a huge lock, erected in a massive style. This is the outlet of the channel which is intended to keep the lowest portions of the basin drained. A broad road, about 35 M. in length, runs round the reclaimed land (36,000 acres in extent) , which is con- verted into a vast model farm, colonised by families from the prince's different estates.

An excursion to Luco, about 6 M. from Avezzano, will afford the traveller a good opportunity of inspecting the drainage operations (permesso ne- cessary, see p. 182). He should drive to the entrance of the new outlet (Ineile) , and get the custodian to conduct him thence to the ancient emissarius. — Luco, now an uninteresting place, was the Lucus Angitiae of the ancients, and was called after a temple of the goddess of that name.

184 Route 13. SOLMONA. From Rome

The site of the temple is now occupied by the venerable Benedictine church of S. Maria di Luco, situated on the N. side of the village, and dating from the 6th or 7th century. Extensive remains of walls in the polygonal style mark the boundary of the Temenos , or sacred precincts of the temple. Fine view hence, as well as from all the hills around the lake.

70 M. Paterno. — 73 M. Celano, a town with 7000 inhab., is beautifully situated on a Mil, and from it the Lago di Fucino is sometimes called Lago di Celano. The Castle (*View), erected in 1450, was once occupied by the unfortunate Countess Covella, who was taken prisoner by her son Rugierotto. Celano was the birth- place of Thomas of Celano (d. 1253), the supposed author of the celebrated Latin requiem, 'Dies irae, dies ilia'.

The train skirts the N. side of theformer lake, andbeyond [75 M.J Ajelli begins to ascend. 77 M. Cerchio. Tunnel. 79 M. Collarmele, in the narrow valley of the Oiovenco. — 82 M. Pescina, the seat of a bishop and birthplace of Card. Mazarin (1602-1661). The village of S. Benedetto , 2^2 M. to the S.W., occupies the site of Marru- vium, the capital of the Marsi, remains of which are still visible. — 85 M. Carrito Ortona, picturesquely perched on an isolated rock.

On quitting the (iiovenco valley the train penetrates the central ridge of the Abruzzi by the tunnel of Monte Curro (2!/5 M.) , the second in length on the line. Beyond (89 M.) Cocullo, in a sequester- ed upland valley, we thread the tunnel of Monte Luparo (1 M. long) and cross the watershed between the valleys of Fucino and Sol- mona. 92 M. Ooriano-Sicoli. — Beyond the following tunnel we obtain a splendid **View of the valley of Solmona. Nearly 1000 ft. below us lies Rajano Inferiore ; farther off , Pentima with the soli- tary cathedral of S. Pelino (p. 186); in the middle distance, the isolated hill of S. Cosmo (2210 ft.) ; in the background the im- posing mass of the Majella. — 931/2 M. Rajano Superiore , nearly 3 M. from Rajano Inferiore, which is a station on the Solmona and Aquila railway (p. 181).

The train now descends rapidly along the side of the valley, passing through several tunnels, to (95 M.) Prezza. It then runs to the S.E. through the picturesque valley of the Sagittario, crossing that stream beyond (100 M.) Anversa Scanno by a two-storied via- duct of 16 arches. 103 M. Bugnara.

107 M. Solmoua. — The station is about 1/2 M. from the town (omni- bus 30 c). — Hotels. Albeego Toscano, well spoken of; Alb. MoNzir, at the gate, near the railway-station, R. lfr., tolerable. — Caffi in the main street.

Solmona (1570 ft.), with 18,500 inhab., the ancient Sulmo of the Paeligni, the birthplace of Ovid, who was much attached to this his 'cool home, abounding in water', as he calls it, is picturesquely situated, being commanded on two sides by mountains, and con- tains several mediseval buildings of architectural interest. The palace of Baron Tabassi, in a side-street, and several others de- serve examination. The church of 8. Maria Annunziata , and the Gothic facades of the churches of S. Francesco a" Assist and S. Maria

to Castellammare. ISERNIA. 13. Route. 185

delta Tomba, though all more or less injured by the earthquake of 1706, are also interesting. The church of S. Francesco was built on the site of an older church, a Romanesque portal of which, opposite the above-mentioned hotel, is still preserved, and serves as an entrance to the meat-market. In front of it are an aqueduct of 1256 and a tasteful fountain in the Renaissance style (1474). At the door of the grammar-school is a statue of Ovid in blackish stone, dating from the 15th cent.; the name of the poet still lingers in the songs of the district as that of a famous sorcerer. The strong fermented wine ('vino cotto') of Solmona has some reputation.

About 3 M. to the N. of Solmona, and H/2 M. from the station, lies the Badia di S. Spirito, the church of which contains some paintings by Ra- phael Mengs. Adjacent are extensive remains of the foundations of a Ro- man building known as the 'Villa di Ovidio'. On the rock above the ruins, picturesquely situated, is the Hermitage of Celestine V. (comp. p. 17S).

About 16 M. to the S. of Solmona lies Scanno (3445 ft.), reached on a mule in about 6 hrs. (walking not recommended). The picturesque route passes several villages, and then ascends the wild and rocky ravine of the Sagittario. The latter part of it skirts the lake of Scanno. Scanno (no inn, private introductions desirable) is perhaps the finest point in the Abruzzi. The women of Scanno wear a peculiar costume.

The Monte Amaro (9170 ft.), the highest summit of the Majella Mis., may he ascended from Solmona. Riding is practicable to the Catnpo di Oiove, 3-4 hrs.; thence to the top (refuge-hut) 5 hrs.

From Solmona to Caianello (Naples), ca. 75 M. Diligence to Rocca Ravindola daily in 9 hrs., starting in the evening. At Rocca Ravindola we reach the railway and at Caianello catch the express to Naples. Carr. and pair from Solmona to (25 M.) Castel di Sangro, 12 fr. — The road traverses the plain to (6 M.) Pettorano and then ascends circuitously to Rocca Pia or Rocca Valloscura, a village in a rocky ravine. Fine retro- spects of the valley of Solmona. Beyond Rocca we ascend to the Piano di Cinquemiglia (4265 ft.), a mountain-girt upland plain, the extent of which is indicated by its name. In winter this plain is often impassable for months on account of the snow, and even in summer the temperature is low. After passing the plain we see Rivisondoli to the left. Roccarasa is passed on the right. The road then winds down to the valley of the Sangro, the ancient Sagrus. The village to the left is Rocca Cinquemiglia. We cross the river and reach —

25 M. Castel di Sangro (Hdlel du Commerce, in the Piazza), picturesquely situated at the foot of lofty mountains, on the right bank of the wide and rapid Sangro. Its only objects of interest are a ruined castle and the old church of S. Nicola, by the bridge.

The road to Isernia (22 M.) ascends the hills separating the valley of the Sangro from that of the Vandra, an affluent of the Volturno. Fine view at the top; below, to the left, the town of Forli. We descend through the villages of Rionera and Vandria, cross the valley, and ascend another range of hills, on the crest of which we obtain a view of Isernia and the wide valley of the Volturno.

47 M. Isernia (Loc. di Pettorossi), the ancient Samnite town of J2semia, formerly of importance on account of its strong situation on an isolated hill, now consists mainly of one long, narrow , and dirty main street. A few Roman remains are visible at the church of S. Pietro and elsewhere, and also some relics of the ancient polygonal walls.

Archaeologists may make an excursion hence to Pietrabbondante, with the ruins (theatre and temple) of the Samnite Bovianum. Road to (9 M.) Petcolanciano (diligence at 10.30 a.m. ; corricolo6fr.); thence bridle-path 5 M.

From Isernia a diligence runs daily to Campobasso (p. 191), via Boiano,

186 Route 13. CHIETI.

the ancient Bovianum Undecimanorum. One-horse carr. from Isernia to Venafro 6 fr.

Feom Iseknia to Caianello, ca. 28 M., railway in progress (open from Rocca Ravindola). The road at first traverses a hilly district , passing Macchia on the right, and then enters the valley of the Volturno, which it crosses. 10 M. Rocca Ravindola. — From Rocca Ravindola to Caianello, 18 M., railway in 1 hr. 5 M. Venafro, the ancient Vena/rum, a small town rising on a hill, famous for its oil in the days of Horace (Od. ii. 6); it is commanded by a ruined castle. The railway skirts the mountains. 8 M. Sesto Campano; 10 M. Sesto Capriati; 1372 M. Presenzano (see p. 6), 18 M. Caianello (poor inn, not suitable for spending the night), a small village and a station on the railway from Rome to Naples.

From Caianello to Naples, see R. 1.

The railway now bends sharply to the N. , towards the Talley of the Aterno. — HO1/^ M. Pratola-Peligna.

113 M. Pentima. A short distance hence is the Cathedral of *8. Pelino (keys kept by the canon at the village), an edifice of the 13th century. The architecture is very interesting, but the interior has unfortunately been modernised. Old pulpit. Chapel of St. Alexander of the 16th century.

On the lofty surrounding plain lie the ruins of the extensive ancient city of Corflnium, once the capital of the Pseligni. In B.C. 90 it was consti- tuted the federal capital of the Italians during their struggle against the Romans for independence, and called Italica, but a few years later it had to succumb to the Romans. The discoveries made in the course of the recent excavations at the necropolis and other points are exhibited in the small Museum here, the key of which may be obtained from the attentive Inspettore Cav. de Nino at Solmona (interesting for archaeologists only).

116!/2M. P opoli f'Locanda dell' America, moderate; Posta), a town with 7000 inhab., situated at the junction of the roads from Pescara, Aquila, Avezzano, and Solmona, and commanded by the ruined castle of the Cantelmi, who were once masters of the place. A little above the town the Gizio and Aterno unite to form the Pescara, along which the railway descends till it approaches the sea.

118V2 M. Bussi. The valley is enclosed on both sides by abrupt cliffs. Tunnel. — 125'/2M. Torre de' Passeri, picturesquely situated. Connoisseurs of early Christian architecture should visit the ab- bey of <S. Clemente di Casauria, l'/4 M. from Torre de' Passeri, a basilica of the 12th cent., with ancient sculptures. This was the site of the ancient Interpromium, relics from which are still pre- served in the church.

1291/2 M. 8. Valentino; 13iy2 M. Alanno; 135M. Manoppello.

140 M. Chieti. — The Station is about 3 M. from the town, which lies on the heights to the E. (omnibus 60 c, in the reverse direction 50 c); about halfway the road passes a ruined baptistery.

Hotels in the town: *Albergo del Sole, R. l'/a fr., good trattoria; Albeego Ndovo ; Palomba d' Oko.

Chieti (1065 ft.), the ancient Teate Marrucinorum, capital of a province, with 22,000 inhab., is a clean and busy town. From the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele a promenade leads round the town, affording magnificent *Views of the Maiella group, the course of the Pescara, and the hill country extending to the sea (the finest from the drilling-ground on the S.). The order of the Tlieatines founded

SORA. 14. Route. 187

in 1555 by Paul IV., who had been Archbishop of Chieti, derives "its name from this town.

The valley of thePescara gradually expands. Beyond (1481/2M.) Pescara (p. 190) the line crosses the river. — 149 M. Castellam- mare Adriatico, see p. 190.

14. From Avezzano to Roccasecca (Naples).

Fkom Avezzano to Roccasecca, about 50 M. ; diligence daily (at 1 a.m.) in 7'/4 hrs. to Sora; from Sora to Roccasecca railway. The diligence corresponds with the trains of the Rome and Naples railway.

Avezzano, see p. 182. The drive through the valley of the Liris to Roccasecca (railway under construction) is one of the most attract- ive in Italy. The road traverses the Monte Salviano, and reaches (7J/2 M.) Capistrello, where the emissarius of the Lago di Fucino (see p. 182) issues from the mountain. It then follows the left bank of the Liris. The imposing pyramid of Monte Viglio (7075 ft. ; as- cended from Filettino on the W. side), to the W. of Liris, domin- ates the view. On a height on the right bank lies (4 M.) Civitella Roveto, the capital of the Val di Roveto , as the upper part of the valley of the Liris, as far as Sora, is called. Then, to the left, Civita d'Antino, the Antinum of the Marsi, with several relics of antiquity. To the right of the river lies Morino, whence the fine waterfall of Lo Schioppo, 5 M. distant, may be visited. The beautiful oak and chestnut woods have of late been freely cut down.

A charming mountainous district is now traversed. We pass (12l/2 M.) Balsorano, and after 7 hrs'. drive from Avezzano (in all 31 M.) reach the town of —

Sora (Hdtel di Roma, Alb. di Liri, both with trattorie), with 13,200 inhab., situated in the plain, on the right bank of the Liris, which flows in the form of a semicircle round the crowded houses of the town. The Romans wrested the place from the Volsci, and founded a powerful colony here, B.C. 303. The cathedral stands on ancient substructures. On the precipitous rock above the town, which forms, as it were, the key of the Abruzzi, are remains of polygonal walls, and also traces of mediaeval castles. The town was the native place of several celebrated men, and the residence of others (the Decii, Attilius Regulus, the orator Q. Valerius, L. Mum- mius, etc.). The learned Cardinal Caesar Baronius (1538-1607) was born at Sora.

The Railway from Sora to Roccasecca (20 M., in about 1^2 hr.) traverses the well-cultivated valley, following the left bank of the river. The abundance of water here imparts a freshness and charm to the scenery which are rarely met with in warm climates. To the left the Fibrenus falls into the Liris.

In the Fibrenus, near its mouth, lies the Isola 8. Paolo, on which a monastery was founded by the Benedictine S. Domehico Abbate, a native of Foligno. Hildebrand, afterwards Pope Gregory VII., was once a monk here. The island is also supposed to be the Insula Arpinas, the

188 Route 14. ISOLA.

birthplace of Cicero, the scene of his dialogue 'de legibus'. The abbey- church, recently restored, is an interesting edifice of the 12th century. Cicero's villa was erected by his grandfather, and embellished by his father, who devoted his leisure to the study of science here, and it was therefore a favourite retreat of Cicero himself, and is described by him in his treatise De Leg. 2, 3. In the reign of Domitian the villa belonged to the poet Silius Italicus. The Liris was crossed by an ancient bridge above the island, the '■Ponle di Cicerone ', one of the three arches of which is still standing.

In the neighbourhood are several manufactories, chiefly of paper (cartiera), surrounded by well-kept gardens. The *Gardens con- nected with the former Cartiera del Fibreno, founded by M. Lefevre, a Frenchman, now Count of Balzorano, contain the picturesque wa- terfalls (Le Cascatelle) of the Liris and the Fibrenus. The cool water of the latter is praised by Cicero.

3y2 M. Isola (Alb. d'ltalia, outside the town, unpretending), or Isola Liri , a small town with 6000 inhab. , which , as its name indicates, stands on an island in the Liris. The two anns of the river here form two magnificent waterfalls, 80 ft. in height. That on the E. side, a view of which is obtained from the bridge as the town is entered, is a perpendicular fall, while the other and more pictur- esque cascade, to see which we cross the second bridge and keep to the right, is broken by the rocks into several arms.

About 3 jr. to the W. of Isola (good road; carr. 3-4 fr.) lies the abbey of SS. Giovanni e Paolo di Casamari, now declared national property, with a well-preserved "'Church of the heginning of the 12th century. The name preserves the memory of the birthplace of Marius at Cereatae, afterwards known as Cereatae Marianae.

7 M. Arpino, station for the town of that name situated high above the valley. Arpino (Locanda della Pace, near the Piazza) is a finely situated town with 12,000 inhab., the ancient Volscian mountain-town of Arpinum, and celebrated as the home of Marius (see above) and Cicero. The Town Hall in the Piazza is embellished with busts of Marius, Cicero, and Agrippa. Arpino was the native place of the well-known painter Giuseppe Cesari (1560-1640), more commonly known as the Cavaliere d' Arpino, whose house is still pointed out.

The present town occupies only a small part of the site of the ancient Arpinum. The citadel of the latter lay on an abrupt emin- ence, connected with the town by a narrow isthmus and now occupied by the small octagonal church of S. Maria della Civitcl (view). The town itself rose on the slope of a still higher hill. The greater part of the ancient wall, consisting of large irregular blocks of stone, broken at intervals by mediaeval round towers, is still preserved, and may be traced throughout its whole extent. The ascent should be made on the N. side. On the hill stands the Porta dell Arco, a remarkable gateway with a pointed arch.

IOV2 M. Fontane. — 13y2 M. Arce, in a strikingly picturesque situation. — The line here quits the valley of the Liris, and runs to the S. E. to (20 M.) Boccasecca; seep. 3.

189 15. From Ancona to Foggia (Brindisi).

201 M. Railway in 83/i-12 hrs.; fares 36 fr. 50, 25 fr. 55, 14 fr. 60 c. (3rd class by express 18 fr. 25 c). — Ancona is 347 M. -distant from Brin- disi, to which an express train runs daily in 15'/4 hrs. in correspondence with the quick trains from Milan and Bologna (fares 62 fr. 90 c, 44 fr. 5, 31 fr. 45 c.) ; also once weekly (Sun.) in ll3/4 hrs. (from Bologna to Brindisi 153/4hrs.), in connection with the English mail to India, carrying first-class passengers to Brindisi only. The local trains stop for the night at Pescara or Foggia.

The line skirts the coast, affording a sea view to the left, and an in- land view to the right. The towns, generally situated on the heights, at some distance from the railway, communicate regularly with their stations by diligence ; but these Vehicles have little pretension to comfort.

From Ancona -via, (372 M.) Varano, (10 M.) Osimo, (15 M.) Loreto, (17V2 M.) Porto Recanati, and (23 M.) Potenza Picena to (261/a M.) Porto Civitanova, see Baedeker's Central Italy. — Porto Civitanova, at the mouth of the Chienti, is the station for the town of Civitanova, -which lies l1^ M. inland. A railway runs hence to Fabriano via. Macerata and Albacina (see Badeker's Central Italy).

The railway to Foggia and Brindisi crosses the Chienti. 31 M. iS. Elpidio a Mare. The village of 8. Elpidio lies several miles inland. — The Tenna is next crossed.

36!/2 M. Porto S. Giorgio, with a handsome castle.

On the hill , 3 M. inland , is situated Fermo (Locanda delV Aquila ; seat in a carriage 50 c), the ancient Firmurn Picerwm, with 18,000 inhab., and the seat of an archbishop. It became a Roman colony after the begin- ning of the First Punic War, and has continued since that period to be a town of some importance. At the Porta S. Francesco, by which the town is entered , are seen remnants of the ancient wall , constructed at a very remote period. The streets ascend somewhat precipitously to the height on which the handsome Piazza is situated ; the Town Sail here contains some inscriptions and antiquities. Outside the town we obtain fine views of the fertile district, the Apennines, and the sea.

The train next crosses the brooks Lete Vivo and Aso. 43 M. Pedaso; 48 M. Cupra Marittima; 50 M. Orottammare (Pens. Giusti, pens. 5 fr., open also in winter), frequented for sea-bathing. On the hill, about 4!/2 M. inland, is Ripatransone (6000 inhab.). Near Cupra Marittima (Marano) once lay the ancient town of that name, with a celebrated temple dedicated to the Sabine goddess Cupra, and restored by Hadrian in A.D. 127.

53 M. 8. Benedetto (Inn at the station) , a village on the coast.

Feom S.Benedetto to Ascoli Piceno, 2O1/2M., railwayin lV4hr. (fares 3 fr. 75, 2 fr. 65, 1 fr. 70 c). The train ascends the valley of the Tronto, passing Porto d'Ascoli, Monteprandone, Montesampolo. Spinetoli-Colli, Offida- Cattel di Lama, and Marino. — Ascoli Piceno (' "Locanda delV Aquila, mode- rate), the ancient Asculum Picenum, with 23,300 inhab., the seat of a bishop and capital of a province, is situated on the S. bank of the Tronto. The valley is here contracted and enclosed by lofty mountains. To the N. rises the jagged Monte deW Ascensione (3610 ft.), to the W. the Sibilla, and more to the S. the Pizzo di Sevo. Ascoli, an ancient town in a commanding situation, the capital of the tribe of Picentines, took a prominent part in the Social War against Rome, and was captured and destroyed by Pompey. Interesting remains of the ancient walls, a bridge, and a "Gate at the W. end of the town. The town-hall contains a few inscriptions, and other relics are encountered in other parts of the town , e. g. insignificant vestiges of a.

190 Route 15. TERAMO. From Ancona

theatre and amphitheatre. The architecture of the churches and palaces dates chiefly from a period anterior to the Renaissance, materially en- hancing the interest of the town , which is indeed the most attractive on the E. coast of S. Italy. The ''Cathedral is said to have been founded by Constantine on the site of a temple of Hercules. The original sub- structures are still traceable. A chapel on the right in the interior con- tains good pictures by Crivelli. In jS. Vittore, Romanesque mural paint- ings of the 12th and 13th cent, were discovered under the whitewash in 1890. — Mountain-roads lead hence via, Norcia to Spoleto, and others through the valleys of the Velino and Aterno to Aquila (p. 178).

Beyond (56 M.) Porto d'Ascoli the train crosses the Tronto, the ancient Truentus, formerly the boundary between the States of the Church and the kingdom of Naples. 62 M. Tortoreto.

68 M. Giulianova, a dirty village with a few fine villas on the hill, 1^4 M. from the coast, built in the 15th cent, by the inhabi- tants of the ancient Castrum Novum on the Tordino, and then nam- ed S. Flaviano.

Fkom Giulianova to Teeamo, 16 M., railway in lhr. (fares 2fr. 95, 2fr. 10, 1 fr. 35 c). The train ascends the valley of the Tordino, passing Mosciano- S. Angela, Notaresco, Bellante- Ripattone , Castellalto-Camano. — Teramo (Albergo Pellegrino, Via Delfico; Caffe Zippetta, Corso S. Giorgio; omn. from the station to the town , 1/t-l/t fr)i the ancient Interamna , is the capital of a province and seat of a bishop, with 20,400 inhabitants. The Gothic cathedral is now modernised; in the interior is an antependium by the goldsmith Nicola di Guardiagrele (15th cent.). — A road ascends the valley of the Vomano from Teramo , passing Montorio and Fano Adriano, ascending between the Monte Piano (5645 ft.) and the Monte Cardilo, leaving Monte S. Franco (7000 ft.) to the S., and then descending in many curves past S. Vittorino (p. 180) where several roads meet, to Aquila (p. 178). — Ascent of the Gran Sasso d'ltalia, see p. 180.

The train crosses the Tordino, the ancient Batinus, and then beyond (73 M.) Montepagano the Vomano (Vomanus). To the right a fine yiew is obtained of the Gran Sasso d'ltalia (p. 180), which is here visible from base to summit. — 79!/2 M. Atri-Mutignano.

Atri (1390 ft.; "Albergo di Vine. Marcone), 6 M. inland (diligence daily, 1 fr. 25 c. ; other conveyances rarely obtainable), the ancient Batria, an epis- copal residence, with 10,000 inhab., is a town of great antiquity, and was once celebrated for its copper coins. Numerous ruins bear testimony to its ancient importance. The Gothic cathedral, with its frescoes and a 15th cent, painting of the Madonna adoring the child, merits a visit. It rests on extensive foundations of ancient origin, perhaps those of a temple. Extensive *View from the campanile. Several large grottoes near the town are also of very remote date.

The train now crosses the Piomba, the ancient Matrinus, 5 M. inland from which is situated Citth Santangelo (7000 inhab.). 84 M. Silvi ; 87 M. Montesilvano.

Penne, 16 M. inland, the capital of the district, with 10,000 inhab., was the Pinna of the ancients, and chief town of the Vestini, of which period various relics still exist.

90 M. Castellammare Adriatico, junction for the lines to Terni and Aquila, and to Rome, Avezzano, and Solmona (see RR. 12, 13). — The train next crosses the Pescara river.

92 M. Pescara {Alb. Rebecchino, near the station, with trattoria, clean; Leone d'Oro; Railway Restaurant, mediocre and dear), a fortified town with 5500 inhab., is situated in an unhealthy plain.

to Foggia. TERMOLI. 15. Route. 191

The mountain-group of the Majella , culminating in Monte Amaro (9160 ft.), now becomes visible on the right.

The train crosses the Alento. 96 M. Francavilla, a village on the hill to the right. Beyond it a mountain-spur projects into the sea. Four short tunnels. Beyond the third the fort of Ortona becomes visible on the left.

105 M. Ortona. The town (Caprera; Cafe in the Piazza), y2 M. from the station, the ancient Ortona, a seaport-town of the Fren- tani, is a tolerably clean and well-built place (12,000 inhab.), situated on a lofty promontory, with a small quay on the shore below. Beautiful views towards the S. as far as the Punta di Penna (see below), especially from the ancient and dilapidated fort. The archi- tecture of the cathedral should be inspected.

Beyond Ortona the train passes through another tunnel and crosses two brooks. 109^2 M. S. Vito Lanciano is the station for Lanciano, 6 M. inland, with 18,000 inhab., the ancient Anxanum. Between S. Vito and the next station (113 M.) Fossacesia are three tunnels, beyond which we obtain a pleasing survey of the peninsula, terminating in the Punta di Penna.

Near (116 M.) Torino di Sangro the train crosses the Sangro, Lat. Sagrus. 122 M. Casalbordino. Three tunnels, beyond which Vasto becomes visible, on an olive-clad hill on the right. 131 M. Vasto. The town lies on the hill, I1/4 M. from the station.

Vasto d'Aimone (Locanda delV Indipendenza ; Loc. del Peace; Cafft Nazionale), the ancient Histonium, with 14,000 inhab., lies high, and commands fine views as far as the Tremiti islands and Monte Gargano. The small cathedral with a Gothic facade bears a memorial tablet to General 'Carlo Antonio Manhes, distruttore de' briganti, primo cittadino del Vasto', date 1810. A small museum in the town-hall contains inscriptions and other relics found here. In the environs are extensive olive-plantations.

Beyond (134 M.) S. Salvo the train crosses the Trigno , Lat. Trinius. 139 M. Montenero.

14772 M. Termoli (Alb. fy Trattoria della Corona), a smalltown close to the sea , with mediaeval walls, excessively dirty. Charming survey of the Majella and Abruzzi, and farther on of the Tremiti Islands (the Insulae Diomedeae of mythology, still serving, as in antiquity , as a place of confinement) and Monte Gargano in the distance. The cathedral , with a Gothic facade , contains a number of quaintly decorated saints.

From Termoli to Benevento via Campobasso, 107 M. , railway in 7V4-10 hrs. (fares 19 fr. 45, 13 fr. 65, 8 fr. 65 c). Usually no tiain in direct connection from Campobasso. The journey on the whole is monotonous. 5'/2 M. Ouglionesi- Portoccmnone; 10 M. S. Martino in Pensilis; 17'/2 M. Vruri Rotello; 23 M. Larino, near the ruins of the ancient Larinum; 31 M. Casacalenda; 33Vs M. Bonefro; 3672 M. Ripabottoni-Sant-Elia; 411/2M. Cam- polieto-Monacilione; 47 M. Matrice- Montagano ; 52 M. Ripalimosano. — 55 M. Campobasso (Alb. Centrales Leone), the capital of a province, and a place of some importance, with 15,000 inhab., is noted for its steel wares. — 59'/2 M.

192 Route 15. FOGGIA.

From Ancona

Baranello; 62 M. Vinchiaturo. — The railway here begins to descend the valley of the Tanaro. 69 M. S. Giuliano del Sannio. — 71 1/2 M. Sepino; in the neighbourhood are the extensive ruins of the ancient Saepinum, now Altilia. — 75'/2 M. S. Croce del Sannio; 80 M. Morcone; 85 M. Pontelan- dolfo; 86V2M. Campolattaro ; 90 M. Fragneto Monforte ; 92 M. Pescolamazza: IO41/2 M. Pietra Elcina. — 107 M. Benevento, see p. 204.

Beyond Termoli, where the cactus first makes its appearance, the scenery is less attractive. The train crosses the Biferno, Lat. Tifernus. 152 M. Campomarino, 158 M. Chieuti, Albanian settle- ments. From Chieuti a road runs to the town of Serracapriola. We next cross the Fortore, the ancient Frento.

165 M. Bipalta.

Near Ripalta, on 15th June, 1503, the Normans defeated and captured Pope Leo IX. , and then , falling on their knees , implored his blessing. Leo, relenting, imparted it, and subsequently conferred Apulia, Calabria, and Sicily on the brothers Humfred and Robert Guiscard, a grant which was ultimately fraught with consequences so important to Rome and the papal throne, as well as to the Normans.

To the N.E. is the Lago di Lesina, which communicates with the sea. The train now proceeds inland, in order to avoid the promontory of Monte Oargano (p. 192), a buttress of the Apennines projecting into the sea, with several peaks about 3300ft. in height. 1741/4 M. Poggio Imperiale; 177 M. Apricena; 184 M. San Severo, a dirty town with 17,500 inhab., which, after a gallant resistance, was taken and almost entirely destroyed by the French in 1799. The cholera committed fearful ravages here in 1865. 191 M. Motta.

201M. Foggia. — Restaurant at the station. The town is •/» M. distant; cab lji fr. — In the Town: Albekgo di Milano ; Locanda <fe Risto- eatoee Roma, in the main street, very mediocre.

Foggia, the capital of a province formerly called the Capitanata, and the junction of the coast-railway and the line to Benevento and Naples (R. 17), is a clean, thriving town, with 40,300 inhabi- tants. It is well situated in a commercial point of view, and forms the central point of the great Apulian plain. The name is probably derived from the pits or cellars (Lat. foveae , now called fosse di grano~), in which the inhabitants store their grain. On the left, opposite the first houses of the town, 4/4 M. from the station, is a portico forming the entrance to the Oiardino Pubblico, which is adorned with several busts. Beyond these public grounds is a bo- tanic garden. The main street which we follow now takes the name of Corso Vittorio Emanuele. To the left in the piazza planted with trees rises a monument to Vincenzo Lanza (1784-1860), a physician and patriot, who was born at Foggia. After 5 min. we cross the Corso del Teatro and reach the Piazza Federico II. , adorned with a foun- tain (Pozzo dell' Imperatore), situated in the older part of the town. The name is a reminiscence of the Emperor Frederick II., who fre- quently resided at Foggia. Built into the wall of a modern house, in the side-street to the right, is a gateway belonging to the old pal- ace of the emperor, bearing an inscription of the year 1223 relative to the foundation. Leaving the Piazza Federico II. and turning to

to Foggia. MANFREDONIA. 1-5. Route. 193

the left, we soon reach the Cathedral, which was originally erected by the Normans, partly destroyed by an earthquake in 1731, and af- terwards re-erected in a modern style. Part of the old facade only now exists.

A great part of the spacious , treeless plain around Foggia is used as a sheep-pasture (Tavoliere delta Puglia). During the summer the flocks graze on the mountains, and in October return to the plain by three great routes (Tratturi delle Pecore). These migrations, during which hundreds of flocks may be encountered in one day , date from the Roman period. Alphonso I. , who introduced the merino sheep , converted the pastures into a royal domain in 1445. The number of sheep supported by these pastures amounted to 4V2 million at the close of the 16th cent., but owing to the progress of agriculture, is now reduced to less than half a million.

About 3 M. to the N. of Foggia are the scanty remains of the ancient town of Arpi, said to have been founded by Diomedes, and afterwards replaced by Foggia.

From Foggia to Manfeedonia, 22>/2 M., railway in 1 hr. (fares 4 fr. 10, 2 fr. 85, 1 fr. 85 c). — 10 M. Amendola; 15 M. Fontanarosa. — 22V2 M. Man- fredonia, a quiet town with 8500 inhab. and the seat of an archbishop, was founded by King Manfred about 1263, and destroyed by the Turks in 1620. It now contains no buildings of importance, but part of the mediseval forti- fications is well preserved. Owing to the sheltered situation of the town, to the S. of Monte Gargano, the vegetation is very luxuriant, resembling that of Sicily in character. — About 2 M. to the W. of Manfredonia, on the road to Foggia, is the v Cathedral of 8. Maria Maggiore di Siponto, a fine example of the Romanesque style, with a crypt. The tastelessly restored interior con- tains a 'miracle-working' Madonna and numerous votive tablets. This church is part of the scanty remains of the old 8ipontum, which became a Roman colony in B. C. 194. Other interesting remains of the old town have come to light in recent excavations. The road also passes 8. Leonardo, converted into a commandery of the Teutonic Order in the time of Her- mann von Salza, with two fine portals, now used as a 'Masseria1, or farm- house , and very dilapidated.

A road, at first traversing olive-plantations, and then ascending in windings, leads hence to (IOV2 M.) Monte Santangelo (2655 ft.), with a pic- turesque castle, and a famous old sanctuary of 8. Michele, where a great festival is celebrated on 8th May. The chapel consists of a grotto to which 55 steps descend, and where, as the legend runs, St. Michael appear- ed to St. Laurentius , Archbishop of Sipontum, in 491. In the 11th cent, the warlike Normans undertook pilgrimages to this sacred spot before they became masters of the country. The bronze doors, with scenes from Script- ure, bear the inscription : 'Hoc opus completum est in regia urbe Constan- tinopoli adjuvante Dno Pantaleone qui fieri jussit anno ab incarnatione Dni Millesimo Septuagesimo Sexto1 (comp. p. 170). — From this point 31. Calvo, the culminating point of Monte Gargano (3460 ft.), is most easily ascended. Between Monte Santangelo and Vico lies the extensive and beautiful beech- forest called Bosco delV Umbra, which stretches towards the sea. Farther to the N. is Ischitella; towards the E., on the coast, is Viesti. The roads are bad, and suitable for riding and walking only.

From Foggia to Luceka, 12'/2 M., railway in about 40 min. (fares 2 fr. 30, i fr. 60, 1 fr. 5 c.) ; three trains daily. The line ascends gradually through arable land.

Lucera (Albergo d'ltalia), a town with 14,500 inhab., the ancient Lu- ceria , was regarded as the key of Apulia, owing to its situation. It is first heard of during the Samnite wars, and in B.C. 314 it became a Roman colony. It continued to be an important and prosperous town down to the 7th cent, after Christ, but was destroyed in 663. It was at length restored by Frederick II. , who in 1223 transplanted a colony of Saracens hither from Sicily, bestowing on them entire religious freedom. They were in consequence staunch adherents of the Hohenstaufen family, and accorded an asylum to the wife and children of Manfred alter the battle of Bene-

Baedekeb. Italy III. 11th Edition. 13

194 Route 15. MELFI. From Ancona

vento. They were, however, subdued by Charles of Anjou in 1269 , and in 1300, after an attempt to throw off the yoke of Charles II., were com- pelled to embrace Christianity.

The town lies on a lofty plain, which slopes imperceptibly towards the S. and E., and abruptly towards the N. and W. On the W. side the plateau projects, forming a kind of peninsula, on which stands the ad- mirably preserved "Castle (keys at the Municipio), erected by Frederick, but dating in its present form from the reign of Charles I. It is an in- teresting example of a mediaeval stronghold , and occupies the site of the ancient arx. The 'View embraces the plain bounded by the Apennines and Monte Gargano; to the N. lies the town of S. Severo, and to the E. stretches the sea. The isolated mountain to the S. is the Monte Vulture near Melfi, the summit of which commands a survey of the whole of Apu- lia. — The old Cathedral, which had fallen into ruin in the time of Fred- erick II., was restored in the Gothic style after the conversion of the Saracens by the Anjevins. The pilasters of the nave are in verde antico. The right transept contains a beautiful figure of the Madonna in marble, on a monument of 1605. Below the choir is a crypt. — A few inscriptions dating from the ancient municipium, which far exceeded the modern town in extent, are preserved in the library of the municipio, or town-hall. There are slight traces of an amphitheatre on the E. side of the town.

On the road to S. Severo, 6 M. from Lucera, lay the Castel Fiorentino, where Frederick II., after a reign of 38 years as a German king, died in 1250, in his 56th year.

From Foggia xo Rapolla-Lavello, 45 M., railway in 21/-2 hrs. (fares 8 fr. 25, 5 fr. 80, 3 fr. 75 c). — 5V2 M. Cervaro, seep. 207 ; 11 M. Ordona, the ancient Herdonia, with an ancient bridge, am- phitheatre, tombs, etc. ; 19Y2 M. Ascoli Satriano (Albergo di Roma, clean), 1V2M- fr°m tne station (cab !/2 fr."), charmingly situated, the ancient Ausculum Apulum, famed for the victory gained here by Pyrrhus over the Romans, B.C. 279; 24y2 M. Candela. — 31 M. Rocchetto S. Antonio. — The railway now descends the valley of the Ofanto, the Aufidus of the ancients, to (39 M.) S. Nicola, and thence ascends, to the S., the valley of the little Rendina to —

45 M. Rapolla-Lavello, the present terminus. King Conrad IV. died at Lavello in 1254. The railway is to be continued to Qioia del Colle (p. 200).

Pending the opening of the railway from Rocchetta to Melfi and Potenza, Rapolla-Lavello is the best starting-point for the excursion to (2 hrs. to the W.) —

Melfi (2065 ft.), with 13,000 inhab., picturesquely situated on the slope of Monte Vulture, and largely rebuilt since an earthquake in 1857. It possesses an old castle of the Norman sovereigns, who often resided here, now restored by Prince Doria as a chateau. Here, in 1059, Pope Nicholas II. invested Robert Guiscard with the duchies of Apulia and Calabria. The magnificent Cathedral of 1155, almost entirely destroyed by the earthquake, has since been modernised. The town-hall contains a fine Roman sarcophagus.

From this point the conspicuous Monte Vulture (4365 ft.), an extinct vol- cano, may be visited. Horace mentions it as the 'ApulianVultur'; at that period it formed the boundary between Lucania and Apulia. Calabria extended hence in a S.E. direction to the Japygian or Salentinian pro- montory, the modern Capo di Leuca (p. 203); and S.W. lay the land of

ioFoggia. VENOSA. 15. Route. 195

the Bruttii, as far as the Sicilian straits. Since the middle ages, however the latter district has been named Calabria, while the ancient Calabria is now the Terra di Otranto.

The former crater of M. Vulture is densely overgrown with oaks and beeches, among which two small and deep lakes are situated. By one of these are the Capuchin monastery of <S. Michele , most picturesquely situated, and the ruined church of S. llano. On the farther side of the principal crater rises the summit of the mountain, II Pizzuto di Melfi (4360 ft.). The circumference of the whole mountain is about 37 M.

About 6 M. to the SB. of the station of Eapolla-Lavello lies Venosa, which will also be a railway-station when the line is prolonged.

Venosa (poor inn), the ancient Venusia, colonised by Rome after the Samnite war, is now a small town with 7500 inhab., picturesquely situated on the slope of Monte Vulture , not far from the Fiumara , the 'pauper aquse Daunus' of Horace (Carm. iii, 30, 11). The Castle was erected by Pirro del Balzo in the 15th century. The abbey and church of S. Trinita, consecrated by Pope Nicholas II. in 1058 and recently badly restored, contain the tombs of the founder Robert Guiscard and his first wife Aberarda , mother of Boemund, and several frescoes of the 13th and 14th centuries. The three principal chapels are still distinctly recognised. The handsome court contains numerous inscriptions, columns, and other relics of an amphitheatre, which lay in the neighbourhood.

Near Venosa, on the road to the Fiumara, Jewish Catacombs, with inscriptions in Hebrew, Latin, and Greek, were discovered in 1853. History records that Jews were numerous here in the 4th and 5th centuries.

An ancient structure of 'opus reticulatum' here is called the Casa di Orazio, but without the slightest authority. Horace, the son of a freedman, was born atVenusia, on 8th Dec. B.C. 65, and there received his elementary education, after which his father took him to Rome in order to procure him better instruction. He frequently mentions the 'far resounding Aundus' in his poems, as well as the villages in the vicinity (Carm. iii. 4, 14), such as the lofty Acherontia, now Acerenza (p. 209), 9 M. to the S.E., the woods of Bantia, N. of the latter, now Abbadia de* Banzi, near Genzano, and the fertile meadows of the low-lying Ferentum (probably Forenza). Near Palazzo, 6 M. to the E. of Venosa, to the right of the road to Spinazzola, rises an abundant spring, now called Fontana Grande, believed to be identical with the Fons Bandusiae so highly praised by Horace (Carm. iii. 13).

On the wooded heights between Venusia and Bantia, in B.C. 208, M. Claud. Marcellus, the gallant conqueror of Syracuse, and the first gen- eral who succeeded in arresting the tide of Hannibal's success (at Nola, 215), fell into an ambuscade and perished.

16. Prom Foggia to Brindisi and the Apulian Peninsula.

Railway to Brindisi, 146 M. , in 5-61/2 hrs. ; fares 26 fr. 40, 18 fr. 50, 10 fr. 65 c. (3rd cl. express 13 fr. 20 c.) ; comp. p. 189. — From Brindisi to Otranto, 54 31., in 3-3y2 hrs. ; fares 9 fr. 75, 6 fr. 85, 3 fr. 90 c. (3rd cl. express 4 fr. 90 c); only two through-trains daily. — Excursions in the country are usually made here in two-wheeled Sciarrabfcs (a corruption of the French 'char-a-bancs'), resembling the Neapolitan corricoli. The average charge per day is 6-7 fr., fee included, and the average journey 30-35 M.

Foggia, see p. 192. On the right lies an extensive plain, the Ta- voliere della Puglia. Beyond it, to theS., rises Mte. Vulture (p. 194).

12!/2 M. Orta Nova. — From (22 M.) the station Cerignola a branch-railway (V4I1T.; fares 1 fr. 5, 60, 35 e.) diverges to the town of Cerignola, with 26,000 inhab., uninteresting. Route to (10'/2 M.) Canosa, see p. 196. The surrounding plain is richly cultivated, but entirely destitute of trees , which generally form an

13*

196 Route 16. CANOSA. From Foggia

important feature in Italian fields and enhance the beauty of the landscape. Cotton-plantations begin here. — 32' /2 M. Trinitapoli Beyond (35 M.) Ofantino the train crosses the Ofanto (p. 194), the last river of the E. coast, -with banks covered -with underwood, Between two ranges of hills to the right lies the broad plain on which the battle of Cannre was fought (see below).

42^2 M. Barletta (Loeanda di Ettore Fieramosca), a seaport- town with 33,200 inhab., picturesquely situated, contains a number of well-built houses and churches. The market-place is adorned with a bronze statue 14 ft. in height, said to represent the Emp. Heraclius (according to others Theodosius), and to have been found in the sea. In the Piazza d'Azeglio is a monument to Massimo d'Azeglio (d. 1866), the statesman, erected in 1880. The Cathedral of S. Maria Maggiore contains the tomb of a Count of Barbi and Miihlingen (d. 1566), with a German inscription. 8. Andrea and S. Trinita possess several ancient pictures. The extensive Castello dates from the time of Charles VI.

In the wars between Louis XII. and Ferdinand the Catholic, Barletta was defended in 1503 by Gonsalvo da Cordova and besieged by the Duke of Nemours. During the siege, among other encounters, a combat took place in the vicinity (between Andria and Corato, p. 197) between thirteen on each side of the most valiant knights of Italy and France, conducted re- spectively by Colonna, and Bayard 'sans peur et sans reproche1 , which terminated in favour of the former.

Canosa (Albergo Genghi, bad), with 16,500 inhab., on the slope of a hill, lies 14 M. inland from Barletta and about as far from Andria (see below), with both of which it is connected by high-roads. Of the ancient Canusium, once a prosperous town, a gate (Porta Varrense, on the road to Cerignola) , ruins of an extensive amphitheatre, and other relics still exist. Numerous painted vases, golden trinkets, etc., have been discovered in the neighbourhood. The principal church of S. Sabino, with several small domes, contains a pulpit and episcopal throne in marble and some antique columns; its pavement is now several feet below the level of the street. In an adjacent court is the tomb of Boemund (d. 1111), son of Rob. Guiscard, one of Tasso's heroes. Large olive-plantations in the neigh- bourhood, which, like the whole of Apulia, also yields excellent wine.

About midway between Barletta and Canosa, and a little to theN. of the road, on the right bank of the Aufidus (Ofanto), once lay Cannae, where the Romans were signally defeated by Hannibal, B. C. 216. The Roman army, under the Consuls Lucius ^Emilius Paullus and Caius TerentiusVarro, con- sisted of 80,000 foot and 6O)0 horse, that of Hannibal numbered 40,000 foot and 10,000 horse. After various changes of position the two armies engaged on the right bank of the Aufidus, the right wing of the Romans and the left wing of the Carthaginians leaning on the river. The Gallic and Spanish legionaries opened the battle by a successful attack on the Carthaginian centre, but Hasdrubal, at the head of the Carthaginian cavalry on the right wing, quickly put the Roman horse to flight, and then attacked the legions in the rear. Scarcely a single Roman foot-soldier escaped, 70,000 being left on the field, including jEmilius Paullus the Consul, and 10,000 being taken prisoner. Hannibal lost only about 6000 men. — In 1019 an Apulian and Norman army under Melo of Bari was defeated at Cannffi by the troops of the Greek prefect Basilius Bugianus. In 1083 Cannse was taken and destroyed by Robert Guiscard.

From Barletta to Bari via Andria, about 50 M., steam-tramway in 3y2 hrs., four times daily in each direction. — 7i/2 m. Andria {Lo- eanda di Milone, near the road to Trani, tolerable), with 37 000 inhab.. founded about 1046, once a favourite residence of the Emp. Frederick II.,

to Brindisi. TRANI. 16. Route. 197

whose second wife Iolanthc of Jerusalem died here in 1228, after having given birth to a son (Conrad), and was interred in the interesting old cathedral. His third wife, Isabella of England, who died at Foggia in 1241, was also interred in the cathedral of Andria, but the monuments of these empresses have long since disappeared, having been destroyed by the partizans of Anjou. On the Porta S. Andrea, or delV Imperatore, is a metrical inscription in letters of metal, attributed to Frederick : Andria fidelis no&tris affixa medullis, etc. The old church of S. Agostino and the adjoining convent belonged to the Teutonic Order during the sway of the Hohenstaufen. — To the S. of Andria, on the summit of the pyramidal Murgie di Minervino, is the conspicuous and imposing "Castello del Monte, erected by Frederick II., who frequently resided here, for the purpose of hawking in the neighbourhood. The building is maintained by govern- ment. This height commands a fine *View of the sea, the valley of the Ofanto, Mte. Vulture, etc. A bridle-path (91/2 M.) ascends to it from Andria. A little beyond Andria, in a field by the road-side, is a modern monument called VEpitafio, marking the spot where the above-mentioned encounter between Colonna and Bayard took place. 9>/2 M. Corato, with 30,000 inhabitants. 14 M. Ruvo (Giov. Nanni, tolerable), with 17,000 inhab., the ancient Rubi, famous for the numerous and beautiful vases found in the Apulian tombs in its environs , and now among the chief treasures of the Museum of Naples. The tombs have since been covered up again. The collection of Giov. Jatta is worthy of a visit. — 17 M. Terlizzi. — 26 M. Bitonto, with 26,000 inhab. and large manufactures of salad-oil. The interesting cathedral contains several tombs of the 17t!i century. — Near (301/2 M.) Modugno the tramway-line crosses the railway from Bari to Taranto (p. 199). — 37 M. Bari, see p. 198.

The line now skirts the coast. The country is luxuriantly fer- tile, and is chiefly famous for large olive-plantations yielding the finest quality of salad-oil. The district where this is produced now extends from Barletta and Canosa, past Bari, to the neighbourhood of Taranto (p. 210). The yield and quality of the olive are extremely fluctuating. A first-rate crop, though very rare, sometimes realises a price equal to the value of the whole estate.

501/2 M. Trani (Albergo della Stella d' Italia; Alb. delle Pu- glie; Due Mori), with 26,000 inhab., is a well-built seaport. The loftily situated '^Cathedral, built about 1100, still possesses a Romanesque portal and beautiful bronze doors by Barisano (1175). Interior barbarously modernised. The crypt, which extends beneath the entire church, deserves a visit. Above the portal of the church of the Ognissanti is a Romanesque relief of the Annunciation. The interesting Castello is now used as a prison. Several synagogues afford an indication of the former prosperity of the place and of its importance at the time of the Crusades. The pretty 'Villa', or public gardens, on the coast, contains two well-preserved, milestones from the Via Trajana, which led from Benevento to Brindisi via Canosa, Ruvo, Bari, and Egnatia. Excellent wine (Moscado di Trani) is pro- duced in the neighbourhood.

55(/2 M. Bisceglie, with 23,000 inhab., the ruins of a Norman fortress, and numerous handsome villas.

61 M. Molfetta (30,000 inhab.), beautifully situated, an epis- copal see, was once in commercial alliance with Amain. After the death of Johanna I. her husband Otho, Duke of Brunswick, was confined in the castle here until released by Charles of Durazzo in

198 Route 16. BARI. From Foggia

1384. — 65 M. Oiovinazzo, said to have been founded by the inhabi- tants of Egnatia (p. 200), on the destruction of the latter, or by the inhabitants of the ancient Netium (Natiolum). 69!/2 M. S. Spirito and Bitonto (p. 197); the latter lies 4 M. to the W.

77 M. Bari. — Hotels. Albergo del Risokgihento (PI. a; C, 4), with good trattoria, E., L., & A. 21/->fr., bargaining advisable; Alb. Cen- trale, at the corner of the Via Piccinni and the Via Cavour (PI. D, 4); Hotel Cavour, Corso Vitt. Emanuele 86 ; Alb. Piccinni, Via Piccinni 12.

Cafes. Risorgimento and Stoppani, both in the Corso Vitt. Emanuele; Caffi Piccinni. — Beer, etc., at Orsola CafliscK's and the Birreria del Bolog- nese, both in the Corso Vitt. Emanuele.

Cabs into the town, or per drive, 50 c, after dusk 70 c. ; with two horses 70 or 90 c.

Tramway to Barletta, from the N.W. of the Giard. Garibaldi, see p. 196.

Steamboats. Vessels of the Societh Florio, for Brindisi , the Piraeus, Tremiti, Ancona, Venice, and Trieste. Also to Genoa and Marseilles.

British Vice-Consul, Emit Berner, Esq. — U. S. Consular Agent, Joseph Klein, Esq.

Bari, the ancient Barium, which is still, as in the time of Horace, well supplied with fish ('Bari piscosi mcenia'), a seaport, and the capital of a province, with 60,600 inhab., is the most important commercial town in Apulia. It is one of the most ancient bishoprics in Italy , and is now the seat of an archbishop. In mediaeval history it is frequently mentioned as the scene of contests between Saracens, Greeks, and Normans, etc. In 1002 it was wrested from the Saracens by the Venetians. "William the Bad destroyed the town in 1156, but "William the Good restored it in 1169. Bari was an independent duchy from the 14th cent, down to 1558, when it was united with the kingdom of Naples.

The Strada Sparano da Bari leads to the N. from the station and crosses the Piazza Ateneo, in which, on the left, stands the Ateneo (PL C, 6), containing a technical school and the Provincial Museum. The latter consists chiefly of vases in the S. Italian style (Director : Comm. Michele Mirenghi).

The Strada Sparano ends in the Corso Vittorio Emanuelb, which runs from W. to E. and separates the closely built old town from the new town, or Borgo. On the W. the Corso ends in the grounds of the Oiardino Oaribaldi (PI. A, 4) ; at the E. end is the Oiardino Margherita (PL D, E, 4), with a bust of Giuseppe Masari (d. 1883), parliamentary deputy and author, beyond which is the Old Harbour, now used only by fishing-boats and other small craft.

In the middle the Corso expands into the Piazza dblla Pre- fettura (PLC, 4), which is bounded on the W. by the Oiardino Piccinni, with a statue of the composer Piccinni, Gluck's rival, who was born at Bari in 1728, on the S. by the Teatro Piccinni (PL 15), the Palazzo di Citta, and the Tribunali (the last two forming the wings of the theatre), and on the N. by the Prefecture (PL 11). Passing to the left of the prefecture we reach the Castello (now a prison, PL B, C, 3), which was built in 1169 and afterwards re- peatedly strengthened. The castello lies on the New Harbour,

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whence a fine view of Mte. Gargano is enjoyed in clear weather. — Farther on is the Cathedral of S. Sabino (PI. 3; C, 3), begun in 1027, originally a fine Byzantine building, sadly modernised in 1745. Over the altar of S. Rocco is a picture by Tintoretto, and opposite to it one by Paolo Veronese. Fine crypt (begun in 1034), with numerous columns. The lofty campanile resembles the Moorish tower of Seville.

Near the cathedral is the church of *S. Nicola (PI. D, 2, 3), begun in 1087 for the reception of the relics of the saint, which were brought from Myra in Lycia. The crypt was consecrated by Pope Urban II. in 1089 ; the church itself, a pillared basilica in an antique style, with numerous later additions, was finished by the Norman king Roger in 1139. On the exterior are tombstones erected to members of noble families of Bari, and to Byzantine pil- grims who died here. The interesting facade is embellished with mediocre statues of the Virgin, S. Nicola, and S. Antonio di Padova.

The Interior consists of nave and aisles with flat ceiling , borne by doable rows of columns, with galleries over the aisles. The transverse arches in the nave did not form part of the original structure. In the N. aisle is the Tombstone of Robert, Count of Bari, 'protonotarius' of Charles of Anjou, who conducted the proceedings against the ill-fated Prince Con- radin, and was afterwards assassinated by a nephew of Charles of Anjou on the very spot on which he had proclaimed the sentence (p. 39). He was a member of the Chiurlia family, resident at Bari. — To the right of the high- altar is a Madonna with saints, by BaHolommeo Vivarini of Murano, 1476. — At the back of the choir is the Tomb (erected in 1593) of Bona Sforza, queen of Sigismund I. of Poland and last Duchess of Bari (d. 1558), with statues of St. Casimir and Stanislaus.

On the staircase leading to the Crypt are some early-Christian sar- cophagus-sculptures representing Christ and the Evangelists (5th cent.), which were perhaps brought from Mysia. — The crypt itself contains a silver altar with interesting * Alto-reliefs, executed in 1319 for the Servian king Urosius by Ruggero dalV Invidia and Roberto da Barletta, and restored in 1684 by Bom. Marinelli and Ant. Amtabili of Naples. Below the altar is the vault containing the bones of the saint, from which a miraculous fluid ('Manna di Bari'), highly prized by believers, is said to exude. The festival of the saint , on 8th May , is attended by thou- sands of pilgrims, chiefly from the Albanese villages.

The Treasury contains a beautifully illuminated breviary of Charles II. of Anjou, the sceptre of the same monarch, and an iron crown, which is said to have been made at Bari in 1131 for the Norman Roger. Roger himself, Emp. Henry VI. and his consort Costanza, Manfred, and Ferdinand I. of Aragon were all crowned with it in this church. — In 1271 Charles of Anjou presented the church with a colossal bell, which Manfred had in- tended for Manfredonia, but tradition reports that this giant was melted down and made into Ave smaller bells about the year 1394. The present bells date from 1578, 1713, and 1830.

The Lion in the Piazza Mercantile (PI. D, 3), with the inscription 'custos justitiae' on its collar, is the heraldic cognisance of Bari.

On the old diligence-road to Taranto, about 6 M. to the S.E. of Bari, is the village of Capurso, visited by pilgrims on account of the miraculous image of the Madonna del Pozzo. Thence road to Noicattaro, Rutigliano, and Conversano (see p. 200).

From Bari to Taranto, 72 M., railway in 4'/2 hrs. (fares 13 fr., 9 fr. 10, 5 fr. 85 c). The line leads inland, towards the W., and gradually ascends. 7 M. Modngno; 9Vi M. Bitetto. On a hill 3 M. to the N. lies Palo del Colle, once surrounded by four villages (Auricarre, Marescia, Staglino, Batlaglia),

200 Route 16. BRINDISI. From Foggia

of which few traces are left. 14 M. Qrumo-Appula. 25'/z M. Acquaviva delle Fonti; about 3 M. to the W. is situated Cassano, with a stalactite grotto (key at the Sindaco's); fine view from the suppressed Convento dei Riformati. 34 M. Oioia del Golle (14,000 inhab.). The line now enters the Terra d"Otranto, the ancient Calabria, and traverses the low range of hills which form the S.E. spurs of the Apennines. The scenery becomes of bleak char- acter, the olive-trees disappearing and the fields often looking as if sown with fragments of limestone rocks. 42 M. S. Basilio-Mottola ; 48 M. Cat- tellaneta, where olives reappear. Beyond the next tunnel the line crosses three deep ravines ('gravine'). 53 M. Palagianello ; 58 M. Palagiano; WfeN. Massafra, picturesquely situated on the slope of a 'gravina'. The train approaches the sea. Fine view of the bay. — 72 M. Taranto, see p. 210.

Si M. Noicattaro, station for the town of the same name, lying 3 M. inland, with large potteries. In the neighbourhood is Rutigliano, dominated by the square tower of an old castle. — 89 M. Mola di Bari (13,000 inhab.), on the coast. On the hill rising inland, but not visible from the railway, lies the old town of Conversano, the ancient Cupermnum (700 ft.), with a strong castle, which belonged from 1456 to theAcquavivas, dukes of Atri and counts of Conversano.

— 99 M. Polignano a Mare is situated on a lofty and precipitous rock , rising above the sea and containing several fine grottoes. The finest of these lies under the new town (entrance by a small door in the old town ; key at the house opposite). — 102 M. Monopoli, the ancient M inopolis, with 12,000 inhab., the residence of an arch- bishop. The cathedral contains a St. Sebastian by Palma Vecchio. The tower of S. Francesco commands a fine view. Near the sea, on the line of the ancient road to Egnatia, there have been discovered several rock-hewn tombs , the contents of which are now in the museum at Bari (p. 198). — On the coast between Monopoli and Fasano lies the ruined town ('la citta distrutta') of Egnatia, the Greek OnatMa, now Anazzo, where a number of vases, ornaments, etc., have been found. The ancient walls have been nearly all removed by the peasants to build their cottages.

HO^M. Fasano (Locanda by the Municipio, tolerable), a thriv- ing town with 15,500 inhabitants. The old palace of the Knights of St. John, with its handsome loggie (1509), is now occupied by the Municipio. Signora Scarli Colucci possesses a collection of an- tiquities from Egnatia , to which , however, persons unprovided with an introduction will scarcely obtain access. 115 M. Cisternino.

The train now enters the province of Lecce or Otranto {Terra d'Otranto, the ancient Calabria, see above). 123 M. Ostuni (Lo- canda Petruzzo-Anglana) possesses a cathedral with a line Roman- esque facade ; the Biblioteca Municipale contains a collection of antiquities. — 129 M. Carovigno ; 139 M. S. Vito d'Otranto.

146 M. Brindisi. — Hotels. Grand Hotel des Indes Okientales, built by the S. Italian railway company, on the quay, near the landing- place of the P. and O. steamers, R. 3, A. 1, B. l>/2, D. 5, lunch 3y2-4 fr.

— Albekgo d'Europa, in the Strada Amena, leading from the station to the (y2 Jl.) harbour, R. & L. 2y2 fr. , A. 40 c. ; Albekgo Centrale, Via Garibaldi, near the harbour, R. & L. l'/2-3 fr. ; the.se two tolerably good.

Cabs. From the station to the harbour, 1 pers. 60 c, at night 80 c,

to Brindisi. BRINDISI. 16. Route. 201

2 pers. 1 fr. or 1 fr. 20 c, 3 pers. 1 fr. 20 or 1 fr. 40 c, 4 pers. 1 fr. 50 or 1 fr.

TO c. ; per 1/2 hr- 2 fr- or 2 fr- 20 c-> Per hr- 3 fr- °r 3 fr. 20 c. ; trunk 20 c.

Post Office, in the Strada Amena. — Telegraph Office, at the harbour.

Steamboats to Corfu, Syra, and the Piraeus (comp. E. 43) ; also to An-

cona, Venice, Trieste, Alexandria, etc.

British Vice-Consul: Sig. S. 0. Cocoto. — English Church Service in winter.

Brindisi, with 17,000 inhab., the ancient Brentesion of the Greeks, and the Brundisium (i.e. stag's head) of the Romans, a name due to the form of the harbour which encloses the town in two arms, was once a populous seaport, and the usual point of em- barcation for Greece and the East.

Brundisium was a very famous place in ancient history. At an early period it was colonised by Tarentum, and subsequently by Rome, B.C. 245, and it formed the termination of the Via Appia, the construction of which from Capua was nearly coeval with the foundation of the colony. Horace's description (Sat. i. 5) of his journey from Rome to Brundisium , B. C. 37, in the company of Maecenas, who wished to be present at the con- clusion of a new alliance between Octavianus and Antony at Tarentum, is well known. At Brundisium the tragic poet Pacuvius was born, and here, in B. C. 19, Virgil died on his return from Greece (some ruins near the harbour being still pointed out to the credulous as the remains of the house where he expired). The town, when occupied by Pompey, B.C. 49, sus- tained a memorable siege at the hands of Caesar, who describes the event in the first book of his Civil War. The fleets of the Crusaders frequently assembled in the harbour of Brundisium , but the place soon declined after the cessation of the crusades. It was subsequently destroyed by Lewis , King of Hungary, in 1348 , and again by a fearful earthquake in 1458, which buried most of the inhabitants beneath its ruins.

In modern times Brindisi has again become the starting-point of the most direct route from Central Europe to the East, and bids fair to become an important station for the carrying trade. The ex- tensive harbour, admirably sheltered from every wind, has been en- tirely restored. The large steamers of the Peninsular and Oriental Co., etc., are enabled to enter and lie at the quay itself. The N. arm of the harbour, which once bounded the town and extended far into the land, was productive of malaria, owing to its muddy con- dition, and is now dried up. The entrance to the harbour is divided into two channels by an island. In order to prevent the harbour from becoming filled with sand, the N. channel has recently been closed by means of a substantial bulwark of solid stone. The quarantine establishment and a small fort are situated on the island. The fort may be visited by boat, and a fine view enjoyed from the top, and the trip may be extended to the break- water (in all I-II/2 hr., fare I1/2 fr.).

On a slight eminence by the quay rises a lofty unfluted column of Greek marble, with a highly ornate capital, repre- senting figures of gods. Near it are the remains of a second. The former bears an unfinished inscription, containing mention of a Byzantine governor named Spathalupus, by whom the town was rebuilt in the 10th cent., after its destruction by the Sara- cens. These columns are supposed once to have marked the termination of the Via Appia ; but more probably belonged to an

202 Route 16. LBOCE.

honorary monument of the Byzantine period , like the column of Phocas at Rome. The other relics of antiquity are insignificant.

The Castello with its massive round towers , founded by the Emp. Frederick II., and strengthened by Charles V., is now a bagno for criminals condemned to the galleys. The 11th cent, baptismal-church of S. Giovanni, with frescoes, is now an anti- quarian museum. In the Cathedral the nuptials of Frederick II. with Iolanthe of Jerusalem were solemnised in 1225. Several thousands of the participators in the Crusade of 1227 perished here. Brindisi possesses a public library, presented by a Bishop de Leo, a native of the place. The environs are fertile, but malarious.

Railway from Brindisi to Taranto , Metaponto, and Naples, see R. 18.

From Brindisi the train runs in 1 hr. 20 min. , via stations Tuturano, S. Pietro Vernotico, Squinzano, and Trepuzzi, to —

170 M. Lecce {Albergo della Vittoria, well spoken of; Alb. della Ferrovia ; Roma; Gran Caffe, Piazza S. Oronzo), the capital of a province and the seat of a bishop, with 26,000 inhab., situated in an unattractive district, not far from the sea.

The church of S. Croce, with its fanciful baroque facade, in the Piazza della Prefettura, dates from the end of the 16th century. The Prefettura, an old Celestine convent, is of the same period; it con- tains a collection of vases (Attic *Amphora with Polynices and Eri- phyle ; vase with Achilles and Brise'is), terracottas, coins, and in- scriptions. Passing through the Prefettura we reach the Giardino Pubblico. In the Piazza a bronze statue of Victor Emmanuel II., by Maocagni, was erected in 1889. Near the Porta diRugge is the church of S. Domenico, in the baroque style of the 17th cent. ; opposite is the Hospital, of the end of the 16th century. In the Piazza del Vescovado are the Cathedral of S. Oronzo, built in the 17th cent., the Seminary, and the Vescovado. Outside the Porta di Napoli lies the Campo Santo, with the church of SS. Nicola e Cataldo, built by the Norman Count Tancred in 1180. Of the facade the central part alone, with the beautiful portal, is of ancient date. The corridor to the right of the church is entered by an interesting *Side-portal.

Lecce occupies the site of the ancient Lupia. In the vicinity lay Ru- diae, where Ennius, the father of Roman poetry, was horn, B.C. 239 (d. at Rome 168), now Rugge, a place of no importance. — On the coast lies the Castello di S. Caiialolo, lljz M. to the W., a favourite point for excursions.

About il/i M. to the S.E. of Lecce lies Covallino, with a chateau in the rich baroque style of the 17th cent.; the owner, the Duca Sigismondo Castro- mediano de Limburg, admits visitors on their sending their cards.

The train runs from Lecce to (29!/2 M.J Otranto in about 2 hrs. Four unimportant stations. — 179 M. Zollino.

Feom Zollino to Gallipoli, 22 31., railway in l'/4 hr. (fares 4 fr., 2 fr. 80, 1 fr. 80 c). — .Stations: Soleto, Galatina, Galaione, Nardb-Oalatone (the ancient Neretum of the Sallentini, now an episcopal residence), S.Nicola, and Alezio. — 22 M. Gallipoli (British vice-consul), a seaport, with 11,000 inhab., beautifully situated on a rocky island in the Gulf of Taranto, but connected with the mainland by a bridge. It was founded by the Lace-

OTRANTO. 17. Route. 203

demonian Leucippus and the Tarentines, and is the Urbs Grata Callipolis of the Roman geographer Mela, hut is called Anxa by Pliny. The cathedral is a handsome building of the 17th century. The town was formerly celebrated for its oil , which was stored for long periods in subterranean cisterns , and thence drawn off for exportation in a thoroughly clarified condition. Date-palms are frequent in the gardens of the handsome villas.

— A steamer of the Florio Co. plies weekly to Brindisi and Taranto.

184 M. Corigliano a" Otranto ; 187 M. Maglie; Bagnolo del Sa- lento ; Cannole; Giurdigna.no.

19972 M. Otranto, the Greek Hydrus, the Roman Hydruntum, a colony and municipium , often mentioned by the ancients as a point of embarcation for Apollonia in Epirus, was destroyed by the Turks in 1480, and never recovered from the effects of this cruel blow. It is now an insignificant fishing town with 2000 inhab., and the seat of an archbishop. The castle with its two towers was erected by Alphonso of Aragon and strengthened by Charles V. — The Cathedral still contains some columns from a temple of Mer- cury, which once stood near the village of S. Nicola, not far from the town. — From the ramparts of the Castle the coast and moun- tains of Epirus are visible in clear weather.

A road skirting the coast leads from Otranto to (31 31.) the Promon- tory of Leuca, via Muro (to the right), and Castro, situated on a rocky eminence by the sea, and therefore supposed to be the Castrum Minervae, that point of Italy which, according to Virgil, was first beheld by ^Eneas ; then through a succession of gardens and vineyards to Tricase (I1/2 M. from the sea), Alessano, Montesardo, Patit, and finally S. Maria di Leuca, a village on the site of the ancient Leuca, not far from the promontory of Leuca or Finisterra. This is the Promonlorium Japygium, or Salentinum, of antiquity , the extreme point of Apulia, commanding a noble prospect. In fine weather the lofty Acroceraunian mountains of Albania may be distinguished. We may return for a change via, Patii, Presicce, Uggento (the ancient Uxentum, an episcopal residence), and Taviano, to Oallipoli (31 31.).

17. From Naples to Foggia (Ancona).

123 M. Railway in &/2&I2 hrs. (fares 22 fr. 40, 15 fr. 70, 10 fr. 10 c). This line forms part of the shortest route from Naples to N. and E. Italy and to Germany. From Naples to Bologna 19V2 hrs. From Foggia to An- cona (201 M., in 71/4-12 hrs. ; fares 36 fr. 50, 25 fr. 55, 18 fr. 25 c), see p. 189.

— The slow trains are always behind time.

Naples, see p. 19. — The line describes a wide curve through fields planted with poplars , vines, and various other crops, form- ing the most fertile and highly cultivated portion of the Terra di Lavoro (p. 7). An occasional glimpse of Vesuvius is obtained to the right. — 6 M. Casoria, connected with Naples by a steam-tram- way (p. 23). 8y2 M. Frattamaggiore-Orumo ; 10 M. S. Antimo.

12'/.2 M. Aversa, a town with 21,000 inhab., probably occupies the site of the ancient Atella, where the Fabula Atellana, or early Roman comedy, first originated. In 1029 it was the first settlement of the Normans , who afterwards became so powerful. The large church of S. Paolo contains a faithful reproduction of the Holy House of Loreto (see Baedeker's Central Italy). On 18th Sept. 1345 King Andreas of Hungary , husband of Queen Johanna I. of

204 Route 17. BENEVENTO. From Naples

Naples, was assassinated by Niccolo Acciajuoli in the palace o Aversa. The light and rather acid wine of Aversa, called Asprino is frequently drunk at Naples. Steam Tramway to Naples, see p. 23

18 M. Marcianise. — 28 M. Caserta, see p. 9.

The line now gradually ascends ; to the right a view of the Cam panian plain; to the left, the mountains. Two tunnels. — 26 M Maddaloni ; the town lies below the line.

The train descends, and passes under the *Ponti della Valle, ar imposing aqueduct in three stories, about 210 ft. in height. I was constructed by Vanvitelli by order of Charles III. and his son for the purpose of supplying the gardens of Caserta with water fron Monte Taburno (a distance of 25 M.). The towers connected witl it are seen on the hill to the left. — 30 M. Valle di Maddaloni — At (3372 M0 Frasso-Dugenta we cross the Isclero, on which, 2^2 M. above Dugenta , lies 8. Agata de' Goti, on the site of th( ancient Saticola. The defile between S. Agata and Mojano is sup- posed by some to be the Caudine Forks, as the locality corresponds better with Livy's description than the pass near Arpaia (p. 10).

The train enters the broad and fertile valley of the Volturno, which is first crossed below, then above, the influx of the Calore. — Beyond (38 M.) Amorosi the train follows the right bank of the Calore. Near (4072 M.) Telese-Cerreto we observe on the right th« Lago di Telese, a malarious marsh which poisons the neighbourhood Telese, a poor village on the hills to the left, is visited in summei for its mineral springs, and possesses a large new establishment foi visitors (special train from Naples daily in July and August). Neai it are a few relics of the Samnite Telesia, once occupied by Hanni- bal, but taken and destroyed by the Romans. It was afterwards col- onised by Augustus. In the 9th cent, the town suffered severely from an earthquake, and it was at length entirely destroyed by thi Saracens. A diligence runs hence to Piedimonte d'Alife (p. 10 in about 3 hrs.

4372 M. Solopaca; the small town (5000 inhab.) is pleasant!; situated Ufa M. off, at the foot of Monte Taburno (4095 ft.), or the left bank of the Calore. — 4772*1. S. Lorenzo Maggiore, on th< hill to the left. — Another tunnel. — 51 M. Casalduni- Ponte where the high-road to Benevento crosses the Calore by an iroi bridge. The valley contracts; to the right on the hill lies Torre- cuso. — On each side of (5572 M.). Vitulano we traverse a tunnel

60 M. Benevento. — The Station (Rail. Restaurant, fair) lies 3A " to the N. of the town; one-horse cab 50 c, two-horse 1 fr., after dusl 60 c. or 1 fr. 30 c. ; one-horse cab per hour 70 c.

Hotels. Villa di Roma, with good trattoria; Albeego Manfkedi Locanda di Benevento, in the Largo S. Antonio, small, but clean. - Cafi Garibaldi, in the main street; etc.

The sights of the town may be visited in 3 hrs. or less.

Benevento, a town with 21,700 inhab., situated on a hill bound ed by the two rivers Sabato and Calore , was formerly the capita

to Foggia. BENEVENTO. n. Route. 205

of a papal province of the same name. The narrow and dirty streets are gradually undergoing improvement.

Benevenlum, founded according to tradition by Diomedes, or by the son of Ulysses and Circe, was originally called Maleventum, but the name was changed when it became a Roman colony, B.C. 268. It lay on the Via Appia, and became one of the most important places in S. Italy. In the 6th cent, after Christ Beneventum became the seat of a powerful Lombard duchy. In the 11th cent. Emp. Henry III. ceded the principality of Bene- vento to Pope Leo IX., after which it belonged to Rome. In 1241 the town was partly destroyed by Frederick II. From 1806 to 1815 Benevento was capital of the short-lived principality of that name, which Napoleon I. granted to Talleyrand.

The road from the station crosses the Calore by a handsome bridge.

Near this, according to tradition, was the temporary grave of the young King Manfred, who on 26th Feb., 1266, in a battle with Charles I. of Anjou on the neighbouring plains , had lost his throne and his life through the treachery of the Barons of Apulia and the Counts of Caserta and Acerra. Shortly afterwards, however, the body of the ill-fated prince was exhumed by order of Bartolommeo Pignatelli, Archbishop of Cosenza, conveyed beyond the limits of the kingdom, and exposed unburied on the bank of the Rio Verde. Dante records this in his Purgatorio (iii. 134).

Skirting the verge of the town, to the left, we reach on the N. side, *Trajan's Triumphal Arch, or the Porta Aurea, dating from A. D. 114, one of the finest and best preserved Roman structures in S. Italy. It was dedicated to the emperor by the Roman senate and people, in recognition of his having completed a new road to Brundisium, and somewhat resembles the arch of Titus at Rome. It is constructed of Greek marble, and is 50 ft. in height, the passage being 27 ft. high. A quadriga with a statue of Trajan once crowned the summit. The reliefs relate to the history of the emperor.

Outside. Over the arch are two rivers , the Danube and Euphrates (or Rhine). The frieze represents the triumph of Trajan over the Ger- manic tribes. Above, on the left, assembly of the gods , resolving on the adoption of Trajan by Nerva ; on the right, conquest of Dacia, King Dece- balus at the emperor's feet. On the left Trajan triumphing over Dacia; on the right the marriage of Hadrian and Sabina; 1. Armenia constituted a Roman province ; r. an Oriental ambassador in Trajan's presence. — Passage: I.Trajan sacrificing to Jupiter; r. Trajan bestowing a 'congiarium' or largess on the people after his triumph. On the ceiling Trajan crowned by Victory. — Inner Side. On the frieze a Dacian triumph. Reliefs : Trajan sacrificing, Procession to the Capitol, Adoption of Trajan, Entry into Rome, Trajan administering justice, Trajan in the Basilica Ulpia.

Following the Town Walls (to the right if we approach from the town), which , as well as the town itself, contain many relics of antiquity, we proceed towards the S. to the Castle, erected in the 14th cent., now partly used as a prison. The promenade in front of it commands an excellent survey of the valley of the Sabato.

From this point we follow the main street to a small piazza with a modern obelisk, in which is the Church of Santa Sofia, a circular edifice of the Lombard period, erected about 732-74. It is now partly modernised. The vaulting of the dome is borne by six ancient Corinthian columns. To the left are the handsome cloisters of a suppressed Benedictine monastery , with curious mediieval sculptures on the capitals of the columns.

206 Route 17. BOVINO.

Farther to trie left is the Town-Hall. To the right is the Piazza Papiniano. The obelisk, re-erected here in 1872, is a memorial of the Egyptian worship of Isis, which was very prevalent here towards the end of the pagan period. — We next reach the piazza in front of the cathedral.

The *Cathedral is a beautiful edifice in the Lombard-Saracenic style, dating from the 12th century. The campanile is later (accord- ing to an inscription, begun in 1296) ; in the wall is a relief in marble, representing a wild boar, the cognisance of Benevento. The principal door of the cathedral is of bronze, adorned with basreliefs of New Testament subjects. It is said to have been executed at Con- stantinople in 1150. The interior is in the form of a basilica, with double aisles borne by ancient columns. Ambones and candelabra of 1311. Valuable treasury.

To the left of the cathedral is the Episcopal Palace, a pile dat- ing from various periods. Descending to the right of the church, we pass through three archways (reached also from the piazza in front of the episcopal palace), and taking the second turning on the right, reach the site of the ancient Theatre. Several of the entrance- arches in limestone have recently been excavated. The traveller may now continue his route beyond the town along the bank of the Sabato, planted with poplars, to the ancient Ponte Lebroso, by which the Via Appia once led to the town. It is now the site of a mill. This point may also be reached by following the main street beyond the town, and then descending to the left. We return to the hill, on which a conspicuous new church is being built ; on the slope lie the ruins ofSanti Quaranta, an extensive structure of brick with a crypto- porticus and colonnades, probably part of a bath-establishment.

From Benevento to Termoli, see p. 191.

From Benevento to Naples vid Avellino and Nola, see R. 11.

The RaujWay crosses the Tammaro, a tributary of the Calore, immediately before (64 M.) Ponte Valentino, and follows the un- interesting N. bank of the latter stream, through its narrow valley, to (67 Y2 M.) Apice. — 74 M. Buonalbergo. 77 M. Montecalvo; the town is on the hill to the right. Four tunnels , one of which is more than I1/2 M. long. We then cross the watershed between the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Adriatic. 84 M. Ariano di Puglia; the town is not visible from the line. Then a long tunnel, beyond which we descend the Valle diBovino, the narrow valley of the Cervaro. — 90 M. Savignano-Oreci, two villages loftily situated on opposite sides of the valley. — 95 M. Montaguto-Panni. Montaguto lies on the left bank of the Cervaro ; Panni lies high up among the hills to the right. We follow the left bank of the Cervaro. — 93»/2 M. Orsara di Puglia.

102y2 M. Bovino, the ancient Vibinum, lies on the hill to the right. At Ponte diBovino the train crosses the Cervaro. — 107 M. Oiardinetto is the station for Troja , 7 M. to the N. (diligence

EBOLI. 18. Route. 207

IV2 fr._), a colony founded in 1017 by the Greek prefect Bugianus (p. 196); to the 11th cent, belongs also the interesting cathedral with its ancient bronze doors. The facade (1093-1119) is richly adorned with sculpture and mosaic-work.

From (118 M.) Cervaro diverges the branch-line to Rapolla- Lavello mentioned at p. 194. We finally traverse the Tavoliere della Puglia (p. 193) to (123 M. ) Foggia (p. 192).

18. From Naples to Brindisi via Metaponto and Taranto.

240 31. Railway (express to Sletaponto) in 10V2-17 hrs. ; fares 43 fr. 65, 30 fr. 55, 19 fr. 65 c.

From Naples to (45'/2 M.) Battipaglia, see pp. 160-165.

49^2 M. Eboli [Albergo del Pastore, tolerable), a town with 9000 inhab., situated on the hillside, with an old chateau of the Prince of Angri, enjoys a line view of the sea, the oak-forest of Persano, the towns at the foot of Monte Alburno, as far as the temples of Psestum. The sacristy of S. Francesco contains a large Madonna by Andrea da Salerno.

The railway proceeds towards the E., at the foot of the hills. On the right flows the broad and turbulent Sele, beyond which rises the Monte Alburno (5710ft.), the Alburnus of the ancients, described by Virgil as 'green with holm-oaks'. The line, which is here scaling the main chain of the Apennines , passes through no less than thirty-six tunnels in the limestone rock. Scattered groves of oaks and olive-trees are seen at intervals. 54 M. Persano; 6IV2M. Contursi ; the village lies at some distance to the left. The train now follows for a short time the course of the Tanagro or Negro, the Tanager of the ancients. — 65 M. Sicignano.

Fkom Sicignano to Lagonegbo, 50 M., railway in 31/2-4 hrs. (now being prolonged to Castrocucco, p. 166). — The line ascends the valley of the Tanagro towards the S.E. 5V2 M. Galdo;7i/2M. Pelina. — lO'/zM. Auletta; on the hill to the left is the village of that name (3000 inhab.). Many traces still exist of the appalling earthquake of Dec. 17th, 1857, through the effects of which, direct and indirect (exposure, hunger, etc.), 40,000 people perished in the district of Sala and the valley of Diano alone. — The line describes a wide bend to the right and crosses the ravine of the Lonlrano by a lofty viaduct, beyond which it again approaches the Tanagro. To the left lies the village of Pertosa, which was partly de- stroyed in 1857. Below the village is a large cavern, dedicated to St. Michael, whence, after a subterranean course of l'/2 M., the Tanagro pre- cipitates itself into a gorge. Beyond (17 M.) Polla, the ancient Forum Popilii, we enter the beautiful and fertile Valle di Diano. The valley, 15 M. in length, is traversed by the Tanagro, here named the Galore, and contains numerous villages. — 21 M. Atena, the ancient Atina in Lueania, with remains of an amphitheatre, walls, and towers. '251/i M. Sala-Consilina, the seat of a sub-prefect, picturesquely situated on a height. — 28V2 M., Sassano-Teg- giano , the ancient Tegianum, whence the valley derives its name. The river is here crossed by the Ponte di Silla, an ancient Roman bridge.

31'/2 M. Padula. Above the village is the Certosa di S. Lorenzo, a fine Renaissance edifice, recently restored and declared a national monument. Three well-preserved colonnaded courts, a large external staircase of some-

208 Route IS. POTENZA. From Naples

what later date, the refectory, and an adjoining room with a tasteful pavement of majolica slabs are interesting. — 35 M. Monlesano.

[From Sala, Padula, andMontesano beautiful routes (formerly not un- attended with danger from brigands) lead to the E. to the picturesque Valley of Marsico, which is watered by the Agri. The chief place is Marsico Nuovo, a town with 12,000 inhab. in the upper part of the valley. After a ride of 4-5 hrs. the traveller reaches Saponara, situated on a steep hill, at the foot of which, in the Agri valley, once lay the ancient Grumentum. The ruins are insignificant, but a rich treasure of vases, inscriptions, and gems has been found among them.]

41 M. Casalbuono. — 50 M. Lagonegro (Albergo Gaetano Lettieri, toler- able; one-horse carr. to Lauria, 5 fr.), a small town with 4000 inhab., in a wild situation, amidst lofty mountains, is at present the terminus of the line. The French gained a victory over the Neapolitans here in 1806, after which they committed the most savage excesses.

Fkom Lagonegko to Spezzano (Metaponto, Cosenza), about 40 M., high-road, traversed by a 'Vettura Corriera'. The road winds through dark and profound ravines, passing to the left of the Lago di Serino, the ancient Lams Niger, in which the Sinno, the Siris of the ancients, takes its rise. The (6 M.) village of Lauria (Inn, on the road, dirty; a better one in the village; one-horse carr. to Castelluccio, 5 fr.) lies at the base of a lofty mountain, opposite the huge Monte Sirino, and is surrounded by vineyards. Then Castelluccio, on an eminence above a branch of the Lao, the ancient Laos. The road leads hence, via Mormanno and Moram, the Muranum of the ancients, on the W. slope of Monte Pollino (7325 ft.), to —

30V2 M. Castrovillari {Leon o?Oro, E. dirty, cuisine good), a town of 10,000 inhab., situated on two brooks which unite a little lower down to form the Coscile. The older parts of the town, at the foot of the ancient Norman Castello, are largely deserted on account of the malaria.

Beyond Castrovillari the high-road leads through the well -cultivated valley of the Coscile via. Carnmarata to (40 M.) Spezzano- Castrovillari, where we reach the railway from Sibari to Cosenza mentioned at p. 219.

Beyond Sicignano the train reaches (70 M.) Buccino , a town ■with 6500 inhab., situated on a hill to the left. Beyond (71 M.) Ponte S. Cono it enters the valley of the Platano, which receives several small affluents on the left. At (74^2 M.) Romagnano the country becomes bleak, and covered with broom. 79 M. Balvano. 83 M. Bella-Muro, the station for the village of Bella and the town of Muro Lucano (8000 inhab.), both of which lie about 6 M. to the N. Near (91 M.) Baragiano the train crosses the Platano, which it then quits. — 92!/2 M. Picerno, with 6000 inhab., who make oil, wine, and silk. In the vicinity are some marble quarries. — 96 M. Tito, at the top of the pass, with an extensive view, stretching on the S. to Monte Pollino (see above), snow-covered even in June. The village (5000 iiihab.) lies to the right.

103 M. Potenza. — Alb. & Bist. Lombaedo, A. defective, omnibus to the station I1/4 fr. ; Ceooe di Savoia, dirty. — "Cafe' Pergola, opposite the Alb. Lombardo; kail. Restaurant, with bedrooms, well spoken of.

Potenza, with 20,300 inhab., is the capital of the province of the same name, which forms part of the old Basilicata, a district nearly corresponding with the ancient Lueania. The town, which was almost totally destroyed by the earthquake of 1857, lies on an eminence above the Basento , which rises on the mountain Ai-iona not far from this, and falls into the Gulf of Taranto near the ruins of Metapontum. Fine view from the piazza in front of the Cappella di S. Oerardo. — The ancient Potentia, destroyed by

to Toronto. METAPONTO. 18. Route. 209

Emp. Frederick II. and again by Charles of Anjou, lay lower down in the plain , at the spot now called La Murata, where coins and in- scriptions have frequently been found. Remains of various ancient towns have been discovered near Potenza. Sig. Lacava, director of the Banco di Napoli, is well acquainted with the environs, and exceedingly courteous in imparting his information.

From Potenza to Acerenza, an interesting excursion : diligence to Pietragalla (in 4 hrs., fare 2 fr.), and a walk of 2-3 hrs. thence. Acerenza (Locanda in the old castle), the Acherontia of Horace (comp. p. 195), famed for its wine, occupies a lofty and beautiful situation. The crypt of the cathedral contains four ancient columns of coloured marble and pedestals with mediaeval reliefs.

Fkosi Potenza to Melfi (p. 194; about 37 M. • hilly road) a diligence runs in 9-10 hrs. (fare 6 fr.), via Avigliano and Atella. Railway under con- struction.

The train now follows the picturesque valley of the Basento, passing through numerous tunnels. The stations are generally at a considerable distance from the towns and villages, with which there is often no regular communication. 107 M. Vaglio ; the village lies to the left of the railway. 11372 M. Brindisi-Montagna ; 117 M. Tri- vigno. 118 M. Albano ; the town of Albano di Lucania is situated on a hill to the N. The train now crosses the Camastra, the chief affluent of the Basento ; fine mountains to the right. 122 M. Cam- pomaggiore-Pietrapertosa ; to the left, romantic mountain scenery. 129^2 M- Calciano, the station for Tricarico, a town to the N., the seat of a bishop, with 6000 inhabitants. 132 M. Grassano-Garaguso (small restaurant) ; 13772 M. Salandra-Grottole. Grassano and Grot- tole lie considerably to the N. , Garaguso and Salandra to the S. of the railway. Salandra, with its oastle, is situated on the Salandrella, an affluent of the Cavone, which flows into the Gulf of Taranto. — 145^2 M. Ferrandina, 15372 M. Pisticci ; the two small towns are at some distance to the S. Farther on the train crosses the Basento, which descends in windings to the sea. 161 ^2 M- Bemalda, a town of 7000 inhab., with extensive fields of saffron and cotton.

169 M. Metaponto (Rail. Restaurant, tolerable, also bedrooms), near the old castle of Torremare, is a solitary station the name of which recalls the celebrated ancient Greek city of Metapontum. Pythagoras died here,B. C. 497, in his 90th year, but his philosophy long survived him in the towns of Magna Gracia, especially at Metapontum itself, Tarentum , and Croton. When Alexander of Epirus came to Italy in B. C. 332, Metapontum allied itself with him, and in the Second Punic "War it took the part of Hannibal. Its enmity to Rome on the latter occasion, however, caused its down- fall, and at the time of Pausanias, in the 2nd cent, after Christ, it was a mere heap of ruin-. About 1 M. to the N.W. of the station lie the ruins of a Doric Temple, dedicated to Apollo Lyceus, and called by the peasants Chiesa di Sansone; the columns are encased in stucco. — About 3 M. to the N.E. (horse 2-272 ft-) is another ancient Greek*Temple in the Doric style, called Le TavolePaladine Baedeker. Italy III. 11th Edition. 14

210 Route 18. TARANTO. From Naples

by the peasants, who believe each pillar to have been the seat of a Saracen chieftain. Fifteen columns of the peristyle (ten on the N., five on the S. side) ate still standing. The limestone of which they consist is now much disintegrated. — We may now return by the right bank of the Bradano. The neighbouring farm-houses (massarie), such as the Massaria Sansone, are built of massive blocks from the ancient walls of the town. On the coast are traces of a harbour now filled with sand. To the S.W. are rows of tombs which afford an idea of the great extent of the town.

The proceeds of the latest excavations are temporarily exhibited in the red house behind the railway-station (adra. on previous application to the Guardia di Antichita at Bernalda, p. 209). They include a dedicatory inscription to Apollo Lyceus, which revealed the purpose of the temple; a fragment of a metope, some polychrome terracotta mouldings, and archi- tectural fragments from the same temple; a boar, in the archaic style, carved in sheet-bronze, etc.

From Metaponto to Reggio, see R. 19.

The railway from Metaponto to Taranto traverses a flat and monotonous district on the coast. The once fertile country is now very inefficiently cultivated (comp. p. 214). The train crosses several flumare (p. 214). — 1751/2 M. Ginosa; 186 M. Chiatona.

196 M. TArantO. — Hotels. Albergo Europa, Borgo Nuovo, in » pretty situation on the Mave Piccolo commanding good views, R. 272-5, L. i/2> A. i/zfr., well spoken of; Ale. Garibaldi, at the gate, '/iK. from the station, with view towards the Mare Piccolo, R. from 1 fr. 20 c, dirty; Albekgo di Roma, not very good.

Trattorie and Cafes. "Aquila <TOro, near the Alb. Europa, charmingly situated on the coast; Caffi DuiMo, Strada Maggiore; several Cafis in the Ringhiera, often crowded on Saturdays.

Baths beside the Albergo Europa.

Cab from the station to the town, 1/2 M., 60 c. — Two omnibus-lines ply in the town: 1st cl. 15, 2nd cl. 10 c.

British Vice-Consul, Signor O. Alberti.

Taranto, a town with about 40,000 inhab., is situated in the N. angle of the Gulf of Taranto , on a rock which divides the deep inlet here into the Mare Piccolo and Mare Grande and which is made an island by the canal at Porta di Lecce. The Mare Grande is bounded by the Capo S. Vito on the S.E. The ebb and flow of the tide is distinctly visible under the bridges which connect the island with the mainland, one of the few places on the Mediter- ranean where it is perceptible. The harbour is Tjrotected by two flat islands situated in front of it, the Choerades of antiquity, now <S. Paolo (the smaller), occupied by a fort, and <S. Pietro. The entrance to the harbour is between S. Vito and S. Paolo, on each of which a lighthouse is situated. Towards the N.W. the passage is navigable for small boats only.

Tarentum, or Taras, as it was called in Greek, founded to the W. of the mouth of the Galaesus by Spartan Parthenians under the guidance of Phalanthus, B. C. 707, gradually extended its sway over the territory of the Iapygic, which was peculiarly suited for agriculture and sheep-farm- ing. (The sheep of this district wore coverings to protect their lleeces; comp. JJorace, Carm. II. 6, 'ovibus pellitis Galesi'.) Excellent purple- mussels were also found here, so that the twin industries of weaving

Ccuitiere Qtteirolo

T A 1A 1ST T '

toTaranto. TARANTO. IS. Route. 2\\

tt^^VS^^^^^^Vfo * ha.e fu, its extensive commerce and fisheries, its ao-rieultar?^1'8 Stro,ng fleet> Tarentum became the most opulent and powerful citv n?w ln t,cturii!' The coins of the ancient Tarentum are remarkable fo tS tl^l*' In the 4th cent. B. C. the city attained the zenith of its pro*™?"*7" under the guidance of Archytas, the mathematician ; but at the s time its inhabitants had become notorious for their wantonness ""in the war against the Lucanians Tarentum summoned to its aid foreign princes from Sparta and Epirus, and in its struggle with Rome it was aided by Pyrrhus (281), whose general Milo, however, betrayed the city into the hands of the enemy. In the Second Punic War the town es- poused the cause of Hannibal, but was conquered in 209 by the Romans who plundered it, carried off its treasures of art, and sold 30,000 of the citizens as slaves. In the time of Augustus Tarentum, like Naples and Reggio, was still essentially a Greek town, and its trade and industry were still flourishing ('ille terrarum mihi praeter omnes angulus ridet', Hor. Carm. II. 6). Subsequently it became quite Romanized. After the reign of Justinian the town, with the rest of S. Italy, belonged to the Byzant- ine empire. In 927 it was entirely destroyed by the Saracens, but in 967 it was rebuilt by Nicephorus Phocas, in consequence of which Greek once more became the common dialect. In 1063 Robert Ouiscard took the town and bestowed it on his son Boemund. At a later period Frederick II. of Hohenstaufen built the castle of Rocca Imperiale. Philip, son of Charles II. of Anjou, was made prince of Taranto in 1301.

The modern town, occupying the site of the Acropolis of the ancient city, which extended far towards the S. E., is the seat of an archbishop , a sub-prefect , and other dignitaries , and carries on a considerable traffic in oil, oats, and wheat.

The population is densely packed in confined houses and nar- row streets. The town is intersected lengthwise by three streets. The Mare Piccolo is skirted by the Strada Garibaldi, inhabited chiefly by fishermen, whose language is still strongly tinctured with Greek and is often unintelligible to the other Tarentines. This street is connected by a number of lanes with the narrow Strada Maggiore, or main street, the chief business thoroughfare, which intersects the town from N.W. to S.E. The Strada Yittorio Emanuele, skirting the coast, affords a view of the bay and the mountains of Calabria, and forms a pleasant evening promenade.

The now entirely modernised Cathedral of S. Cataldo was founded in the 11th century. It contains a few Byzantine capitals. The chapel of the saint (an Irishman), adjoining the choir on the right, is sumptuously decorated. The crypt is closed. The tower commands a fine view (best in the evening). — The Castle, at the S. end of the town, and the other fortifications date from the time of Ferdinand of Aragon and Philip II. of Spain.

The relics of the ancient city are scanty. The most important is a Doric Temple, discovered by Prof. Viola, of which two in- complete columns may be seen in the court of the Gongregadella Pieta (Strada Maggiore), and some fragments of the stylobate m the cellar^ To judge from he heavy proportions of the columns and the narrow intercolumniation, this is one of the oldest extant examples of the Doric style. - Over the bridge connecting the town with the

14*

212 Route 18. TARANTO.

mainland to the N. of the Porta di Napoli runs a Roman aqueduct, 9^2 M. long, known as II Triglio.

The S.E. gate of the town is named the Porta di Lecce. The canal which here unites the Mare Piccolo with the Gulf of Taranto is 295 ft. wide, and admits war-ships of the largest size. It is crossed by an iron swing-bridge.

On the mainland towards the S.E., where the Tarentum of an- tiquity was situated , a new quarter , the Borgo Nuovo , is now springing up. A Museum (Director, Prof. Luigi Viola) has recently been fitted up in the former convent of S. Pasquale, in the market- place, in which are collected the antiquities unearthed in the course of building operations and excavations in the neighbourhood.

Among the contents is pottery, some of rude workmanship and some ornamented with geometric designs, dating from the pre-Grecian inhabi- tants. The Corinthian vases and their imitations date from the Doric colonists. — The development of the Hellenistic plastic art from the severe style of the 6th cent. B.C. to the more florid taste of the 3rd cent. B.C. is illustrated in numerous votive-statues and reliefs. — Among the more noteworthy objects are a few jewels, glass and ivory articles, two fine marble *Heads: Persephone 'or Aphrodite, from the end of the 5th cent., and Hercules, from the 3rd cent. B.C.; and Reliefs of marine and land fights between Greeks and barbarians, from the Alexandrian period.

Near the hospital are the remains of the Amphitheatre, with cellars. Beside the road to 8. Lucia, near the sea, are large heaps of the purple-yielding mussel shells, dating from antiquity. In this neighbourhood is the Villa Beaumont-Bonelli (gardener Y2 fr.), with a good view, and farther on, 3/4 M. from Taranto, stands the Villa Pepe, once the property of the celebrated Archbishop Capece- latro (d. 1816), who placed on it the inscription — 'Si rursus heio peccasset Adam, forsitan Deus ignosceret', and afterwards that of General Pepe. Although in a dilapidated condition, it still merits a visit, and is thus described by an old writer: —

'This is one of the most charming spots in the neighbourhood. The Mare Piccolo looks like a broad lake. Gentle slopes, covered with olive- groves, rise in every direction. A fine view of Taranto and its towers, perched on a rock, is enjoyed hence, and still higher rise two magnificent palm-trees, the finest of which stands in the courtyard of the archiepiscopal residence. Gardens with oranges, lemons, figs, almonds, and pomegranates slope down from the town to the water's edge, filling the air with their delicious fragrance'.

From this point we obtain a survey of the extensive naval buildings, including the Arsenal, with docks 218 yds. long and 40 yds. broad, and the Mare Piccolo. The last is divided into two halves by the promontory II Pizzone, and the Punta della Penna. Excellent fish abound in this bay. They enter with the tide under the S. bridge, and are netted at night in great numbers. There are no fewer than 93 different species, and they are largely ex- ported in every direction. Shell -fish are also bred here in vast numbers (oysters and others called cozze , the best being the coc- cioli). The situation of the beds is indicated by stakes protrud- ing from the water. The traveller may visit them by boat (1 V2 **•

POLICORO. 19. Route. 213

per hr.), and enjoy his oysters fresh from trie sea (about 50 o. per doz. is sufficient recompense ; bread should be brought).

The climate of Taranto is somewhat cold in winter, and not unbearably hot in summer. The honey and fruit of the neigh- bourhood are in high repute, as they were in ancient times. The date-palm also bears fruit here, but it seldom ripens thoroughly.

In the district between Taranto, Brindisi, and Otranto the venomous tarantola, op tarantella-spider occurs. Its bite is said by the natives to cause convulsions and even madness, for which evils music and dancing are supposed to be effectual remedies. The latter belief gave rise to the curious tarantella-dancing mania, which was epidemic in S. Italy in the 15-17th centuries.

From Taranto to Bari, see p. 199.

The railway describes a curve round the Mare Piccolo, and then turns to the E. — 2041/2 M. Monteiasi-Montemesola ; 208 M. Orot- taglio; 217 M. Francavilla-Fontana. — 221M. Oria, the ancient Uria, from which the Dona family is said to derive its origin, a beautifully situated place with numerous palaces and a small museum (in the. Biblioteca Municipale). 226^2 M. Latiano; 231 M. Mesagne.

240 M. Brindisi, see p. 200.

19. From (Naples) Metaponto to Reggio.

267 M. Railway in 10i/4-17'/s hrs. (fares 48 fr. 60, 34 fr. 5, 21 fr. 90 c). — Fkom Naples to Reggio, 436 M., railway in 21-27 hrs. (fares 79 fr. 45, 55 fr. 6"), 35 fr. 75 c). — Through-tickets to Messina, Catania, and other places in Sicily include transport from the railway-station to the quay at Reggio and the steamer-fare to Messina. — The traveller should supply himself with refreshments for this journey, as the railway-restaurants are poor and few in number.

Metaponto, see p. 209. — The railway crosses the Basento and skirts the Gulf of Tarentum. The soil is very fertile, but miserably cultivated. Although quite capable of yielding two crops annually with proper management, it is allowed, in accordance with the old- fashioned system prevalent here , to lie fallow for two years after each crop. In the marshy districts near Metaponto and at other parts of the line the railway company has surrounded the stations and many of the pointsmen's and signalmen's huts with plantations of the Eucalyptus Globulus , which have already proved extremely beneficial in counteracting the malarious influences of the district. The train crosses several fiumare (p. 228), which were confined within embankments on the construction of the railway. The nu- merous watch-towers are a memento of the unsafe condition of the coast during the middle ages, which is also the reason of the distance of the settlements from the sea.

5 M. (from Metaponto ) 8. Basilio Pisticci , beyond which the train crosses the Cavone. 10 M. Scanzano Montalbano. We next cross the Agri, the ancient Aciris. 13'/2 M. Policoro, near which lay the Greek town of Heraclea (founded by the Tarentines in 432), where Pyrrhus with the aid of his elephants gained his first victory

214 Route 19. SIBARI. From Metaponto

over the Romans, B.C. 280. At Luce, in the vicinity, the celebrated bronze Tabula Heracleensis (Lex Julia Municipalis) , now in the Museum at Naples (p. 60), was discovered in 1753.

The train traverses a wood (Panlano di Policoro), full of the most luxuriant vegetation (myrtles , oleanders , etc.) , and near (20 M.) Nova Siri crosses the river Sinno, the ancient Siris. The line now approaches the sea.

22Y2 M. Eocca Imperiale. The country becomes hilly. 26 M. Monte Giordano; 31 M. Eoseto. To the left, on the coast, is a curious ruin. — The finest part of the line is between Roseto and Rossano. It commands a beautiful view of the precipitous Monte Pollino (7850 ft.) never free from snow except in summer, and of tbe broad valley of the Crati, at the head of which rise the pine- clad Sila mountains (p. 220). — 34 M. Amendolara; 401/.2 M. Tre- bisacce (a good echo at the station); 47 M. Torre Cerchiara.

50 M. Sibari {Rail. Restaurant, tolerable), formerly Buffaloria, whence the line mentioned at p. 218 diverges to Cosenza, derives its name from tbe ancient Sybaris (see below). Malarious district.

The train now crosses the Crati, on which the wealthy and lux- urious Sybaris, founded B.C. 720 by Achaeans and Trcezenians, and destroyed in 510 by the Crotonians , is said to have been situated. Excavations were begun in 1888.

About 6 M. from this point, near Terranova, are the scanty ruins of Thurii, which was founded by the Sybarites after the destruction of their city. In 443 the Athenians sent a colony thither, and with it the historian Herodotus. Owing to the wise legislation of Charondas , Thurii soon at- tained to great prosperity. It formed a league with the Romans in 2S2, and was defended by C. Fabricius against the attacks of the Lucanians, but it was afterwards plundered by Hannibal. In 193 it received a Roman colony, and the new name of Copiae, but it rapidly declined, and was at length entirely deserted.

58 M. Corigliano Calabro. The town, with 11,000 inhab., lies on a height, 4 M. from the station.

651/2 M. Rossano. The town (Albergo & Trattoria Milanese, tolerable, R. from ll/.> fr.), with 18,000 inhab., situated on a hill, and possessing quarries of marble and alabaster, is 5 M. dis- tant. This was the birthplace of St. Nilus. The archiepiscopal library contains a valuable 6th cent. MS. of the Gospels, engrossed on purple vellum and copiously illustrated.

The train runs close to the sea through a mountainous district, and crosses the Trionto. Stations Mirto Crosia, S. Giacomo, Pietra- paola, Campana. 72^2 M. Cariati (Albergo di Sibari, miserable). Farther on, the train traverses pleasant plantations of olives, vines, and rigs. Stat. Crucoli, Cirb, Torre Melissa, and Strongoli. This last, a squalid village with 3000 inhab., situated on a bold emin- ence 4 At. from the station, and reached by a bad road, was the ancient Poetelia, founded according to tradition by Philoctetes, and besieged by Hannibal after the battle of Cannse.

toBeggio. COTRONE. 19. Route. 215

119 M. Cotrone [Albergo della Concordia, Alb. Valente, both at the entrance to the town, with tolerable trattorie; carriage from the station ifofr.), a thriving little seaport with 'J7U0 inhab., situated on a promontory, was in ancient times the famous Achaean colony of Croton, founded B.C. 710, which is said to have been once so populous and powerful as to be able in 510 to send an army of 100,000 men into the field against Sybaris. After its great victory on that occasion, however, Croton declined ; not Ion? afterwards the citizens were defeated by the Locrians on the river Sagras, and in 299 the town fell into the hands of Agathocles of .Syracuse. During the height of the prosperity of the city, Pythagoras, who had been banished from Samos by the tyrant Polycrates, and was then in his 40th year, established himself at Croton. lie attracted a band of disciples and founded his brotherhood here, B.C. 4">0 but was at length banished in consequence of the jealousy of the citizens (comp. p. 203). On the way to the station are large store houses for the fruit which is exported hence in considerable quan- tities. A visit should be paid to the old Castle, dating from the reisn of Charles V., the highest tower of which commands a line \ie\v (admission by applying to an officer or sergeantj. — A pleasant walk may be taken through the Strada Margherita to the harbour.

Oranges and olives thrive admirably in the environs, and are largely exported. Liquorice is also a staple product. An intro- duction to a member of the Baracco family, which is all-powerful in this neighbourhood, will be found of great service (sometimes obtainable through the consuls at Naples).

About 7 31. to the S.E. is the Capo delle Colonne, or Capo Xao, alow promontory, much exposed to the wind. (Route to it by land 2'/2 hrs., very rough ; boat 6-10 fr.) As the steamer rounds this cape , the eye is arrested by a solitary column, rising conspicuously on massive substruc- tures above the few modern buildings of the place. This is now the sole relic of the Temple of Hera of the Lacinian Promontory , once the most revered divinity on the Gulf of Tarentum. The worship of Hera has been replaced by that of the Madonna del Capo, to whose church, close to the tem- ple, a number of young girls from Cotrone ('le verginelle") go every Satur- day in procession, with bare feet. To the S.W. of this promontory are three others, the Capo delle Cimiti, the Capo Rizzulo, and the Capo Castella.

Beyond Cotrone the train quits the coast, and traverses a hilly district. 12372 M. Pudano. — Near (1291/2 M.) Cutro it passes through a long tunnel (5 min.). Stations Jsola- Capo- Rizzuto, Roc- cabernarda, Botricello, Cropani, Sellia, Simmeri.

156 M. Catanzaro - Marina ; about l/2 M. from the station is La Rocceletta, the ruins of the mediaeval abbey of Roccella. — From the Marina a branch-line (bl/-2 M. in 25 min.) runs via S. Maria to Sala, the station for the loftily situated town of Catanzaro.

Catanzaro. — Hotels. Alb. di Lionetti, Centeale , both tolerable- Alb. Sekkavalle. — Trattoria Cenlrale, in the Piazza. Farther along the Cors'o Cafi del Oenio.

Diligence at 6 p.m. to Tiriolo (p. 220) in connection with the dilieenpP0 to Cosenza and Eeggio. — Mule 3-5 fr. a day. 6entes

British Vice-Consul, Signor Alphonso Cricelli.

216 Route 19. CATANZARO. From Metap onto

Catanzaro, with 28,600 inhab. (including the suburbs), the capital of the province of the same name, prettily situated 8 M. from the sea, possesses numerous velvet and silk manufactories, and luxuriant olive-groves. The Cathedral contains a Madonna with S. Domenico, a good Venetian picture of the 16th century. Fine views are obtained from the campanile and from the ViaBeUavista (N. side of the town). Near the castle is a small Provincial Museum (key at the prefecture, not always obtainable), containing coins, vases, and other antiquities from the Greek settlements of the district (tine *Helmet from Tiriolo ; statuette of yEsculapius ; among the pictures, a Lucretia by a Venetian master, and a Madonna by An- tonello Saliba, 1508). The Castle was built by Robert Guiscard. The climate is cool in summer, and snow often lies in winter. Many wealthy families reside here. The handsome Calabrian costume is still frequently seen here, particularly on Sundays. Numerous pleasant excursions may be made hence.

Beyond Catanzaro the line skirts the coast and passes through several promontories by means of tunnels.

160 M. Squillace, the ancient Scylaceum, is perched on an al- most inaccessible rock, 4*/2 M. from the station and nearly opposite the lofty Monte Moscia, which here projects into the sea; it is not visible from the railway.

Cassiodovius, the private secretary of Theodoric the Great , was horn at Scylaceum , and after the death of his master retired to his native place, where he founded a monastery , wrote a number of learned works, and died in 575, upwards of 90 years old. — To the N. of Squillace the Emp. Ot/w II. was defeated in July, 982, by the Arabs, who had crossed over from Sicily. He himself escaped almost by a miracle, and succeeded in reaching Eossano, where he met his consort Theophano. Otho did not long survive this reverse; he died at Rome in December, 983, and was interred in the old church of St. Peter.

The train passes through the promontory by means of two tunnels. Stations Montauro, Soverato, Sun Sostene, Sanf Andrea, Badolato, Santa Caterina , Monasterace- Stilo (near which are iron-works), Iiiace. lWdi/.2 M. Caulonia. The river Alaro is supposed to be the Sagras of antiquity, where an army of 130,000 Crotonians is said to have been utterly routed by 10,000 Locrians. On this river lies Castelvetere, on the site of the ancient Achfean Caulonia, where Pythagoras sought refuge after his expulsion from Croton.

197 M. Roccella Ionica, with 6500 inhab. ; the old town, with its ruined castle , is picturesquely situated on a rock overhanging the sea. — Near the station of (201l/2 M.) Gioiosa Ionica is a small ancient amphitheatre. From this point the magnificent scenery resembles that of Greece. 204 M. Siderno Marina.

2071/2 M. Gerace (Alb. Locri, Via Garibaldi, R. H/2 ft., clean). The town, with 9600 inhab., and a cathedral, originally Romanesque, in which the antique columns are still extant, lies on the slope of a lofty spur of the Apennines, having risen from the ruins of Locroi

toReggio. REGGIO. 19. Route. 217

Epizephyrioi, the once celebrated colony of the Loerians, founded B.C. 683, provided with a salutary code of laws by Zaleucus (664), and extolled by Pindar and Demosthenes for its wealth and love of art. The ruins of the ancient city near Torre di Oerace are now oon- cealed by an orange-garden.

The Passo del Mercante, a mountain path, leads from Gerace through beautiful woods, and over the lofty Aspromonie , to Cittanova. The top of the pass commands a delightful view of the sea in both directions. Thence via Radicena to Gioia Tauro (p. 221) or to Seminara, 2'/2 31. to the S.E. of Palmi (p. 222), about 37 M. in all.

Stations: Ardore, Bovalino, Bianconuovo. Two tunnels. 228 M. Brancaleone. The line now skirts the Capo Spartivento, the Pro- montorium Herculis of antiquity, the S.E. extremity of Calabria (station, 232 M.). Tunnel. 236 M. Palizzi. The train turns towards the W. and then nearly to the N. From this point to Pellaro the railway is bounded on the right by barren rocks and sand-hills, intersected now and again by the stony beds of the mountain tor- rents, dry in summer and often overgrown with oleanders. Tunnel. Then : 239'/2 M. Bova; 242 M. Amendolea; 247 M. Melito.

253 M. Saline di Reggio. The train affords a view of the coast and mountains of Sicily, and rounds the Capo dell' Armi, the Pro- montorium Leucopetrae, which was in ancient times regarded as the termination of the Apennines. Cicero landed here in B.C. 44, after the murder of Caesar, having been compelled by adverse winds to turn back from his voyage to Greece, and he was then per- suaded by citizens of Rhegium to go to Velia, where he met Brutus.

256 M. Lazzaro; 260 M. Pellaro; 263l/2 M. S. Gregorio.

267 M. Reggio. — There are three Railway Stations here: Reggio Centrale, Reggio Succursale, and Reggio Porto, the last for through-passengers to or from Messina.

Hotels. -AlbeegoVittoeia, R., L., & A. 31/2, B. 3/4, lunch 2'/2, D. 4fr. ; Alb. Centeale, Capeera, well spoken of, and several more in the Corso Garibaldi. Novaka, in the Strada Plebiscito; Teinaceia, on the Marina. — The larger hotels have also good trattorie. — Cafes : SpinelU, in the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele ; Giordano, Corso Garibaldi.

Carriages (stand in the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele), per drive 80 c, at night 1 fr. 20 c. ; per hr. l'/2 fr., at night 2 fr. 20 c.

Steamer to Messina every morning and evening, in about 1 hr. , fares 4 or 3 fr. (pp. 213, 322) ; embarcation and landing 25 c. (bargaining neces- sary); the passage may also be made in one of the Naples mail-steamers, which cross several times weekly (landing or embarcation 50 c).

Reggio, called Reggio di Calabria to distinguish it from Reggio nell' Emilia, is the capital of the province of the same name, and an archiepiscopal residence, with 16,000 inhabitants. Known in antiquity as Rhegium, it was originally a Eubcean colony, and was peopled in B.C. 723 by fugitive Messenians. Rhegium soon rose to prosperity, but it also early suffered the hardships of war. In 387 B. C. the town was captured and destroyed by Dionysius I. of Syra- cuse, and in 270 B. C. by the Romans. In the middle ages it suffered the same fate, successively at the hands of Totila the Goth in 549, the Saracens in 918, the Pisans in 1005, Robert Guiscard

218 Route 19. REGGIO.

in 1060, and the Turks in 1552 and 1597. The town was almost entirely destroyed by the great earthquake of 1783, and it therefore now presents a modern appearance, with its broad and handsome streets extending from the sea to the beautiful hills in the rear, which are studded with numerous and handsome villas.

The Cathedral, a spacious basilica with pillars, dates from the 17th cent. ; the Cappella del Sacramento, to the left of the high- altar, is richly adorned with coloured marble. On the facade is a quotation from the Acts of the Apostles. — In the small piazza to the right, at the back of the cathedral, is the Museo Comunale, containing fine terracottas, lamps, statuettes, and vases (including a few very antique specimens and native examples with curious or- namentation) ; a relief of a woman dancing, of the 6th cent. B.C., with its architectural framework painted black, red, and yellow; similar fragments of a later date, with elegant ornamentation on a bright red ground; mosaics, small bronzes, coins, inscriptions, etc. — Above the cathedral rises the Castello.

In the piazza adjoining the railway-station is a statue of Gari- baldi. — A military band often plays in the Piazza "Vittorio Emanuele, which is embellished with a statue of Italia. — The Strada Reggio Campi, which runs along the heights behind the town, forms a charming promenade with varying views (especially fine by evening -light) of the environs and the Sicilian coast. The distance from Reggio to Messina is about 63/4 M.

Excursions. At the back of Reggio rises the imposing, forest-clad As- promonte, the W. extremity of the range which in ancient times bore the name of Sila; the highest point is the Montalto (6420 ft.). The summit is overgrown with beech-trees, the slopes partly with pines. Here, in the vici- nity of Reggie, Garibaldi was wounded and taken prisoner by the Italian troops under Pallavicini , 29th Aug., 1862. The ascent, which is very laborious, is best undertaken from Villa S. Giovanni (p. 222) or from Scilla (p. 222; two mules and one guide for a day and a half 14 fr.). If possible the start should be made early on a moonlight night. The summit, which is reached in 9 hrs., commands an imposing view of the sea, the islands, and Sicily.

To Scilla , see p. 222. — Ascent of the Mte. Elia , see p. 222. This excursion is best made by taking the train to Palmi, ascending the hill on foot in 1 hr., and descending through beautiful chestnut wood to Bag- nara in 3 hrs. Travelling in the province of Reggio has always been considered free from hazard.

20. From Sibari to Reggio via Cosenza.

From Sibari to Cosenza, 43 M., railway in about 3 hrs. (fares 7 fr. 80, 5 fr. 50, 3 fr. 55 c). — From Cosenza to Rosarno, about 87 M., high- road traversed by Vetture Gorriere and diligences (Giornaliera), in about 25 hrs. — From Rosarno to Reggio, 38 M., railway in about 3 hrs. — Those who have time should go by carriage from Palmi to Reggio.

Sibari, a station on the Naples and Reggio railway, see p. 214. — 6 M. Cassano al Ionio, the station for Cassano (9000 inhab.), a beautifully situated town 5 M. to the N., with warm baths, and an

COSENZA. 30. Route. 219

ancient castle on a lofty rock. The castle affords a magnificent survey of the valleys of the Coscile and the Crati , the Sybaris and the Crathis of antiquity. The wild, barren limestone mountains rise here almost immediately from the plain , culminating in the Monte Pollino. The Torre di Milo is pointed out here as the tower whence the stone was thrown that caused the death of T. Annius Milo, when he was besieging Cosa on behalf of Pompey.

10 M. Spezzano - Castrovillari ; Spezzano is 5 M. and Castro- villari 91/2 M. to the S. of the station (p. 208). Beyond (15 M.J Tarsia the train reaches the valley of the Crati , which it ascends, crossing several affluents of that river. Stations : 8. Marco-Rog- giano, Mongrassano - Cervico, Torano - Lattarico, Acri- Bisignano, Montalto-Rose, and Rende-San-Fili. To the W. are the Calabrian spurs of the Apennines.

43 M. Cosenza [Albergo Vetere, on the promenade, good cuisine, E. not scrupulously clean; Due Lionetti , with the good Trat- toria Centrale), the ancient Consentia, once the principal city of the Bruttii, is now the capital of the province of Cosenza, with 16,700 inhab., and an archiepiscopal residence, containing well-built houses and palaces of wealthy landed -proprietors and manufacturers. It lies on the N. slope of a hill which separates the Crati from the Busento above the confluence of these streams. The town is commanded by a castle (fine view), the walls of which, though 9 ft. in thickness, have been unable to resist the shocks of earthquakes. In 1181 the town was destroyed by an earthquake, and again on 4th Feb., 1783, when upwards of 30,000 persons perished in this district. Serious damage was also sustained from the earthquakes of 1854 and 1870.

Alaric, King of the West Goths, died at Cosenza in 410, after he had plundered Rome and made an attempt to pass over into Sicily. His coffin and his treasures are said to have been buried in the bed of the river Buxentius (Busento). The site is unknown, but a tradition of Cosenza places it at the union of the Busento and the Crati, near the station.

The Gothic Cathedral contains the tomb of Louis III. of Anjou, who died here in 1435, eighteen months after his marriage with Margaret of Savoy. The church is now being restored according to the ancient plans which have been rediscovered. — Near the Pre- fettura and the new Theatre are tasteful gardens. Here a monu- ment, with an allegorical figure of Liberty by Gius. Pacchioni of Bologna, was erected in 1879 to the Brothers Bandiera and other participators in the Calabrian rising of 1844. Farther on are several busts: to the right, Bernardino Telesio, the philosopher (d. 1588), to the left, Garibaldi, Cavour, Mazzini. — A picturesque footpath leads from the promenade up the valley of the Crati to the Castello (p. 219), which commands a fine view. The return may be made through the valley of the Busento, the entire walk taking about 1 hr.

220 Route 20. ROGLIANO. From Sibari

From Cosenza to Paola (p. 223), where the steamers touch three times weekly, a drive of 31/2 hrs. (seat in a diligence on these days 5 fr. ; in summer at night only).

Another road leads to the E. from Cosenza to S. Giovanni in Fiori (diligence daily in 12 hrs. , starting on the other side of the Crati ; in winter and spring going only as far as Spezzano Grande). Thence we may proceed by bridle-paths to Cotrone (p. 215). S. Giovanni is the principal place in the Sila (locally known as 'Monte Nero'') , a lofty and wooded range of mountains, extending about 37 M. from N. to S., 25 M. from E. to W., attaining a height of 6325 ft., and embracing an extensive network of val- leys. These mountains, which consist of granite and gneiss, are remarkable for their beauty and fertility; their slopes are studded with numerous villages (picturesque costumes), while higher up they are clothed with chestnuts, oaks, beeches, and pines. The E. and S. slopes descend to the Gulf of Taranto. In ancient times these mountains supplied the Athenians and Sicilians with wood for ship-building, and they were famed for their cattle. The snow does not disappear from the higher regions until the latter end of May, or June, after which they afford a delightful summer abode to the natives with their flocks. This beautiful district, which has very rarely been explored by travellers , is still in a very primitive condition. Letters of introduction to influential inhabitants should be procured at Naples or Messina by intending explorers. The best months for the tour are July, August, and September.

The Road to Rosasno ascends gradually through a well-cul- tivated district. The heights are clothed with oaks and chestnuts.

9^2 M. Rogliano, a town of 5500 inhah. on a hill to the left, commands a charming view of the fertile country and the surrounding mountains, above which on the right rises the M. Co- cuzzo (5050 ft.). The road descends into the ravine of the Sa- vuto, the ancient Sabatus, ascends Le Crocelle di Agri folio, an abrupt ridge of the Apennines, and leads by Carpanzano, Coraci, Arena Bianca, and through ravines and forest, to —

34 M. Tiriolo, a town with 4000 inhab., loftily situated on the watershed between the Corace , which falls into the bay of fSquillace, and the Lamato, which descends to the bay of S. Eufe- mia, the ancient Sinus Terinaeus. Near Tiriolo, a name perhaps derived from the Ager Taurianus, numerous coins and other anti- quities have been found. In 1640 a bronze tablet (now at Vienna) was discovered here, bearing the Senatusconsultum against the Bacchanalia, of B. C. 186, mentioned by Livy (xxxix. 18).

Before Tiriolo is reached, a road to the left crosses the river Corace and leads to (9>/2 M.) Catanzaro (diligence, see p. 215).

To the right a road leads to (11 M.) Nicastro, an episcopal town on the hillside, in the now ruined castle of which Frederick II. once for several years confined his son, the German king Henry VII., who had rebelled against him in 1235. The latter died at Martorano in 1242, and was buried at Cosenza. Towards the sea, 3 M. from Nicastro, lies S. Eufemia , with a celebrated Benedictine monastery founded by Robert Guiscard, but destroyed by the earthquake of 1638.

The road to Reggio traverses a chain of hills, and then crosses the Lamato, the right bank of which it skirts for some distance, commanding almost uninterrupted views of the bays of Squillace and S. Eufemia, which are here barely 19 M. apart.

to Reggio. MILETO. SO. Route. 221

We next pass Casino Chiriaco and cross the plain of Maida, where in 1806 the English auxiliaries of the Bourbons under Sir John Stuart defeated the French under Regnier and drove them out of Calabria. The road crosses the fertile , but un- healthy plain via, Francavilla to Torre Masdea.

56 M. Fizzo, a small town with 8500 inhab., situated on a sand- stone rock on the coast. Below it are the ruins of the old castle where Joachim Murat, king of Naples, who had landed here the day before, was shot on 13th Oct. 1815. Outside the town is a Monu- ment to those who perished in the revolt of the brothers Bandiera (p. 219). — '■ The Naples and Messina steamers touch here(p. 223).

The road, running near the coast, next leads to —

65 M. Monteleone (Albergo d'ltalia, tolerable ; one-horse carr. to Gioia, in 51/2 hrs., 10 fr.), on the site of the ancient Hipponion, the Vibo Valentia of the Romans, a loftily situated town with 12,000 inhab., which was much damaged by the earthquake of 1783. The old castle was erected by Frederick II. Pleasant promenade com- manding a charming view of the sea, Sicily, and the Lipari Islands.

A road leading N. to the coast (3 M.) passes through the village of Bivona, on the site of the ancient port of Vibo, destroyed by the Saracens in 983.

Beyond Monteleone a road diverges to the right to Tropea (p. 224), where the steamers from Naples to Messina touch twice a week , and whence the Lipari Islands (E. 33) may he visited. Tropea will be a station on the new railway from Nicotera (see below) to Pizzo.

The road now traverses a hilly district to —

74^/2 M. Mileto, once the favourite residence of Count Roger of Sicily, whose son, King Roger, was born here. Pop. 5000. It con- tains the ruins of the abbey of S. Trinita founded by him, where his remains and those of his first wife Eremberga formerly reposed in two ancient sarcophagi which are now in the museum at Naples. — The mountains of Sicily, and particularly the summit of JEtna, now become conspicuous in the horizon.

From Mileto a mountain-path leads E. to the (5 M.) grand ruins of the once celebrated monastery of Santo Stefano del Bosco, situated in a lonely valley at the foot of the Apennines. Near the neighbouring village of Soriano are the extensive ruins of the Dominican monastery of S. Do- menieo Soriano, also destroyed by the earthquake of 1783; and, on the farther side of the low ridge of Monte Astore, the remains of the Certosa, in which St. Bruno established his austere order of Carthusians in 1094, and where he died and was interred in 1101.

From Mileto the road gradually descends from the heights bounding the bay of Gioia on theN., and reaches ^^MORosarno, a station on the railway between Nicotera and Reggio (see below). The picturesquely situated town (4000 inhab.) was destroyed by the earthquake of 1783.

The Railway from Nicotera to Reggio (4372 M. , in about

3'/2 hrs.) skirts the coast. — Nicotera, see p. 224. b1/^ M. Rosarno.

12 M. Gioia Tauro, on the site of the ancient Metaurum, a

222 Route 20. PALMI.

desolate-looking place, situated on tlie coast to the right, and an extensive depot of oil.

The line crosses the Marro, the ancient Metaurus, a river famed for its fish. The earthquake of 1783 was particularly destructive in this neighbourhood. The earth opened in many places , swallow- ing up houses entire, and filling up several valleys.

1772 M. Palmi (Vittoria, pens. 5 fr., clean; Roma, R. only. — Trattoria Louvre, in the main street, fair. — Cab to the town 1 fr.), with 15,500 inhab. , surrounded by orange and olive plantations, and affording beautiful views of the coast and the island of Sicily, particularly from the Oiardino puhblico.

The town (450 ft.) is situated about halfway up the "Monte Elia, which is easily ascended in 1 hr. by a good path through olive-woods. The top commands a superb view of the Faro, the castle of Scilla, the town and harbour of Messina, and the majestic iEtna in the background. The N. coast of Sicily is visible as far as Milazzo ; out at sea are Stromboli and the Lipari Islands ; to the N. the bay of Gioia as far as Capo Vaticano. We may descend in 20 min. to the road leading from Palmi to Bagnara, at a point about 8 M. from the station of Bagnara (short-cuts for walkers).

The line from Palmi to Reggio, traversing chestnut and olive plantations, skirts the E. side of the Mte. Elia (see above), on the S. slope of which is situated —

23 (/2 M. Bagnara. Farther on the line skirts the sea, affording a succession of fine views.

Walkers from Palmi or Monte Elia (see above) need not descend to the town , but follow the road above , which does not reach the coast until beyond Bagnara.

26 M. Favazzina.

29 M. Scilla (Locanda di Baviera, on the Marina, unpretend- ing and moderate ; a relative of the landlord is recommended as a guide to Aspromonte), the ancient Scylla, with 8000 inhab., re- built since the terrible earthquake of 1783. The castle, situated on a promontory commanding the town, once the seat of the prin- ces of Scilla, was occupied by the English after the battle of Maida (p. 221), and defended for 18 months (until 1808) against the French. Fine view of Sicily, across the Straits of Messina, here 3 M. broad. The silk and wine produced here enjoy a high repu- tation. Numerous swordflsh (pesce spada) are caught here in July. Ascent of the Aspromonte, see p. 218.

The rock of Scylla , represented in Homer's Odyssey as a roaring and voracious sea-monster — a beautiful virgin above, and a monster with a wolfs body and dolphin's tail below — is depicted by the poets in conjunction with the opposite Charybdis as fraught with imminent danger to all passing mariners. The currents and eddies in the straits are still very rapid, but it is now believed that the Charybdis of the ancients is by no means exactly opposite to the whirlpool of Scylla, as the saying Hncidis in Scyllam, cupiens vitare Charybdiiii' appears to indicate, but outside the harbour of Messina, 7'/2 M. from Scilla, at the point now called Gurofalo (comp. p. 322).

32 M. Cannitello. — 34 M. Villa S. Giovanni (*Trattoria; oue- horse carnage to Scilla and back 6-7 fr., incl. halt), prettily situated ; ascent of the Aspromonte, see p. 217.

PAOLA. 22. Route. 223

SG1^ M. Catona, opposite Messina (p. 313). We are now in a region of luxuriant vegetation, with oranges, pomegranates, palms, and aloes. — 381/2 M. Oallico ; 39l/2 M. Arehi- Reggio ; 41 M. 8. Caterina-Reggio ; 42 M. Reggio-Succursale.

43y2M. Reggio- Centrale, see p. 217.

21. From Naples to Messina by Sea.

Communication between Naples and Messina is maintained by the Italian Societti Florio-Rubattino. The voyage lasts 14-18 hrs. (fares 43 fr. 60, 27 fr. 60 c. , incl. provisions). Besides the direct steamers (twice a week), the same company despatches vessels thrice a week to Sicily, touch- ing at the chief ports on the Calabrian coast, and taking 37-52 hrs. in all. — Embarcation with luggage 1 fr.

"We enjoy a magnificent retrospective view of the lovely bay. After 2^2 hrs. the steamer enters the strait between Capri, with the rugged and precipitous Lo Capo (p. 156), and the Punta di Campanella (p. 150). Shortly afterwards a view of the Bay of Salerno is disclosed. As the sun sets and the vessel gradually stands out to sea, Mt. Vesuvius presents a most majestic appearance.

On the Direct Voyage the steamer reaches the open sea about dusk. On the following forenoon the volcano of the island of Stromboli , near which the steamer afterwards passes, becomes visible on the right. The mountain-range of the N. coast of Sicily nest comes in sight , presenting a very striking appearance. As the vessel steers for the Strait of Messina we observe Scilla on the left, and the Faro on the right. Arrival at Messina, see p. 313.

The Coasting Steamers pass the promontories della Licosa and dello Spartivento and the Bay of Policastro during the night. The once powerful town of Policastro (4000 inhab.) was destroyed by Robert Guiscard in 1055, and by the Turks in 1542.

On the following morning, Monte Pollino (7325ft.), which terminates the Neapolitan Apennines, is the most conspicuous mountain, and adjoining it begin the Calabrian Mts. As the vessel proceeds southwards to Paola we enjoy a succession of fine views. The coast is studded with numerous towns and villages, most of them situated on the heights , between which valleys descend to empty their brooks into the sea. Verbicaro is seen somewhat inland, then Diamante, at the base of a lofty cliff. Farther on, Belvedere with 4600 inhab., charmingly situated on the slopes of the mountain. Then, beyond a small promontory, in the bay to the S., lies Cetraro, the inhabitants of which are anchovy- fishers. We next observe Quardia, on a lofty hill, with warm baths ; then Fuscaldo, with 10,000 inhab. and the ruins of an old castle.

Faola, with 8500 inhab., beautifully situated in a ravine and on the slope of the mountain, carries on an extensive oil and wine trade. The town, which some suppose to be the Palycus of the Greeks, was the birthplace of S. Francesco di Paola, founder of the mendicant order of Minorites. — Diligence for Cosenza, see p. 219.

224 Route 22. PIZZO.

After a halt of at>out l!/2 hr. the vessel resumes her voyage. On the coast are the villages of San Lucido, Fiumefreddo, and Bel- monte, at the hack of which rises the conspicuous Monte Cocuzzo (5050 ft.). Amantea next becomes visible, supposed to he the ancient Amantia of Bruttium. The town and fortress, erected on a lofty rock, were garrisoned in 1806 by royalists, who repulsed the French troops; but, after severe sufferings from famine, they were compelled to surrender the following year. To the S. of Amantea the Savuto falls into the sea. The coast becomes flat and less richly cultivated. Farther on, Nocera; then past the Capo Suvero to the Oolfo di Santa Eufemia, at the S. end of which lies —

Pizzo (see p. 221 ; halt of 1 hr.).

At the S. E. angle of the bay lies Monteleone, see p. 221.

The steamboat rounds Capo Zambrone, and reaches Tropea, an ancient town (6000 inhab.) in a delightful situation, the climate of which is much extolled. To the S. is the Capo Vaticano with its lighthouse, projecting far into the sea. In the bay lies Nicotera, near the influx of the Mesima, the present terminus of the rail- way from Reggio (p. 222). Gioia Tauro, see p. 221. Soon after Pizzo is quitted the Lipari Islands (R. 33) become visible to the W.; Stromboli, with its continually smoking crater , is the most conspi- cuous. Off Capo Vaticano the Sicilian mountains suddenly appear.

Palmi , Bagnara, Scilla, see p. 222. The Aspromonte range, with the Montalto (6420 ft.), looks uninteresting from this side. We now enter the Strait of Messina, which presents a busy scene during the daytime.

Messina, see p. 313.

22. From Naples to Palermo by Sea.

Steamers of the Society Florio - Rubattino daily in the afternoon in 12-13 hrs. ; fares 40 fr. 60, 25 fr. 60 c., including provisions (comp. pp. xvii, 26). — The pas senger should be on deck early next morning to enjoy the beautiful approach to Sicily and the entrance into the harbour.

Beyond Capri the steamer reaches the open sea. Early next morning (between 5 and 6 o'cl.) the Lipari Islands (R. 33) are seen to the S. (left); later the island of Vstica (p. 276) to the W., long remaining visible ; then, about 10 a.m., the towering moun- tains of Sicily ; to the extreme right is the Capo di Oallo, nearer rises Monte Pellegrino (2065 ft. ; p. 268), and to the left is the Monte Catalfano (1230 ft.), with a smaller pointed promontory, guarding the E. entrance to the Bay of Palermo. At length we per- ceive the beautiful and extensive city. A little to the left of Monte Pellegrino are the lofty Monte Cuccio (3445 ft.), Monreale (p. 271), and farther distant the Monte Oriffone. — Palermo, see R. 23.

SICILY.

General Remarks.

Strabo, the Greek geographer, in one passage calls Sicily an 'addition' in another a 'detached portion' of Italy; and there is indeed not one of the surrounding islands so intimately allied with the great peninsula which bisects the Mediterranean. Goethe has justly observed that, with- out Sicily, Italy would lose much of its charm: 'the climate cannot be too highly extolled ; the beauties are innumerable.'' This cannot fail to be experienced by every traveller who forms acquaintance with this 'gem among islands', which is the most important link between Italy, Greece, and North Africa, not only in a geographical, but also in a histor- ical and artistic sense. Those whose time and resources permit are there- fore strongly recommended to visit Sicily before proceeding homewards.

Plan of Tour. The best seasons for travelling in Sicily are the months of April and May, or October and November. Even in January the weather is often fine and settled (comp. pp. 231, 232). The ascent of JEtna, in spring is possible , but the best period is August or September , after the first showers of autumn have cleared the atmosphere.

The principal points in the island may be visited in a fortnight or three weeks without divergence from the railway. The following distri- bution of time may be followed : — At Palermo 3-4 days ; the towns in the W. part of the island (Segesta, Selinunto, Mazzara, Marsala, Trapani) 4-5 days (Segesta and Selinunto alone 2-3 days) ; from Palermo via. Termini to Cefalu 1 day ; back via Termini and Roccapalumba to Girgenti, 1/2-I day ; at Girgenti 1 day; from Girgenti to Catania 1 day; Catania and Mt. JStna

2 days ; at Syracuse IV2 day ; at Taormina 1 day ; at Messina, with excur- sions to Reggio or Palmi 2 days. The best mode of exploring the very picturesque N. Coast is indicated at p. 307. — Travellers with limited time should begin at Messina and return to Naples from Palermo, as this is the only route with daily steamers.

The most energetic of travellers, however, will take at least a month to exhaust the beauties of the island. The following routes are the most important : — At Palermo 4-5 days ; by land in 4 days, or by steamer direct in 15 hrs. from Palermo to Messina ; in the latter case Milazzo and Patti (Tyndaris) should be visited from Messina, 2 days; Messina, with excursions as above, 2 3 days; Taormina 1 day; Catania and ^Etna

3 days; stay at Syracuse 2-3 days; by railway or steamer to Girgenti; at Girgenti 1 day; by land in 2 days to Sciacca, Selinunto, and Castelvetrano; thence by Calatafimi (Segesta) in 1 day, or, if Marsala and Trapani be included, in 4 days, to Palermo.

Geography and Statistics.

Sicily (Greek Sikelia or Trinacria) is the largest island in the Mediterranean. Its area, according to the official estimate, is 29,241 sq. kilometres, but other recent estimates give it at about 25,800 sq. kilometres, i. e. about 10,000 Engl. sq. M. The form of the island is an irregular triangle. Closely connected with Italy

Baedeker. Italy III. 11th Edition. 15

226 SICILY. Geography and Statistics.

by geological structure as well as in geographical position , it forms a continuation of the great Apennine range which stretches across the Mediterranean from the main trunk of Europe to Africa, a submerged prolongation of the range being also distinctly tra- ceable. The distance between Cape Boeo and Cape Bon is only 75 M. , and the depth in the direct line never exceeds 100 fath- oms, except in one narrow belt running S.E. towards the island of Pantellaria (248 fathoms), while the Straits of Pantellaria, separating Sicily from Africa, are as a rule not more than 50 fath- oms deep. This submerged elevation is probably of volcanic origin (comp. p. 380). To the N. of Sicily lies another volcanic tract, the eruptions of which have produced the Lipari Islands. The S.E. portion of the island of Sicily is of the tertiary formation, and is connected with the Malta Islands by a submarine table-land. The virtual W. apex of Sicily is formed by Maritimo, the westernmost of the Aega- dian Islands, which lie in shallow water. The Straits of Messina are only 2 M. wide at their narrowest point, and at their shallowest part (near the same point) 51 fathoms deep , while on the N. and E., on the contrary, the shores of the island descend abruptly into the deepest parts of the Mediterranean, a sounding of no less than 2000 fathoms having been made within about 30 M. of Cape Passero. Mountains. Sicily is of a hilly or mountainous character through- out, and contains no plains of any extent. It may be roughly de- scribed as a table-land of a mean level of 2300-2800 ft., somewhat tilted towards the N., and higher at the edges than in the interior. The loftiest of the non-volcanic summits are towards the N., where a range of mountains runs from the Straits of Messina along the coast, forming a prolongation of the Apennine range which tra- verses the Italian peninsula. The continuity of the chain remains unbroken as far the valley of Polizzi, a place of historical interest, whence the Hirnera Septentrionalis (Fiume Orande) flows N. to the Tyrrhenian, and the Himera Meridionalis (Fiume Salso) S. to the African Sea. The W. part of the range , which consists rather of detached groups of mountains, is the only one which has received a distinguishing name from the natives, who call it the Madonie. Its highest summits are the Pizzo dell' Antenna (6480 ft.), the loftiest mountain in the island after iEtna, and the Monte Salvatore, both covered with snow during one half of the year. Scientific geographers apply the name of Nebrodic Mountains to the Madonie together with the mountains to the N. and N.W. of JEtna (where the Monte Sori attains a height of 6050 ft.), while they distinguish that section of the range which abuts on the Straits of Messina as the Peloric Chain (the Monies Neptunii or Pelorides of the ancients).

To the W. of the important watershed of the two Himeras the mountains still form a chain or range, though of less distinct char- acter, the highest summits of which all lie near the N. coast. As we proceed towards the W. , however, single mountains or

Oeography and Statistics. SICILY. 227

isolated clusters become more prominent, till they end at last in the pyramid of Monte S. Giuliano, the ancient Eryx, rising precipitously from the sea and standing like a gigantic sentinel to guard the W. coast of the island. From this great northern range, running fromE. to W., various minor chains branch off towards the S. and S.W. into the heart of the island, leaving both on the E. and W. small littoral plains between them and the sea.

In the S. E. corner of the island is a mountainous district of a very peculiar and interesting geological character, united with the other mountain-systems only by a narrow ridge near Caltagirone. In the heart of it rises the Monte Lauro (3230 ft.), whence the considerable rivers of this part of Sicily descend in all directions through profound ravines and valleys , the sides of which are honeycombed with caverns. These erosions reveal to us the fact, that , while the surface of the mountain consists chiefly of tertiary shell-limestone , this formation alternates lower down with strata of dark volcanic rock. Nearly the whole remainder of the island, particularly the districts in the middle, and to the S. and S.W., is also composed of the tertiary formation. To this formation, represented mainly by marl, clay, and gypsum, belong extensive deposits of sulphur and rock-salt, the first of which contribute so materially to Sicily's wealth and prosperity, while the latter are as yet almost untouched. The sulphur-strata extend westwards as far as the secondary mountain-ranges near Salemi and Partanna, and eastwards as far as the mountains of Judica and Rammacca. Whatever part of the interior of the island the traveller visits, he is sure to stumble upon a sulphur-mine, or meet long trains of waggons or mules conveying this 'yellow gold' of Sicily to the coast. The richest mines are at Lercara (p. 292), situated on the watershed between the Tyrrhenian and African Seas, to theN. of Girgenti, and near Caltanissetta (p. 299). — The tertiary formations in Sicily attain a most unwonted altitude; the huge rock on which lies Castro- giovanni, the historical Enna (p. 300), rears its head no less than 3270 ft. above the level of the sea. — The mountains on the N. coast, with the ramifications extending to the Eryx and the Monte San Calogero near Sciacca, belong to the secondary formations, and consist chiefly of calcareous limestone. This limestone is perforated by numerous caverns, in which the bones of huge pachydermata, denizens of the country before its separation from the African con- tinent, and various prehistoric antiquities are frequently found. — The Peloric range and the mountains of the N. coast from Messina to Cape Calava are composed of crystalline rocks of the primary for- mations, but their bases are overlaid with strata of recent tertiary deposits, so that the older formation seldom comes to light on the coast itself. The identity of the geological structure of this part of the island with that of Calabria is a proof of the intimate connec- tion between Sicily and the Italian peninsula. The rock of Scylla

228 SICILY. Geography and Statistics.

(p. 222) , visible from the Faro , and the peninsula of Milazzo (p. 312), are both formed of fine-grained granite and gneiss. The S. margins of the Peloric Mts. and of the Aspromonte (p. 218) consist of clay-slate.

Mt. Mtna (10,870 ft.), the loftiest mountain in Sicily and the largest volcano in Europe, rises on the E. side of the island, and is completely detached from the other mountains by the deep valleys of the Simeto and Alcantara. The -watershed between these rivers, however, near the Lake of Ourrita, -which is sometimes quite dry, attains a considerable height (3790 ft.). The district in which this great volcano rises has evidently been at one time a bay of the sea, still recognisable in the plain of Catania. The mountain is capped with snow throughout the year, except during a few weeks in summer , while in some of the gullies the snow never melts entirely.

The Coasts of Sicily are as a rule steep and rocky, short reaches of flat coast being found in the gulfs of Catania and Terranova, and to the S. of Trapani only. A peculiarity of the Sicilian coast is found in the numerous narrow peninsulas lying in front of it, which have in comparatively recent times only ceased to be islands, and which almost invariably form good harbours. Of this nature are the peninsulas of Syracuse, Augusta, Trapani, and Milazzo. The strikingly picturesque Monte Pellegrino , near Palermo, was at one time an island off the coast , and the sickle-shaped piece of land which forms the harbour is also of very Tecent geological formation. To these capacious natural harbours falls to be added the artificial one of Palermo , the somewhat inadequate successor of the famous ancient harbour, which has been gradually silted up during the geological elevation of theW. coast of Sicily. The same cause has rendered the fine harbour of Trapani almost useless. The S. coast is perfectly destitute of natural harbours, and there- fore unapproachable in stormy weather; but artificial harbours have recently been constructed at great expense at Porto Empe- docle and Licata.

The Rivers of Sicily are very numerous , but none of them are large , and with a few exceptions they all dry up in summer. The district of primary formations in the N. E. of the island does not contain a single perennial water-course , but many broad Fiu- mare, or river-beds , filled after heavy rain with turbulent and destructive torrents , which carry down large masses of the easily detached rock , and refuse to be confined within embankments, often causing widespread devastation. The stony beds of the 'fiumare' are sometimes upwards of l/i M. wide at the mouth, and even in winter are traversed by a mere thread of water only. The numerous streams towards the S.E., which take their rise in the porous, honeycombed limestone hills, are, on the other hand, comparatively copious in the lower part of their course. Water

Geography and Statistics. SICILY. 229

may generally be found by digging below the dry beds of the fiumare even in summer. None of the rivers are navigable. (In the Map at the end of the Handbook the watercourses which dry up in summer are coloured brown, and those which contain water throughout the whole year are blue.)

The splendid Forests with which Sicily was originally covered, and which yielded the admirable ship-building timber mentioned so often in the days of the Greek and Saracenic domination, have been disappearing so rapidly under the axe of the woodman since the 16th cent., and especially since the beginning of this cent., that it is estimated that not more than 4 per cent of the area of the island is now under wood. In the 11th cent, the Monte Lauro was still clothed with forests of pines and fir, and in the 15th cent, the Monte Pellegrino, now conspicuous for its baldness, was clothed with underwood. The only considerable forests are those of jEtna and the mountains on the N. coast, the finest of which are the Caronian Forest and the Bosco di Ficuzza on the Busambra, where the Bourbon sovereigns used to hunt when they resided at Palermo. These woods consist of oaks, chestnuts, elms, ashes, etc., and are carpeted with thick green underwood like the woods of Central Europe , while others nearer the coast and in lower situations con- sist mainly of isolated evergreen oaks [Quercus Ilex, Quereus Suber, etc.). Pine-forests are found in the JEtna region only. The Macchie, a kind of thicket of dense , almost impenetrable , and often thorny bushes, 5-6 ft. high, peculiar to the regions of the Mediterranean, and growing on the denuded .sites of former forests , are less com- mon in Sicily than in neighbouring lands.

Products and Cultivation. The current impression that only a small portion of the area of Sicily is cultivated , is quite er- roneous. In 1857 it was estimated that about 200,000 acres only were unproductive, and 1,600,000 acres under pasture, leaving 5,500,000 acres, or 2/4 of the whole area, under cultivation. Since that date, moreover, a large proportion, probably about one-half, of these unproductive lands have been reclaimed , chiefly through the partition of large estates falling into the hands of government on the failure of heirs. The value of pasture in Sicily may be gathered from the fact that an annual rental of 25,000 fr. has been paid for the apparently barren Mte". Pellegrino near Palermo.

The cultivation of the soil was formerly restricted almost entirely to the production of wheat, but the culture of trees, especially of the Citri (the generic term for oranges, lemons, and citrons), is now found to be still more lucrative, and assumes ever-increasing pro- portions. According to an estimate made between 1870 and 1880, in the Conca d'Oro near Palermo the yield of a hectare (2!/2 acres) of lemon-trees averages 4225 fr., and that of a hectare of orange- trees 2880 fr. per annum. The orange and lemon harvest lasts from November to March, but the fruit does not thoroughly ripen till

230 SICILY. Geography and Statistics.

January. These fruits are cultivated most sedulously on the N. coast from Partinico to Messina, and on the E. coast as far S. as Catania. This branch of agriculture is interesting, not only from an economical but also from a social and moral point of view. The constant attention -which the Citri demand renders it impossible for the agricultural labourers to live in crowded villages, often at a considerable distance from their daily work; so that this branch of agriculture tends to a more equal distribution of the population, and contributes to improve their moral condition. The people are now beginning to descend from their rocky nests (p. 233) and settle among the fields. About one-fifth of the whole island is now de- voted to the cultivation of trees of various kinds, the products of which are exported to the value of 140,000,000 fr. annually, a sum that will appear still more considerable when it is remembered that nine-tenths of the islanders themselves subsist entirely on wheaten bread, fruit, and fish.

Another prevalent error with regard to Sicily is that its fertility has decreased. Rain still falls in sufficient quantity to make the fruits of the field as plentiful now as of yore , in spite of the poor agricultural implements and the want of manuring. Wheat, Barley, and Beans, which form almost the only crops, cover all the avail- able level districts in the island. The concentration of the pop- ulation in a few large villages, the peculiarity of the farm-tenure, the inferiority of the agricultural implements, and the occasional deficiency of hands, are unfavourable to the agricultural prosperity of the country. The fields on the N. and E. coasts, like those in Sardinia and N. Africa, are enclosed by Cactus-hedges (Opuntia Ficus Indica and Opuntia Amyclaea), which frequently attain a considerable height. Their fruit , the cactus-fig , of a sweetish, somewhat insipid taste, is much esteemed by the natives, who in autumn use it to a considerable extent as a substitute for bread. Sumach (Rhus coriaria, the leaves of which are used in tann- ing and as a black dye) and Linseed are among the staple ex- ports. Other products exported, besides the Citri and their es- sential oils, are almonds, olive oil, wine (Marsala, Riposto, Ca- tania, Vittoria , and Siracusa) , nuts , capers , pistachios , manna, liquorice, lentils, and raisins. The chief animal products are silk, hides, wool, anchovies, tunny-fish, and cantharides. Mineral pro- ducts: sulphur, salt, and marble. The island possesses no mines of the precious metals or of coal. Many of the merchants are Ger- mans and Swiss, who have to a great extent taken the place of the English , but the Sicilians themselves are now beginning to turn their attention more zealously to commerce. About two-thirds of the manufactured goods imported into Sicily , as well as Italy, pass through the hands of Swiss and German merchants. The sta- tistics relating to the exports and imports are untrustworthy but it is ascertained that the former are much the more considerable.

Geography and Statistics. SICILY. 231

Climate. The climate of Sicily, apart from trie not unfrequent storms of winter, is a most delightful one, and in equableness is second to that of Madeira alone. This is especially true of the climate of Palermo , which is rapidly coming into favour as a winter residence for invalids. Catania is somewhat colder in winter, and is moreover exposed to sudden changes of temperature on account of the proximity of Mt. ^Etna. Messina and Syracuse are windy places.

In Sicily the year consists of two seasons only , the rainy and the dry. The Rainy Season corresponds with the winter of Cen- tral Europe, and is marked by a fall of temperature. The freezing- point , however, is seldom reached , except occasionally just be- fore dawn , and there are few winter days when one cannot sit comfortably in the open air in a sheltered situation. The rainy season is at the same time that of the most luxuriant vegetation. It is ushered in by thunder-storms in September and October, sets in steadily in November, generally relaxes somewhat in Jan- uary, ends towards the close of March, and is followed by a few violent thunder-storms in April and May. In June, July, and Au- gust, but particularly in July, almost no rain falls, but the heat is tempered by the proximity of the sea. Continuous rain is, how- ever, rare, even in the wet season, and there are seldom more than a dozen days in the year absolutely without sunshine. Cicero's remark on Syracuse , that the sun shines there every day without exception, is almost literally true. The heaviest rainfall occurs in December, next to which are February and March. In Palermo it averages 22 inches per annum, of which 3 in. fall in December and only about 1/6 in. in July; in Syracuse the rain-fall is 16 in., with practically none in June, July, and August. Wheat is sown at the beginning of the rains, and reaped shortly after their close.

The Winds also vary in accordance with these two divisions of the year. From October to March the rainy W.S.W. wind, blowing from the equatorial regions , prevails ; from May to August the prevalent wind blows from the N.E., forming a continuation of the trade-winds from beyond the N. pole ; while in April and September these winds blow alternately. Violent winds, with the exception of the Scirocco , are rare , and the barometrical changes are on the whole slight. The Scirocco, one of the hot periodical storm-winds , which blow from the Sahara in all directions , is among the few drawbacks to the climate of Sicily. It visits Palermo, where it is particularly disagreeable, about twelve times a year, and may occur in any month, though it is most frequent and most violent in April and the short transitionary seasons generally. On the E. coast it is generally charged with moisture, but at Palermo it is hot and dry. The highest temperature ever observed in the shade at Palermo (105° Fahr.) was registered during the scirocco. During its continuance the sky is of a dull, leaden appearance,

232 SICILY. Geography and Statistics.

often -with a tinge of red, occasioned by the columns of dust ■which the storm frequently Tarings with it from a long distance. If rain falls, these fine particles of dust occasion the phenomenon known as 'blood rain', which may he easily collected on the fo- liage of the trees. The effect of the scirocco, often less felt at first by visitors from the N. than by the natives, is to occasion a diffi- culty of breathing and lassitude, which unfit one for work, espe- cially of a mental nature. The scirocco, however, often lasts for a few hours only, and rarely for more than three days.

One of the great advantages of the climate of Sicily arises from the comparatively slight difference in the temperature of the differ- ent seasons. The heat at Palermo in summer is less than at Milan or Florence, while the winters are remarkably mild and equable. The mean temperature in August, the hottest month, is 78° Fahr., and in January, the coldest month, 52°, the difference being 26° only, while the mean annual temperature is about 64°. The lowest temper- ature yet recorded at the observatory at Palermo has been 35°, but it is known that the mercury occasionally descends 3-4° below the freezing-point in the early morning almost every winter. During December, January, February, and March the thermometer remains at almost the same level, and abrupt changes are very rare. The mean daily range of temperature at Palermo is about 12°, in winter less, and on some days not more than 4-5°. Catania has a mean annual temperature of 65°; in summer it is warmer than Palermo, and in winter colder. The mean temperature in August is 81° and that of January 50°, showing a range of 31°. The daily range of temperature is also somewhat greater (121/2-i-i°), and a difference of 41° has been noticed within 24 hours.

In spite of those climatic advantages, the traveller in winter must be on his guard against the very abrupt differences of temper- ature in passing from the sun into the shade , and also against the very rapid fall of temperature frequently perceived in wet weather. For Palermo, see p. 248.

The Population of the island at the end of 1889 was about 3,265,688, or on an average 289 souls per Engl. sq. M. National schools have been established everywhere under the new regime, and the towns now possess commercial (scuola tecnica and istituto tecnico) and grammar schools, but the number of 'analfabeti' (per- sons who can neither read nor write) still amounts to nearly four- fifths of the whole population (9/i0ths in 1864).

Districts. From the Saracen period down to the beginning of the present century the island was divided into three districts : the Val (Welaia, i.e. province) di Demone, the N.E. portion; the Val di Noto, the S.E. part; and the Val di Mazzara, to the S.W. Since 1817 it has been divided into seven prefectures : (1) Palermo, (2) Trapani, (3) Oirgenti, (4) Caltanissetta, (5) Catania, (6) Siracusa, (7) Messina.

Historical Notice. SICILY. 233

Towns. The piincipal towns are Palermo, Messina, Catania, Modica, Trapani, Termini, Acireale, and Caltagirone. Of the 120- 130 towns in the kingdom of Italy which contain above 10,000 in- hab. upwards of one-quarter belong to Sicily. This is explained by the fact, that owing to the constant wars of the middle ages, the predatory incursions of barbarians, and the insecure state of the country, it was unsafe for the peasantry to live in villages, and this class has therefore mainly contributed to swell the population of the towns.

Historical Notice.

1. Political History.

First Period. According to the traditions of ancient Greek mariners, Sicily was once inhabited by Cyclopes, Gigantes, Loto- phagi, Lsestrygones, etc., whom Sicilian historians have endea- voured to classify into iron-workers, stone-workers , farmers, and gardeners. The most ancient inhabitants of Sicily were a prehistoric race , the only certain traces of whom are the flint implements found in various parts of the island and perhaps a few of the stone monuments. They were followed by the Sicani, who were believed by some authorities to be of Iberian, by others of Celtic origin. It is more probable, however, that they belonged to an Italian race. They dwelt at first in the E. part of the island , but within the period embraced in history are found only in the W., between the Tyrrhenian Sea (Hykkara) and the Libyan Sea. The deserted terri- tory of the Sicani to the E. was taken possession of before B.C. 1000 by the Sikeli, a tribe related to the Latins, which, as some authorities believe, had already had a warlike history and made maritime raids upon Egypt. They dwelt in the S.E. corner of the island, in the middle of its E. half, especially in the valley of the Symsethus, and on the N. coast. Their principal towns were: <S. Hybla, Menae (Mineo), Morgantium, N. Hybla (Paterno), Centuripe, Agyrion (Agira) , Assorus (Asaro) , Aluntium (S. Marco) , and Agathyrnum (near C. Orlando). The Phoenicians , coming from the E., founded numerous colonies on the coast, and the Elymi, supposed to be descended from the Trojans, occupied Segesta, Eryx (with the sanctuary of Aphrodite), Entella, and other settlements. The Oreeks make their appearance in Sicily in B.C. 735, when the Ionian Theocles of Chalcis (or Athens) founded Naxos, at the mouth of the Cantara. During the following year Dorians from Corinth under Archias founded Syracuse ; and in 728 Megara Hy- blaea, another Dorian colony , was settled by Lamis of Megara. Zankle (afterwards Messana) was peopled by Ionians , who also founded Leontinoi and Catana (729). A Dorian character was

234 SICILY. Historical Notice.

impressed upon the S. coast by the foundation of Gela (Terranova) by Rhodians and Cretans in 689, of Selinus by Megara in 628, and of Acragas (Girgenti) by Gela in 581. The Dorians also made themselves masters of the S.E. corner of Sicily through the Syra- cusan colonies of Acrae (664), Casmenae (624), and Camarina (599). Himera (648), the only Greek colony on the N. coast, was a joint settlement, in which the Ionian element preponderated. The oc- cupation of the Lipari Islands in B.C. 580 marks the close of the spread of the Hellenic power in Sicily, and the beginning of the Semitic reaction. The Phoenicians, who on the approach of the Greeks had retired to Solus (or Soloeis~), Panormus, and Motye, now placed themselves under the protection of Carthage and thus imposed a check upon the farther progress of Hellenisation. The Sikelians in the E. part of the island, however, became almost entirely subject to the Greeks.

The Greek colonies , as they grew in population , soon began to suffer from internal dissensions between the different classes of citizens. This led to the formation of codes of law, of which that of Charondas of Catana is the most famous, and to the establishment of tyrannies , a form of government which attained its most char- acteristic development in this island. The most notorious of the ancient tyrants was Phalaris of Acragas. About the year 500 we find tyrants ruling over most of the cities, of whom Oelon of Syracuse and Theron of Acragas, united by ties of family and interest, rescued the Greek sway from the perils which threatened it, when, at the time of the 2nd Persian War, the Greeks of the western sea were attacked by the Carthaginians. In 480, however, the Greek cause was victorious at the battle of Himera, the Salamis of Sicily. The short but brilliant golden age of Hellenic Sicily now began, sullied only by the destruction of the Chalcidian towns of the E. coast by Gelon and Hiero. The greater number of the temples and aqueducts at Syracuse, Girgenti, Selinunto, Himera, etc., the ruins of which excite such admiration at the present day, were erected between 480 and 450. But internal municipal struggles, fomented by the demo- cratic parties of the different cities, and the renewed antagonism of the Doric and Ionic-Achaean elements paved the way for a cata- strophe, to which the great Athenian campaign against Syracuse in 413 contributed. Previously to this the Greeks had a formidable enemy to subdue in Ducetius of Netum (Noto), who united the towns of the Sikeli in a confederacy against the Greeks (461-440), but this league was compelled to succumb to the united forces of Syracuse and Acragas. What the Sicilians had failed in effecting was now attempted with more success by the great power of Africa. The Carthaginians now began their most formidable attacks. Selinus and Himera were destroyed by them in 409, Acragas taken in 406, Gela and Camarina conquered and rendered tributary to Carthage in 405, and Messana razed to the ground in 396. These events were

Historical Notice. SICILY. 235

instrumental in causing the rise of Dionysius I. in Syracuse (406), who extended and fortified the town, and after a war of varied success finally drove back the Carthaginians in 382 to the Halycus (Platani). Down to his death in 367 Dionysius was master of the destinies of Syracuse, and with it of Sicily ; the greater part of Magna Graecia was also subject to his sway, and he even intervened several times with effect in the affairs of Greece itself. Syracuse never again attained to such a pinnacle of power. On his death dissensions began anew. Dionysius II. was inferior to his father, and Dion able as a philosopher only. Timoleon, however, succeeded in 343-336 in restoring some degree of order, defeated the Carthaginians in 340 on the Crimissus (Belice), and again restricted their territory to the W. of the Halycus. But even his brilliant example availed little to arrest the increasing degeneracy of the people. In 317-289 Agathocles usurped the sovereignty of Syracuse, and in 310 the Carthaginians besieged the city, although unsuccessfully. The brilliant African campaign of Agathocles was without enduring re- sult. Pyrrhus too, who had wrested the whole island as far as Lily- bsum from the Carthaginians, soon quitted it again for Italy (278- 276), dissatisfied with the prevailing anarchy and disunion. In 274 Hiero II. usurped the tyranny of Syracuse. His siege of Mes- sana, of which Campanian mercenaries, or Mamertines, had treach- erously taken possession , compelled the latter to sue for Roman aid. Thus it was that the Romans obtained a footing in the island, and the struggle between them and the Carthaginians , who had supported Hiero, now began. The chequered contest for the sover- eignty of Sicily lasted from 264 to 241. Hiero, who in 263 had become an ally of Rome, ruled over a small independent kingdom on the E. coast, even after the final expulsion of the Carthaginians. After the death of Hiero II. his successor Hieronymus espoused the cause of Hannibal, in consequence of which Syracuse was besieged by Marcellus in 214-212, taken, and sacked. In 210, after the conquest of Agiigentum , the island became the first Roman pro- vince, and was divided into two districts or qusesturse, Lilybaetana (with the capital Lilybaeum, now Marsala) and Syracusana.

Second Period. At first the Romans endeavoured to improve the agriculture of the island, which had suffered seriously during the protracted wars, with a view to render Sicily a more profitable province. The system of cultivation borrowed from the Carthagi- nians was indeed successfully employed in rendering Sicily the granary of Italy, but at the same time it proved the occasion of the Servile Wars (139-131 and 104-101), which devastated the island to a greater extent than the Punic wars. Under the Roman governors the ancient prosperity of Sicily steadily declined. The notorious Verres in particular impoverished it greatly during his term of office in 73-71. The civil war between Octavianus and Sextus Pompeius, who had made himself master of Sicily (43-36)

236 SICILY. Historical Notice.

but was defeated by Agrippa in the naval battle of Nauloclius (on the N. coast, near Mylae), also accelerated its ruin, so that Augustus was obliged in a great measure to repeople the island and re-erect the towns. Little is known of its internal affairs after this date. With regard to the dissemination of Christianity in Sicily numer- ous traditions are current, and are preserved in the different mar- tyrologies. It is recorded (Acts xxviii. 12) that St. Paul landed at Syracuse on his journey to Rome and spent three days there, and the evidence of monuments goes to confirm the local legends of missionaries from the E. , and to refute the later pretensions of Rome to the establishment of Christianity in Sicily. Syracuse would thus seem to have taken an important part in the spread of the Christian religion. After the end of the 3rd cent, the new religion made rapid progress, and in the reign of Constantine it had become practically the universal faith, though heathens still existed in Sicily down to the 6th century.

After another servile war had devastated the country (A.D. 259), Syracuse began, in 278, to suffer from the incursions of bar- barian hordes, when it was plundered by a mere handful of wan- dering Franks. In B.C. 27 Sicily had become the first of the ten senatorial provinces , according to Augustus's distribution of the empire, and then a province of the diocese of Italy, according to the arrangement of Diocletian ; but in 395 it was separated from the W. and attached to the E. empire, whereby it escaped the fate of neither. In 440 Geiserich besieged Palermo and conquered Lily- bfeum (Marsala). Odoacer made himself master of Sicily, and the island afterwards became subject to the Ostrogoths. In 535 Belisarius brought it under the sway of the Eastern emperors, who retained it till its conquest by the Arabs. — The Romish church had great possessions in Sicily, and Pope Gregory I. was a zealous promoter of the cultivation of the island. Constans II. even transferred the seat of the E. empire to Syracuse in 663, hut he was murdered there in 668, and the city was plundered hy the Arabs the following year.

Third Period. In 827 the Saracens, under Ased-ibn-Fordt, on the invitation of the governor Euphemius, landed near Mazzara. Four years later Palermo fell into their hands , and that city now became the capital , and swayed the destinies of the island. The Saracens, conquering one city after another, overran the whole is- land , and in 878 Syracuse was taken by Ibrahim - ibn - Ahmed. Although the Christians could now maintain themselves in the N.E. angle of the island only, and even there were deprived of Taormina in 902, and finally of Rametta in 965, yet the establish- ment of a lasting peace was rendered impossible hy the antagonism between their Arabian and Berber conquerors, which continually led to sanguinary conflicts. To these evils were added the changes of dynasty. At first the Aghlabites of Kairvan ruled. Then Sicily

Historical Notice. SICILY. 237

became an independent emirate tinder the Fatimite Sovereigns of Egypt. The latter half of the 10th cent, was the most prosperous period of Sicily under the Mohammedan sway. But the sanguinary struggles of the Sunnites and Shiites in Africa, where the Zirites had usurped the supremacy, were soon transplanted hither, and the insurrection of several cities accelerated the downfall of the Arabian dynasty. In spite of these unfavourable circumstances, the prosperity of the island had during this period considerably increased, and agriculture, industry, and commerce had progressed so greatly that the Norman conquerors found the island a most valuable acquisition.

About the middle of the 11th cent., after an ineffectual at- tempt to conquer the island had been made by George Maniaces, a Greek , in 1038-41, Robert and Roger de Hauteville, sons of Tancred of Hauteville in Normandy, went to Italy on the invi- tation of their elder brothers , who had declared themselves Counts of Apulia. Robert, subsequently surnamed Ouiscard, i.e. 'the Shrewd', compelled the pope to invest him with the Duchy of Apulia, and then, after Ibn-Thimna of Syracuse had already in- voked his aid, proceeded from Mileto with his brother Roger to con- quer Sicily in 1061. The first expedition did not immediately produce the desired result. But ten years later they returned, and by 1090 the entire island was subdued. The line of Robert Guiscard having become extinct in 1 127 , the second son of Roger, Count Roger II. , united the whole of the Norman conquests under his sceptre, and caused himself to be crowned as king at Palermo in 1130. During his reign Sicily prospered, and its fleets conquered the Arabs and the Greeks, from whom they wrested a portion of ancient Greece (Romania). He was succeeded by his second son William (1154-66), surnamed by the monkish and feudal chroni- clers Hhe Bad', who was followed by his son William II. , 'the Good' (d. 1189). After the death of the latter a contest as to the succession arose. William II. had given his aunt Constance, daughter of Roger, to Henry VI., son of Frederick Barbarossa, in marriage, and that monarch now laid claim to the crown. The Si- cilians , however , declared themselves in favour of Tancred , of Lecce, a natural son of Roger. On his death shortly afterwards he was succeeded by his son William III., whom Henry VI. had less diffi- culty in subduing (1194). Henry did not long enjoy his conquest, and died at Messina in 1197. He was succeeded by the Emperor Frederick II., as Frederick I. of Sicily, whose exertions in behalf of Sicily have been so highly extolled by posterity. In 1250-54 his second son Conrad occupied the throne ; then Manfred until the battle of Benevento in 1266; and in 1268 Charles of Anjou caused the last scion of the Germanic imperial house to be exe- cuted (see p. 39).

Foukth Pbkiod. Charles of Anjou and Provence maintained

238 SICILY. Historical Notice.

his supremacy in Sicily, with which he had been invested by Pope Clement IV., for but a brief period. The massacre of the Sicilian Vespers (1282) was an expiation of the death of Conradin. Messina defended itself heroically against the attacks of Charles ; and Peter of Aragon, son-in-law of Manfred, became master of the island. But its decline dates from this period. It was repeatedly devastated by the interminable wars with the Anjous of Naples, while the no- bility, such as the Chiaramonte and the Ventimiglia, attained to such power as to render systematic administration on the part of the government impossible. In 1410, when Sicily became an ap- panage of the kingdoms of Naples and Spain , it still retained its freedom of internal administration. But this very privilege proved prejudicial to it, whilst its external defence against the barbarians was neglected. During the second half of the 18th cent, many medieval institutions were swept away by the advance of ci- vilisation, and in 1812 Sicily was finally rescued from the con- dition of a mediaeval feudal state. In that year, the Sicilian Es- tates, under the influence of the English general Lord William H. C. Bentinck, whose troops were then protecting the island against Napoleon, passed a constitution on the English model. But three years later this was again abn gated. The misrule of the Bourbons, and the popular antipathy to the union with Naples, led to a san- guinary revolt on July 14th, 1820, which, however, was repressed by the Neapolitan generals, Florestan Pepe and Coletta. The oholera epidemic, also, of 1837, which the people attributed to the fault of the government, was followed by renewed disturbances. At the re- volution of Jan. 12th, 1848, Sicily appointed a government of its own under the noble Buggiero Settimo , and maintained its inde- pendence against Naples for a year and a half. Among the leaders of the people at this time were the Marchese Torrearsa, Prince Butera, Stabile, La Farina, and the brothers Amari. In September 1848, however, Messina was laid partly in ruins by the fleet of Fer- dinand II. ('Re Bomba') , in the following April Catania was cap- tured, and in May Palermo. During these struggles the inspiriting idea of a comprehensire national unity had impressed itself on the Sicilians , and when in 1860 Northern Italy became united under the house of Savoy , revolts once more broke out in the two chief towns of the island. Garibaldi, with 1000 volunteers ('i mille'), landed in Sicily at Marsala on May 11th 1860, and after a victorious battle at Calatafimi, stormed Palermo on May 27th. In a few weeks more he was master of the entire island ; and by the plebiscite of October 21st, 1860, Sicily joined the new kingdom of Italy.

The following is a chronological sketch of the history of this period of six centuries : —

a. 1282-1285. Peter of Aragon, King of Sicily. 1285-1296. James the Just. 1296-1337. Frederick II.

Historical Notice. SICILY. 239

1337-1342. Peter II., co-regent from 1321. 1342-1355. Louis.

1355-1377. Frederick III. the Simple, brother of Louis. 1377-1402. Mary, daughter of Frederick III., married in

1485 to Martin of Aragon. 1402-1409. Martin I. sole monarch of Sicily , married to

Bianca of Castille. 1409-1410. Martin II., father of Martin I. 1410-1412. Interregnum. 6. 1412-1416. Ferdinand the Just, King of Aragon and

Castille. 1416-1458. Alphonso the Generous , King of Aragon, and

after 1442 King of Naples. 1458-1479. John of Aragon and Navarre. 1479-1515. Ferdinand II. the Catholic, after 1505 also

King of Naples. 1515-1554. Emp. Charles V. ; 1517, Squarcialupo's re- hellion at Palermo. 1554-1598. Philip II. 1598-1621. Philip III. 1621-1665. Philip IV. ; 1647, Revolution at Palermo,

Giuseppe Alessi. 1665-1700. Charles II. ; 1672-1678, Messina revolts in

favour of Louis XIV. of France.

c. 1700-1713. Philip V. of Bourbon, after 1713 King of Spain.

d. 1713-1720. Victor Amadeus of Savoy.

e. 1720-1734. Emp. Charles VI. of Germany.

f. 1734-1759, Charles III. of Bourbon.

1759-1825. Ferdinand IV., King of Naples and Sicily, after

1815 Ferdinand I., King of the Two Sicilies. 1825-1830. Francis I. 1830-1859. Ferdinand II. 1848-1849. Sicily independent. 1859-1860. Francis II.

2. History of Civilisation and Art.

Almost every one of the numerous nations which in the course of centuries have inhabited or governed Sicily has left behind it some trace of its individual capacity for art, modified, however, to some extent by the characteristics peculiar to the island, and there- fore in most cases bearing a Sicilian stamp. Cicero has observed that the Sicilian is never so miserable as to be unable to utter a bon-mot, and a similar remark might be made at the present day. The Sicilians of all ages have displayed marked , though not bril- liant abilities. Their wit, flow of conversation, and power of re- partee were universally known to the ancients. It was not, there- fore, the result of mere chance that Greek comedy attained its

240 SICILY. History of Art.

earliest development here , and that bucolic poetry originated in Sicily, where to this day the natives delight in rural life. Sicily has in all ages produced admirable speakers , although rather sophists and phraseologists than great orators. In the study of the history of their island the natives have ever manifested the utmost zeal, and for the concrete sciences as far as they are connected with practical life, such as mechanics and medicine, they possess con- siderable aptitude. In the manufacture of objects of an artistic character (in opposition to pure works of art) , as in architecture, the art of engraving, the composition of mosaics, etc., the Sicilians have from a very early period distinguished themselves. It must not be forgotten, however, that the Saracenic supremacy introduced a new and important element into the national character, which shows itself in a vein of seriousness , foreign to the character of neighbouring races, such as the Neapolitans. The national songs, for example , are strongly tinctured with Oriental melancholy.

The monuments of Sikelian culture of the pre-Hellenic period still preserved in Sicily, although far more scanty than the Greek, merit a more minute examination than has hitherto fallen to their share. Prehistoric antiquities have recently been investigated in several different spots , and traces of the flint period have been found in caverns and elsewhere. The most important antiquities of a somewhat later date are : the Subterranean Cities with which the S.E. angle of the island is full, the so-called Ddieri of Val d'Ispica, Palazzolo, Pantelica, etc., and the Polygonal Structures at Cefalil and on Alt. Eryx.

The Metopes of Selinus, mementoes of the most ancient style, form the transition to the Hellenic sculpture. Some of the most magnificent Greek temples still extant have been erected in Sicily : Temple of Apollo at Selinus 371 ft. long, 177ft. broad; Temple of Zeus at Girgenti 356 ft. long, 174 ft. broad (Parthenon at Athens 229 ft. by 101 ft. ; Temple of Zeus at Olympia 233 ft. by 97 ft. ; Temple of Apollo at Phigalia 195 ft. by 75 ft. ; Temple of Diana at Ephesus 388 ft. by 187 ft.). The Ruined Temples at Girgenti, Se- gesta, Selinunto, and Syracuse are nowhere surpassed. The Theatres of Syracuse, Taormina, Segesta, Tyndaris, Palazzolo, and Catania have indeed been modified by additions during the Eoman period, but the Greek origin of their foundations and arrangements may easily be recognised. The fortifications of the Epipolae of Syracuse are among the best existing specimens of Greek structures of the kind. In the province of Sculpture comparatively few Greek works have come down to us. Among these may be mentioned the more recent metop* of Selinus in the museum at Palermo , and a few relics preserved at Syracuse. Of Bronzes, in the casting of which Perilaos of Agrigentum is said to have excelled, scarcely a single specimen has survived. On the other hand a copious collection of admirable ancient Coins has come down to us. Beautiful

History of Art. SICILY. 241

Vases are likewise found in almost every part of the island. The climax of the prosperity of the Sicilian Greeks was contempo- raneous with that of their mother-country , and not in point of architecture alone. About the year 550, Stesichorus of Himera per- fected the Greek chorus by the addition of the epode to the strophe and antistrophe. Aeschylus resided long in Sicily , where he died (456), and was interred at Gela. Pindar and Sappho also enjoyed the hospitality of Sicily, and sang the praises of the victories of her sons at Olympia. Simonides visited Sicily, and composed appropriate lines for the gift dedicated to the gods by Gelon after the battle of Himera in 480. Phormis, an officer of Gelon at Syra- cuse, who invented movable scenes, Epicharmus in 480, Sophron in 460, and Xenarchus , the son of the last , distinguished them- selves in the composition of comedies. Nothing is more charac- ristic of the Sicilian enthusiasm for art than the story that the Syracusans once set at liberty several Athenian prisoners, because they knew how to recite the verses of Euripides with pathos. Even during the period of decline the national poetical bias was still pre-eminent , and gave birth to a new description of poetry, the idyls, in which their inventor Theocritus of Syracuse was unsur- passed , and which even in modern times have found numerous admirers.

The Sicilians have always manifested considerable capacity for philosophical research. Pythagoras found followers here. Xeno- phanes of Colophon, the founder of the Eleatic school , died in Syracuse at an advanced age. A century later, Plato thrice visited Syracuse. But the most illustrious Sicilian thinker was Empedocles of Acragas, distinguished as a natural philosopher, and also as a practical statesman, physician, architect, and orator. The names of a number of eminent physicians are recorded : Pausanias, Aaron (5th cent. B.C.), Menecrates (4th cent. B.C.), and Celsus (but the last, born at Centuripae, is not to be confounded with his famous namesake who lived in the reign of Augustus). Distinguished histo- rians were : Antiochus, Philistus of Syracuse , Timaeus of Taor- mina, Dicaearehus of Messana, and the learned Diodorus (Siculus) of Agyrium, who wrote his celebrated Bibliotheca Historica in the reign of Augustus. The most brilliant of the numerous orators were Corax and Tisias, the teacher of Isocrates, Gorgias, and Lysias. Oorgias, the celebrated sophist and orator, was a native of Leon- tinoi, and Lysias was the son of a Syracusan. Among the mathe- maticians and mechanicians Archimedes was the most distinguished. Hicetas of Syracuse was one of the first who taught that the earth moved and the sun remained stationary.

The Roman-Byzantine Supremacy gave the death-blow to the intellectual progress of the Sicilians. The soldier who slew Archi- medes may be regarded as symbolical of this epoch. In accordance with the Roman custom, however, numerous magnificent amphi-

Baedekek. Italy III. 11th Edition. 16

242 SICILY. History of Art.

theatres, theatres, and aqueducts were constructed during this period. The rapacity of Verres and other governors despoiled the island of countless treasures of art. The Christians used many of the ancient temples and tombs for sacred purposes. A single Byzantine church of small dimensions near Malvagna alone remains from this period. A proof of the abject condition to which Sicily had sunk is found in the circumstance that down to a late period of the Mus- lim supremacy not a single author of eminence arose, although crowds of monks and priests resided in the island. Theophanes Cerameus and Petrus Siculus , the historian of the Manichseans, alone deserve mention. The wandering San Simeon of Syracuse died at Treves.

The Arabs were the first to infuse new life into the island. They not only enriched the architectural art with new forms of construction, as mentioned below, but they also inaugurated a new era in the writing of history and geography, and under King Roger II. the first mediaeval geographer Edrisi completed his great work (Nushat-ul-Mushtak). Among the Mohammedan Kasides (poets) Ibn-Hamdis was the most distinguished. Art developed itself to a still greater extent under the Norman rule, and the princes and great men of that race have perpetuated their names by the erection of numerous cathedrals. The importance they at- tached to learning is proved by the fact that they were in the habit of summoning the most learned men of the East (e. g. Petrus Blesensis) to instruct their young princes. Whilst the Arabs de- serve commendation for the introduction of the most valuable com- mercial products (grain, cotton, sumach, etc.) which the island possesses, the Norman princes established the manufacture of silk; and a school for the arts of weaving and the composition of mosaic was maintained in the royal palace. The brilliant reign of Fred- erick II., his legislative merits, and his zealous promotion of every art and science are well known. At his court at Palermo the Italian language developed itself so as to become a written language, and his counsellors, his sons , and even he himself made the first attempts at Italian poetry. Of Frederick II., Manfred, Enzius, Ciullo of Alcamo, Peter de Vineis, Quido delle Colonne, Jacopo da Lentini, etc., poems are still preserved to us. But this golden age was of brief duration. Amid the vicissitudes of subsequent cen- turies all intellectual superiority became extinct. Even the chroniclers manifest distinct traces of this degeneracy. "Whilst well-written and interesting chronicles of Sicily were composed in the 13th century {Hugo Falcandus , Bartholomew of Neocastro. etc.), those of a later period are often unreadable. The revival of classical studies, however, at length roused literature from its inert condition. At the close of the 15th cent. Messina distinguished itself by its promotion of Greek studies, and Constantine Lascaris taught there. The following century produced the learned and

History of Art. SICILY. 243

indefatigable Thomas Fazello of Sciacca (d. 1570), the originator of Sicilian history and topography. His work was completed by the historian Maurolycus of Messina.

The enlightened absolutism of the Bourbons during the last century tended to promote the progress of science in Sicily, although the attention of scholars was principally directed to ar- chaeological research relating to the history of the island. The wealthier of the nobility and the clergy eagerly took part in the revival. The art of poetry also revived, and found its most talented representative in Giovanni Meli of Palermo (d. 1815). His ana- creontic songs in the national dialect were universally popular even before they appeared in a printed form.

In the history of music Sicily is represented by Bellini (b. at Catania 1802, d. at Paris 1835).

"With regard to ancient art in Sicily , and particularly the sculptures of Selinunto, see p. xxix et seq. We may now add a few remarks upon the principal mediaeval and modern monuments of art.

Architecture. The mediaeval architecture of Sicily, and par- ticularly that of Palermo, bears the impress of the political desti- nies of the country in a very striking degree, showing the change from the Byzantine to the Arabian domination, and from the latter to the supremacy of the Normans. The style is accordingly of a very mixed character, which strict connoisseurs will not fail to censure, but it possesses great attractions for the less scientific lover of art. The leading element is the Arabian. After the overthrow of the Arabian supremacy the more refined culture of that race left its mark on the island, and the Norman princes found it desirable to avail themselves of its services in the administration of the country and particularly in the province of art. The Arabian culture, however , was in its turn considerably swayed by Byzantine in- fluences, and it is therefore not surprising that these again should be reflected in the Sicilian architecture of the 12th century. The ground-plan of many of the churches of Palermo is traceable to Byzantine originals , viz. a square space enclosed by four pillars and covered with a dome. It is uncertain whether this form was introduced direct from Byzantium after the final triumph of Chris- tian culture, or whether the Arabs had already employed it in the construction of their numerous little oratories (of which Ibn Hau- kal, an Arabian traveller of the 10th cent., says that there were 200 at Palermo alone) , and handed it down to their Norman suc- cessors. The latter alternative , however , is the more probable. While the plan of many churches, such as Martorana, S. Cataldo, and 8. Antonio at Palermo is Byzantine, and that of others, like Monreale, S. Spirito and several abbey-churches at Palermo, and the cathedral at Cefaiii, is Romanesque, the universally prevalent pointed arch is of Arabian origin, and quite distinct from the

16*

244 SICILY. History of Art.

Gothic form. The Arabs brought it from Egypt and used it in all their buildings, and they also derived thence the custom of adorn- ing their flat ceilings with pendentives, resembling stalactites, and their friezes with inscriptions. While the ecclesiastical architecture of Sicily was thus unable to resist the Arabian influence , that of her palaces still possesses a distinctly Arabian character, cor- responding with the Oriental complexion of the Norman court. Of the numerous palaces which are said to have encircled Palermo in the 12th cent., we now possess imperfect examples only in the Zisa and the Cuba (and in the relics of the chateaux of Mimner- mum at Altarello di Baida and Favara at Mare Dolce), so that it requires a considerable effort of imagination picture their to vaunted magnificence. Sicily possesses no Gothic churches of any note (S. Francesco and S. Agostino at Palermo, and the cathedral at Mes- sina'), but it is curious to observe how tenaciously her architects clung to Gothic and other mediaeval forms down to a late period in the Renaissance epoch. Of the later mediaeval secular architecture we find many pleasing examples, especially at Palermo. In the 17th cent, numerous edifices in the 'baroque' style were erected on a very extensive scale , but characterised by an only too florid richness of decorative detail.

Sculptubjb. In the plastic art, in so far as it rises above a merely decorative purpose, mediaeval Sicily attained little pro- ficiency. The principal works in bronze (the gates at Monreale) are not the work of native masters. Sculpturing in marble for de- corative purposes, on the other hand, was extensively and success- fully practised here at an early period. The capitals and several shafts of columns in the monastery-court of Monreale are among the finest works of the kind in Italy. The early Sicilian Wood Carving, sometimes adorned with arabesques, which is still fre- quently met with (as at the Martorana), is of remarkably fine exe- cution. Another proof of the great skill of the Sicilian artificers is afforded by the Porphyry Sarcophagi of the Norman princes and German emperors in the cathedral at Palermo, and by the numerous Marble Incrustations and Marble Mosaics of the 12th century. The mural covering of the Cappella Palatina and the Martorana, and the mosaic decorations of the monastery court of Monreale will bear favourable comparison with the finest works of the Roman sculptors in marble and the members of the Cosmas school. Mosaic painting was also highly developed in the 12th century. The mosaics in the cathedral at Cefalu and in the Cappella Palatina, and those in the Martorana and at Monreale , which have been preserved from decay by repeated restorations, are not all of uniform value, but even those which show less vigour of conception display the bold- ness of touch and finish of execution peculiar to able and ex- perienced masters. As such artificers cannot possibly have sprung up under Arabian rule , we must assume that the earlier of the

History of Art. SICILY. 245

works to which we have referred were executed by Byzantine artists invited to Sicily from foreign countries , and that these masters then transmitted their art to native successors. At a later period, after the extinction of the Norman princes, Sicilian art fell far be- hind that of the mainland. Even during the Renaissance period Sicily made no independent exertion, her cultivation of art being but a slow and hesitating adoption of that of Rome and Naples. It must, however, be borne in mind, that the existing sculptures of Sicily are as yet by no means fully known. The most famous name connected with Renaissance sculpture at Palermo is that of Qagini. For three generations the Gagini's were sculptors in marble. Antonio Oagini, born in 1480 , was the son of a Lombard sculptor, and to him and his sons are referred all the finest works in marble of the 16th cent, at Palermo. At a later period Oiacomo Serpotta (1655-1732), a successor of Bernini, and a forerunner of the rococo school, executed at Palermo numerous works in stucco, of distinct, though perhaps somewhat affected, grace.

Painting. The history of this art in Sicily, although it has been the object of zealous local research, has not yet been placed on a satisfactory critical basis. In the 15th cent., however, the island produced several painters of considerable eminence , the most frequently named of whom is Antonio Crescenzio , although only the St. Cecilia in the cathedral at Palermo (p. 253) can be assigned to him with certainty. His claim to be the artist of the striking 'Triumph of Death' in the Palazzo Sclafani (p. 252) rests on very uncertain grounds ; but he perhaps may be credited with the mural designs in a lateral chapel of S. Slaria di Gesu (p. 273) which forcibly recall the Florentine compositions of the 15th century. His pupil Tommaso di Vigilia and Pietro Euzulone are painters of mediocre rank. The most distinguished Sicilian painter of the 15th cent, was Antonello da Messina, but the only authentic works by him now'in Sicily are five or six in his native town (p. 318). This master must not be confounded with his less distinguished con- temporary Antonello da Saliba, several pictures by whom are still preserved at Palermo. Of the artists of Palermo in the 16th cent, the most famous was Vincenzo di Paoia, surnamed Aine- molo, who is also known as Vincenzo il Romano, and is said .to have been a pupil of Polidoro Caldara. Most of the churches of Palermo boast of works by this master, who would there- fore seem to have been very prolific; but as the works attrib- uted to him are of very unequal merit, many of them are probably by a different hand, while others are partly by his pupils. His labours extended down to the year 1542. His finest works are the Ascension and the Descent from the Cross in the Museum, and a rich composition in a side-chapel to the left in S.Domenico. To the 17th cent, belongs Pietro Novelli (1603-47), surnamed 'Mon- realese', a master of considerable originality, and a follower of the

246 Route 23. PALERMO.

Neapolitan school, to which he owes his -rigorous colouring and his strongly individualised heads. Besides his works at Palermo, there is an interesting work by this master in the staircase at Monreale (St. Benedict and his successors). Several of his monkish figures are among the finest works produced by the Italian naturalists. Palermo followed the degraded styles of the 18th cent., the proofs of which are too numerous to require enumeration.

23. Palermo.

Arrival. By Sea. Travellers are conveyed to the Dogana (PI. H, 7; 1 fr. for each pers. with luggage, 60 c. without), where luggage is slightly examined. Thence to the town about HI.; cab with luggage IV2 fr., in- cluding a gratuity. Omnibuses from several of the hotels await the arrival of the steamboats. — The main Railwai Station is in the Via Lincoln, outside the Porta S. Antonino (PI. A, B, 4) ; that of the W. Railway (R. 25j in the Via Lolli (PI. G, 1); and that of the local railway to Corleone (p. 289) in S. Erasmo, at the S.E. end of the Marina (PI. A, 5, 6). Cabs, see p. 247.

Hotels. (If a stay of any length is made, charges had better be asked beforehand.) * Hotel des Palmes (PI. b; F, 4), in the Via Stabile, with beautiful garden, R. 3-7, L. 1, A. 1, B. I1/2, dej. 3V2, D. 5, pens. 10-15, omn. l'/2 fr. ; 'Trinacria (PI. a; C, 6), with a fine view of the Marina, entered from the Via Butera, R. from 3, L. »/4, A. 3/4, B. I1/2, dej. 3-31, 2, D. 5, incl. wine 6, pens. 10-15, omn. li/2 fr.; "Grand Hotel de la Paix, Via della Liberta, opposite the Giardino Inglese (p. 260), opened in 1801, well fitted up, pens, from 10 fr.; "Hotel de France (PI. c; C, 5), in a healthy situation, frequented by natives and foreigners, R. 3-5, L. 8/4, A. 3/4, B. H/2, dej. 3, D. 4, pens. 10-13, omn. llfa fr. — Second-class: Albergo Centrale (PI. e ; D, 3), with trattoria, Corso Vitt. Emanuele 355, in the centre of the town, close to the Quattro Canti, R. from 2'/2, dej. l]/2-2, D. 372-4, pension incl. wine 10 fr., well spoken of; Hotel Oliva (PL f ; F, 3), Piazza Oliva 22, R. 2, L. 1/2, A. 1/2, B. 1, dej. 21/2, D. 31/2 (both incl. wine), pens. (L. extra) 8 fr. ; Italia (PI. d ; C, 5), Piazza Marina 60, near the Giardino Garibaldi, R. 2-2'/2, pens. 6-7 fr., cuisine mediocre; Rebecchino (PI. h; O, 2), Via Vitt. Emanuele, opposite the cathedral, R., L., & A. 2]/2-5, pens, from 6, omn. 1 fr. ; Albergo al Pizzdto (PI. g; D, 4), Via Bandiera 30, near the Piazza S. Domenico ; Albergo Aragona, Via Alloro 90; etc.

Pensions (all well spoken of). Pens. Anglaise (Mrs. Artand), Via Principe Scordia (PI. E, F, G, 4), Casa Piazza, 3rd floor, pens, from 7 fr. ; Pens. JenischeJc, Via Bandiera 69, R., L., & A. 2-3, B. 1/2, dej. l'/2, D. 2'/2 (both incl. wine), pens. 6-7, without dej. 5-6 fr. ; Pens. Suisse, Via Vitt. Emanuele 1S7, R., L., & A. 2>/2, B. %, dej. 1 fr. 90 c, D. 3 (both incl. wine), pens. 6, for a long stay, 5 fr.; Pens. Tersenghi, Via Lincoln 55, R. 1-2, pens. 5 fr.

Furnished Apartments , generally indicated by placards , are now easily obtained in Palermo , but are usually somewhat deficient in the comforts desirable for a winter residence and not all at suited for solitary invalids. There is a scarcity of single rooms to let. In the town the Piazza Marina (PI. C, 5) , the Piazza Bologni (PI. c, 3) , and the Piazza Vittorio (PI. C, 2) may be recommended, the houses outside the town less so. Invalids should avoid rooms in the vicinity of the Cala. The price of a furnished room in the town is 30-70 fr. , that of a small furnished utage outside the town about 100 fr. a month. Some of the pri- vate villas in the Olivuzza (PI. F, G, 1) and the Giardino Inglese (PI. H I, 4) are also let in whole or in part, but in general at high rents and' not to pulmonary patients. The smallest details should be inserted in the con- tract, and the apartments should be carefully inspected before taking posses-

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Tramways. PALERMO. 23. Route. 247

sion. Marchese Milo, Corso Calatafimi 55 , Piazza dell' Indipendenza, is a trustworthy house-agent. The hirer of furnished lodgings will find some difficulty in procuring suitable provisions , and also some inconvenience in the fact that the Sicilian servants can rarely speak Italian.

Trattorie (p. xx). "Stella Americana, Via Vitt. Emanuele 178, good cuisine; "Cafi Orelo, at the corner of the Piazza Marina and the Via Vitt. Emanuele; "Cafi-Restaurant Lincoln, opposite; "Progresso, Via Vitt. Ema- nuele 311; Rebecchino, seep. 246. — Cafes (almost empty in the morning), in the above trattorie; also: Cafi Trinacria, Quattro Canti di Campagna (PI. F, 3, 4); Cafe of the Teatro Bellini, Piazza della Martorana (good ices at both); Caffe del Foro Ttalico, on the Marina, with sea-view (open May to Oct. only). — Confectioners ('Pasticceria') : "Gull, Via Vitt. Emanuele 101-107; 'CaMscIi, Via Vitt. Emanuele 180 and Via Macqueda 292 (good preserved fruit at both). — Beer at CafliscWs, see above ; Cafe" Trinacria, see above; Birreria Barander, in the court of the Albergo Centrale (see p. 246).

The Casino Tfvovo, or new club, in the Palazzo Oeraci in the Via Vitt. Emanuele (p. 25G), contains handsome apartments, and is worth visiting ; strangers may easily obtain an introduction for a fortnight ; ticket for a longer period 10 fr. per month.

Carriages. Tariff for 1-4 persons : — One-h. Two-h.

Drive within the town-walls, including the Piazza S. Francesco di Paola, Piazza Ruggero Settimo, Corso

Scina and Via Borgo 0. 60 0. 80

Drive within the suburbs, including the harbour and the station if not more than •/« hr 1- — 1. 50

Small articles free. One box 20, two boxes 30 c.

First hour 1. 80 2. 20

Each additional hour 1. 60 2. —

After midnight these charges are raised by one-half. Driving in the town is prohibited on Good Friday. Longer drives according to bargain.

Tramways. Four lines start from the Piazza Marina (PI. C, 5), the two first of which diverge from each other at the Porta S. Giorgio (PI. E, 5): 1. To Acqnasanta, at the foot of Monte Pellegrino (PI. H, 5, 6, 7; I, 7), 20 c, to the Piazza Ucciardone (PI. G, H, 5), 10 c. — 2. To Noce, at the end of the Corso Olivuzza (PI. E, 5-2 ; F, 1) 20 c, to Porta Carini (PI. E, 2, 3), 15 c. — 3. To Romagnolo , on the high-road to Bagheria (p. 275) 20 c. — 4. Through the Via Lincoln and Corso Tuckery to the Piazza deW Indipendenza (PI. C, 5, 6; B, 6-1; C, 1), where this line unites with the two following (15 c). — A fifth line leads from the Piazza Bologni (PI. C, 3) through the Via Vitt. Emanuele, and on to the S.W. to La Rocca, at the foot of the hill of Monreale (comp. PI. D, 3-1), 20 c, to the Cappuccini (p. 270) 15 c. — A sixth line runs from the Piazza deW Indipendenza (PI. C, 1) to the Via Sampolo, to the entrance of the Favorita (PI. H, I, 5) 20 c, to the Piazza Ucciardone (PI. G, H, 5) 15 c.

Omnibuses. 1. Along the Via Vitt. Emanuele (PI. C, D, 2-6), 10 c. — 2. From the Main Railway Station through the Via Macqueda to the Giar- dino Inglese (PI. A, 4; B-I, 3, 4) and on to 5. Lorenzo (p. 269). — 3. From the Piazza Marina (PI. C, 5) to the West Station, in the Via Lolli (PI. G, 1), 10 c. — 4. From the Porta Garibaldi (PI. B, 4) to Castellammarc (PI. E, 5) and the Molo (PI. G, 5). — 5. From the Piazza Bologni (PI. C, 3) via, the Porta S. Giorgio (PI. E, 5) to Falde at the foot of Monte Pellegrino (p. 268), 20 c. — 6. From the Piazza Indipendenza (PI. C, 1), instead of the tramway suspended at present, by the Strada Pisani (C, 1) to Porrazzi, on the high-road to Parco, about l1/* M. from the town (comp. p. 273); 10 c

Baths. Via Quattro Aprile 7, near the Piazza Marina, clean; cold bath 1 fr., warm bath 1 fr. 25 c. , Russian bath for 1-2 pers. 5 fr. ; Francesco Sutone's , Porto Salvo 11-13 , bath 1 fr. — Sea Baths in the Stradone del Borgo (PI. F, 5), and near Acquasanta (PI. I, 7), from June to September. Swimmers will probably prefer to bathe early in the morning from a boat, which they may hire 0/2 fr.) at the Sanita, outside the Porta Felice.

248 Route 23. PALERMO. Theatres.

Post Office, on the E. side of Piazza Bologni (PI. 88; C, 3); branch- offices in the Palazzo delle Finanze (PI. 85; D, 5) and in the Via Molo, opposite the Dogana (PI. H, 7).

Telegraph Office, Via Macqueda 222, not far from the Quattro Canti (to the left in going thence to the Porta Macqueda).

Steamhoat Office. Societd Florio-Rubattino, Corso Vitt. Emanuele 96, at the corner of the Piazza Marina.

Booksellers. Carlo Clausen ('Libreria Internazionale'), Via Vittorio Emanuele 360, at the corner of the Piazza Bologni, with a circulating library ('biblioteca circolante' ; information of all kinds given to travellers).

— Second-hand books : Giovanni Fiorenza, Via Vittorio Emanuele 365, near the Quattro Canti, in the direction of the Piazza Vittoria ; Costa, Via Mac- queda 224. — Music: Luigi Sandron, Via Vittorio Emanuele 381; Ricordi, same street No. 224. — Newspaper: Giornale di Sicilia (5 c). — Photo- graphs: Sommer, Porcasi, Incorpora, adjoining each other in the Via Vit- torio Emanuele, near the Piazza S. Spirito (PL C, 6). — Watchmaker: Zollikofer, Via Vittorio Emanuele 142.

Teachers of Italian. Signor Mastropasqua, professor in the Istituto Tecnico ; Signora Bonafede.

Bankers. Ingham & Whitaker, Via Lampedusa ; Morrison & Co., Piazza Marina ; Wedekind, Pal. Cattolica, Via Cintorinai 48. Money Changers : Gio. Yaldes, Via Vitt. Em. 104, and others in the same street.

Guide: Francesco Sutone, see p. 247. In the town 6 fr. per day; out- side 10 fr. , incl. provisions, but excl. railway -fares. Sutone also pro- cures lodgings.

Goods Agents. Miiller & Guldi, Piazza Marina 79; Trifonio Medici Piazza Marina. • '

Health (comp. also p. 232). Precautions should be taken against ill- nesses of a gastric nature by proper attention to clothing and diet. Sitting in the open air is rendered dangerous in some parts of the town by the dampness of the ground. The drinking-water of Palermo should be used with some caution; when there is any tendency to diarrhoea, it should be drunk mixed with red wine, or in the form of weak tea. A new water-supply is projected. Diseases of the eye are very common, but the blinding .glare of the sun may be neutralised by the us.e of umbrellas and spectacles of coloured glass.

Physicians. Dr. Berlin, Via Patuano 12 (PI. E, 5) ; Dr. Stobwasser, Hotel des Palmes. — Chemists. English, Via Vitt. Emanuele 27 ; Caputo, Via Vitt. Emanuele 95 ; Farmacia Internazionale (Misuraca), Via Borgo 292; Candela, Pal. Briuceia, Via Cintorinai.

Theatres. Teatro Bellini (PI. 95; C, 4), Piazza della Martorana; Poli- teama Garibaldi, Piazza Ruggero Settimo (PI. F, 4; p. 260); S. Cecilia (PI. 96 ; C, 4) , Via Santa Cecilia ; Garibaldi, Via Castrofilippo, the last two second-rate houses with popular performances.

Consuls. American: Mr. Horace C. Pugh; Vice-consul, Mr. C. J. La- id. — British: Mr. B. L. Dupuis; Vice-consul, Mr. J. H. Townsey.

English Church (of the Holy Cross), Via Stabile, opposite the Hotel des Palmes ; services at 11 a.m. and 7 p.m. ; chaplain, Rev. Dr. Dixon, Pal. Barbaro, Via Emerico Amari. — Presbyterian Service, Via del Bosco 73. — Italian Free Church, Pal. Campofranco, Piazza Croce de' Vespri ; Italian Methodists, Pal. Raffadali; Waldensian Church, Pal. Cuto, Via Macqueda 36.

— British Sailors'1 Rest, Via Borgo 380.

Attractions. During a stay of four days at Palermo the traveller should visit : — 1st Day. S. Giovanni degli Eremiti (p. 252), the Eoyal Palace with the "Cappella Palatina (p. 250), the 'Cathedral (p. 253), and La Zisa (p. 267) in the forenoon ; "Monte Pellegrino (p. 268) in the afternoon. — 2nd Day. Oratorio del S. Rosario (p. 267), S. Domenico (p. 266), and the "Mu- seum (p. 260) in the forenoon; Monreale (p. 271) and "Villa Tasca (p. 271), and perhaps also S. Martino, in the afternoon. — 3rd Day. "S. Maria di Gesii (p. 273), S. Cataldo, and Martorana (P- 255) in the forenoon; Acquasanta and ,: Villa Belmonte (p. 268), or La Favorita (p. 269) and back by omnibus

History. PALERMO. 23. Route. 249

from S. Lorenzo to the Giardino Inglese (p. 260) in the afternoon; the Marina (p. 259) and the Villa Giulia (p. 259) in the evening. — 4th Day. Excursion to Bagheria and *Soluntum (p. 275); thence drive to Cefalu or Girgenti. — The beautiful public and private Gardens in Palermo and its environs add greatly to its charm as a residence. Admission to the finest of the latter is generally obtainable by the payment of a small fee. Travellers should spend perhaps half of the time at their disposal on the gardens and excursions.

The Festival of St. Rosalia (p. 269), ll-15th July, is accompanied with horse-races, regattas, illuminations, etc. The annual processsion to the chapel of the saint takes place in September.

Palermo, the capital of Sicily, with. 267,000 inhab., is the mili- tary, judicial, and ecclesiastical headquarters of the island, and possesses one of the seven principal Italian universities. It lies in 38° 6' 44" N. latitude, on the W. side of the Bay of Palermo, which opens towards the E., and is enclosed by the fertile plain of the Conca d'Oro, beyond which rises an amphitheatre of imposing mountains. On the N. the city is sheltered by the finely shaped Monte Pellegrino, opposite which, on the E., lies the Monte Catal- fano. Palermo is justly entitled to the epithet 'lafelice', on account of its magnificent situation and delightful climate. The town is on the whole well built, although the houses are generally of unim- posing exterior. It forms an oblong quadrangle, the E. end of which adjoins the sea. Two main streets divide it into four quarters. A new quarter of the town, consisting chiefly of villas and residences for visitors, has sprung up to the N. of the Via Cavour.

The commerce of the city, which is to a great extent in the hands of foreigners , has overtaken that of Messina and is steadily increasing. Sumach, sulphur, oranges, and lemons are largely ex- ported. The harbour presents ananimated scene. Steamers of many foreign companies call at Palermo; and the Navigazione Gene- rale Italiana (Florio-Rubattino) , whose fleet is perhaps the most numerous of all, has one of its chief seats in the capital of Sicily.

The narrow and shallow harbour, called La Cala, on the N. W. side of which lie the ruins of Fort Castellammare, extended in ancient and mediaeval times farther into the city, including the present Piazza Marina and reach- ing on the W. as far as the Via Argenteria, whence the Greek name of the city Panormos ('entirely harbour1). The ancient town stretching down to S. Antonio (PI. 5; D, 4), was bounded by two brooks which emptied themselves into the harbour, the course of which may still be traced in the Via di Porta di Castro on the S. and the depression of the Papireto (PI. D, 2), the Piazza S. Onofrio, and the Piazza Nuova on the N. To the N. and S. of the old town lay the suburbs.

Panormus was originally a Phoenician settlement , and , until it was captured in B. C. 254 by the Romans, was one of the most important strongholds of the Carthaginians. Hamilcar Barca besieged the city from the Heircte (Monte Pellegrino , p. 268) for three years , in a vain attempt to recover it. It afterwards belonged to the Romans and was colonised by Augustus. In 535 A. D. a fleet under Belisarius captured the city from the Goths, and thenceforth it remained under the Byzantine emperors till the arrival of the Arabs in 830. The latter made it their capital, and it rapidly attained a high pitch of prosperity, counting at one period 300,000 .inhabitants. In 1072 the Normans obtained possession of it, and in 1193 the Germans in the person of Henry VI. (p. 237). The French house of Anjou was expelled in 1280 (Sicilian Vespers). The monarchs of the house of

250 Route 23. PALERMO. Cappella Palatina.

Aragon seldom resided here. The Chiaramonte, powerful feudal barons and .Counts of Modica, who erected a spacious palace for themselves at Palermo, were long the real rulers of the place. It was not until the 15th cent, that Palermo began to recover from the sufferings of this long period of anar- chy. The Spanish Viceroys of Sicily, notwithstanding the loud remon- strances of Messina, selected this city as their residence, and the nobles and clergy of their court contributed to swell its magnificence and gaiety. From this period , the 16th and 17th cent. , date the two main streets, and many of the churches and palaces which now form the characteristic features in the architectural appearance of Palermo. Outward splendour could not long, however, conceal the numerous evils of the Spanish rule; and in 1647 a revolt took place, whose leader Giuseppe d'Alessi met the fate of Masaniello (p. 39). The people notwithstanding remained faithful to the Spaniards till 1713, against both the French and the Austrians. In 1798 and again in 1806 the Neapolitan court took refuge in Palermo ; and Ferdinand I. resided here until 1815. The Sicilian parliament met here in 1812. The revolt of 1820 involved Palermo in much loss ; while the cholera in 1837 swept off 24,000 victims in 8 weeks. In Jan. and Feb., 1848 the town, which for a year and a half had been the seat of the revol- utionary government (p. 238), was subjected to a destructive bombard- ment of over three weeks; and after the final revolt against the Bourbons, which broke out on April 4th 1S6U, Palermo suffered the same terrible ex- perience until the victorious entry of Garibaldi on May 27th. Under Ital- ian rule the town has extended considerably, especially towards the N. Large sums of money, averaging 1,000,000 fr. yearly, have been expended in laying out avenues, in paving the streets, and in other works con- ducing to the beauty of the town and the public health.

Palermo possesses very few ancient architectural remains , but this want is amply compensated by its interesting mediaeval monuments (comp. pp. 243-246).

On the S.W. side of the town , at the end of the Via Vittorio Emanuele, lies the spacious Piazza dblla Vittokia (PL C, 2), where the *Palazzo Keale (PI. 87) rises on a slight eminence which has always been the site of the castle of the city. The nuc- leus of this building is of Saracenic origin. Additions were made by Robert Guiscard, King Roger, the two Williams, Frederick II., and Manfred ; and it afterwards underwent many alterations, so that the central tower with the pointed arches (S. Ninfa) is now the only relic of Norman times. Notwithstanding this it still retains traces of its origin as a defensive structure.

The gate farthest to the left leads into the Palace Court (guide Y2 fr-i unnecessary), which is enclosed by arcades. Ascend- ing a staircase on the left, and turning to the right on the first floor, we enter the —

**Cappella Palatina, built before the year 1132 by King Ro- ger II. in the Arabic -Norman style and dedicated to St. Peter (open 7.30 to 11 a.m.; at other times fee; best light early in the morning). The whole, with its mosaic decorations, is a perfect gem of mediaeval art, perhaps the most beautiful palace- chapel in the world.

The Vestibule, embellished with modern mosaics, forms the remains of a porticus, which at one time surrounded the entire chapel; of its seven columns, six are of Egyptian granite. To the left is an inscription on the wall in Latin, Greek, and Arabic, referring to the erection of a clock in 1142.

The Interior consists of a nave with aisles, and is 36 yds. long (in- cluding the apse) and 14 yds. in width. The Saracenic pointed arches are

Observatory. PALERMO. 23. Route. 251

borne by ten columns of granite and eipollino, 16 ft. in height. The choir is approached by five steps, and over the crossing rises a dome 75 ft. in height, pierced by eight narrow windows, and bearing Greek and Latin inscriptions. The beautiful wooden roof of the nave is also adorned with a Curie (ancient Arabic) inscription. To the right are a pulpit and marble candelabrum, 14'/2 ft. high, in Norman work of the 12th cent, (the four top figures added later). The Gothic choir-stalls are modern. — The floor is laid with coloured mosaics.

The Walls are entirely covered with "Mosaics (partly restored) on a golden ground, and radiant with oriental splendour. The mosaics re- present subjects from the Old Testament and the lives of Christ, St. Peter, and St. Paul. The most antique are those of the choir, which, with the exception of the Madonna , completed in modern times , date from the reign of King Koger; Christ is represented here in the style which recurs in all Norman mosaics, the finest specimen of which is at Cefalu (p. 309). The most modern are those above the royal throne, which faces the altar. The throne bears the arms of Aragon, and, subsequently added, those of Savoy. Amidst the wondrous magic of the general effect , the com- paratively uninteresting details will attract less notice. — To the left of the entrance a bronze door, of the Norman period, with ornamentation in the antique manner, leads to the Sacristy, which contains the archives with Greek, Latin, and Arabic documents, and the treasury. In the latter, No. 7, a large ivory casket, of Arab workmanship, and an enamelled ostensorium (ca. 1600) are noteworthy.

Leaving the chapel, we ascend the principal staircase on the W. side of the court to the arcades of the second floor, and enter the passage to the left, where the first door on the right bears the inscription, 'R. Osservatorio' . This is the entrance to the observatory, which is fitted up in the tower of 8. Ninfa (the former Torre Piscina) , the oldest part of the edifice (open to the public on Thursdays, 10-3; to travellers .daily). In 1801 Piazzi here discovered Ceres, the first of the asteroids.

We ascend two flights of steps and enter by a door, where we find the custodian C/2-l fr.). The flat roof commands a superb ^Panorama. At our feet lies the Piazza della Vittoria, above the left angle of which rises the Cathedral ; in front of the latter is the Pal. Arcivescovile ; on the right is the beginning of the Via Vittorio Emanuele. To the left beyond it lies the harbour, commanded on the left by the Monte Pellegrino ; to the left in the background rise the mountains of the Capo Gallo ; below them, in the fore- ground, is the Porta Nuova ; to the left, farther distant, La Zisa, a cubical yellow building with numerous windows ; farther to the left in the background rises the pointed Monte Cuccio, prolonged on the left by the hill of Mon- reale. Farther to the left, at our feet, extends the Giardino Reale, above which is the Piazza delFIndipendenza with the obelisks. In the foreground, S.E., is the tower of the red church ofS. Giovanni degli Eremiti ; beyond it the cypress-grove of the Carnpo Santo ; in the distance , at the base of the lofty M. Griffone, S. Maria di Gesii; more to the left, M. Catalfano, abut- ting on the sea; on the promontory, to the right of the latter, Bagheria.

The door at the end of the above-mentioned passage leads to the apartments of the palace , the most noticeable of which are the so-called *Stanza di Ruggero, with walls of mosaic from the Norman period (the German eagle on the ceiling indicates a later restoration), and a room with portraits of the viceroys (fee i/2-l fr.).

Connected with the Palazzo Reale are the fortified city-gates. To the right (N.) is the Porta Nuova, a remarkable building in the baroque style, through which the Monreale road (p. 271) leads past the (1/2 M.) Cuba. Access to the upper part of this gate,

252 Route 23. PALERMO. Palazzo Sclafani.

which commands a beautiful view in all directions, is obtained from the Palazzo Reale. (The Via della Colonna Rotta, the first side-street to the right, outside the gate, leads to the Zisa, 2/3 M.; see p. 267.J To the left formerly stood the Porta di Castro, through which led the road to Parco (p. 273). Outside the Porta Nuova lies the Piazza dell' Indipendenza , embellished with an obelisk. — In the corner of the Piazza della Vittoria, nearly opposite the entrance to the palace, rises a Monument to Philip V. (PI. C, 2), erected in 1856 on the site of a statue of Philip IV. destroyed in 1848.

The Via del Bastione di Porta di Castro leads in a few min- utes from this point to the church of S. Giovanni degli Eremiti (PI. 32 ; 0, 1), one of the earliest existing Norman churches, founded in 1132, and the most remarkable church in Palermo. The five unadorned domes , rising directly from the plain perpendicular walls, present quite an Oriental appearance. The church is closed ; visitors ring at the garden-gate (fees forbidden ; the custodian offers worthless antiquities for sale).

The Interior presents the form of a so-called Egyptian croS8 (T), with three apses; the nave is divided into two squares by a pointed arch. — On the S. side are the remains of a small mosque, divided into two aisles by a row of 5 columns; a small portico leads into a square court. Under the Normans the entire building was used as a burial-place for the nobility ; and only a few traces of the frescoes of the 12th cent, are now visible. — Adjoining the church are pretty but dilapidated Cloisters, of later date than the church. — The best view of the domes is obtained from the S. side of the garden.

On the E. side of the Piazza della Vittoria, opposite the palace, is the Palazzo Sclafani (PI. 93 ; C, 2), built in 1330, since the 15th cent, the Spedale Grande, and now a barrack. Remains of the old external decoration are visible on the E. and S. walls. The arcades of the second court are decorated (right) with a large fresco of the 15th cent., the *Triumph of Death, ascribed by tradition to a Fle- mish painter, once confined here by sickness (shown on week-days 3-4 p.m., after previous application at the Museo Nazionale).

Death rises in triumph over pope, kings, etc. ; to the right, his arrows have struck down a fashionable lady and a youth in the midst of a social party, while on the left the poor and wretched implore him in vain for release from their misery. The painter, with pencil and mahl-stick, stands beside the latter group.

At the opposite corner of the Piazza is the Archiepiscopal Palace (PI. 84 ; D, 2), with its facade towards the Piazza del Duomo, dating in its present form from the 16th century. The beautiful Gothic window , at the corner of the facade , is a relic of the original building; another corner window was adorned by the Gagini. The sword at the entrance is said to have belonged to the Oalabrian Bonelli, who murdered the Grand Admiral Majo de Bari in 1160. The tower, connected with the cathedral by two graceful arches, was originally erected in the 12th cent., but in its present form is modern. — At the corner of the archiepiscopal palace is the

Cathedral. PALERMO. 23. Route. 253

Infirmbbxa. dbi Sacekdoti, the chapel of which contains a Pieta by Marcello Venusti. The entrance is from the Piazza Papireto (PI. D, 2), the site of which, as late as the 16th cent., was occupied by a papyrus-swamp. We follow the Via Bonella, at the corner of which, opposite the cathedral, lies the ruined church of the Ma- donna dell' Incoronata, dating from the 16th cent., with a Norman chapel and frescoes of the 14th cent, (key in the Museo Nazionale).

The spacious Piazza del Duomo (PI. D, 2) is enclosed by a marble balustrade, erected in 1761 and adorned with sixteen large statues of saints. In the centre rises a statue of S. Rosalia, on a triangular pedestal, placed here in 1744.

The 'Cathedral, or church of the Assunta (PI. 15; D, 2), in which restorations to its disadvantage have been undertaken in eaoh century since its foundation, was erected in 1169-85 by Archbishop Walter of the Mill (Gualterio Offamilio) , an English- man, on the site of a more ancient church, which had been converted into a mosque and subsequently reconverted into a Christian place of worship. The broad gable was added in 1450 to the beautiful S. portico; the door dates from 1425. The character of the ancient building is best preserved on the E. side, with its (restored) black ornamentation. The W- facade, with the prin- cipal portal and the two towers, erected in 1300-59, is particularly fine. The old bell -tower here, connected with the cathedral by two arches, dates chiefly from the 12th cent., although restored in modern times. In 1781-1801 the church was disfigured by the ad- dition of a dome, constructed by Fernando Fuga, the Neapolitan, in spite of the remonstrances of the Sicilian architects. Fuga also spoiled the interior, constructing new side apses in the middle of the transepts, without regard to the original recesses.

The Interior is open to visitors 7-11 a.m., and after 4 p.m. — The S. Aisle (left of the S. Portal) contains the "Tombs of the Kings. Here, in admirably executed sarcophagi of porphyry (which , originally prepared for King Roger, stood in the cathedral at Cefalu), surmounted by canopies, repose: Emp. Frederick II. (d. 1250), to the right his father Henry VI. (d. 1197), behind to the left, King Roger (d. 1154), to the right, his daughter Constance, wife of Henry VI. In a niche to the left is the sarcophagus of William , son of Frederick III. of Aragon ; and in the antique sar- cophagus, with hunting scenes, to the right, reposes Constance of Aragon, wife of Frederick II. In 1781 the sarcophagi were transferred hither from a chapel contiguous to the choir, and opened. The remains of Roger, Henry VI., and Constance were greatly decomposed, whilst those of Fred- erick II. were in good preservation. With the latter the remains of two other bodies were found, one that of Peter II. of Aragon, the other Duke William, son of King Frederick II. of Aragon. The corpse of the great emperor was enveloped in sumptuous robes with inscriptions in Arabic; beside him lay the crown and imperial apple, and his sword.

On the left wall of the chapel to the left of the tombs, is a 4St. Cecilia, by Antonio di Crescenzio (about 1500), with an angel playing a lute.

In the second chapel of the N. Aisle is an Assumption, from a work in marble by Ant. Oagini, other parts of which (reliefs) are in different parts of the church. By the 4th pillar, a font of the 15th century. In the 7th chapel, statue of the Madonna by Francesco Laurana of Dalmatia (1469). In the 8th chapel, a Passion, by Oagini.

254 Route 23. PALERMO. Quattro Canti.

The Choir contains statues of the apostles by Gagini, and fine old carved stalls. To the right of the choir is the Cappella di S. Rosalia. Here the saint (p. 269) reposes in a sarcophagus of silver, over 1400 lbs. in weight, exhibited only on 11th Jan., 15th July, and 4th September.

The Sacristy is at the end of the S. aisle. Here are exhibited the cap of Constance of Aragon (taken from her coffin in the 16th cent.), a piece of Henry VI.'s mantle , and a gorgeous pallium of Spanish work- manship (fee to attendant, who also shows the crypt, 1fa-l fr.).

The sCeypt beneath the choir, containing the remains of the arch- bishops in ancient and early-Christian sarcophagi, should also be visited. Here, among others, repose Gualterio Offamilio (d. 1190), Paterno, the patron of Ant. Gagini , by whom his statue is executed, and Frederick of Antioch (d. 1305; the recumbent figure dates from the 16th cent.).

The bioad main street of Palermo, the Corso or Via Vittorio Emanuele, was constructed in its present form by the Spanish viceroy Don Pedro de Toledo (comp. p. 40), but was long popularly known as the Cassaro , from the name it bore originally (Arab, 'al Kassar', the castle). Following it hence to the N.E., towards the sea , we pass on the left the former Collegio Nuovo (PI. 79 ; D, 3) of the Jesuits , now containing the National Library (open daily, 9-3) and the Lyceum. — Opposite, on the left side'of the Via del Protonotario, is a convent-wall of 1072.

Farther on in the Via Vittorio Emanuele, to the right, is the magnificent church of S. Salvatore (PI. 68; O, 3), designed by Amato (1628). The interior, in which the play of light and shadow is particularly fine, is oval, with three large recesses. The dome is adorned with angels and saints, and the walls are covered with 'putti', garlands, and scroll-work of coloured marble.

We next reach on the left the Palazzo Oeraci (with the Casino Nuovo, p. 247) and the Pal. Riso (formerly Belmonte), built in 1790 by Marvuglia. From this point a 'vicolo' leads to the Chibsa del Cancelliere (PI. 46a; D, 3), founded in 1171 by Matteo di Aiello, and restored in 1590; in the first chapel on the left is an Adoration, by Antonio da Saliba (1490).

In the small Piazza Bologni (PL O, 3), where the victims of the Inquisition were formerly executed, is a statue of Charles V. by Livolsi (1630). To the W. stands the Palazzo Villafranca, to the E. the Post Office (PL 88), in the old church of S. Nicola.

Farther on we come to the Quattro Canti (PL C, D, 3, 4), or Piazza Vigliena, a small octagonal piazza, situated in the very heart of the city. It was constructed by the viceroy Marquis de Villena in 1609. The four facades looking towards the piazza are em- bellished with columns and statues of the Seasons, Spanish kings, and the holy virgins of Palermo. — In the S. angle of the piazza rises the richly-decorated church of S. Giuseppe de' Teatini (PL 35, C 3; beginning of the 17th cent.). The baroque angels bearing the holy water vessel are by Marabitti , and the frescoes by Tancredi and Borromanus. This church was the scene of the meetings of the people under Giuseppe d'Alesi (1647). The crypt, or lower church (Madonna della Providenza), is also remarkable.

Martorana. PALERMO. 23. Route. 255

Passing this church , we turn to the right into the Via Mac- ciubda, and reach one of the most interesting quarters of the town.

On the left side of this' street is the Piazza Pretoria (PL 0, 4), with a large Fountain executed about 1550 by the Florentine sculp- tors Camilliani and Vagherino, and originally destined for a villa of the viceroy Garcia di Toledo. The Palazzo dblla Citta or Palazzo Municipale (PL 86), on the right, contains statues of a Roman and his wife in the court, a Oenius of Palermo (15th cent.) on the staircase, and a Greek * Statue (Antinous or Apollo) on the first floor (staircase to the left at the end of the court; fee 30 c). — In this piazza are also the old Pal. Serradifalco, and the side-entrance to the church oiS. Caterina(V\. 14; end of 16th cent.), the interior of which is gorgeously decorated in the baroque style.

Farther on, in a small piazza on the left side of the Via Mac- queda, is a flight of a steps ascending to the right to two Norman churches (restored; adm. 8-4, 1 fr., Sun. free). The smaller church, dedicated to 8. Cataldo, was begun in 1161; of its three domes, the central one is supported by four columns. The original altar, and the mosaic pavement of the interior are still preserved; outside, the old Arabian battlemented frieze is visible.

The larger church of *La Martorana (PL 54; C, 4) was erected in 1143 by Georgios Antiochenos, grand-admiral of Roger I., and from him derived its original name of 8. Maria cleW Ammiraglio. It was the meeting-place of the Sicilian parliament, after the ex- pulsion of the house of Anjou. Adm. 8-4, 1 fr. ; Sun. 10-5 free.

The church was originally quadrangular, with three apses, and a dome borne by four columns in the Byzantine style, and was adorned inside and out with mosaics, probably by Greek artists. The nuns of the convent of Martorana, presented in 1433 with the church, caused the edifice to be extended towards the W. In 1684 the central apse was replaced by a square chapel, and in 1726 the work of destruction was carried still farther by the removal of the mosaics from the walls. The dome, injured by an earthquake, was also removed in 1726. An attempt, however, is now being made to restore the church in accordance with the ancient plan, the mosaics being entrusted to the brothers Bonanni. The present vestibule contains two columns, with Arabic inscriptions, perhaps taken from a mosque, and two mosaic-pictures, probably from the original facade. The mosaic to the left represents the admiral Georgios Antiochenos at the feet of the Virgin (only the head and hands are old; the rest dates from a poor restoration in the 17th cent.); that on the right represents King Roger crowned by Christ. — The two upper stories of the four -storied campanile were rebuilt, probably in the 14th century.

To the right in the Via Macqueda is situated the University (PL 99; 0, 3), attended by about 1100 students, with important natural history collections, among which the fishes in the zoological, the fossil mammalia in the palaeontological, and the fine specimens of Sicilian sulphur and articles found in caves in the geological department are the most interesting. (The scientific traveller may also probably gain admittance to the Marchese Monterosato's ad- mirable collection of Oonchylia, Via Carella.) — In the street ad- jacent to the university, on the right, we reach the Casa Professa

256 Route 23. PALERMO. Via Vitt. Emanuele.

(PL 13; 0, 3), with the Jesuits' Church, completed in 1683, and overladen with ornament. Adjoining it is the Biblioteca Comunale (PL 77), entered by a Doric vestibule in the street to the right, and containing a most valuable collection of books and MSS. relative to Sicilian history. On the first floor is the 'Historical Hall', open daily from 9 to 4. — In the neighbourhood is the church Del Car- mine Maggiore (PL 41 ; B, 3), a magnificent building of the 17th cent.; in the 1st chapel to the right: Novelli, S. Andrea Corsini; 3rd chapel on the right: Statue of St. Catharine, 1521; chapel to the right of the choir, copy after Tomm. de Vigilia. — The first side-street to the left in the Via Porta di Castro leads to the tower of S. Niceolb dell' Albergheria (PL 59; C, 3), in which are a couple of Norman windows. On the other side the Salita Benfratelli leads to the street and church of S. Chiara (PL 16; C, 3), containing a Pieta by Novelli, and thence to the mediaeval Palazzo Raffadale. — Farther on in the Via Porta di Castro (PL C, 2), a 'vicolo' di- verges to the right to the Palazzo del Conte Federico, with scanty remains of the mediaeval erection.

The Via Macqueda ends at the Porta S. Antonino (PL B, 3, 4), outside of which is the Railway Station (PL A, 4).

The Via Divisi, diverging to the left from the Via Macqueda, between the Quattro Canti and the Porta S. Antonino, leads to the little church of S. Maria di tutte le Orazie (PL 48 ; B, 4), a fine specimen of 15th cent. Gothic, and thence to the Piazza della Ri- voluzione (PL 0, 4), so called, because the revolutionary standard was here first unfurled in 1848. Its former name was 'Fiera Vecchia' or old market. The statue of the Oenius of Palermo was removed in 1849 by the Bourbon government, but restored in 1860 by the people. — We next cross the Piazza Aragona to the Piazza Cboce de' Vespri , in the centre of which rises a marble column with a cross, surrounded by a railing of lances and halberds, erected in 1737 to the memory of the French buried here in 1282 (the original is now in the Museo Nazionale). — The Palazzo Set- tirno in the Via del Teatro S. Cecilia contains a valuable library. — The Via Garibaldi (PL B, 4) leads S. from the Piazza della Ri- voluzione to the Porta Garibaldi, by which Garibaldi entered the town on 27th May 1860. On the left side of this street is the Pa- lazzo Ajutamicristo ; the door and one side of the court date from the original building, erected by Matteo Carnevale in 1490. — The next side-street leads to the Piazza della Magione (p. 258).

If we follow the Via Vittorio Emanuele , and cross the Quattro Canti in the direction of the sea, we reach the church of S. Matteo (PL 55; D, 4), which contains a fine picture of the Virgin and St. Anna by Novelli (4th chapel to the left) and statues by Serpotta. Farther on is a small piazza on the left, where the sea-gate of the old town of Palermo was situated down to the 16th century. Thence we proceed through a gate inscribed 'Domus

Piazza Marina. PALERMO. 23. Route. 257

Dei Porta Cceli' into a passage, which leads to the church of S. An- tonio (PL 5; D, 4), a structure of the early part of the 13th cent., restored after an earthquake in 1823 but freely modernized. It contains scanty remains of the original mosaics. The Byzantine ground-plan corresponds with those of La Martorana and S. Cataldo (p. 255). At the end of the Salita di S. Antonio are some curious old mediaeval buildings (to the left).

Returning to the Via Vitt. Emanuele , we soon reach the Via Cintorinai, a cross-street on the right, leading to S. Francesco de' Chiodari (PL 25; C, 5), in the piazza of that name. This church has an early-Gothic facade (restored) , with columns from a Saracenic building. In the modernized interior are remains of frescoes by Pietro Novelli. The Sicilian parliament of 1848 met in the adjoining convent. To the left is the Oratorio di San Lorenzo (PL 37) , with excellent stucco-figures by Serpotta, a Nativity by Michelangelo da Caravaggio , and intarsia-work of the 18th cent, (entr. in the court to the left). — To the right, in the Via Cintorinai (No. 48), is the old Pal. Cattolica, with a fine court.

Farther on the Via Vitt. Emanuele emerges on the Piazza Marina (see below). To the left is the new government Finance Office (PL 85), opposite which is the Fontana del Oaraffo, by Amato (1698). — At the corner of the Via Fonderia is the church Di Porto Salvo, a Renaissance edifice, divided into two in 1581. — At the beginning of the side-street on the left leading to the small harbour of La Cala, which is sheltered from the E. wind by a pier, is the small church of S. Maria delta Catena (PL 47; D, 5), erected towards the close of the 15th cent, on the site of an earlier edifice. The name refers to the chain with which the mouth of the harbour used to be closed. The charming vestibule exhibits the unusually depressed form of arch frequently seen in S. Italy towards the close of the Gothic period. The interior is undergoing restoration. The loggia overlooks the harbour.

Continuing to follow the Via Vitt. Emanuele , we reach the Piazza di S. Spirito (PI. C, 6), with the Conservatorio of that name (PL 78), founded in 1608, formerly a hospice, and now the Foundling Hospital ; on the facade is a Carita by Vincenzo Riolo. Nearly opposite is the house (No. 12), marked by an inscription, in which Goethe lodged in 1787. Beyond the piazza is the Porta Felice (PL C, D, 6), so named after Felice Orsini, wife of the viceroy Colonna, a tasteful baroque edifice begun in 1582, but by no means improved by the fountains and statues added on the seaward side in 1644.

The Piazza Marina (PL C, 5), one of the finest in Palermo, is adorned with the pleasure - grounds of the Giardino Garibaldi, with their beautiful palms. In the S. corner of the square stands the church of S. Maria dei Miracoli, built in 1547. On the S. E. side is the Palazzo Chiaramonti (PL 98), generally called Lo Steri

Baedeker. Italy III. lltli Edition. 17

258 Route 23. PALERMO. Piazza della Kalsa.

(i. e. Hosterium), erected subsequent to 1307 by the Chiaramor family. After the execution of Andrea Chiaramonte in 1392, t palace was occupied by courts of justice. At a later period it becai the residence of the viceroys, and in 1600 the seat of the Inquii tion. In the present century it has again become the Palazzo < Tribunali. One of the halls still preserves its wooden ceiling the 14th century. The door to the right leads through the Doga to the fine court, and to the adjoining palace-chapel of S. Antoi Abbate, with a restored facade.

On the S. side of the piazza is the modern Palazzo San Catalc to the right of which the Vicolo Palagonia leads to the earlier Palaz 8. Cataldo, a good early-Renaissance building , and to the left t Via Quattro Aprile to the monastery della Oangia (PI. 28; C, i the monks of which have taken an active part in every revolutic including that of 1860.

The Church dates from the 15th cent. In the 2nd chapel to the rig Antonio da Palermo, Madonna di Monserrato (1528) ; beyond the 5th ch to the right, a sculptured pulpit, and in front on the choir-pillars, t figures (Annunciation) by Oagini. The choir contains fine carved sta Next the choir, to the left, Vincenzo di Pavia, Sposalizio; 3rd chap, the left, Novelli, S. Pietro di Alcantara.

Farther on in the Via Alloro (PI. 0, 5, 6) is the Palazzo Abbatt (1495; now a convent of the nuns della Pieta), with a Spanish moi over the door, and, at the end of the street, the church della Pu (PI. 52; C, 5), a baroque edifice of 1680. The Vicolo dei Cattivi, o posite, leads to the promenade-terraces and the Pal. Butera ("Vie1!

The Via Torremuzza leads from the Pieta church to that of Teresa, in the Piazza della Kalsa (PI. B, 6) , so called from t Arabic name ('Kalesa') for the new town , and embellished witl marble statue of Giov. Meli, the poet. Opposite this church is t Porta dei Oreci (PI. B, 6), which owes its name to the Greeks w inhabited this suburb during the middle ages. The side next t sea forms the Palazzo Forcella (now the Pal. Baucind).

A vicolo leads by S. Teresa to the Piazzetta dello Spasimo, which, at the corner to the left, is a Renaissance palace, begun 1542, adjoined by the entrance to the ancient church of 8. Mai della Vittoria (PI. 29 ; B, 5). In the first chapel to the right this church is shown the door through which Robert Guiscard e tered the city. — Farther on, in the large open space to the le rise the massive arches of the church of 8. Maria dello Spasimo (] 53 ; B, 5 ; now a hospital), an unfinished building dating from t beginning of the 16th century. Raphael painted his Christ bearii the Cross, now in Madrid, for this church. — The archway in t little Piazza Vitriera leads to the Piazza dblla Magione (PI. B, I At the end of the piazza (to the right) we see the choir of the churc to the right of which we reach the monastery and the side-entranc and to the left, round the houses, the court of the Magione (PL 4 B, 5). The church, disfigured by a modern Doric porch, was foum

BotanicUarden. PALERMO. 23. Route. 259

ed for the Cistercians about 1150 by Matteo di Aiello, and presented to the Teutonic Order in 1193 by Henry VI. as a 'mansio'. The N. aisle contains tombs of knights of the order, of the 15th century.

A beautiful walk is afforded by the * Marina (PI. C, B, A, 6), officially called the Foro Italico, a quay extending to the S. from the Porta Felice along the sea, commanding fine views towards the S. as far as the promontory of Monte Catalfano (to the right of which Mt. JEtna is visible in clear weather), and, to the N., of the beautiful Mte. Pellegrino. In summer and autumn the fashionable citizens of Palermo congregate here to listen to the music of a band.

At the S. end of the Marina lies the Flora, or *Villa Giulia (PI. B, A, 6), which is entered from the Via Lincoln, a street leading towards the W. to the Porta S. Antonino. This public garden, one of the most beautiful in Italy, first laid out in 1777, has recently been considerably extended and improved. The air here in spring is laden with the delicious and aromatic perfumes of oranges, citrons, Erythrina corallodendron, Cercis siliquastrum, and other blossoming trees and shrubs. Opposite the main entrance, at the end of the garden, stands the most important work of recent Palerman sculpture, consisting of a group of the modern Greek naval heroes, the brothers Canaris, executed by Benedetto Civiletti.

Adjoining the Flora is the *Botanic Garden (PI. A, B, 5), which deserves a visit (1/2 fr. to the gardener).

The beautiful avenue of Date Palms and Gycas Revoluta will attract the attention of every visitor. Near the entrance are two Australian Coco-trees , while scattered throughout the grounds are fine specimens of Latania Borbonica, Corypha Australis, Musa Ensete, Bananas, Bamboos (at- taining a height of 45 ft.), Strelitzia, Wigandia, Philodendron Pertusum, Australian Myrtaceae, Melaleucea, etc. In one of the water-basins are a few Papyrus Plants. Some of the flowering- plants in the greenhouses are of astonishing brilliancy.

Following the N. half of the Via Macqueda (PI. D, E, 3, 4) from the Quattro Canti (p. 254) in the direction of the Porta Mac- queda, we reach on the right beside a flight of steps descending to the Piazza Nuova (PI. D, 4), the little church of S. Maria delta Volta, with a Madonna by Brescianino (at the 2nd altar to the right). Giu- seppe d'Alesi was assassinated here in 1647. — Beyond the Piazza Nuova lies the Piazza Caraccioli, the old meat and vegetable mar- ket. The Via Argenteria leads straight on , past the interesting Renaissance facade of S. Eulalia de' Catalani (PI. 24 ; D, 4) , to the busy Piazza Garaffello, No. 16 in which, formerly the Loggia dei Genovesi, bears a bust of Charles V.

The Via Bandiera (PI. D, 4) which diverges to the right from the Via Macqueda, farther on, leads to the church of S. Pietro Mar- tire , which contains paintings by Novelli (Entombment , Madonna della Grazia) , and the Palazzo Pietratagliata (formerly Pal. Ter- mini), dating from the 15th century.

In the other direction from the Via Macqueda, the Via S. Agos- tino (PI. D, 3) leads to the church of S. Agostino (PL 2), the Gothic

17*

260 Route 23. PALERMO. Museum.

facade of which dates from the 14th cent. , and on to the Mercato Nuovo (PL E, 3), in which is the pretty little Renaissance church of S. Marco (PL 43). — Farther on in the direction of the cathe- dral lies the church of 8. Agata li Scoruggi (PI. 1 ; D, 3), containing frescoes of the 16th cent., paintings by Zoppo diGanci, an Adoration by Wolberch (1586) , a Dutch painter, and a fountain with won- der-working water (usually closed).

At the end of the Via Macqueda is the Teatro Vittorio Emanuele (PL E, 3), erected by the architect Basile at a cost of 5,000,000 fr., and still unfinished. — Outside the Porta Macqueda (PL E, 3, 4) extends the Piazza Ruggiero Settimo (PL F , 3, 4) , which is embellished with a garden. Statues of two Sicilian patriots have been erected here : on the right that of Ruggiero Settimo (p. 238 ; d. 1862, honorary president of the Italian senate) ; on the left that of Carlo Cottone , Principe di Castelnuovo , who was minister in 1812 , during the brief parliamentary government of Sicily (p. 238). On one side of the piazza stands the Politeama Garibaldi (p. 248). — On the left side of the Via della Libertd (PL G, 3, 4), which leads to the N. from the piazza, are the buildings of the National Exhibition of 1891-92. This street is the fashionable 'corso' on winter afternoons. — A little farther on is the Giardino Inglese (PL H, I, 3, 4), with pleasant grounds , and adorned with busts of Garibaldi, Bixio, and others.

The Via della Bara (PL E, 4), beginning opposite the theatre, leads to the Piazza dell' Oliyella, in which is the church of the same name (PL 63; E, 4; 2nd chapel to the right, Adoration of the Child, by Lorenzo di Credi). The adjoining suppressed monastery dei Filippini contains the —

*Museo Nazionale (PL 82; E, 4). The museum is open daily, 10-3 (Sun. 11-3), except on public holidays, the last three days of the Carnival, and during Passion Week. Admission 1 fr. ; on Sundays gratis. Ant. Salinas, Director.

Ground Floor. We first enter a small colonnaded Court (J. Cortile; recently partly rebuilt) with medieval and Renaissance sculptures and inscriptions. To the right of the entrance is apainted statue of the Madonna (about 1500) ; and in the middle is a Triton (16th cent.) from a fountain in the royal palace, behind which is the column from the Piazza Croce de' Vespri (p. 256). On the wall to the right are Greek inscriptions ; No. 22 (37), in four languages, dates from the 12th century. We pass under a pointed arch (from the Palazzo Sclafani) in the middle of the wall to the adjoining Hall of St. George, with an altar ascribed to A. Gagini (1526) and two state-coaches of the 18th century. — On the third wall of the little colonnaded court to the right, is a very graceful *Statue of the Ma- donna, by A. Gagini. Two doorways, with frames richly ornamented in the Renaissance style, lead to two small rooms, one containing a Bacchante by Villareale (d. 1854) and a beautiful relief of the

Museum.

PALERMO.

23. Route. 261

Madonna (to the right), the other a gilded and painted statue of the Madonna (about 1500), and a tufa altar, with Gothic orna- mentation from the beginning of the 16th century. No. 990, on the fourth wall, is a double-portrait in relief, and No. 998 a por- trait-head from the period of the Renaissance. — Between the tasteful columns from the Pal. Sclafani is the staircase ascending to the upper floors ; see p. 263.

The Second Court (II. Cortile) , formerly the cloisters, con- tains ancient inscriptions and sculptures ; to the right (of unknown origin) : 370. Cybelo ; farther on , ^Esculapius ; Selene and Eros (conceived as standing before the sleeping Endymion); between 368 and 369, Alcaeus. Then small tomb -reliefs from Athens; almost at the end of the wall, small fragment of a Greek relief of a youth standing. — By the opposite wall (to the left of the en- trance), antiquities of Sicilian origin : Fragment of a tripod , with

EIXN lEBlEXO

a snake ; 704. Isis ; Phoenician inscription with a drawing cut into the stone, from Lilybaeum ; sun-dial from Tyndaris ; architec- tural fragments from Solunto ; "Woman sitting between two lions, which , judging from their coverings in front, had human bodies, also from Solunto; Palerman inscriptions, the last one (390) a Christian example of the year 448. ■ — In front of the cross-wall is a statue of Zeus, from Tyndaris, extensively restored; to the left, a seated Jupiter, from Solunto; to the right , Nerva (?), a sitting figure mostly of plaster.

Straight on is a narrow vestibule, the Saladbllb Terkecotte, with numerous objects in clay : reliefs and masks, used as archi- tectonic ornaments, small votive figures of the gods, some from the 6th and 5th cent. B. C. , also figures of animals; of a later period, graceful genre compositions, and painted female figures, resembling those found at Tanagra (by the entrance-wall, to the left; and in the 2nd case on the rear-wall) ; lamps ; on the entrance-wall (right), terracotta slabs from the most antique temples of Selinunto (explan- atory drawings at the windows). — In the centre , two Roman marble candelabra ; two Roman statuettes in porphyry and granite in the Egyptian style ; between them, a Greek terracotta sarcophagus.

262 Route 23. PALERMO. Museum.

We now pass to the right through a small room into the Sala dei Musaici, the floor and walls of which are decorated with the large stone-mosaics found in the Piazza della Vittoria in 1869. That on the floor represents various mythological subjects, and two large heads of Apollo and *Neptune , the latter of which is particularly fine; that on the wall represents Orpheus charming the animals. Here also are three frescoes from Solunto, and small *Pompeian pictures of theatrical suhjects.

We again turn to the right and enter the Sala dbl Fatjno. In the centre is a fine *Satyr from Torre del Greco. Behind , head of a bearded Bacchus and archaistic statues of Athene and Aphrodite. — By the second wall : cornice with gargoyles in the form of lions' heads (5th cent. B. C.) from Himera; headless statue. In the centre, tufa sarcophagus from Girgenti. Beside the door, two excellent Roman portrait-statues from Tyndaris.

The Sala dbllb Metope contains the celebrated ** Metopes of Selinus. As that city was founded in 627 B. C. and destroyed in 429 B. 0., these metopes illustrate the development of Hellenic sculpture from its beginning until a period shortly before its cul- minating point. — To the left, between portions of the massive entablature (largely restored) of the oldest temple (see p. 281 ; Temple C), three Metopes dating from about 600 B. C, and ex- hibiting the peculiar characteristics of the Doric race in spite of all the embarrassments of an incipient art. They consist of the same yellow variety of tufa as all the others. Peculiarities are the exaggerated thickness of the limbs, the unnatural position of the body, seen partly full-face and partly from the side, and the fixed expression of face, with large mouth and projecting eyes. 1. Quad- riga, in almost complete relief; beside the charioteer ((Enomaus V) remains of two female forms, raising garlands. (There is a similar relief in the Sala delle Terrecotte, on the case to the left of the door.) — 2. Perseus, with helmet and sandals, beheading the Me- dusa, from whom Pegasus rises. The head of the Gorgon retains the appearance usually assigned to it at that period, when painted on walls or vessels to scare the evil-disposed. Behind the hero stands Athene , on whose robe (and also on the ground) are traces of red pigment. — 3. Hercules Melampygos with the Cercopes. — In the cabinet, architectural and sculptured fragments (fine feet) from Selinunto ; iron and lead fastenings from the metopes.

Beyond a number of heterogeneous fragments , we notice the lower halves of two Metopes from a later temple (F), perhaps contemporaneous with the sculptures from the temple of y£gina, now at Munich, i. e. about the beginning of the 5th cent. B. C. They represent a contest between the gods and giants, and are maTked by vigour and fidelity to nature (especially the 2nd metope).

The four *Metopes on the rear-wall date from the period when the art of sculpture had almost reached its highest development

Museum.

PALERMO.

23. Route. 263

(Temple E). They produce an exceedingly picturesque effect between the narrow triglyphs, but although they reveal skill in composition and liveliness of conception, as well as a delicacy of execution in some of the details (the nude portions of the female figures, for example, are inlaid with white marble), they yet fall shoit of the freedom of action and drapery and in the sense of beauty that characterised Attic Art. • — ■ 1 . Hercules slaying Hippolyta ; *2. Zeus and Hera on Mt. Ida; 3. Actaeon and Diana; 4. Athene slaying the giant Enceladus. — On a stand, fragments of cornices with delicate ornamentation.

By the window-wall is another metope, defaced by exposure, and architectural fragments from Selinus , some of which bear traces of colour (dark-red and blue on a white background of stucco). At the end larger fragments from the so-called ^Edicula of Empe- docles at Selinus, a chapel of the 5th cent. B. 0.

To the left of the entrance are three Metopes exhumed in 1891 at Selinunto. In the centre of the room are a Greek inscription of the 6th cent., recounting the gods who granted victory to Selinus, and two Phoenician sarcophagi from Cannita, E. of Palermo.

KfflTO)

The next three rooms contain a portion of the collection of Etruscan sculptures (Museo Etrusco).

We now return to the first court, and ascend the staircase men- tioned at p. 261. (On the landing, halfway up, to the right, is a room with modern forged sculptures from Giardini, near Taormina.)

First Floor. We turn first to the left and ascend a few steps to the Sola del Medio Evo: to the right, fragment of a wooden ceil- ing in the Saracenic-Norman style, referred to the period of the Hohenstaufen on account of the repeatedly recurring eagle; majo- lica tiles (about 1500); in the first glass-case, works in ivory and glass ; in the second case , pottery from Palermo ; in the 3rd case, pottery from Faenza (the largest vessel dates from 1558) and Urbino; at the foot, platters from the Abruzzi; in the 4th case, Palerman pottery of the 17th century. — On the rear-wall, to the left of the entrance, Neapolitan majolica, two inlaid wooden caskets,

264 Route 23. PALERMO. Museum.

miniatures of the 15th cent., and a Byzantine evangeliarium, with psalter, said to have belonged to the Empress Constance. Arabian Antiquities ('oggetti arabi') , the most important being the fine bronze vessels. Magnificent white and gold terracotta vase from Mazzara, placed opposite a wooden door-frame from the convent of La Martorana. Fine vessels of white clay, vessels from the vaulting of the Martorana. Among the bronzes is an astrolabe of 955. In the corner two majolica dishes of the 15th century. At the top a cast of the Arabic inscription (1180) in La Cuba, mentioned at p. 270.

The next two rooms contain early Italian and Netherlandish pictures, modern sculptures, etc., bequeathed by the late Marchesa di Torre Orse, Duchess of Serra di Falco.

We traverse a small room with Asiatic objects and reach the Corkidoio diMezzogiokno, which contains portraits and mementoes of the revolutions of 1848 and 1860, and other periods of Sicilian history. To the right: bust of Juan Fern. Pacheco, Marquis of Vil- lena; portraits of Giacomo Amato (d. 1732) the architect, Serpotta (d. 1732), the sculptor, Marabitti (d. 1797), and farther on of Admiral Gravina, who fought at Trafalgar, and of Ferdinand IV., king of Naples, at a tunny-fishery.

To the right is the Room of the Antique Bronzes. To the right, *Hercules and the Cerynitian hind, a fountain-group, excavated at Pompeii in 1805; to the left, large *Ram, almost ideally lifelike, said to have been at Syracuse since the 11th century. On the walls bronze weapons and vessels, and leaden water-pipes.

We return to the Greek Vases. In the first room , the oldest vases, from Gela, are to the left, those from lower Italy to the right. — The place of origin of the vases in the second room is given on each cabinet. They are partly Corinthian of the 6th cent. B. C. (those to the right, from Selinus), partly Attic (those to the left, from Gela). Among the Attic vases, in the centre of the room, No. 656. Despatch of Triptolemus; 1628. Apollo and Artemis, Bacchus and Ariadne (5th and 4th cent. B. C).

The Corridoio di Tramontana contains prehistoric antiquities found in Sicily, pottery, weapons of the flint period. Etruscan bronzes, including mirror-cases with reliefs and engraved designs (Apollo and Artemis; Leto and Thalia, etc.); large lamp from Selinus, of the Christian period ; weapons and implements ; caduceus from Imachara; catapult projectiles of lead, inscribed with the name of L. Piso, the Roman commander in the Servile War; Phoenician projectiles. — Ivory articles : *'Tessera hospitalis' from Lilybteum, bearing two hands and the inscription 'Token of hospitable alliance between Himilcho Hannibal Chloros and Lycon , son of Diognetes' ; also handles of clay vessels, with the stamps of Greek and Phoe- nician factories. — A door to the left opens on the Collection of Coins. The first case contains impressions in clay of Greek and Phoenician seals , from Temple C at Selinus. In the second case,

Museum. PALERMO. 23. Route. 265

Byzantine and Limoges enamels; antique ornaments, including gold wreaths from tombs, silver fibulae, rings set with stones, Byzantine ring with small figures in niello. — On the other side of the case is an excellent collection of ancient Sicilian coins.

The last room contains ecclesiastical objects ; works in coral from Trapani, of the 17th cent. ; horse-trappings of the Marquis Villena; tapestry of the 17th century. — The chapel at the end of the cor- ridor contains ecclesiastical vestments from the monastery of S. Cita; and the Corridoio di Ponente, Etruscan antiquities from Chiusi.

The Second Floor contains the Picture Gallery. Catalogues are attached to all the doors. Immediately to the left are a few By- zantine pictures: St. John, Lazarus, and Christ in Hades, 12th cent. ; St. John, Sicilian copy, signed 'Petrus Lampardus'. — To the right, in the Corridoio di Ponente, altarpieces of the 14th and 15th cent., the chief of which is a Coronation of the Virgin. Most of them retain their old Gothic frames. — At the end of the corridor to the right, in the room of the patriotic monk, Ugo Bassi, shot at Bologna in 1849, are reproductions of the mosaics in Monreale, from the work of Gravina, whose bust is also placed here. — In the Corridoio di Mezzogiorno : to the right, 85, Antonio Crescenzio (?), Madonna and saints; 165. Oius. Albina(ilSozzo), Madonnabetween angels; 498. Tommaso de Vigilia (15th cent.), S. Maria del Car- mine. To the left : Antonello Crescenzio, rough copy of Raphael's Spasimo; 814. Antonio Crescenzio (?), Madonna and S. Rosalia.

The First Room, the Sala del Romano, principally contains pic- tures by Vincenzo di Pavia (p. 245): 91. Scourging of Christ, with the inscription, 'expensis nationis Lombardorum, 1542'; 88-93. Six small scenes from the youth of Christ , the finest of which is the last, a Presentation in the Temple ; 97. Curious representation of the Madonna as the deliverer of souls from purgatory ; 169. St. Conrad, with predellas; *102. Descent from the Cross, sombre but harmonious in colouring, tender in sentiment, and admirably exe- cuted, Vincenzo's master-piece. 104 d. Coronation of the Virgin, inscribed 'Scuola Messinese' , probably of German origin. 103. St. Thomas Aquinas , victorious over the heretic Averrhoes , and surrounded by a numerous congregation, by Antonello da Saliba.

The Second Room , the Sala del Novelli , is chiefly hung with works of that painter, the last great Sicilian master (p. 245), of whose style they afford a good illustration : 120. Portrait of him- self; 110. Madonna enthroned, with saints; 112. Communion of Mary Magdalene; 113. SS. Anna and Mary; 114. Delivery of Peter from prison. 194-196. Remains of a fresco from the Spedale Grande; 195. Coloured sketch of the same. Among Novelli's fa- vourite and frequently recurring types are remarkably tall and almost exaggerated forms, especially in the case of female figures, but in his delineation of characters advanced in life he rivals the best masters of the Neapolitan school.

266 Route 23. PALERMO. 8. Domenico.

The gem of the collection, a work of the highest merit, is pre- served under glass in the Gabinetto Malvagna , adjoining the Sala del Romano : 59. A small **Altarpiece with wings, or trip- tych, of the School of Van Eyck.

This picture would not be unworthy of John van Eyck himself, but the clear colouring and the miniature-like execution point to some later master. At present it is described as an early work of Mabuse (1470- 1532). The period thus selected is probably right, but the types of the heads point rather to Jacob Komelissen, an important Dutch painter, who has only of late become as well known as he deserves to be. When the shutters are closed the spectator is presented with a scene of Adam and Eve in a richly peopled Paradise. Adam's head is very naturalistic, but the figure is not inaccurately drawn. In the background is an angel driv- ing the pair out at the gate of Paradise. On the wings being opened, we perceive in the central scene a Madonna in a red robe, enthroned on a broad Gothic choir-stall, with her flowing hair covered with a white cloth. In her lap is the Infant Christ ; on each side of her are angels sing- ing and playing on instruments, beautiful and lifelike figures. On the left wing is represented St. Catharine, on the right wing St. Dorothea, the former holding up a richly executed ring, the latter with white and red roses in her lap, and both with angels at their side. The delicate execution of the trinkets on the drapery of the female figures and the pleasing land- scape in the background as far as the extreme distance are really admirable. This is one of the very finest works of the early Flemish school. It formerly belonged to the Principe di Malvagna, and was presented to the museum as a 'Durer' The brown case, covered with leather and adorned with Gothic ornaments, is probably coeval with the picture itself.

This cabinet also contains: Garofalo, Madonna; Correggio (?), Head of Christ fa sketch).

The Third Room (Scuole Diverse) contains nothing of much importance. To the right : 202. Vanno Pisani, Madonna; 73. Barth. deCamulio, Madonna (1346) ; 10, 14,16. Fr. Guard i, Views in Venice ; 536. Luca Giordano, St. Michael; 535. Fil. Paladini, St. Michael; 532,534. Vasari, Manna ; 538. Mario <2eJ Pino, Conversion of St. Paul.

The corridor to the left contains engravings, and the rooms be- hind frescoes by Tomrnaso de Vigilia (p. 265).

The ViaMonteleone leads from the Piazza dell' Olivella (p. 260) to the church of S. Domenico (PI. 22; D, 4), erected in 1640, and capable of accommodating 12,000 people. It contains several good pictures by Novelli and Vincenzo di Pavia, and the tombs and mon- uments of Meli, Piazzi, Scina, Novelli, Ventura, Serradifalco, Rug- gero Settimo, Amari, and numerous other eminent Sicilians. On the left corner pillar of the chapel to the right of the choir is a very tasteful relief of the Madonna by Ant. Gagini , and to the right a Pieta of his school. — In the Via Bambinai behind the church is the Oratorio del SS. Rosario (key at No. 16), with decorations in stucco by Serpotta, and an altarpiece by *Van Dyck: Madonna del Rosario. It also contains some good paintings by Novelli.

In the neighbourhood is the church of S. Cita (Pi. 17 . e, 5), erected in 1586, to the right of the choir of which is a large altar- frame by the Gagini (1535). On the left, beside the side-entrance are three coloured reliefs by Ant. Gagini, representing St. Antony

La Zisa. PALERMO. 23. Route. 267

with the Centaur, St. Jerome , and (above) a Madonna. — In the side-street to the left, behind S. Cita, is the Oratorio, with line stucco decoration by Serpotta. The seats are inlaid with mother-of- pearl; and at the table, near the entrance , is a large slab of agate. The altar-piece (II Rosario) is by C. Maratta. — In the narrow street farther to the W. is the church of 8. Niccolo dei Greci, with Greek 'Iconostasis'.

Opposite the main portal of S. Cita rises a tine Norman arch. Farther on in the Via Squarcialupo is the church of SS. Annunziata (1345), with a Renaissance facade of 1591 ; admission in the shop to the right. — Then S. Qiorgio dei Genovesi (PL 30 ; B, 5), a fine Renais- sance church of 1591, in which the arches of the nave are each borne by four columns. In the first chapel to the right: L. Giordano, II Ros- ario ; at the high-altar, Palma Vecchio, St. George ; above the en- trance, Paladino, St. Luke. — Close by in the Via Principe Scordia is a statue of Florio (PL 103; E, 5), the industrialist (d. 1892), erected in 1875. In the neighbourhood is the English Church (PI. 76a; F, 4).

Crossing the Piazza del Castello , we reach the harbour of La Cata (PL D, 5; p. 249), adjoining the Fort Castellammare (PI. D, E, 5, 6), which was almost entirely demolished in 1860 , and the little church of Pie di Grotta, built in 1565 above a grotto now en- closed by an ornamental arch. • — The ViaS. Sebastiano leads to the church of 5. Maria Nuova (PI. 51 ; D, 5), restored in the 16th cen- tury. The vestibule recalls that of S. Maria della Catena, and the interior is very pleasingly decorated in the rococo style.

Leaving the Porta d'Ossuna (PI. D , E, 2) and following the Corso Alberto Amedeo to the right , we soon reach, on the left, the Catacombs (PI. E, 1, 2) discovered in 1785, probably of pre-Chris- tian date, but now destitute of monuments.

Continuing to follow the Corso Alberto Amedeo to the Corso Olivuzza, we here take the Noce tramway (see p. 247) to the Piazza Olivuzza, a few yards before which is the celebrated Villa Butera, now the Villa Florio (PL F, 1), with its fine gardens. In the Piazza itself is the Villa Serradifalco (inaccessible), also distinguished for it luxuriant vegetation, now much neglected.

The Via Normanni leads to the left from the Corso Olivuzza to the Piazza Zisa, with the old Norman chateau of La Zisa , now belonging to the Marchese di S. Giovanni (reached from the Piazza Olivuzza by the Via "Whitaker in 5 min.; approach from the royal Palace, see p. 250). The only remains of the old building, which was erected by William L, are a covered fountain with water descending over marble steps under dilapidated honey -combed vaulting , and some vaulting with pigeon-holes on the upper floor (custodian next door, to the right; adm. 1 fr.). — To the left of La Zisa is a good winehouse.

268

24. Environs of Palermo.

a. Acquasanta. Monte Pellegrino. The Favorita.

Distances. From the Piazza Marina to Acquasanta, about 13A M. (tramway, see p. 247). — From the Porta S. Giorgio to the foot of Monte Pellegrino 2 M. (one-horse carr. l'/2fr.); thence to the top i1/* hr- (bridle-path; donkey from the town 2'/2 fr., with as much more for the attendant; omnibus from the Piazza Bologni, see p. 247). — From the Porta Macqueda to the Favorita 3»/2-4 M. (omnibus to the Porta Leoni and S. Lorenzo see p. 217).

The Stkadone delBorgo(P1.E, F, 5), the "broad road that leaves Palermo by the Porta S. Giorgio (PI. E, 5) and skirts the sea, forks at the Piazza Ucciardone (PL G, H, 5 ; straight on to the Monte Pellegrino and the Favorita, see below). We take the branch to the right and follow the Stradone del Molo and its continuation, the Via dell' Acquasanta, to the N., past the interesting old English Cemetery, on the right (custodian 15-20 c), to the village of Acquasanta (Ristor. di Paola), frequented in summer for sea- bathing (p. 247). A few min. from the tramway-terminus is the entrance to the *Villa Belmonte (custodian 30-50 c.) , whose fine grounds stretch up the slopes of the Monte Pellegrino; fine *View from the top.

From Acquasanta to Valdese, via Arenella, see p. 270.

The continuation of the Stradone del Borgo again forks at the Piazza Giacchery (PI. H, I, 5), beside the Carceri or prison. The Via Sampoli leads to the left to the Favorita (p. 269); the Via del Monte Pellegrino (PL I, 5, 6) to the right to the foot of that moun- tain, the Punta di Bersaglio, which is within 1/4 M. of Falde, the omnibus-terminus (p. 247). Rack-and-pinion railway under con- struction.

The * Monte Pellegrino (2065 ft.), the peculiar shape of which renders it easily recognisable from a great distance, is an isolated mass of limestone rock , at one time an island and still separated by the plain of the Conca d'Oro from the other moun- tains near the coast. On the E. side it rises abruptly from the sea, and on the "W. side slopes more gently towards the Conca d'Oro. Down to the 15th cent, the mountain was clothed with underwood. In B. C. 247-45 Hamilcar Barca settled on the mountain with his soldiers and their families in order to keep the Roman garrison of Panormus in check, and corn was then cultivated here on the Heircte. The fissured cliffs are by no means so bare as they appear to be from a distance. Deposits of soil have been formed in the clefts by the gradual disintegration of the rocks, and on these flourish various kinds of grass and herbs, affording pasture to large herds of cattle and goats during the greater part of the year. Numerous dwarf- palms cling to the steeper declivities, while the lower slopes are occupied by almond and carob- trees. During the quail-hunting season the mountain is enlivened by sportsmen, especially at nieht

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mistaken. It is steep at first but afterwards "becomes easier. In about l3/4 hr. we reach an overhanging rock of the summit of the moun- tain, which may also be reached, though not without difficulty, from the opposite side, under which is the Qrotto of St. Rosalia, now converted into a church (dwelling of the 'proposto' and priests on the left; bell on the upper floor). St. Rosalia was according to tradition the daughter of Duke Sinibaldo and niece of the Nor- man King William II., the Good, and while in the bloom of youth fled hither from motives of piety. Her bones were discovered in the cavern in 1664, and conveyed to Palermo. Their presence at once banished the plague then raging, and from that time St. Ro- salia has been the patron saint of the city. The grotto is visited by numerous worshippers, especially on Whitmonday.

The small decorated cavern in which the holy maiden performed her devotions is shown by candle-light ; in front of it is a recumbent Statue of the Saint by the Florentine Gregorio Tedeschi , with sumptuously gilded robes. 'The head and hands of white marble, if not faultless in style, are at least so natural and pleasing that one can hardly help ex- pecting to see the saint breathe and move.1 (Goethe.) — The water which constantly trickles down the sides is carried off in leaden gutters.

Bread and wine may be obtained in the cottage 1 min. farther on to the right (dear; bargain beforehand). A steep foot-path opposite ascends to the (20 min.) Telegrafo on the summit of the mountain, which commands an admirable **View of the beautiful basin around Palermo, the numerous headlands of the N. coast, the Lipari Islands, and the distant ^Etna. — A path leading straight on from the cottages (and joined by a rough path from the Telegrafo) brings us in 20 min. to a small temple on the N.E. side of the mountain, with a colossal but headless statue of the saint, twice struck by lightning ; on the ground lie the two heads. *View hence towards the sea.

Good walkers may cross a stretch of smooth pasture-land, to the W. of the houses (enquire for the beginning of the path) , and then descend the Valle dei Porci by very difficult goat-paths towards the S. W. direct to the (3/4 hr.) Favorita , which we reach beside two round temples (to the chateau, straight on); others will prefer to retrace their steps and descend by the same path.

In the Conca d'Oro, at the base of Monte Pellegrino on the W. side, and 4 M. from the Porta Macqueda, is situated the royal chateau of La Favorita, surrounded by numerous villas of the aristocracy of Palermo. This beautiful country-residence was erected by Ferdinand IV. in the Chinese style, and is surrounded by shady walks and extensive grounds (open to the public ; omnibus to the Leoni Gate, whence the chateau is reached by the main walk through the park in 3/4 hr.; pleasant drive). Splendid *View from the roof. From the chateau a walk of about 8 min. to S. Lorenzo, whence we may return by omnibus , past (V2 ar0 the Villa Sofia, with a beautiful garden, the property of Mr. R. Whitaker, containing a collection of orchids (adm. usually granted on Mon. and Frid. on application to the director).

270 Route 24. LA CUBA. Environs

Travellers interested in agriculture may now visit the lstituto Agrario, founded by the minister Carlo Cottone (p. 260).

This excursion may be pleasantly extended to the beautiful Bay of Mondello, with a sandy beach admirably adapted for bathing (Valdese Inn, near the pine-tree, bread and wine), passing Palavicini, where a small art-collection in the villa of Prince Scalea may be visited on Mon. from 2 to 6 p.m. The village of Mondello lies IV2 M, farther on, but is seldom visited. — A picturesque footpath leads from the Valdese Inn by the beach, skirting the Mte. Pellegrino, to (472 M.) Acquasanta (p. 268).

b. La Cuba. Monreale. S. Martino.

Distance to Monreale about 41/2 M. Tkamway (p. 247) from the Piazza Vittoria as far as (2y2 M.) La Rocca, where the road begins to ascend (fare 20 c). Carriages are always to be had here (one-horse carr. to Monreale l'/2, there and back 2l/z fr., comp. p. 247). The ascent of the hill thence is a pleasant walk of 3/4 hr. — The following tour , occupying 4-5 hrs. exclusive of the halt in Monreale, is also recommended. Take the tramway to Porrazzi (p. 247; No. 6), walk by the Parco road to a point above the Villa delle Qrazie (fine views), thence strike through the Oreto valley and ascend to Monreale. Return by tramway from La Rocca.

Those who purpose proceeding from Monreale to S. Martino (p. 272), about 3 M. farther (steep track, suitable for walkers only), will do well to take a supply of provisions with them. Donkey at Monreale (not always to be had), 272-372 fr. A good carriage-road leads from S. Martino back to Rocca via Boccadifalco (p. 272). Those who are not afraid of the un- comfortable descent to Monreale are advised to make this whole excursion in the reverse direction. Carriage and pair (good but hilly road) from Palermo to <S. Martino via Boccadifalco , including a digression to Baida (p. 273), about 15 fr. and fee; carr. much cheaper at Rocca (bargaining advisable).

Porta Nuova (PI. C, D, 1), see p. 252. The perfectly straight prolongation of the Via Vittorio Emanuele , called the Corso Cala- taflmi, leads to Monreale. On the right is situated the extensive poor-house (Albergo de' Poveri).

A little farther on, ahout V2 M. from the gate, on the left, is a cavalry-barrack , in the court of which is the old chateau of La Cuba. (Visitors apply to the sentinel and walk in.) On the frieze is a now illegible Arabic inscription, from which it is conjectured, that the building was erected by William II. in 1180. Of the once splendid decorations of the interior nothing now remains but a few blackened remains of a honeycombed vaulting and arabesques in a small court. The palace was once surrounded by an extensive park with fish-ponds. A pavilion once belonging to it is no w on the opposite side of the street in the orange-garden of the Cavaliere Napoli (farther on, No. 421, beyond the street leading to the Oappuccini) , and is called La Cubola (Decamerone, V. 6) ; admission on ringing (fee).

The Strada di Pindemonte , which diverges to the Tight about 250 paces farther on, leads to the (V3 M.) Convento de' Cappuccini, in the subterranean corridors of which are preserved the mummified bodies of wealthy inhabitants of Palermo. This method of inter- ment is now prohibited by government. This sad, but not un- interesting spectacle should be seen by the curious. (The route hence to La Zisa , 1/3 M. , is by the Via de' Oipressi, and then by the first road to the left; see p. 267.)

of Palermo. MONREALE. 24. Route. 271

On the left side of the Monreale road we next pass the Giar- dino d'Acclimazione , laid out in 1861 for agricultural purposes. On the same side , 1^2 M. from the Porta Nuova, are the iron gate and Swiss lodge (No. 422) at the entrance to the charming *Villa Tasca, the property of Conte Tasca, one of the first systematic farmers of Sicily, who possesses an experimental station here. The fine park is surrounded by extensive kitchen-gardens, which must first be traversed by visitors (straight on from the road, then to the right; carriages may drive to the entrance proper of the villa; 30-50 c. to the custodian on leaving). The garden, which is almost tropical in the luxuriance of its flora, contains numerous palm- trees. The small temple in the garden commands an admirable * View of the Oreto valley and Monreale.

The group of houses at the base of the height of Monreale is called La Rocca (tramway -terminus ; Tratt. de' Fiori). The road, constructed by the celebrated Abp. Testa of Monreale, ascends in windings to the 'royalmount' (1150ft.), on which in 11 74 William II. founded a Benedictine abbey, and in 1174-89 erected the famous —

** Cathedral of Monreale, around which a town (Albergo Pietro Novelli, tolerable) of 16,500 inhab. has sprung up since the sec- ond archbishopric in the island was transferred hither. The beg- gars in the town are often very importunate.

The church is in the form of a Latin cross, 334 ft. long and 131 ft. wide, with three apses. The outside of the choir is especi- ally beautiful. The entrance is flanked by two square towers. The magnificent portal possesses admirable *Bronze Doors dating from 1186, executed by 'Bonannus Civis Pisanus', and adorned with reliefs from sacred history. The bronze doors of the side-portals are by Barisano (p. 197) and date from about the same period. The edifice was seriously damaged by a fire in 1811, but has been well restored ; the cost of the handsome timber-work was defrayed by King Lewis I. of Bavaria.

"Interior. The pointed vaulting of the nave is supported by eighteen columns of granite. The transept , approached by five steps, is borne by four pillars. The pointed vaulting is constructed quite in the Arabian style.

The * Mosaics with which the walls are entirely covered occupy an area of 70,400 sq. ft., and consist of three different classes: scenes from the Old Testament (prophecies of the Messiah), from the life of the Saviour, and from the lives of the Apostles. The nave contains Old Testa- ment subjects down to the Wrestling of Jacob with the Angel, in two rows of twenty tableaux. Each aisle contains nine, and each transept fifteen scenes from the history of Christ. On the arches of the transept are subjects from the life of SS. Peter and Paul. In the tribune is the bust of Christ (with the inscription , /. Xq. <5 naviovQU'ibiQ) \ below it a Madonna in Trono with two angels and the Apostles at the side ; under these are fourteen saints. In the niches at the sides Peter and Paul. Above the royal throne is pourtrayed King William in the act of receiving the crown direct from Christ (not from the pope !) \ above the archiepiscopal seat he is represented as offering a view of the cathedral to the Virgin. — In the right transept are the tombs of William I. and William II. The monument of the former is a sarcophagus of porphyry, like those in the Cathedral at Palermo ; that of the latter was erected in 1575. — The N.

272 Route 2d. S. MARTINO. Environs

aisle contains the Cappella del Crocefisso, of 1690, with fine wood-carvings from the history of the Passion. In the S. aisle is the Cappella di S. Benedetto, with reliefs in marble of the 18th century. These chapels are opened by the verger (1 fr., including ascent to the roof).

The visitor should not omit to ascend to the roof of the cathedral for the sake of the "View it affords. The entrance to the staircase is in a corner at the beginning of the S. aisle (172 steps to the top).

Adjoining the cathedral is the former Benedictine Monastery, which William supplied with monks from La Cava (entrance by No. 33, the large central door in the piazza which lies in front of the church; adm. 1/2 **•)• Of the original building nothing is now left except the remarkably beautiful *Cloisters, the pointed arches of which are adorned with mosaics and supported by 216 columns in pairs; the *Capitals are all different, and the richly ornamented shafts also vary (date 1200). The 9th column from the E., on the N. side, bears a mason's inscription of 1228. The S. side of the cloisters is overshadowed by the ruins of an ancient monastery-wall, with pointed arches. The garden commands a delightful *View of the valley towards Palermo. The fragrance of the orange-blossom here in spring is almost overpowering. The modern part of the monastery (now fitted up as schools), which we first reach from the piazza, con- tains a handsome marble staircase adorned with a picture by Pietro Novelli (St. Benedict and the heads of the Benedictine order ; p . 245).

From Monreale a steep path to the right (Le Scale), with an admirable *View of the Oreto valley, Palermo, and the sea (best towards evening), ascends in ll/t hr. to the top of the hill which is crowned by II Casteliaccio, a deserted fort (10 min. to the right of the highest point of the path) , commanding a still more extensive view. "We then descend to the suppressed Benedictine monastery of S. Martino , founded by Gregory the Great in the 6th cent. , and affording another fine *View. Handsome entrance-hall. The monastery is now occupied by an agricultural institution. The vegetation here in spring, including numerous fine orchids, is very luxuriant.

The church contains a fresco by Vincenzo Romano and fine choir-stalls of 1557. With the library of the monastery is connected the reminiscence of the extraordinary historical forgeries of the Abbate Giuseppe Vella, who had founded a history of Sicily on a forged Arabic MS., but was detected by Hager of Milan , the Orientalist, in 1794. — Wine is sold at the houses above the monastery.

From San Martino we descend in 1 hr. (up l»/2 hr.) through a narrow and somewhat monotonous valley to Boccadifalco , pictur- esquely situated among rocks. A carriage-road also leads hither direct from Palermo, beginning at the Porta Nuova and passing the Capuchin monastery (p. 270) and the village of Altar ello di Baida, containing remains of Mimnermum, a palace founded by Roger. A pleasant and picturesque road (V2 nT-) leads from Boccadifalco along the heights to La Rocca (p. 271). Martino is about 4 M. from La Rocca. An equally pleasant footpath leads up the hillside to Monreale. — Another fine *Route, commanding a splendid view

of Palermo. S. MARIA DI GESU. 2d. Route. 273

of the plain and the sea, leads N.W. from Boccadifalco to the former convent of Baida, founded by Manfred Chiaramonte in 1388 for the Cistercians, and afterwards occupied by Franciscan Minorites. Here in the 10th cent, lay Baidha ('the white'), a Saracenic village which was connected with Palermo by a row of houses. The terrace affords a fine view. In the vicinity is the not easily accessible stalactite cavern of Quattro Arie. Farther on, by the Passo di Rigano, we reach Noce, whence a tramway-line (p. 247) runs to Palermo, crossing the Piazza Olivuzza. Visit to the Villa Butera and La Zisa, see p. 267.

c. Farco.

The high-road to Corleone, leaving Palermo at the Piazza dell' Indipendenza (Strada dei Pisani, PL 0, 1 ; tramway, see p. 247), leads past Porrazzi and Portella to the (2^2 M.) Ponte delle Orazie over the Oreto, and then ascends to Orazia Vecchia. Thence a picturesque road leads to the S.W. to (6 M.) the little town of —

Farco, near which William II. enclosed extensive hunting- parks. The abbey-church of S. Maria di Altofonte, founded by Frederick II. of Aragon , contains a relief of the Madonna (1328; above an altar on the right). The view of Palermo from a little beyond Parco is one of the most beautiful in Sicily.

A road, commanding magnificent views (short-cuts for walkers usually impassable after rain) leads from Parco through the deep fertile valley of the Oreto to (iy2 hr.) Monreale (p. 271).

Piana dei Oreci, 6 M. farther on, was an Albanian colony, found- ed in 1488, and at certain festivals handsome costumes are still seen here.

Proceeding to the E. from Grazia Vecchia (see above) and skirt- ing the foot of the hill, we return to Palermo via the Villa Orazia, Falsomiele, and the Corso dei Mille (PL A, 4). This is the so-called 'Giro delle Grazie'.

A little heyond Falsomiele a road ascends to the right to S. Maria di Gesii (see below) , a visit to which may thus be combined with that to Parco by travellers whose time is limited.

d. S. Maria di Gesu. Favara. Campo Sant' Orsola.

One-horse carriage to (3 M.) S. Maria di Gesu, 2>/2 fr. The best route from the centre of Palermo is by the Porta S. Antonino (PI. B, 3, 4) and the Via Oreto; from the Piazza dell' Indipendenza by the Via Filicuzza (P1.A,B,2).

The road crosses the Oreto and gradually ascends to —

*S. Maria di Gesu (165 ft. above the sea), formerly a Minorite monastery, which commands one of the finest views of Palermo, with the Monte Pellegrino in the background, and is a favourite point with artists and photographers. The cemetery of the monastery con- tains the burial-places of many Palermo families. If the iron gate above, to the left, be locked, we skirt the outside of the cemetery to the left to the whitewashed loggia of a conspicuous chapel (with the remains of mural paintings of the 15th cent.), which is the finest point of view.

Baedeker. Italy III. 11th Edition. \Q

274 Route 24. LA FA VARA. Environs

In the Monte Griffone, s/4 M. from S. Maria di Gesii, is the Grolta de* Giganti, or di S. Giro (from the neighbouring church), a cave well known to palaeontologists as a fertile source of fossil bones, which it still contains in great quantities. The cave is very dirty. Children at the entrance offer bones and teeth for sale. Near it are three arches of some mediaeval building.

The road to the village of Belmonle or Mezzagno ascends gradually, affording a succession of fine views. Halfway it passes the village of Gi- bilrossa , where a monument, erected in 1882, commemorates the fact that Garibaldi's camp was pitched here in I860, before the capture of Palermo. With this excursion may be combined the attractive ascent of the Monte Grifone (2550 ft.), whence we may descend to Belmonte or Misilmeri (p. 289).

Not far from the above-mentioned Grotta de' Giganti, to the left of the road and close to the village of Brancaccio, are the remains of the Saracenic Norman chateau of La Favara the magnificence of which has been highly extolled by Arabian and Jewish travellers of the middle ages, and where Frederick II. held his court. The build- ing , which has been built up on two sides , is now called the Castello di Mare Dolce, from a pool at the base of Mte. Griffone, whence a water-channel has been constructed past the Favara to Brancaccio. From Brancaccio we may return to Palermo over the Ponte dell' Ammiraglio (see below) and thence by the Corso dei Mille (PI. A, 4).

The Via de' Vespri (PI. A, 2, 3) leads in about V4 hr. from the Porta S. Agata (PI. B, 3) to the Campo Sant' Orsola or Campo di S. Spirito, the old cemetery, laid out in 1782. (The new cemetery lies on the N.E. side of M. Pellegrino.) In 1173 Walter of the Mill founded a Cistercian monastery here, and near it, on 31st March, 1282, began the massacre of the Sicilian Vespers, during which the bell of S. Giovanni degli Eremiti was tolled. The church of S. Spirito, which was thoroughly restored in 1882, has thick pillars resembling those in the English churches of the early middle ages, and pointed arches also diverging entirely from the usual type. Near the church is a stone commemorating the Vespers.

e. Bagheria. Solunto.

Railway to Bagheria (from the main railway station, see p. 247), in Vinr (fares 1 fr. 60, 1 fr. 15. or 75 c); to S. Flavia (slow trains only), fares 1 fr. 85, 1 fr. 30, 85 c. The excursion to Solunto and Bagheria may be accomplished on foot in 5 hrs.; that to Solunto alone from S. Flavia in 2 hrs. The two excursions may be combined by proceeding direct from Villa Valguarnera to (V2 hr.) S. Flavia (seat in a carriage usually to be obtained). Travellers may then proceed to Cefalu Catania, or Girgenti. — Carriage and pair to Bagheria and Soluntum in 6-8 hrs., 15-20fr., carr. with one-horse 10 fr., a charming drive. Luncheon should be carried with the party.

A short distance from the town the railway crosses the Oreto, beyond which, to the left below us, we observe the lofty arch of the now abandoned Ponte dell' Ammiraglio , constructed in 1113 by the admiral Georgios Antiochenos. Immediately ad- joining it are the ruins (completely concealed by other buildings) of the most ancient Norman church in Sicily, San Giovanni dei Leprosi, fomided in 1071 by Roger. Here, in B.C. 251, the consul

of Palermo. SOLUNTUM. 24. Route. 275

Metellus defeated the Carthaginians, and captured 120 elephants. In the neighbouring bay the French admiral Duquesne nearly anni- hilated the united Dutch and Spanish fleets in 1673. In the fertile coast-district the Saracens once cultivated the sugar-cane. On the right rises the Monte Griffone (p. 274).

Between (5 M.) Fic.arazzelli and (6 M.J Ficarazzi continuous *View to the left of the sea and Monte Pellegrino.

8 M. Bagheria, or Bagaria (Albergo Verdone, near the middle of the main street , with good trattoria) , a country - town with 11,600 inhab., contains many villas of Sicilian nobles, now deserted. We turn to the 'right from the station, and then to the left, by the long main street, towards a portico of three arches, through which we pass. A little farther on we pass through a gateway, with weatherbeaten and unattractive sculptures of last century. Straight on is the lower entrance to the Villa Palagonfy, which like the Villa Butera, contains a few fantastic works of art. If this entrance be closed we proceed to the right round the building to the upper entrance. Opposite this latter is the road leading to the Villa Val- guarnera, which merits a visit for the sake of the magnificent *View from the terrace and from the adjacent Montagnuola, a hill reached in about 10 min. from the garden (fee 30-50 c). The station of S. Flavia lies about IV4 M. to the E. from the entrance to the villa.

10 M. Santa Flavia. Phoenician tombs, probably of the Cartha- ginian period, were discovered here in 1864, to the right of the railway. — (Journey hence to Girgenti, see R. 27.)

Leaving the station, we turn to the right (the first house on the left is an Osteria, where good wine may be obtained, and where lunch may be taken). In 1 min. more we cross the line to the right and in 4 min. reach a red house on the left, inscribed 'Antichita di Solunto', the custodian of which acts as guide. "We traverse a garden, and then follow a steep and sunny road leading in 1/2 hr. to the ruins of Solus, Soloeis , or Soluntum, situated on the eastmost hill of the Monte Catalfano. The town was originally a Phoenician settlement, but the ruins date from Roman times. The name of the present town, which lies on the coast, 2 1/4 M. farther to the S., is Solanto. Nearly the whole of the ancient paved causeway, ascending the hill in zig- zags, has been brought to light. "We turn to the left at a carob-tree (Ital. carrubo), and then see to the right the ancient main street. The town was very regularly laid out, the streets running from E. to "W. and N. to S., and crossing each other at right angles. A narrow passage was left between the backs of the rows of houses to allow the water to escape from the hill , which is so steep as to have necessitated the construction of flights of steps in some of the streets. The internal arrangement of several of the houses is still recognisable. Part of the colonnade of a large house has been re-erected by Prof. Cavallari , and is now named the 'Gymnasium'. Though the ruins are scanty, admirable *Views are enjoyed from

18*

276 Route 24. USTICA.

the top of the hill, embracing the bay of Palermo and the Conca d'Oro to the W., and to the E., the coast to a point beyond Cefalu and the Madonia Mts. (p. 308), snow-clad in winter. The steep promontory to the N. is Cape Zafferana ; on the shore below lie S. Elia and Porticella. Towards the E., where the Tonnara di Sdlanto (tunny-fishery, p. 290) is situated, lay the harbour of the town.

Good walkers may descend the steep hill to Bagheria either by a direct and easy footpath from S. Flavia, or round the promontory and through the village of Aspra, which lies on the sea.

Farther up the brook Bagheria (the ancient Eleutheros), i M. to the E. of Portella di Mare, once lay a large Phoenician town, afterwards a Saracenic stronghold, called Kasr-Sdd, now the village of Cannita. The Grseco-Phcenician sarcophagi of the museum of Palermo were found here.

From Palermo an excursion may be made by steamboat in 4 hrs. (every Wed., fare 71/2 fr.) to the island of TJstica, 37'/2 M. distant, and 10 M. in circumference. Its principal mountains are the Falconiera on the E. and the Quadriga di Mezzo (720 ft.) to the W. The island was colonised by the Phoenicians in ancient times , and was subsequently taken by the Romans. During the middle ages it was but thinly peopled. As lately as 1762 the whole population was murdered or carried off by pirates. The number of inhab. is now 1600, many of whom are prison- ers sentenced to banishment here ^Domicilio coatto'). The caverns are interesting to geologists. Fossil conchylia are also found in the island.

25. From Palermo to Trapani.

121 M. Railway in 7-8 hrs. (fares 22 fr. 5, 15 fr. 45, 9 fr. 95 c). To Alcamo - Calatifimi (the station for Segesta) , 52 M. , in 3'/4 hrs. (9 fr. 50,

6 fr. 65, 3 fr. 40 c); to Castelvetrano (station for Selinunto), 75 M., in 4V2-5l/4 brs. (13 fr. 70, 9 fr. 60, 4 fr. 85 c). By starting with the early train (about 5 a.m.) from Palermo, travellers may easily visit the ruins of Se- gesta and then proceed in the afternoon to Castelvetrano or return to Palermo. If provisions are not taken from Palermo arrangements should be made to dine at Calataflmi , whence a diligence in connection with the train starts about IV2 hr. before the departure of the latter.

The Steamers of the Florio-Rubattino Co. (Palermo -Siracusa, Costa Sud, line) leave Palermo on Fridays about 9 a.m. , and arrive at Tra- pani about 3.30 p.m. ; they start again at 3 a.m. on Saturday, reaching Marsala at 5 a.m. (stay of 1 hr.), Mazzara at 6. 45 a.m. (3/t hr.), Sciacca 10.30 a.m. (1 hr.), Porto Empedocle (for Girgenti) 2.30 p.m. (1 hr.), Palma 4. 30 p.m. (1 hr.), and Licata 7.10p.m.; the journey is continued hence on Sunday at 4 a.m.; Terranova 5.20 a.m. (3/4 hr.); Scoglitti 8 a.m. (lhr.); Pozzallo 12. 15 p.m. (l'/2hr.); arrival at Syracuse 7 p.m. — In the reverse direction: departure from Syracuse, Mon. 11 p.m. ; from Pozzallo, Tues. 5 a.m.; from Scoglitti 9 a.m.; from Terranova 11a.m.; Licata 1.30 p.m. ; Palma 4 p.m. ; Porto Empedocle 6. 20 p.m. ; Sciacca Wed. 1 a. m. ; Mazzara 5 a. m. ; Marsala 8 a.m. ; Trapani 1 p.m. ; arrival in Palermo

7 p.m. — As, however, the S. coast of Sicily is difficult to navigate, the punctuality of the steamers cannot be depended on. — The steamboat for Tunis , mentioned at p. 380, leaving Palermo on Tues. at 10 p.m., also touches at Trapani (Wed. 4 a.m.), and at Marsala, which it reaches on Wed. at 4 p.m.

The train starts from the principal station (PI. A, 4), but also stops at the (372 M.) station in the Via Lolli (comp. p. 246). It then first runs towards the N., traversing the Conca d'Oro. To the left are the Monti Billiemi, to the right the Monte Pellegrino. Beyond (7i/2 M.) S. Lorenzo the train turns to the W. and enters a mountainous district. 10 M. Tommaso Natale ; 11 M. Sferraca-

ALCAMO. 25. Route. 277

vallo (tunnel); 11*- fa M. JsoZa deWe Femmine. The railway now skirts the coast for some distance. To the left lie (14 M.) Capaci and (17 M.) Carini. The latter, picturesquely situated near the sea, was formerly the free Sicanian town of Hyceara, whence in 415 the Athenians are said to have carried off the celebrated cour- tezan La'is, then a girl of twelve years. The train then runs at the base of Monte Orso (2885 ft.), which rises on the left. — 24 M. Cinisi - Terrasini ; both the villages lie at some distance from the station. Beyond (31 M.) Zucco the train crosses the generally dry bed of the Nocella and reaches —

33 M. Partinico (620 ft.). The town, with upwards of 20,000 inhab. , a trade in wine and oil, and several manufactories, lies considerably to the left of the station.

Beyond Partinico the train passes through a tunnel and crosses the Oallinella, a little above its mouth. — 38 M. Trappeto. — 39Y2 M. Balestrate , on a spacious bay, bounded on the E. by the Capo di Rama and on the W. by the Capo S. Vito. The train runs near the sea , and crosses the Fiume S. Bartolommeo , which is formed by the union of the Fiume Freddo and the Fiume Caldo.

4572 M. Castellammare (officially, Castellammare del Qolfo). The town (13,000 inhab.), which was once the seaport of Segesta and still carries on a considerable trade, lies 3 M. from the railway, near the mouth of the Fiume S. Bartolommeo. Beyond Castellammare the train quits the coast, and ascends the valley of the Fiume Freddo towards the S. Three tunnels.

52 M. Alcamo - Calatafimi. The station lies between Alcamo and Calatafimi, about 5 M. distant from each. Vehicles from each town are generally in waiting at the station ('posto' in the diligence 1^2 fr-; in other vehicles V-fa-1 fr.) ; to meet the trains the carriages leave the towns about I1/2 hr. before the arrival of the latter.

Alcamo (835 ft. ; Locanda delta Fortuna, tolerable ; Albergo di Segesta, Corso Sei Aprile 29, very unpretending; *Cafe opposite the post-office), a town of Arabian origin, with 34,300 inhabitants. In 1233, after an insurrection, Frederick II. substituted a Christian for the Saracenic population, but the town still has a somewhat Oriental appearance. There are , however , a few mediaeval and Renaissance remains , such as the portal of the church of S. Tom- maso ; the campanile of the Cathedral, which contains a Crucifixion by Ant. Gagini ; Renaissance sculptures in the church of S. Fran- cesco ; and a Madonna by Rozzolone in the church deiMinori. Above the town rises the Mte.Bonifato, or delta Madonna deW Autu {Alto; 2705 ft.), whence a magnificent prospect of the Bay of Castellammare is obtained. The house pointed out here as that of Ciullo d' Alcamo, the earliest Sicilian poet (13th cent.), is really of much later origin.

Calatafimi — Inns. Albeego Centeale , Corso Garibaldi , not very clean, cuisine mediocre; Albekgo Gaeibaldi. —Trattoria: Stella <f Italia, unpretending.

Carriages, Horses, etc., for Segesta at Salvalore Denari's; carriage

278 Route 25. SEGESTA. From Palermo

with 4 seats 15 fr., horse, mule, or donkey 4-5 fr. These may he order- ed hy telegraph to meet the train. It is hest to take the diligence or a carriage to Calataflmi (p. 277) and to ride thence to Segesta, as the last very fatiguing part of the route is impracticable for carriages. .travellers going on to Palermo may from Segesta follow the high-road to the station of (about 3 hrs.) Castellammare (p. 277).

Calataflmi, a town with 10,000 inhabitants, lies to the w. of the railway in the valley of the Fiume Gaggera. If we asoend the principal street, a good footpath diverging to the right beyond the town will lead us to the top of the hill occupied hy the Castle (1115 ft.). Fine *View hence of the temple of Segesta and the extensive mountainous landscape in the environs.

The whole excursion from Calatafimi to Segesta takes 4-5 hrs. (comp. the Map; carriages, donkeys, etc., see above). The distance is about 5 M., a ride of l'/4 hr.

Our route follows the Castellammare road (view of the temple on the left), descending a beautiful, well-watered valley. About 2^2 M. below Calataflmi, a sunny road descends to the left to the fiumara, which after rain is not fordable by foot-passengers , and beyond the stream follows the right slope of Monte Barbaro (very marshy after rain) direct towards the custodian's house (1/2 hr.). Visitors are flrat conducted to the temple, thence in about 25 min. to the Monte Barbaro, where the theatre is inspected; return in 10 min. to the custodian's house, where luncheon may be taken.

Segesta, or Egesta as the Greeks usually called it, one of the most ancient towns in the island, was of Elymian, not of Greek ori- gin, and though completely Hellenised after the lapse of centuries, it was almost incessantly engaged in war with its Greek neighbours.

The Greeks entertained the unfounded opinion that the Egestans were descended from the Trojans, who settled here near the warm spring3 of the Scamander (Fiume Gaggera), and had combined with the Elymi so as to form a distinct people. During the Roman period the tradition accord- ingly arose that the town was founded by JSneas. The ancient town ex- perienced the most disastrous vicissitudes. Oppressed by the inhabitants of Selinus, the Egestans invited the Athenians to their aid, and after the defeat of the latter at Syracuse, they turned to the Carthaginians, on whose arrival followed the war of B.C. 409. Egesta found, however, that its connection with Carthage did not conduce to its own greatness, and accordingly allied itself with Agathocles ; but the tyrant on his return from an expedition against Carthage in B.C. 307 massacred 10,000 of the ill-fated inhabitants on the banks of the Scamander in order to appro- priate their treasures, whilst others were sold as slaves. The town was then named Dicaeopolis. During the First Punic War the inhabitants allied themselves with the Romans and changed the name of their town from the ill-omened Egesta (egestas) to Segesta. The Romans, out of vener- ation for the ancient Trojan traditions, accorded them some assistance. Verres despoiled the town of the bronze statue of Demeter, which had once been carried off by the Carthaginians and restored by Sripio Africanus. The ruins still in existence are described below.

The **Tbmple, situated on a hill to the W. of the town (995 ft.), is a peripteros-hexastylos of thirty-six columns, but was never completed. The columns are therefore unfluted, the steps of the basement unfinished, showing the portions added to facilitate the

e ROVINE di SECESTA.

HttHhJ

1 : 50.000

(liilnnii'di

to Trapani. CASTELVETRANO. 25. Route. 279

transport of the stones, and the cella not begun. In other respects it is one of the best-preserved Doric temples in Sicily, and its simple but majestic outlines in this desolate spot, surrounded by lofty mountains, are profoundly impressive. Length , including the steps, 200 ft. ; width 85 ft. ; columns with capitals 29 ft. in height and 6 ft. in thickness; intercolumnia 8 ft. in width. As the architraves were beginning to give way, they are secured where necessary with iron rods. The back of the Doric entablature, with guttse, is in good preservation.

The town itself lay on the Monte Barbaro. The interesting *Theatre commands a beautiful view. Before us, beyond the stage, rises Monte Inice (3490 ft.), more to the left is Monte Sparagio (3705 ft.), to the right is the so-called Bosco di Calatafimi, and lower down the valley of the Scamander (Gaggera) are the remains of the Thermae Segestanae, supplied by four different warm springs which the road to Castellammare passes ; in the distance is the sea. The diameter of the theatre, which is hewn in the rock, is 205 ft., that of the stage 90 ft., and of the orchestra 53 ft. The seats are divided into seven cunei, and separated by a praeeinctio . In front of the proscenium the remains of two figures of satyrs from the Roman period are visible. The twentieth row from the 'pracinctio' is furnished with backs. A few remains of houses with Roman and Greek mosaic pavements have recently been excavated.

The temple commands a distant view of the field, indicated by crosses, where Garibaldi gained the victory of 15th May, 1860. A monument has been unveiled in 1892 on the spot.

Continuation' of Railway. The country retains a uniform character. 58y2 M. Oibellina. 64 M. S. Ninfa-Salemi, the station for the towns of S. Ninfa and Salemi , both situated at some dis- tance from the railway. Salemi , the ancient Halicyae, on a hill to the right, contains 15,000 inhab. and is commanded by a ruined castle. Four tunnels are passed through. The scenery improves.

75M. CaStelvetranO. — Hotels. Alb. Bixio, with trattoria, fair,R.,L., &A. 2'/2fr.; Alb. Palermo, R.2fr., clean. — Caffe di Selinunte, in the Piazza.

Carriages etc. from Lor. Bascone and others. A visit to the ancient quarries near Campobello (p. 283) may be combined with that to Selinunto by making a very early start (carriages ordered the night before). Car- riage and pair to Selinunto and back, or to Campobello and back 12-15 fr. (bargaining advisable). — Horse or Mule to Selinunto and back 7 fr., to the quarries and back 8 fr. — Provisions should be taken.

Castelvetrano , Sicil. Casteddu Vetrano (620 ft.), is a provincial town , with 21,500 inhab. who are hereditary tenants of the fertile district around the town , the property of the dukes of Monteleone (of the family of Aragona-Pignatelli). The campanile of the church adjoining the Palazzo Monteleone affords the best panorama of the surrounding plain. The church of S. Giovanni contains a statue of John the Baptist by Ant. Gagini (1522; apply to the sacristan). The grammar-school contains the small Museo Municipale of antiqui-

280 Route 25. SELINUNTO. From Palermo

ties found at Selinunto. The chief treasures are an archaic statuette of *Apollo in bronze, found in 1882, and some terracottas. — About 2 M. to the W. is the Norman church of 8. Trinity della Delia, of the 12th cent, lately restored, and now private property.

Fkom Castelyetrano to Selinunto, 7'/2m-i a drive of 1 1/2 hr. By starting at 8 a.m. we may regain Castelvetrano again at about 3 p.m. — "We follow the Sciacca road, which gradually descends to the sea through a fertile but monotonous district, and then diverges to the right to the ruined temples of the Neapolis on the E. hill (p. 282), near which is a farm belonging to Florio (good wine). After wet weather, the valley between this hill and the Acropolis on the W. hill, which should first be visited, is very marshy and may then be crossed by the bridge.

**Selinus, among whose ruins are the grandest ancient temples in Europe, was founded in 628 by colonists from Megara Hyblaa under Pammilus, and was the westernmost settlement of the Hel- lenes in Sicily. On an eminence by the sea, 100 ft. in height, to the E. of the river Selinus (Modione), Pammilus erected the Acropolis, behind which, more inland, he placed the town itself. On the op- posite hill, separated from the citadel by a marshy valley (Qorgo di Cotone), the credit of draining which is ascribed to the philosopher Empedocles, a sacred precinct was founded in the 6th century. The Selinuntians were still engaged in the construction of the temples of the latter when Hannibal Gisgon destroyed the town in 409.

The conflicts between the Selinuntians and Egestans, whose territories were contiguous, afforded the Athenians, and afterwards the Carthagi- nians, a pretext for intervening in the affairs of Sicily. Hannibal attacked the town with 100,C00 men. Help from Syracuse came too late ; 16,000 in- habitants were up to the sword , and 5000 carried off to Africa as cap- tives; 2600 only effected their escape to Acragas. From that blow Seli- nus newer recovered. Hermocrates, the exiled Syracusan patriot, founded a colony here in 407, but under the Carthaginian supremacy it never attained to prosperity, and in the First Punic War it was finally destroyed (26cJB.C). Since that period it has remained deserted, as the district is unhealthy in summer. In the early Christian period cells were built between the temples and occupied by solitary settlers. The Mohammedans called the place Rahl-el-Asnam, or 'Village of the Idols', and here they resisted the attacks of King Roger. The ruin of the temples (formerly called Pilieri dei Giganti by the natives) was probably caused by an earth- quake , but at what period cannot now he determined. The sculptures found here are now in the museum at Palermo (p. 262).

The conductor of the excavations ('Soprastante degli Scavi') is Sig. Tommasini at Selinus , who will be found very obliging. Several custod- ians (Guardia delle Antichita) are stationed on the Acropolis (see p. 281), where, however, they are not always to be found. There is a Casa dei Yiaggiatori at the Acropolis, but in summer the night should not he spent there on account of the malaria. If a stay of some days is contemplated application should he made to Sig. Tommasini. An "introduction from the director of Palermo Museum is desirable.

The W. hill, on which lay the earliest town, was entirely sur- rounded with walls. These walls were destroyed in B.C. 409 but the higher part of them was re-erected two years later, partly with

to Trapani.

SELINUNTO.

25. Route. 281

materials from other buildings. This part of the town was traversed by two main streets, discovered by Cavallari, running N. and S. and E. and W., from which the other streets diverged at right angles. The most important remains in the E. half of the Acro- polis are those of temples, all facing the E. We shall de- signate the south- ernmost by the let- ter A. Between it and the custodian's house remains of another building, covered with sand, have been disco- vered. Beyond the line of the main street runningf rom E. toW., isasmall temple (B), which Hittorff restored as a prostyle - tetra- style with Ionic columns and Doric entablature. The next temple (C), to which the oldest metopes belonged, was probably sa- cred to Hercules, though Benndorf assigns it to Apol- lo; some of the col- umns are monoliths. Temple D is not so ancient as Temple C ; a somewhat elevated platform has lately been brought to light in front of it. The foundation-walls of numerous other buildings are traceable within the old town, and graves containing skeletons and houses, of a later date, also occur. Crosses chiselled on the over- thrown architraves indicate that these last were dwellings of the Christian period. — To the N. of the old town, or so-called Acro- polis, a strong ancient fortification (the Acropolis proper'?) has been exhumed , with two round bastions at the corners. The fact that capitals and triglyphs from an earlier edifice have been used in their construction prove that the latter at all events were not erected before B.C. 409. The arch of the doorway is not built but hewn out of the stone. The building discovered to the N., errone- ously called a Theatre, is really a fortified tower belonging to the

282 Route 25.

SELINUNTO.

From Palermo

second Acropolis, built after B.C. 409. To the N. of this poin lay trie town proper, the remains of which are very scanty. — Sti! farther to the N., on the ridge between the farms of Oalera anc Bagliazzo, was the earliest Necropolis. At a later period, but be- fore B.C. 409, the citizens had their Necropolis to the W.; the Propylaea may still be traced beside the farm of Manicalunga, beyond the river Selinus (Modione). The wild parsley (ailivov), which gave name to the city and was represented on its coins , still grows in abundance on the banks of the river. Adjacent to the farm of Mes- sana , which lies just beyond the river and may be recognised by its shady garden, Cavallari has discovered a temple open to the E. and W., and near it an inscription bearing the name of Hecate.

On the E. hill lie the ruins of three temples , but no other re- mains of any kind. The southernmost, which we designate E, contained five metopes : of these two were in the posticum, one representing Athena and the Giant, the other damaged beyond recognition; three were in the pronaos, and represented Hercules and the Amazon , Zeus and Hera , Artemis and Actaeon. An altai and inscription dedicating the temple to Hera were found here in 1865. The middle temple (F), some of the columns in which were left unfinished, yielded the two lower halves of metopes dis- covered by Messrs. Harris and Angell in 1822. The last temple (0), one of the largest Grecian temples known, was left unfinished, as is proved by the fact that nearly all the columns are unfluted. An inscription found in it seems to assign the temple to Apollo. According to Benndorf , Temples C and D were built soon after B.C. 628, Temple F and part of G in the 6th cent. B.C., and Temples A and E and the rest of 0 in the 5th cent. B.C.

The following measurements are given approximately in English feet.

Length of temple including steps

A.

139

B.

28V2

C. 230

D.

192

E.

228

F.

216

G.

371

Width of temple including steps

60

15

88

89

91

90

177

Height of columns with capitals .

20

II1/4?

28

241/2

33

30

51/4

531/2

Diameter of columns at the base.

4i/4

IV2?

6

5

7

1174

Diameter of columns at the top .

3>/2

1?

5

3V4

6

4

61/4 8

Height of entablature (trabeazione)

9

3'/4V

14

13i/4

14i/2

13

22

6 5

D/2?

8% 7'/2

131

9

'81/2

124

8 7

9 87a

103/4 91/4

82

H3A

135

133

228

25

HV2

29i/2|

26i/2

371/2

23 J

59

to Trapani. MAZZARA. 2.5. Route. 283

Beyond Castelvetrano the train enters a wide moor, which ex- tends nearly as far as Mazzara. Fine sea-views. — 77M. Campo- bello, near the ancient quarries, which yielded the material for the temples of Selinunto and are now called Bocca di Cusa or Cave di Campobello.

A visit to the 'Quarries of Selinunto may be made by carriage from Castelvetrano in about 3 hrs. (p. 279). The distance is only 2 M., but as only two trains a day run in each direction, the railway can hardly be used more than once. Those whose time is limited are recommended to combine this excursion with that to Selinunto in the manner indicated on p. 2711. — The quarries are peculiarly interesting , for the work in them was suddenly interrupted, doubtless on the capture of the town by the Carthaginians in B.C. 409, and has never since been resumed. The various stages of the process of quarrying are still traceable. A circular incision was first made in the rock, and then hewn out till a space of a yard in width was left free between the solid rock and the monolithic drum of the column. The block was then severed entirely from the rock, and its bed left empty. A number of such drums are lying ready for transport at the bottom of the quarry ; others have already been carried for some distance along the road to Selinunto. Among the drums, which measure 8-10 ft. in length and about 8 ft. in diameter, are some which correspond exactly with those used for the columns of temple O (see p. 282), and which were undoubtedly designed for the completion of that building.

84 M. S. Nicola. We then cross the river Delia.

89'/2 M. Mazzara [Alb. Centrale di Selinunte, close to the old castle, with trattoria; opposite, Loc. Vecchia, poor, R. 75 c. ; *C'afe near the Piazza del Duomo; Brit, vice-consul), officially styled Maz- zara del Vallo , a town with 13,500 inhab. , the residence of a bishop, is surrounded by a quadrangular wall about 36 ft. in height, which is defended in the characteristic Italian style with square towers rising from it at intervals. The ancient Mazara was originally a colony of the Selinuntians , hut , like the mother-city, was de- stroyed by Hannibal Gisgon in B.C. 409. In 827, the Arabs landed at Ras el-Belat (Punta di Granitola), to the S. of Mazzara, with the intention of conquering the island. The ruined Castle at the S.E. angle of the town-wall was erected, or at least strengthened, by Count Roger in 1073, who also founded the Cathedral, which contains three ancient sarcophagi (Battle of the Amazons ; Wild Boar Hunt ; Rape of Persephone , freely restored) , and a Transfiguration over the high-altar by Gagini. The mansion of the Conle Burgio, at theW. corner of the Piazza del Duomo , and the Archiepiscopal Palace opposite the cathedral contain large Arabic majolica vases. Plea- sant walk on the Marina. On the river Mazaras farther up, into the estuary of which the tide penetrates for a considerable distance, are situated grottoes in which the 'heati Pauli' once assembled.

Beyond Mazzara we traverse a tract of moor and enter a richly cultivated district, planted chiefly with the vine. 96 M. Bambina.

1021/2 M. Marsala. — Inns. Aleekgo Centkale, with good Trat- toria, E., L., & A. 2'/4-3'/4, bargain advisable; Albergo Leone.

Carriages from the station to the town, 1/2 fr- each person. .Steam- boat Office (Florio-Rubattino) at Florio's wine-manufactory; embarcation or landing 50 c, with luggage l'/s fr. per person.

284 Route 25. MARSALA. From Palermo

Bkitish Vice-Consul: Chas. F. Gray, Esq. — American Consdlak Agent : Geo. Bayson, Esq.

Marsala is an important commercial town with 37,000 inhab., well known for the Marsala wine which is manufactured here from Sicilian wines and spirit. The principal firms are Ingham, Florio, and Woodhouse, who kindly admit visitors to see their extensive and interesting establishments, situated on the shore to the S. of the town. Garibaldi, with 1000 men, transported by the 'Piemonte' and 'Lombardo', landed here on 11th May, 1860, and began his famous progress through the island, which ended in a few weeks with the overthrow of the Bourbon supremacy in Sicily. The town, a modern place , contains nothing noteworthy, except the cathedral and the wine manufacturies. The Municipio (last door on the right) contains an antique animal-group from Motye, a tiger devouring a bull; above is a Phoenician inscription.

Marsala occupies the site of the ancient Lilybaeum, a fragment of the town-wall of which is preserved near the Porta di Trapani. The ravine in front of the latter and the fields beyond contain ca- verns and graves, and the Convento del Niccolini (no admission) con- tains Phoenician tombs with Byzantine pictures. Other relics are the harbour to the N., where the salt-works are now situated, and a few fragments of houses and walls on the coast of Capo Boeo (or Lilibeo), the westernmost point of Sicily and the nearest to Africa. A bust of Garibaldi has been erected outside the Porta Nuova, where he landed. In the field to the left on the promontory stands the church of S. Giovanni Battista (open to visitors), with a sub- terranean spring in the Grotta delta Sibilla. The Cumaean sibyl is said to have proclaimed her oracles through the medium of the water, which is still an object of superstitious veneration.

LilybEeum was the principal fortress of the Carthaginians in Sicily. Pyrrhus besieged it unsuccessfully in 279, after which he quitted the island. In 249-41 the Romans in vain endeavoured to reduce it during one of the most remarkable sieges on record. Under the Roman supremacy Lily- bseum was a very handsome city ('splendidissima civitas'), and the seat of government for half of Sicily. From this point the Roman expeditions against Africa, and also those of John of Austria, were undertaken. The present name of the town is of Saracenic origin, Marsa-Ali , harbour of Ali. Charles V. caused stones to be sunk at the entrance to the harbour, with a view to deprive the barbarians of one of their favourite haunts.

On the small island of S. Pantaleo , situated in the shallow '■Sta- gnone" near the coast, about 6 M. to the N. of Marsala (boat thither from Marsala 4 fr.), was anciently situated the Phoenician emporium of Motye. The foundations of old walls round the island, and remains of the gates, especially on the side next the land, with which the island was connected by an embankment, are still traceable. The latter still exists under water, and is used by the natives as a track for their waggons. In B.C. 397 the town was besieged and destroyed by Dionysius with 80,000 men and 700 vessels, and the Carthaginian admiral Himilco totally routed. It was with a view to repair this loss that the Carthaginians founded LilybEeum.

Between Marsala and Trapani the train skirts the sea-coast. To the left is the Staynone (p. 284), with the islands of S. Pantaleo S. Maria, Isola Grande or Isola Lunga, and others. In the dis-

to Trapani. TRAPANI. 25. Route, 285

tance are the mountainous Favignana , Levanzo, and other islets belonging to the JEga&ian Group (see p. 287). — 106 M. Spag- nuola ; 110 M. Ragattisi. — Beyond (113 M.) Marausa the train crosses the Birgi, the ancient Acithis. Here, in the plain of Falconaria, Frederick II. of Sicily routed the united French and Neapolitan armies, and took Philip of Anjou prisoner, on 1st Dec. 1299. This was the greatest of the battles which took place during the wars after the Sicilian Vespers. — H8Y2M. Paceco ; the town, founded in 1609 and famed for its cucumbers and melons, lies to the right of the railway. The train passes extensive salt- works, in which the salt is stored in huge, tent-shaped heaps, and skirts the base of Monte S. Giuliano (p. 286).

121 M. Trapani. — Inns. Albeego Trinacria, Piazza del Teatro, near the harbour, with good Trattoria, B., L., & A. 272 fr. ; Leone d'Oro, near the gate, in the StradaNuova, very unpretending ; Cinque Torri, Largo S. Niccolo, moderate. — Restaurants. Giardinelto, not far from the Cinque Torri; Sicilia , near the harbour, both good. — Cafe1 Serafini, at the har- bour, beside the Dogana.

Carriages from the station to the town, lfc fr. each person. — Omnibus from the harbour (Piazza Marina) to the Madonna de.IV Anmnziata (p. 286), every 10 min. 10 c.

Mules and Donkeys for the Monte S. Giuliano are to be found near the gate, in the first street on the right (2-2>/2 fr., boy V2 fr.). — Carriage with three horses to the Mte. S. Giuliano 25-30 fr. A Diligence also runs daily to Mte. S. Giuliano.

British Vice-Consul, Sig. Marino ; TJ. S. Consular Agent, Sig. Marrone.

Coral, shell-cameos, and alabaster works are specialities of Trapani.

Trdpani , the ancient Drepana (from drepanon , a sickle), so called from the form of the peninsula, a prosperous town with 38,000 iuhab., lies at the N.W. extremity of Sicily, and is the seat of a prefect and a bishop. The harbour is good, and the trade of the place not inconsiderable.

In ancient times it was the seaport of Eryx (Mte. S. Giuliano), but was converted into a fortress by Hamilcar Barca about the year 260, and peopled with the inhabitants of Eryx. In 249 the Carthaginian admiral Adherbal defeated the Roman fleet under the consul Publius- Claudius off the harbour, and in 242 Drepana was besieged by the consul Lutatius Catulus , whose headquarters were in the island of Columbaria (Colum- bara). On this occasion the Carthaginian fleet, laden with stores, on its route from Maritimo to Favignana, was destroyed in March 241, in sight of the town, a victory which terminated the First Punic War. During the Roman period the town was unimportant. In the middle ages it pros- pered as a royal residence. In the iEneid, Anchises is represented as having died here, and jEneas as having instituted games to his father^ mem- ory. The island described as the goal in the boat-race is now called Asinello. Another tradition is that John of Procida formed the conspiracy against Charles of Anjou on the Scoglio del Mai Consiglio. It is, however, an historical fact that Peter of Aragon, touching here on 30th Aug. 1282, on his return from Africa with his fleet, was welcomed as a deliverer.

Besides a few mediaeval structures, Trapani contains several hand- some buildings in the baroque style. The Lyceum, to the right in the Corso, possesses a natural history collection and a picture-gallery (!/2 fr.). The latter includes: Carreca , Jacob's dream, St. Albert; Ribera, Heads of Apostles ; and interesting 14th cent, representations

286 Route 25. TRAPANI. From Palermo

from the ceiling of S. Agostino. — The Cattedrale 8. Lorenzo, farther on in the Corso, possesses a Crucifixion by Van Dyck (4th chapel on the right), freely retouched, and fine carved choir-stalls. — The church of S. Agostino, to the S., once a Templars' church, has curious architectonic decorations. — The neighhouring church of S. Maria di Gesii contains a Madonna by Luca della Robbia in a marble frame of 1521 (to the right of the altar). — In the Oratorio di 8. Michele is a representation of the Passion , executed in coloured wooden groups by Trapanian artists of the 17th century. — The portal of the adjacent church of the Madonna della Luce dates from 1509. The Via della Giudecca, or former Jewish quarter, contains an old house with a tower (Lo Spedadello), illustrating the curious mingling of architectural styles which characterised the 1 5th century. — The sta- tues of saints behind the high-altar in the church of S. Niccolb di Bari belong to the school of Gagini (1560). — A Statue of Victor Emmanuel II. by Dupre was erected in 1882 in the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, through which leads the road to Monte S. Giuliano. — The promenades along the harbour, where a Statue of Garibaldi, by L. Oroce, was erected in 1890, command a beautiful view of the Aegadian Islands (p. 287).

Pleasant walk to the Torre de' Legni, i/2 M. from the Albergo Trinacria, following the Corso to its end, where we pass through the gate next the sea and then incline a little to the right.

The attractive *Excuksion to Monte S. Giuliano occupies fully half-a-day. The traveller had better ride or walk (2'/2-3 hrs.).

The route passes the church of the Madonna dell' Anntjn- ziata, founded in 1332, about l^Bf. from the town (omnibus, see p. 285). The principal church has been modernised, but the fine architecture of the Cappella del Cristo Risorto, founded in 1476 by the seamen's guild, on the N. side, has been preserved, even on the exterior (sacristan in the convent behind the church).

In the CArPELLA del Ckisto Risorto are four excellent statues by a native artist of the end of the 15th cent. , representing sleeping and waking watchmen at the Sepulchre. — The Saceisti contains a silver salver, with Christian and mythological designs in relief, attributed to Benvenuto Cellini.

At this church the road to S. Giuliano diverges to the left from the high-road ; and pedestrians may ascend from it to the left by a steep footpath. The precipitous slopes are beautifully wooded at places. Midway is the small but fertile Piano dei Cappuccini, with the rock Petrale to the right, and La Cintaria to the left.

*Monte San Giuliano, the Eryx of antiquity, is an isolated mountain, 2465 ft. in height. On its summit is situated a small town {Caffe of Mastra Salvatore, Corso Vitt. Emanuele; Trattoria dell' Erice , near the entrance of the town , fair), which is rapidly falling to decay. The number of inhabitants is speedily decreasing owing to the frequent migrations which take place to the plain at the foot of the mountain. On account of the cold mists the

to Trapani. MONTE S. GIULIANO. 25. Route. 287

men of this district generally wear the 'cappa' or hood, met with throughout Sicily; the women, who are renowned for their beauty, wear long black veils. At the entrance of the town stands the Ca- thedral, restored in 1865, only the W. bays of which are old. "We ascend through the town to the towers fitted up as a residence by Baron Agostino Pepoli, commanding a splendid view and contain- ing a collection of objects of art , and then to the ivy-clad Castle (partly used as a prison). The rugged rock on which it stands com- mands a noble prospect of the land and. sea. To the W. at our feet lies Trapani, and beyond it are the iEgadian Islands : Maritimo (an- cient Hiera; with the Monte Falcone, 2245 ft.), the most distant; to the left, nearer us, Favignana (^Egusa, 1070 ft.); on the right Le- vanzo (Phorbantia); all of which belonged to the Genoese family of the Pallavicini from the middle of the 17th cent, till 1874, when they were purchased by Sign. Florio of Palermo. Towards the S. stretches the fertile plain of the coast, with Paceco (p. 285); in the back- ground is Marsala. Towards the E. tower the mountains of S. Vito (from W. to E. Sparagio, Laccie, Sauci, San Barnaba, and Rocca- corvo) ; and the conical peninsula of Cofano extends into the sea, which bounds three sides of the mountain. In winter Cape Bon in Africa is occasionally, and the island of Pantelleria (p. 380) fre- quently visible. In spring the whole district at our feet is clothed with the most luxuriant verdure.

On the summit once stood the shrine of Venus Erycina , a deity wor- shipped by all the people of the Mediterranean. The modern town is probably co-extensive with the sacred enclosure. The same spot had pre- viously been the site of a temple of Astarte, erected by Phoenician settlers, on whose altar no blood was permitted to flow. Melkarth was also wor- shipped here ; the Greeks therefore believed the temple to have been founded by Hercules, and Dorieus, brother of Leonidas of Sparta, undertook, as a Heraclides , an expedition to conquer this district , but was defeated and slain by the Phoenicians and Egestans. During the First Punic War Hamilcar Barca surprised the town, which lay on the slope of the moun- tain, but has left no trace of its existence, and besieged the temple, which was bravely defended by the Celtic mercenaries on behalf of Eome, but at the same time plundered by them. The Carthaginians were in their turn surrounded from below by the Romans, who afterwards restored the temple, furnished it with a guard of 200 men, and bestowed on it the revenues of seventeen towns of Sicily (for Eryx, it was said, had also been founded by ^Eneas !). According to some the temple was founded by Daeda- lus, and Eryx by a son of Venus and Butes. The present name is derived from the tradition, that, when the town was besieged by King Roger, he beheld St. Julian putting the Saracens to flight.

The only remains of the temple of Venus are the foundations within the castle, the so-called Ponte or Arco del Diavolo, and the 'Fountain of Venus' in the castle-garden, an ancient re- servoir, 4 yds. in width, and 8 yds. in length. Of the walls of the sacred city of Venus considerable portions still exist beneath the present wall, between the gates of Trapani and La Spada, con- sisting of huge blocks in courses of equal height. The wall was defended by eleven towers at unequal intervals. The entrance to the town was obviously between the Monte di Quartiere and the

288 Route 26. SCIACCA.

Porta la Spada, where in the interior of the town the walls of the approach can be traced towards the right. These walls are now known to have been erected by the Phoenicians.

26. From Castelvetrano (Selinunto) to Girgenti.

About 62 M. New road: diligence in about 19 hrs. Railway project- ed. For a carriage (2 days) 100 fr. is charged. For 3 mules with 3 atten- dants from Castelvetrano to Sciacca 30 fr. were paid; and for 3 mules with one attendant from Sciacca to Girgenti 45 fr. The Syracuse steam- boat (p. 276) touches at Sciacca weekly (Saturday forenoon ; landing or embarcation 1 fr.), a pleasant means ol conveyance to Girgenti if it should happen to suit the traveller's convenience. This excursion should be un- dertaken by those only who can endure considerable fatigue and who understand the Sicilian dialect; other travellers should visit Girgenti from Palermo (see E. 27). Recently also the state of public security has not been all that could be desired.

If Castelvetrano be quitted early, it is possible to ride in one day by the ruins of Selinus to Sciacca (28 M. ; or by the di- rect route from Castelvetrano about 24 M.). From the Acropolis we again cross to the Neapolis, traverse wheat-fields and vineyards, and reach the Fiume Beliee (ancient Hypsas), which we cross at a ford. The route then lies partly across the sand of the coast, partly through poorly cultivated land, to Sciacca. The town of M enfr ic i (Sicil. Menfi; 400 ft.), with 10,000 inhab., lies a little to the left. The stones for the Metopae of Selinus appear to have been quarried near this town.

Sciacca (La Pace, with trattoria, clean; Caffe a" Italia), vrith.22,200 inhab., situated on an abrupt eminence (260ft.) on the coast, oc- cupies the site of the Thermae Selinuntinae of antiquity. Tommaso Fazello (d. 1570), the father of Sicilian history, was born here. For the sake, it is said, of acquiring an illustrious fellow-towns- man, he describes Agathocles, the tyrant of Syracuse, who was born at Thermae Himerenses (Termini), as a native of Sciacca. In the middle ages the town was a place of some importance , being a royal and not merely a baronial borough. Powerful nobles, however, also resided here, the ruins of whose castles are still to be seen in the town; the most extensive of these are on the E. side of the town-wall. Here rise the ruins of the castles of the Luna and Perollo families, whose feuds, the so-called Casi di Sciacca, disturbed the tranquillity of the town for a whole century (1410-1529), a fact which serves to convey an idea of the con- dition of mediaeval Sicily. The Cathedral was founded by Julietta, the daughter of Roger I. The finest view is afforded by the tower of S. Michele. The Casa Starepinto and Casa Triolo are interesting specimens of mediaeval architecture. The spacious modern palace, with a beautiful garden, at the E. gate, is the property of the Marchese San Oiacomo.

Monte S. Calogero (1280 ft.), an isolated cone, 3 M. to the E. of Sciacca, deserves a visit on account of its curious vapour-baths. In the valley between Sciacca and the mountain are the sources of the hot

CORLEONE. 26. Route 289

sulphur (133° Fahr.) and salt (88°) springs, which attract numerous patients in summer. The foundation of the vapour -baths (Le Stufe; temperature varying from 92° to 104°) was attributed to Deedalus, and the mountain called in ancient times Mons Kronios. The grottoes, partially artificial, with unimportant inscriptions, such as the Orotta Taphano (delta Diana) and delle Pvlzelle, are interesting. In the middle ages the discovery of the efficacy of the baths was attributed to S. Calogero (mod. Greek kaldgeros, monk), and most of the baths in Sicily are accordingly named after that saint, as in ancient times they were all believed to have been established by Dsedalus. The island of Pantellaria is distinctly visible from the Monte S. Calogero. On 18th July, 1831, a volcanic island (Isola Ferdinandea), 4-5 M. in circumference, with a crater, rose from the sea between Sciacca, and Pantellaria, but on 18th Jan., 1832, entirely dis- appeared. In 1864 symptoms of a submarine eruption were again observed. There is also a shoal at this point. Not far from it a valuable coral reef was discovered in 1875, which attracts many hundreds of coral-fishers.

Fbom Palekmo to Sciacca via Cokleone, about68M.; railway to Corleone (42'/2M., in 41/4 hrs.; fares 8 fr. 55, 6 fr., 3 fr. 55 c). — Beyond (3y2 M.) Corsari and (572 M.) Villabate the train ascends the valley of the Scanzano to the S. — 10 M. Misilmeri; 15 M. Bolognetta - Marineo (called Ogliastro till 1883); 17'/2 M. Mulinazzo; I91/2 M. Baucina. — 2IV2 M. VUlafrati. A little to the W. are the baths of Cefala-Diana (called 'Gefala'by the Arabs), at the base of a lofty hill, crowned by the Castello di Diana; — 22'/2 M. Mezaojuso; fSfifall. Godrano ; 291/2Mr. Ficuzza, with a royal hunting-lodge. To the S. rises the mountain-ridge of Busctmbra, with the woods of Cap- pelliere. — 31 M. Bifarera; 33'/2 M. Scalilli-Tagliavia. On the hill is the ruined Saracen fort of Galata Busambra. — 39 M. Donna Beatrice.

42 M. Corleone (Albergo delle Palme, fine view), anciently Korlifin, with 15,700 inhab., is a town of Saracenic origin, where Frederick II. estab- lished a Lombard colony in 1237. Its inhabitants were therefore the most strenuous opponents of the house of Anjou.

From Corleone the road leads via Campoflorito , skirting the cliffs of Monte Cardellieri and Monte Buraco , to Bisacquino (10,000 inhab.) and (13 M.) Chiusa-Sclafani (7500 inhab.) , where it divides. The road to the B. leads to Burgio. The principal church here contains a picture by Ribera , and the Franciscan church a statue of St. Vitus by Ant. Gagini (1520). We follow the branch to the W., via, Giuliana, with an ancient castle and a Norman church ,* to Sambucca, a well-built town with 9000 inhab., which under the name of Rahal Zabuth belonged to the monastery of Monreale in 1185. Farther on, to the right, are situated Conlessa, an Albanian settlement, and the ruins of Entella on the bank of the Belice Sinislro, 5 M. from Contessa, and accessible from the S.E. only. Entella was an Elymian town, of which mention is made in the Trojan-Sicilian myths. In 403 it was taken by surprise by the Campanian mercenary troops of Dionysius I. From Sambucca the road proceeds W. to Sella- Misilbesi , where it unites with the road from Partanna (13,000 inhab.) and S. Margherita (8000 inhab.), and then leads S. E. to Sciacca (p. 288).

From Sciacca to Girgenti, about 40 M. (a fatiguing ride of 12 hrs.). We cross the Fiume Caltabelotta ; to the left on a precipi- tous height, on the right hank of the river, 10 M. inland, stands Caltabelotta. About 1 M. to the S. of it, on a still higher hill (2430 ft.), now occupied by the church of S. Maria a Monte Ver- gine, lay Triocala, celebrated for the siege it sustained in the Sec- ond Servile War, B.C. 102. The view thence is one of the finest in Sicily. On the left bank lies the small town of Ribera (Cafe-Restaurant Garibaldi). Farther on we cross (20!/2 M.) the river Platani (ancient Halycus) and reach , having accomplished about half the journey, —

Baedekek. Italy III. 11th Edition. 19

290 Route 27. TERMINI.

Montallegro (miserable locanda), a place consisting of two vil- lages , the older on the hill , now deserted owing to want of water, and the newer lower down. Near the village is a small lake, nearly !/2 M. in diameter, impregnated with carbonate of soda.

On the Capo Bianco (100 ft.), between the Platani and Monte Allegro, once lay Heracleia Minoa. At first Macara, a Sicanian town, stood here ; it then became a Cretan and Phoenician settlement (Rus-Melkarth), the Greek Minoa. It was next colonised by Lacedaemonians under Euryleon, successor of Dorieus who was slain at Eryx, and received the name of Heracleia Minoa. At a later period it was generally in possession of the Carthaginians. Coins bearing the old Phoenician inscription 'Rus Melkarth' are still extant. When it was finally destroyed is unknown , and very few fragments of if now exist.

A good road leads from Montallegro to (15 M.) Porto Empedocle.

Porto Empedocle, and thence by railway to Girgenti, see p. 293 ; the distance by road is scarcely 4 M.

27. From Palermo to Girgenti and Porto Empedocle.

Railway from Palermo to Girgenti, 84 M., in 43/4-53/« hrs. (fares 15 fr. 45, 10 fr. 80, 7fr.; express to Roccapalumba and thence ordinary train, 16 fr. 25, 11 fr. 35 c). From Girgenti to Porto Empedocle 6 M., in V2 hr. (fares 1 fr.15, 80, 75 c).

The railway traverses the fertile plain of the coast (stations Ficarazzelli and Ficarazzi) to Bagheria (p. 275), and runs thence between the sea and the hills, passing through several short tunnels. 10 M. 8. Flavia, station for Solunto (p. 275). 11 M. Cas- teldaccia. — 13 M. Altavilla; the village, on the hill to the right, possesses one of the oldest existing Norman churches, called La Chiesazza, founded by Robert Guiscard in 1077. A number of 'ton- nare' (for catching the tunnyflsh) are observed in the sea. A red flag hoisted near them in the month of May indicates that a shoal has entered, or is about to enter the nets , and is a signal for a ge- neral onslaught of the fishermen. — 17 M. 8. Niccola; l91/2 M- Trabia, a fine old castle on the coast. Then a bridge over the Fiume S. Leonardo, and a tunnel.

23 M. Termini (Albergo d'ltalia, tolerable ; Rail. Restaurant), one of the busiest provincial towns of Sicily, with 23,200 inhab., is situated on a promontory. The houses of the nobility lie on the hill, those of the merchants on the E. side. The maccaroni (pasta) of Termini is considered the best in Sicily.

Termini (Thermae Himerenses), probably an ancient Phoenician sea- port, was founded as a town by the Carthaginians in 407 , after the de- struction of Himera. It soon, however, became Hellenised , and in the First Pnnic War was taken by the Romans. Under the latter it was a pro- sperous place , and even in the middle ages it was a town of some im- portance. Robert of Naples, who attacked Sicily in 1338, besieged the strong castle of Termini in vain. This ancient stronghold was destroyed in 1860.

The substructures of a Roman basilica have been excavated in the Villa della Cittit, in the Piano di S. Giovanni, above the town (fine *View), where there are also traces of an amphitheatre. The Aqua Cornelia, a Roman aqueduct to the S.E. of the town, was de- stroyed in 1438. Its remains from Brucato downwards merit a visit

ROCCAPALUMBA. 27. Route. 291

on account of the remarkable fertility of the surrounding district. A collection of prehistoric , Greek , and Roman antiquities , and a number of paintings by early Sicilian masters are preserved at the old Ospedale dei Benfratelli (fine Gothic windows in the hall), un- der the charge of Prof. S. Ciofalo. Termini was the birthplace of Niccolo Palmieri, a distinguished Sicilian political economist and historian, who is interred in the Chiesa del Monte. The bath-estab- lishment, situated on the E. side of the hill, was founded by Fer- dinand I., and is well fitted up. The springs (110° Fahr.) contain Epsom salts. The baths are extolled by Pindar. — The finest view near Termini is afforded by the rocks above the castle.

On a rocky slope above the Fiume S. Leonardo, 4 JI. from Termini, lies Caccamo, containing 8000inhab., and commanding a fine view. — The ascent of the precipitous Monte San Calogero (4085 ft.) is 'recommended, if the authorities report no danger from brigands (8-9 hrs. from Termini).

From Termini to Ce/alii, see R. 31.

From Tekmini to Leonfoete. This road, about 62'/2 M. in length, was once the route usually pursued by the Arabs on their predatory in- cursions from Palermo into the interior. It ascends by the Fiume Torto to Cerda (see below), crosses the mountain, and descends to the valley of the Fiume Grande and the small town of Sclafani, which possesses hot springs of some repute (bare and uninviting bath-rooms) and a church containing an antique sarcophagus with Bacchic reliefs. The next little town, Calta- vuturo (18 M. from Termini), is of Saracenic origin (Kalat-Abi-Thaur), and was taken by Roger I., who bestowed it on his daughter Matilda. It now contains 6000 inhabitants. [To the E. of Caltavuturo, on a rock 3000 ft. in height, lies Polizzi, surnamed La Genero&a, a town of considerable im- portance in the middle ages, near which rise the Himera Meridionalis (Fiume Salso) and the Himera Septentrionalis (Fiume Grande), which the ancients believed to possess one common source.] The road next leads to Petralia di Sotto and di Sopra, two country-towns in a fertile district with imposing mountainous environs , occupying the site of the ancient Pelra or Petraea. To the S., on the top of the hill, lie Buonpietro and Alimena. The latter was conquered by the Saracens in 843, and is perhaps the ancient Jffemichara or Imachara.

From Petralia the road traverses a lofty mountain to (6 M.) Gangi, a town with 14,000 inhab., the ancient Sikelian Enguium, originally a Cretan, i.e. a Phoenician colony, where in Cicero's time a celebrated temple of the 'Cretan Mothers' (Matres; not Mater Magna as Cicero has it), despoiled by Verres , was situated. The road leads hence through a fertile tract to (9 M.) Sperlinga (2590 ft.) , which alone showed partiality to the French in 1282, whence the saying, 'Quod Siculis placuit sola Sperlinga negavif ; thence to (3 M.) Nicosia , with 15,500 inhabitants who speak a Lombard dialect, a town of thoroughly mediseval appearance, regarded as more behind the age than any other in Sicily. The road then passes Rocca di Sarno, where the brave Norman Serlo perished through treachery, and leads to Leonforte (p. 301).

The train coatinues to skirt the coast , with the Monte San Calogero rising on the right, crosses the Fiume Torto, and then turns inland towards the S., following the right bank of the stream.

28 M. Cerda; the village lies on the hill to the left, 4 M. from the station; on the right rises the M. Calogero. — 32 M. Sciara. The train crosses the Fiume Torto, passes through a tunnel, and beyond (35!/2M.) Causo re-crosses the stream. — 38 M. Monte- maggiore. The river is again crossed.

44 M. Roccapalumba (Rail. Restaurant), junction for the line

19*

292 Route 27. MACCALTJBI.

to Palermo and Catania (p. 298) ; change carriages for Girgenti. — The village lies at some distance to the right. On a steep hill (2400 ft.) to the left, 4 M. from the railway, is situated the town of Alia, with 5000 inhabitants.

The train for Girgenti ascends, and crosses the watershed between the Tyrrhenian and African seas. Two tunnels. — 48 M. Lercara (Rail. Restaurant), near which are the northernmost sulphur-mines in the island. The train leaves the town on the hill to the right, passes through a tunnel, and enters the valley of the Platani. To the right opens the beautiful basin of (53 M.) Castronovo. On the Cas- saro , a hill above Castronovo , are some mural remains of a very ancient town. The yellow marble columns at Caserta were quarried here. The ruins of the mediaeval Castronovo lie at the foot of the Cassaro. The train then crosses to the right bank of the Platani.

55!/2 M. Cammarata , a town with 6000 inhabitants. The Pizzo di Cammarata or Monte Gemini (5200 ft.) is one of the highest mountains in the island, and commands a magnificent view. The ascent may be easily made in 2!/2 hrs. (footpath all the way to a chalet just below the summit). — An interesting mountain- path (guide necessary) leads past Monte Chilombo to the town of Castel Termini (Loc. Cajetani), with numerous sulphur-mines.

62 M. Acquaviva - Platani . To the E. is the little town of Mussumeli, near which is a castle of the 15th cent., formerly in the possession of the Chiaramonti now belonging to Signor Lanza di Trabia. — 65 M. Sutera ; the town (4500 inhab.), with a ruined castle, is situated on a hill to the left {Pizzo di Sutera, 2685 ft.). In 860 the Arabs called the town Sottr. It is supposed by some to have been the ancient Camicus, where Daedalus built a castle for Cocalus.

Beyond (66y2 M.) Campofranco the train passes through a narrow and rocky defile between the Monte di Roveto on the right and the Rocca Grande on the left. The valley opens near Passo- fonduto. Farther on , the train skirts the left bank of the Platani for a short distance, and then ascends a side-valley towards the S. 74 M. Comitini, with valuable sulphur-mines. On a hill , Pfe M. to the W. , lies Aragona, with 12,500 inhab. and a modern chateau.

77^2 M. Aragona-Caldare (Cafe at the station), the junction of the railway to Catania (R. 29).

The mud-volcano of Maccalubi, 4 M. to the "W., interesting to scientific travellers, may be visited from this point (guide, at the station, 1-2 fr.). The hill, formed of limestone and clay, is about 135 ft. in height (860 ft. above the sea-level), and is covered with cones, l'/2-3 ft. high, the upper cavities of which are filled with mud , and from clefts in which carbur- etted hydrogen gas issues with more or less noise. The ground, where- ever it has been touched by the mud, becomes utterly barren and looks as though it had been scorched.

To the right opens a splendid view over the hills as far as the distant sea. — 84 M. Girgenti, see p. 293. . — The train descends, skirting the hill on which the town lies, passes through a short tunnel, crosses the valley of the Fiume di Girgenti, and reaches —

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GIRGENTI. 28. Route. 293

90 M. Porto Empedocle , formerly called Molo di Oirgenti, a busy little seaport -with 7500 inhab., where the sulphur and corn- dealers of Girgenti have extensive magazines.

28. Girgenti.

Hotels. *H6tel des Temples, in the former Villa Genuardi, of the first class, situated about '/s M. from the town, on the way to the temples, closed in summer, R. 3-5, L. 1, A. 1, B. IV2, dej. 3'/2, D. 5, pens, for a stay of some time 10-15, omn. from station li/2 fr. ; Hot. Grande Beetagne, Via Atenea, R., L., & A. 3-4 fr., the rooms are good, otherwise mediocre; "Albeego Belvedere', prettily situated, R., L., Si A. 2lJ2, B. l'/4, pens. 8, omn. 1 fr. ; Alb. Centeale, R. & L. 2 fr., unpretending.

Restaurants and Cafes. Gellia , in the Hot. Grande Bretagne, see above; Brasile, Leon d'Oro, Via Atenea; Cafil Palermo, very unpretending.

Post and Telegraph Office, Via Atenea.

Railway to Palermo, see R. 27; to Catania, see R. 29. — Steamboats, see p. 276. — Diligence to Palma daily at 5 a.m.

Carriages. From the station to the (2V4 M.) town 2 fr. ; 'un posto', or a seat for a single traveller, 50 c, luggage 25 c. (after sunset 1 fr. incl. luggage). Carriages wait in the Via Atenea to take passengers from the town to the station. — To the ruins and back, carriages according to tariff ; for 3 hrs. 5 fr., for each additional hr. l'/a fr. The traveller should stipu- late that a visit to the Rock of Athene is included ; supply of provisions necessary.

Disposal of Time. A day suffices for the sights ; by means of an early start and the use of a carriage, they may be overtaken in half a day. The walk to the temples and back takes 2'/2 hrs., besides the time spent in the inspection. Balvatore Messina, who speaks French, may be recom- mended as a guide to the ruins (5 fr. per day), but unnecessary.

British Vice Consul, Mr. E. A. Oates. — American Consular Agent, Sig. Bugenio Bottazzi.

The beggars and children harass visitors with their importunity against which patience is the only defence. Hawkers both in the town and at the temples offer spurious antiquities for sale.

Oirgenti (1082 ft.), the Acragas of the Greeks and the Agrigen- tum of the Romans, in the middle ages the most richly endowed bishopric in Sicily, has 21,300 inhabitants. It is the seat of a pre- fect, and the military headquarters of the district. It is now pro- vided with water-works, partly constructed from an ancient aque- duct. The four gates are the Porta del Molo, del Ponte, Biberia, and Panitteri. The trade of the town is considerable, nearly one-sixth of the Sicilian sulphur being exported from Porto Empedocle, the seaport of Girgenti (see above).

Acragas, 'the most beautiful city of mortals' according to Pindar, was founded by colonists from Gela in 582. The Doric settlers, some of them natives of Rhodes, introduced the worship of Athene of Lindus and also that of Zeus Atabyrius, i.e. the Moloch of Mt. Tabor. After having erected a temple to Zeus Polieus, 'the founder of cities'1, Phalaris usurped the supreme power with the assistance of his workmen, and ruled from 564 to 549, when he was deposed by the Eumenides Telemachus, and an oligarchy of sixty years now began. The cruelty of Phalaris has become proverbial ; he is said, for instance, to have sacrificed human victims to Zeus Atabyrius in red-hot bulls of metal. In 488 Theron, a descendant of Telemachus, subverted the oligarchy, and extended the dominions of Acragas as far as the N. coast, where he conquered Himera. Allied with his son-in-law Gelon, the tyrant of Syracuse, he defeated the Carthaginians at Himera in 480 (p. 308), after which he devoted his attention to the im-

294 Route 28. GIRGENTI. History.

provement of Acragas. The town stood on a hill descending precipitously on the N. side, and sloping gently towards the coast on the S., hounded by the two rivers Acragas ( S. Biagio) and Hypsas (Drago). It consisted of two parts: the Acropolis to the N., the W. part of which, where the temple of Zeus Polieus stood, contains the modern town (1080 ft.)- while the E. part was called the Rock of Athene (1105 ft.); and the town proper to the S., by the walls of which the ruined temples now lie. (The W. part of the Acropolis has been sometimes erroneously identified with the Sicanian town of Camicus.) The prisoners of war captured in 480 (of whom some of the citizens possessed as many as 500 each) were compelled to excavate the subterranean canals ; the temples were also erected at that period, and a large fish-pond constructed. T/trasydaeus, the son of Theron (d. B.C. 473), was very inferior to his father, and was soon expelled by the citizens, who established a republican form of government, afterwards perfected by Em- pedocles (d. about 424). The wealth and luxury of the city, which formed the chief emporium of the trade with Carthage, now reached their climax. Citizens like Antisthenes and Gellias (or Tellias) exercised a princely mu- nificence. The population has been stated at 200,000, and even at 800,000, but the latter figure, if not wholly erroneous, must include the slaves and the inhabitants of the municipal territory. The city remained neutral dur- ing the war between Athens and Syracuse. The Carthaginians soon after overran the island, and their generals Himilco and Hannibal captured the rich city of Acragas, which was betrayed by its own mercenaries and deserted by its citizens. In 406 Himilco caused the city to be plundered and the works of art to be sent to Carthage. The temples were burned down (traces of the action of fire being still believed to be observable on the temple of Juno). The city was afterwards partly rebuilt, but until the time of Timoleon remained of little importance. That hero sent a colony thither, and the town again prospered, at one time as an in- dependent state, at another under the Carthaginian supremacy. In the First Pnnic War the citizens, as the allies of Carthage, were in a position to furnish the Carthaginians with a contingent of 25,000 men, and in 262 the Romans besieged the city. The battle fought without the walls was not decisive, but was so favourable to the Romans, that the Cartha- ginians were compelled to withdraw their troops to Heraclea. The city was then captured by the Romans , and shortly after retaken by the Carthaginian general Carthalo. In the Second Punic War the Carthagin- ians maintained themselves longest in this part of Sicily, and Acragas came into the possession of the Romans only through the treachery of the Numidians. Thenceforward the town (Agrigentum) was a place of little importance. The Saracens took possession of it in 828, and it became a rival of Palermo , being chiefly colonised by the Berbers. In 1086 the town was taken , and a well-endowed bishopric founded, by Roger I., and St. Gerlando became the first bishop.

The road to Poito Empedocle, quitting the town by the E. gate, the Porta del Ponte, and leading to the ruins via the Passeggiata (p. 298), skirts the foot of the Rook of Athene {Rupe Atenea, p. 298), and passes the Hotel des Temples (on the right). A route for foot- passengers diverges to the right, below the barracks, as soon as the town is quitted, and leads direct to S. Nicola (p. 295). Straight in front, at the S. E. angle of the ancient city, is the temple of Juno Lacinia (p. 295).

The turning to the left at the first fork of the road leads to a small shed, in which is the Fonte dei Greet, the mouth of an antique conduit 4'/2 M. in length, which even yet supplies the town with diinkin» water! About 1/2 M. farther on in the same direction (to the left a^ain at trie fork) we reach the remains of a small Greek temple in aniis , the fo-called Temple of Ceres and Proserpine, converted into the church of <S. Biagio in the Norman period. The right branch of the last-mentioned fork brings us to a hollow way, forming in antiquity the approach from the river.

Temple of Concord. GIRGENTI. 28. Route. 295

The branch to the right at the first fork leads in a wide curve to the little Gothic church of 8. Nicola , built into a more an- cient edifice, of which a fragment is visible behind the high-altar. The portal has been restored. Adjacent is the so-called Oratory of Phalaris, originally a Koman sanctuary and afterwards converted into a Norman chapel. Fine panorama in front of it. In the adjacent Pa- nitteri garden are portions of statues and Corinthian entablatures.

We now proceed to the S. wall of the ancient city, where the tem- ples lay, ascending the narrow road that turns to the left after 10 min., and leads past the Temple of Concord (see below). At the S. E. angle , magnificently situated above a steep preci- pice, 390 ft. above the sea-level, is the so-called **Temple of Juno Lacinia. This name, however, rests merely on a confusion betwixt this temple and the temple of Juno at Croton , for which Zeuxis painted a picture of Helen. The temple is a peripteros- hexastylos with thirty-four columns of the best period of the Doric style (5th cent. B.C.). The columns have twenty flutes, and their height is Ave times their diameter. Earthquakes have here completed the work of destruction : twenty-five whole pillars only are left stand- ing, while nine half-ones have been re-erected. All have been dis- integrated on their S.E. sides by exposure to the Scirocco. In front of the pronaos of the temple are two narrow terraces. To the W. an ancient cistern. — On the S. side part of the old town- wall , consisting of huge masses of rock , is still preserved. In the rock beneath the temple are ancient tombs.

The so-called **Temple of Concord, farther to the "W., is one of the best-preserved ancient temples in existence . as it was con- verted in the middle ages into a church of S. Gregorio delle Rapi ('of the turnips'). The arched openings in the wall of the cella belong to that period. The temple is a peripteros-hexastylos, later than that of Juno Lacinia, but also erected before the decline of the Doric style. Its thirty-four columns with the architrave and frontons are still standing. The right corner of the front pediment, and the incisions for beams are almost all of later origin. Staircases in the comers of the wall of the cella ascend to the summit.

On the left of the road, between this and the next temple, on this side of the white wall, is the entrance to an early Christian catacomb , called Grotta de' Frangapani, the centre of which is formed by a circular room with several rows of 'arcosolia' (vaulted tombs in the walls). A second story, lying deeper in the rock, has been made partly accessible. The oldest part of the catacomb appears to date from the 2nd century. It is doubtful whether the numerous tombs cut in the rocks adjoining this catacomb are of Christian origin.

Not far from the Temple of Concord are the insignificant ruins of the so-called *Temple of Hercules, a peripteros-hexastylos of thirty- eight columns(surroundedwith awall; thecustodian opens the gate).

296 . Route 28. GIRGENTI. Temple of Zeus.

The back part of the cella consists of three adjacent rooms. The temple was restored during the Roman period. A statue of ^Escu- lapius, found here, is now in the museum at Palermo. The temple is said to have contained the famous painting of Alcmene by Zeuxis. From it Verres attempted to steal the statue of Hercules by night, but his workmen were repulsed by the pious citizens.

Adjoining the temple is the Porta Aurea, the town-gate towards the harbour, by which the Romans entered the city in 210. Roads to Porto Empedocle and the Molo lead through this gate.

To the left, outside the Porta Aurea, is the so-called *Tomb of Theron, which, like the temple of Castor and Pollux and the Ora- torium of Phalaris, is of the later Greek, or perhaps of the Roman period. In a house between the Tomb of Theron and the con- fluence of the Acragas and Hypsas, where the army of the Romans was posted during the siege, are preserved fragments of an edifice which appears to have been a 'templum in antis', perhaps the Temple of ^Esculapius, containing the celebrated statue of Apollo by Myron, which is generally believed to have once stood here.

To the N. of the Porta Aurea lie the equally unimportant ruins of the Temple of Zens, which was never completed (closed, small fee to custodian). This vast structure, which has been extolled by Poly- bius and described by Diodorus, was erected in the 5th cent. B.C. It was a pseudo-peripteros with thirty-seven or thirty-eight huge half-columns, seven at each end (perhaps only six at the "W. end), and fourteen on each side , each 20 ft. in circumference , with flutings broad enough to admit of a man standing in each. The flat backs of the columns formed a series of pilasters. The entrance has not been definitely determined, but traces of steps are believed to have been found at the \V. end. Within the walls of the cella, although uncertain where, stood the colossal Telamones or Atlantes, one of which has been reconstructed, and measures 25 ft. in height. They are supposed to have been placed either in front of the pil- asters, or above them as bearers of the entablature. In the tympa- num of the E. side (or according to some authorities, on the me- topae) was represented the contest of the gods with the giants, on the W. side the conquest of Troy. Entire portions of the side- walls have fallen outwardly, and now lie with the same relative disposition of their parts as when erect. The notches and grooves were either for fitting the stones into each other, or for raising them to their places. Down to 1401 a considerable part of the temple was still in existence, but it has been gradually removed, and in recent times was laid under contribution to aid in the con- struction of the Molo of Girgenti.

Near this temple, to the N. W., M. Cavallari has caused four Doric columns of a temple to be re-erected, which is commonly called that of Castor and Pollux, though without sufficient ground. Portions of two distinct temples, however, have been used in the

Cathedral.

GIRGENTI.

?<S. Route. 297

restoration. Fragments of the entablature bear distinct traces of stucco and colouring. It was a peripteros-hexastylos of 34 columns. Near it are the substructures of other ancient buildings. Fine view towards the N. from the brink of the so-called piscina (see below). Approximate Dimensions of the temples in English feet: —

Ceres

Juno Lac.

Concord

Hercul.

Zeus

Cast. <kPol.

JEscul.

Length incl. steps

90

134

138

241

363

Ill

—

Breadth . . .

40

64

64>|j

90

182

51

40

Length of cella

-

91

94

156

302

79

25

Breadth of cella

-

30

30

45

63

181(2

—

Height of columns with capitals .

—

21

22i/3

33

55

21

—

Diameter of col- umns . . .

—

4

4'|2

7

143|4

33|4

—

Intercolumnia .

—

5i|2

5i|2

73|4

—

—

—

Height of entabla- ture ....

-

—

9>|2

—

—

—

—

On the other side of the hollow, which is said to have once been occupied by the fish-pond (piscina) mentioned by Diodorus, is a garden containing remains of the so-called Temple of Vulcan, whence a flue view of the temples opposite is obtained. Of the spring of oil mentioned by Pliny no trace has been found. The Hippodrome probably lay to the N. of the temple of Vulcan. Remains of the celebrated Cloacae of Phaeax still exist in the Piscina.

We now inspect the Modern Town. The loftily-situated Cathe- dral (1080 ft.), on the N. side, begun in the 14th cent., has been so completely modernised, that only a single column on the left side bears any visible trace of the original style (polygonal pillar, with foliage capital). The best part is the unfinished campanile, which commands an admirable view. The interior contains (last altar on the right) a Madonna by Guido Reni; and in the Aula Capitolare, at the end of the left. aisle, is a celebrated Marble Sarcophagus with reliefs of the myth of Hippolytus (small fee to the sacristan).

On the right side Hippolytus hunting. On one end Phaedra pining for love, with her attendants. On the left side the nurse divulges to Hippolytus the love of his step-mother. On the fourth side death of Hippolytus.

An acoustic peculiarity in the cathedral is noteworthy. A person stand- ing on the steps of the high-altar can distinguish every word spoken on the threshold of the principal W. entrance, though the distance is about 100ft.

In the Treasury are two early mediaeval enamelled caskets. The Cathedral Archives (entered from the cathedral) contain nu- merous documents of the Norman period of Sicilian history.

From the cathedral we proceed to the neighbouring church of S. Maria dei Oreci (closed, custodian !/2 fr-)> which contains frag-

298 Route 28. GIRGENTI.

ments of the Temple of Jupiter Polieus or of Athene. It was a peripteros-hexastylos, but its dimensions are unknown. Its remains are the most ancient in Girgenti. The wall of a low passage "beside the church has six column-bases built into it.

The Museum, under the supervision of Sig. Celi, contains an archaic marble statue of *Apollo, a sarcophagus with triglyph-reliefs (found near the sea in 1886), vases, coins, and fragments of marbles. — The Biblioteca Lucchesiana, near the cathedral and in the same street, was founded in the 18th cent, by Bishop Lucchesi , after- wards Archbishop of Palermo, and is now the property of the town.

The most interesting mediaeval structure is the portal of San Giorgio. — Near the Church del Purgatorio is the entrance to the old 'Catacombs', or subterranean quarries below the present town.

The Passeggiata , below the Rupe Atenea , where a band plays three times a week, in the evening in summer, and from 12 to 1 in winter, commands a charming view. In clear weather the island of Pantelleria is visible shortly before sunset.

From the terrace outside the B. town-gate we ascend past the suppressed Capuchin monastery of S. Vito (at the cross-road to the right) to the *Kock of Athene (1150 ft.), or Rupe Atenea. It has been supposed that a temple of Athene once stood at the top, which has evidently been levelled by human agency, but the most recent investigations show this to be very doubtful. According to a local tradition, the depression between the town and the rock^ was arti- ficially formed by Empedocles to admit of the passage of the N. wind (the 'Tramontana') and thus dispel the malaria. The view in every direction is magnificent, particularly by evening-light. The ancient town-wall crossed the Rock of Athene, but no traces of this part of it are preserved.

A visit to the Sulphur Mines near Girgenti is also interesting. Visitors with letters of introduction are received with great civility.

29. From Palermo and Girgenti to Catania.

From Palermo to Catania, 151 M. , railway in 7-10'/2 hrs. (fares 27 fr. 50, 19 fr. 25, 12 fr. 40 c; express, 30 fr. 25, 21 fr. 15 c). — From Girgenti to Catania , 114 M., railway in 8-9 hrs. (fares 21 fr. 60, 15 fr. 15, 9 fr. 85 c. ; express, beyond S. Caterina-Xirbi, 22 fr. 95, 16 fr.). — These two lines unite at S. Caterina-Xirbi. — A supply of refreshments should be taken, as railway-restaurants are few and far between on this line.

From Palermo to S. Catkrina-Xirbi. — To Roccapalumba, 431/2 M., see pp. 290-291. The country is bleak and deserted. 54 M. Valledolmo ; 59'/2M. Vallelunga. On the right rises the Monte Campanaro. 62!/2M. Villalba. The railway here reaches the valley of the Bilice, which flows to the S., soon, however, leaving it by a tunnel nearly 4 M. long, through the mountain-range in front. —

66^2 M. Marianopoli ; the village lies on the hill some distance off.

73 M. Mimiani-8. Cataldo. S. Cataldo; is a considerable distance from the railway, to the S. — 79 M. S. Caterina Xirbi. see p. 299.

OANICATTI. 29. Boute. 299

From Girgenti to S. Caterina-Xirbi. — To Aragona-Ca Idare, 6Y4 M., see p. 292. The train passes through several tunnels and traverses a district full of sulphur-mines ('zolfare'). To the right frequent views of the sea and Girgenti are obtained. 9 M. Comitini- Zolfare; 13 M. Orotte, perhaps the ancient Erbessus , whence the Romans derived their supplies of provisions while besieging Agrig- entum in 262. — 14V2 M- Racalmuto, a beautifully situated town with 12,000 inhabitants. — 191/2 M- Castrofilippo.

23y3 M. Canicatti. The town, with 22,000 inhab., is situated on a slight eminence to the W. of the station.

From Canicatti to Licata. 28'/2 M., railway in 2-2>/2 hrs. (5 fr. 20, 3 fr. 65, 2 fr. 35 c). — 6 M. Delia; 10l/2 Campobello, a town with 7000 inhab., situated on a hill in a fertile and well-watered district. There are several large sulphur-mines in the vicinity. I71/2 M. Favarotta. — 28 '/a M. Licata, see p. 303.

271/2 M. Serradifalco, a small town from which Domenico lo Faso Pietrasanta, Duca di Serradifalco (d. 1863) , the editor of the

'Antichita della Sicilia', derived his title. 35 M. <S. Cataldo ;

the village, named after St. Cataldus of Tarentum , with 14,000 inhabitants, is 2 M. to the N. of the station. — Several tunnels.

62!/2 M. Caltanissetta [Albergo della Ferrovia, at the station, R. I72 Il'-i weH spoken of; Concordia, Italia, both tolerable, with trattorie ; *Cafe near the cathedral) , a provincial capital with 30,000 inhabitants, situated on a hill. A band plays in the evening in the piazza in front of the Cathedral (>S. Michele), which contains a few paintings of the later Sicilian school. At the S. end of the town is the Oiardino Pubblico, which commands a striking view of the surrounding mountains and valleys, especially towards the E.

About 2 31. to the E. of Caltanissetta lies the monastery of Badia di S. Spirito , a fine example of the Norman style, erected by Roger I. About 2 M. farther is a mud-volcano, resembling the Maccalubi (p. 292).

At S. Caterina {Loc. Clementi , R. 4 fr.), 79 M. from Palermo and 43y2 M. from Girgenti, the two lines unite. The station is at Xirbi, 3 M. from the miserable little town of S. Caterina. Coming from Girgenti we catch our first glimpse of Mount ^Etna just before reaching this station. The following distances are reckoned from Palermo.

83 M. Imera, beyond which the line crosses the Fiume Salso (Himera Meridionalis). 89 M. Villarosa, a pleasant -looking town, with valuable sulphur-mines in the vicinity. The train now enters a mountainous region, and ascends in windings, across viaducts, and through tunnels. It then threads the tortuous ravine between Calascibetta (p. 300) and Castrogiovanni , affording glimpses of these places high overhead. Parts of the line traverse very unstable ground, and the cuttings are provided with strong vaulted roofs.

Qo1/^ M. Castrogiovanni (Rail. Restaurant J . An omnibus (six times daily; fare l1^ fr.) ascends in about 1 hr. from the station to the town. On the rocks to the left of the entrance stands a Roman altar. Castrogiovanni {Alb. Centrale, Via Roma, tolerable), the Arabic

300 Route 29. CASTROGIOVANNI. From Palermo

Kasr-Yanni, a corruption of Enna , was termed 'inexpugnabilis' by Livy, and has recently been very strongly fortified. It is charm- ingly situated on the level summit of a hill (2605 ft.), in the form of a horseshoe , and open towards the E. Pop. 16,000.

With this mountain the myths of the most ancient inhabitants were intimately connected, and this was the principal scene of the worship of the Demeter-Cora of the aborigines. The fertility of the soil is inferior to what it was in ancient times , when dense forests , brooks, and lakes converted this district into a luxuriant garden, where the hounds, it is said, lost the scent of their game amid the fragrance of the flowers, and the fields yielded a hundred-fold.

Enna or Henna is said to have been founded by Syracuse in B.C. 664, and shared the fortunes of its mother-city. In 402 it fell by treachery into the hands of Dionysius I. ; Agathocles also possessed himself of the town ; in the First Punic War it was captured by the Carthaginians, and finally was betrayed to the Romans. When the slaves under Eunus had thrown themselves into Enna the Romans only regained possession of the place after a fierce struggle. The siege lasted for two years (133-132), and to this day Roman missiles are found at the approach to Castrogio- vanni where the ascent is most gradual. The besieged were reduced by famine rather than by force of arms. In 837 the Saracens in vain endeavoured to storm the town , to which the inhabitants of the whole surrounding district had fled for refuge. In 859 Abbas-ibn-Fahdl gained possession of the fortress through treachery, a prisoner having introduced the Arabs into the town by means of a tunnel on the N. side. The booty was enormous. Some of the women were sent as slaves as far as Bagdad. In 10S7 the Normans took the town. In the middle ages it was again partly fortified.

The main street ascends through the town to the old citadel, known as La Rocca, a very ancient structure, repaired by King Manfred, with numerous towers. The *View from the platform of the highest tower is one of the finest in Sicily , as we stand at the central point of the island (Enna, the 'umbilicus' of Sicily). Towards the E. towers the pyramid of iEtna; to the N. run two mountain -chains, ramifications of the Nebrodian Mts. ; towards the N.N.E. rises Monte Artesino (3915 ft.), beyond the hill on which Calascibetta lies (2880 ft.). On the E. prolongation of the latter lie Leonforte and Agira ; between the two, more in the background, Troina(seep. 301). Farther to the E. is Centuripe. To the N.N. W., on a precipitous ridge between Monte Artesino and the Madonian Mts., are Petralia Soprana and Gangi. To the N.W. S. Calogero, near Termini, is visible ; to the W. the Pizzo di Cammarata ; and to the S. the Hersean Mts., Licata, and the sea. — A walk round the citadel affords a series of beautiful views. ■ — Not a vestige is left of the famous temples of Demeter (Ceres) and Proserpine. The former is supposed to have stood where La Rocca is situated, and the latter on the Monte Salvo, near the convent of the Padri Riformati.

At the other end of the town is a Castle, built by Frederick II. of Aragon.

The Cathedral was founded in 1307; but the octagonal choir is now the only relic of the original building. In the interior, to the left, is a censer on an antique stand. The alabaster bases of the columns, the pulpit, the choir-stalls, and an ancient silver-gilt

to Catania. CENTUEIPE. 29. Route. 301

tabernacle are also note-worthy, and the treasury contains many valuable objects. — The Biblioteca Comunale (librarian, Avvocato Paolo Vetri) contains some good incunabula. — Another fine view is enjoyed from a terrace adjoining the Convento 8. Francesco in the market-place.

As « continue our journey by railway, we enjoy a beau- tiful retrospect of the two rocky nests of Calascibetta and Cas- trogiovanni. — 102^2 M. Leonforte, prettily situated on a hill to the left. (Route from Leonforte to Termini, see p. 291.) The train now enters the valley of the Dittaino (Chrysas). — 108 M. Assaro- Valguarnera, the ancient Assorus, a Sikelian town. To the left we obtain a fine view of Mount ^Etna, which henceforth remains in sight. IIOV2 M. Raddusa.

116M. Agira, formerly 8. Filippo d'Argirb. The town lies on a hill (2130 ft.), about il/2 M- to the N. of the station. It is one of 'the most ancient of the Sikelian cities (Agyrium). The historian Diodorus gives an account of this his native town, and relates how Hercules visited it during his wanderings with Iolaus and was worshipped here. It has thus been suggested by Movers that a Phoenician colony existed here at a remote period. Timoleon colonised the town in 339 and built an agora, temple, and hand- some theatre, of which no traces remain. St. Philip, whose festival is on 1st May , has superseded Hercules as the tutelary genius of the place. Fine marble is found in the vicinity.

About 4 M. to the N. of Agira, in the valley of the brook of the same name, lies Gagliano, the commandant of which, Montaner di Sosa, in 1300, lured the French under the Count of Brienne into an ambuscade, so that 300 French knights were captured or slain. High above Gagliano lies Troina (3650 ft.), the loftiest of the larger towns of Sicily (11,000 inhab.). This was one of the first towns of which the Normans gained possession in 1062. Here in 1063, Roger de Hauteville, with his heroic wife Giuditta (Judith ofEvroult) and 300 warriors, defeated the rebellious inhabitants and 5000 Saracens. The bishopric founded here was transferred to Messina in 1087. In the Matrice S. Maria traces of the ancient Norman structure are distinguishable.

123 M. Catenanuova-Centuripe. On the hill to the left, 5 M. from the station , and rising abruptly above the valley of the Simeto, is situated Centuripe, or, as it was called until recently, Centorbi {Albergo della Pace, in the piazza, very poor), with 9000 inhabitants. Magnificent view of iEtna. In ancient times the situation of Centuripae was compared with that of Eryx. During the Roman period this was an important place. In 1233 it was destroyed by Frederick II. on account of its disaffection, and the population removed to Augusta (p. 350). Remains of a few Roman buildings are preserved. Numerous vases, terracottas, coins, and cut stones have been found in the neighbourhood. Antonio Came- rano possesses a collection of gems and terracottas. Between the town and station are some sulphur-mines. An introduction to the Sindaco is desirable.

The train still traverses the valley of the Dittaino for a short

302 Route 29. CALTAGIRONE.

time. A picturesque view is obtained of Centuripe on the hill to the left, and of JEtna farther on. 125'/2M. Muglia; 130 M. Sferro. A view is now obtained, to the right" of the exuberantly fertile Piano di Catania, which begins here. 133V2 M- Gerbini. Beyond (137 M.) Portiere Stella the train crosses the Simeto, which receives the Dittaino a little to the S. — 138 M. Simeto; 1391/2 M. Motta S. Anastasia ; the town, with a castle on a precipitous basaltic cone, is l!/2 M. to the N. 146 M. Bicocca (no restaurant), where the line unites with that from Syracuse to Catania (R. 38). Before Catania is reached, the sea is again visible ; the line passes through an old stream of lava by means of a tunnel. 151 M. Catania, see p. 336.

Fkom Casteogiovanni to Catania via Caltagirone.

From Castrogiovanni to Caltagirone, 30 M. The bridle-path, passing numerous grottoes and caverns, descends to the S. In 2 hrs. the Lago Per- gusa is reached, the fabled locality whence Pluto carried off Proserpine. Of the shady and lofty trees, the fragrant flowers on the banks of the lake covered with swans, and the 'perpetuum ver' of Ovid not a trace remains. The lake, with its clear, dark blue water, presents a pleasant appearance in spring only. At other times, like the neighbouring Stagni- cello, it is a dirty pond, used by the inhabitants for steeping their flax.

From the lake to Piazza a ride of 13 31. Before reaching Piazza we join the carriage-road which leads from Calianissetta (p. 299) via Pietraperzia (1460 ft.) and Barrafranca to (39 SI.) Piazza.

Piazza Armerina (Albergo del Sole), Sicil. Chiazza, is a town with 20,000 inhabitants. We follow the Terranova road towards the S. to S. Cono, where the road to Caltagirone diverges to the left.

Caltagirone ("Albergo Centrale), regarded as the most civilised provincial town in Sicily (32,400 inhab.). Although 2170 ft. above the sea-level, it is well-built and possesses a fine promenade and market-place, whence a lofty flight of steps ascends to the old castle. The aristocracy of the place is zealous in promoting public education. Pottery is the staple commodity , and the traveller may purchase very characteristic, well-exe- cuted figures of Sicilians and Calabrians, in their national costumes. The town commands a magnificent view in every direction.

From Caltagirone diligence to Leone in 7 hrs. (25 M. ; see p. 349). On the mountain-range to the right lie the towns of Grammichele , Mineo (the ancient Menae, founded by Ducetius, and taken by the Saracens in 840), and Militello. Near Favarolta the road passes the famous Lacns Palicorum (Lago de1 Palici), which is generally 490 ft. in circumference and 13 ft. deep in the middle. In dry seasons it sometimes disappears entirely. Two apertures (fratres Palici) in the centre emit carbonic acid gas with such force that the water is forced upwards to a height of 2 ft., and the whole surface is agitated as if boiling. Birds are suffocated in attempting to fly across the lake, and horses and oxen experience difficulty in breathing as soon as they enter the water. The ancients regarded the spot as sacred and the peculiar resort of the gods. The Dii Palici were believed to he sons of Zeus and the nymph Thalia. A sumptuous temple was accordingly erected here, to which the pious flocked from all quarters, but every vestige of it has now disappeared. Fugitive slaves found an asylum in this temple. An oath sworn by the Dii Palici was deemed peculiarly solemn. At no great distance from this spot Ducetius founded the town of Palica, which hat also left no trace of its existence. The name , however, may still be re- cognised in Patagonia, a small medieval town, once the property of the naval hero Roger Loria. Below Palagonia the road ascends to the Fondact Tre Fonlane; to the right lies Scordia (p. 349), terminus of the branch railway from Valsovoia, on which Leone is a station.

303

30. From Girgenti to Syracuse via Palma, Licata, Terranova, Modica ( Val d'Ispica), and Palazzolo.

From Girgenti to Syracuse the traveller may either select the coast- route which we are about to describe, or take the train via, Catania (E. 29) and the steamer which leaves Porto Empedocle once weekly (Sat. afternoon ; see p. 293) ; embarcation or landing 1 fr. — The coast-route requires 4 days. 1st Day: Palma, 13 M. (or Licata, 24 M.); 2nd: Ride to Licata (11 M.), and thence by railway to Terranova, 22'/2 M. (Vittoria 17 M. farther); 3rd: Modica, 43 M. (or 26 M. from Vittoria); 4th: Visit the Val d'Ispica, and proceed by railway from Spaccaforno to Syracuse, 331/2 M. — This tour is on the whole unattractive, and is seldom made, so that the practical hints in- the following description are open to correction. — Travellers are recommended to digress at the station of Koto to (about 16 M.) Palazzolo and to proceed thence to (27 M.) Syracuse.

The road from Girgenti (diligence daily at 5a. m.)to Palma crosses the Fiume di S. Biagio, and traverses the coast- plain, the vege- tation of which is noteworthy for the large growth of dwarf-palms (Chamserops humilis). On the other side of the Naro the road ascends to the table-land, where, on a height (1215 ft.) to the left, is situated Favara (17,000 inhab.), with a picturesque chateau of the Chiaramonte of the 14th century. On the summit of a hill (1940 ft.) farther to the left rises Naro (11,000 inhab.), also pos- sessing a castle of the Chiaramonte family. On the S.W. side of the town are several small catacombs of Christian origin. Consigliere Riolo possesses a small collection of Greek and Roman antiquities.

13M. Palma di Montechiaro (poor Inn), an unattractive town with 15,000 inhab., where a halt is seldom made unless for the night.

We descend through a beautiful valley with gigantic almond-trees (with the largest almonds in Sicily), skirting the coast, to Licata, on the Fiume Salso, the ancient Himera Meridionalis.

24M. Licata {Alb. Imera; Alb. Ventrale; La Bella Sicilia; Brit. andAmer. vice-consuls), with 18,000 inhab., occupies the site of the town which, after the destruction of Gela by the Mamertines about 280 , the Tyrant Phintias of Acragas erected and named after himself. It lies at the base of the hill of Poggio di S. Angelo, the Greek Ex-vo^os.

The place was an ancient Phoenician-Carthaginian fortification, garri- soned by the Carthaginians during their war with Agathocles in 311, whilst the latter was posted on the opposite side of the river. Here in 256 Regulus, before his expedition to Africa, vanquished the Carthaginian fleet in one of the greatest naval battles on record, in which not fewer than 300,000 men were engaged. Carthalo, favoured by a storm, destroyed a large fleet of Roman transports on this coast in 249.

Licata (Alicata), the chief trading town on the S. coast of Sicily, exports sulphur extensively. — Railway from Licata to Canicatti, see p. 299.

From Licata to Terranova, 221/2 M., railway in iy4 hr. (two trains daily). As far as (7 M.) Falconara, a modern residence of Baron Bordonaro, wheat-fields are traversed. 15 M. Butera; on the mountain-slope to the left lies the small town of Butera (1320 ft.), which was held by the Saracens from 853 to 1089. The Prince of

304 Route 30. TERRANOVA. From Girgenti

Butera was the chief of the Sicilian grandees. The sterileplain through which we pass is the Campi Qeloi of Virgil.

221/2 M. Terranova. — Inns. Albergo Fenice, well spoken of; Albekgo Gela ; Casa Mobigliata kept by Luigi La Mantia, Strada Marina, near the Piazza del Duomo. — Trattoria Trinacria, well spoken of. — British Vice-constil.

Terranova, a seaport with 17,000 inhab., founded by the Emp. Frederick II. , and situated on a hill, is intersected by the long Corso from W. to E. It contains little to interest the traveller. Sign. Carlo Navarra possesses a collection of fine ancient vases found in the neighbourhood, to which he kindly admits visitors. The height to the W., on the left of the road to Licata (Capo Soprano), was the ancient Necropolis, where numerous vases have been found.

In and near Terranova are the remains of Gela , where the dramatist ^Eschylus died, B.C. 456.

Gela, founded in 689 by a Dorian colony under Antiphemus of Rhodes and Entimus of Crete, so rapidly attained to prosperity that in 582 it was itself in a position to send forth a colony to found Acragas. After a period of aristocratic government, Hippocrates obtained the supreme power. Under his rule Gela rose to the zenith of its prosperity (498- 491). His successor Gelon transferred the seat of government of the Deinomenides to Syracuse, carrying with him one-half of the population of Gela. The remainder he left under the rule of his brother Hiero. In 405 Gela was captured and destroyed by the Carthaginians under Ha- milcar. The description given by Diodorus (xiii.) proves that the town lay to the E. of the river Gela, on the same site as the modern Terranova. The remains of a Doric Temple are still standing about '/a M. to the E. of the town (Piazza del Molino a Vento) ; and the river is 300 paces beyond them. This is popularly supposed to have been the temple of Apollo, whose celebrated statue was sent by Hamilcar to Tyre, where it was found by Alexander the Great. Timoleon re-erected the town and peopled it with colonists. Agathocles subsequently caused 5000 of the inhabitants to be put to the sword , and the Mamertines destroyed the town about B.C. 282. Since that period it has disappeared from the pages of history.

Between Terranova (diligence at 5 a.m.) and (43 M.) Vittoria is a good and much-used carriage road, which crosses the rivers Oela and Durillo. — 17 M. Vittoria (Albergo Centrale Vittoria, fair), a town with about 20,000 inhabitants.

The archaeologist is recommended to take the route from Vittoria to Modica via, Scoglitti (Brit, vice-consul) , the port of Vittoria, passing the site of the ancient Camarina (19 M.). Camarina was founded by Syracuse in 599, and destroyed in 553 for attempting to assert its independence, but was re-erected by Hippocrates of Gela in 492 after the battle of the Helorus (Tellaro or Abisso). Gelon again depopulated the town in 4S4 and transplanted its inhabitants to Syracuse, but it was colonised a second time by Gela in 461. In 405 Dionysius on his retreat compelled the inhabitants to follow him, and the town was destroyed by the Carthaginians. In 339 it was re-colonised by Timoleon, but soon afterwards fell into the hands of the Romans. In A.D. 853 it was entirely destroyed by Abbas-ibn-Fahdl. Camarina was about 5 M. in circumference, and lay to the E. of the river Camarana (ancient Hipparis), at the point where the chapel of the Madonna di Camarana now stands on a sandhill, 100 ft. in height.

From Scoglitti we may take the steamer mentioned at p 276 to Syra- cuse; or proceed via (5'/2 M.) S. Croce (poor inn) to (11 M.) Scicli (p. 305), where we reach the railway from Modica to Syracuse.

From Vittoria to Modica diligence daily, except Sundays fare 5 fr. 40 c. (carriage 17-20 fr.).

to Syracuse. MODICA. 30. Route. 305

2OV2 M. C6miso, a country-town with 18,000 inhabitants. The famous fountain of Diana, the water of which refused to mingle with wine when drawn by women of impure character, was situated here. Beyond Comiso the road ascends , affording a fine view of Mt. yEtna, the coast-plain, and the sea. It then traverses a plateau, sloping towards the E. and intersected by several deep and romantic ravines. Descending to the valley, we perceive on the left —

33l/2 M. Ragusa, a country-town with 31,000 inhab. , most romantically situated, probably the ancient Hybla Heraea. It con- sists of Ragusa Superiore and Inferiore, each possessing its own administration, post-office, etc. ; the latter contains the bestLocanda. The whole of the environs belong to Baron Arezzo di Donnafugata, who possesses a cotton-factory here. The neighbouring rocks contain numerous grottoes. Count Bernardo Cabrera (d. 1423), an adventurer who boldly attempted to possess himself of the crown of Sicily, is interred in the church of the Capuchins.

43 M. Modica (*Locanda Bella Italia, with trattoria, R. li/^fr. ; Locanda of Maestro Oiorgio, near the Sotto-Prefettura ; Locanda Nuova, etc.), with 41,300 inhab., the capital of the ancient county of that name, lies in a rocky valley, consisting of two ravines which unite in the town. The height between the val- leys affords a survey of the three arms of the town.

From Modica a visit may be paid to the interesting and pictur- esque *Val or Cava d'Ispica, a rocky ravine, in the limestone rock (6-8 M. ; very rough road; guide advisable). The road to Spaccaforno is quitted beyond the road which descends to Scicli, and we proceed to the left to the upper part of the valley, at the S.E. exit from which lies Spaccaforno.

Sicily contains an extraordinarily large number of rock -tombs, often wrongly named Ddieri. Tombs of this kind have been found on the W. side of the island at Caltabelotta, Siculiana, and Raffadale, and on the S.E. around Monte Lauro; also to the N. of Syracuse as far as a point beyond Cape S. Croce, and at Maletto and Bronte to the W. of jEtna. They may perhaps be attributed to the Sicanians. The grottoes of the Val cTIspica are the most numerous and present the greatest variety. Some of them were used as habitations at a later date. They either con- sist of different stories, connected in the interior by circular apertures, or of single chambers , the entrances to which in the rock are almost invariably at least the height of a man above the ground. Rings hewn in stone which are seen here probably served some purpose of domestic economy. As most of the grottoes still contain graves, it is probable that this formed the Necropolis of an ancient town, which lay upon the neigh- bouring plateau. Others believe that the caverns are the relics of a very ancient town of rock-dwellers. Numerous inscriptions prove that they were used as a burial-place by the Christians in the 4th century. The most celebrated of the grottoes are the so-called Castello iflspica, the Spelonca Grossa, the Qrotta del Covvo, the Grotto, del Venlo, etc.

From Modica to Syracuse, 57 M., railway in about 3'/2 "rs- (fares 10 fr. 40, 7 fr. 30, 4 fr. 70 c); two trains daily. — The line runs to the S.W. to (6 M.) Scicli (Locanda del Carmine; Loc. de' Carceri), a town with 12,000 inhab. ; then turns towards the sea, and beyond (12^2 M.) Sampieri skirts the coast.

Baedekeb. Italy III. 11th Edition. 20

306 Route 30. NOTO. From Oirgenti

I8I/2 M. Pozzallo, with 4100 inhab. (steamer to Syracuse, see p. 276). — The line now turns inland, towards the N.E. To the right we enjoy picturesque glimpses of the S.E. extremity of Sicily, the rugged promontory of Passero ( Pachynum) , with its islands, harbours (Porto d' Vlisse, Porto Palo), tunny-fisheries (tonnare), and the remains of the ancient city of Helorus on the left bank of the river, now called Stampaci.

24 M. Spaccaforno, a town of 8800 inhab., at the entrance to the Val d'Ispica (p. 305).

An excursion may be made from Spaccaforno by a carriage-road to (HV2 M.) Pachino and the Capo Passero. Road from Pachino to Nolo, 15 M., see below.

271/2 M. Bosolini, possibly on the site of the Syracusan colony of Casmenae, founded B.C. 644. — 32 M. S. PaOlo.

371/2 M. Noto (Vittoria, with a good trattoria ; Aquila cfOro, op- posite the Dominican monastery, to the right ; Trattoria Roncd), a pleasant and thriving town with 18,300 inhab. , contains handsome palaces of the provincial aristocracy. The present town was founded in 1703, 5 M. from the site of an earlier one, which was destroyed by an earthquake in 1693. Of the older Noto the ruins are still visible.

About 4 M. to the S. of Noto , between the rivers Falconara (Asina- rus) and Tellaro (Helorus) , stands La Pizzuta , a fragment of a Greek column, about 30 ft. in height. It is said to be a remnant of the monument erected by the Syracusans in the bed of the Asinarus after the sanguinary defeat of the Athenians under Nicias (Sept., 413).

Beyond Noto the train passes ^41]/2 M.) Avola (13,000 inhab.), where almond-trees and the sugar-cane flourish, approaches the coast, and beyond (47 M.) Cassibile crosses the river Cassibile (an- cient Cacyparis), on the banks of which Demosthenes and 6000 Athenians had to surrender in 413. Thence through the coast-plain via (52 M.) 8. Teresa Longarini to —

57 M. Syracuse, see p. 350.

About 19 M. to the N. of Modica, as far to the N."W. of Noto, and 27 M. to the W. of Syracuse , and connected with all three by high-roads, lies — ■

Falazzolo Acreide. — Albekgo d'Italia, Via Garibaldi 60, with trattoria, small but clean; Locanda Centralis, kept by the post-master, larger but not so comfortable. — The Guardia dell' Antichila lives at the W. end of the town.

Palazzolo Acreide, the Acrae of the Greeks (Arabic el-Akrdt, afterwards Placeolum, the Balensul of Edrisi), is one of the most interesting towns of Sicily. It has 11,000 inhabitants. Acrs was founded by the Syracusans in B.C. 664, and formed part of their territory until Syracuse itself was conquered by Marcellus. The town apparently escaped destruction down to the time of the Saracenic wars.

The Acropolis and the older part of the town lay on the hill which rises above the modern town, and were accessible from the

to Syracuse. PALAZZOLO ACREIDE. 30. Route. 307

B. only. The top affords a fine view in every direction. The ap- proach from the E. was protected by latomiae. Tombs of all periods have been discovered here, some being of Greek origin with reliefs, others of the early Christian period. Several slabs of stone, with Greek inscriptions, have recently been excavated. We may also vi&it the so-called Tempio Ferale (key to be brought from the town), some water-conduits, and a small Theatre, looking to the N., whence the small town of Buscemi is visible on a hill above a deep ravine. The theatre is of late Greek origin, and contains twelve tiers of seats for 600 spectators. Adjacent to it is the Odeon, or, according to others, a bath-establishment. To the S. of the Acropolis rises the Monte Pineta, with numerous mortuary chambers (p. 305). — In the Con- trada del Santicelli, a valley 1 1/% M. to the S. of Pineta, are the curious bas-reliefs, unfortunately mutilated, of the 'Santoni'. They appear to have pertained to a burial-place, and on most of them the figure of a goddess (supposed to be Cybele) and beside her Hermes may be distinguished. Not far from this spot is an extensive burial-ground, the Acrocoro della Torre , where some hundreds of sarcophagi have been opened. Many of them contained well-preserved skulls. From E. to W. the skeletons of women were found to have been interred, from N. to S. those of men. — The collection of ancient vases, etc., of Baron Judica (Palazzo Judica ; previous application desirable), who made the excavations on the Acropolis, is in a deplorably neglected condition, and, like that of the Cure Bonelli, is interesting to the scientific only.

From Palazzolo to Syracuse, 27 M., diligence every morning, in about 6 hrs. , via, Floridia. (Another good road leads via Canicat- tini.) A little beyond Monte Grosse, the first post-station, Syracuse becomes visible in the distance. The towns to the left are Cassaro and Ferla. Farther to the N. is Sortino, on an eminence. The road leads through the small town of S. Paolo, and then through Floridia, a town with 9000 inhab., in the midst of corn-fields, vineyards, and olive-groves. Floridia is about 7l/% M. from Syracuse. On a hill to the left, about halfway , is the village of Belvedere (p. 360). — Syracuse, see p. 350.

Near Floridia is the Cava di Spampinato (or Culatre.Uo), a highly ro- mantic gorge , through which the Athenians forced their way on their retreat to the 'Akraion Lepas' (Acraean Rock) in B. C. 413. At the rock, however, which was occupied by the Syracusans, they were repulsed (comp. p. 353). A visit to the pass takes 5 hrs. (guide necessary; don- keys at Floridia).

31. From Palermo to Messina by the Coast.

About 175 31. Railway from Palermo to Cefalii, 42'/2 M., in about 3hrs. (change carriages at Termini), and from Oliveri to Messina, 38 M , in 2l/i hrs. (on both lines two trains daily, morning and evening). From Cefalii to Oliveri Diligence (Vettura Corriera) daily in about 20 hrs. The hours of departure vary, being sometimes in the morning and sometimes in the evening. The longest halt on the way is not half-an-hour. The stage from Cefalii to Oaslel Tusa takes 3'/4 hrs.; from Castel Tusa to 5. Stefano

20*

308 Route 31. HIMERA. From Palermo

2 hrs. 35 min. (in the reverse direction 1 hr. 10 min.); from S. Stefano to S. Agata 3% hrs.; from S. Agata to Gioiosa 4'A hrs. (in the reverse direction 3 hr. 55 min.) : from Gioiosa to Palti 1 hr. 50 min. (reverse, 1 hr. 20 min.); from Patti to Oliveri abont I1/2 hr. — This route is one of the most beautiful in Sicily, but travelling so far by diligence is fatiguing.

Steamers between Palermo and Messina three times a week: Societti Florio-Rubatlino twice direct in 13 hrs. (fares 32 fr. 60 or 23 fr. 60 c, incl. provisions), starting from Palermo on Mon. and Wed. at 5 p.m., and arriving at Messina on Tues. and Thurs. at 6 a.m. (from Messina on Mon. 6 p.m. and Sat. 5 p.m., arrival at Palermo on Tues. and Sun. at 6 a.m.); and once indirectly, leaving Palermo on Frid. at 6 a.m., leaving Cefalii at 10.30, S. Stefano at 1 p.m., S. Agata at 3, Capo d'Orlando at 5, and Patti at 7.30, and reaching Milazzo at 9.30 ; leaving Milazzo again on Sat. at 4 a.m., and reaching Messina at 7.20 a.m. (From Messina on Wed. at 5 a.m., from Milazzo at 9.20, from Patti at noon, reaching Capo d'Orlando at 1.50 p.m., S. Agata at 3.20, S. Stefano at 6, Cefalii at 8.15, and Palermo at midnight.)

From Palermo to Termini, see p. 290. The first part of the route is bleak and treeless, and, as its appearance indicates, is rendered unhealthy by malaria. The railway crosses the valley of the Fiume Torto, and soon reaches (30 M. from Palermo) Buonfornello.

The houses to the left of the former high-road stand on the ruins of a Doric temple which has not yet been excavated. On the height to the right lay Himera, the westernmost town of the Greeks on the N. coast of Sicily , the birthplace (about 630) of Stesichorus , originally called Tisias , the perfecter of the Greek chorus, who is said to have protected his native town against the tyranny of Phalaris. If we ascend the abrupt hill, overgrown with sumach, we reach a table-land which gradually slopes downward from the small town of La Signora. To the E. flows the Himera Septentrionalis, or Fiume Grande; on the W. a small valley, in which tombs have been discovered, separates the town from the plateau. To the N. the hills descend precipitously to the plain of the coast; on this side the town was defended by massive walls.

Himera was founded by Zanclseans in 648. One of the greatest battles ever fought by the Greeks took place on behalf of the citizens in 480, when Gelon and Theron surprised Hamilcar, the Carthaginian, while he was besieging the town, and annihilated his army. He himself is said to have sought a voluntary death in the sacrificial fire, in order to appease the wrath of the gods. The battle was probably earlier than that of Sala- mis, though Greek historians have stated that both were fought on the same day. In 409 Hannibal , son of Gisgon and grandson of Hamilcar, captured the town and razed it to the ground , after most of the in- habitants had abandoned it by night, and since that period no attempt has been made to re-erect it.

The Fiume Grande, with the Fiume Salso (p. 299), bisects the island, and has frequently formed a political frontier (under the Romans and under Frederick II.). Beyond the Fiume Grande the railway traverses a malarious district. To the right are obtained beautiful glimpses of the fissured valleys of the Madonia Mts. 34 M. Campofelice; opposite is Roccella. Farther up in the valley traversed by the Fiume lies Collesano, a town which possesses remnants of walls of an unknown period. Above the mountains

to Messina. CEFALU. 31. Route. 309

enclosing the valley tower the Monte S. Salvatore (6265ft.) and the Pizzo Antenna (6480 ft.), the highest peaks of the Madonian Mountains. 37 J/2 M. Lascari. On the height to the right is Gratteri; then the Gibilmanna, i.e. the 'manna-mountain' (3590 ft.). The last part of the railway leads through a beautiful, cultivated district, in which considerable quantities of manna are obtained from the exudations of the manna-tree (Fraxinus ornus)

42y2 M. Cefalu; [Albergo Centrale, Italia, both with trattoria and well spoken of; the latter, in the Piazza del Duomo, is plain; Luigi PinteTero is a good guide), the ancient Cephaloedium, the present terminus of the railway, a thriving but dirty town, in- fested by beggars, with 14,200 inhab., who are engaged in trading, seafaring, and the sardine fishery. It lies at the base of a barren and precipitous promontory on which the ancient town stood. The limestone rock, composed almost entirely of fossils, which towers above the town, bears the fragments of a mediaeval Castle and the remains of a polygonal structure (closed; custodians's house at the end of the Salita dei Saraceni). To the latter a vault was added during the Roman period, and it was afterwards converted into a Christian place of worship. The summit, on which there are remains of a Norman castle , commands a magnificent survey of the N. coast and the lofty mountains as far as Palermo.

Cephaloedium is mentioned in history for the first time in 397 in connection with the wars between Dionysius I. and Carthage, and oc- casionally during the Roman period. In 837 the Arabs besieged it un- successfully, but captured it in 858. In 1129 when King Roger was returning from Naples, and his vessel was in danger of shipwreck, he is said to have vowed to erect a church to Christ and the Apostles on the spot where he should be permitted to land. The vessel was driven ashore at Cefalu, and he accordingly began to build a handsome cathedral here. The charter of foundation, dating from 1145 , and still preserved in the episcopal archives, contains, however, no allusion to the above story.

The *Cathbdeal, a noble monument of Norman architecture, lies to the W. at the foot of the promontory, and around it the modern town has sprung up. The facade rests upon gigantic blocks of hewn stone, which probably formed part of an earlier building. Two imposing towers of four stories, connected by a colonnade, flank the facade , recalling the huge towers of St. Etienne at Caen erected by William the Conqueror. The walls of the colonnade were covered with mosaics, now destroyed, in memory of King Roger and of his successors who continued the building. The W. entrance is coeval with the foundation. The portal is of unique construction. The apses are decorated externally, but the outside is otherwise plain.

The church, built in the form of a Latin cross, possesses a nave, two aisles, and three apses. Nave double the width of the aisles. Length 243, width 92 ft. The pointed vaulting of the nave and aisles is supported by fifteen columns of granite and one of cipollino. The "'Mosaics in the tribune are the most ancient and perfect in Sicily, and most resemble those preserved in the monasteries on Mt. Athos. The beautifully executed figure of the Saviour was completed in 1148. A number of other figures, Mary with four archangels, prophets and saints, appear from their selection to have been the work of Greek artists. In the transepts once stood two of

310 Route 31. MISTRETTA. From Palermo

the sarcophagi of porphyry which are now in the cathedral of Palermo, and contain the relics of the emperors Henry VI. and Frederick II.

The fine * Cloisters adjoining the church resemble those at Monreale hut are not so well preserved.

The heirs of the late Baron Mandralisca possess a small col- lection of antiquities here, including almost all the ohjects of in- terest found in the island of Lipari (p. 322).

The high road leads from Cefalu to (11 M.J Finale, on the Fiume di Pollina, the ancient Monalus. The loftily situated little town of Pollina, 3 M. inland, is supposed to he the ancient Apol- lonia , which Timoleon delivered from its tyrant Leptines.

171/2 M. Castel di Tusa. Near it, on an eminence to the E., lay Halaesa or Alaesa, founded in 403 by the tyrant Archonides of Herhita. The town was an important place under the Romans; its ruins are 2 M. in circumference. It is skirted by the Alesus, now Fiume di Pettineo. The road crosses this river, and then the Fiume Eeitano, in the valley of which, 9 M. inland, lies the town of Mistretta (12,000 inhab.), the ancient Amestratus.

3272 M. S. Stefano di Camastra, with 5000 inhab., stands on an eminence by the sea. From the W. side of the town there is a fine view of the environs, the sea, and the valley below. Cheese made from sheep's milk (cacio cavallo) and wool are the staple products.

Between S. Stefano and S. Agata lies the Bosco di Caronia, the largest forest in Sicily. The road crosses numerous brooks, and is bordered by the myrtle, the mastix , and the cistus-rose. It passes the harbour of Caronia (6 M. from S. Stefano), the Calacte ('beautiful shore'), founded by Ducetius in 440, and then crosses the Fiumara of S. Fratello, or Furiano, which flows through the midst of a perfect grove of oleanders.

The town of S. Fratello (7700 inhab.) , 41/2 M. inland, is one of the Lombard colonies which accompanied Adelaide of Monferrat, wife of Roger I., to Sicily. Others established themselves at Piazza, Nicosia, Aidone, Randazzo, Sperlinga, Capizzi, Maniace, etc. The Lombard dialect is still spoken at S. Fratello, Piazza, Nicosia, and Aidone. Near S. Fratello is the grotto of San Teodoro, containing many fossil bones of different species of mammalia.

Farther on is Acqua Dolce, 11 M. from Caronia.

52 M. S. Agata del Militello is a small town with a tolerable inn (Strada dei Medici, No. 45). The road crosses the beds of numerous torrents, in the first of which, the Rosamarina, bordered by ole- anders, are the fragments of a Roman bridge. To the right lies S. Marco, probably the ancient Aluntium, whence it is also called S. Marco di Alunzio. The ruins of a medieval palace in the Fiumara Zapulla are next passed. Between the mouth of this torrent and Capo d'Orlando was fought, 4th July, 1299, the great naval battle in which Frederick II. was defeated by the united fleets of Catalonia and Anjou under Roger Loria. On the height to the right, facing us , we observe the small town of Naso, where the silk-culture is

to Messina. PATTI. 31. Route. 311

extensively carried on. The whole district resembles a luxuriant orchard. As soon, however, as we pass —

61 M. Capo d'Orlando, the extreme rocky point (305 ft. J of which lies to the left of the road, the appearance of the country is changed, and the mountains now rise abruptly from the sea. Capo d'Orlando is 75 M. as the crow flies from Palermo, which is visible from the end of the promontory in clear weather. The broad Fiumara of Naso and the picturesque Fiumara of Brolo , with the small town of that name, are next reached; then Piraino. The traveller may proceed, direct hence via Sorrentini to Patti, and thus considerably shorten his journey. A high mountain must, how- ever, be traversed (2610 ft.), while the coast-route via Capo Calava is remarkably picturesque.

The road ascends from a valley to (70^2 M.J Giojosa (Sicil. Giujusa ; 5000 inhab. J , winds at a great height above the sea round the abrupt granite promontory of Capo Calava, which it penetrates by a short tunnel, and descends to the Marina of Patti, whence it again ascends through an avenue of pepper-trees.

76!/2 M. Patti (small Locanda~), an episcopal residence with 9400 inhab., and large monasteries, is unhealthy, notwithstanding its fine situation on the hill. In the modernised Cathedral is interred Adelasia, mother of King Roger, and widow of Count Roger and of King Baldwin of Jerusalem. The wealthiest family in this district is that of the barons of Sciacca, who possess a beautiful chateau on the Scala, 3 M. to the N. of Patti. To the same family belong the environs of Tyndaris.

The road crosses a fiumara and winds up the slope of the Monte Pignatara (1210 ft.). Capo Tindaro, the promontory to the left (920 ft), rising sheer from the sea and well worth visiting, consists of granite, gneiss, and above these a stratum of limestone. It was once the site of Tyndaris (road-side inn, closed in winter).

Tyndaris, one of the latest Greek colonies in Sicily, was founded in 396 by Dionysius I. with Locrians and Peloponnesian Messenians. It soon rose to prosperity, at an early period became allied to Timoleon, and remained faithful to the Romans during the Punic wars. It was therefore favoured by the Romans, and attained to great power and wealth. During the Christian period it became the seat of a bishop. The exact date of its destruction is unknown. Before the time of Pliny a small part of the town was precipitated into the sea by a landslip.

The course of the old town-walls can still be traced. Remains of a Theatre and two mosaic pavements have been preserved. The internal diameter of the theatre is 212 ft., orchestra 77 ft.; the cavea is divided into nine cunei , and contains twenty-seven tiers of seats. Several Roman statues found here are now in the museum of Palermo. (Key kept by the custodian of the antiquities.) — The fatigue of ascending the promontory, on which theTe is a telegraph tower, is amply repaid by the magnificent view it affords of the sea, Milazzo, the Lipari Islands, the Neptunian Mts., and the Pizzo di Tripi with its ruins; then, on the other side of a deep 'fiumara',

312 Route 31. MILAZZO. From Palermo

Novara, on the slope of the conical Rocca di Novara, on which Abacaenum once lay; and lastly iEtna.

Below the extremity of Capo Tindaro is the Stalactite Grotto of Fata Donnavilla , popularly supposed to he haunted hy a fairy who kidnaps brides on their wedding-night, and to be identical with the rata (fairy) Morgana. The curious may reach the entrance hy being lowered over the cliff with ropes.

The road then descends to the bay of Oliveri between Tyndaris and Milazzo , the present terminus of the Railway to Messina Cp- 307).

The fertile plain through which the railway runs, passing (l3/4 M.) Falcone, (5 M.) Castroreale, and (7 M.J Castroreale Bagni, is intersected by a number of torrents which frequently prove very destructive. The largest of these are the Oliveri, Arancia, Mazzarra, and degli Aranci, on which last are situated the sulphureous and chalybeate baths of Termini di Castro (well fitted up).

10 M. Barcellona, pleasantly situated on the Longano, is a pros- perous town of 21,000 inhab. , with sulphur-baths (much fre- quented from May to September) and the flourishing suburb of Pozzo di Gotto. It was, perhaps, in this neighbourhood that Hiero of Syracuse defeated the Mamertines in 269 (comp. p. 315), but the Longanus, on which the battle took place, is supposed by some authorities to be a river to the E. of Mylae.

The railway crosses the fiumare Cantone, Landro, and 8. Lucia, and passes through the vast vineyards of the Neapolitan ex-minister Cassisi. Emp. Frederick II. possessed a large gamepark here.

15'/2 M. Milazzo [Locanda Villa Nuova, tolerable; Albergo $ Trattoria Stella d' Italia, both in the main street; Brit, and Amer. vice-consuls), the ancient Mylae, a town with 13,000 inhab., possesses a good harbour. The pinnacles of the Castle, erected by Charles V., restored in the 17th cent., and now a prison, command a charming *View (admission obtained on application to the com- mandant).

Mylae was founded before B.C. 716 by colonists from Messana-Zancle, and remained subject to the Messenians, until conquered by the Athe- nians in 427. In 394 the citizens of Naxos and Catania, who had been banished by Dinnysius, occupied Jlylse for a short time, but were soon expelled by the Messenians. Here in 260Duilius gained for the Romans their first naval victory, having by means of his boarding-bridges assimilated the naval battle to a conflict on land. No ancient remains have been dis- covered here, as in the middle ages Milazzo was frequently altered and repeatedly besieged. The castle sustained sieges from the Due de Vivonne in 1675 and during the Spanish war of succession. On 20th July, 1860, Garibaldi drove the Neapolitan general Bosco back into the castle, and compelled him to capitulate on condition of being allowed a free retreat.

A drive on the well-cultivated peninsula to the Capo di Milazzo (about 4'/2 M. from the town; carr. 4 fr.), affording beautiful glimpses through the foliage, of the sea on both sides, is re- commended. The lighthouse commands a fine view. Extensive tunny -fisheries. — Boat with two rowers from the tonnara to Tyndaris in 2-2 ]/2 nrs-> 10-12 fr.; to Capo d'Oriando in 4hrs., 20 fr.

to Messina. ROMETTA. 31. Route. 313

The line traverses the plain of the coast via, (18 M.) S. Filippo Archi and (19 M.) 8. Lucia to (22'^ M.) Venetico - Spadafora. Venetico lies to the right, Spadafora on the coast, to the left. In the bay to the left the fleet of Sextus Pompeius was annihilated by Agrippa. On the heights to the right are S. Pier Niceto and Mon- forte S. Oiorgio. 24y2 M. Rometta, the station for the small town of that name , situated to the right among the mountains, on a summit surrounded by precipitous cliffs, where the Christians main- tained themselves down to 965. Beyond the Saponara the train reaches (26 M.) Saponara- Bauso ; the villages of these names are situated to the right and left. The line now turns to the Tight and ascends the Gullo valley to (28i/2 M.) Gesso; the small town, where the Saracens remained until a late period, lies on a hill to the left. It then penetrates the Neptunian Mts. by a long tunnel, and descends in a wide curve to the right to (38 M.) Messina.

From Gesso to Messina across the hills, either on foot or in an open carriage (about 2l/2hrs.). If time permit this is far preferable to the rail- way. The luxuriant fertility of the fields soon diminishes, and we reach the zone of the heath and grass which clothe the precipitous slopes of the Neptunian Mts. Beautiful retrospect. The summit of the pass, the so- called * Telegrafo, or Colli di San Rizzo (1720 ft.), commands an extensive view (still finer from the ruined tower, 10 min. above) : at our feet lies the strait of Messina, to the left is the Faro, opposite to it Scilla in Ca- labria, then (on a projecting angle) S. Giovanni, and farther to the right Reggio ; the forests of the lofty Aspromonte occupy the extremity of the Calabrian peninsula; and in front of the spectator extends the sickle (Zancle) shaped harbour of Messina. The road descends to a profound and sinuous ravine. (The Abbadiazza, see p. 321.)

32. Messina.

Arrival by Sea. Passengers are landed in small boats (tariff 1 fr., with or without luggage) at the Scala di Marmo, in front of the Palazzo Municipale (PI. F, 3). Luggage is slightly scrutinised at the dogana by officers of the municipal customs. Porter for ordinary luggage from the Dogana to a hotel, 1 fr. — • One-horse carriage from the railway-station to the town T& c, with luggage 1 fr.

Hotels. "Alb. Trinacria, Strada Garibaldi 102, R., L., & A. 3-5, B. 1, dej. 3, D. il/i, (both incl. wine), pens. 8-12, omn. 3/t fr., bargain advisable, English spoken; "Vittoria (PI. a; F, 3, 4), Strada Garibaldi 66, near the harbour, R. from 21/2, L. & A. IV2, B. IV2, D. 5, pens. 12, omn. 1 fr. ; Hotel Bellevue, Via Garibaldi 146, opposite the theatre (PI. 20; E, 3), R., L., & A. 4-5, B. 1, dej. 2>/2, D. 4 (both incl. wine), pens. 10, omn. 1 fr. ; — "Albergo di Venezia (PI. b ; E, 3), Strada della Neve 7 and 11 (with de"pendance, HStel de Geneve), second-class, R. & L. 2'/2 fr. , bargain advisable; Alb. & Ristor. Belvedere, Via Primo Settembre 4, R., L., & A. from IV2 fr., well spoken of. — Albergo Nuovo Centrale, Piazza del Municipio 3, rooms merely, plain.

Restaurants. Caffe Palestro , Caffe Duilio , both in the Strada Gari- baldi, between the theatre and the Municipio, also for ladies; Trinacria, Venezia, see above. — Cafes. Palestro, Duilio, see above; Avenire, Peloro, both in the Corso Cavour, Largo dell1 Annunziata (coffee 15, 'mezza granita' 15, 'gelato' 25 c). The Chalet , on the coast, is a favourite resort in fine weather (music thrice a week). — Beer at the Birreria Centrale, corner of the Piavza Municipio and Via Forno Serrato; Birreria Svizzera, Via S. Camillo 19, near the post-office ; bottle of Vienna beer 1 fr. — Clubs with reading, billiard, and other rooms are the Casino della Bona and the Ga-

314 Route 32.

MESSINA.

Climate.

binelto di Lettura, both in the Teatro Vitt. Emanuele (introduction by a member necessary).

Omnibuses traverse the town by the long streets running N. and S., and also ply to the station; fare 20 c, half trip 15 c.

One horse

Cab Tariff. single return single return

Drive in the town, incl. quav .... — 50 85 1 — 1.50

To the station " — 70 1 — 1.50 2 -

To the station at night 1.30 2 — 2.30 3 -

To the Campo Santo 1.— 1-60 1.50 2-

To the Torre di Faro 5.— 6.50 6.50 10

First hour 1.80 —

Each additional hour 1.10 —

Steam Tramway from the Marina to the Faro (p. 322), in 3/4 hr. (fares 90 or 50 c).

Donkeys for hire opposite the Ospedale Civile (PL 14), in the pro- longation of the Corso Cavour, per day 5, half-day 3 fr.

Post and Telegraph Office (PI. F, 3), Via S. Camillo, near the Palazzo del Municipio (open 8-6).

Baths. Sea Baths near the quay, well fitted up , 1/2 fr. — Mineral Baths (sulphur), Largo del Purgatorio 6, first floor, Corso Vitt. Emanuele 52. — Warm, Vapour, and other baths, at the hydropathic establishment, Pal. Brunaccini, Corso Cavour, managed by Dr. Genovese.

Theatre. Teatro Vittorio Emanuele (PI. 20), subsidised by some of the richer citizens, good performances ; 'platea' 2 fr. 70, 'posti distinti' 4 fr. 50 c. — Teatro della Munizione, etc.

Railway to Catania. Syracuse, Girgenli, and Palermo, see BR. 34, 38, 29, 27. — Steamboats. Office of the Societd Florio-Rubatlinc, Corso Vitt. Emanuele 132, opposite the Sanita. — To Reggio, see p. 322; to Villa S. Giovanni, p. 322.

Physicians. Dr. Cammareri, Via Camerelle 52, speaks English; Br. Pomara, Via Rovere, speaks French; Dr. Weiss, Via Primo Settembre (German); Dr. Trombetta, Dr. Soraci. — Chemists. Buffe & Seguenza, Corso Cavour; Camareri- Miller , Villa Cardines.

American Consul: Mr. T. Jones. — British Vice -Consul: Mr. George Pignatorre.

English Church, Via Seconda del Gran Priorato 11; service at 10.30 a.m. ; also at 7.30 p.m. in the British Sailors' Chapel, Corso Vitt. Emanuele 165; chaplain, Rev. J. J. Varnier. — Italian Protestant Services in the Wal- densian Church (11 & 7) and the Methodist Church, Via Torrente Portalegni 110 (11 & 6.30).

Bookseller : Ant. Trimarchi (Carlo Clausen), Corso Cavour 160.

Bankers: Caille , Waller, & Co., Strada Garibaldi 179. — Money- changers: Fratelli Grosso, Strada Garibaldi 74 (also dealers in old coins, bronzes, etc.).

Photographs and Maps of Sicily sold by Cella, Via S. Camillo 36.

The Climate of Messina is healthy, being neither cold in winter nor oppressively hot in summer, but the constant current of air passing through the strait renders it trying to consumptive or rheumatic persons. The mean temperature is 66° Fahr. ; in spring 61°, summer 80°, autumn 69°. winter 55°. The freezing-point is rarely reached.

The Fish of the strait, as well as the Mamertine Wine of the adjoining hills, were famous in ancient times, and are still esteemed.

In fine weather two days at least should be devoted to Messina. The town and environs present some excellent points of view particularly towards Calabria by evening light, while the morning passa'ge to Eeggio affords a strikingly grand survey of Mt. iEtna and the other mountains of Sicily. Steamers plying to Villa S. Giovanni ofTer an opportunity of a day's excursion to Palmi (p. ^22), with the Monte Elia commanding fine views. 'Excursion to Milazzo (an easy day's journey), see p. 312. The sights of the town itself are unimportant.

"Wagner k, Debes rT.eipzir

History. MESSINA. 32. Route. 315

Messina, next to Palermo the chief commercial town of Sicily, with upwards of 80,000 inhab., the seat of an appeal court, an archbishop, and a university, is situated on the Faro or Strettodi Messina, and is overshadowed by a range of rugged rocky peaks. In grandeur of scenery it vies with Palermo. The harbour, which is formed by a peninsula in the shape of a sickle, is the busiest in Italy in point of steamboat traffic, and is one of the best in the world. It is entered annually by upwards of 4000 large vessels, of an aggregate burden of 1,130,000 tons, of which about 1350 are steamers.

The town is on the whole well built, and has several handsome streets. The animated harbour is flanked by the Marina, or Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Parallel to the Marina runs the Via Qaribaldi, beyond which is the Corso Cavour ; and the Via dei Monasteri, still farther from the quay, forms a fourth parallel street. The upper streets of the town, and particularly the Via Monasteri, afford charm- ing glimpses of the sea and the opposite coast of Calabria through the cross-streets.

Messina has experienced many vicissitudes. It was founded by Cumsean pirates and Chalcidians under Perieres and Crataemenes in 732 on the site of a Sikelian town, which the inhabitants named Zancle (t. e. sickle) from the peculiar form of the harbour, and it was governed by the laws of Charondas. Here, as in other Sicilian towns, the conflicts of the people with their rulers ended with the establishment of a tyranny. About 493, fugitives from Samos and Miletus, by the advice oi Anaxilas of Rhegium, took possession of the defenceless city. Anaxilas soon afterwards established himself here, and emigrants from all quarters, chiefly Messenians from the Peloponnesus, settled in the city and gave it the name of Messana. Anaxilas maintained his supremacy throughout all the vicissitudes of the town until his death in 477. His sons, however, retained possession of the supreme power till 461 only, when the original constitution of the town was revived. Messana participated in the wars against Ducetius, and subsequently took the part of the Acragantines against Syracuse, with which it afterwards united against Leontini and the Athenians. To the latter, however, it was compelled to surrender in 427. In the great Athenian and Syracusan war Messana remained neutral. It then engaged in a conflict with Dionysius, but without decisive result owing to the disunion occasioned by party-spirit. In 396 the town was taken and entirely destroyed by the Carthaginian Himilco; a few only of the inhabitants effected their escape to the moun- tains. Dionysius speedily rebuilt the town, whence he proceeded to conquer the not far distant Rhegium. After a variety of changes the Carthaginians gained possession of the place, but were expelled by Timoleon. In the contests with Agathocles it again took the side of the Carthaginians. In 282 the Mamertines ('sons of Mars') , the mercenaries of Agathocles, after their liberation by the Syracusans , treacherously possessed themselves of the town and maintained it against Pyrrhus. Siero II. of Syracuse succeeded in reducing it. But the fruits of his victory on the Longanus in 270 were reaped by Hannibal, who seized the castle of Messana. Against him the Mamertines called in the aid of the Romans, and thus arose the First Punic War. When it was invested by the Syracusans and Car- thaginians, the siege was raised by Appius Claudius, and it thenceforth became a Roman town, being afterwards regarded with especial favour by its new masters, and even by Yerres. In the war between Octavian and Sextus Pompeius it was taken and plundered by the soldiers of the former. Augustus then established a colony here , and Messina continued to be a place of great importance, although not exercising so decisive an influence on tne fortunes of Sicily as Syracuse and Lilybseum. The Saracens took

316 Route 32, MESSINA. Cathedral.

the town in 842, and it subsequently became the first Norman conquest. The Crusades, which did not leave Sicily unaffected, contributed to the rapid increase of the prosperity of the place. In 1189, indeed, it suffered from an attack of Richard Coeur de Lion, who with Philip Augustus wintered here, but from that period also date the great privileges, which, down to 1678, rendered it an almost independent town and the headquarters of the national hatred of foreign rule. In 1282 it was in vain besieged by Charles of Anjou. The bravery of its commandant A laimo and the courage of the Dinars and Chiarenza's at a critical time saved the town and the island. The citizens of Messina have repeatedly evinced heroic constancy of char- acter. Towards the close of the 15th cent, the town enjoyed the utmost prosperity, but its jealousy of Palermo eventually paved the way for its downfall. In the 16th cent, the Emp. Charles V. showed great favour to Messina, and presented it with gifts such as fell to the lot of few other towns, in recognition of which a street was named and a statue erected (p. 319) in honour of his son Don John of Austria on the return hither of the victorious hero of Lepanto (1571) in his 24th year. But a quarrel between the aristocratic families (Merli) and the democratic party (Mahizzi), stimulated by the government, which had long been jealous of the privi- leges of the town, caused its ruin (1672-78). The Merli, at first victorious, expelled the Spanish garrison, and defended themselves heroically against an overwhelming force. To save their city from capture the senate sued for the aid of Louis XIV., who sent an army and fleet to conquer the island. In this, however, he was unsuccessful, notwithstanding the victory gained by Duquesne over the united Spanish and Dutch fleets under De Ruyter. In 1678 the French abandoned the place in an almost clandestine manner, and the population was now reduced from 120,000 to a tenth of that number. The town never recovered from these disasters, and was after- wards kept in check by the now dismantled citadel erected at that period. During the 18th cent. Messina was overtaken by two overwhelming cala- mities — a fearful plague (1740) , of which 40,000 persons died, and an earthquake (1783) which overthrew almost the whole town. (Messina lies on the line of contact of the primary and secondary formations, on which boundary earthquakes between iEtna and Vesuvius are always most violent.) The severe bombardment of 3rd-7th Sept., 1848, also caused great damage, and in 1854 the cholera carried off no fewer than 16,000 victims, but at the present day the town is again in a prosperous condition. The original town lay between the torrents of Portalegni and Boceetta , but was extended under Charles V. towards the N. and S. The suburbs of S. Leo on the N. and Zaera on the S. are now united with the town.

Owing to the numerous calamities which. Messina has sustained at the hand of man and from natural phenomena, it contains fewer relics of antiquity than any other town in Sicily.

The *Cathedral, or la Matrice (PI. 1 ; E , 4), an edifice of the Norman period, was begun in 1098, and completed under Roger II. In 1254 it was damaged by a fire which broke out during the obsequies of Conrad IV- In 1559 the spire of the campanile was burned down; in 1682 the interior was modernised, the pointed arches made semicircular, and the walls covered with stucco; and in 1783 the campanile and the transept were overthrown by the earthquake, so that little of the original building is now left. The form of the church is that of a Latin cross, 305 ft in length, and across the transepts 145 ft. in width. The choir with its two towers was entirely rebuilt in 1865. The tasteful entrance-fa- cade, on which are small reliefs with artless scenes of civic life and symbolical representations , is early- Gothic; the central por- tal, however, received a tall pediment in the 15th century.

Piazza del Duomo. MESSINA. 32. Route. 317

Interior. Adjoining the main entrance is a statue of John the Baptist ascribed to Qagini. The twenty-six granite columns, with Byzantine capitals, which support the roof are said to have once belonged to a temple of Neptune near the Faro (p. 322). The altars of the twelve chapels with the statues of the Apostles were designed in 1547 by Montorsoli. The marble pulpit, beneath the 6th arch on the right, is by Andrea Calamech.

The High Altar , which is decorated richly, but in bad taste, is said to have cost no less than 3,825,000 fr. in 1628. The receptacle in the interior is believed by the faithful to contain the celebrated epistle of the Madonna della Lettera, which the Virgin Mary is said to have sent to the citizens by St. Paul in the year 42, and in honour of which great festivals are still celebrated (3rd June). This, like several other documents, has been proved to be a forgery of the well-known Constantine Lascaris (d. 1501). — The sarcophagus by the wall of the choir, to the right near the high- altar, is sacred to the memory of Emp. Conrad IV., whose remains were burned. The sarcophagus on the opposite side , to the left, contains the remains of Alphonso the Generous (d. 1458), and another those of Queen Antonia, widow of Frederick III. of Aragon. The tasteful choir-stalls were designed by Giorgio Veneziano (1540). — The Mosaics in the apses date from the 14th cent. : to the right. John the Evangelist, with King Lewis and the Duke of Athens ; in the centre, Christ with the Virgin and St. John, and Frederick II. of Aragon, his son Peter, and Archbishop Guiodotto; to the left, the Madonna, with Queen Eleonora and Queen Elizabeth.

In the Transept, on the left, are a Renaissance altar of 1530, and a figure of the Eisen Christ, ascribed to Gagini; on the right is the inter- esting monument of the archbishop Guidotto de1 Tabiati (d. 1333) , by Gregorio da Siena. — Two marble slabs in the Nave, to the left by the organ, enumerate the privileges granted to the city by Henry VI. The ped- estal of the vessel for holy water, by the side-entrance to the left, bears a Greek inscription, according to which it once supported a votive offering to iEsculapius and Hygieia, the tutelary deities of the town.

In the Piazza del Duomo (PI. E , 4) , nearly opposite the facade of the cathedral, is the Fountain of Fra Oiov. Ang. Mon- torsoli (PI. 13), a pupil of Michael Angelo, executed in 1547-51, and overladen with statues and basreliefs, with allegorical figures of the Nile, Ebro, Tiber, and the brook Camaro near Messina on the margin of the principal basin.

Immediately to the right in the Via Primo Settembre, not far from the cathedral, is the narrow facade of the Norman church of La Cattolica. Farther on to the left is the small Piazza de' Cata- lani, in which is situated SS. Annunziata dei Catalani (PI. 4; E, 4) , the oldest Norman church in Messina (at present under- going restoration). Half of the apse is still standing in the Via Garibaldi. A temple of Neptune, and afterwards a mosque , are said once to have occupied the same site. The columns in the in- terior are antique. — Another Norman church, S. Maria Alemanna, at the end of the Via Primo Settembre, is now used as a storehouse.

Opposite the Montorsoli Fountain and the cathedral facade is the Via dell' Universita, leading to the University (PI. 22; E, 4), which contains a Library with some valuable MSS. and a Natural History Collection.

In the Via Cardines (PI. E, 4, 5), opposite No. 231, is the church delV Indirizzo, with a Madonna by Catalano VAntico at the high-altar. In the large church of S. Maddalena (PL 9; E, 5), begun by Carlo Marchioni in 1765, a fearful struggle took place in

318 Route 32. MESSINA. Villa Rocca Guelfonia.

Sept., 1848, between Messinians and the invading Swiss troops, — We now retrace our steps to the Ospbdale Civico (PI. 14; B, 5), an immense pile dating from the close of the 16th cent.; in the Delegazione on the upper floor are preserved upwards of a hun- dred Majolica Vases from Urbino. The main entrance is in the large piazza. — In the next street is the little church of S. Lucia; in the interior: a Madonna with saints by Riccio (1st altar to the left), St. Nicholas by the same (1st altar to the right), and a Ma- donna by Antonello da Saliba (1516 ; 2nd altar to the right).

The Strada de' Monasteri leads N. from the Largo dell' Ospe- dale to the higher quarters of the town. Here are situated a number of convents and small churches (generally closed after 8 a.m.). Among the latter are those of SS. Cosma e Damiano, S. Anna, and S. Rocco, with paintings of the Sicilian school.

In front of S. Rocco a steep flight of steps ascends to S. Gre- gorio (PI. 8; E, 3, 4), erected in 1542 by Andrea Calamech, with a baroque facade. From this church we command a charming view of the town and straits of Messina.

Interior (bell to the left of the door). In the middle of the right transept: Ouercino, Madonna and saints (1665), beside it, Barbalonga, SS. Gregory and Filocamo, S. Silvia carried to the Virgin. In the middle of the left transept: Madonna in mosaic, beside it, Antonio Riccio, St. Bene- dict between SS. Plaeidus and Maurus.

The adjoining ConvbntoS. Gregoeio contains a small collection of paintings, including works by the Sicilians Catalani and Scilla, a Christ at Emmaus by Caravaggio, and a Descent from the Cross of the school of Roger van der Weyden, but its chief treasures are five fine though sadly damaged works by Antonello da Messina (two bishops; an *Enthroned Madonna, 1473; Angels; and an Annunciation). Also antiquities and sculptures, including Arabic and Greek inscriptions, Byzantine holy-water vessels and capitals, the Scylla from the harbour (17th cent.), and a Roman sarcophagus with figures of Dasdalus and Icarus. Adm. to both collections not easily obtained.

Another flight of steps farther up leads to S. Maria di Morlalto (usu- ally closed), in which there are a Holy Family attributed to Titian and a Visitation by Cardillo (about 1400).

Farther on in the Strada de' Monasteri is the church of 8. Agostino ; at the first altar to the right is a statue of the Madonna, dating from the loth cent. ; beside the high-altar, to the left, Na- tivity, a relief of 1570 by Bonanno; above the high-altar, 'LaVer- gine del Buon Consiglio', a picture of the Madonna, which accord- ing to the legend was borne by angels across the sea from Scutari to Genazzano in the year 1467.

The best survey of the town, the mountains surrounding it, and the strait (best towards evening) is obtained from the *VillaBocca Guelfonia (PI. 23; D, E, 3), reached by the second side-street on the left from this point. It belongs to the advocate Sig. Santi De Coin, who kindly admits visitors (small fee to the porter on leav-

Palazzo Municipale. MESSINA. 32. Route. 319

lng). This spot Is said to have been once occupied by the castle of the Mamertines, and the remains of the Norman stronghold of Matagrifone or Rocca Ouelfonia are still to be seen here.

From S. Agostino the Via Monte Vergine leads to the right to the small church Delia Pace ; in the sacristy, Vinccnzo di Pavia, SS. Cosma & Damiano ; in another apartment, Antonello da Mes- sina, Madonna del Rosario (1479). — Adjacent is the imposing Palazzo Qrano (16th cent.). — At the end of the Strada de' Mon- asteri is 8. Maria delta Scala (PI. 11 ; E, 2, 3), a recently restored 14th cent, church , with a fine Gothic facade ; the side-portal is adorned with a relief of the Madonna, dating from the 16th cent. ; and the interior contains a Madonna (to the left of the entrance), attributed, with considerable doubt, to Luca della Robbia.

Beyond the Torrente Boccetta (PI. D, E, 2) is the church of S. Francesco d'Assisi (PI. 6 ; E, 2), founded in 1251 and burned down in 1884, now restored. The tomb of Angelo Balsamo (1501), beside the main portal, a Roman sarcophagus, with the Rape of Proserpine, at the end of the apse, and a beautiful statue of the Madonna, by Ant. Oagini, are among the best sculptures. — The neighbouring church of S. Giovanni Decollato contains a *Be- heading of John the Baptist, by Caravaggio.

We now descend the Torrente Boccetta and follow the Corso Cavour (PI. E, 3) to the right to the small Piazza dell' Annunziata (on the left), embellished with a statue of Don John of Austria (PL 19 ;E, 3), erected in 1572 (p. 316). —S. Oioacchino (PI .7; E, 3), in the next side-street on the right, contains a beautiful wooden crucifix, and a painting by Scilla, representing St. Hilarion in the arms of Death. In the sacristy are some pictures by Tuccari.

Farther on in the Corso Cavour , to the right , is the church of S. Niccolo (PI. 12 ; E, 4, 3), a tasteful building by Andrea Cala- mech. Above the high -altar, a Presentation in the Temple by Oirolamo Alibrandi ; in the left transept, St. Nicholas, by An- tonello da Messina. — The next side-street brings us to the Ora- torio di San Francesco, which contains some interesting paint- ings. Above the altar, Death of St. Francis, by Bart. Schidone; on the left wall, Birth, Baptism , and Investiture of the saint by Rodriguez ; on the right, St. Francis among the thorns , by an un- known master ; the saint listening to the angelic music, while the Madonna appears to him, by Van der Brack, a Flemish painter who died at Messina in 1665. — At the corner of the Corso Cavour is the Palazzo Brunaccini (PI. 15; E, 4), believed to be the scene of the interview, admirably described by Goethe, between that illus- trious traveller and the intendant.

In the Via Garibaldi (PI. F, 3), adjoining an open space where a band often plays on summer evenings, stands the Palazzo Municipale (PI. 16 ; F, 3), erected by Minutoli in 1806-29. Oppo- site are the Exchange and the Post and Telegraph Office (PI. 18).

320 Route 32. MESSINA. Lighthouse.

The Corso Vittorio Emanuele (PI. F, 4, 3, 2, 1), skirting the *Harbour, with its brisk steamboat traffic, affords a pleasant walk. This street was formerly known as 'LaPallazzata', from the uniform row of palaces, all of the same height, which line it. These, begun before the earthquake of 1783, and afterwards restored, have only two stories. In front of the seaward facade of the Palazzo delMuni- cipio stands a Fountain, designed by Montorsoli, with a colossal statue of Neptune (now replaced by a copy) between Scylla and Charybdis. — On the S. curve of the harbour is the Dogana (PI. F, 5), on the site of a palace once occupied by Emp. Frederick II. and other monarchs.

"We may now visit the peninsula on the E. side of the harbour. The Citadel (PI. Gr, 4) here is now being taken down, and the ad- jacent arms of the sea are spanned by temporary bridges. Beyond it, on the right, is the Protestant Cemetery. We next come to the large Lighthouse {Faro Grande ; PI. H, 3), nearly 1 M. from the Dogana, which commands a remarkably fine *View (custodian l/2 fr.). To the W. lies the town with its sheltering mountains (the Antenna- mare or Dinnamari , the highest peak on the left , 3705 ft. ; the Monte Cicci on the right , 1995 ft.). To the E. are the mountains of Calabria , which look wonderfully near in clear weather. We may then return from the Lazzaretto to Messina by boat (^2 fr.}.

An extensive view is obtained from the dismantled fort of *Castellaccio , situated high above the town to the W. (ascent 1/2nr0- This hill was fortified in ancient times, and again under Charles V., but the works have recently been removed. The view- embraces the town, the strait, and the Calabrian Mts.

We may best ascend from the S. end of the Corso Cavour, skirting the Torrente Portalegni to the right (W.) ; after 3 min. turn to the right into the Via Alloro, and follow the left bank of the Torrente, maintaining the same direction ; farther on the Vico Lungo Arcipeschieri leads to the gate ; immediately beyond the gate turn to the left, and after ten paces ascend by the steep, rain-worn path to the right (comp. PI. D, 4; D, 3;C, 3).

Farther to the S. rises Fort Gonzaga (PI. C, 5), erected in 1540, a similar point of view (ascent '^ nr- i turn to tne "S'lt at the end of the Corso Cavour, and after 150 paces, beyond a fountain, cross the smaller bridge to the left). The hill between Gonzaga and the town is the Mow Chalcidicus, on which Hiero II. pitched his camp in 264, and where Charles of Anjou established his headquarters at a later period. In 1861 Cialdini bombarded the citadel from this point.

On an eminence 1 M. to the S. of the town, lies the new *Campo Santo, which we reach by the Catania road. (Or , about 3/4 M. beyond the bridge over the Torrente Portalegni, we may follow the Yia del Campo Santo to the right, which passes the back of the cemetery; comp. PI. D, 6; cab, see p. 314.) The view from this height is very striking. Handsome Ionic colonnades have been erected here, and under them is interred the patriotic Sicil-

Strada Militare. MESSINA. 32. Route. 321

ian historian La Farina , a zealous promoter of the union of Sicily and Piedmont in 1860. At the top of the hill is a modern church in the Gothic style.

Another fine point of view is the Monte dei Cappuccini to the N. (PI. D, E, 1 ; ascent of 10 min. from the end of the Via Gari- baldi, turning to the left heyond the Torrente Trapani). The hill is now used as a drilling-ground. The best stand-point is near the cross. — A pleasant view is also obtained from the Eremitaggio di Trapani, reached by ascending the Torrente Trapani for 1 hr.

A highly interesting drive may be taken on the *Strada Mili- tare, which connects the new fortifications and encircles the town in a wide curve from the Campo Inglese to the Antennamare (see below). It is best reached from the Fort Gonzaga (p. 320) or from the road to Milazzo (see below) ; orpedestrians may follow the steeper ascent through the valley of the Torrente Boccetta (p. 319) and via, the village of Correo. — The ascent of the Monte Antennamare (3705 ft. ; p. 320), which commands an extensive prospect, may easily be accomplished from the Strada Militare.

The *Telegeafo (p. 313), reached by carriage in 2 hrs. by the new provincial road (PI. E, 1), is another fine point. Walkers should choose the road through the ravine of Ahbadiazza (p. 313), via S. Maria delta Scala, or delta Valle, commonly known as Ii'Abbadiazza, the interest- ing ruins of a Norman nunnery. The W. portal and other parts of the church, which was richly endowed by William II. and Constance , date from the 12th century. When Peter of Aragon and Matilda Alaimo-Sea- letta returned to Messina, which had just been relieved from the siege of Charles of Anjou, they were received here by the jubilant Messinians and their brave commandant Alaimo (2nd Oct. 1282). After the plague of 1347 the nuns removed to the town, using the nunnery as a summer residence, but as this was prohibited by the Council of Trent, the edifice fell to decay, and is now a picturesque ruin with desolate surroundings. — A beautiful view is obtained from the top of the pass, the so-called Telegrafo. — We may descend hence to Gesso (p. 313) and return to Messina by railway.

If time permits, the traveller may proceed to the N. of the Telegrafo to Caslanea (Trattoria in the Piazza, tolerable, with rooms), a beautifully situated village on the N.W. slope of the Mte. Cicci (2000 ft.), and may also ascend the latter hill itself (extensive view). The direct route to the top of Mte. Cicci (2'/2 hrs.) ascends the Torrente di Paradiso, which crosses the Faro road and falls into the sea 2lfe M. to the N. of Messina. The whole range commands admirable views in both directions : N. as far as Milazzo and the Lipari Islands, and E. over the strait and Calabria.

*Excursion to the Faro (7^2 M. ; steam-tramway in 3/4hr.; cab see p. 314; bargain necessary as to the stay to be made). The road skirts the base of precipitous heights rising near the shore, passes the country-houses al Ringo, and leads to the suppressed Basilian mon- astery of Salvatore dei Oreci, which was founded by Roger I. on the promontory of the harbour, but transferred hither in 1540. The view of Calabria becomes more striking as the strait narrows. We next pass the fishing-village of Pace and the colonnade of the church of La Grotta, which is said to occupy the site of a temple of Diana. The two salt-lakes of Pantani are connected with the sea by open channels. A famous temple of Neptune once stood here.

Baedeker. Italy III. 11th Edition. 21

322 Route 33. LIPARI ISLANDS.

The fishing-village of Faro (Hotel Paloro), situated on the pro- montory which forms the N.E. angle of the island of Sicily (Pro- montorium Pelorum), sprang up at the beginning of the present century, when the English constructed intrenchments here in or- der to prevent the French under Murat from crossing to the Sicilian coast. On the extremity of the promontory, 1/2 M. from the village, rises the Lighthouse, which should he ascended for the sake of the view (custodian not always on the spot ; enquiry to be made in the village). This is the narrowest part of the Strait of Messina (3600 yds.). On a rock opposite, to the E., lies Scilla; to the left of it is Bagnara; then the lofty Monte S. Elia, surmounted by a small cha- pel. To the left below the promontory glitters Palmi, beyond which is the bay of Gioia with the Capo Vaticano stretching out far to the W. To the N. and N.W. are the Lipari Islands and the open sea.

Chabybdis, according to the legend of the Greek mariners, lay opposite to Scylla, whence the well-known proverb ; but the name is now be- lieved to have been applied to the strong currents (rema, peuu.a) which sweep round this coast on a change of tide. The principal of these are off the village of Faro and near the small lighthouse at the extremity of the 'sickle' of Messina. The latter current is called the Garofalo (car- nation) owing to its circular form. Into this species of whirlpool the diver Cola Pesce of Catania precipitated himself during the reign of Frederick II., an incident on which Schiller founded one of his ballads. Comp. p. 222,

A *Tkip to Reggio (p. 217) is strongly recommended, especially in the morning, when the Sicilian mountains and the majestic iEtna are lighted by the sun. Besides the large steam-packets , which touch at Reggio almost daily, local steamers ply twice daily, at 8 a.m. and 3.45 p.m.; returning from Reggio at 10 a.m. and 5.30 p.m., see p. 217; the local steamers lie alongside the quay at Messina. — From Reggio travellers may proceed in the morning train to Villa S. Giovanni (p. 222) or Scilla (p. 222; ascent of the Aspromonle, see p. 218), or even to Palmi (p. 222), and return to Messina by the steamer from Villa S. Giovanni (see below).

A shorter method of visiting Scilla and Palmi, with the Monte Elia, is offered by the Steamee to Villa S, Giovanni, in 25-30 min. (leaving Messina about 6 30 and 11a.m. and 1 and 5 p.m. ; return-ticket 2 orl'/jfr.). At Villa S. Giovanni (landing or embarcation 15 c.) the train is usually found waiting. The drive to Scilla is also recommended (there and back incl. halt 6-7 fr. ; bargaining necessary). To Palmi railway in 1 hr. (return- ticket 3 or 2 fr. 20 c. ; no 3rd cl.). The last steamer for Messina leaves Villa S. Giovanni about 5 p.m.

33. The Lipari Islands.

Comp. the Map of Sicily.

A steamer of the Florio-Rubatlino company (no refreshments on board) starts from Messina on Tuesdays and Saturdays at midnight, arriving at Lipari at 6 on the following mornings. These steamers also touch alter- nately at S. Marina (8 a.m.), the chief place on the island of Salina, and at Malta (Wed. at 9, Sun. at 9.30 a.m ); and then usually return at once to Messina (leaving Malfa on Wed. at 10, Sun. at 10.30; S. Marina Wed. at II, Sun. at midday; Lipari at 2 p.m.; reaching Messina at 8 p.m.). On alternate Wed. the steamer proceeds via, Arenella (arriving 8.15 a.m.) and S. Marina (9 a.m.) to the islands of Panaria (10.30 a.m.) and Stromboli (1 p.m.), where a halt of only 1 hr. is made before the return, weather permitting (Stromboli being left at 2 p.m., Panaria 4.30 p.m., S. Marina l\15 p.m., Arenella 7pm, T/pari 9 p.m.; and Messina being reached at

LIPARI. 33. Route. 323

3 a.m. — In Lipari travellers may put up at Fr. Trainees Locanda (good) or in the clean though humble house of Giuseppe Sciazone. In the other islands accommodation must, be obtained at private houses , at which, however, it is strongly advisable to agree on the charges beforehand. Bartolomrneo Mcotera may be recommended as a guide to Lipari and Vol- cano (6 fr. daily and food). A visit to the Lipari Islands (costing about 60 fr. ; to Stromboli 50 fr. more) is not, of course, without its annoyances (scarcely advisable for ladies), but it is extremely interesting to the naturalist, as well as to the admirer of scenery, and irrespective of the varied historical associations and legendary lore connected with them, will be remembered by the traveller as one of the most pleasing parts of his Italian tour.

The Lipari Islands (j£oliae, Liparaeae, Vulcaniae, Sephaestiades), which are of volcanic origin, consist of seven islands and ten islets, variously named "by the ancients. At an early period they supplied abundant food for the poetic fancy of the Greeks, whose legends made these islands the abode of iEolus, ruler of the winds. Ulysses (Odyss. x.) is said to have visited ./Eolus in the course of his wanderings. In B.C. 579, as the number of the inhabitants had become greatly reduced, Pentathlus, a Heraclides, estab- lished on the island a colony of Cnidians and Rhodians, who had been unable to maintain themselves in the S.W. angle of Sicily. The new settlers cultivated the soil in common, and defended themselves bravely against the attacks of the Etruscan pirates.

Lipara, which enjoyed the friendship of Syracuse, was plundered by the Athenians. The islands afterwards suffered from the incursions of the Carthaginians. In 260 the Roman admiral Cneeus Cornelius Scipio was surrounded in the harbour of Lipara and taken prisoner by the Carthagi- nians. The Romans sent a colony thither, but in Cicero's time the islands were only partially cultivated. This was possibly owing to the convulsions of nature which must have occurred in B.C. 204 , when the island of Vol- canello was upheaved from beneath the sea. In the year B.C. 126 erup- tions under water were also observed here, destroying vast numbers of fish. In the middle ages the Saracens took possession of the islands, but were expelled thence by the Normans in the 11th cent., and the Lipari group now became united with Sicily. During the wars of the 14th cent, between the Sicilian kings and the Anjous of Naples, the islands changed hands according to the varying fortunes of the respective belligerents. Alphonso the Generous annexed them to Naples, but Ferdinand the Catholic united them finally with Sicily. In 1544 they were plundered by Haireddin Barbarossa, and in 1783 suffered greatly from the earthquake.

Lipari , called Meligunis in the most ancient times , the largest and most productive of the islands , is about lO1^ sq. M. in area. The ancient town of the same name (Aurapa probably signifies 'the fertile') lay on an isolated rock on the E. coast of the island, where the fort is now situated, around which the fertile slopes of cultivated land rise in the form of an amphi- theatre towards Sant Angelo, the central mountain of the island, extending in a spacious crescent between Monte Rosa (755 ft.) on the N. and M. di Ouardia (1215 ft.) on the S. In the centre of the plain, between the fort and the ascent towards S. Angelo, on the site of the episcopal palace, were once situated extensive Baths, partially excavated at the beginning of the present century, but again filled up by the Bishop Todaro, in order that they might not attract visitors. In this vicinity was situated the Necropolis, where Greek tombs are still found, bearing inscriptions on the ba- saltic tuff-stone, some of which are preserved in the seminary. The ■whole area is now called Diana, from a temple to that goddess

21*

324 Route 33. VOLCANO. The Lipari

which once stood here. The best collection of Liparian antiqui- ties is now in the possession of the heirs of Baron Mandralisca at Cefalu (p. 309). M. Torremuzza enumerates twenty-three diffe- rent coins of Lipari. Population of the whole island 13,000. A bishop, with thirty-two canons, has since 1400 presided over the diocese, which was formerly united with Patti. The secular ad- ministration is conducted by a delegate, subordinate to the prefect of Messina. The town, erected around the fort, is of modern origin. The cathedral and three other churches are situated within the precincts of the castle. The Cathedral and the church of Ad- dolorata contain pictures by Alibrando (b. at Messina in 1470). The sacristy of the former commands a beautiful view towards the sea. The Marina Lunga, N. of the castle, is occupied by fishermen only. In the vicinity is a warm spring. To the S., hy the landing- place of the steamboats, contiguous to the church of Anime del Purgatorio, which ahuts on the sea, are situated the warehouses of the merchants who export the products of the island : pumice- stone, currants (passoline) grown on reed-trellises, sulphur, Malm- sey wine , excellent figs, etc. Oranges do not thrive on account of the scarcity of water. For domestic purposes the rain is collected on the flat roofs.

A visit of the island occupies 6-8 hrs. (donkey and atten- dant 6 fr.). We ride first to the hot springs of San Calogero (6 M.), in a desolate valley opening towards the W. side of the island, which issue with such force that they were formerly used to turn a mill. Temperature about 126° Fahr. We proceed thence to Le Stufe (also called Bagno Secco) , the vapour-baths described by Diodorus Siculus, where, with the aid of the guide, we may succeed in finding some of the interesting fossils which abound here (leaves, wood in lava, etc.). Monte Sant'Angelo (1950 ft.) may next be ascended. The extinct volcano, now overgrown with grass and broom, affords the best survey of the town below and the entire group of islands. A path descends thence to Capo Castagna, the N. end of the island, passing the Monte Chirica (1980 ft), and travers- ing the Campo Bianco, where pumice-stone is extensively excavated, being brought to the surface by shafts, and dragged down to the coast (Baja della Pumice) by an exceedingly rough path (a walk of 3/4 hr.) by men, women, and children. From this point we return to the town.

Volcano (Thermissa, Hierd, Vulcania, Therasia), with its con- stantly smoking crater (Sicil. La Fossa'), is entirely uncultivated (area 8l/2 sq. M.). A narrow isthmus connects it with the smaller island of Volcanello , which according to Orosius (iv. 20) was suddenly upheaved about the year B.C. 200, and has since retained its original form. In order to visit the great crater , we proceed by boat with two rowers (8-10 fr.) from Lipari in 1 hr. to the Porto di Levante, the bay which separates Volcano from Volcanello and

Islands. STROMBOLI. 33. Route. 325

disembark near the sulphur-works of the Neapolitan family of Nunziante. A footpath (where the peculiar hollow reverberation produced by a heavy footstep should be observed) leads in 40 min. to the summit of the volcano, into which the traveller may de- scend, not without some difficulty, as the guides avoid this 'Casa del Diavolo'. The greatest diameter of the crater is upwards of 550 yds. The precipitous walls on the E., S., and W. are covered with yellow incrustations of sulphur. After descending, the traveller should visit a boiling-hot sulphur-spring, which issues at the Porto di Ponente, a few paces from the shore, and then return to Lipari. (Provisions should be brought from Lipari, as nothing can be procured from the workmen, who live in caves, and subsist on bread and ricotta or goats' cheese, here called frutte di mandra.)

Isola Salina (Didyme, i.e. twins; Arabic Geziret Dindima; area lOVs sq. M.) consists of the cones of two extinct volcanoes, Monte Vergine (2820 ft.) to the N., and Monte Salvatore (3155 ft.), or Malaspina, to the S.; whence the Greek name. The island is extremely fertile, and the almost exclusive source of the famous Malmsey wine. It may be visited from Lipari on the same day as Volcano. Its four villages contain 5500 inhabitants.

Filicuri (2540 ft. ; Phcenicusa , Arabic Geziret Fictida) , 9 M. to the W. of Salina, was anciently clothed with palms, whence its Greek name, but is now almost entirely uncultivated.

Alicuri (2780 ft.), 9Vz M. to the W. of Filicuri, called Ericusa by the ancients, because uncultivated and clothed with furze only, is inhabited by 500 shepherds and fishermen. No tolerable landing-place.

To the N.E. of Lipari is situated a small group of islands, which pos- sibly formed a single island , prior to a remarkable eruption recorded by Pliny and Orosius, which took place here, B.C. 126. The largest of these is Panaria (fficesia), l1/^ M. from Lipari, and almost entirely uncultivated. The ancients did not reckon this as one of the seven ^Eolian islands, but regarded the small island of Lisca Bianca, or Euonymus^ as one of the number. Highest point 1380 ft. — The island of Basiluzzo contains a few relics of antiquity.

Stromboli, 22 M. to the N.N.E. of Lipari, can be visited only when the wind is favourable ; and even in that case a sailing-boat takes about 6 hrs. for the voyage. The steamer plying once a fortnight should be used for the return (p. 322). This island, named Strongyle owing to its circular form, was regarded by the ancients as the seat of ^Eolus, the god of the winds, for which Pliny gives the somewhat unsatisfactory reason , that the weather could be foretold three days in advance from the smoke of the volcano. In the middle ages Charles Martel was believed to be banished into the crater of Stromboli. Returning crusaders professed to have dis- tinctly heard the lamentations of tortured souls in purgatory, to which this was said to be the entrance, imploring the intercession of the monks of Cluny for their deliverance. The cone of Strom- boli (3020 ft.) is one of the few volcanoes which are in a constant state of activity. The crater lies to the N. of the highest peak of the island, and at remarkably brief intervals ejects showers of stones, almost all of which again fall within the crater. "When the smoke is not too dense , the traveller may therefore approach the brink and survey the interior without danger.

326

34. From Messina to Catania. Taormina.

59 M. Railway in 2-4 hrs. (fares 10 fr. 75, 7 fr. 55, 4 fr. 85 c; express, 11 fr. 85, 8fr. 30 c); to Giardini (Taormina) in 1-2 hrs. (fares 5fr. 45, 3 fr. 80, 2 fr. 45 c; express 6 fr., 4 fr. 20 c); to Letojanni (see below; no express trains, 4 fr. 90, 3 fr. 45, 2 fr. 20 c). — A Steamboat also plies four or five times weekly from Messina to Catania, performing the trip in about 6 hrs.

Half-a-day suffices for a hasty visit to Taormina. The traveller whose time is limited should start from Messina by the afternoon-train, alight at Giardini, and ascend at once to Taormina in order thence to see the sunset, and next morning the sunrise. (The midday lights are less favour- able.) Then by the early train to Catania. If possible, however, two or three days should be devoted to Taormina, which is one of the most beautiful spots in Sicily. Those who intend returning to Messina should select the interesting route by Letojanni.

The railway skirts the coast, penetrating the promontories by means of fourteen tunnels , crossing many flumare, or torrents, the beds of which are generally dry , and affording fine views on both sides. Soon after leaving Messina we observe the new Campo Santo oh the hill to the right, with its conspicuous white Gothic church. 4 M. Tremestieri ; 5 M. Mill; 7 M. Galati; 10 M. Oiampi- lieri. On an abrupt eminence , inland , is situated the extensive monastery of S. Flacido, to which a pleasant excursion may be made.

11 M. Scaletta, the residence of the Ruffo family, Princes of Scaletta. The picturesque castle rises on the right as we approach the station. 15 M. Ati, with sulphur-baths. Beyond it Roccalumera is seen on the hill to the right. The train crosses several broad flumare. 17 M. Nizza di Sicilia (S. Ferdinando), with a ruined castle of Prince Alcontres. Henry VI. died of a fever contracted in the woods of the Fiume di Nisi. 20^ M. S. Teresa. Several more broad torrent-beds are crossed. Farther on, to the left, is the beautiful Capo S. Alessio, with a deserted fort. On the hill to the right lies the town of Forza. Beyond the tunnel (Traforo di S. Alessio) which penetrates the cape, a view is obtained of the promontory of Taormina with the ruins of the theatre. Here are the Tauromenian passes of the ancients, and the frontier between the territories of Messana and Naxos. — 27 M. Letojanni.

Taormina (l-iy4 hr. ; donkey 2 fr.) may be reached hence by a beautiful route, which, however, is better suited for the descent. We follow the high-road for I1/4 M., and then diverge by a footpath to the right to the marble-quarries. A boy had perhaps better be taken as a guide.

An interesting walk may be taken in the bed of the large Fiumara of Letojanni to the top of the pass, which commands a charming "View of the sea on the one side and the picturesque valley of Mongiuffi on the other. Good walkers may make this excursion in 4>/2 hrs., following the path mentioned above (guide desirable, Vz-l fr.). — Those who do not object to a little scrambling should quit the path about 5 min. before reaching the top and follow the bank of the stream, in order to see the wild and romantic scene at the point where the water breaks through the barrier of rocks.

30 M. Giardini, an insignificant place, often visited by fever, is the station for Taormina. From the bay here Garibaldi crossed to Calabria in the autumn of 1860.

Boating Excursions from Giardini are exceedingly enjoyable in favourable weather. The lofty and rugged cliffs of the coast are honey-

TAORMINA. 34. Route. 327

combed with grottoes. Bargaining with the boatmen necessary ; 1 fr. per hr.j or l'/2 fr. for a party, is a reasonable charge.

Taormina lies on an abrupt hill about 380 ft. above the railway- station of Giardini , and is reached by a new carriage-road (cable tramway under construction). The road, which commands beautiful views, diverges to the left from the Messina road, near the Capo di Taormina, about l^M. to the E. of the station, and ascends in long windings for 3 M. About halfway to the Capo di Taormina a steep footpath diverges to the left, while the rough bridle-path commonly used (no view) ascends a few hundred paces to the S.W. of the station, following the bed of the Torrente Selina part of the way (reaching the town in 1/2 hr.). Porter to carry small articles of lug- gage 3/4-l fr. ; donkey I-IV2 fr-i diligence, 1 fr. each; carriage for 1 pers. 3-4 fr., 2pers. 5fr., 3 pers. 7fr., 4pers. 8fr. (bargain advis- able). Most travellers will leave their heavier luggage at the station.

Taormina. — Hotels. '"Hotel Timeo, below the theatre, commanding a magnificent view, R., L., & A. 3, B. D/4, dej. 3, D. 4 (both incl. wine), pens. 8 fr. (for a stay of a week); dependance in the town (not recom- mended); Gkand Hotel de Taokmine, also close to the theatre, B., L.,

6 A. 31/2-672, B. I1/4, dej. 21/2, D. 4, pons. 8-10 fr.; 'Hotel Castello Ca- tehina, below Taormina, pens, from 9 fr., English landlord (resident phy- sician); "Hotel Naumachie, Corso Umberto 86, R., L., & A. 2>/2, B. 1, dej. 2, D. 3 (both incl. wine) , pens. 7-8 fr. ; 'Hotel Victoria, Corso Umberto, with garden, R., L. , & A. 2V2-3, dej. 2, D. 3 (both incl. wine), pension

7 fr. (for a stay of some time 6 fr.).

Studio of 0. Oileng, near the Porta Messina, open 10-4 (oil and water- colour paintings). — Photographs: Cnipi, Via Teatro Greco.

English Church Service occasionally held in the Palazzo Corvaia (p. 330) by the chaplain from Messina.

Taormina, the ancient Tauromenium, a town with 3000inhab., consisting of a long street with several diverging lanes , is most beautifully situated , and is commanded by the ruins of a Castle perched on a rocky height (1300 ft. above the sea-level). Above the latter rises the hill of Mola (2080 ft.), and farther distant is the Monte Venere (2900 ft.).

The castle was formerly the Acropolis of Tauromenium, which, after the destruction of Naxos by Dionysius in B.C. 403, was founded by the Siculi (396) , to whom Dionysius granted the necessary land. They , however, soon renounced their allegiance to him and joined the Carthaginians, and in 394 Dionysius besieged their town in vain. In 392, however, he suc- ceeded in capturing it, and garrisoned it with mercenaries. In 358 Andro- machus, father of the historian Timseus, who was born here, transferred the remainder of the population of Naxos to Tauromenium (comp. p. 331). Timo- leon, who landed on the rocks below the town, was warmly supported by the inhabitants, but after his death dissensions arose. The town then joined the Carthaginians against Agathocles, for which it was afterwards chastised by the tyrant. After his death the town came into the power of Tyndarion, who in- vited Pyrrhus to Sicily and induced him to land near Tauromenium (278). When the Romans concluded a peace with Hiero II. of Syracuse, the town came into their possession and enjoyed a long period of tranquillity. A num- ber of the slaves established themselves here during the First Servile War, and offered a long and obstinate resistance. As the town, being an ally of Rome, had declared in favour of Sextus Pompeius and thus occasioned great embarrassment to Octavian, it afterwards experienced the effects of his wrath, and was peopled by a new colony. In the time of Strabo it was a place of

328 Route 34.

TAORMINA.

From Messina

considerable importance. Its strong position long enabled the inhabitants to ward off the attacks of the Saracens, who in 869 besieged it unsuccessfully. But on 1st Aug., 902, it was taken by the bloodthirsty Ilrahim-ibn-Ahmed, after the garrison had sallied forth and been defeated on the coast. Mola, too, was captured by the Moors, the whole population massacred, and the town burned. The adherents of the Bishop Procopius, whose heart the savage Ibrahim proposed to devour, were strangled and burned on his corpse. The town, however, recovered from this cruel blow, and Hassan , the first Emir , was obliged to besiege and capture it anew in 962. He then introduced a colony of Mussulmans, and named the town Moezzia. In 1078 it was taken by the Normans , under whose supremacy it again prospered. Here in 1410 was held the parliament which vainly

endeavoured to find a national sovereign to rule over Sicily. Battles were subsequently fought here on two different occasions. In 1676 the French took possession of Taormina and Mola, but on 17th Dec, 1677, a party of forty brave soldiers caused themselves to be hoisted to the summit of the rocks of Mola by ropes (at the point where the path from Taormina skirts the base of the cliff), and succeeded in surprising and overpowering the garrison. Again, on 2nd April, 1849, the Neapolitans under Filangieri, 'Duke of Taormina'', gained possession of the town, which was defended for a few days only by a small body of troops under Santa Rosalia.

to Catania. TAORMINA. 34. Route. 329

Ascending the main street (Corso Umberto) from the Porta di Catania, the W. entrance of the town, nearly to the other end of Strada the town, we reach the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele. Thence the di Giovanni, continued by the Salita del Teatro, leads S.E. to the celebrated theatre, by far the most interesting sight of Taormina.

The *Theatbb is situated 420 ft. above the sea- level, on a height to the E. of the town.

The custodian is on the spot the whole day (1 fr.). If the visitor desires to see the sunrise from this point he should give the custodian notice beforehand, in order that the door may be left open for him. — The custodian shows a small Museum containing a torso of Bacchus , a fine head of Apollo from the theatre, inscriptions, mosaics, sarcophagi, and architectural fragments.

The theatre is of Greek origin , but dates in its present form from a restoration carried out in the Roman period , in whioh the stage was entirely reconstructed. Excavations made in 1882 prove that a building of the Greek period on the top of the rock, near the museum, was removed by the Romans to make room for the foun- dations of the upper vestibule. According to an inscription on the road-side , the theatre was destroyed by the Saracens , while in reality it owes its ruin to the Duca di S. Stefano, who employed its marble ornaments in decorating his palace. In 1748 it was partly restored. It is hewn in the rock in a semioircular form, and is bounded at the upper end and on two sides only by Roman masonry. The greatest diameter is 357 ft., that of the orchestra about 126 ft. The stage, next to that of Aspendus in Pamphylia, is the best-preserved in existence. In the posterior wall are observed the three doors of the stage, in each space between which are three niches, and on each side a niche for a statue. The stage itself is narrow, as in Greek theatres, where the orchestra occupied the greater space. The exact position of the 'thymela' (or raised platform for the choir) cannot now be determined. Beneath the stage is situated a vaulted channel for water. The precise object of the apertures in the proscenium is unknown, but they were probably connected with the machinery of the theatre. Festal processions advanced to the stage from the vaulted halls on each side. The adjoining smaller apartments were probably used as dressing-rooms. The seats for spectators were divided into nine cunei. The idea that the thirty-four niches on the upper praecinctiones were occupied by sounding-boards is questionable, as the acoustic properties of the building are already so successful that every word spoken on the stage is distinctly aud- ible at the farther extremity. Corresponding with the remains of the forty-five columns are forty-five pilasters along the central wall.

The ""View from the hill on which the theatre stands is one of the most beautiful in Italy. We first take up our position on the steps in front of the small museum on the top. On the right, immediately below us , lies the well-preserved theatre , and to the left rises the gigantic py- ramid of jEtna. To the left in the foreground , in the valley of the Al- cantara, are the mountains of Castiglione, and then the hills and rocky

330 Route 34. MOLA. From Messina

peaks beyond the theatre : from left to right we first observe La Maestra, S. Maria della Eocca (the hermitage), the castle of Taormina, and beyond it the overhanging hill of Mola and the still higher Monte Venere or Venerella; at the point where the latter slopes down towards the N. is seen the rocky peak of Lapa, and then, nearer us, to the left, beyond the fiumara , the precipitous M. Zirreto with its marble quarries. The view is even more beautiful in the morning, when the sun rises above Calabria or from the sea, imparts a rosy hue to the snowy peak of Jit. jEtna, and then gilds the rocky heights beyond the theatre. Those who make a prolonged stay at Taormina will have an opportunity of observing some marvellous effects of light and shade.

The other sights of the town may he visited by those who have abundance of time. In the Piazza Vittoiio Emanuele (p. 329) is the Gothic Palazzo Cokvaia. The interesting court of this palace is entered hy a door in the Piazza Cavour ; on the staircase is a relief (14th cent.) representing the Creation of Eve, the Flood, and Adam delving and. Eve spinning.

Many of the doorways and windows in the Corso are either Gothic or Romanesque. — In the Giardino del Capitolo, in the Strada Naumachia, which diverges to the left, is a so-called Roman Naumaehia, probably once a bath-establishment. Of five Roman reservoirs one only (Lo Stagnone), under the castle-hill, is in good preservation. — The Corso leads on to the Cathedral, the side- entrance to which is formed by a handsome Gothic portal. Inside, to the right of the high-altar , is a statue of the Madonna , dating from the 15th century. In front of the main entrance is a fountain. — The road to the right of the fountain ascends to the Villa Zuccaro, near which is the Badia Vecchia, a fine Gothic ruin. — Farther on in the Corso is the Gothic Palazzo S. Stefano , with vaulted baths borne by granite columns. — In the vicinity of the town are four interesting grottoes.

The following walk is recommended. From the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele through the Porta di Messina to the church of S. Pan- crazio , the cella of a Greek temple (prostylos) , which was once supposed to be that of Apollo Archagetes. Then back to the road, which we descend, passing some Roman tombs (turn to the right after 5 min.), to the (10 min.) church of SS. Pietro e Paolo, near which is an extensive necropolis. The stairs adjoining the church lead to the former convent of the Frati Osservanti , from which the town is regained by a footpath.

Another beautiful walk is to Mola (1 hr., guide unnecessary; stony path). Within the Porta di Messina we turn to the left towards the fountain, pass to the right of it, and follow the water- conduit; then, 130 paces from the fountain, we pass to the left under the conduit and follow the road. Mola (osteria by the Ma- trichiesa, poor and dear), a dirty village which lies 2080 ft. above the sea-level, commands an imposing view, the finest point being the ruined castle (key obtained for a trifling gratuity). In returning we follow the crest of the hill, which to the right descends to the Fiumara della Decima and to the left to the Torrente di Fontana

to Catania. GIARRE. 34. Route. 331

Vecchia, and reach the back of the castle of Taormina. Under the almond-trees is the entrance to the castle, whence another admirable view is obtained. We may then descend to the S.E. by a winding path between the mountain and the hermitage (Madonna della Rocca). Near the Porta Francese are rock-tombs of pre-Hellenic origin.

The castle also commands a view of the site of Naxos, the earliest Greek colony in Sicily, founded by Theocles in B.C. 735. It is now occu- pied by a lemon-plantation, situated between the influx of the Alcantara and the bay on which Giardini lies. The altar of Apollo Archagetes, the tutelary god of the colonists , on which the ambassadors of the Sicilian Greeks were wont to offer sacrifices before starting for the Hellenic festal assemblies, stood between the river and Taormina. Naxos was subjugated by Hiero I. of Syracuse in 476, but soon regained its liberty and espoused the cause of Athens, whose general Nicias wintered in the town in 415-14. It was destroyed by Dionysius in 403.

The ascent of Monte Venere (2900 ft. ; 4-5 hrs. there and back) may easily be combined with a visit to Mola, and should not be omitted by those who have a few days to spend at Taormina. At the deep depression behind the hill of Mola we skirt the churchyard - wall , following the somewhat stony path ascending the arete. Refreshments at the cottage passed on the way. The top commands an extensive view, including the Val d' Alcantara, Castiglione, Randazzo, etc.

Continuation of Journey to Catania. Beyond Giardini the railway traverses the lava-streams of iEtna. On the northernmost of these stands the so-called Castello di Schisb, on the site of the ancient Naxos. 32 M. Calatabiano ; the little town lies above , to the right. The train crosses the Alcantara, the ancient Acesines. Cantata is an Arabic word signifying a bridge. The Sicilians name the river and the bridge by which the high-road crosses it after the town of (32 Y2 M.) Calatabiano, situated to the right. This district is rendered unhealthy by malaria. The lava-stream which descended beyond (33!/2 M.) Alcantara and the Ponte della Disgrazia across the Fiume Freddo, prevented the Carthaginian general Himilco from proceeding direct to Syracuse after the destruction of Messana, and compelled him to march round the mountain to the N. (B.C. 396). Here, too, the road now diverges which leads to Catania via. Ran- dazzo and Aderno (see R. 35).

35^2 M. Piedimonte (the town, p. 333, is situated 3 M. from the railway). The train next traverses the fertile district of Mascali and reaches (40 ^ M.) Oiarre-Riposto.

Giarre (Locanda della Pace, tolerable), 3/4 M. frpm the station, is a town with 18,000 inhab.; Riposto (Scrofina's Inn, tolerable) lies to the left, on the coast. Above the village of S. Alfio, on the slopes of iEtna , 4^ M. above Giarre, are the remains of the gigantic chestnut-tree di Cento Cavalli, near which several other famous old trees are still flourishing. The craters which were in activity in 1865 and the Valle del Bove may be reached from Giarre in 5 hrs. (comp. p. 348).

4372 M. Carruba; 46 M. Mangano. The train crosses several lava-beds. Fine view of iEtna and the sea. Four tunnels.

332 Route 34. ACIREALE.

50!/2 M. Acireale, Sicil. Jaci (Grand Hotel, near the station, a laige establishment of the first class, with garden and S. aspect, pens. 8-10 fr.; Hotel Buggieri, in the Piazza del Duomo, R., L., & A. 2, de"j. 2, D. iy2, bothincl. wine, pens. 8fr., unpretending, but good), a wealthy country-town with 24,000 inhab., has been almost entirely re-erected since the earth-quake of 1093, and stands on several different lava-streams, 560 ft. above the sea. The climate here is considered so healthy, that, during the last ten years, the place has often been preferred to Catania for a prolonged stay. A large Bath-house called the Terme di 8. Venera (mineral bath 2 fr., vapour bath 2!/2 fr.), has been erected to the left of the station for patients using the tepid mineral water, which contains sulphur and iodine. The springs (Pozzo di 8. Venera), with the remains of an ancient Roman bath , are about 2 M. distant (interesting walk). The garden of the bath - house and the Villa Belvedere (Giardino Pubblico), at the N. end of the town, l*/4 M. from the station, command admirable views of Mt. Mtm, and the coast. The church of 8. Sebastiano, in the market-place, has a very successful baroque facade. Baron Salvatore Pennisi possesses an excellent col- lection of Sicilian coins, which, however, is not shown without a special introduction. — The environs are full of geological interest. Pleasant walks or drives may be taken to the villages of Valverde, Viagrande, Tre Castagni, and Blandano, on the slopes of Mt. ^Etna, surrounded with luxuriant vegetation (comp. the Map, p. 342). The myth of Acis, Galatea, and the giant Polyphemus, narrated by Theocritus and Ovid (Metamorph. xiii) is associated with this locality. A precipitous path (la Scalazza) descends to the mouth of the Acis. — Pleasant excursions may be taken by S. Antonio (with the palace and garden of Prince Carcaci) and Tre Castagni to Nico- losi (p. 346 ; one-horse carriage 15 fr. ; 23/4 hrs. ; back in 2 hrs.), and to Catania by the high-road (carriage 12 fr.). A row along the coast to the Cyclopean Islands (see below) is also enjoyable.

The train approaches the sea. Near Aci Castello, we perceive on the left the seven Scogli de' Ciclopi, or Faraglioni, the rocks which the blinded Polyphemus hurled after the crafty Ulysses. To the S. of the Isola d'Aci, the largest of the islands, rises the most picturesque of these rocks, about 200 ft. in height and 2000 ft. in circumference. It consists of columnar basalt, in which beautiful crystals are found, and is covered with a hard stratum of limestone containing numerous fossil shells. The coast here is lofty, and has risen more than 40 ft. within the historical period. Near these cliffs Mago, although cut off from the land-army under Himilco, defeated the Syracusan fleet under Leptines in 396.

5472 M. Aci Castello, with a picturesque ruined castle, in which the adherents of Roger Loria defended themselves in 1297 against Frederick II. and Artale Aragona. 5572 M. Cannizzaro. The train then skirts the bay of L'Ongnina, which is supposed to

NEBRODE. 35. Route. 333

be identical with the Portus Vlyxis described by Yirgil (^En. iii. 570), and filled by a lava-stream in the 15th century. On the right we at length perceive —

59 M. Catania, see p. 336.

35. From Taormina to Catania round the W. side of Mt. JEtna.

Comp. the Map, p. 342. The distance is about 60 M., which may accomplished by carriage in two days, though three days may well be devoted to this delightful tour, which gives a strikingi dea of the devastating volcanic activity of Mt. ./Etna. The charge for a carriage-and-pair is about 25 fr. daily, with 25 fr. more for the return-journey. A single traveller may avail himself of the Cor- riera Postaxe , which starts in the morning from Piedimonte, the third railway-station to theS. of Giardini (see below), reaching Adernb in 11 hrs. Another corriera leaves Aderno in the evening, arriving at Catania at 3 a.m. A Diligenza also runs twice daily from Aderno to Catania. — The inns are so poor that it is as well to be provided with food. — A local railway round Mt. Mtmi, (Ferrovia Circumetnea) is being built, but only the portion between Cibali (a suburb of Catania) and Misterbianco (p. 336) is near completion.

This route is especially recommended to those who wish to visit the scene of the jEtna eruption of 1879. Randazzo is the chief place for guides for that purpose, but guides may also be obtained at Biancavilla (comp. p. 335). — The distances in the following description are reckoned from Giardini. — The ascent of Etna may be combined with this excursion, by proceeding from Licodia (p. 335) to Nicolosi (p. 346) via, Belpasso.

Giardini, at the foot of the hill of Taormina, see p. 327. — The route (to the left at the fork) at first follows the Catania road to (3 M.) Pasieria, a small village in the parish of Calatabiano (p. 331). It then crosses the river Alcantara and farther on the Fiume Menessale and diverges from the coast-road , following the old military road from Messina to Palermo, which was traversed by Himilco in B.C. 396, by Timoleon in B.C. 344, and by Char- les V. in A.D. 1534. 7i/2 M. Piedimonte (Alb. della Pace), 3 M. from the station of that name (p. 331), whence the Corriera starts. 10^2 M. Linguaglossa (Alb. Garibaldi, clean). To the right is Castiglione, which yields the best Sicilian hazel-nuts. The road to Randazzo intersects extensive nut-plantations. A little beyond Lin- guaglossa we obtain a more uninterrupted view of the valley of the Alcantara and the chain of the lofty Nebrode, at the point where the mountains of Castiglione are lost to view. Near the hamlet of Mal- vagna, on the left bank of the Alcantara , stands a small Byzantine church , the only one in Sicily which has survived the Saracenic period, an interesting object to architects. In the vicinity probably lay the town of Tissa mentioned by Cicero. The neighbouring village of Mojo, a little to the S., lies near the northernmost crater of the jEtna region. We now traverse part of the lava ejected by Mt. iEtna in 1879 (guides at Randazzo, comp. p. 341). The lava ad- vanced nearly as far as the Alcantara, and threatened to overwhelm the village of Mojo, the inhabitants of which sought to appease the

334 Route 35. BRONTE.

•wrath of nature by a religious procession bearing the statue of St. Anthony, their patron saint.

22 M. Eandazzo (2535 ft.; Locanda di Joppolo , R. 2 fr., well spoken of), with 8500 inhab., a town of quite a mediaeval appearance, founded by a Lombard colony , was surnamed Etnea by the Emp. Frederick II., being the nearest town to the crater of the volcano, and yet having escaped destruction. In the middle ages it was called 'the populous'. The churches are all built of lava.

The church of S. Maria, on the right side of the street, dates from the 13th cent, (choir), the lateral walls from the 14th; the campanile has been added to the original tower during the present century. An inscription mentions Petrus Tignoso as the first architect. The houses present many interesting speci- mens of mediaeval architecture , such as the Palazzo Finochiaro with an inscription in barbarous Latin , the mansion of Barone Fesaul , and the Town Hall in which Charles V. once spent a night. From the old Ducal Palace, now a prison, still protrude the spikes on which the heads of criminals were exposed. A hand- some mediaeval vaulted passage leads from the main street to the church of 8. Nicolb , which is constructed of alternate courses of black and white stone. Don Vagliasindi possesses a small Museum of Roman antiquities, to which access may be obtained through Sig. Joppolo, landlord of the hotel.

The road to Bronte still ascends, at first through a forest of oaks with ivy-clad trunks, and the vegetation here assumes quite a northern character. Before the path to the small town of Ma- letto diverges, we reach the culminating point between the Al- cantara and Simeto (3810 ft.). The torrents in spring form the small lake Gurrita in the valley to the right, the exhalations from which poison the atmosphere in summer.

To the right, in a valley below Maletto, lies the suppressed Benedictine monastery of Maniacium. Here in the spring of 1040 the Greek general Ma- niaces, aided by Norwegians (commanded by Harald Hardradr, afterwards king) and Normans, defeated a large army of Saracens. Margaret, mother of William II., founded the monastery in 1174, and William Blesensis, brother of the celebrated Pierre de Blois, became the first abbot. Ferdinand IV. presented the whole estate to Nelson in 1799, and created him Duke of Bronte (a town which is said to derive its name from Ppovrav, to thun- der). The steward of General Viscount Bridport, the present proprietor, resides at Maniace, which possesses handsome vaulted gateways.

The high mountain-ranges to the right, which are covered with snow in spring, and the far more lofty 'Pillar of Heaven', 'Nourisher of the Snow', as Pindar calls iEtna, to the left, invest the scenery with an almost Alpine character. In 1651 a vast lava-stream descended into the valley close to Bronte.

30 M. Bronte (2605 ft. ; Locanda dei Fratelli Cesare ; hoc. del Real Collegio, tolerable), with 15,500 inhab., has been erected since the time of Charles V. — The road thence to Aderno traverses barren beds of lava, crossing the stream of 1843 (2M. from Bronte),

.PATERNO. 35. Route. 335

and those of 1727, 1763, 1603, 1787, and 1610. The craters visible before us are (reckoned from the summit of iEtna downwards towards the W.) the Monti Lepre, Bovolo, and Minardo. The com- munes of. Aderno and Bronte possess a beautiful forest here, bound- ed by Mte. Minardo. The highest mountain to the right, towards the N., is Monte Outtb ; the Serra delta Spina belongs to the Nel- son estate. The Foresta di Traina is also called Monte Cunano.

40^2 M. Aderno (Locanda di Roma, tolerable), a wealthy town with 16,000 inhabitants. In the Piazza rises the quadrangular Nor- man castle erected by Roger I., now used as a prison; the interior is very dilapidated. In the chapel are seen remains of frescoes representing Adelasia, grand-daughter of Roger I., taking the veil. The convent of S. Lucia, nearly opposite, was founded by Roger in 1157. In ancient times the Sikelian city of Hadranum stood here, celebrated on account of its temple of Hadranos, which was guarded by upwards of 1000 dogs. Fragments of this structure, perhaps of the cella, are shown in the garden of Salvatora Palermo at a place called Cartellemi, on the right, outside the town. This was the headquarters of Timoleon after he had defeated Nicetas of Syra- cuse in the vicinity. In the valley of the Simeto , to the W. of Aderno, !/2 M. from the bridge over the river, are the remains of a Roman aqueduct (Ponte Carcacci). — The road descends from Aderno to the town of —

42Y2M. Biancavilla, with 14,000 inhab., some of whom are of Albanian origin. Station of the Mt. ^Etna guides, see p. 342.

441/2 M. 8. Maria di Lieodia. The town of Mtna is said to have lain in this neighbourhood. The road to (l3/4 M.) Belpasso (see below) diverges to the left immediately beyond the village. Between Lieodia and Paterno, on the right, 1 M. below Lieodia, begins the Roman aqueduct to Catania.

451/2M. Paterno [Albergo Concordia, well spoken of; Locanda diSicilia, tolerable), on the site of the Sikelian town of Hyb la Minor, now contains 17,000 inhab., chiefly of the lower classes, the landed proprietors having retired to Catania to escape the ma- laria which prevails here. The square tower of the castle, erected above the town by Roger I. in 1073, is used as a prison. Around this stronghold on the hill lay the mediaeval town , where now the Matrice and two monasteries alone stand (fine views of the valley). Hybla became completely Hellenised at so early a period that it was the only Sikelian town which did not participate in the insurrection against the Greeks in 450 under Ducetius. In 415 the territory of the town was devastated by the Athenians. The ancient road between Catania and Centuripse passed by Hybla. Two arches of the bridge over the Simeto are still standing, Mtva, was ascended from this point in ancient times. In the Contrada di Bella Cortina, in the direction of the moun- tain, remains of baths have been discovered. In the vicinity is the Qrotia del Fracasso, through which an impetuous subterranean stream flows. To the N.E. of Paterno, on the slopes of ^tna, lies the town of Belpasso (8000 inhab.), destroyed by an eruption in 1669, and subsequently re-erect- ed on a new site (Mezzocampo). The air here was found to be unhealthy,

336 Route 36. CATANIA.

in consequence of which the inhabitants quitted the place and rebuilt their town on its present site. By making a circuit round the Monti Rossi, the traveller may from this point reach Mcolosi (p. 346), whence ^Etna is most conveniently ascended. — Near Paterno is a kind of mud-volcano, named Salinella, the last eruption of which took place in 1878-9.

Before the descent is made to Misterbianco, the last town be- fore Catania , a road diverges to the right to the town of Motta S. Anastasia (p. 302). From Motta the high-road may be regained near Misterbianco by traversing the valley to the right. To the left before reaching the main road, near Erbe Blanche, we observe the fragments of a Eoman building, and a few hundred feet farther the remains of baths, called Damusi.

56 M. Misterbianco, a town with 7000 inhah., was destroyed in 1669 (railway to Catania, see p. 333). To the right rises the Montecardillo, the S.E. crater of the ./Etna group , overlooking the plain. Crossing the lava-stream of 1669, we now enter —

60 M. Catania by the Porta del Fortino.

36. Catania.

Arrival. By Railway. The station (Restaurant, well spoken of) lies N.E. of the town (PI. H, 4); omnibuses from the principal hotels are waiting, 1 fr. ; cab, see below. — By Steamer. Landing (or embarcation) !/2 fr., with luggage 1 fr. each person.

Hotels. Hotel Oriental, Piazza dei Martiri (PI. G, 5), at the entrance of the town, R. 4-6, L. 1, A. 1, B. l'/2, dej. 31/2, D. 5, wine from 3, pens. 12-15, omn. 1 fr.; Alb. Centkale, Via Stesicoro-Etnea, opposite the university, R. & A. 3i/4 fr., L. 60 c, dej. 2'/2, D. 4 (both incl. wine), pens, incl. wine 9-10 fr., well spoken of; Hotel Geande Bretagne, Via Lincoln, R. 1V2-3V2, L. 1/2, A. 1/2, dej. 2'/2, D. 41/2 (both incl. wine) pens. 9, omn.

1 fr.; Hotel du Globe , Via Stesicoro-Etnea 28 , R. IV2-2V2 fr., L. 40 c, A. 1/2, B. IV2, dej. 3, D. 41/2, pens. 10-11, omn. 1 fr., well spoken of. — Unpretending second-class inns: Vittoeia, Roma, Malta, etc., R. 172-2fr. — Furnished Apartments are advertised in many streets.

Trattorie. "Cafe' Europa, Via Stesicoro-Etnea; Restaur. Savoy a, near the Cathedral, well spoken of; Villa Felice, Piazza dell' Universita and ViaLaPiana; Nuova Villa di Sicilia, Via Lincoln 259 (with good rooms to let). — Villa Nuova, to the right in the passage from the Piazza del Duomo to the Marina. — Cafe. "Cafi di Sicilia, Piazza del Duomo. — Beer at the Trattoria di Fil. Cornigliano , Str. Condurso 19 (diverging from the Corso Vitt. Emanuele) and at the Fabbrica di Birra e Gazzosa, Via Biscari.

Cabs. With one horse, per drive for 1-3 pers. 30, at night 40 c; each pers. additional 10 c, luggage 20 c; per hour 1 fr. 30, or lfr. 50 c. With two horses, per hour, 2 fr. 30, at night 2 fr. 50 c.

Omnibus to Borgo di Catania (on the Etna road), 10 c.

Reading Room, with Italian and a few French newspapers, Palazzo della Prefettura, Via Stesicoro-Etnea, on the left when approached from the university; strangers admitted gratis.

Post and Telegraph Office, Via Secondo S. Giuliano (PI. E, 4), near the University. — Bank: Banca di Depositi e Sconti.

British Vice-Consul : Mr.R. O.Franck. — XT. S. Consul: Mr. Charles Heath.

Railway to Messina, five trains daily; to Syracuse three; to Canicath (Palermo, Girgenti) three. — Diligence (until the railway is opened) twice daily to Paternb and Adernd , starting from the 'Rilievo', a side-street of the Str. Garibaldi ; a Vettura Corriera also runs to these places daily at

2 p.m. — Steamboat four times a week to Messina ; twice a week to Syra- cuse (1st cl. 8 fr.); once a week to Athens.

The Silk Stuffs of Catania are good and durable. — Good Crystallized

gr.Anst-v. W;»6iur<( DpIm-s, Leipzig.

History. CATANIA. 36. Route. 337

Fruits, especially oranges and lemons, may be purchased of Rosario Amato, Corso Vitt. Emanuele. — Terracotta Figures of Sicilian peasants, Sicilian Amber, etc., at Angelo Leone's, Corso Vitt. Emanuele.

Climate and Health (comp. pp. 231, 232). The influence of the snow- fields of Mt. iEtna make the winter temperature at Catania lower than at Palermo, but the summer-heat is on the other hand much greater, so that the mean annual temperature of Catania is 9° Fahr. higher than that of Palermo. The N.E. wind is often very cold in winter. The destruction of the forests on Mt. iEtna tends also to make the climate more variable. The drinking-water is generally good ; the mineral water of Paterno is also extensively used. — Catania used to suffer terribly from the cholera, but recently the sanitary condition of the town has been excellent. As a winter-resort of invalids Catania somewhat resembles Palermo , but there is a great lack of walks and of gardens for sitting in the open air.

The town is not attractive to tourists. Most of the antiquities are uninteresting , and the extensive theatre is so deeply buried in the lava that it is completely eclipsed by the noble similar structures at Taormina and Syracuse. The mediseval buildings of Catania are also unimportant. The chief attraction is the survey of ^Etna , the finest points of view being the tower of S. Nicola and the Villa Bellini. (Those who do not ascend Mt. iEtna should at least make an excursion to the Monti Rossi, p. 346.) — The festivals of St. Agata , the tutelary saint of the town, are celebrated with great pomp on 3rd-5th Feb. and 18th-21st Aug., vying in splendour with those of St. Rosalia at Palermo.

Catania, which after Palermo is the most populous city in the island (116,000 inhab.), is the seat of a bishop , an appeal court, and a university, founded in 1445. It is situated about the middle of the E. coast of Sicily. The harbour is at present being improved. The town carries on a brisk trade in sulphur, cotton, wine, grain, linseed, almonds, and the other products of this rich and extremely fertile district. The Accademia Oioenia di Scienze Naturali, founded in 1823, has taken a prominent part in promoting the scientific investigation of the natural features and products of Sicily. The wealth of the citizens , and especially of the resident noblesse , is proved by their perseverance, notwithstanding the disasters caused by numerous earthquakes, in rebuilding their spacious palaces, and by the general appearance of the town , which is in many respects the cleanest and pleasantest in Sicily.

Catana, founded by Chalcidians about 729, five years after they had founded Naxos, soon rose to prosperity. Shortly after Zaleucus had pro- mulgated the first Hellenic code of laws among the Locroi Epizephyrioi, Gharondas framed a code for Catana, which was subsequently recognised as binding by all the Sicilian communities of Ionian and Chaleidian ex- traction. Tisias, surnamed Stesichorus on account of his merits in per- fecting the chorus of the Greek drama, born at Himera on the N. coast of the island about the year 630, closed his career at Catana at an advanced age. His tomb is said to have been within the precincts of the present Piazza Stesicorea. Catana suffered greatly in the wars of the Doric colonies against the Chalcidians. Hiero I. took the town in 476 and transplanted the inhabitants to Leontini , re-populating it with Syracusans and Pelo- ponnesians , and changing its name to dltna. In 461, however, the new intruders were expelled and the old inhabitants re-instated , and in the Athenian and Syracusan war Catana became the Athenian headquarters. In 403 Dionysius conquered Catana, reduced the inhabitants to slavery, and gave the town to his Campanian mercenaries. After the naval victory of the Cyclopean islands in 396 Catana fell into the hands of the Carthaginians, and in 339 was delivered by Timoleon from the tyrant Mamercus. It was one of the first Sicilian towns of which the Romans

Baedekek. Italy III. 11th Edition. 22

338 Route 36. CATANIA. Cathedral.

took possession, and under their sway became one of the most populous in the island. Marcellus undertook extensive improvements, hut the town sustained great damage during the Servile wars and the civil war between Se.vtus Pompeius and Octavian. The latter afterwards introduced a new colony. During the early part of the middle ages Catania was a place of subordinate importance. It was wrested from the Goths by Belisarius, plundered by the Saracens, conquered and strongly fortified by the Nor- mans, but in 1169 almost totally overthrown by an earthquake. Towards the close of that century it declared in favour of Duke Tancred, and was in consequence taken by the troops of Henry VI. under Henry of Kallenthin and razed to the ground. Again restored, and in 1232 provided by Fred- erick II. with the fortress of Rocea Orsina (W. of the harbour), it sub- sequently flourished under the Aragonese sovereigns of the 14th cent, who generally resided here, but owing to the feebleness of the government was exposed to numerous sieges. In 1445 Alphonso founded the first Sicilian university here, and after that date Catania was long regarded as the literary metropolis of the island. Since that period the tranquillity of the town has been uninterrupted, except by the insignificant contests of April, 1849, and May, 1860; but its progress has been materially retarded by calami- tous natural phenomena. On 8th March , 1669 , a fearful eruption of Mt. /Etna took place ; the Monti Rossi were upheaved, and an arm of the lava- stream (14 II. in length and 25 ft. in width) flowed in the direction of the town. The pious inhabitants, however, averted its course by extending the veil of St. Agata towards it, in consequence of which the stream took a W. direction near the Benedictine monastery and descended into the sea to the S.W. of the town, partly filling up the harbour. An earthquake in 1693, by which the whole island was affected, proved especially destructive to Catania, and the present town has been erected since that date.

Leaving the Railway Station (PI. H, 4), and before entering the town, we follow the street to the left, leading to the (Y4 M.) Piazza de Martiri (PL G, 5) , which is adorned with a statue of St. Agata on an ancient column.

The Coeso Vittomo Emanuelb, starting from this point, in- tersects the town to its opposite end , upwards of 1 M. distant. In 10 min. it leads to the Piazza del Duojio (PI. E, 5), which is embellished with a fountain with an antique Elephant in lava, bearing an Egyptian obelisk of granite. The Elephant was perhaps anciently used as a meta in an arena, but when it was erected here is uncertain.

The Cathedral (PL E, 5), begun by Roger I. in 1091, was almost entirely destroyed by an earthquake in 1169. The apses and part of the E. transept are now the only remains of the original edifice. The granite columns of the facade are from the ancient theatre , from which indeed King Roger seems to have ob- tained the whole of his building materials.

Around the high-altar are placed sarcophagi of the Aragonese sover- eigns. On the right, Frederick II. (d. 1337) and his son John of Randazzo; King Louis (d. 1355) ; Frederick III. (d. 1377) ; Queen Maria, wife of Mar- tin I., and their youthful son Frederick. On the left, the monument of Queen Constance, wife of Frederick III. (d. 1363). The chapel of St. Agata , to the right in the apse , contains the relics of the saint, who was cruelly put to death in the reign of Decius , A.D. 252, by the praetor Quintianus, whose dishonourable overtures she had rejected. Her crown is said to have been presented by Richard Coeur de Lion. The silver sarcophagus is conveyed through the city during the February festival by men in white robes, accompanied by the senate. The women on these occasions cover their faces so as to leave but one eye visible and amuse

S. Nicola. CATANIA. 36. Route. 339

themselves by_ coquetting with the male population. — By the second pillar to the right is the Monument of Bellini, the composer, a native of Catania (1802-35); his remains were brought from Paris, where he died in 1876. — The Sacristy (left) contains a fresco representing the eruption of 1669, by Mignemi.

The sacristan of the cathedral keeps the key of the uninteresting Roman Baths under the Piazza del Duomo, the entrance to which adjoins the cathedral colonnade.

To the S. of the cathedral, at the Fontana dell'Amenano, we reach the Pescheria (PI. E, 5), or fish-market, and thence pass under a large arch to the harbour , which is skirted by the railway viaduct. A small public garden here , called the Villa Pacini or Flora della Marina, is adorned with a bust of G. Pacini (d. 1867), the composer of operas, who was born at Catania in 1796. The public washing-place is in front of the Villa.

The Via Scuto leads to the W. from the Pescheria to the Castel Ursino (PI. D, 6), erected by Frederick II. , and surrounded by lava in 1669. — Thence we proceed by the Via Transito to the Via Gari- baldi, in which is the Piazza Mazzini (PI. E, 5), bounded by a colon- nade with 32 antique marble columns, discovered beneath the mon- astery of 8. Agostino, in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Two similar columns have been introduced beside the window in the facade of the convent church (PI. D, 5). In the same street, to the right, lies the Odeum (see below). — No. 21 in the first cross-street is the entrance to the ancient theatre. (Custodian, Gius. Carofratello, who shows plans of the building, 1 fr. ; he also conducts visitors to the other sights of the town, 2 fr.)

The remains of this Graeco-Roman Theatre (PI. D, 4, 5) are chiefly underground, and some parts of it can only be visited by torch-light, so that it is not easy to obtain a distinct idea of its plan. The Roman structure (diameter 106 yds., orchestra 31 yds.) was erected on the foundations of the Greek. It contained two praecinctiones and nine cunei. It was perhaps here that Alcibiades harangued the assembled Catanians in 415, and induced them to league with Athens against Syracuse. — The adjacent Odeum, 44 yds. in diameter, which is entirely of Roman origin, but after- wards much altered, and only in partial preservation, was probably used for the rehearsals of the players and for musical performances. — Most of the ruins discovered at Catania were excavated during the last century by Prince Ignazio Biscari.

Following the same street to the W. , we pass the church of <S. Maria Botonda (PI. D, 4), a Roman circular building. Behind the high-altar are remains of an ancient edifice of lava and brick ; to the left of the exit, a Romanesque holy-water vessel,

Farther on, the first street diverging to the right ascends to the suppressed Benedictine monastery of S. Nicola, or S. Benedetto (PI. C, D, 4). This establishment, which covers an area of 100,000 sq. yds. , is said to be the most extensive of the kind in Europe after that of Mafra in Portugal. The Church with its unfinished

22*

340 Route 36. CATANIA. University.

facade is a grand baroque edifice. The organ, by Donato del Piano, one of the finest in Europe, possesses 5 key -boards, 72 stops, and 2916 pipes. In the transept is a meridian-mark calculated in 1841 by Sartorius von Waltershausen and Peters; the sacristy be- hind contains a painting by Novelli : Tobias and the Angel. The choir - stalls were carved by Nice. Bagnasco of Palermo. The tower commands an extensive **View ofMt. ^Etna, the town of Catania, the E. coast of Sicily and of Calabria with the Aspromonte (fee to custodian 1 fr.). The monastery was formerly situated at S. Nicola d'Arena , near Nicolosi, but was transferred to its present site in 1518. In 1669 the lava-stream turned aside here, but in 1693 the monastery was destroyed by the earthquake. The present edifice was then erected, and has been inhabited since 1735. All the monks were members of noble families. Since the dissolution of the mon- astery in 1866 the magazines have been converted into barracks, and the other rooms have been fitted up for educational purposes. Some of the rooms contain a Museum of natural curiosities, antiquities, vases, bronzes, works in marble, inscriptions, and mediaeval arms, and also a few paintings by Antonello da Saliba (1497) and others. The library contains 20,000 vols, and 300 MSS. We enter the gateway to the left of the church, and cross the court. The mon- astery contains two large courts, and is bisected by double corridors. The *Garden at the back commands a magnificent view of ^Etna; the entrance is to the right of the church (custodian, see above).

A Roman Bath, complete in almost all its parts, lies under the Carmelite church AW Indirizzo (PI. E, 5). It consists of an un- dressing-room (apodyterium), a fire-room (hypocaustum), a tepid bath (tepidarium), a steam-bath (calidarium) , and a warm water bath (balneum). — In the neighbourhood the custodian points out an interesting fragment of the ancient town- wall, now partly covered by a stream of lava. Below it bubbles up a copious spring, probably issuing from the subterranean river Amenanus, mentioned by Pindar, which comes to light just before it falls into the harbour.

The Via Stesicoko-Etnea (PI. E, 1-4), running from the Piazza del Duorno in the direction of Mtna. (N.) , leads first to the Piazza delV Vniversita, on the left side of which is the University (PI. E, 4), possessing a library of 50,000 vols, founded in 1755, and a fine collection of shells (in the Museo , on the 2nd floor). — We next reach the small Piazza Quattro Cantoni, where the Via Stesicoro-Etnea is crossed by the Strada Lincoln, another of the principal streets running from E. to W. The Strada Lincoln, which crosses the lava-stream of 1669 and leads to the station, has re- cently been levelled to meet the requirements of traffic.

The Via Stesicoro-Etnea next leads to the Piazza Stesicorea (PL E, 3), the S.W. part of which was once occupied by a Roman Amphitheatre. This building, of which there are remains in the Strada Archebusieri, was restored by the sons of Constantine, but

MOUNT .ETNA. 37. Route. 341

partly taken down during the reign of Theodoric in order that its materials might he used in huilding the town-wall. The longeT diameter is 38 yds., the shorter 116 yds. in length.

The Piazza StesicoTeais embellished with a Monument to Bellini (1802-1835) , a native of Catania, erected in 1882. The sitting figure of the composer and the figures on the pedestal representing his chief operas (Norma, Pirata, La Somnambula, I Puritani) were all executed by Monteverde of Rome.

In the vicinity is the church of S. Carcere (PL E, 3), with an interesting Graeco-Norman *Portal of the 11th eentury. The small marble statue in a sitting posture on the front column on the left is said to he that of Emp. Frederick II. In the interior is preserved an impression of the feet of St. Agata in marble.

Beyond this point the Via Stesicoro-Etnea is uninteresting. Near the Piazza del Borgo it takes the name of Strada Etnea, and in this part of the street is situated the *Villa Bellini (PI. E, 2), which deserves a visit for its tasteful grounds and the pleasant views they command. It contains busts of Bellini and other famous natives of Catania , of Cavour and others, and a statue of Mazzini. The lava has in many places been laid hare below the walls of the new terrace. Concert on three evenings weekly in summer.

8. Maria di Oesit (PL D, 1), to the N.W. of the town, contains sculptures by Gagini. Near it are remains of Roman tombs.

A pleasant excursion may be made from Catania to the Cyclopean Islands (p. 332); driving is preferable to walking, as the road (6 M.) is dusty.

37. Mount .ffitna.

The best season for the ascent of JEtna, is the summer or autumn (July-Sept.). In spring the snow is a serious obstacle , and in winter the guides object to undertake the ascent. In spring only experienced mountaineers should attempt the ascent, if only because the guides some- times prove quite unequal to the difficulties that arise (in any case a compass should not be forgotten). A moonlight night is always desirable, though lanterns may be used in case of need. As the elements are very capricious here , the traveller must frequently be satisfied with a view oi the crater only, which, however, alone repays the fatigue. In settled weather , when the smoke ascends calmly, and the outline of the moun- tain is clear, a fine view may with tolerable certainty be anticipated. If, on the other hand, the smoke is driven aside by the wind which fre- quently prevails on the summit, the prospect is partly, ifnotentirelyobscured.

Guides and Mules. A Section of the Italian, Alpine Club, by which guides and the various arrangements for the ascent of Mt. Mtna, are superintended, is now established at Catania (office, Via Lincoln 197, where information is most courteously supplied)). It has granted certificates to a number of guides, who wear a badge with the initials C. A. I. and a number, and are provided with a 'libretto di approvazione\ Only these guides should be employed ; and in case of disputes travellers should apply to the superintendent of guides (Capo Cuida, p. 343) or to the director of the Alpine Club at Catania. There are several places on the skirts of Mt. JEtns. where these guides may be obtained, the chief of which is at Mcolosi (p. 346), not only for the 'grande aseensione' or ascent to the summit, but also for a visit to the lava-stream of 1886. Others are at Randazzo (p. 333), for the craters of 1874 and 1879, and for the N. side

342 Route 37. MOUNT ^ETNA. Carriages.

generally; Biancavilla (p. 335), for the Monte Calvario, the Grotta di Sella, and the scene of the S.W. eruption of 1879.

The following is the Tariff of the Alpine Club (small additional gratuity customary).

Ascent of Mt. jEtna, and back, from Nicolosi. Guide (Ouida) 12 fr. ; Apprentice Ouide (Allievo-Guida) 9fr. [The Apprentice Guides are thoroughly trustworthy and efficient young men, who have not yet received a guide's certificate. They are, however, not permitted to take part in an ascent except as the assistant of a regular guide.] The guides are bound to carry, luggage to the weight of 1772 lbs., or 11 lbs. if riding. Porter (to carry 40 lbs.) 10 fr. Mule (burden not to exceed 220 lbs.) 11 fr. The Capo Guida decides how many guides or mules must be taken; usually under favourable circumstances one guide and one or more allievi are sufficient for a party of travellers. For the use of an alpenstock 72fr.; pair of gloves V'-fr.; candles :/2 fr. each ; admission to the Osservatorio or Casa Inglese costs 8 fr., for members of the Alpine Club or of the C. A. I. 4 fr. ; water for the mules at the Casa delBosco, 50c. each. — If the traveller ride, a mule (lOfr.) must also be provided for the guide, which, however, can also carry the provisions, wraps, etc. No mule is taken for an 'Allievo-Guida\ Higher charges are made for the descent to other places, or for the ascent from Linguaglossa, Zafferana, or Biancavilla.

Ascent to the Monti Rossi (p. 346). Guide 3 fr., Mule 2 fr. — Ascent to the Monte Gemellaeo (p. 346). Guide 1 fr., Mule 5 fr. — Round Mte. Gemellaeo. Guide 8 fr., Mule 6 fr.

Carriages. The usual charge for a two -horse carriage to Nicolosi, which remains there during the night, and conveys the traveller back to Catania next day via, Trecastagni, is 25-30 fr., with an additional gratuity of 3-5 fr. ('tutto compreso'). One-horse carr. 15 fr. and 2-3 fr. gratuity. Those who walk or ride to Nicolosi may engage a carriage for the return only (with one horse 10, with two 15 fr. and 1-2 fr. fee). (Carriage of course preferable for the return to Catania after a fatiguing ride of 10-12 hrs., although the charges are exorbitant.)

Even in hot weather the traveller should not fail to be provided with an overcoat or plaid, as the wind on the mountain is often bitterly cold. In winter or spring, when the snow is still unmelted, a veil or coloured spectacles will be found useful. Large spectacles are also advantageous in a high wind as a protection against the dust. In general the equipment for alpine ascents suggests what is necessary here; warm gloves, woollen stockings, and strong shoes are of course indispensable.

Provisions for the ascent, including water, had better be procured at Nicolosi. Suitable baskets , containing strong coffee in bottles , wine, bread, cold meat, and salt, may be ordered at the hotels.

Distances. From Catania to Nicolosi by carriage in 21/2 hrs., returning in l1/.! hr. ; on foot from Borgo di Catania, to which point driving is ad- visable (omnibus 10 c), in 372, back in 2 hrs. Mule from Nicolosi to the Casa del Bosco 3-372 hrs., thence to the Osservatorio 4-5 hrs. ; on foot from Nicolosi (not advisable) 7-8 hrs. (halts not included). From the Osservatorio to the crater, on foot only, in IV4-IV2 nr- i bait on the summit and descent to the Osservatorio 2-272 hrs.; thence to Nicolosi 4-5 hrs.

Flan of Excursion. In winter or spring travellers are advised to drive in the afternoon from Catania to Nicolosi, so as to have the entire night for the ascent. Mules are taken only to the snow -line, generally indeed only to the Casa del Bosco. The observatory is closed at this season. The summit should be quitted for the return before the sun has melted the snow too much. — In summer and autumn the ascent is usually made as follows: — Drive from Catania to Nicolosi in the morning, breakfast, and start again at 10 a.m., reaching the Casa del Bosco at 1.30 p.m.; rest here for 1 hr., and then -ascend to the Osservatorio, where the guides usually prepare soup (brodo , Eng. broth) from meat brought for the purpose. Several hours of repose are enjoyed here, the ascent not being resumed till 2 or 2.30 a.m., and the summit is gained at 3.15 or 3.45 a.m. — The guides should be required to observe punctually the prescribed hours 01 starting , in order that the traveller may neither arrive too late

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Vegetation. MOUNT ./ETNA. 37. Route. 343

at the Osservatorio nor be surprised by the sunrise before reacliirm the top. Those_ who pass the night in Nicolosi may begin the ascent about 8 a.m. It is hardly advisable to start from Nicolosi in the afternoon, and make part of the ascent during the night.

An excellent map of ^Etna and its environs was published by Sartoriiis von Waltershausen in 1848-59 ^JEtna\ Gottingen and Weimar; 2nd edit., by Lasaulx, Leipzig, 1880).

Mount .ffitna (10,835 ft. J, Italian Etna and Sicilian Mongibello (from 'monte' and 'jebel', the Arabic for mountain), commonly called 'it Monte', is the loftiest volcano in Europe, as well as the highest mountain in Italy. There are three different zones of vegetation on the slopes of jEtna. The first extends beyond Nicolosi, called the Piemontese or Coltivata, and yielding the usual Sicilian products. Up to a height of 1600 ft. grow large groves of oranges and lemons ; higher up the vine predominates, being occasionally seen at a height of 3600 ft. The next zone is the Boscosa or Nemorosa, extending to 6900 ft. and subdivided into two regions. The lower of these (2200-4200 ft.) is clothed chiefly with oaks and chestnuts, above which are copper-beeches (Fagus silvatica) and birches (Betula alba and Betula Etnensis). On the N.E. side, at a height of 6700 ft., are extensive forests of Laricio pines (Pinus Laricio, Sicil. zappinu), the only lofty coniferous trees among the forests of Mt. iEtna. In the highest zone, the Regione Deserta, from 6900 ft. to the summit, the vegetation is of a most stunted descrip- tion. Even at a height of 6200 ft. the beeches become dwarfed. Owing to the scarcity of water and the frequent changes in the sur- face of the soil no Alpine flora can exist here, but there is a narrow zone of sub-Alpine shrubs, most of which occur also in the upper part of the wooded region. About forty species of plants only are found here, among which are the barberry, juniper, Viola gracilis, and Saponaria depressa. Within the last 2000 ft. five phanerogam- ous species only flourish : Senecio Etnensis, Anthemis Etnensis, Robertsia taraxacoides (these three peculiar to ./Etna), Tanacetum vulgare, and Astragalus Siculus, which last grows in tufts of 3-4 ft. in diameter. The Senecio Etnensis is found as high as the vi- cinity of the crater, several hundred feet above the Osservatorio. Not a trace of animal life can be detected on the higher portion oi the mountain. The black silent waste, glittering in the sun- shine, produces an impression seldom forgotten by those who have witnessed it. On the lower parts of the mountain, wolves, as well as hares, rabbits, and a few wild boars, are the usual ob- jects of the chase. .(Etna is clothed with fourteen different forests, which, however, present no definite line of demarcation. Ferns (especially the Pteris aquilina) frequently take the place of underwood. The densest forests are the Boschi delta Cerrila and di Linguaglossa on the N.E. side, which, however, suffered greatly from the eruption of 1865. As lately as the 16th cent, impenetrable forests extended from the summit down to the vallly of the Alcantara, and Cardinal Bembo extols the beauty of

344 Route 37. MOUNT .ETNA. Eruptions.

the groves of plane-trees. About the beginning of last century up- wards of one-third of the E. coast of Sicily was still overgrown with forest.

Eruptions. ^Etna has been known as a volcano from the earliest ages. At one time the mountain has been represented as the prison of the giant Enceladus or Typhosus, at another as the forge of Vulcan. It is, however, remarkable that the Greek mar- iners' traditions in Homer do not allude to its volcanic character. Pindar, on the other hand, describes an eruption of B.C. 476, and a violent outbreak in prehistoric times made the Sicanians abandon the district. About eighty eruptions fall within the limits of history. The most violent were those of B.C. 396, 126, and 122, and A.D. 1169, 1329, 1537, and 1669. The last of these, one of the most stupendous of all, has been described by the naturalist Borelli. On that occasion the Monti Rossi were formed, 27,000 persons were deprived of all shelter, and many lives were lost in the rapidly descending streams of lava. In 1693 an eruption was accompanied by a fearful earthquake, which partially or totally destroyed forty towns, and caused a loss of 60-100,000 lives. An eruption took place in 1755, the year of the earthquake at Lisbon, and others in 1766 and 1792. The last has been described by Ferrara. In the present century there have been nineteen erup- tions, an average of one every four or five years. The most violent were those of 1812, 1819, 1843, 1852, and 1865. The first of these lasted six weeks and the second two months ; the three last- mentioned were especially active at Bronte, Zafferana, and at the foot of Mte. Frumento to the N.E. of the principal crater respect- ively. The eruption of 1865 was accompanied by an earthquake which destroyed the village of La Macchia. JEtna, has again been in eruption in 1868, 1869, 1874, 1879, 1883, 1886, and 1892.

The most violent recent eruptions were those of 1879 and 1886. The former (26th May to 6th June, 1879) occurred on the N. slope, and was accompanied by the unusual phenomenon of a simultaneous out- break of lava on the W.S.W. of the crater, which, however, ceased flowing at a height of 6500 ft. On the N.N.E. side the lava first appeared in the crater of 1874, near Monte Grigio. Here, at a height of 4705 ft. above the sea, it formed a new crater, which Prof. Silvestri, who witnessed its formation, has named Monte Umberto- Margherita. The lava poured forth in large masses from an opening at the foot of this elevation. Its descent was at first at the rate of about 15 ft. per minute, afterwards 3-6 ft. per minute, and finally 30-40 ft. per hour. In its course it devastated a large tract of culti- vated ground (valued at upwards of 20,000Z.), crossed the road from Linguaglossa to Randazzo (p. 334), and did not cease to flow till it had almost reached the river Alcantara. The superficial area of this stream of lava amounts to 2,720,000 sq. yds., while that on the S.W. side covers 135,000 sq. yds. only.

Eruptions. MOUNT JSTNA. 37. Route. 345

- The eruption of 1886 was threatened since 1883. On 22nd March of that year, earthquakes and loud reports were followed by the formation of a fissure on the S. side of the mountain, to the E. of Monte Concilio (marked 'Co' on our map). No farther effects were observed, and although Prof. Silvestri prophesied another outbreak on the same spot, the volcano remained comparatively quiescent for three years. On 18th May 1886, however, the large central crater resumed activity and emitted dense clouds of steam and showers of ashes. Early the next morning a violent earthquake was felt on the S. slope of the mountain, and a new crater, about 4650 ft. above the sea-level, was formed to the N.E. of Monte Con- cilio, about il/i M. above Nicolosi, from the summit of which steam , molten stone, and ashes were hurled , amid crashes and reports like thunder. From the S. base of this new hill, now known as Monte Oemellaro ('Ge' on our map), molten lava poured down the mountain, at the rate of 160-190 ft. per hour. The fury of the eruption reached its height on 21st May. The lava continued to flow in the direction of Nicolosi, the terror-stricken inhabitants of which bore the pictures of the saints from the churches in a supplicatory procession to the so-called Altarelli, a building dedicated to the patron-saints of the village, and situated about 1 M. above it on a small eminence. On the evening of the 24th, the bishop of Catania solemnly displayed the Veil of St. Agata. Three days later the lava -stream reached the Altarelli, but divided at the eminence and gradually slackened its speed. Another stream , however, on the E. side of Monte Rosso, made straight for Nicolosi. At midday on 31st May, the prefect ordered the village to be evacuated, and guarded the approach to it with soldiers. On 3rd June, how- ever, the lava ceased flowing, within 370 yds. of the first hou- ses, and next day the eruption ended with another earthquake. This eruption, though one of the most violent of the century, was less important than those of 1865, 1852, and 1843. The length of the lava-stream is about 4 M., it covers an area of more than 1000 acres and destroyed vineyards and cultivated lands to the value of 50,0002. An eruption of some violence occurred in July-Sept. 1892. **Ascbnt. We quit Catania by the long Strada Etnea, and pass a long succession of country-residences. If time permits, the tra- veller should visit the park of the Marchese S. Giuliano, at Licatia, a little to the right of the road. By the Barriera the road divides, that to Nicolosi leading to the left, between the two obelisks. The ascent becomes more rapid; Qravina is passed, then Mas- calueia (3000 inhab.), and farther on Torre di Orifo [Torrelifo, 1750 ft.). Between this and Nicolosi we traverse the barren sur- face of the lava-stream of 1537. The rounded and at places tree- like bushes of broom (Genista Etnensis)here form a peculiar feature in the scene. To the right of the road, about */2 M. from Nicolosi, is the crater called the Orotta del Bove, which may be visited in

346 Route 37. MOUNT .ETNA. Ascent.

passing (no path, through a doorway in a wall). To the left tower the reddish cones of the Monti Rossi (see below).

Nicolosi (2265 ft. ; *H6tel dell' Etna, kept by Mazzaglia, mod- erate, basket of provisions for li/2 day, 7 fr. each person ; Alb. fy Trattoria Liotta, well spoken of, tariff-prices), a village with 2700 inhab., 9 M. to the N.W. of Catania, is the usual starting-pointfor an ascent of Mt. .Etna. The traveller should at once apply to the 'Capo-Guida', in the Vfficio delle Guide, and make the needful arrangements with him (comp. p. 341). Those who intend to sleep at Nicolosi should arrive in time to make an excursion to the Monti Rossi, the so-called Fratelli (3110 ft., in 2-3 hrs., there and back; guide, not indispensable for experts, see p. 342) the same afternoon. Beyond Nicolosi we skirt the cemetery to the right, after a few min. enter a garden on the right, climb the low lava-wall, and ascend, at first in the depression between the peaks , to the summit on the left. The top commands a fine view, especially of the lava-field of 1886. — A visit to the Monte Oemellaro (p. 345) requires nearly a day. The best route passes the Monte Arso, where there is a cistern containing water in the house of Sign. Auteri. To the foot of the crater, a ride of 5 hrs. ; the cone must be ascended on foot. On the way to .Etna we pass the country-houses of Sign. Bruno and Sign. Bonanno, skirt the Monti Rossi to the W. , and then cross part of the lava-stream of 1886. In 3-3'/2 nrs> we reach the Casa del Bosco (4215 ft.), at the W. base of the Monte Rinazzi. Near it good drinking-water is to be had, of which the guides carry away a supply. In the vicinity are several other houses, including one belonging to the Duke Alba in a chestnut -plant- ation. The path winds through a hollow between smaller extinct volcanoes , until , about 6900 ft. above the sea , it enters the Regione Deserta. The ascent is at first gradual. To the right is seen the Montagnuola (8670 ft.), the W. extremity of the Serra del Solfizio, below which to the S. are hollows filled with snow. To the N. this ridge descends perpendicularly to a depth of 2-3000 ft. to the Valle del Bove , round which the traveller proceeds by the Piano del Lago , after a short but precipitous part of the ascent. As we approach the Osservatorio (or Casa Inglese ,• 9600 ft.), the mules begin to show signs of fatigue and impatience to reach their destination. This house, which is almost indispensable to the climber of .Etna, was erected by order of several English officers at the beginning of the century during the occupation of Sicily. After having stood for fifty years, during which it had been maintained chiefly by the brothers Gemellaro of Nicolosi, the hut was repaired in 1862, and more recently it was improved and enlarged by the Italian Alpine Club. Com- plaints, however, have been made of the want of cleanliness. The Observatory, for astronomical and meteorological purposes, was opened in 1887 and is under the superintendence of Prof. Tacchini.

Crater. MOUNT ^ETNA. 37. Route. 347

We now begin the ascent of the 6rater, the most laborious portion of the expedition. The height appears inconsiderable, but nearly 1000 ft. have still to be ascended. The walking on the lower part of the cone, on ashes yielding at every step, is uncomfortable. When the firm rock is reached, the ascent becomes easier.

In 1 hr. we attain the brink of the Crater, the form of which undergoes constant alteration. At one time it consists of a single profound abyss, '2-3 M. in circumference, at another it is divided by a barrier into two parts, one of which only emits smoke. The summit itself is usually altered by every eruption. In 1861, it was on the E. side, in 1864 on the W., and even ancient writers expressed their belief that the crater sank to some extent after every eruption.

After a short pause the highest peak (10,835 ft.) is easily ascend- ed, as the surface is soft. From this spot the Sunrise, a spectacle of indescribable grandeur, should be witnessed. The summit is illumined by the morning twilight whilst all below is enveloped in profound obscurity. The sun still reposes in the sea, which occasionally presents the appearance of a lofty bank of clouds, the horizon being considerably more elevated than the spectator would expect. For some time purple clouds have indicated the point where the sun is about to appear. Suddenly a ray of light flits across the surface of the water, gradually changing to a golden streak , the lower part of which shimmers in an intense purple as it widens. The beaming disc then slowly emerges. The mountains of Calabria still cast their long shadows on the sea; the top of jEtna alone is bathed in sunshine. The light gradually descends to the lower parts of the mountain, and the dark violet shadow which the vast pyramid casts over Sicily to the W. deepens. The outlines of the cone and its summit are distinctly recognised, forming a colossal isosceles triangle on the surface of the island. After !/4 hr. the sublime spectacle is over, and the flood of light destroys the effeot produced by the shadows. The deep valleys and the precipitous coast alone remain for a time in obscurity, being shaded by the loftier mountains. As the sun continues to ascend, new points become visible. The spectator stands at the centre of a vast circle of 260 M. in diameter and 800 M. in circumference. Towards the N.E. is the peninsula of Calabria, above which masses of clouds frequently hover on the N., giving it the appearance of an island. The Faro of Messina (the town not visible) lies at our feet, the Neptunian Mts. appear like insignificant hills , and the Nebrode only a degree higher. The Pizzo di Palermo, the highest point of the Madonie range to the W.N.W., and the Pizzo of Corleone and Cammarata to the W- are the only conspicuous points. In winter, when the atmosphere is unusually clear, the motion of the waves on the shores of the island is said to be distinguish-

348 Route 37. MOUNT jETNA. Valle del Bove.

able. The coast of Africa, being below the horizon, cannot possibly be visible, notwithstanding the assurances of the guides. Malta, however, may be distinguished. The greater part of the E. coast of the island is visible ; the Lipari islands appear to greet their majestic sovereign with their columns of smoke ; the pro- montory of Milazzo extends far into the sea ; and numerous other points, whioh cannot be enumerated, are descried.

After a walk round the crater (which, however, is rendered impracticable by the smoke in a high wind, comp. p. 341), we descend rapidly to the Osservatorio and remount our mules. In descending, we make a slight digression towards the E. in order to approach the upper margin of the Valle del Bove, a black, desolate gulf, 3 M. in width, bounded on three sides by perpendicular cliffs, 2000-4000 ft. in height (left Serra delle Concazze, right Serra del Solfizio), and opening towards the E. only. Geologically this basin is the most remarkable part of ^Etna, as its S.W. angle, the so- called Balzo di Trifoglietto, where the descent is steepest and most precipitous, was very probably the original crater of the mountain. — The traveller should not omit to direct the guides to conduct him to the two regular cones whence an eruption in 1852 proceeded.

Geologists may make the fatiguing descent to Zafferana (poor accom- modation at Francesca Barbara's) in order to view the immense lava-streams (see p. 344) in the Valle del Bove; a visit there and back from Catania takes I1/2 day.

From the upper margin of the Valle del Bove we ride to the Torre del Filosofo (9570 ft.), the traditional observatory of Empedocles , who is said to have sought a voluntary death in the crater. According to others it was used as a watch-tower in ancient times. As the building is obviously of Roman con- struction, it was possibly erected on the occasion of the Emperor Hadrian's ascent of the mountain to witness the sunrise. The descent now recommences; the steeper portions are more easily and safely traversed on foot. Before reaching the plain of Nicolosi, we see the convent of S. Nicola d' Arena to the left, where the Ben- edictines of Catania used to celebrate their vintage-festival. It was founded in 1156 by Simon, Count of Policastro, nephew of Roger I.

Instead of returning to Catania, the traveller may prefer to proceed from Nicolosi via, Pedara and Viagrande to Acireale, (p. 332), and thence by the high-road to Qiardini (p. 326).

38. From Catania to Syracuse.

54 M. Railway, three trains daily in 31/4 hrs. ( fares 9 fr. 85, 6 fr. 90, 4 fr. 45 c). — Steamboat twice weekly in 4 hrs. ; from Syracuse to Malta, see p. 376.

The railway intersects the Piano di Catania, the Campi Lae- .ilrygonii, which Cicero extols as the 'uberrima pars Sicilies', and which are still regarded as the granary of the island. To the right lies the town of Misterbianco (p. 336).

LENTINI. 38. Route. 349

5 M. Bicocca, junction for Girgenti and Palermo (R. 29). 10 M. Passo Martino. The train crosses the Simeto (Symaethus), and beyond it the Gurnalunga. Lower down, these streams unite to form the Giarretta. In winter the whole plain is frequently under water, and the high-road impassable. Malaria prevails in the lower parts in summer. The railway traverses the hilly ground. Tunnel. 15 M. Valsavoia.

A Bkanch Railway runs hence to Scordia, &>l/2 M., in 40 min. (fares 1 fr. 60, 1 fr. 15, 75 c). 6 M. Leone, from which a diligence plies to Calta- girone (p. 302). 8'/2 M. Scordia is noted for its fine oranges.

The train now approaches the Lago di Lentini, frequented by innumerable waterfowl in winter. This lake, the largest in Sicily, did not exist in ancient times. It is usually swollen in winter, while in summer its exhalations poison the atmosphere (Lentini is therefore to be avoided as a sleeping-place). Its circumference varies from 9l/2 t0 12y2 M., according to the height of the water.

18 M. Lentini. The town is about 3 M. from the station.

Lentini (Albergo Centrale, with trattoria, well spoken of), a town with 11,000 inhab., the ancient Leontinoi, one of the earliest Greek settlements in Sicily, was founded in B.C. 729 by colonists from Naxos under Theocles, sim- ultaneously with Catana. A century later the transition from oligarchy to democracy was succeeded by the establishment of a tyranny by Panaetius, who is said to have been the first tyrant in Sicily. After another century the town succumbed to Hippocrates, tyrant of Gela, and thus became subject to the tyrants Gelon, Hiero, and Thrasybulus of Syracuse. It' afterwards regained its independence, but was again subdued by Syracuse, and to some extent gave rise to the war with Athens. Gorgias, the great orator and sophist, was a native of Leontinoi (480-380), and it was by his persuasive eloquence, as is well known, that the Athenians were induced to intervene in the quarrels of the Sicilians. After the disastrous issue of the war, Leontinoi continued subject to Syracuse ; but Timoleon at length expelled the tyrant Hicetas and restored its independence. In the 3rd cent, it came into the power of Hiero II., whose successor Hieronymus lost his life here. Polybius, who records this event, at the same time describes the situation of the town. It appears to have lain to the S.W. of the present town, and not where topographers usually place it. Under the Romans it was of little importance. The Saracens gained possession of it at an early period. In the middle ages the fortress was besieged several times, and bravely defended. The town and castle were almost totally destroyed by the earthquake of 1693.

A road ascends in long windings from Lentini to Carlenlini, a poor town with 5500 inhab., founded by Charles V. (whence the name).

From Lentini, or from Augusta, a visit may be paid to the tomb-ca- verns of Pantalica, to the N. of Palazzolo (p. 306) ; carriage there and back in one day 25 fr.

The train now turns to the E. towards the coast, following the valley of the 8. Leonardo (the Terias of the ancients), which it afterwards crosses. This river, now an insignificant stream in a shallow valley bounded by limestone hills, was down to the 12th cent, navigable for sea-going vessels as far as Lentini.

24 M. Agnone. To the left the so-called Pantano, a marshy pond, becomes visible. 31 M. Brucoli. The line skirts the lofty coast. Large salt-works are passed. At the mouth of the Porcari (the an- cient Pantacyas), s.which here breaks its way through the hills, lay Trotilon, one of the earliest Greek settlements in Sicily.

350 Route 38. AUGUSTA.

351/2 M. Augusta, a fortified seaport with 11,900 inhab., was founded by Frederick II. in 1232, and peopled with the inhabitants of Oenturipe (p. 301), which was destroyed in 1233. It occupies the site of the ancient Xiphonia. The town was conquered and destroyed several times in the middle ages. In 1676 it was taken by .the French, and Duquesne here defeated De Ruyter, who died of his wounds at Syracuse (see p. 354). In 1693 the town was severely damaged by the earthquake.

The railway follows the coast. The Megarean Bay of antiquity, extending from the Capo S. Croce, E. of Augusta, to the Capo S. Pa- nagia near Syracuse, was formerly bordered with a number of towns. Here from N. to S. lay Xiphonia, Megara Hyblaea, and Alabon. Me- gara Hyblaea, which was situated between the mouths of the Alcan- tara and S. Ousmano, was founded in 728 by colonists from Megara near Athens, conquered and destroyed by Gelon, but re-erected af- ter the Athenian and Syracusan war as an outlying fort of Syracuse.

39 M. Lumidoro. On the hills to the right lies the small town of Melilli, where the Hyblaean honey, so highly extolled by the poets, was produced. On 1st and 2nd May a vast concourse of people as- sembles at Melilli to offer thanks to St. Sebastian for the miraculous cures effected by him, and to celebrate his festival.

44 M. Priolo; the village lies to the right. To the left is the peninsula of Magnisi, connected with the mainland by a narrow isthmus. This was the peninsula of Thapsus, well known in connection with the Athenian campaign. The Athenian fleet lay to the N. of the isthmus. Salt-works are now situated here.

About IV2 M. from Priolo stands the 'Torre del Marcello\ probably the remains of a tomb, but commonly reputed to be a trophy erected here by Marcellus on the site of his camp after the conquest of Syracuse.

The train now skirts the Trogilus, the bay where the fleet of Marcellus lay, and approaches the terrace which extended from the Belvedere to Capo S. Panagia and bore the N. Dionysian town- wall of the Achradina. It crosses the wall near the Tyche quarter of the town, runs eastwards to Capo S. Panagia, and finally skirts the precipitous E. margin of the bare, rocky plateau. 50 M. S. Pa- nagia. Passing the (r.) Capuchin Monastery with its Latomia, we at length reach —

54 M. Stat. Siracusa, 3/4 M. from the town (one-horse carriage 90 c, two-horse 1 fr. 20 c. ; at night 1 fr. 40 or 1 fr. 70 c).

39. Syracuse.

Hotels (bargain advisable ; electric light at all,). Hotel des Eteangees Casa Politi, Piazza Nizza (PI. C, 4), with baths, R., L., & A. 2y2-5V2, B. IV4, dej. 3, D. 41/2 (t)oth incl. wine), pens. 7-12 (for stay of 5 days or more), omn. 1 fr. ; Vittokia (PI. b;.B, 2), Via Mirabella 32, in the town, without view, newly fitted up, R., L., & A. 3Vs, B. 1, dej. 3, D. 5 (both incl. wine), pens. 10, omn. 1 fr. (new building on the Marina proposed): Koma, Via Roma 11 (PI. C, 4), R., L.,&A. l3/4-3, dig. 2>/i, D. 4i/2 pens

17. Tribunate e Assisie

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Guides. SYRACUSE. 39. Route. 351

5-7 (all incl. wine), omn. 1 fr., usually well spoken of; Albeego del Sole, Corso Vitt. Emanuele, near the quay, R., L., & A. 172-272, dej. 2, D. 3J/2 (both incl- wine), pens. 6V2, omn. 1 fr., mediocre.

Restaurants. Roma, see p. 350; Trattoria del Piemontese, opposite the Croce di Savoia Cafe. — Muscato, Amarena, Isola Bianco, and other Syra- cusan wines may be procured. Among the favourite varieties of fish are the Rivetto (large, but delicate), Salamone, Dentici (so called from its large teeth), and Palamito (resembling salmon).

Cafe. "Croce di Savoia, Piazza del Duomo. — Near the piazza is a Club, well supplied with Italian newspapers (visitors readily admitted).

Cabs. From the station to the town, see p. 350. — Drive in the town, with one horse 50 c., with two horses 80 c. ; at night 1 fr. or 1 fr. 30 c. — Per hour IV2 or 2 fr., at night 2 or 2'/2 fr. ; each additional half-hour 60 or 80 c, and 80"C or 1 fr. Carriages may generally be hired at a lower rate in the Piazza del Duomo; at the hotels, double fare is charged. — Luggage 20 c, if over a hundredweight 40 c.

Guides (fee 8-10 fr. for a whole day). Salvatore Politi, Michel Angelo Politi (speaks a little French), Oabriele Vairo, Albergo Vittoria, Felice Va- lerio, Strada Eesalibera 14 (speaks English, French, etc.), Richard Zunke, etc.

Donkeys, about 3 fr. per day.

Boats. To the Cyane (p. 364) 6-8 fr. ; to the mouth of the Anapo only, l'/2-2 fr. — The boatmen here are generally less extortionate in their demands than those in other parts of Italy. To or from the steamboats '/2 fr. for each person. Ferry from the town to the Sicilian coast (Pozzo degli Ingegneri) or across the small harbour to the N., 10 c. ; pedestrians thus effect a considerable saving.

Steamboats of the Florio - Rubattino Co. on Tues. and Frid. at 8 a.m. to Catania, Messina, and Palermo ; on Mon. at 11 p.m. to Terranova , Li- cata, Girgenti, Sciacca, Trapani, and Palermo (see p. 276). On Sun. and Wed. at 9.30 p.m. and 11 p.m. to Malta (see p. 376).

Post and Telegraph Office, Via Roma. — Diligence to Palazzolo, see p. 307.

British Vice-Consul. Sig. Nicola Bisani.

Attractions. If the traveller has one day only at his disposal , he should devote but a few hours to the modern town, and the rest of the day to the ancient city ; and he should not omit to visit the Greek theatre at sunset. The chief points of the ancient town may be visited by carriage in 3-4 hrs. , if Fort Euryelus and Telegrafo be omitted. — Two days at least should, however, be devoted to Syracuse if possible, and in this case an excursion may be made to the valley of the Anapo. There are many pleasant walks in the neighbourhood, and with the aid of the map and the following directions the most interesting points may be found without a guide. Bread and cheese and also good wine are obtained in the nu- merous osterie, and the traveller may supplement these by carrying with him some eggs or cold meat.

Syracuse, which was in ancient times the most important town in Sicily, and indeed the most important of all the Hellenic cities, now contains 23,600 inhab. only. It is situated on an island close to the coast, and is the seat of a prefect and a bishop, hut its trade is unimportant. The hay on the W. side of the town is the Porto Grande , the entrance to which between the S. extremity of the island and the opposite promontory of Massolivieri , the ancient Plemmyrion , is 1300 yds. in width. The N. bay is named the Small Harbour. In the height of its prosperity Syracuse contained no fewer than 500,000 inhab., and it extended over a large tract of the lofty coast to the N.W. This is one of the most interesting points in Sicily, its natural beauties vying with its great classical attractions.

352 Route 39. SYRACUSE. History.

Syracuse was founded in 734 by Corinthians under ArcMas on the island of Ortygia, where a Phoenician settlement had probahly been established at an earlier period. The Sikelian inhabitants were reduced to the con- dition of serfs, and compelled to cultivate the soil. The government was "conducted by the aristocracy, the descendants of the founders, who were called Gamores. Owing to the fertility of the soil, the colony rapidly rose to prosperity, and within 70 years after its establishment founded Acres (Palazzolo) and Henna (Castrogiovanni), and 20 years later Casmense. (It is probable, however, that Henna was of later origin.) Camarina was founded in 599. The final issue of the contests carried on with varying success between the nobles and the people was, that Oelon in 485 extended his supremacy from Gela to Syracuse, to which he transferred his residence. He contributed in every respect to the aggrandisement of the city, and, after he had in conjunction with Theron defeated the Carthaginians at Himera in 480, the golden era of the Greek supremacy in Sicily began. During a long series of years the fortunes of the whole island were now interwoven with those of Syracuse. Gelon, who reigned -for seven years only, was, after his death in 478, revered as a demigod -and the 'second founder of the city'.

He was succeeded by his brother Hiero I. whose rule was characterised by the same energy and good fortune. He defeated the formidable Etruscans (p. 103) near Cumse ; and at his court JEschylus, Pindar, Simonides, Epicharmus, Sophron, and Bacchylides flourished. After a reign of 11 years only he was succeeded by Thrasybulus, the youngest of the three brothers.

Notwithstanding his army of 15,000 mercenaries , Thrasybulus was banished from the city in the year of his accession (467), and a Democracy .was established. In the conflicts with the Sikelian prince Ducetius and the Acragantines the army of Syracuse maintained its superiority, and the .supremacy of the city gradually extended over a great part of the island.

Syracuse was afterwards reduced to great extremities by the Athenians, whose aid had been invoked by the Egestans. In B.C. 415 they accordingly sent a fleet of 134 triremes to Sicily under Nicias and Lamachus , hoping to conquer the island and thus extend their supremacy over the western Mediterranean. At first the Athenians were successful, especially in the summer of 414 when they stormed the loftily situated Epipolse, and almost entirely surrounded the city with a double wall, extending from the Trogilus to the great harbour. The beleaguered city was on the point of capitulating when the Spartan Gylippus, who had landed on the N. side of the island with a small army, came to its relief, and succeeded in making his way into it through an opening in the Athenian wall. With his aid the citizens gradually recovered strength, and gained possession of the Plemmyrium, the promontory at the entrance to the harbour opposite Ortygia, and then occupied by Nicias. Once more, indeed, the nautical skill of the Athenians enabled them to defeat the Syracusan fleet off the harbour, and they erected a trophy on the small island of La Galera below Plemmyrium ; but this was their last success. In another naval battle the Syracusans were victorious , while the prospects of the Athe- nians were tmt temporarily improved by the arrival of Demosthenes with auxiliaries. A desperate attempt made by the latter by night to capture the heights of Epipolfe, and thus to avoid the Syracusan intrenchments which confined the Athenians to the vicinity of the Great Harbour, was repulsed with great slaughter. Disease broke out among the Athenians, and their misfortunes were aggravated by dissensions among their generals. The retreat was finally determined on , but was frustrated by an eclipse of the moon (27th Aug. 413) and by the superstition of Nicias. The Syra- cusans then resolved to endeavour to annihilate their enemy. They were again victorious in a naval battle , and enclosed their harbour by a series of vessels, anchored and connected by chains across the entrance, 8 stadia in width. The decisive encounter now approached. The two land-armies were stationed on the bank of the harbour and stimulated the combatants by loud shouts, whilst the fluctuating tide of success elicited alternate expressions of joy and grief, which have been so graphically described by Thucydides as resembling the surging of a

History. SYRACUSE. 39. Route. 353

dramatic chorus. The Athenians were overpowered. On the following day the crews refused to attempt again to force a passage, and on the third day the retreat was commenced by land in the direction of the interior of the island. To the W. of Floridia, however, the pass was obstructed (comp. p. 307), and the ill-fated Athenians were compelled to return to the coast. Here they were overtaken by the Syracusans. Demosthenes with 6000 men was compelled to surrender, and after a fearful struggle on the Asinarus , near Noto , Nicias met with the same fate. Few escaped. The generals were executed, and the prisoners languished for eight months in the Latomise, after which the survivors were sold as slaves, with the exception of a few who are said to have been set at liberty on account of their skill in reciting the verses of Euripides. Thus was the power of mighty Athens shattered against the walls of Syracuse, never again to recover its ancient prestige; and Thucydides justly observes that 'this event was the most important which befel the Greeks during this war (the Peloponnesian), or indeed in any others in Greek history which are known to us.'

A few years after the deliverance of the city from these extremities the Carthaginians overran the island. This new and imminent danger was the occasion of the rise of Dionysius I., who presided over the fortunes of the city with great ability from 406 to 367. Himilco, who besieged the city from the Plemmyrium and the Olympieum, was fortunately driven away by a pestilence in 396. Dionysius then chastised the allies of the Carthaginians, and fortified, extended, and greatly embellished the city. His sway embraced the greater part of Sicily and Magna Grsecia, and his influence in the affairs of Greece itself was so great that he was regarded as the most powerful prince of his time next to the king of Persia.

His son Dionysius II. possessed the vices without the virtues of his father. In 356 he was banished by his uncle Dion, and again, on his return to the city after the assassination of Dion, by Timoleon in 343. The latter re-established the republic, and introduced new colonists from Greece. After his death in 336, however, the independence of the Syracusans again began to decline.

In 317 the tyrant Agathocles from Thermae (Termini) usurped the supreme power, and retained it until his death (by poison) in 289. He was a talented monarch, but a characteristic example of the moral depravity of the Greeks of his time — cruel, faithless, and full of fantastic schemes. Whilst he was engaged in besieging Carthage, Hamilcar attacked Syracuse (310), but unsuccessfully. The sway of Agathocles extended to Lower Italy also. On his death the republican form of government was re-established, but in 288 Hicetas usurped the tyranny, and was assassinated in 279. His murderers invited Pyrrhus of Epirus, son-in-law of Agathocles, from Italy, who arrived in 278 and conquered nearly the whole island. He gave dissatis- faction, however, to the Syracusans, and returned to Italy in 276.

On the departure of Pyrrhus the general Eiero II. became king, and under him Syracuse enjoyed its last period of prosperity (275-216). Theo- critus, the father of bucolic poetry, and Archimedes , the mathematician, were among the eminent men who lived at his court. He was unable, however, to wrest Messana from the Mamertines, who threw themselves upon the protection of Rome. In the First Punic War, which then ensued, Hiero at first took the part of the Carthaginians, but afterwards entered into a treaty with the Romans, whose faithful ally he remained for the rest of his life. Under the auspices of Hiero was constructed a magnificent and famous vessel which has been described by Athenseus.

Bieronymus, Hiero's successor, allied himself with the Carthaginians, and after his assassination the city was held by Carthaginian agents. It was therefore besieged by Marcellus in 214-212 , and was defended against his attacks on the N. and from the sea by the celebrated Archimedes. During the celebration of a festival, some of the bravest Romans scaled the walls of Tyche (by the Trogilus harbour) and, proceeding along the summit, captured Hexapylon, which had been erected by Dionysius. Tyche, Neapolis, and the Epipolae thus fell into the hands of Marcellus, but the island and the Achradina were not yet overcome. Whilst he was attack-

Baedeker. Italy III. 11th Edition. 23

354 Route 39. SYRACUSE. Cathedral.

ing the Achradina in its entire length on the W. the besieged quitted the island in order to aid in repelling the attack. This contingency was anti- cipated by a traitor, who introduced the crew of a Roman vessel into the town by means of the Arethusa, and conducted them to Achradina. The city was plundered, and Archimedes slain by a soldier who did not know him. In order to paralyse the city's power of resistance, Marcellus caused the island, which since the erection of Achradina had been connected with the mainland, to be again separated, and united with it by a bridge only, at the same time forbidding the Syracusans to inhabit it.

After the enormous booty, comprising valuable works of art, had been conveyed to Rome, Syracuse sank to the condition of a Roman provincial town. Cicero, indeed, describes it as the 'largest of Greek, and the most beautiful of all cities', but this was little more than an echo of the testimony of earlier writers in happier days. It was so reduced by the civil war between Pompey and Octavian that the latter, on his accession to the throne, found it necessary to re-people it with a new colony. The Apostle Paul spent three days at Syracuse on his journey to Rome, and, although he did not found a Christian community there, it is certain that Christianity was estab- lished in the city at a very early period. According to tradition, St. Peter is said to have sent St. Marcian hither from Antioch in the year 44, for the purpose of preaching Christianity.

Belisarius took Syracuse in 535 and made it the capital of the island, and under Constantius, in 663-668, it was even the seat of government of the Byzantine empire. It was conquered in 878 by the Saracens and in 1085 ■by the Normans , but remained at this period of no importance. — Here in 1676, after the battle of Agosta, the celebrated naval hero De Ruyter died (p. 360).

In 1837 the Neapolitan government transferred the prefecture from Syracuse to Noto. In 1865, however, the city was again raised to the Tank of the capital of a province, and it now begins to recover a little of its ancient importance.

A few only of the attractions of Syracuse lie within the modern town, most of them being situated on the rocky plateau to the N.W., the site of the ancient city.

I. Modern Syracuse.

CathedralfsPemple of Minerva), Museum, Arethusa, Temple of Diana.

The present town , as already stated , occupies the island of Ortygia, which formed but a small part of the site of the ancient city. The town, which is now lighted by electricity, is closely and irregularly built. It is traversed lengthwise by two somewhat wind- ing main streets, intersected by a third, the Corso Vittorio Eman- uele, formerly called the Via Maestranza. The cathedral-square ad- joins the Via Cavour, the westernmost of the two long streets.

The Cathedral (PI. 5 ; B,3) stands on the site of a Doric temple, the columns of which with their capitals and the entablature with its triglyphs are still seen projecting from the N. side of the church. The temple was a peripteral hexastyle on a basement of three steps, about 61 yds. in length, and 24 yds. in width. Of the thirty-six columns eleven are still visible on the N. and eight on the S. side. They are 28 ft. in height and 6V2 ft- in thickness. It is not known to what deity the temple was dedicated, but from its proximity to the Arethusa, it was perhaps a temple of Diana. Local tradition calls it a Temple of Minerva ; but the temple of that goddess,

Museum. SYRACUSE. 39. Route. 355

described by Cicero in his speeches- against Verres as a sumptuous edifice containing the most costly treasures, is supposed by several authorities to have stood at the S.E. extremity of the island. The interior of the cathedral is of no great interest. The pilasters sep- arating the nave from the aisles occupy the place of the ancient walls of the cella. The font, formerly in S. Giovanni (p. 362), con- sists of an antique marble basin with traces of a Greek inscription, supported by bronze lions.

The *Museum (beside PI. 14; B, 3), situated nearly opposite the chief entrance of the cathedral, is open daily 12-3, Sun. 12-2. The collection, 'which is admirably arranged, has recently been con- siderably extended. The director is Commend. Fr. 8. Cavallari.

Ground Floor. To the right : Christian inscriptions ; Sarcophagus of Valerius found in the catacombs of S. Giovanni and dating from the 5th cent. A. D. In the centre, Byzantine capital. — In the adjoining room, mediaeval objects and Renaissance works; by the left wall, Statue of the Madonna (about 1500). Opposite the. entrance is a Renaissance sarcophagus, with the recumbent statue of the deceased, from S. Domenico (1496). — To the left: Room I. Inscriptions, etc. Room II. Caskets for ashes. Room III. Architectural fragments-, including a lion's head as gargoyle and a fine Corinthian capital, with traces of painting. Room IV. Roman por- trait-statues; fine view from the balcony. The small. room to the left of Room IV. contains a "Statue of Venus Anadyotnene, with a dolphin by her side, found by March. Landolina in the Bonavia garden in 1804, pre- served almost entire except the head. — On the right side of the central hall, Greek sculptures : opposite the entrance, very antique and much da- maged Relief from Megara Hyblsea, representing a kneeling warrior; 'Statuette of a Woman ; "Head of Zeus ; Greek tomb-relief of a boy and a man (lower half); opposite the window, altar from the proscenium of the Greek theatre ; masks, etc. We now return through the court and ascend to the —

Fikst Floor. The vestibule contains clay vessels of the pre-Grecian period, found in Sikelian tombs. — Straight on is a room with some very ancient terracottas. In Case 1. Articles found at Megara Hyblsea; in Case 2, beautiful "Female Heads from Syracuse and Acrse, resembling Tanagra figures ; by the window, to the right, bronze utensils and weapons ; straight on, to the left, glass and heads of Medusa in terracotta; to the right, bronze objects. — To the right of this room is the director's residence. — To the left, valuable collection of Greek vases (especially Corinthian vases from Acrse, Ortygia, Lentini, Camerina, Fusco, and Megara Hyblffia) and lamps. — An adjoining room (usually locked ; key kept by the director) contains a valuable collection of 'Greek Coins, chiefly from Syracuse ; and a few paintings, including a Madonna by Antonello Panormita (1497).

To the N. of the cathedral is the Library (PL 8) -with 9000 vols, and a few MSS., open 1042.

From the S. angle of the Piazza del Duomo the Via Maniaoi leads in 3 min. to the celebrated Fountain of Arethusa (PL B, 4, 5), which has recently been enclosed in a semicircular basin, adorned with papyrus plants. The Tiymph Arethusa, pursued hither from Elis by the river -god Alpheus, is said to have been metamorphosed by Diana into this fountain. The water is now salt, the result of an earthquake. The railing is opened, if desired, by the custodian (20-30 c). — The Passeggiata Aretusa (PI. A, 3, 4) affords a pleasant walk and a view of the harbour and Mt. jEtna.

23*

356 Route 39. SYRACUSE. Achradina.

The ruins of a so-called Temple of Diana (PI. 15 ; B, 1) in the Vico di S. Paolo are more probably those of a temple of Apollo. This very remarkable Greek temple, the front part of which recent ex- cavations have brought to light, was a peripteral hexastyle of un- usual length, and must have been flanked by at least nineteen col- umns on each side. A very early inscription on the highest step of the basement, unfortunately much mutilated, is supposed to refer to the foundation of the edifice and its dedication to Apollo, whose name it contains.

The other antiquities in the town (remains of baths, etc.) are of inferior interest. Among the numerous remains of mediaeval architecture, the *Palazzo Montalto (PI. 10 ; B, 2) deserves mention. — Above the Porta Marina are ornaments in the Saracenic style.

II. Ancient Syracuse.

If time permit, the traveller should arrange his visit as follows. Drive in the morning to Fort Euryelus (p. 360; one-horse carr. about fyfe fr. bargain advisable) or to Belvedere (p. 360; 3 fr.), where the carriage is dismissed. Visit the Telegrafo and descend in l/i hr. to Fort Euryelus again. Thence by a path following the ancient aqueduct (the custodian will show the beginning of the path), past the Latomia dei Filosoli, to (IV2 hr.) the Neapolis, the inspection of which should begin at the Am- phitheatre (p. 358).

Syracuse was the largest of the Hellenic cities. Strabo states that its circumference was 180 stadia (20 M.). It consisted of five distinct portions : —

1. The island Oktygia (p. 354), the oldest part of the city.

2. The town on the precipitous coast to the N. of the island, called the Achradina , one-half being situated on the plateau of limestone-rock, the other half between the latter and the great har- bour, excluding a small portion on the N. bank of the small har- bour which Dionysius had enclosed with a lofty wall and added to the island. To the latter belonged the Small Harbour (sometimes erroneously called the Marble Harbour), which lay between the wall and the island. — The W. wall of the Achradina (comp. the Plan) may still be traced by the remnants which extend towards the S. from the tonnara of S. Panagia. Near the point where the roads from Noto and Floridia converge, the wall of the Achradina probably abutted on the Great Harbour, which was also flanked with quays. Towards the sea this secure part of the town, which could never be reduced by violence, was defended by a lofty wall. Here were the Market ('Agora') with Colonnades, the Bouleuterion, where the national assemblies were held, the Pentapylon and the Prytaneum. The latter lay opposite to the island , to the right of the present road to Catania (see p. 358), where the Timoleonteum, a gymnasium with colonnades, containing the tomb of Timoleon, also rose.

It is not easy to determine with equal certainty the limits of the

Epipolae. SYRACUSE. 39. Route. 357

parts of the city which lay to the W. of the Achradina, on the plateau, which contracts as it ascends towards the Epipolae or fortress.

3. Tychb , on the N. side , derived its name from a temple of Fortune.

4. Nbapolis, situated to the S. , on the terrace above the great harbour , and which during the Roman period descended to the plain as far as the left side of the road to Floridia , was named Te- merities at the time of the Athenian siege. Here are situated the Greek Theatre , the so-called Ara , the Roman Amphitheatre , the Palaestra in the garden of Bufardeci , the Latomie del Paradiso and of S. Venera, and the Street of Tombs.

5. The Epifol-e , the highest point of the city, formed the W. angle of the trilateral plateau, and was so named by the Syracusans, as we are informed by Thucydides , from being on the top of or above (Greek lmnok?}<z) the rest of the city. At the time of the Athenian siege this point was as yet unconnected with the city, although not left unguarded. The Athenians took it by surprise, con- structed Labdalon, an intrenchment on the N. side, and intended to erect a wall extending from the harbour Trogilus in a curve round Achradina, Tyche, and the Temenites to the great harbour. Gylip- pus, however, by the construction of a cross-wall, rendered the un- dertaking useless, just as it was approaching completion.

The merit of surrounding these four districts by a City-wall, constructed of huge blocks of stone, is due to Dionysius I. The N. portion was probably erected about 402. Within twenty days, it is said, 60,000 workmen with 6000 yoke of oxen constructed 30 sta- dia (3y2 M.) of the wall, but the work was not completed till the year 385.

The whole of the enclosed space could not have been covered with houses, but every trace of buildings having completely disappeared , the only clue to the extent to which the ground was so occupied consists of the number of wells which still exist. Two vast Aqueducts supplied the city, one of which was fed, high among the mountains, by the Buttigliara, an affluent of the Anapus , whence it conveyed the water by subterranean channels, several miles long, up to the level of the Epipolse. It is there seen flowing near the summit uncovered, after which it is precipitated from the height near the theatre, and finally empties itself into the har- bour. The other aqueduct descends from Monte Crimiti, the Thymbris of Theocritus, and also ascends to the level of the Epipolse , after which it skirts the N. city-wall, sending several branches southwards to the Achra- dina. It then turns to the S. and proceeds along the coast. The course of this channel is traced by means of the numerous rectangular apertures hewn in the rocky plateau, in which, far below, flowing water is detected. As these openings (spiragli) do not occur for a long way between the Epipolse and the other parts of the town, we may assume that this space was uninhabited. The Athenians, as is well known, cut off the supply of one aqueduct.

Crossing the fortifications of the inner, and then (7 min.) those of the outer town-gate, we come in 5 min. more to a circular space from which three roads diverge. That to the left leads to Noto (p. 306) ; that in a straight direction is the Floridia and Palazzolo

358 Route 39. SYRACUSE. Amphitheatre.

road (p. 306), which leads to the railway-station and Fort Euryelus (comp. p. 360). The road to the right forks after a few hundred paces, the right and narrower branch leading to the Cappuccini (p. 362), and the left branch to Catania (p. 336). The latter divides the ancient city into two nearly equal parts : on the E. (right) lies the Achradina, on the W. (left) Neapolis and Epipolae, to the N. Tyche. Our description begins with the more important and inter- esting W. half.

In the Bufardeci Garden , near the railway-station , the remains of a Roman palsestra, marked 'Ginnasio Romano^ on the Plan, were excavated in 1864. Among the interesting ruins are fragments of a handsome en- tablature. Beyond this is visible the wall of the Roman Neapolis, on the other side of which an ancient street has been discovered.

a. Western Portion.

Amphitheatre. Hecatomb Altar. "Latomie del Faradiso and di Sta. Venera. ''Theatre. Street of Tombs. "Euryelus.

In a meadow , a few hundred paces to the right of the above- named circular space outside the fortifications, we observe a column, which is probably a fragment of the magnificent ancient forum (Agora). Not far from this column passes the road to Catania, from which the road to the Cappuccini immediately diverges to the right (see p. 361).

The Catania road then crosses the Tailway and ascends gradually. After V2 M., at the point where we observe the rose-window of the church of S. Giovanni (p. 362) on the right, our road is crossed by •another. Following the latter to the left we reach (5 min.) a small osteria and the house of the Custode delle Antichita. Adjacent is a Roman reservoir. The services of the custodian are necessary for the Latomia del Paradiso only, but he also accompanies visitors to the Amphitheatre and the Greek Theatre (fee 1/2-l fr.).

Opposite the custodian's house a path to the left leads in a few minutes to the Amphitheatre , a Roman structure of the period of Augustus, 77 yds. in length and 44 yds. in width, and apparently destitute of subterranean chambers. Numerous blocks of marble from the ancient parapet lie scattered in the arena , some of them bearing inscriptions with the names of the proprietors of the seats which they adjoined.

About 150 paces farther, to the left of the path, is the (closed) entrance to the great Altar of Hiero II. It is related of that mon- arch that he erected an altar, a stadium (202 yds.) in length ; and this structure is probably the same, being 215 yds. in length and 25 yds. in width. Here probably were sacrificed the hecatombs of 450 oxen, which were annually offered to commemorate the expul- sion of the tyrant Thrasybulus.

Opposite is the entrance (closed) to the *Latomia del Paradiso, an ancient quarry hewn in the rock to a depth of 35-45 yds., and now

Greek Theatre. SYRACUSE. 39. Route. 359

overgrown with the most luxuriant vegetation. These latomfe, which form one of the characteristics of Syracuse , yielded the ma- terial of which the city was built. Some of them are of later origin than the aqueducts. They were also used as burial-places, and they sometimes formed prisons for captive enemies who were compelled to work in them. On some of the isolated masses of rock traces of the guard-houses of the sentries are said to be still distinguishable (?). Adjoining the Latomi'a del Paradiso (entrance to the left of the gate) is the *Ear of Dionysius, so named since the 16th cent., a grotto hewn in the rock in the form of the letter S , 210 ft. deep, 74 ft. in height, and 15-35 ft. in width, contracting towards the summit, and possessing a very remarkable acoustic peculiarity. The slightest sound in the grotto is heard by persons at the upper end, and produces a strong reverberation at the entrance. It is related of Dionysius that he constructed prisons with such acoustic properties that at a certain point he could detect every word spoken in them , even when whispered only , and this grotto has been arbitrarily assumed to be one of these. The custodian will if desired awaken the echoes by firing a pistol (5 soldi). The shape of the grotto is evidently due to the rounding of the adjoining theatre. — The neighbouring Latomia di Sta. Venera has the most luxuriant vegetation.

The road then passes under the modern arches of the aqueduct, and leads to the right, past an osteria, to the *(xreek Theatre. This was the largest Greek structure of the kind, after those of Miletus and Megalopolis, and was erected in the 5th cent. B.C. It is hewn in the rock in a nearly semicircular form, 165 yds. in diameter. Distinct traces of forty-six tiers of seats are still visible, and it is estimated that fifteen more must have extended as far as the summit of the excavation. The nine cunei were intersected by a broad and a narrow praecinctio, on the former of which are seen various Greek inscriptions , recording the names of King Hiero, the Queens Philistis and Nereis, and Zeus Olympius, after whom the different compartments were respectively named. Philistis is supposed to have been the wife of Hiero II., and Nereis to have been his daughter-in-law. The eleven lower rows only were covered with marble. The hill on which the theatre stands commands a superb **View, particularly towards sunset, of the town, the harbour, the promontory of Plemmyrium, and the expanse of the Ionian sea.

Above the theatre is the Nymphaeum, a grotto, into which two water-conduits issue. Epitaphs were formerly inserted in the sur- rounding walls. To the N. is the entrance to the last sinuosity of the Ear of Dionysius (see above).

From the upper part of the theatre the rock-hewn Street of the Tombs (Via delle Tombe) ascends to the left. In the sides are numerous cavities and tomb-chambers , all of which have been despoiled of their contents and decorations. This route brings us

360 Route 39. SYRACUSE. Euryelus.

in 5 min. to the summit of the desolate plateau, which the ped- estrian may traverse to (li^-^hrs.) FortEuryelus (in the hot season this route is comfortable only early in the morning). We follow the broad road to the right, which follows the course of the ancient con- duit, and soon contracts. To the left we enjoy a view over the plain in which lay the Roman Neapolis , with the sumptuous temples of Demeter and Persephone erected by Gelon in 480 with the proceeds of spoil taken from the Carthaginians. On the height which we now traverse were situated the ancient Neapolis and Temenites ; and within the latter stood the Temenos of Apollo, with the statue of the god, which Verres attempted to carry off, and which was afterwards removed to Rome by Tiberius. On the right, farther on , we pass the Buffalaro hill , from the quarries of which Diony- sius procured stone for the city-wall. It was here that the tyrant is said to have confined the poet and philosopher Philoxenus for having disparaged his verses (thence named Latomia del Filosofo).

The Carriage Road to Fort Euryelus (carr. see p. 356J may be recommended even to walkers in preference to the route just described. It coincides at first with the road to Floridia. Those who have visited the Greek Theatre by carriage must, accordingly, return to the circular space mentioned at p. 357. — Beyond thatpoint (to theW.) the railway from Syracuse toModica crosses the road, and farther on the road to Canicattini diverges to the left. To the right is the new cemetery, in which a wall, 19 ft. thick, has been exhumed, believed by Cavallari to be a portion of the peribolos of the temple of Demeter. About l3/4 M. beyond the circular space above-men- tioned the road to the Euryelus quits that to Floridia. It then de- scribes a circuit by the mill of Sinecchia, and approaches the fort from the W. in a wide bend (short-cuts for pedestrians).

*Fort Euryelus (now called Mongibellesi) stands at the W. extremity of the ancient city, at the point where the N. and S. walls erected by Dionysius on the table-land converged. It ter- minates towards the W. in four massive towers , flanked with two deep fosses hewn in the rock. (The custodian, who keeps the key of the gate , is generally on the spot. Gentlemen , however, may explore the different passages without assistance.) From the first of these fosses diverge a number of subterranean outlets, connected with each other, and forming passages accessible to in- fantry, and even cavalry, communicating with the great court be- hind the towers. Another subterranean passage , lately cleared of rubbish, leads to a fort situated on the line of the city-wall farther N. In the rocks opposite these apertures are hollows which were probably used as magazines. Those to the right contain inscrip- tions of letters or numbers which have not yet been deciphered.

About 1 1/2 M. farther is the miserable village of Belvedere (poor osteria), which lies on the narrow "W- ridge extending from the hill of the Epipolae towards the mountains, and beyond the precincts of

S. Lucia. SYRACUSE. 39. Route. 361

the ancient fortifications. Beyond the -village rises the *Telegrafo (615 ft. above the sea), a hill crowned with a conspicuous telegraph building (ascent to the roof permitted ; no fee), and commanding an excellent survey of the site of ancient Syracuse. The view to the N. however, is still finer: to the left rises theMte. Crimiti, the ancient Thymbris , on which one of the old aqueducts takes its rise ; then jEtna in the distance; in the background the mountains of the E. coast of Sicily, and more to the right the mountains of Calabria.

The N. side of the Epipolse is bounded by the remains of the Wall of Dionysius , which active walkers and climbers may follow. Numerous fine views are obtained of both land and sea. At several points we encounter solitary olive-trees , in the shade of which a pleasant rest may be enjoyed on one of the massive blocks of the old wall. Halfway between the Euryelus and the point where the road to Catania intersects the city-wall probably stood the Athenian Fort ofLabdalonQp. 357). In the valley below, probably on the sea, lay Leon, whence the Athenians stormed the Epipolae. — Those who drive to the Euryelus and then visit the wall of Dionysius should order the carriage to meet them at the Scala Greca (p. 363).

b. Eastern Portion.

S. Lucia. 'Latomia de' Cappuccini. Villa Landolina. Latomia Casale. *S. Giovanni and the Catacombs.

This part of the ancient city consists chiefly of the Achradina, remains of the fortifications of which may be distinctly traced on all sides. It is separated from the island of Ortygia by the Small Harbour, which Dionysius formed by throwing an embankment across the open sea, and the narrow entrance of which was capable of being closed.

We may either follow the road diverging to the right from the Catania road near the solitary column already mentioned (comp. p. 358), or we may effect a considerable saving by crossing the small harbour directly from the town-gate (25 c). Those who follow the road will pass the so-called House of Agathocles , a Roman building in a garden to the left, and (!/4 hr. from the gate) the landing-place of the boats , where remains of ancient boat-houses are still to be seen in the water.

At this point the road divides. The right branch skirts the coast, crosses the railway-cutting by a bridge, and leads direct to the Capuchin monastery (25 min.; see p. 362).

The left branch crosses the railway immediately, turns to the right, and leads towards the conspicuous campanile of Sta. Lucia, a church erected in the 11th cent, on the spot where the tutelary saint of the town is said to have suffered martyrdom, but frequently restored. The W. Portal is the only part of the original church still existing. Over the high-altar, the Entombment of the saint (quite ruined), ascribed to Caravaggio. A passage from the S. transept leads past an entrance to the catacombs to a Round Church, partly subterranean, containing a statue of S. Lucia, of

362 Route 39. SYRACUSE. 8. Giovanni.

the school of Bernini. — To the left of the church a road leads to (8min.) S. Giovanni (see below).

Passing to the right of S. Lucia, and turning to the right again after 10 min., above the cypress-planted modern cemetery (Hypo- geum; in and near which extensive foundations, perhaps of the Temple of Ceres, have been recently discovered), we reach (5 min.) a suppressed Capuchin Monastery, now a farm. The neighbouring *Latomia de' Cappuccini is one of the wildest and grandest of these ancient quarries , and it was here probably that the 7000 captive Athenians languished. A monument to Mazzini was erected here in 1880. To obtain admission (20-30 c), we ring the bell at the house to the left of the monastery.

We retrace our steps, but after 5 min., above the cemetery, we go straight on by a low wall, and in 5 min. more reach a road as- cending to the upper Achradina. Following this road to the left be- tween garden-walls for 5 min., we reach the Villa Landolina (last door on the right), the property of Principe Terlani, situated in a small latomia, and containing the tomb of the German poet A. v. Pla- ten (d. 1835). — A few paces farther we reach a road coming from S. Lucia; we follow it to the right, and turning to the right again after 3 min. we observe the facade of S. Giovanni before us. — Those who do not visit the Villa Landolina cross the road mentioned above, which ascends to the Achradina, and go straight on. On the right, after 5 min., is the Latomia Casale, in which the Marchese Casale has laid out a flower-garden (now neglected). — From this point we observe the Catania road, and to the left the church of S.Giovanni.

S. Giovanni was founded in 1182, but afterwards frequently restored, so that parts of the W. facade, remarkable for its rose- window, and the portal are all that remain of the original building. A flight of steps descends from the church to the Crypt of St. Mar- tian, which dates from the 4th century. This lower church, built in the form of a Greek cross , is one of the most ancient in Sicily, and stood in connection with the Catacombs. On each side is an apse, except on the W., where it is approached by steps. It con- tains the tomb of St. Marcian, who is said to have suffered martyr- dom, bound to one of the granite columns now placed here. On the walls are the remains of old frescoes.

Near S. Giovanni is the entrance to the Catacombs (enquire for the custodian at S. Giovanni ; fee 1 fr.). — The ''Catacombs of Syracuse are among the most imposing burial-places of the kind known. The part usually visited extends under the anterior terrace of the Achradina in one story, which has been partially excavated for a distance of about 100 yds. It dates from the 4th cent. A.D., and not from an ante- Christian period as sometimes supposed. The large circular chambers, among which the 'Eotonda d'Antiochia' is the most notable , are a peculiarity of these catacombs. Of the mural decorations few traces are now left. The early-Christian

Catacombs. SYRACUSE. 39. Route. 363

sarcophagus in the Museum (p. 355) was found here in 1872. — The upper story of the catacombs in the adjacent Vigna Cassia was also constructed in the 4th cent., but the lower story, to which access is difficult, is earlier and seems to be very extensive. Other early-Christian tombs have been found between S. Lucia and the Latomia de' Cappuccini.

The Catania road passes a few hundred paces to the W. of S. Giovanni; and we reach it at the point where the above-mentioned path to the Amphitheatre and the Greek Theatre diverges. — About 5 min. to the N. of that point , to the left of the road , are the so - called Tombs of Timoleon and Archimedes , with late - Doric facades, and arbitrarily named. The tomb of Archimedes , which was re-discovered by Cicero, was probably outside the town.

If time permits , the traveller should not omit to follow the Catania road to the N. as far as the point where it intersects the ancient fortifications of the Tyche quarter and descends to the coast (Scala Oreca), 4 M. from the town-gate. The *View thence of the sea and Mtna, is one of the finest near Syracuse. — We may then follow the hills to the right as far as the Tonnara of S. Panagia, and skirt the upper margin of the picturesque gorge, overgrown with oleanders. From the S.E. end of the gorge a fine view is obtained of Mt. iEtna. We then return along theE. boundary of the Achradina, the fortifications of which are still partly traceable. This walk (to the Latomia de' Cappuccini) takes i1/^-2 hrs.

A charming Walk is afforded by a circuit of the various Latomie, looking down upon them from above. We begin with the Latomia de' Cap- puccini, and proceed thence to the Latomie Casale, S. Venera (Targia), Greco, and Paradiso. An interesting view of the Lat. Targia is obtained from a modern aqueduct, on which we may walk. For this excursion a good guide (such as Salv. Politi) is requisite; the detour by S. Giovanni may be avoided by traversing the Abela property.

When the sea is calm, a pleasant "Excursion by Boat (l:/2-2 fr.) may be taken to the caverns in the coast of the Achradina , situated beyond the rocky islets of the Due Fratelli, between the small harbour and the Capo Panagia (the Grotta di Nettuno and others).

III. The Anapo, Olympibtjm, and Cyane.

This excursion takes 3-4 hrs., and is usually made in a boat with three rowers (to the Cyane Fountain 6-8 fr. and fee). If tho sea is rough, travellers may prefer to drive to the mouth of the Anapo. The trip up the river is pleasant, but very troublesome for the boatmen owing to its narrowness and the thickness of the water-plants. About halfway the railway crosses the river. Walkers may ascend by a small embankment on the right bank of the Anapo, and then, beyond the railway, on the right bank of the Cyane as far as the papyrus-plants, but the spring itself, on account of its marshy environs can only be reached by boat. '— The two columns of the Olympieum (of no great interest) may be visit- ed either in going or returning. The hill can only be approached on the E. , JT., or N.W. side, as the ground on the other sides is very marshy.

The road to Noto, which leads to the S.W. of the circular space mentioned at p. 357, runs at first within a short distance of the shore of the Great Harbour , traversing the swamps of Syraco and

364 Route 39. SYRACUSE. Olympieum.

Lysimelia. Beyond the 2nd kilometre-stone (H/4 M.) it crosses the Anapo (Anapus), which rises on the hills to the "W. and falls into the harbour of Syracuse after a winding course of about 16 M.

On a height (60 ft. above the sea), a little to the S.W. of this point, not far from the confluence of the two streams , stands a conspicuous and solitary pair of columns. A rough road leads towards them from the Anapo bridge in 10 min., but before it enters a hollow we take a footpath to the right. These very mutilated columns, to which the path does not lead the whole way, stand in the middle of the fields , and now form the sole remains of the famous 01ympieumP or temple of the Olympian Zeus, dating from the earliest Syracusan period (pe- ripteral hexastyle). Gelon provided the statue of Zeus, the beauty of which is extolled by Cicero, with a golden robe from the spoil of Himera, which Dionysius I. removed as being 'too cold in winter, and too heavy for summer'. — As this was a point of strategic im- portance, it was usually made the basis of operations when the city was besieged. In 493 Hippocrates of Gela established his head- quarters here. At the beginning of the Athenian siege (415) the Olympieum was taken by Nicias by a coup-de-main , but fearing the wrath of the gods he did not venture to take possession of the treasures it contained. At a later period the Syracusans fortified it and surrounded it with a small fortified town (Po- lichne) ; but this did not prevent Himilco in 396 and Hamilcar in 310 from pitching their camps here; and in 213 Marcellus suc- ceeded in gaining possession of the spot. The surrounding marshes, however, were fraught with peril to the besiegers. Fine *View of Syracuse. Near the Olympieum were situated the handsome tombs of Gelon and his self-sacrificing wife Damarata.

The hill on which the Olympieum stands is washed on the W. by the Cyane Brook, the upper part of which is remarkable for the great luxuriance of the surrounding vegetation. On both banks, par- ticularly in autumn, rise lofty papyrus-plants, some of them 20 ft. in height, planted here by the Arabs, and imparting a strange and almost tropical character to the scene. The stream has its source in the Fountain of Cyane, the 'azure spring', into which the nymph of that name was metamorphosed for opposing Pluto when he was carrying Proserpine to the infernal regions. The Syracusans used to celebrate an annual festival here in honour of Proserpine. The clear spring, which abounds with fish, and is bordered with papyrus, is now called La Pisma.

From Syracuse to Noto, see p. 306; to Floridia and Palazzolo, p. 307.

365

40. Sardinia.

Steamboats (Societa Florio-Rubattino). 1. From Leghorn, a. Every Frid. at midnight to Cagliari in 32 hrs. ; returning from Cagliari on Thurs. at 9 p.m. b. Every Tues. at 3 p.m., via Maddalena, Capo Figari, and the other ports on the E. coast, to Cagliari in 40 hrs.; returning from Cagliari on Mon. at 8 a.m. c. Every Thurs. at 10 a.m. via Bastia (Corsica), Porto Torres, Alghero, and the other ports on the W. coast, to Cagliari, arriving on Mon. afternoon; returning from Cagliari on Thurs. at 7 a.m., arriving in Leghorn on Sun. at 4 p.m. d. Every Sun. at noon, via Capraja, Madda- lena, and Santa Teresa, to Porto Torres, in 16 hrs. ; returning on Wed. at 9 a.m. — 2. From Civita Vecchia daily at 4 p.m. to Capo Figari in 11 hrs. — 3. From Naples to Cagliari every Sat. at 11 a.m. in 27 hrs. ; return- ing on Thurs. at noon. — 4. From Palermo to Cagliari weekly (Sat. at 2 p.m.) in 22 hrs.; returning on Thurs. at 2 p.m. — 5. From Tcnis to Cagliari every Wed. at 1 a.m. in 17 hrs. ; returning on Sun. at 7 p.m. — A steamer also plies along the E. coast between Cagliari and Capo Figari every Sun. and Sat., in 24 hrs.

Geography and Climate. Sardinia (Ital. Sardegna, Greek Sardo), situated between 38° 52' and 41° 16' N. latitude, and separated from Corsica by the Strait of Bonifacio, is, next to Sicily, the largest island iu the Mediterranean. Its length from N. to S. is 174 M., its breadth from E. to W. 70 M., area 9463 sq. M., population (in 1890) 726,500 souls. About nine-tenths of the island are mountainous ; the only extensive plain is that which lies between the bays of Cagliari and Oristano. The mountains, corresponding in direction with those of Corsica, stretch from N. to S. ; their chief formation, especially in the N. portion, is granite, next to which are tertiary rocks, here and there broken by extinct vol- canoes. The central part of the island is much less elevated than Corsica, but of considerably greater breadth. Bruncu Spina, the highest peak of the Gennargenlu, is 6290 ft. in height. There are no rivers of importance in the island ; the largest is the Tirso, which falls into the Bay of Oristano ; the Bosa or Temo descends to the W. coast, the Coghinas to the N., and the Flumendoia to the E. — Sardinia is surrounded by a number of smaller islands, such as Asinara, La Maddalena, Caprera (residence of Garibaldi), and Tavolara on the N., and S. Antioco and S. Pietro on the S.W. The coast is somewhat monotonous and uninteresting ; the finest part is on the S. side, where the Bay of Cagliari is situated. Sardinia was once one of the granaries of Kome, but owing to the sparseness of the population has now lost all claim to such a distinction. A large proportion of the soil is uncultivated, whilst among the mountains about one-fifth of the area is clothed with forest. Cattle , oil (chiefly from Bosa), and wine are exported, several different varieties of the last being prodnced, including a white wine like sherry. The chief exports, however, are the products of the mines, the most important of which are MonteveccJiio (lead), Monte- poni (lead and zinc), and La Duchessa and Buggern (cadmia), the united yield of which amounts to about 80,000 tons yearly. Silver is produced in Montenarba (to the annual value of upwards of l1/* million francs), and anti- mony in Su Suergiu (about 350-400 tons yearly). Most of the mines are_ worked by foreign capitalists. The construction of railways and roads is being vigorously prosecuted, and has already caused a considerable increase of traffic. On the whole, however, the development of the island is still too recent to admit of comparison with the mainland. Then the malaria, or Intemperie as it is called here, renders the island, with the exception of the larger towns, uninhabitable for strangers from July to October. Fever, which prevails principally on the low ground, frequently extends its ravages to a considerable height, in consequence of which the mines are deserted during the period above mentioned. The natives, however, appear to be habituated to dangers which would often prove fatal to strangers. The principal precaution they use consists in wearing fleeces, a usual costume of the Sardinian shepherds, who, to the no small sur- prise of travellers, present the appearance of being closely enveloped in fur under the scorching rays of a July sun.

366 Route 40. SARDINIA. Antiquities.

Customs and Characteristics. The Sardinians, who are of the same race as the Corsicans, and probably belong to the Iberian family, more resemble the Spaniards than the Italians in character, and this peculiarity was doubtless confirmed by the long duration of the Spanish supremacy. Their demeanour is grave and dignified compared with that of the vivacious Italians, and exhibits a frequent tendency to melancholy. The national costume is gradually becoming less common. The Sardinians are still noted for their unwavering fidelity to their sovereign, their chivalric sense of honour, and their hospitality. The language consists of a number of dialects, differing widely in many of their roots ; several of them closely resemble Spanish, or rather Latin (e. g. bona dies, good day). Strangers will generally find it impossible to understand or make themselves under- stood by the country-people, though there are usually some who speak Italian in each village.

Antiquities. The antiquities of Sardinia are also in keeping with the other peculiarities of the country. Those which date from the periods of the Carthaginian and Roman supremacy or from the middle ages are far inferior to those of Italy and Sicily. Unusual interest, however, attaches to the curious relics of a far more remote and even pre-historic epoch. These are the so-called Nuraghi, conical monuments with truncated summits, 30- 60 ft. in height, 35-100 ft. in diameter at the base, constructed sometimes of hewn, and sometimes of unhewn blocks of stone without mortar. They are situated either on isolated eminences among the mountains,- or on ar- tificial mounds on the plains , and usually occur in groups varying in number from three or four to two hundred. They generally contain two (in some rare instances three) conically vaulted chambers, one above the other, and a spiral staircase constructed in the thick walls ascends to the upper stories. Of the various conjectures which have been formed as t6 the purpose served by these enigmatical structures, the most prevalent now is that they were erected by the aboriginal inhabitants of the island as places of refuge in case of hostile attacks. The Giants' Graves ( Tumbas de los Gigantes), oblong piles of stones 3-6 ft. in breadth and 15-36 ft. long, are believed to belong to the same remote period and to be really monumental tombs. The Perdas fittas, or Perdas lungas, monuments of stone corresponding to the Celtic menhirs and dolmens, are of much rarer occurrence in Sardinia.

Travelling. — The most suitable season for a visit to Sardinia is from the middle of April to the middle of June, after which dangerous fevers are very prevalent down to the beginning of November. About 500 M. of Railways were open for traffic in 1892 (comp. the Map), of which 225 M. were narrow-gauge. Diligences run on the principal high-roads daily. The vehicles are generally similar to those on the mainland, but are some- times very uncomfortable two-wheeled machines called Saltafoss. The most interesting points in the island, however, can only be reached on Horse- back. As moreover the language cannot be understood except through the medium of an interpreter, the services of a guide are indispensable; and the traveller is recommended to secure the services of a guide (viandante) well acquainted with the country, and two horses for the whole expedition. The charges depend entirely upon circumstances; e.g. the greater or less amount of field-labour at the time, and therefore vary very much. The Inns are very mediocre, and away from the railways are sometimes quite intolerable. Letters of introduction to some of the inhabitants of Sassari or Cagliari are therefore most desirable ; and, once provided with these, the stranger will have little difficulty in procuring others to enable him to make his way through the greater part of the island. Sardinian hos- pitality is remarkable for the cordiality and courtesy with which it is accorded. The etiquette of the household of his host may, however, fre- quently prove irksome to the weary traveller, who will sometimes be obliged to wait several hours before he can satisfy the cravings of his unwonted appetite. The upper classes generally dine between 1 and 2 o'clock, and sup between 9 and 11. Remuneration for hospitality is invariably declined, but a liberal fee should be given to the servants (2-5 fr. per day according to circumstances). — Public security, as recent occurrences testify, can- not be everywhere guaranteed.

History. SARDINIA. 40. Route. 367

History. Of the more civilised nations of antiquity the Phoenicians were the earliest settlers in Sardinia. The roads of Caralis (Cagliari) and Sulcis (S. Antioco) afforded shelter to the Phoenician ships when over- taken by storms on their way to Tarshish; and the Carthaginians ulti- mately subdued the greater part of the island. During their supremacy, and even during that Of their successors the Romans , the interior of the island preserved its independence to some extent. Traces of the Phoenician epoch are recognisable in a few Punic inscriptions still extant, and in the scarabsei, or stones cut in the form of beetles and worn in rings, presenting a thoroughly Oriental appearance. [The innumerable little distorted figures of bronze , formerly taken for Phoenician idols, are probably forgeries.] In B.C. 238, shortly after the First Punic War, Sardinia was wrested from the Carthaginians by the Romans, who found it an in- valuable acquisition on account of the productiveness of its fields and its mines. Criminals condemned for grave offences, and subsequently numerous Christians, were compelled to work in these mines. The Romans themselves shunned the island as being unhealthy and imperfectly cultivated, whilst they manifested little partiality for the proud and independent spirit of the natives, which neither war nor persecution could entirely extinguish. Great numbers of the inhabitants were brought to Rome and sold as slaves at a merely nominal price, for even during servitude they maintained their indomitable character and formed no very desirable acquisition to their purchasers (whence the Roman expression Sardi venales, 'as cheap as a Sardinian1).

In 458 the Vandals made an expedition against Sardinia from Africa and conquered the island. Under Justinian, in 533, it was recaptured for the Eastern Empire. The weakness of the latter, combined with the un- remitting attacks of the Saracens, favoured the gradual rise of native princes, who recognised the pope as their patron and protector. When at length the Arabs began to establish themselves permanently in the island, John XVIII. preached a crusade (1004) against the infidels , promising to bestow the island on those who should succeed in expelling them. This was effected by the united efforts of the Genoese and Pisans , and their rival claims were decided in favour of Pisa in 1025. The island was divided into four districts, Cagliari, Torres or Logudoro , Gallura, and Arborea, which were presided over by 'Giudicf or judges. Neither Genoa, however, renounced her claim, nor the papal see its supremacy ; and the Giudici, profiting by these disputes, succeeded meanwhile in establishing themselves as independent princes, and governed the island in accordance with its national laws and customs. In 1297 Boniface VIII. invested the kings of Aragon with Sardinia, and they, after protracted struggles, succeeded in putting down the pretensions of Genoa, as well as those of Pisa. The most distinguished of the native princes was the Giudichessa Eleonora of Arborea (d. 1404), whose contests with Aragon and whose code of laws, the 'Carta de Logu1 (del luogo), attained great local celebrity. This code was constituted the law of, the whole island by Alphonso of Aragon in 1421, and Eleonora's name is still the most popular among those of the earlier history of Sardinia. In 1455 a parliament (Cortes) was established, consisting of three estates (stamenti), the nobles, the clergy, and the towns, whose principal business was the voting of taxes. Under Ferdinand the Catholic in 1479 the native princes were deprived of their independence, and the island was now governed, to the universal satisfaction of the inhab- itants, by Spanish Viceroys. After the War of Succession Spain was com- pelled by the Peace of Utrecht, in 1714, to surrender the island to the House of Austria, who in 1720 ceded it to Victor Amadeus II., Duke of Savoy, in exchange for Sicily. Thenceforth Sardinia participated in the fortunes of this family, and afforded it refuge and protection during the supremacy of Napoleon. A determined attack on the island by the French, accompanied by Buonaparte himself, in 1793, proved a signal failure. In consequence of the Treaty of Paris in 1720 the Duke of Savoy assumed the title of King of Sardinia, which was exchanged in 1861 for that of King of Italy.

Literature. The principal work on Sardinia is by Count Alberto Fer-

368 Route 40. CAGLIARI. Sardinia.

rero della Marmora and is entitled ' Voyage en Sardaigne ou Description statistique , physique, et politique , de cette Isle'' (Paris et Turin , 1839-60 5 vols.). An admirable ' Carta dell' Isola e Regno di Sardegna\ in two sheets (pub. 1845, with additions down to 1860, price 4 fr.), has also been published by the same author. A good account of the geology of the island is given in a German work by O. vom Rath (lZwei Reisen in Sardinieti'). A history of Sardinia down to 1773 was published in 1825 by Baron Giuseppe Manno (Torino), and has gone through several editions. The same author also wrote a Storia Moderna (1773-99), which appeared in 1842 and again in 1858 (Le Monnier, at Florence), containing a short review of the earlier history. The effects of the French revolution on Sardinia and the attacks of the French upon the island are here fully and attractively described. Antiquarian research in Sardinia has been chiefly promoted by the patriotic Canonico Giovanni Spano, Rector of the university of Cagliari (Bullettino Archeologico Sardo, with several smaller annual publications). Comp. also La Sardegna Prima del Dominio Romano, by Ettore Pais (Rome, 1881 ; in the 'Atti dei Lincei') ; La Sardaigne a vol d'oiseau, by Baron Roissard de Bellet (Paris, 1884) ; and Sardinia and its Resources, by Robert Tennant (London, 1885).

Cagliari.

Hotel. Scala di Feeeo, Via di S. Eulalia, with trattoria, R. 2!/2-3 fr. ; the rooms in the house opposite, belonging to the same landlord, are un- comfortable. — Cafes. Scala di Feiro, in the hotel of the same name; Concordia, Strada di Roma.

Baths. Bagni Cerruti, Via S. Rosalia 22 ; Sea-baths at Citta di Cagliari.

Post Office, Via S. Rosalia, opposite the house of the Commandant. — Telegraph Office, Piazza S. Carlo.

British Consul. Mr. E. Pernis, Via Roma 3 (office-hours 8-4).. — U. S. Consular Agent, Sig. Alphonse Dol.

Steamboat Office of the Societa Floria- Rubaltino, Palazzo Devoto, Via Roma, opposite the harbour.

Diligences. Office, Contrada Yenne (to the left when reached from the large piazza). To S. Pietro Pula (p. 371) twice daily, in 3V2-4 hrs.

Wine of the country indifferent. Vernaccia, a finer quality, strong, but acid, 2-3 fr. per bottle ; Simbirizzi, good and cheap ; Malvasia and Muscato, sweet. — The Bread of Sardinia is excellent. Pardulas is a favourite kind of cake. Various other national cakes and kinds of pastry may be tried at Cagliari on festivals.

Cdgliari, the Caralis of the Romans, a very ancient town founded by the Phoenicians, the capital of the island, with 38,600 inhab., lies on an extensive bay, bounding the flat district at the >S. end of the island, and terminated on the W. by Capo Sparti- vento and on the E. by Capo Carbonara. To the E. of the town projects the Capo di 8. Elia, which forms one extremity of the Oolfo di Quartu. The town is surrounded by extensive lagoons, the Stagno di Cagliari on the W. and the Stagno di Molentargiu on the E. side. These yield abundance of salt, which forms the cargo of numerous vessels, particularly from Sweden and Finland, when returning home after having brought supplies of pine-wood to Spain and Italy. Cagliari is situated on the slope of a precipitous hill, 290 ft. in height, and consists of four distinct quarters : the old town or Castello (Sard. Casteddu); below it to the E. the Villa Nuova; and lastly Marina and Stampace.

The spacious Piazza del Mekcato, embellished with a bronze Statue of Charles Felix I., erected in 1860 to commemorate the

Sardinia. OAGLIARI. 40. Route. 369

construction of the road to Porto Torres, forms the central point of the modern quarters of the town. It is separated from the Piazza Ybnnb, in which rises an ancient column with inscriptions, hy the Via Carlo Felice, which is prolonged towards the lower town as the Corso Vittobio Emandble and towards the upper as the Via Manno. The Corso is the busiest street in Cagliari, with numerous shops, where among other things the gold ornaments commonly worn by the country-people should be observed. In the continua- tion of the Corso, called the Strada di Roma, a few ancient Roman houses have recently been excavated, one of which contains an in- teresting triclinium with coloured mosaics. The street leads to a small piazza (to the right the Cafe Concordia), and then descends to Villa Nuova. To the left it ascends in two zigzags to the —

Castle, which still has its ancient gates, and contains the chief buildings and the palaces of the nobility. Three terraces laid out on the old bastion of S. Caterina , on the right , connected by flights of steps and planted with shady pine-trees, command a fine *View, and form one of the most beautiful points in the town. Here is situated the Teatro Civico, which is well fitted up.

The street to the left leads to the University, founded in 1596 by Philip III. of Spain, and remodelled in 1764 by Charles Em- manuel of Savoy. The library contains 22,000 vols.; among the MSS. are the Pergamene di Arborea, which, except in Sardinia itself, are generally regarded as modern forgeries. Inside the uni- versity, opposite the entrance, is the colossal figure of a Roman provincial official of high rank , clad in a toga ; this statue was found at S. Antioco (p. 371).

The Museum contains geological and mineralogioal collections formed by La Marmora, whose bust is placed in the archaeological saloon, and the most complete collection of Sardinian antiquities (to which valuable contributions have been made by the Cavalierc Spano) , including epitaphs, milestones, vessels of earthenware and glass, coins, and figures in bronze.

Proceeding from the Museum through the Porta Aquila under the Palazzo Boyl, we enter the fortress.

From the entrance to the old town the narrow main street leads in a straight direction in a few minutes to a flight of steps ascending on the right to the Cathedral, completed in 1312 by the Pisans, but afterwards altered and modernised. Baroque facade of 1703.

At the principal entrance are two "Ambones with scenes from Scripture history. — In the N. transept is the tomb of Martin II. of Aragon (d. 1409). The chapels contain a few monuments in the rococo style. — In the Crypt is a monument to the queen of Louis XVIII., a princess of Sa- voy (d. 1810), and another to the only son of Victor Emmanuel I. (d. 1796).

We next pass the Torre delV Elefante, erected in 1307 by the Pisans, as the metrical inscription records, and reach the *Buon Cammino promenade, i/2 M- in length, which affords a line

Baedeker. Italy III. 11th Edition. 24

370 Route 40. CAGLIARI. Sardinia.

survey of the bay and the mountains rising above it. (A still finer point of view is the Birreria Boggetti , above the promenade, on the right.) Immediately beyond the (r.) Carlo Alberto bar- racks, erected in 1847, a broad road descends from the promenade to the left to the Capuchin Monastery, where there are several rock- hewn reservoirs once connected with a Roman aqueduct. Op- posite the monastery is the Amphitheatre, recently freed from rub- bish , the greater axis of which measures $&/% yds. , the lesser 79 yds., while the arena was about 55 by 34 yds. A natural de- pression in the rock which slopes hence towards the sea was turned to account in its construction , and most of the rows of seats are hewn in the rock, while the open S. extremity was closed by masonry. From the ruinous condition of the structure also it is obvious that economy was carefully observed in its erection ; and we thus obtain , on comparing this, the most considerable ruin in Sardinia, with the magnificent edifices of Italy and Southern France, an additional indication of the subordinate importance attached to the island at that period.

The Environs of Oagliari present all the characteristics of a southern land, the climate being hot, and rain very scarce ; but the town itself, even in summer, is generally free from fever. Here, as in Sicily and Africa , the fields are usually enclosed with hedges of cactus. The Campidano di Cagliari, an extensive plain stretching hence to Oristano, is fertile and tolerably well peopled.

On a rocky plateau , 1V4 M. to the N.W. of Cagliari , is situated an extensive Necropolis. The route to it first passes the Punic Tombs, con- sisting of subterranean chambers hewn in the limestone rock, with symbols in the Egyptian style over the entrances. (Caution must be used, as many of the entrances are overgrown with plants.) The majority of these are below the Casino Massa. Farther W. are the Roman Tombs. Many of these also border the road to the S., leading through the Borgo di S. Avendrace. The finest of them is the Grotia delle Vipere, with a hand- some facade, being the tomb of Atilia Pomptilla and her husband Cassius Philippus, who died here as exiles from Rome, as we are informed by the Latin and Greek inscriptions. Excellent view from the top of the plateau.

From Cagliari to Quartu , 4>/2 M. to the N.W. (omnibus twice daily each way in 1 hr. ; coupe" l'/2 fr.). The road starts from the Villa- nuova Quarter of the town. On the right we have a view of the Capo di S. Elia and a large swamp which is a favourite haunt of the flamingo in spring. Quartu , a town with 6000 inhab. , is worthy of a visit on a Sunday, when the rich costumes and curious gold ornaments of Asiatic type worn by the women are seen in perfection. The old-fashioned Sar- dinian round dance, accompanied by the rustic double flute, is also some- times performed in the piazza on Sundays and holidays. The favourite delicacies on such festive occasions consist of porchettu (roast pork) and the excellent Malvagia wine produced near Quartu. On 21st May the festival of St. Helena is celebrated here , the main feature of it being a procession of richly decked oxen.

From Cagliari to S. Maria di Buonaria, :/z nr- — We follow the road leading to the E. from the Via di Buonaria, and pass the remains of the very ancient church of 8. Bardiglio. The church of S. Maria di Buonaria contains numerous votive offerings from mariners and convicts. About 1/2 M. from it there is a large prison. In '/2 hr. more we arrive at the top of the Capo S. Blia, where some rude attempts at hewing the rock appear to indicate that an ancient settlement once existed here.

Sardinia. IGLESIAS. 40. Route. 371

The S. E. angle of Sardinia is the wildest and least populous portion. Excursions towards the S. W. are more interesting. _ To Pdla, I71/2 M. (by diligence, see p. 368 ; or on horseback). The road intersects the Pima, a series of sandy islands connected by numerous bridges and separating the Stagno di Cagliari from the sea. It passes Orri where there is a picturesque country-seat of the Marchese Villa Hermosa ■ it then leads to S. Pielro Pula, and past a ruined 'nurago' and a Roman aqueduct on the promontory of Pula (2 M.) to the church of £. Efisio, occupying the site of the ancient Nora, of which a few traces (a quay, the small theatre of La Leoniera, etc.) are still visible. Pula possesses ex- cellent spring-water, and has therefore always been a favourite naval station. In 1804 Nelson spent a considerable time here.

To Iglesias. There are numerous mines in the S.W. part of the is- land, of which Iglesias is the principal town. Railway thither (34 II.) from Cagliari ; two trains daily in 2>/4 hrs. ; fares 6 fr. 15, 4 fr. 30, 2 fr. 45 c. — The line diverges from the main line at Decimomannu (see below). Stations Via, Siliqua, Musei. — Iglesias [Alb. del Leone, with trattoria, R. 2 fr. ; Caffi delta Orotta, adjoining the cathedral), a picturesquely situated town with 12,000 inhab., is an episcopal see with a cathedral of 1215, and possesses ancient walls and a castle which was restored by the Ar- agonese in 1325. It also contains a good engineering school, with some interesting collections. The town is surrounded by beautiful gardens, the finest of which belongs to the Dominicans. — About 2 M. from Igle- sias lies Monteponi (1095 ft.; omn. daily in 1/2 hr., 60 c), near which is a very productive lead-mine. A private railway runs hence via 0/2 II.) Ponte Cartau, (3 M.) Gonnesa, where the omnibus (mentioned below) to S. Antioco meets the train , and (8 M.) Culmine , to (13 M.) Porlovesme, near the fishing-village of Porto Scuso. To Carloforte , the chief place of the small island of S. Pietro, opposite Porto Scuso, by boat in 1 hr.

From Gonnesa an omnibus plies daily in 6 hrs. to S. Antioco (no inn), a town with 3500 inhab. on the small island of the same name, which is separated from Sardinia by a narrow strait crossed by a bridge. Near the town, which occupies an unusually healthy situation, numerous relics of antiquities have been discovered. Among these are Fortifications, two Roman Necropolae, extensive Christian Catacombs, with some tolerably well-preserved frescoes, and numerous Inscriptions. The women of this district wear a very picturesque costume.

To the N. of Iglesias , in the middle of a mining district which was also worked by the ancients, lies the ruined Temple of Antas, called by the neighbouring shepherds the 'Domus di Gregori'. To reach it we ascend on foot to (2V2-3 hrs.) the farm of S. Angelo, where we procure a guide to lead us to the (V2 hr.) ruins.

From Cagliari to Sassari.

161 II. Railway in 11 hrs. (one through-train daily) ; fares 29 fr. 40, 20 fr. 60, 11 fr. 90 c.

The train traverses the extensive plain of the Campidano, and passes the Stagno di Cagliari. 5 M. Elmas; 8 M. Assemini; lO1^ M. Decimomannu, where the line to Iglesias (see above) diverges.

16 M. Villasor; 20y2M. Serramanna ; 24 M. Samassi, whence an omnibus plies daily to Laconi (p. 375).

28 M. Sanluri is a large village with a ruined castle and several old churches, where a son of the Aragonese king Martin defeated Brancaleone Doria in 1409. The manners and costume of the peas- antry here are peculiar. The houses in the Campidano are built of spongy, sun-dried brick.

31 M. 8. Oavino. To the right we observe the castle of Mon-

24*

372 Route 40. ORISTANO. Sardinia.

reale, once the seat of the Giudioi of Arborea, still in excellent preservation. Saffron is largely cultivated here. 36 M. Pabillonis; 43 M. TJras, in a fertile plain at the base of the volcanic Monte Aroi, the scene of a victory gained by the Marchese d'Oristano over the Spanish viceroy in 1470. — 48 M. Marrubiu, whence an omnibus runs to Torralba (p. 373). The train now skirts a lake separated by a narrow strip of land only from the Bay of Oristano.

59 M. Oristano (Casa Mauca, Caffe fy Albergo a" Arborea, both indifferent), a town with 7000 inhab., the seat of an archbishop, is situated on the Tirso, in a marshy locality in the midst of an ex- tensive plain. It was founded in the 11th cent, by the inhabitants of the ancient Tharrus. Many towers of the mediaeval fortifications are still standing. The palace in which the Giudici of Arborea re- sided is still pointed out. The large Cathedral of the 17th cent, contains several pictures by Marghinotti, a modern Sardinian artist. The piazza adjoining the cathedral is embellished with a marble Statue of Eleonora a" Arborea (p. 367).

Excursions. Oristano itself is an uninviting place, but there are several pointsf of interest in the neighbourhood. Tharros, with its tombs, the richest mine of antiquities in Sardinia, may be reached on horseback in 3-4 hrs. Nearly halfway to it lies Cabras , on the salt-lake Mare Pontis (excellent fishing), with the ruins of a castle where Eleonora of Arborea first accorded the charter of liberty (Carta de Logu) to her subjects. A good oppor- tunity of observing the native costumes is to be had here on Thursdays, when numerous peasants from all parts of the country come to provide themselves with fish for their Friday fast. Leaving Cabras, a ride of 2 hrs. more brings us to the Promontory of S. Marco , where the abbey- church of 8. Giovanni de Sinis indicates the site of the ancient town of Tharros. Farther S., on the coast, is situated the Necropolis, where nu- merous antiquities have been found. On the brow of the promontory there are upwards of 20 nuraghi.

Another excursion is from Oristano (by carriage in 272-3 hrs.) to the ruins of the ancient town of Cornus, situated on the coast to the N. — The village of Milis, at the base of Monte Ferru (3440 ft.), may be reach- ed by carriage in 2 hrs. ; near it is the charming country -residence of the Marchese Boyl, with beautiful orange-gardens , containing upwards of 300,000 trees (some of them 6 ft. in circumference). — To Fordungianus, on the left bank of the Tirso, on horseback in 3i/2 hrs. The modern village (no inn) occupies the site of the ancient Forum. Trajani, the greater part of which lies 3-6 ft. below the present level of the soil. Relics of antiquity are seen on every side. Near the river is a thermal spring, with the remains of the Roman baths. On the opposite bank, on the way to Villa Nuova, are the scanty ruins of an amphitheatre. The Casa del Comune contains a collection of antiquities. From this point to Tonara or Aritzo ■at the base of Gennargentu is a day's ride (comp. p. 376); road to the station of Simaxis (see below).

Beyond Oristano, of which a fine retrospect is enjoyed, the train traverses a fertile plain and several green valleys. 63 M. Simaxis, whence a road leads to Fordungianus (see above) ; 64y2 M. Solnrussa; 70 M. Bauladu. At (77 M.) Paulilatino (3000 inhab.) we observe a nurago and several giants' graves. The vegetation now loses the African character presented by the palms and cacti and become more like that of Central Italy. On the left are the heights of Monte Ferru. 81 M. Abbasanta; SliJ2 M. Borore ; 90 M. Birori.

Sardinia. MAOOMER. 40. Route. 373

951/2M. Macomer (Albergo Toscario, tolerable; a new hotel was recently opened near the station; Caffe Garibaldi), a small town with 2500 inhab., loftily situated (1890 ft. above the sea) on the slope of the mountains of the Catena del Marghine, commanding distant views of the Gennargentu and other peaks of the central chain. Near it lay the ancient Macopsisa, where a number of Roman an- tiquities have been found. In front of the church are three ancient milestones, two of Vespasian and one of Sept. Severus, proving that a Roman road once passed here. Macomer is connected by a narrow- gauge railway with Bosa, on the "W. coast, and Nuoro (p. 376; diligence hence to' Orosei on the B. coast).

No district in Sardinia contains such a number of Nuraghi as the environs of Macomer. These monuments are sufficiently conspicuous, but as they are often difficult of access owing to the rank grass and under- wood surrounding them, the services of a guide will be found acceptable. That of ~S. Barbara, about 1/2 M. to the N. of the town, not far from the high-road, deserves a visit on account of its excellent state of pre- servation. It is square in form, and surrounded by four small cones. Another similar monument, called Tamuli (possibly from 'tumuli'), is about 4 M. to the W. of Macomer. It is a well-preserved nurago , in which were discovered curious idols, believed by La Marmora to be Phoenician. The platform commands an admirable view. About 50 paces to the E. of the Tamuli, and partly concealed by thistles, are six cones of stone 5 ft. in height, three of them with women's breasts.

Beyond Macomer the train reaches the plateau of La Campeda (2250 ft.). 101 M. Campeda; 112 M. Bonorva, a town with 5000 inhab. , who are engaged in tilling the soil and rearing cattle ; 116 M. Oiave. 119 M. Torralba, with the ancient, formerly epi- scopal church of S. Pietro di Torres (containing mediaeval sculptures), and two of the most remarkable nuraghi in Sardinia, those of Sant' Antino and Oes, the former consisting of several chambers one above the other, the latter surrounded by three small cones of stone. From Torralba an omnibus plies daily to Marrubiu (p. 372).

128 M. Mores. — 132 M. Chilivani, whence a branch-line runs to (6 M.) Ozieri (to be continued to Tirso, a station on the above- mentioned branch-line from Macomer to Nuoro).

Fkom Chilivani to Golfo degli Aranci, 0772 M., railway in 3 hrs. (fares 10 fr. 50, 7 fr. 35, 4 fr. 20 c.) ; one through-train daily. The inter- vening stations are Ozieri, Oschiri, Berchidda, Monti, and Ennas. (From Monti a narrow-gauge railwav runs to Tempio via Calangianus, Luras, and Nuchis; 25 M. in about 2 hrs., fares 4 fr. 10, 2 fr. 75, and 1 fr. 60 c.) — 44 M. Terranova (Albergo; Brit, vice-consul), a town with 2500 inhab., on the E. coast, occupies the site of the ancient Olbia, the walls of which may still be traced. A Roman Bath has lately been brought to light in the court of a house here. — 51Vs M. Marinella; 57 M. Golfo degli Aranci Stazione; 57'/2 M. Golfo degli Aranci Marina, the terminus, at the Capo Figari, a port of call for several lines of steamers (p. 365).

The train now follows the Bio de las Perdas Alvas, which flows to the W. between wooded heights. 139 M. Ardara. Near (144i/2 M.) Ploaghe rises a volcanic hill, where an ancient stream of lava is distinctly traced. On the N. side of the ravine stands a *Nurago, the 'Nuraghu Nieddu' (i. e. 'the black'), consisting of several chambers one above the other, and easy of access.

374 Route 40. SASSARI. Sardinia.

150 M. Campomela; 15272 M. Scala di Oioeca; 157 M. Tissi- Vsini ; 159 M. Caniga; 161 M. Sassari.

Sassari.

Hotels. -Italia, Piazza Azuni, R. , dej., & D. 7 fr. ; Hotel S. Mae- tino, new; Concordia, Via delle Finanze, good Genoese cuisine, but poor rooms. — Caffe Mortara, Piazza Castello. — Drinking-water bad.

British Vice-Consul, Sig. C. Bellieni.

Sassari, the capital of the province of that name, with 36,400 inhab., an archiepiscopal see and seat of a university, is the chief town in the island next to Cagliari, but is built in a much better and more modern style. The two towns have for centuries aspired to the exclusive rank of capital of Sardinia. In Aug., 1855, the cholera carried off nearly one-third of the inhabitants within twenty days. The native costumes of the neighbouring villages are picturesque.

The handsome Piazza is embellished with a Statue of Azuni (d. 1827), the eminent teacher of commercial law, erected in 1862. — The ancient Walls and the Doria tower owe their origin to the Gen- oese. The picturesque Castle (now a barrack) was erected by the Aragonese in 1330. — The *Cathedral, with a modern facade, con- tains a painting of the school of Carracci, and (to the left of the choir) the tomb of the Due de Maurienne, a brother of Victor Emmanuel I., who died at Sassari in 1802. The church delta Trinita has a Descent from the Cross of the 15th century. The University, dating from the 17th cent., is attended by about 80 students only. It contains small collections of Roman antiquities and natural history.

The Theatre, the Municipality, and the Hospital are handsome buildings. The Museum is rich in terracottas, lamps, pottery, and other antiquities of Phoenician and Roman origin. The town is now encircled by promenades, including the Giardino Pubblico, where concerts are often given.

On the E. side of Sassari is the copious Fontanel del Bosello, the water of which is carried up to the town in small barrels by donkeys. The fountain, dating from 1605, is in the tasteless style of the period, and is crowned with a statue of S. Gavinus, the tutelary saint of the N. part of the island, who is said to have been a Roman centurion and to have embraced Christianity at the time of the persecution by Diocletian.

A favourite excursion from Sassari is to the village of Osilo (2 hrs. on horseback), situated 2130 ft. above the sea-level, and commanding fine views, especially from the pinnacles of a ruined castle of the Malaspina family, or from the still loftier Cappella di Bonaria (2500 ft.).

Another excursion may be made to the romantic valley of Ciocca, and the abbey of the Madonna di Saccargia (date 1116), constructed of co- loured marble.

From Sassari a Railway (narrow gauge), 2IV2 M., in l'/2 hr. (fares 3 fr. 60, 2 fr. 40, 1 fr. 40 c), runs via, (71/2 M.) Olmedo to the fortified seaport town of Alghero, with 10,000 inhab., founded by the Genoese family of Doria in 1102. At a later period Catalonians, whose language is still spoken by the inhabitants, |settled here. In 1541 Charles V. landed here on his way to Africa, and spent several days in the Casa Albis, which is still shown. The town is an episcopal see and possesses a cathedral of 1510. Many of the houses are of medieval origin. Coral and shell-fish are among the staple commodities (the pinna marina is often found here). The en-

Sardinia. PORTO TORRES. 40. Route. 375

virons produce wine, oil, and southern fruits in abundance. The neigh- bouring "Grottoes of Neptune contain remarkably fine stalactites.

From Sassari to Porto Torres, 12i/2 M., railway in 3/4 hr. (fares 2 fr. 30, 1 fr. 60, 95 c). Stations: 2>/2 ' M. San? Orsola; 3 M. San Giorgio; 4^2 M. San Giovanni.

12V2 M. Porto Torres {Cafe Suisse, and several other cafes and restaurants), occupying the site of the Roman Turris Libyssonis, now the seaport of Sassari, and consisting of a single long street, is noto- rious for its malaria. The shipping-trade is of some importance, the chief hranch of it being the export of oxen to Marseilles. Above the town (}/i M. from the quay) stands the church of *S. Gavino, a ba- silica of the 11th cent., in the ancient style, with antique columns, raised choir, and an open roof. Several ancient relics are built into the walls. The crypt contains the saint's tomb and ancient sarcophagi.

A little to the W. of the harbour (reached by the road to the right) are situated extensive Roman ruins. The brook which falls into the harbour is crossed by an ancient Roman Bridge of seven arches of unequal span , substantially constructed of massive blocks of stone. Between the bridge and the harbour are the ruins of a large Temple of Fortune, near which once stood a basilica, restored by the Emp. Philip the Arabian in A.D. 247. The relics of the latter now bear the name of II Palazzo del Re Barbaro. An aqueduct and numerous rock-tombs also still exist. Steamboats, see p. 365.

From Cagliari to Nuoro, with Excursions to the Mountains of La Barbagia.

Excursions to the mountainous districts of the interior are most con- veniently made by the Narrow-Gauge Railway from Cagliari via Isili to Sorgono (1021/s M.), and thence by the Carriage Road leading to Nuoro, which is traversed by diligences. Digressions must of course be made on foot or horseback. From Cagliari to Nuoro in all about 124 M.

The railway runs towards the N., passing (3^2 M.) Monserrato- Pirri, (7 M.) Settimo, (13 M.) Soleminis, (15 M.) Sicci, and (22 M.) Donori. Beyond (27Y2 M.) Barrali, where the valley of the Mannu is reached, we ascend along that river to (32 M.) Senorbi, at the S. extremity of the hilly and fertile district of Trejenta. 34 M. Suelli; 38l/2M. Gesico; 43 M. Mandas (1610 ft.); 46 M. Serri; 51 M. Isili (1460 ft.), the capital of this province. The neigh- bouring district contains numerous nuraghi. The railway next tra- verses the lofty plain of La Giara , entirely of basaltic formation, with a great number of nuraghi on the heights. It then leads through a pleasant valley, passes the chapel of S. Sebastiano and the vil- lage of (56i/2 M.) Nurallao (1335 ft), and reaches the small town of (66 M.) Laconi (2000 inhab. ; 1750 ft. above the sea), situated at the W. base of the shelving plain of Sarcidano, whence a torrent descends near a ruined castle and forms a waterfall in the gardens of the Marchese di Laconi. An omnibus runs daily from Laconi to Samassi (p. 371).

376 Route 40. NUORO. Sardinia.

The railway next proceeds to the N. to (69>/2 M.) Fontanamela, (72 M.) Ortuabis, and (79 M.) Meana, and then ascends to the E. to (90 M.) Belvi-Aritzo (2680 ft.), the latter a mountain-village at the foot of the Fontana Congiada (4945 ft.), whence Oagliari derives its supply of ice in summer.

Aritzo is an excellent starting-point for a visit to the mountainous district of the Barbagia, the wildest part of Sardinia, the inhabitants of which boast that they never succumbed either to the Carthaginians or to the Romans. The expedition requires 3-4 days. A guide and a supply of food and blankets should be obtained at Aritzo, as it may be necessary to spend a night in a shepherd's hut.

1st Day. On horseback (3-4 hrs.) to the "Punta Bruncu Spina [6290 ft.), the summit of the Gennargentu , and the highest point in Sardinia , com- manding a superb view of the island and the Mediterranean. A spring near the top is a suitable spot for a halt. The descent is made on the N. side to Fonni (3275 ft.), on the Monte Spada (5335 ft.), a town with 3200 inhab., where the night is spent.

2nd Day. From Fonni by the left bank of the Rio Gobbo to the pass of Col di Correboi (4175 ft.); then a descent into the valley of the Rio di Perda Cuadda, one of the highest affluents of the Flumendosa. A good resting-place is near the picturesquely-shaped rocks of Perdaliana (4310 ft.).

3rd Day. Through the woods on the left bank of the Flumendosa to the chapel of <S. Sebastiano (3110 ft.), near Seui, where there are coal- mines; thence between Monte Orru and Monte Perdedu to Seulo (2625 ft.).

4th Day. From Seulo we return to Laconi, either towards the W., crossing the Flumendosa by a ford (passable in dry weather only), and traversing the lofty district of Sarcidano and the oak-forest of Laconi (the more direct route); or from Seulo we proceed towards the S., pass the nurago of S. Cosimo and a small mud-volcano (similar to the Macca- lubi in Sicily) , descend to the Flumendosa , cross the river by a ford, l'/z M. to the N. of Villanova Tulo, and ascend to that village, whence we cross the plain of Sarcidano to Laconi (6 hrs. ; a longer route than the above, but pleasanter and more picturesque).

From Aritzo the railway leads along the W. slope of the Gen- nargentu (see above), passing (92!/2 M.) Desulo-Tonara, the latter a picturesquely-situated mountain-village, whence the summit may be reached without difficulty in 3-4 hrs. — 102^ M. Sorgono (Inn, tolerable), the terminus of the railway. From this point the more direct route to Nuoro (about 22 M.) does not lead to Gavoi, hut passes Fonni and proceeds to Mamojada, whence there is also a carriage-road (a drive of 3 hrs.) to —

Nuoro (Albergo del Cannon d'Oro, very fair), a district-capital and episcopal see (6300 inhab.), situated on the slope of a hill (1905 ft.), with a view of the Gennargentu and the nearer moun- tains. Nuoro is connected by a narrow-gauge railway with Macomer (comp. p. 373). Diligence from Nuoro to Orosei daily in 5 hrs. Orosei, the ancient Cedrinus, is a small seaport on the E. coast. Steamers, see p. 365.

41. Excursion to Malta.

The Stkamkks of the Florio - Rubattino Co. afford a convenient oppor- tunity of visiting the island of Malta from Syracuse. They start once a week (Sun. 9 p.m.), reach Malta next morning, and quit it again in the afternoon. Fare to or from the steamer 1 shilling. Passports, though not absolutely necessary, are useful. Those who intend returning to Sicily the same evening sliould devote the forenoon to the town (harbour, cathe-

History. MALTA. 41. Route. 377

dral, and palace of the governor), then drive to Citta Vecchia (p. 379), now connected by railway with La Valetta (calesse, a kind of gig, there and back 4-5 fr.). — Steamboats also ply between Malta and Tunis, Tripoli, Algiers, etc.

English money is the currency of the island , but French and Italian gold is also in common circulation.

The group of the islands of Malta, Oozzo, and Comino lies 56 M. to the S. of the coast of Sicily, 174 M. from the S. ex- tremity of Italy, and 187 M. from the African coast. N. latitude of La Valetta, the capital, 35° 54'; E. longitude 14° 31'. Malta is 20 M. in length , and 9*/2 M. in breadth; Gozzo 10y2 M. long and 5'/4 M. broad; Coraino iy2 M. long and li/4 M. broad. The high- est point of Malta is 590 ft. above the sea-level. The total popu- lation of the islands is 160,000 souls, of whom about 10,000 are English and foreigners. The climate is hot (mean temperature in January 61°, in August 95° Fahr.). The island of Malta rises pre- cipitously from the sea in the form of a sterile rock, and appears at first sight entirely destitute of vegetation , the fields and gardens being enclosed by lofty walls and terraces of stone. Through the indefatigable industry of the inhabitants in pulverising the upper stratum of rock and in irrigating the soil , nearly two- thirds of the barren surface have been converted into luxuriantly fertile arable land. The produce yielded is rarely less than fifteen to twenty-fold, whilst in some favoured spots it amounts to fifty or sixty-fold. After the hay or corn-harvest in May and June the land is generally sown for the second time with cotton, which is also manufactured here. Fruit is very abundant, especially oranges , lemons , and figs. The natives are a mixed race, being descendants of the various nations who have at dif- ferent periods been masters of the island. Their language is a corrupt dialect of Arabic mingled with Italian (lingua Maltese). Most of the higher classes understand Italian , which is also the official language in the law-courts. English, however, is used in the other departments of government and spoken by the higher officials. The Maltese are well known throughout the Mediter- ranean as an enterprising seafaring and commercial people. Their island is indebted to its central position for its great strategic importance. Being a convenient station on the route to the East, and boasting of an admirable harbour, the island is, like Gibraltar, one of the principal bulwarks of the naval supremacy of England. The English garrison usually numbers about 7000 men.

Malta is supposed to be identical with the island of Ogygia mentioned by Homer, where the nymph Calypso, the daughter of Atlas, whose cavern is still pointed out on the adjacent island of Gozzo, is represented as hav- ing enslaved Odysseus. The Phoenicians of Sidon most probably founded a colony here at a very early period, after which Greek settlers repaired to the island (about the year B. C. 736). The island, then called Melite , with a capital of the same name, was conquered by the Carthaginians about B. C. 400, and afterwards (in B. C. 212) fell into the hands of the Romans. The latter erected temples to Apollo and Proserpine, and a theatre, a few traces of which still exist. In the autumn of A.D. 61 St. Paul was wrecked

378 Route 41. LA VALETTA. Malta.

on the N. coast of the island, and converted several of the inhabitants to Christianity. In 454 Malta was conquered by the Vandals, in 464 by the Goths, in 533 by Belisarius for the E. Empire, in 870 by the Arabs , and again in 1090 by the Normans under Roger, by whom it was united with the kingdom of Sicily. It then shared the fortunes of Sicily down to 1530, when the Emperor Charles V. presented the island to the knights of St. John after their expulsion from Rhodes by the Turks. The order now assumed the title of knights of Malta, and gallantly defended the island, which had become one of the great bulwarks of Christianity, against the repeated attacks of the Turks. The most fearful siege they sustained was hat of 1565, when they were attacked by the principal armament of Sultan Soliman II. under Mustapha and Piale. In consequence of this event the Grand Master Jean de la Valette founded the town of La Valette (now the capital), which is regarded as impregnable. On 17th June, 1798, Buona- parte, when on his way to Egypt, gained possession of the town through treachery and stratagem, but on 8th Sept., 1800, after a siege of two years , it was captured by the English , who have since been masters of the island.

La Valetta. — Hotels. Hotel Imperial , Via S. Lucia 91, pens, for more than 2 days, 9s.; Durnsford's Hotel, Strada Reale 247, pens. 9s., cheaper after April ; Anoleterre , pens. 10 fr. ; all of the first class and in the English style; Hotel de Paris, Via Stretta 44, R. , L., & A. 2-5, dej. 2x/2, D. 3 fr. (both incl. wine); Hotel d'Australie, unpretending.

Valetta, the capital of the island, erected in 1566-71, with about 70,000 inhab. , rises in an amphitheatrical form on a pro- montory, which is surrounded by deeply indented bays. The Har- bour on the S.E. side, one of the best on the Mediterranean, being well sheltered and upwards of 60 ft. deep, is defended by Fort St. Elmo and other batteries and considered almost impregnable. Various Oriental elements are observable in the busy scene here. The streets ascend precipitously from the quay, often by means of long flights of steps , and are far superior in cleanliness to those of other towns on the Mediterranean. The Strada Reale, extending from St. Elmo to the Porta Reale, a distance of more than ^2 M., is the principal street.

The richly decorated cathedral of S. Giovanni, dating from 1576, contains numerous monuments of Grand Masters and knights of the Maltese Order, grouped according to their nationality.

1st Chapel on the right (del Crocifisso) : Beheading of St. John, altar- piece by Mich. Angela Caravaggio. — 2nd Chapel, Portuguese : monuments of Manoel Pinto and the Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena, the latter en- tirely of bronze. — 3rd Chapel, Spanish: monuments of four Grand Masters, the largest being those of Roccafeuil and N. Coloner. — 4th Chapel, Provencals. — 5th Chapel , della Vergine, richly decorated with silver: town-keys, taken from the Turks, are preserved here as trophies. — To the left of the principal entrance is the bronze monument of the Grand Master Marc Antonio Zondadario. — 1st Chapel on the left (or Sacristy) contains a few portraits. — 2nd Chapel, Austrians. — 3rd Chapel, Italians: pictures (St. Jerome and Mary Magdalene) attributed to Caravaggio. — 4th Chapel, Frenchmen : monuments of two Grand Masters and of Prince Louis Philippe of Orleans (d. 1808). — 5th Chapel, Bava- rians. — A staircase descends hence to a vault containing the sarcophagi of L'Isle Adam, the first Grand Master, La Valette, and several others.

The Palace op the Governor, formerly the residence of the Grand Master , is sumptuously fitted up , and still contains a num- ber of interesting objects, though the French plundered it of many

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of its treasures. The council-chamber contains some fine tapestry, and the armoury a collection of weapons of the period of the knights. One of the corridors is hung with portraits of the Grand Masters. — The Houses of the different nationalities (such as the Auberge de Provence, d'Auve*gne, de Castille, de France, and d'ltalie) have all undergone considerable change. — Adjacent to the palace is the handsome building of the Library, with about 40,000 vols, and a few Phoenician and Roman antiquities found in the island.

Pleasant Walks along the ramparts , which are adorned with numerous statues of Grand Masters and of English Governors. The best point of view is at the Baracca Nuova. The Botanic Garden is also a favourite resort.

On the E. side of the harbour lies the older part of the town, called the Citth Vittoriosa, inhabited by the lower classes. Farther distant is the Burmula , or Citth Cospicua, with its new docks; and lastly the Senglea or Isola. The entrance to the harbour here is commanded by the fort of Ricasoli.

An aqueduct, begun in 1610, with numerous arches intersect- ing the environs, supplies the town with water. The Palace of S. Antonio, the residence of the Governor, with a large and well- kept garden (visitors admitted), is about 4^2 M. distant. The forti- fied Citta, Vecchia, or La Notabile, 2M. farther (railway, seep. 377), the ancient capital of the island, contains a few relics of the Roman period. The richly decorated Cathedral is said to occupy the site of the house of Publius, who when governor of the island accord- ed a hospitable reception to St. Paul (Acts, xxviii). The terrace commands an extensive prospect. The church of S. Paolo is erected over a grotto which is said to have been occupied by the Apostle during the three months of his stay on the island. The sacristan also shows some catacombs in the vicinity , which are partly of ante-Christian origin, but otherwise uninteresting. — II Boschetto, an extensive public garden which may be visited if time permits, lies 2 M. to the S. of Citta Vecchia.

The island of Comino is almost uninhabited. Gozzo, which is well cultivated, was the ancient Oaulos, the site of a Phoenician, and afterwards of a Roman town. La Torre de' Qiganti, con- structed of blocks of rock without mortar, possibly belonged to a Phoenician temple.

42. Excursion to Tunis.

Carthage.

Comp. the Map, p. 379. The latter is founded on the latest French ord- nance map, which for the sake of uniformity has also been followed in the spelling of the Arabic names in the text.

Steamboats to Goletta (Tunis). 1. Fkom Cagliaki (and from Genoa, Leghorn, or Naples). A steamboat of the Soeieta Florio-Rubattino leaves Genoa every Thursday at 9 p.m., and Leghorn on Fridays at midnight ; another leaves Naples on Saturdays at 11 a.m. (passengers for Goletta by the last must change boats at Cagliari) ; from Cagliari on Sunday at 7 p.m.

380 Route 42. PANTELLERIA. Excursion

crossing direct, reaching Goletta on Monday at 12 noon and returning on Wednesday at 1 p.m. Fares from Cagliari to Goletta, 48 fr. , 32 fr. — 2. Fkom Palekmo a steamer of the Florio-Rubattino Co. plies once weekly to Goletta via Trapani, Favignana, Marsala, and the island of Pantellaria, starting on Tues. at midnight, leaving Marsala at 9 p.m.on Wed., and arriving at Pantellaria at 5 a.m. and Goletta at 3 p.m. on Thursday. The long sea- voyage from Palermo may be avoided by'taking the train to Marsala, in which case a visit to Segesta and Selinunto may be combined with this excursion. Fares from Palermo to Goletta, 63 fr., 45 fr. ; from Marsala 45 fr., 30 fr. Return- tickets, see pp. xvn, 276. — 3. Feom Malta a steamer of the same company sails every week via Tripoli. — 4. A steamer of the Compagnie Ginirale Transatlantigue leaves (a) Marseilles for Tunis direct every Mon. , Wed., and Frid. at 5 p.m. (fares 125, 95, 55 fr.); (b) from Malta every Thurs. at noon, returning on Mon. at 10 a.m. — A passport is not required. Travellers should enquire on the spot with regard to these routes, in case of alterations, and also with regard to quarantine regulations. The small Italian steamers are sometimes de- layed an entire day by bad weather. The French steamers are preferable.

French Gold is the best kind of money for this excursion (comp. p. 383).

The steamboats from Cagliari and from Malta do not touch any- where on their way to Tunis. The steamer from Palermo calls at Trapani, Favignana, and Marsala, and 7 hrs. after leaving the last reaches Pantelleria, an island of volcanic origin, 30 M. in circum- ference, and 58 sq. M. in area, situated more than halfway to the African coast. The extinct crater in the interior of the island rises nearly 2000 ft. above the sea. Numerous hot mineral springs still afford evidence of slumbering volcanic agency. The inhabitants, 7000 in number, speak a peculiar dialect compounded of Arabic and Italian, and carry on a considerable trade in the excellent figs, raisins, capers, and other products of their island. Pantelleria was the Cossyra of antiquity. It was occupied by the Phoenicians at an early period. The chief village (2500 inhab.), lies on the N.W side of the island. The citadel contains an Italian penal colony.

Farther on we come in sight of Cape Farina (W.) and Cape Bon (E.J, with its lighthouse, two conspicuous points on the coast of Africa, which is green in winter only, and we soon enter the Bay of Tunis. To the E. of the entrance lie the small islands oiDjamur (the^Egi- mures of the ancients) , the larger of which is called Zimbra and the smaller Zimbretta.

The bay contracts ; to the left rise precipitous and barren cliffs, forming an imposing frame to the bay ; and in a few hours the landing-place at Goletta becomes visible. On the right rises the promontory of Carthage, which marks the spot where stood the ancient city of that name (comp. p. 386); it is crowned by a con- spicuous lighthouse and slopes precipitously on the E. and N. sides, while on it now lies the Arab village of Bou-Sa'id. On the left rise the high mountains of Boukoumin and Djebel Resas. Farther to the S. the fine outline of the Zaghouan range is descried.

Goletta. — Arrival. The steamboat casts anchor in the roadstead at a considerable distance from Goletta. The traveller is conveyed in a small steamer to the Douane (custom-house), where his luggage is slightly examined.

The most promising of the throng of negroes and Arabs who proffer

to Tunis. GOLETTA. 42. Route. 381

their services may be engaged to carry luggage to the Railwav for Tunis (see below), and to act as guide (fee 50-70 c). The necessary directions may be given (as shortly and simply as possible) in Italian, which most of them understand a little. Offers of assistance from other persons should be declined.

Hotel. Hotel db France, tolerable.

Ooletta, Fr. La Ooulette, with about 3600inhab., chiefly Arabs, Jews, and negroes, in picturesqe costumes, is the port of Tunis, from which it is about 10 M. distant; its fortifications are unim- portant. Its coolness in summer (thermometer seldom above 90° Fahr. in the shade) and its excellent sea-baths render it a favourite 'resort at that season. The Palace of the Bey, is situated to the right of the canal which connects the bay with the inner creek, ElBahira. On the left of this canal are the Douane, the Harem of the Bey, the Court of Justice, and the Arsenal.

The Railway of the Florio - Rubattino Co. has two lines (comp. the Map), on which most of the trains make a circular trip: from Tunis via La Marsa (p. 386) and La Malka (p. 385) to Goletta, and then back direct; or vice versa. Only a few trains run exclu- sively on the direct line from Goletta to Tunis.

1. Direct Line, 10 M., in i/2 hr. (fares 2 fr. 5, 1 fr. 45, 75 c). The train skirts the N. margin of the bay of El Bahira, and we observe the island oiSchikly, with a mediaeval castle built by Char- les V., which contains a large leaden reservoir. The lake is enliv- ened by countless wild fowl, including flamingoes, which afford excellent sport (free to all). The station at Tunis is on the Marinn, to the E. of the town.

2. Via La Marsa, 15M., in about lhr. The train soon diverges from the direct line, and runs to the N. , passing the stations of New Goletta (La Nouvelle Goulette), Kheredine, Khram, Carthage, and La Malka-Saint-Louis. — A1/* M. La Marsa, a favourite sum- mer-resort of the Tunisian grandees (p. 386). From La Marsa to Tunis the train takes Y2 nr- > passing El Aouina, near the spot where Regulus is said to have been defeated and taken prisoner.

Tunis. Porters, as at Goletta, 50-70 c.

Hotels. 'Grand Hotel, R. from 3J/2, pens. 13 fr. ; "Hotel de Paris, ll1/:! fr. per day, cheaper for a prolonged stay, under the same man- agement ; Hotel Gigino, noisily situated in the Place de la Bourse, pens. 0 fr., well spoken of; Hotel de l'Union, corner of the Place de la Bourse ; Hotel du Louvre, Rue de la Commission, cheaper, but not scrupulously clean, R. 2, A. 1/2, dej. 2, D. 2V2, pens. (A. extra) 7 fr. (bargain desirable). — Pension at these does not include B., which is best obtained in a cafe.

Restaurants. Papayanni, Rue d'ltalie; Restaurant Fran^ais, Rue de la Commission, 2nd floor; at both D. incl. wine 2 fr., to subscribers IV2 fr. — Beer at the Brasserie Rissler, behind the Grand Hotel. — It is the universal custom to lunch between 12 and 2 o'clock and to dine between 6 and 8 p.m.

Cafes. De rUnivers, Place de la Bourse; De France, Alcassar, both in the Avenue de France.

Furnished Apartments (let even for a few days; prepayment usual) are numerous; e.g. Maison MeuUte, Rue de la Commission 9.

Baths in the Rue d'Allemagne, well fitted up; bath V/,, Moorish bath, with massage etc., 2>/2 fr.

Steamboat Office of the Florio - Rubattino Co. next the Italian station.

382 Route 42. TUNIS. Excursion

Post Office. Franco - Tunisian Post Office, Avenue de France, ne the Place de la Bourse. Italian Post Office (poste restante for all lette from Italy), Rue des Glacieres.

Carriages. Voitures de place : per day 15 fr. ; per hr. , in the tov\ 1 fr. 80, outside the town 2 fr. 40 c. ; per drive , within the town , 1 i Voitures de Remise: per day 20 fr. ; per hr., in the town 2 fr. 40 c, ou side the town 3 fr. — Cheaper carriages may be hired at the Piazza Gw, taghene, near Bab Cartagine.

Tramways, starting near the Place de la Bourse: 1. Along the Mi rina. — 2. Through the Rue Djazira. — 3. Through the Rue des Malta and its continuations. Fare in all cases 10 c. — Omnibus to various poin in the suburbs.

Guides. None should be engaged but those recommended by the hote keepers or consuls or other respectable persons (5-6 fr. per day). TheJev ish guides offering themselves in the streets should be avoided.

British Consul, R. Drummond Hay, Esq. — Permission to visit tl Bardo (p. 384) must be obtained through the traveller's consul.

Bankers. Bank of Tunis; Compagnie Algirienne. — Goods Agen M. Sel/t, trustworthy. — Physician : Dr. E. S. Camilleri. — Oculis Br. A. Kunitz. — Photographs at CatalanotWs and Garigne^s. — Plai of Tunis and Old Carthage, guide-books, etc., at Bemoflys', Avenue de Marine, and V. Brim's, Eue Djazira. — Newspapers. De'pe'che Tunisienn Observateur, French; Vnione, Italian.

Theatre, with occasional French and Italian performances, usually i summer only. — Variety Theatres and Music Halls (for gentlenw only): French in the Cafi Alcassar (p. 381); Arabic in the Cafi Newyor, Avenue de la Marine, and the Cafi Orient, beside the Italian station, brief visit to the last is not uninteresting.

English Church (St. Augustine) ; service at 10 a.m.

Plan for a short visit. Immediately on arriving, the traveller shou take a walk about the town; visit one of the numerous coffee-houses i the Halfa-ouine square (p. 384; no fee), where the Muslim may be see over his cigarette and coffee. — 1st Day: Visit the Bazaar (p. 383), tt Bar el-Bey (p. 384), the old Fort de la Manoubia (p. 384), and the Jeuri, Quarter (p. 383). After lunch visit the Halfa-ouine Square (p. 384) an the view-point marked Belvedere on our map (p. 384), to see the sunse The evening may be spent at one of the cafes in the Halfa-ouine squar — 2nd Day : Excursion to Carthage, see p. 385. — 3rd Day : Drive via, the fo Sidi-ben-Hassin and the town (8 M.) of Mohamedia, to Ud"na (p. 38T). On tl way back the Sidi-ben-Hassen fort should be ascended for its incomparabl view about sunset. — The traveller should consult his consul before unde taking any of the longer excursions, to Zaghouan, Utica, or Porto Farm

Tunis, the capital of the regency of that name, and the thii largest town in Africa, contains upwards of 150,000 inhah. , < whom about one-fourth are native Jews, and one-fifth Europear of various nationalities, chiefly Italians, Maltese, Greeks, andFrencl The remainder are Moors, Arabs, Turks, Berbers, and negroes. Th regency has been a protectorate of France since 1881 and since th; date the French language and customs have made extraordinai progress, although the Italian element is the largest among theEurc peans. Order is in general well-maintained, and strangers may vis even the Oriental quarters of the town in security. The religion prejudices of the Arabs must of course be respected; and attempt to enter their mosques should on no account be made.

The Kingdom, or, as it is more commonly called, the Regency, of Tunii was under the suzerainty of the Sultan of Turkey from 1575 to 1881, whe it came under French protection. It occupies an area of 70,000 square M., at contains about two million inhabitants. The present Bey, Alt who was boi in 1817, is a descendant of the Hussein family, which has occupied the throi

to Tunis. TUNIS. 42. Route. §383

since 1691;he succeeded his brother, Mohamiped es-Sadok, on Oct. 27th, 1S82. The French General-Resident acts as minister for foreign affairs , and the French commander-in-chief as minister of war. Finance, the post-office, education, and public works are also under the control of French officials, assisted by a Mohammedan prime minister and a secretary of state. Europeans and their dependents are subject to the jurisdiction of French courts, natives to that of the Ferik and the so-called Shaara (access on Thurs. under the escort of a dragoman from the consulate). The Bey is permitted to main- tain a small army as a guard of honour, but the real effective force con- sists of French troops.

Monet. The current coins of the country are piastres and lharubs : 1 piastre=16 silver kharubs=26 copper kharubs ; 32 piastres=20 francs= 16 shillings. A piastre is therefore worth about sixpence, and IV2 piastre about one franc, but the rate of exchange varies. French money is the only foreign currency exchanged without difficulty.

The Europeans reside almost exclusively in the European Quar- ter, which is situated at the S.E. end of the town, and has broad, modern streets. The central point is the Avenue de la Marine, a little to the N. of which is the Italian railway station, and a little to the S. the French station. To the E. this avenue extends almost as far as the EL Bahira Lake (p. 381) ; in the opposite direction it is continued under the name of the Avenue de France to the Place de la Bourse (see below). The Avenue de France, where the French minister -resident lives, is the favorite promenade (military band at 4 p.m. in winter) .

The Maltese and the Oriental quarters occupy the remainder of the town. The Arabic and Moorish quarters (to the S.W. and N.W.) are the cleanest ; the Jewish and Maltese quarters are the dirtiest. Various phases of Oriental life may be witnessed in the narrow and sometimes unpaved streets, which are almost impassable after heavy rain. The town contains the tombs of numerous Mohammedan saints.

A visit to the Oriental quarters is most conveniently begun at the above-mentioned Place de la Bourse, which is always thronged. From the N.W. corner of the square leads the narrow and busy Rue de la Kasbah to the Kasbah or citadel (p. 384). Most of the Jewish population dwell to the right of this street ; a visit to their quarter is specially recommended on their Sabbath, on acount of the gaily- coloured costumes of the young women and children.

To the left of the Rue de la Kasbah is the *Bazaae (PI. 1), consisting of narrow lanes, largely vaulted or covered with boards. These are generally known by the name of Silks (Fr. Souks'), which properly means the various divisions, each of which is generally devoted to the sale of articles of one particular class : in the Si'ik el-Khbebdfiye ('throwsters') are sold fringes and silk wares ; in the Suk el-Attdrin exquisite essences; in the Suk el-Birka (formerly the slave-market) jewellery of every kind and ancient coins ; and at the two lateral approaches, burnouses, haiks, scarfs, etc. Pur- chases should be made without the presence of a guide ; and the various touts should be repulsed with decision. The reserved and grave Arab traders are generally to be prefered. For the dearer articles about one fourth of the price first demanded will be taken.

384 Route 42. TUNIS. Excursion

Some distance up the Rue de la Kasbah we come to a small square with gardens. Here to the left is the Palace of the Bey (Ddr el-Bey; adm. 9-11 and 3-5; apply at the door; fee 1 fr.). It con- tains an interesting small round saloon and a few other rooms with beautifully executed stucco-work in a style introduced by Moors from Spain. Fine *View from the flat roof over the white houses of the town, the numerous mosques in the Moorish style, with their minarets, and the hills of the neighbourhood.

Near the Dar el-Bey, on the highest ground in the city, rises the Kasbah (PL 2), an extensive citadel, dating from the time of Emp. Charles V. In the vicinity is also the palace of the Ferik, or governor of the city, near which are the pleasant promenades of the so-called Fontana, or main reservoir of the waterworks.

The western visitor will find much to interest him in the Halfa- ouine square, or in the course of a walk along the streets encircling the inner town (Rue Djazira, Rue des Maltais, and their continua- tions) ; while the habits of the people and the life in the caravans may be studied at the town -gates, Bab-el-Oourgeni , Bab-el- Livoua, Bab-Sidi-Abdallah, and the adjoining streets and squares.

Excursions.

1 . Fort de la Manoubia. We may take the tramway through the Hue Djazira (p. 387) to its terminus. Thence passing the Zouave barracks and through the gate Bab-el-Oourgeni, we reach the^/^h1-) hill immediately to the S.W. of Tunis, on which once stood the fort. The top affords a magnificent *View of the town, the ElBahira bay, with Goletta and Carthage on its farther side, and the sea and the mountains enclosing the gulf in the background. To the N. is the aqueduct mentioned at p. 390. To the S.W. at our feet lie the salt lake of Sedjoumi and the extensive plain, bounded by the mountains of Zaghouan, rising to the height of 5250 ft.

2. Another fine point of view (especially at sunset) is the chain of hills (the so-called Belvedere) to the E. of Tunis, about 2V4M. from the gate (omn. from the Place de la Bourse to the Bab- el-Kadrah 10 c. ; thence 40 min. walk). The village of El Ariana, about 2 M. to the E. (omnibus from the Place Carthagene hourl) 30 c.), is famous for its roses.

3. About 2 M. to the N.W. of Tunis is situated the *Bardo, an extensive pile of buildings resembling a town in miniature, containing a palace, which the Bey seldom visits, and a state-prison. Admission by card only, 9-11 and 3-5; see p. 387). The railway to theBardo is not used; visitors should hire a carriage by the hour.

The Vestibule is adorned with elaborate Moorish stucco-work. Between 3 and 4 p. m. visitors may be present here at the Saldm Alek, or 'salute' which is performed in honour of the Sultan of Turkey by the master oi the ceremonies in the name of the Bey, and is accompanied by drums and lifes. To the right of the vestibule is the Throne Eoom, containing numer- ous and for the most part miserably bad portraits of Beys and Tunisian dignitaries, and a number of valuable gifts from foreign sovereigns. In

to Tunis. CARTHAGE. 42. Route. 385

one of the adjoining rooms is an Antiquarian Museum (closed), containing Roman mosaics. The Balcony commands a fine view. — Fee, 1 fr.

Adjacent to the Bardo is the chateau of Kasr Said, where the late Bey resided, with uninteresting and neglected gardens. Ahout 3Y2 M. off is the Manouba, a group of villas belonging to the Bey and his magnates, and here also is a Carthaginian Aqueduct, which is still used in supplying the town with excellent running water from the springs of Zaghouan, about 20 M. to the S. of Tunis. Manouba is a station on the railway to Algiers.

4. For a visit to the Ruins op Carthage an entire day is required (provisions should be taken). Return-tickets to La Marsa (valid on both lines, p. 381) should be taken, and the train quitted at La Malka. Photographs and a good plan of the environs of Car- thage (50 c.) may be obtained in the mission-station. A guide may be dispensed with.

Karthada, or 'new town', as the city was originally called, was founded by the Phoenicians (Dido), about B.C. 880, and in the 6th cent. B.C. be- gan to extend its dominion over the W. Mediterranean. In 480 B.C. the Carthaginians came into hostile contact with, the Greeks in Sicily, and in 264 B.C. with the Romans. The town was unsuccessfully besieged by Agathocles in 310-307, menaced by the Consul Regulus in the First Punic War in 255, and taken and entirely destroyed by Scipio in 146. Augustus established a Roman colony here, which owing to the incomparable situ- ation of the town and the fertility of its environs, soon attained the rank of the third city of the empire. In A.D. 439 it was conquered by Gen- seric and made the capital of the Vandal empire, but in 533 succumbed to the attacks of Belisarius. The supremacy of the Byzantine emperors was subverted by the Arabs in 647, and the city destroyed. — The outline of the early city is no longer traceable in consequence of its having so fre- quently been destroyed, and the site itself has undergone extensive changes; but the spot where the Queen of the seas once had her throne is still rich in interest.

We proceed by train to La Malka, near the railway-station of which, to the W. of the line, are the remains of a Roman amphi- theatre. We traverse the Arab village of La Malka to the E., built upon ancient remains known as the Great Cistern, ife M. beyond which lies the Byrsa, or castle - hill of ancient Carthage, crowned by a cathedral in the Oriental style , erected by Cardinal Lavigerie (p. 386). A small chapel was erected on this hill by Louis Phi- lippe in 1841 to the memory of his ancestor Louis the Saint, who died here in 1270 when engaged in a crusade against Tunis. The museum at the mission-station connected with the chapel contains an interesting collection of marble sculptures, small bronzes, lamps and other terracottas, coins, and gems , arranged and described by the Abbe Delattre, the erudite director of the mission (admission on Sun., Mon., Thurs. , and Sat., 2.30-6 p.m.). The garden in which the chapel stands, and which commands a fine view of the harbour of Carthage (see p. 386), contains Phoenician and Roman inscriptions, and reliefs of the Imperial era. There is also a frag- ment of old wall here , with two niches. This hill was probably the site of the temple of the god of healing (the Roman ^Escula- pius) , which rested on a basement approached by 60 steps. Baedekeb. Italv Til. 11th Edition. 25

386 Route 42. CARTHAGE.

Due S. of the Byrsa (Chapelle de St. Louis) was situated the double Harbour of Carthage, constructed by artificial means : the outer or commer- cial harbour was an oblong quadrangle ; the inner or naval harbour, the Kothon, was of a circular form. The two were separated by the city-wall, which extending E. from the Byrsa, excluded the neck of land and the outer harbour, but included the naval harbour, so that the entrance to the latter must have been closed by a gate. In the vicinity of the naval harbour was situated the market-place, connected by three narrow streets, the chief scene of contest during the storming by Scipio, with the castle, which was open towards the town.

About 3/4 M. to the N.E. of St. Louis are the Little Cisterns, seventeen gigantic barrel-vaulted subterranean chambers, of Phoe- nician origin and half- filled with water, which have been partly restored since 1887. The neighbouring Fort Bordj Djdid com- mands a fine view.

We next proceed to the village of Srui Bou Said, picturesquely situated 2 M. to the N.E. of St. Louis and 1 1/4 M. from the cisterns, on the E. extremity of the peninsula of Cape Carthage or Cape Cartagena (380 ft. above the sea"), which has preserved the name of the ancient town. To the left of the road, the remains of a cathe- dral of the Vandals were recently laid bare. Refreshments may be obtained at one of the Arab coffee-houses of the village , which has maintained its Oriental character unimpaired by contact with western civilization. The Lighthouse ('Phare' on the Map; fee V2 fr.) commands an incomparable **View. The site of ancient Carthage lies at our feet, stretching on the S. almost to the El Bahira bay; beyond we survey the whole Gulf of Tunis from Cape Farina on the W. to Cape Bon on the E. , and in the distance are the hills of Boukournin , the Djebel Resas , the mountains of Zaghouan (to the S.), and -the wide plain of Tunis.

We turn to the N.W. from the lighthouse, and follow the cliffs forming the top of the cape, passing the palace of Cardinal La- vigerie, archbishop of Tunis, to (3/4 hr.) La Maksa, a station on the line mentioned at p. 381, with the residences of the Bey and of Taieb Bey, the heir-apparent, the country-house of the French min- ister, etc. We may conclude our tour here , or extend it with ad- vantage for 172-2hrs. more, by visiting Djebel Khaoui and Kamart.

On the summit and slopes of the Djebel Khaoui (345 ft.), still dotted with numerous remains of Punic tombs , lay the necropolis of Carthage. It commands a fine view , to the S. Tunis, to the N.W. the salt lake of Sebkha er-Rouan in the neighbourhood of Utica, and to the E. the open sea. At the foot of the hill to the N. lies Kamart, where the villa of Ben Ayed, charmingly surrounded with palm-trees, may be visited. The neighbourhood of the village, with its shifting sand-hills, affords some idea of the appearance of the desert. Near it, on the Sebkha el-Rouan, are salt-works belong- ing to the government.

5. The excursion to Utica takes a whole day. The ruins of this very ancient Phoenician seaport, which was afterwards the headquarters of a Roman proconsul, where the younger Cato committed suicide (B.C. 46) on

Hotels- CORFU. 43. Route. 387

'v6 Zffw Wt °f P"™Pey's Party in the civil war against Cffisar, are now situated 5 M. from the coast. They do not repay a visit. A visit to Mo- mS a,itndr/Vn„183J (P-3.S2)' and the "eighbonring ruins of W« £ 7 £'„„ nf fh • 6 E; VxW^ th? imP°sil>S rem^°s of the aqueduct of Zaghouan of the reign of Hadrian, is more interesting.

6. The warm springs and baths of Hamm&m Lif lie to the S E of Tunis (ttJi/z M.; railway in 1/2 hr. from the French station). To the S. of Hammam Lif (by carnage from Tunis in 2i/2 hrs.) is a lead-mine on the W slope of the Djebel Resas, dating from the Roman period. — The attractive as- cent of the Boukoumin (about 2300 ft.) may be made from Hammam Lif- extensive view from the top. '

43. Excursion to Corfu.

A Steamboat of the Austrian Lloyd leaves Brindisi for Corfu once a week ; steamers of the Florio-Rubattino Co. thrice a week, making the trip in about 12 hrs. (fares 25 fr. 30, 16 fr. 90 c, food extra); and a steamer of a Greek company once a week. The Austrian and Greek steamers return on Thurs. afternoon, the Florio-Eubattino boats on Sun. at 4 p.m. and on Wed. at 2 p.m. There is also regular steamboat communication between Corfu and Trieste, the Pireeus, Alexandria, etc.

Monet. The French system has been introduced into Greece : 1 drachma = 100 lepta (centimes).

A visit to the charming island of Corfu is recommended even to those who have only two or three days at their disposal and are consequently un- able to extend their excursion to Greece.

Brindisi, see p. 200. On quitting the harbour the steamer at once steers towards the S.E., and the land soon disappears. Next day towards morning the outlines of Albania (Turkey) come in sight, and later the island of Corfu. Othonous, Ertkousi, and the other Othonian Islands are seen to the right. On the left, in Al- bania, rise the lofty peaks of Konto Vouni. The scenery of the wide Strait of Corfu, separating the island from the mainland, is very im- posing. To the right towers Monte S. Salvatore, the loftiest summit in the island. The beautifully situated town of Corfu is at first concealed by the island of Vido.

Corfu. — Arrival. Boat to or from the steamer 1 fr., with heavy luggage I1/2-2 fr. The boatmen are insolent, there is no tariff, and great confusion prevails, so that the traveller had better allow the commission- naire of the hotel to settle with the boatmen and attend to the luggage, for which a charge of 2-2i/2 fr. is made in the bill. The custom-house examination is quickly over.

Hotels. 'Hotel St. George, frequented by the English; "Hotel 4Angleterre & Belle Venise ; these two are of the first class, with baths; the back -windows overlook the Esplanade; R. from 3, pension 9-12, for a long stay 8-10 fr., L. 1-1 V2. bottle of English or Vienna beer 2, Corfu wine (sweet) 1, Ithaca wine 272 fr. — Hotel d'Orient, with trat- toria, prettily situated on the esplanade; "Hotel de Constantinople, near the Dogana, unpretending; Pension Julie, pens. 7-8 fr., well spoken of, adapted for a stay of some time.

Cafes. The principal caf^s are in the Esplanade, at the beginning of the avenue mentioned at p. 388; cup of coffee prepared in the Turkish manner 15 c. — Beer in the hotels, at Pappadtipoulo 's, near the theatre, and at a beer-saloon in the Nikephoros Street, near the Esplanade; Vienna beer I1/2, native '/« fr- Per bottle.

British Consul, R. Reade, Esq. — United States Consular Agent, T. Woodley, Esq.

25*

388 Route 43. CORFU. History.

Post Office, adjoining the Sanita, at the entrance to the town from the sea.

Steamboat Offices, near the post-office.

Carriages obtained at the hotels, 5 fr. per drive in the town or en- virons ; for longer excursions, see p. 390.

Valets-de-Place, 5 fr. per day, may he dispensed with.

Theatre. Italian opera in winter.

Climate. In the latter half of March, in April, and Map the climate of Corfu is usually charming, and a residence here at that season, amid its luxuriant vegetation, is delightful. The temperature is also mild and equable during October and the beginning of November, but June, July, and August are very hot, and in winter heavy rains and sudden changes of temperature are of frequent occurrence. As a winter-residence for inva- lids, particularly those with pulmonary complaints, Corfu therefore com- pares unfavourably with the best-known health-resorts of Italy.

Corfu, the capital of the island of the same name and of a nomarchy or province including the islands of Paxos, Antipaxos, and Leukas , and the seat of archMshops of the Greek and Roman Catholic churches, is one of the most prosperous towns in modern Greece. With its suburbs of Kastrades or Oaritza and Mandoukio, it contains 25,000 inhab. , among whom are 4000 Roman Catho- lics and 2700 Jews. The spacious harbour is enlivened with an active trade , consisting chiefly in the export of olive oil and the import of Russian grain and English manufactures. The for- tifications constructed by the Venetians, the Fortezza Vecchia to the E. of the town and the Fortezza Nuova on the N.W., were once of great strength, hut they were blown up by the English be- fore their departure in 1864, and are now unimportant. As the town was formerly enclosed by a wall, the busy streets are very narrow and the houses often four or five stories high.

Corfu (Gr. KiQxvga, Lat. Corcyra), the second, but most important of the Ionian Islands, was supposed by the ancients to be Scheria, the land of the Phseaci and of their king Alcinous. Colonised from Corinth at an early period (B.C. 734), its power increased so greatly as to become dan- gerous to its mother-city ; and this was one of the chief causes of the Peloponnesian War. The name of Corfu came into use in the middle ages and was at first confined to the rocky heights enclosed in the old fortifi- cations ; it seems to be a corruption of 'Koryphous'. From 1386 to 1797 the island was under Venetian supremacy ; from 1815 to 1864 it was, with the other Ionian Islands , under the protection of England and the seat of government, after which it was ceded to the kingdom of Greece.

On disembarking we cross the court of the Dogana , pass the Hotel de Constantinople on the left, and follow the new street called Sulle Mura, which skirts the N. side of the town, affording numerous fine views, and reaches the Esplanade near the Royal Palace. Or we may proceed from the harbour to the left through the principal street ('Rue Nicephore') to the Esplanade in 5 minutes.

The Esplanade is an extensive open space between the town and the old fortifications. It is traversed by an avenue with double rows of trees , forming a prolongation of the main street. On the W. side it is bounded by a row of handsome houses with arcades on the ground-floor, among which are the two principal hotels. On the N. side rises the —

Kastrades. CORFU. 43. Route. 389

Royal Palace , a three-storied edifice with two wings , in grey Maltese stone, erected for the British Lord High Commissioner. A handsome marble staircase ascends to the first floor, where the vestibule contains an antique lion couchant. The throne-room is adorned with portraits of British sovereigns, and the council-cham- ber of the former Ionian Senate contains portraits of the presidents (visitors generally admitted on application; castellan, 1 fr.). — In front of the palace is a bronze Statue of Sir Frederick Adam, who conferred numerous benefits on the island during his tenure of office as Lord High Commissioner (1823-32).

To the S. of the Esplanade are a small Circular Temple and an Obelisk, also raised in honour of English Commissioners.

At the end of the avenue leading to the fortress, on the left, is a monument commemorating the gallant defence of Corfu against the Turks by the Venetian general Count von der Schulenburg in 1716. "We now pass the sentinels, cross the bridge over the wide and deep moat, and reach the —

*Fortezza Vecchia , the buildings of which are now used only for barracks and a military hospital. The second gateway leads to the Commandant's Residence, where we obtain permission to inspect the works in the office (frourarchfon) on the ground-floor (to the left ; Italian understood). We then pass through another gateway, cross a drawbridge to the left, and traverse a long vaulted passage , at the end of which we give up our permesso to a sentinel. The ram- parts are overgrown with vegetation. The platform on the W. side, reached by a few steps, commands a superb **View of the town of Corfu, and of the whole island from Monte Salvatore and Capo Cassopo on the N. to Capo Bianco on the S. Opposite to us lies the Turkish coast of Epirus with its lofty mountains. The custodian, who speaks Italian, lends a telescope to the visitor (25 c).

At the S. end of the Esplanade is the Gymnasium (last house to the right), with a fine flight of steps. On the open space in front a marble Statue of Kapodistrias was erected in 1887. A broad street descends hence to the Boulevard op the Empress Eliza- beth, formerly the Strada Marina, which is a favourite evening promenade of the Corfiotes. In 6-8 min. we reach the entrance of the suburb of Kastrades or Oaritza, where the dismantled Fort S. Salvador rises on the right. Near the E. base of the dilapidated rampart, about 200 paces from the Boulevard of the Empress Eli- zabeth, is the Tomb of Menecrates, a low circular structure dating from the 6th or 7th cent. B.C.

The Boulevard of the Empress Elizabeth runs hence to the left along the coast, and ends near the remains of an old wind-mill. We follow the principal street towards the S. , passing a church and a red house. In 5 min. we ascend by a road diverging- to the right, opposite the circular apse of the old church of S. Corcyra. The gate on the left is the entrance to the royal villa of *Monrepos ( Villa

390 Route 43. CORFU. Canone.

Reale), the extensive gardens of -which command beautiful views of the town and fortress of Corfu (open free on Thurs. and Sun. after- noons ; on other days, fee y2-l fr.).

The above-mentioned road, passing the entrance to the Villa , leads to the village of Analipsis. Near the village a path diverges to the left and leads through a grove of olives towards the sea. After about 200 paces we reach, a little to the right, the interesting and curious substructures of an Ancient Temple discovered in 1822. This ruin lies about 100 ft. above the sea in a narrow ravine called Kardaki , a name also extended to the surrounding district.

The principal street follows the W. slope of the hilly peninsula, which extends to the S. between the Lake of Kaliki6poulo and the sea. This was probably the site of the ancient town, the principal commercial harbour of which was formed by the Bay of Kastrades, while the lake of Kalikiopoulo, now silted up, seems to have been the ancient Hyllaean Harbour, used as a station for vessels of war. The street, which is much frequented on fine evenings, is flanked by rose and. orange gardens, and farther on by beautiful olive groves. It ends, about 2 M. from the Esplanade, in a circular space, named the Canone, or One-gun Battery, commanding a beautiful *View of the E. coast.

Opposite the entrance to the old Hyllsean harbour lies the islet of Pondikonisi (mouse-island) , said to be the Phseacian ship , which had brought Ulysses to Ithaca and was afterwards converted into stone by Poseidon. The mouth of a brook on the S.W. side of Lake Kalikiopoulo, which is called Kressida, is pointed out as the place where Ulysses was cast ashore and met the princess Nausicaa.

Several charming *Excursions may be made from the capital into the interior of the island, which, thanks to the English admin- istration , is almost everywhere traversed by good carriage-roads.

To the South. — To the Monte S. Deca (1860 ft.), Greek Hagi Deka, by carriage (15 fr. ; there and back 6hrs.). "We drive to the village of the same name at the foot of the hill, and then ascend with a guide to the top in 1 hour. Splendid panorama, especially of the Albanian coast. We descend by a rough goat-path to (lhr.) Epano-Oarouna and thence walk to (^hr.) S. Teddoro or Hagios Theddoros, where the carriage should be ordered to meet us (to Corfu a drive of l1^ hr.). — To Oasturi and Benizza, about 11 M., by carriage (15 fr.) in 2i/2 hrs. The road skirts the lake of Kalikiopoulo and then ascends in windings to (O'/jM.) Oasturi, a prettily situated village, with the magnificent Villa Achilleion, be- longing to the Empress of Austria. Fine view from the church above. Thence we descend in windings (myrtles numerous) to (l3/4 M.) Benizza. Wear the priest's house are the well-preserved remains of a Roman villa in a line orange-grove, whose owner invites visitors to taste the fruit (fee 1-2 fr.). Close by is the source for the aque- duct of Corfu.

To the West. — To Pelleka (there and back in 31/2-4 hrs., carr. 12 fr.) and the W. coast of the island. On leaving the carr- iage we engage a boy to guide us to the top of the hill (890 ft.),

CORFU. 43. Route. 391

whence an admirable view is enjoyed, very beautiful towards sunset.

To the North. — To Oovino, with the remains of a Venetian arsenal, situated on a beautiful bay. We go via Alipoii and return by Potamb, an exquisite drive of 2'/2-3 hrs. (carr. 8-10 fr.).

To Palaokastrizza, a whole day, carriage 25 fr., a very pleasant road with beautiful views. About halfway to Palseokastrizza, near the Bridge of Pheleka, the road to the N. part of the island diverges from that leading to Govino (p. 390), and crosses the highest range of hills in the island by the Pass of S. Pantaleone. To the right towers the Monte S. Salvatore, Greek Pantokrator (2990 ft. ; ascent from Olyphb, the landing-station for the high-lying village of Signes). The monastery of Palceokastrizza lies on a rock in a bay on the "W. side of the island, and commands an admirable view of the coast and the beautiful blue sea.

For a more detailed account of Corfu, see Baedeker's Handbook to Greece,

List

of the most important Artists mentioned in the Handbook , with a note of the schools to which they belong.

Abbreviations : A. = architect , P. = painter, S. = sculptor ; ca. = circa, about; B. = Bolognese, Flor. = Florentine, Ferr. = Ferrarese, Mess. = Messinese, Neap. = Neapolitan, Rom. = Roman, etc.

The Arabic numerals enclosed within brackets refer to the art-notices throughout the Handbook, the Roman figures to the Introduction.

Aetion, Greek P., 2nd cent. A. D. —

(xl). Ainimolo, Vincenzo diPavia ( Vine. Ro- mano), Palerm. P., d. 1540. — (245). Alibrando, Girol., Mess. P., 1470-1524. Allegri, Ant., see Correggio. Amerighi, see Caravaggio, Mich. Angelico da Fiesole, Fra Giov., Flor.

P., 1387-1455. Apelles, Greek P., 356-308 B. C. —

(xxxix). Apollodorus , Greek P., end of 5th

cent. B. C. — (xxxviii). Apollonius of Tralles, Greek S.,

brother of Tauriseus. — (xxxvi). Aquila, Silvestro dell\ S., 15th cent. — , Pomp to , d\ P., second half of

16th cent. Aristides, Greek P., 370-330 B. C. —

(xxxix). Amolfo del (di) C'ambio, see Cambio. Arpino, Cavalier e <T (Gius. Cesari),

Rom. P., ca. 1560-1640. Auria, Bom. d', Neap. S., pupil of

Giov. da Nola, d. 1585. Baboceio, Ant., Neap. S., A., 1351- ca.

1415. Barbieri, see Guercino. Barisano, bronze - founder , end of

12th cent. Bartolommeo della Porta, Fra, Flor.

P., 1475-1517. Bassano, Jacopo (da Ponte), Ven. P.,

1510-92. — , Leandro (da Ponte) , son of Ja- copo, Ven. P., 1558-1623. Bazzi, Giov. Ant., see Sodoma. Bellini, Gentile, brother of Giovanni,

Ven. P., 1421-1507. — , Giovanni, Ven. P., 1426-1516. Belotti, Bern., see Canaletto. Beltraffio, see Boltraffio. Bernardi, Giov., da Castelbolognese,

Bol. goldsmith, d. 1554.

Bernini Giov. Lorenzo, Rom. A., S.,

1589-1680. Bigordi, see Ghirlandajo. Bol, Ferd., Dutch P., 1611-81. Boltraffio (Beltraffio), Giov. Ant,

Mil. P., pupil of Leonardo da Vinci,

1467-1516. Bonannus, Pisan A., S., end of 12th

cent. Bonito, Nice, Rom. P., 18th cent. Bonvicino, see Moretlo. Botticelli, Aless. or Sandro, Flor. P.,

1446-1510. Bronzino, Angelo, Flor. P., 1502-72. Brueghel, Pieter, the Elder, Flemish

P., 1520-69. Buonarroti, see Michael Angelo. Buono (Buoni), Silvestro, Neap. P.,

d. 1480. Calabrese, il (Matteo Preti), Neap.

P., 1613-09. Caliari, Paolo, see Veronese. Cambiaso ,Luca, GenoveseP., 1527-85. Cambio, Amolfo del (di), Flor. A.,

S., 1240-1311. — (xlix). Camilliani (Camillani), Flor. S., end

of lbth cent. Camuccini, Vine, Rom. P., 1773-1844. Camulio, Bartol. da, Sicil. P., 14th

cent. Canaletto (Bern. Belotti), Ven. P.,

1724-80. Canova, Antonio, S., 1757-1832. Cappuccino Genovese, see Strozzi. Caracci, see Carracci. Caracciolo, Giov. Ball. (sum. Bat-

tistello), Neap. P., d. 1641. — (1). Caravaggio, Michael Angelo Amerighi

da, Lomb. and Rom. P., 1569-1609. — , Polidoro Caldara da, Rom. P.,

1495-1543. — (1). Carracci, Annibale, Bol. P., 1560-

1609. — , Lodovico, Bol. P., 1555-1619.

LIST OF ARTISTS.

393

Cavallini, Pietro, Rom. P., 14th cent.

— (xlix).

Celebrano, Franc, Neap. S., 18th

cent. Cellini, Benvenuto, Flor. S. and gold- smith, 1500-72. Ciccione, Andrea, Neap. A., S., d.

1457. Claude le Lorrain (GelUe), French

P., 1600-82. Conca, Seb., Neap. P., 1679-1764. Conradini (Corrad.), Ant., S., d.

1752. Corenzio, Belisario, P. , 1558-1643. — (1). Cornelissen, Jacob, Dutch P., 1516th.

cent. — (266). Correggio (Antonio Allegri da), Parm.

P., 1494?-1534. Corso, Vine, Neap. P., d. 1545. Cosmati, Rom. family of stone-

mosaicists, 13th cent. Cranach, Luc, German P. 1472-

1553. Credi, Lorenzo di, Flor. P., 1459-1537. Crescenzio, Ant., Sicil. P., first half

of 15th cent. — (259). Criscuolo, Giov. Fil., Neap. P., 1495-

1584. Critios, Greek S., 5th cent. B. C. —

(xxxiii). Crivelli, Carlo, Yen. P., ca. 1468-93. Dolci, Carlo, Flor. P., 1616-86. Domenichino (Domenico Zampieri),

Bol. P., A., 1581-1641. — (1). Donatello (Donato di Niccolb di Betti

Bardi), Flor. S., 1386-1466. Donzello, Piero and Ippol, Neap. P.,

alleged pupils of Zingaro , 15th

cent. — (xlix). barer, Albr., German P., 1471-1528. Dyck, Ant. van, Flem. P., 1599-1641. Buphranor, Greek S., P., 375-335 B. C.

— (xxxix).

Eyck, Hubert van, Flemish P., born

ca. 1360-70, d. ca. 1426. — , Jan van, Flemish P., born ca.

1381-95, d. 1440. Fabriano, Gentile da, Umbr. P.,

1370-1450. Falcone, Aniello, Neap. P., 1600-1665.

-(1). Fansaga, Cosimo, P., S., A., 1591-1678. Fiesole, Fra Giovanni Angelico da,

see Angelico. Finoglia, Paolo Bom., Neap. P., d.

1656. Fiore, Agnetlo del, Neap. S., d. ca.

1500. — , Colantonio del (Nice. Tomasi), P.,

14th cent. _„ 4an.

Fontana, Dom., Rom. A., 1543-1807. Fontana, Lavinia, Bol. P., 1552-1602. Franco, Agnolo, Neap. P., d. ca. 1440.

Fuccio, A., first half of 13th cent. Fuga, Fernando, Rom. A., 1699-1780. Gabriele a" Agnolo, Neap. A., ca. 1496. Gaetano, Scipione , Neap. P., 16th

cent. Gagini (Gaggini), Ant., Sicil. S.,

born 1480, and sons. — (245). Gargiulo, Dom., sum. Micco Spadaro,

Neap. P., 1612-79. Garofalo (Benvenuto Tisio) , Ferr.

P., 1481-1559. Ghirlandajo, Dom. (Dom. Bigordi),

Flor. P., 1449-94. Giordano, Luca, surn. Fa Presto,

Neap. P., ca. 1632-1705. — (1). Giotto (di Bondone), Flor. P., A., S.,

1276-1337. — (xlix). Guercino, il (Giov. Franc. Barbieri),

Bol. P., 1590-1666. Hackert, Phil., German P., 1737-1807. Hayez, Franc, Ital. P., born 1791. Kaufmann, Maria Angelica, German

P., 1741-1807. Lama, Gian Bernardo, Neap. P.,

1508-79. Lanfranco, Giov., Lomb. and Rom.

P., 1580?-1647. Leonardo da Vinci, P., S., A., 1452-

1519. Lotto, Lorenzo, Ven. P., 1480?-1554? Lucas van Leyden (Luca d'Olanda),

Dutch P., 1494-1533. Luini, Bernardino, Mil. P., 14707-

1530?. Maglione, Flor. P., S., second half

of 13th cent. Majano, Benedetto da, Flor. A., S.,

1442-97. — , Giuliano da, Flor. A., 1432-90. Mantegna, Andrea, Pad. P., 1431-1506. Masuccio the Elder, Neap. A., S., ca.

1230-1305. — , the Younger, Neap. A., S., ca.

1291-1388. Mazzoni, Guido (il Modanino), Mod.

S d 1518 Mazzuola, Fil., Parm. P., d. 1505. — , Franc, see Parmigianino. Mengs, Anl. Raphael, P., 1728-79. Merliano, Giov., see Nola,_ Giov. da. Messina, Antonello da, Sicil. P., b.

after i410, d. ca. 1493. — (245). Michael Angelo Buonarroti , A., S.,

P., 1475-1564. Michelozzo, Flor. A., S., 1391-1472. Mignard, Pierre, French P., 1612-95. Modanino, see Mazzoni. Monrealese, see Novelli, Pietro, Montorsoli, Fra Giov. Ang., Flor. S.,

ca. 1506-63. Moretto da Brescia (Alessandro Bon- vicini or Bonvicino), Ven. P., 1498- 1555.

394

LIST OF ARTISTS.

Murano, Bartol. da, see Yivarini. Nesiotes, Greek S., 5th cent. B. C. —

(xxxiii). Nicias, Greek P., ca. 348-308 B. C.

— (xxxix).

Nicomachus, Greek P., about 400

B. C. — (xxxix). Nola, Giov. da (Giov. Merliano),

Neap. S., 1478-1559. Novelli, Pietro (il Monrealese), Sicil.

P., 1603-47. — (245). Palma Vecchio, Giac, Ven. P., 1480-

1528. Pannini, Giov. Paolo, Bom. P., 1695-

1768. Papa, Simone, the Elder, Neap. P.,

15th cent. — (xlix). — , Sim., the Younger, Neap. P.,

1506-67. Parmeggiano or Parmigianino

(Francesco Mazzuola), Parm. P.,

1503-40. Parrhasius , Greek P., end of 5th

cent. B. C. — (xxxviii). Pasiteles, Greco-Rom. S., 72-48 B. C.

— (xxxvi).

Pausias, Greek P., 4th cent. B. C.

— (xxxix).

Pauson , Greek P., about 400 B. C.

(xxxiii). Perugino, Pietro (Pietro Vannucci),

Umbr. P., 1446-1524. Phidias, Greek S., 500-430 B. C. Pinturicchio, Bern., Umbr. P., 1454-

1513. Piombo, Sebasl. del, see Sebastiano. Pippi, see Romano. Pisano, Giov., Pis. A., 8., son of

Niccolo, d. 1320. — , Mccola(b), Pis. A., S., d. 1278. Polidoro, see Caravaggio. Polycletus, Greek S., 5th cent. B. C.

__ ("xxxiv} Polygnotus, Greek P., 480-30 B. C. —

— (xxxvii).

Pontormo, Jac. (Carrucci) da, Flor.

P., 1494-1557. Porta, Bart, delta, see Bartolommeo. — , Guglielmo delta, Lomb. S., d. 1577. Praxiteles, Greek S., about 364 B. C. Prete Genovese, see Strozzi. Preti, Matteo, see Calabrese. Puligo, Bom., Flor. P., 1475-1527. Queirolo, Ant., S., 18th cent. Raphael Santi da Vrbino, P., A.,

1483-1520. Rembrandt Harmensz van Rijn, Dutch

P., 1607-69. Reni, Ouido, Bol. P., 1574-1642. Ribera, see Spagnoletto. Robusti, see Tintoretto. Romanelli, Giov. Franc., P., ca. 1610-

62.

Romano, Giulio (G. Pippi), Bom. P.,

A., 1492-1546. Rosa, Salvator, Neap. P., 1615-73. —

(!)• Rossellino, Ant., Flor. S., A., b. 1427,

d. ca. 1478. Rubens, Petrus Paulus, Flemish P.,

1577-1640. Ruzulone, Pietro, Sicil. P., 15th cent.

— (245). Sabattini, Andr., see Salerno, Andr.

da. Salerno, Andrea da (Andr. Sabattini),

Neap. P., follower of Raphael,

1480-1545. — (1). Saliba, Antonello da, Sicil. P., 15th

cent. — (245). Sammartino , Gius., Neap. S., 1728-

1800. Sanctis, Giac. de, Neap. A., d. 1543. Sangallo, Francesco da, son of Giu-

liano da S., Flor. S., 1497-1575. Santacroce, Girol. (da), Ven. P., ca.

1520-49. Santafede, Fabrizio, Neap. P., 1560-

1634. — , Francesco, Neap. P., father of

Fabrizio, 16th cent. Sarto, Andrea del, Flor. P., 1487-1531. Sassoferrato (Giov. Bait. Salvi), Rom.

P., 1605-85. Schidone, Bart., Mod. P., d. 1615. Scilla, Agost., Sicil. P., 1639-1700. Sebastiano del Piombo, Ven. and

Rom. P., 1485-1547. Serpotta, Giacomo , Sicil. S., 1655-

1732. — (245). Sesto, Cesare da, Mil. P., pupil of

Leonardo da Vinci, d. after 1524. Siciliano, Giov. Bernardino, Neap. P.,

S., 1606-87. Siena, Marco da, P., A., second half

of 16th cent. — , Matteo da, P., middle of 16th cent. Simone di Martino (Sim. Martini),

Sien. P., 1283-1344. — (xlix). Sddoma, il (Giov. Ant. Bazzi), Sien.

and Lomb. P., ca. 1473-1549. Solario, Ant., see Zingaro. Solimena, Franc, (sum. Abbale Ciccio)

Neap. P., 1657-1747. Spada, Lionello, Bol. P., 1556-1622. Spagnoletto (Gius. Ribera), Span.-

Neap. P., 1588-1656. — (1). Stanzioni, Massimo, Neap. P., 1585-

1656. — (1). Slefani, Pietro degli, Neap. S., P.,

b. 1228, d. after 1318. — , Tommaso degli, Neap. P., 1231-

1310. Strozzi, Bernardo (il Cappuccino or

il Prete Genovese), Genovese P.,

1581-1644.

LIST OF ARTISTS.

395

Tauriscusof Tralles, Greek S., brother of Apollonius. — (xxxvi).

Thorvaldsen, Bertel, Danish S., 1770- 1844.

Timantkes, Greek P., about 400 B.C.

— (xxxix).

Timomachus, Greek P., about 300B. C.

- (xl).

Tintoretto, il (Jac. Roousti), Ven. P., 1518-94.

Tisio, Benven., see Garofalo.

Titian (Tiziano Vecellio da Cadore), Ven. P., 1477-1575

Traversa (ChaHes Franc, de la Tra- verse), French P., d. 1778.

Vaccaro, Andrea, Neap. P., 1598-1670.

Vannucci, Pietro, see Perugino.

Vanvilelli, Luigi, A., 1700-73.

Vasari, Giorgio, Flor. P., A., and writer on art, 1512-74.

Vecellio, Tiziano, see Titian. Velazquez (Diego V. de Silva), Span.

P., 1599-1660. Venusli,Marcello, P., pupil of Michael

Angelo, d. ca. 1570. Veronese , Paolo (P. Caliari), Ven.

P., 1528-88. Vigilia, Tommaso di, Sicil. P., pupil of Ant. Crescenzio, 15th cent. — (245). Vincenzo di Pavia, see Ainemolo. Vinci, Leonardo da, see Leonardo. Vivarini, Alwise (or Luigi), Ven. P.,

ca. 1464-1503. — , Bart. (Bart, da Murano), Ven.

P., ca. 1450-99. Zampieri, see Domenichino. Zeuxis, Greek P., 4th cent. B. C. —

(xxxviii). Zingaro, lo (Ant. Solario), Neap. P., ca. 1382-1455. — (xlix).

INDEX.

^.bacaenum 312. Abbadiazza 321. Abbasanta 372. Abella 174. Abettintim 175. Abruzzi, the 176. Acciano 181. Acerenza 209. Acerra 10. Acerrae 10. Acherontia 195. 209. Acherusian Lake 102. Aci Castello 332. Aci, Isola <T 332. Acireale 245. 332. Aciris 213. Acithis 285.

— Acqua Dolce 310. Acquasanta 268. Acquaviva delle Fonti

200.

Platani 292.

Acme 234. 3U6.

Acragas 234. 293.

Acri 219.

Acrocoro della Torre 307.

Adernd 335.

.Egadian Islands 226. 287.

jEgimures 380.

jEnaria 105.

^Eolian Islands 323.

JZsemia 185.

.Etna, Mount 341. 228.

^tna 335.

S. Agata, near Sorrento

151.

— de' Goti 204.

— del Militello 310. Agathyrnum 233. Ager Falernus 18.

— Taurianus 220. Agerola 146. Agira 233. 301. Agnano, Lago d1 92. S. Agnello 147. Agno, the 10. Agnone 349. Agosta 350.

Agri, river 208. 213. Agrigentum 293.

Agropoli 166.

Agyrium 233. 301.

Aielli 184.

Alabon 350.

Alaesa 310.

Alanno 186.

Alaro 216.

Alatri 2.

Alba Fucensis 182.

Albanella 166.

Albano 11.

— di Lucania 209.

Albe 182.

Alberi 152.

Alburnus 207.

Alcamo 277.

Alcantara, river 228. 331

333. 350. Alento, river 191. Alessano 203. S. Alessio, Capo 326. Alesus 310. Aletrium 2. Alezio 202. S. Alfio 331. Alghero 374. All 326. Alia 292. Alicata 303. Alicuri 325. Alimena 291. Alipou 390.

Altarello di Baida 272. Altavilla 175. 290. Altilia 192. Alto Campana 181. Aluntium 233. 310. Amalfi 169. Amantea 224. Amantia 224. Amaro, Monte 185. 191. Amaseno, river 12. Amenamis, river 340. Amendola 193. Amendolara 214. Amendolea 217. Amestralus 310. Amiternum 180. Amorosi 204. Amyclae 15.

Anacapri 157.

Anagni 1.

Anagnia 2.

Analipsis 390.

Anapus, river 364.

Anazzo 200.

Ancona 176.

S. Andrea 216.

— , Monte 15.

Andria 196.

S. Angelo, Castel 177.

— , Monastery 174.

— , Monte, near Terracina

14. — , — , Lipari 323. 324. — , — , the Little 151. — , — , near Manfredonia

193. — , — , near Sorrento 145. — in Formis 9. Angri 160. S. Annunziata (Eavello)

172. Antas, Temple of 371. Antenna, Pizzo 226. 309. Antennamare 321. Antignano 89. S. Antimo 203. Antinum 187. S. Antioco 365. 371. S. Antonio 332. Antrodoco 177. Antrosano 182. Vntullo, Pozzo d' 2. Anversa 184. Anxanum 191. Anxur 13. Aouina, El 381. Apennines, the 176. 177. Apice 206. Apollonia 310. Appula 200. Apricena 192. Aqua Cornelia 290. Aquae Cutiliae 177. Aquila 178. Aquino 3. Aquinum 3. Aragona 292. 299. Aranci, Fiumara degli 312.

INDEX.

397

Aranci, Golfo degli 373. Arancia, Fiumara 312. Arbore 152. Arce 18S. Archi-Eeggio 223. Arco, the 146. Arco Felice 103.

— Naturale 156. Ardara 373. Ardore 217. Arena Bianca 220. Ariano di Puglia 206. Arienzo 10.

Aritzo 376. 372.

Armi, Capo dell' 217.

Armstrong, Cantiere 97.

Arpaia 10. .

Arpi 193.

Arpinas, Insula 187.

Arpino 188.

Arpinum 188.

Arsoli 181.

Artemisio, Monte 11.

Artena 11.

Artesino, Monte 300.

Arx Volscorum 194.

Asaro, 233.

Ascensione, Monte dell'

189. . Ascoli Piceno 189. -, Porto d1 189. 190.

— Satriano 194. Asculum Picenum 189. Asinara 365. Asinarus 306. Asinello 285.

Aso, brook 189.

Aspra 276.

Aspromonte, Mt. 218. 217.

222. 224. Assaro 301. Assemini 371. Assergi 180. Assorus 233. 301. Astore, Monte 221. Astroni 93. Atella 203. 209. Atena 207.

Aterno, river 178. 180. 190. Atina 207. Atrani 169. — , valley of 171. Atri 190.

Atrio del Cavallo 113 Atripalda 175. Aufidus 194. 207. Augusta 350. Auletta 207. Auricarre 199. Ausculum Apulum 194. Avella 174. Avellino 175. Avernus Lacus 98.

Aversa 203. Avezzano 182. Avigliano 209. Avola 306.

Bacoli 100.

Badia di S. Spirito 185.

299. Badofato 216. Bagaria or Bagheria 275. Bagnara 222. Bagni di Nerone 98. Bagno d'Ischia 106,

— del Purgatorio 118.

— delta Regina Gio- vanna 149.

Bagnoli 93.

Bagnolo del Salento 203.

Bahira, El 381.

Baiae 99.

Baiano 174.

Baida 273.

Baja 99.

Balensul 306.

Balestrate 277.

Balsorano 187.

Balvano 208.

Balzo di Trifoglietto

348. Bambina 283. Bantia 195.

Banzi, Abbadia de' 195. Baragiano 208. Baranica 151. Barano 108. Baranello 192. Barbagia, la 376. Barbaro, Monte 279. Barbarossa, Castello di

157. Barcellona 312. S. Bardiglio 370. Bardo, the 384. Bari 198. — , Terra di 176. Barium 198. Barletta 196. Baronisi 165. Barra, La 112. Barrafranca 302. Barrali 375.

Bartolommeo, river

277. Basento, river 208. Basilicata, the 176. £03. S. Basilio 200. Pisticci 213. Basiluzzo 325. Batinus 190. Battaglia 199. Battipaglia 165. 207. Baucina 289. Bauladu 372.

Baull 100.

Bauso 313.

Beffi 181.

Belice, river 288.

Bella 203.

Bellante 190.

Belmonte, in Calabria

224. — , near Palermo 274. Belpasso 335. Belvedere (Calabria) 223.

— (near Castellammare] 146.

— (near Syracuse) 360. Belvi 376.

S. Benedetto 184. 189. Benevento 204. Beneventum 205. Berchidda 373. Bernalda 209. S. Biagio, river 303. Biancavilla 335. Bianconuovo 217. Bicocca 302. 349. Bifarera 289. Biferno, river 192. Bilice, valley of the 298. Billiemi, Monti 276. Birgi, river 285. Birori 372. Bisacquino 289. Bisceglie 197. Bisignano 219. Bitetto 199. Bitonto 197. Bivona 221. Blandano 332. Blue Grotto 158. Boccadifalco 272. Boeo, Capo 226. 234. Boiano 185.

Bolognetta Marineo 289. Bon, Cape 380. 226. Bonea Grotto 162. Bonefro 191. Bonifato, Monte 277. Bonorva 373. Borgo 177. Borore 372. Bosa 365. 373. Bosco d'Acovia 10.

— di Calatafimi 279.

— de' Coronia 310.

— dell' Umbra 193. Boscoreale 10. Boscotrecase 118. Botricello 215. Botte, La 14. Boukournin, Mts. 380.387. Bou-Said 380.

Bova 217. Bovalino 217. Bove, Monte 182.

398

INDEX.

Bove, Valle del 348. Bovianum Undecimano-

rum 186. Bovino 206. Bradano, the 210. Brancaccio 274. Brancaleone 217. Brentesion 201. Brindisi 200.

Montagna 209.

Brolo, Fiumara 311. Bronte 334. Brucato 290. Brucoli 349.

Bruncu Spina, Punta 376. Brundisium 201. Brusciano 174. Buccino 203. Buffaloria 214. Buggeru365. Bugnara 184. Buonalbergo 206. Buonfornello 308. Buonpietro 291. Buraco, Monte 289. Burgio 289. Busambra 289. Buscemi 307. Busento, river 219. Bussi 186. Butera 303. Buttigliara 357.

Cabras 372. Caccamo 291. Gacyparis 306. Cagliari 368. — , Stagno di 368. Caianello 6. 186. Caiazzo 10. Caieta 17. Cairo, Monte 6. Calabria 200. 176. Calabrian Mts. 223. Calacte 310. Calascibetta 300. Calatabiano 331. Calatafimi 277. Calava, prom. 311. 227. Calciano 209. Caldare 292. 299. Gales 7. CaUipolis 203. S. Calogero, Monte, near

Sciacca 288. — , Lipari 324. — , Termini 291. Calore, river 204. Caltabelotta 289. — , river 289. (altagirone 302. Caltanissetta 227. 299. Caltavuturo 291.

Calvello, Monte 11. Calvi 7.

Calvo, Monte 177. 193. Camaldoli near Naples SO.

— dell' Avvocata 168.

— di Meta 152. della Torre 111.

Camaldolilli 90. Camarana, river 304. Camarda 180. Camarina 234. 304. Camerelle, the 155. Camastra, river 209. Cammarata 292. 208. Campana 214. Campanaro, Monte 298. Campanella, Punta di 150

223. Campania 7. Campeda, la 373. Campi Geloi 304.

— Laestrigonii 348.

— Palentini 182. Campidano 370. 371. Campo Bianco 324.

— di Giove 185. Pericoli 180.

Campobasso 191. Campobello 283. 299. Campofeliee 308. Campofiorito 289. Campofranco 292. Campolattaro 192. Campolieto 191. Caiupomaggiore 209. Campomarino 192. Campomela 374. Camposano 174. Cancello 10. Candela 194. Canicatti 299. Caniga 374. Cannae 196. Cannita 276. Cannitello 222. Cannizzaro 332. Cannole 203. Canosa 196. Cantone, Fiumara 312. Canusium 196. Canzano 190. Capaccio Nuovo 166.

— Vecchio 166. Capaci 277. Capistrello 187. Capitanata, the 176. 192 Capo, Lo (Capri) 156.223 Capo Bianco 290.

di Conca 173. di Gallo 224.

— Figari 373.

— Nao 215.

— d'Orlando 146. 311.

Capo d'Orso 168,

— Soprano 304. di Sorrento 149. Sottile 173.

— Tumolo 168. Capodimonte, near Na- ples 81.

-, near Sorrento 149. Caposele, Villa 16. Cappelle 182. Cappelliere 289. Capreae 154. Caprera 365. Capri 152. 155. Caprile 157. Capua 7. Capurso 199. Caralis 368. Carbonara, Capo 368. Carceri di Nerone 100. Cardellieri, Monte 289. Cardito, Monte 190. Cariati 214. Carini 277. Carinola 18. Carlentini 349. Carloforte 371. Caronia 310. Carotto 147. 152. Carovigno 200. Carpanzano 220. Carpineto 2. Carrito Ortona 184. Carrubia 331. Carseoli Ibl. Carsoli 181. Oartellemi 335. Carthage 385. 381. Carthagine, Cape 386.

380. Casa del Bosco 346.

— Inglese 346. Casacalenda 191. Casaferro 174. Casalbordino 191. Casalbuono 208. Casalduni 204. Casalnuovo 10. 174. Casamicciola 106. Cascano 18. Cascia 177. Caserta 9. 204.

— Vecchia 10. Casilinum 7. Casino Chiriaco 221. Casinum 4. Casmenae 234. 306. Casoria 203. Cassano 200. 218. Cassaro 292. 307. Cassibile 306.

— , river 306. Cassino 3.

INDEX.

399

Caasino, Monte 5. Castagna, Capo 324. Castanea 321. Castel S. Angelo 177.

— Fiorentino 194.

— S. Giorgio 175.

— di Lama 189.

— di Sangro 185.

— Termini 292.

— di Tusa 310. Casteldaccia 290. Castella, Capo 216. Castellalto 190. Castellammare Adriatico

190. 187.

— del Golfo (Sicily) 277.

— di Stabia (near Sor- rento) 144.

Castellaneta 200. Castello diBarbarossal57.

— di Cisterno 174.

— di Mare Dolce 274.

— del Monte 197.

— in Parco 161.

— di Schiso 331. Castelluccio 208. Castelvetere 216. Castelvetrano 279. Castiglione 333. — , Monte 155. Castro 203. Castrocucco 16!). 207. Castrofilippo 299. Castrogiovanni 227. 299. Castronovo 292. Castroreale 312. Castrovillari 208. 219. Castrum Miwervae 203.

— Novum 190. S. Cataldo 299. Catalfano, Monte 224. 275. Catana 233.

Catania 336.

— , Piano di 348.

Catanzaro 215.

Catena del Marghine 373.

Catenanuova 301.

S. Caterina, near Eeggic

223. — , Sicily 299. — , near Squillace 216. Catona 223. S. Cattaldo, Castello di

202. Caudine Forks 10. 204 Caudium 10. Caulonia 216. Cava, dei Tirreni 161. Cavaliere lbl. Cavallino 202. Cavone, river 213. Ceccano 2. Cecchina 11.

Cedrinus 376. Cefala-Diana 289. Cefalone, Pizzo 180. Cefalu 309. Celano 184. Cellole Fasani 18. Cento Camerelle 100. Centorbi 301. Centuripe 233. 301. Cephaloedium 309. Ceprano 3. Gercatae 188. Cerchio 184. Cerda 291. Cerignola 195. Cerreto 204.

Cerrila, Bosco della 343. Certosa, the (Capri) 155.

— (nearMileto) 221.

— di S. Lorenzo 207. Cervaro 6. 194. 207. — , river 206. Cervico 219. Cesarano 151. Cetara 168.

Cetraro 223. Charybdis 222. 322. Chiajolella 105. Chianche 175. Chiatona 210. Chiazza 302. Chienti, river 189. Chieti 186. Chieuti 192. Chilivani 373. Chirica, Monte 324. Chiunzo, Monte 160. Chiusa-Sclatani 289. Choerades 211. Chrysas 301. Ciampino 1. Cicala 174. Cicci, Monte 321. Cicciano 174. Cicero's Tomb 16.

Villa 16. Ciclopi, Scogli dei 332. Cimiti, Capo delle 216. Cimitile 174. Cineto 181. Cinisi 277. Cinquemiglia, Piano di

195. Cintaria, la 286. Ciocca 374. Circeii 14. Circeo or Circello, Monte

or Promontorio 14. 11. Ciro 214.

S. Ciro, Grotta di 274. Cisterna 11. Cisternino 200. Citta Santangelo 190.

Citta. Vecchia 379. Cittaducale 177. Cittanova 217. Civita d'Antino 187. ■ — Lavinia 11. Civitanova 189. Civitella Roveto 187. Clanius 10. S. Clemente di Casauria

186. Cocullo 184. Cocuzzo, Monte 220. 224. Codola 161. 175. CogMnas 365. Collarmele 184. Colles Leucogaei 95. Collesano 308. Colli 182. 189. Colonne, Capo delle 215. Comino 379. 377. Comiso 305. Comitini 292. 299. Conca, Capo di 173.

, Gorge of 149. Conca d'Oro, la 249. Concazze, Serra delle 348. Concilio, Monte 345. Conero, Mte. 176. S. Cono 302. Consenlia 219. Consiliana 207. Contessa 289. Conti delle Fontanelle

157.

— di Geremenna 152. Contigliano 177. Contursi 207. Conversano 200. Copiae 214. Coppola, Monte 145. Cora 11.

Corace, river 220.

Coraci 220.

Corato 197.

Corcyra 388.

Corfinium 186.

Corfu 387.

Cori 11.

Corigliano Calabro 214.

— d'Otranto 203. Corleone 289. Corno, Monte 180. Cornus 372. Coroglio, Capo 88. Corpo di Cava 162. Correboi, Col di 376. Correo 321. Corsari 289.

Cosa 219.

Coscile, river 208. 219.

Cosenza 219.

S. S. Corma 18.

Cossyra 380.

400

INDEX.

S. Costanzo, Mte. 150. Cotrone 215. Crapolla 150. Crathis 219. Crati, river 214. 219. Cretaro, Monte 146. Crimiti, Monte 357. S. Croce 304. — , Capo 350.

— del Sannio 192.

— (Mt. Vesuvius) 118. Crocelle di Agrifoglio,

Le 220. Cropani 215. Croton 215. Crucoli 214. Cuba, La 270. Cuccio, Monte 224. Culatrello 307. Culmine 371. Cumae 102. 30. Cunano, Monte 335. Cupersanum 200. Cupra Marittima 189. Culiliae, Lacus 177. Curro, Monte 184. Cutro 216. Cutto, Monte 335. Cyane Brook, 364. Cyclopean Islands 332. Cyme 102.

Damecuta 157.

Damiano Castelforte 18.

Damusi 336.

S. Deca, Mte 390.

Decima, Fiumara 330.

Decimomannu 371.

Delia 299.

— , river 283.

S. Demetrio ne' Vestini

181. Deserto 151. Desulo 376. Diamante 223. Dicaearchia 94. Dicaeopolis 278. Didyme 325. Dittaino, river 301. Djamur 380. Djebel-Khaoui 386. Djebel-Resas,Mts3S0.387. S. Domenico Soriano 221. Donna Beatrice 289. Donori 375. Drepana 285. Duchessa, La 365. Due Fratelli 168. Dugenta 204. Durillo, river 304.

Eboli 207.

St. Efisio, Church 371.

Egesta 278.

Egnatia 200.

Eknomos 303.

Eleutherus 276.

S. Elia 191. 276.

— , Capo 368. 370.

— , Monte 222.

Elmas 371.

S. Elpidio 189.

Enguium 291.

Enna 227. 300.

Ennas 373.

Entella 233. 289.

Epano 390.

Epitaffio, Punta dell' 98.

Epomeo, Monte 108.105.

Epomeus 105.

Epopevs 105.

Erbe Bianche 336.

Erbessus 299.

Eremitaggio di Trapani

321. Ericusa 325. Erikousi 387. Eryx 227. 233. 286. Etna, see ^Etna. S. Eufemia 220. — , Golfo di 224. Euonymus 325.

'Eabrateria nova 3. — veins 2. Fagnano 181. Faito, Monte 145. Falconara 303.

, river 306. Falconaria 285. Falcone 312. Falconiera, Monte 276. Falernus, Ager 18. Falsomiele 273. Fano Adriano 190. Faraglioni 155. 332. Farina, Cape 380. Faro 322. Fasano 200. Favara 303. — , La 274. Favarotta 299. 302. Favazzina 222. Favignana 285. Favorita , la , Portici

112. — , near Palermo 269. S. Felice 10. d. Ferdinando 326. Ferentino 2. Ferentinum 2. Ferentum 195. Ferla 307. Fermo 189. Ferrandina 209. Ferru, Monte 372.

Fibrenus, river 187.

Ficarazzelli 275.

Fiearazzi 275.

Ficuzza 289.

Figlino 160.

Filicuri 325.

S. Filippo d'Argiro 301.

Finale 310.

Finisterra , promontory

203. Firmum Picenum 189. Fiumara, river 195. Fiume Caldo 277.

— Freddo 224. 277. 331.

— Grande 226. 291. 308.

— Salso 226. 299. 303.

— Torto 291. 308. S. Flavia 275. 290. S. Flaviano 190. Floridia 307. Flumendosa 365. Foggia 192. Fondi 15.

Fonni 376.

Pons Bandusiae 195.

Fontana 108. 213.

— Congiada 376.

— Grande 195.

— Vecchia 330/331. Fontanamela 376. Fontanarosa 193. Fontane 188. Fontecchio 181. Pontes Leucogaei 95. Fordungianus 372. Forenza 195. Forio 107.

Forli 185. Formia 16. Formiae 16. Fornacelle 152. Forno, II 101. Fortore, river 192. Forum Popilii 207.

— Trajani 372.

— Vulcani 95. Forza 326. Fossacesia 191. Fossanuova 13. Fragneto 192. Francavilla 191. 213. 221. S. Franco, Monte 190. Francolisi 18.

Frasso 204. 13. S. Fratello 310. — , Fiumara 310. Frattamaggiore-Gruino

203. Fratte 165. Frattocchie 11. Fregellae 3. Frento 192. Frosinone 2.

INDEX.

401

Frumento, Monte 344. Frusino 2.

Fucino, Lago di 182. Fundi 15. Fuorigrotta 86. 92. Fwculae Caudinae 10.

2U4. Furiano, Fiumara di 310. Furore 173. Fusaro, Lago del 102. Fuscaldo 223.

Gaeta 17.

Gaggera, river 278. Gagliano 301. Galati 326. Galatina 202. Galatone 202. Galdo 207. Galli, 1 173. Gallico 223. Gallinella, river 277. Gallipoli 202. 203. Gallo, Capo di 224. Gangi 291. Garaguso 209. Gargano, Monte 176. 192. Garigliano, river 3. 18. Garofalo, the 322. Garouna 390. Gaulos 379. S. Gavino 371. Gavoi 376. Gela 234. 301. Gela, river 304. Gemellaro, Monte 345. Gemini, Monte 292. Generosa, La 291. Gennargentu, Mt. 365.

376. S. Gennaro, monastery

95. Gerace 216. Gerbini 302. S. Germano 4. — , Stufe di 92. Gesico 375. Gesso 313. S. Giacomo 214. Giampilieri 326. Giara, La 375. Giardinetto 206. Giardini 326. Giarre 331. Giarretta, river 349. Giave 373. Gibellina 279. Gibilmanna 309. Gibilrossa 274. Giganti, Grotta de', 274. Ginosa 210. Gioia Tauro 221. — del Colle 200.

Baedekek. Italy III.

Gioiosa Fonica 216. 311. S. Giorgio, near Avellmo

175. — , in Sardinia 375. — , in Sicily 313. S. Giovanni in Carico 3.

— in Fiori 220.

— e Paolo diCasamari 188.

— de Sinis 372.

— a Teduccio 108. 112.

— (Sardinia) 375. Giovenco 184. Giovinazzo 198. Girgenti 293.

Acropolis 294. Biblioteca Luccbesiana

298. Catacombs 29S. Cathedral 297. Cloacae of Pheeax 297. Fonte dei Greci 294. Gates 293. S. Giorgio 298. S. Gregorio delle Eape

295. Grotta de' Frangapani

295. Hippodrome 297. S. Maria dei Greci 297. Museum 298. S. Nicola 295. Oratory of Phalaris

295. Panitteri Garden 295. Passeggiata 298. Piscina 297. Porta Aurea 293.

— del Ponte 294. Purgatorio, Chiesa del

298. Rock of Athene 293 Rupe Atenea 298. Temple of iKsculapius

296.

— Castor and Pollux 296.

— Ceres and Proserpine 294.

— Concord 295.

— Hercules 295.

— Juno Lacinia 295.

— Jupiter Polieus 293.

— Vulcan 297.

— Zeus 296. Tomb of Theron 296. S. Vito 293.

Giuliana 289.

Giulianello 11

S. Giuliano del Sannio

192. — , Monte 286. 227. Giulianova 190. Giurdignano 203.

11th Edition.

S. Giuseppe 10.

Gizio, river 181.

Glypho 391.

Gnathia 200.

Gobbo, Rio 376.

Godrano 289.

Goletta 380.

Golfo degli Aranci 373.

Gonnesa 371.

Gorgo di Cotone 280.

Goriano 184.

Govino 390.

Gozzo 379. 377.

Gradelle, Punta 147.

Gragnano 143.

Grammichele 302.

Gran Sasso d'ltalia 180.

196. Grassano 209. Gratteri 309. Gravina 345. Grazia Vecchia 273. Greccio 2S7. Greci 206. S. Gregorio 217. Griffone, Monte 224. 274. Grotta, La 321. Grotta d'Averno 98. Azzurra 158. Bianca 159.

— del Bove 345.

— del Bove Marino 159. del Cane 92. di Collepardo 2.

— Dragonara 101.

— della Fata Donnavilla 312.

— del Fracasso 335.

— dei Giganti 274.

— di Mitromania 157.

— della Pace 103.

— della Sibilla 98. 103. 234.

— delle Stalattite 159.

— Verde 159. GrottagHo 213. Grottanmiare 189. Grotte, Le 299. Grottole 209. Grumentum 208. Grumo 200. Guardia 223.

, Monte di 323. Guglionesi 191. Gullo Valley 313. Gurnalunga , river 349. Gurrita 334. 228. S. Gusmano, river 350.

Kadranum 335. Halaesa 310. Halicyae 279. Halycus 289.

26

402

INDEX.

Hammani Lif 387. Hatria 190. Heirde 268. Belorus 306. Hemichara 291. Bephaestiades 323. Heraclea 213.

— Minoa 290. Ueracleia 109. Herculaneum 109. Berdonia 194. Hermitage (Mt. Vesuvius)

117. Bicesia 325. .ffieTO 321. Himella 182. Eimera 308. 234.

— Meridionalis 226. 291 299. 303.

— Septentrionalis226. 291 308.

Bipparis 304. Bipponion 221. Bistonium 191. ZfyWa Beraea 233. 305.

— Minor 335. Byccara 277. Bydruntum 203. flyAw 203. Hylleean Harbour 390.

Iglesias 371. S. llario 195. Imachara 291. Imele, river 182. Imera 299. Inarime 105. [nice, Monte 279. Insula Arpinat 187. Insulae Diomedeae 191. Interamna 190. [nterniesole, Pizzo d' 180, Interocrea 177. Interpromium 186. [rno 165. trpino 175. [schia 105. 106. [schitella 193. [scla 105. :sclero, the 204. isernia 185. Isili 375. ^sola Capo-Eizzuto 215.

- dAci 332.

- delle Femine 277.

- del Liri 188.

- Ferdinandea 289.

- Grande 284.

- Lunga 284.

- S. Paola 187.

- Salina 325. isoletta 3.

Ispica, Val d' 305. Itri 15.

Julian Aqueduct 100.

Kalikiopoulo, Lake 390, Kamart 386. Kardaki 390. Karthada 385. Kasr-Sad 276. Kheredine 381. Kkram 381. Konto Vouni 387. Kressida 390. Kyme 30.

Labieo 1. Lacco, Monte 107. Lacinian promontory215. Laconi 375. 376. Lactarii Monies 146. Lacus Acherusius 102.

— Arnyclanus 15.

— Avernus 98.

— Culiliae 177.

— Fucinus 182.

— Fundanus 15.

— Lucrinus 97.

— Niger 208.

— Palicorum 302. Laestrygonii, Gampi 348. Lagonegro 203. Lama, Castel di 189. Lamato, river 220. Lanciano 191. Landro, Fiumara 312. Lanuvium 11. Lao, river 208. Laos 209. Larino 191. Larinum 191. Lascari 309. Latiano 213. Lattarico 219. Lattaro, Mte. 146. Lauria 208. Lauro, Mte. 227. Lautulae 15. Lavello 194. Lavoro, Terra di 7. 15. Lazzaro 217. S. Lazzaro, Fort 146. 171 Leano, Monte 13. Lecce 202. Lentini 349. — , Lago di 349. S. Leonardo 193. 349. — , river 290. Leone 302. 349. Leonessa 177. Leonforte 301. Leontini 233. 349. Lepre, Monte o3o.

Lercara 227. 292.

Lesina, Lago di 192.

Lete Vivo, brook 189.

Letojanni 326.

Lettere 143.

Leuca 203.

Leuca, Promontory 203.

S. Leucio, Casino Eeale di 10.

Levanzo 285.

Liberatore, Monte 162.

Licata 228. 303.

Licatia 345.

Licosa, Promont. della 223.

Lilibeo, Capo 284.

Lilybaeum 284.

Linguaglossa 333.

— , Bosco di 343.

Liparaeae 323.

Lipari 323.

— Islands 226. 322.

Liris, river 3. 18. 182.

Lisca Bianca 325.

Locroi Epizephyrioi 216. 217.

Lone 171.

Longano 312.

Lontrano, ravine 207.

S. Lorenzo (near Pa- lermo) 276. , Certosa 207. Maggiore 204.

Loreto 175. 189.

S. Louis 381.

Lucania 176. 208.

Luce 214.

Lucera 193.

Luceria 193.

S. Lucia 212. 313.

S. Lucido 224.

Luco 183.

Lucrino 97.

Lucrinus, Lacus 97.

Lucus Angitiae 183.

Lumidoro 350.

Luparo, Monte 184.

Lupia 202.

Lusciano, Villa 97.

Lysimelia 364.

Wacara 290. Maccalubi 292. Macchia 186.

. La 344. Macomer 373. Macopsisa 373. Maddalena 365. Maddaloni 10. 204. Madonia Mts. 308. Madonna dell'Annunziata

— deir Autu 277.

INDEX.

403

Madonna del Capo 215.

— del Lauro 147.

— della Rocca 331.

— di Saccargia 374. Maenza 12. Magliano 182. Maglie 203. Magna Graecia 176. Magnisi 350. Maida 221.

Maiella, Mt. 176. 185.

191. Maiori 168. Maiorisi 18. Malaspina, Monte 325. Maletto 334. Maleventum 205. Malka, la 381. 385. Malta 377. Malvagna 333. Mamoiada 376. Mandas 375. Mandela 181. Manfredonia 193. Mangano 331. Maniacium 334. Mannu, river 375. Manoppello 186. Manouba, the 385. Marano 189. Marausa 285. Marcianise 204. S. Marco 219.

— di Alunzio 310. — , Cape 372. Marechiaro 88. Marecoecola , Telegrafo

di 152. Mare Dolce, Castello di 274.

— Grande 210.

— Morto 101. 102.

— Piccolo 210. 212.

— Pontis 372. Marescia 199.

S. Margarita 105.

S. Margherita 289.

S. Maria dei Bisognosi

181. — , near Catanzaro 215. — , near Massalubrense

150.

— di Buonaria 370.

— di Capua Vetere 8.

— a Castello 152.

— del Castello 118.

— di Gesii 273.

— di Leuca 203.

— di Licodia 335.

— di Luco 184.

— Maggiore 161.

— a Monte Vergine 289

— della Neve 151.

S. Maria a Pozzano 145.

— del Rosario 160.

— della Scala 321.

— di Siponto 193.

— del Soccorso 156.

— della Valle 321.

— della Vittoria 182. — , island 284. Marianopoli 298.

S. Marie 182. Mariglianella 174. Marigliano 10. 174. Marina del Cantone 150.

— di Cazzano 147.

— di Equa 146.

— di Puolo 149. Marinella 373. Marino 189. Maritimo 226. Marmore 177. Marro, river 222. Marrubiu 372. Marruvium 184. Marsa, La 386. Marsala 283. Marsico Nuovo 208. S. Martino (near Pa- lermo) 272.

— in Pensilis 191. Mascali 331. Mascalucia 345. Massa (Vesuvius) 115.

— d'Albe 182. Massafra 200. Massalubrense 150. Massico, Monte 18. Massolivieri, promont.

351. Mater Domini 161. Matese 10. Matrice 191. Matrinus 190. Mazara 283. Mazaras, river 283. Mazzara 283. 312. Meana 376.

Megara Hyblaea 350. 233 Megarean Bay 350. Megaris 34. Melfl 194. — , Pizzuto di 195. Meligunis 323. Melilli 350. Melite 377. Melito 217. Menae 233. 302. Menessale, river 333. Menfrici or Menu 288. Mercante, Passo del 217. Mereato S. Severino 175. Mercogliano 175. Mesagne 213. Mesima, river 224.

Messana 315. Messina 313.

S. Agostino 318.

S. Anna 318.

S. Annunziata 317.

C'ampo Santo 320.

Cappuccini, Monte de 321.

Cathedral 316.

Cattolica, la 317.

Cemeterv, Prot. 320.

Citadel 320.

Corso Cavour 319.

— Vitt. Emanuele 320. SS. Cosma & Damiano

318. Dogana 320. Exchange 320. Fort Castellaccio 320.

— Gonzago 320. Fountain of Montorsoli

317. S. Francesco d'Assisi

319. — , Oratorio di 319. S. Gioacchino 319. S. Giovanni Decollate

319. S. Gregorio 318. Harbour 320. Indirizzo (church) 317. Lazzaretto 320. Library 317. Lighthouse 320. S. Lucia 318. S. Maddalena 317. S. Maria Alemanna

317.

— di Mortalto 318.

— della Scala 319. Matagrifone 319. Matrice 316. Natural History Col- lection 317.

S. Niccolo 319. Ospedale Civico 318. Pace, Chiesa della 319. Palazzo Brunaccini319.

— Grano 319.

— Municipale 319. Post Office 320. Rocca Guelfonia 319. Statue of Don John of

Austria 319.

Strada Mil Hare 321.

Teatro Vitt. Eman. 314.

University 317.

Via Garibaldi 319.

Villa Guelfonia 318. Messina, the Strait of 224.

315. Meta 147. Metaponto 209.

26*

404

INDEX.

Metapontum 209. Metaurum 221. Metaurus 222. Mezzagno 274. Mezzocampo 335. Mezzojnso 289. 3. Michele, Mte. 155. — , nearManfredonia 193. — , near MeM 195. Mignano 6. Milazzo 228. 312. Mileto 221. Miletto, Monte 10. Mili 326. Milis 372. Miliscola 102. Militello 302. Mimiani 298. Mimnermum 272. Minardo, Monte 335. Mineo 233. 302. Minervino, Murgie di 197. Miniscola Spiaggia di 102. Minoa 290. Minopolis 200. Minori 169. Minturna 18. Minturnae 18. Mirto-Oosia 214. Miseno 101. — , Capo 101. Misenttm 101. Misilmeri 289. Misterbianco 336. Mistretta 310. Mitromania,Grotta di 157. Modica 305. Modione, river 280. Modugno 197. 199. Mojano 204. Mojo 333. Mola di Bari 200. — di Gaeta 16. — , near Taormina 330, Molentargiu , Stagno di

368. Moles Puteolanae 94. Molfetta 197. Molina 181. — , Punta 106. Molini, Valle de' 171. Monacilione 191. Monacone, II 155. Monalus 310. Monasterace 216. Mondello 270. Mondragone 18. Monfina, Rocca 6. Monforte 192. 313. Mongibello 343. Mongiuffi 326. Mongrassano 219. Monopoli 200.

Monreale (Sicily) 271.

— (Sardinia) 372. Monserrato 375. Monfagano 191. Montagnuola, the 346. Montaguto 206. Montalbano 213. Montallegro 290. Montalto 218. 219. 224. Montauro 216. Monte Cairo 6.

— Cassino 5. Compatri 1. Fortino 1. Giordano 214.

— S. Giuliano 286. 227.

— Grosse 307.

— Lattaro 146.

— Nuovo 97. 114.

— Santangelo 193.

— Vergine 175. Montecalvo 206. Montecardillo 336. Montecorvino 165. Monteiasi 213. Monteleone 221. Montemaggiore 291. Montemesola 213. Montenarba 365. Montenero 191. Montepagano 190. Montepertuso 146. Monleponi 365. 371. Monteprandone 189. Montesampolo 189. Montesano 208. Montesarchio 10. Montesardo 203. Montesilvano 190. Monies Lactarii 146.

— Nephmii 226.

— Pelorides 226. Montevecchio 365. Monti 373.

— Rossi 346. 336. Monticelli 15. Montorio 190. Montoro 175. Morano 208. Morcone 192. Mores 373. Morgantium 233. Morino 187. Mormanno 208. Morolo 2. Moropano 108. Moscia, Monte 216. Motciano 190. Motta 192.

Motta S. Anastasia 302

336. Mottola 200. Motye 234. 284.

Muglia 302. Mulinazzo 289. Muranum 208. Murata, La 209. Murgie di Minervino 197. Muro 203.

Lucano 208. Musei 371. Mussumeli 292. Mutignano 190. Mylae 312.

Nao, Capo 215. Naples 19.

Accademia Fontaniana 47.

Acqua di Serino 81.

Albergo dei Poveri 41.

S. Angelo a Nilo 47.

S. Anna dei Lombardi 43.

SS. Annunziata 48.

Aquarium 33.

Archetiello, r 89.

Archives 48.

Arcivescovado 53.

Arrival 19.

Arsenal 38.

Banca Kazionale 41.

Bankers 23.

S. Barbara 38.

Baths 24.

Bazaar 41.

Beer 21.

Boarding Houses 20.

Boats 23.

Bool; sellers 25.

Botanic Garden 41.

Cable Tramways 23. 82.

Cafes 21.

Camaldoli 90.

Campi Santi 49.

Capo Coroglio 88.

— di Posdlipo 88. Capodimonte 81. Cappella del Sole 50.

— del Tesoro 51.

S. Carlo, Theatre 36. Carnival 28. Carriages 21. Casa dei Trovatelli 49. Castello Capuano 49.

— del Carmine 39-

— Nuovo 37.

— dell' Ovo 34.

— Sant' Elmo 83. Catacombs 80.

S. Caterina a Formello

49. Cathedral 51. Cemeteries 49. Chemists 24. Chiaja, the 32.

INDEX.

405

Naples :

S. Chiara 44.

Chiesa del Sannazaro

87. Cigars 21.

Colonna de' Martiri 40, Commandant's Resid.

35. Commissionnaires 30. Confectioners 21. Conservatorium of

Music 55. Consulates 24. Corso Garibaldi 39. 49.

— Vittorio Emanuele 82.

S. Croce al Mercato 39. Cumse Railway 91. Custom House 38. Dazio Consumo 89. Deputazione di Salute

38. Dogana 38. S. Domenico Maggiore

45. Duomo 51. English Churches 24 Exchange 37. Festivals, national and

religious 28. S. Filippo Neri 53. Foundlings' Home 49 S. Francesco di Paola

35. Frisio, Scoglio di 87. Fuorigrotta 86. Galleria Principe di Na-

poli 41.

— Umberto I 36. S. Gennaro 80. Gesii Nuovo 44.

S. Giacomo dellaMarca 42.

— degli Spagnuoli 37. S. Giovanni a Carbo-

nara 50.

— Maggiore 47.'

— de' Pappacoda 47. Goods Agents 26. Grotta Nuova di Posi-

lipo 86. Grotto of Sejanus 88. Guides 30. Harbours 38. History 30. Hospitals 24. 85. 87. Hotels 19. 20. Immacolatella 38. Incoronata 42. S. Januarius, Chap. 51. Largo della Carita 40.

S. Domenico 45.

S. Ferdinando 36.

Naples : Largo delMercatello41

— 8. Trinita Magg. 44.

— della Vittoria 34. Liceo Vitt. Eman. 41. Lighthouse 38. S. Lorenzo 54. Lotto 28. S. Lucia 34. S.Maria del Carmine 39.

— Costantinopolitana 82.

— del Faro 88.

— la Nuova 42.

— del Parto 87.

— di Piedigrotta 86.

— della Pietade'Sangri 47.

S. Martino 83. Martyrs' Monument 40. Mergellina, the 86. Miracoli, de' 82. Miradois 81. Molo Angioino 38.

— Piccolo 38. Money Changers 23. Monte Oliveto 43.

— di Pieta 48.

— Santo 40. 82. Municipio 37. Museo Capodimonte81 Museo Civico Filangieri

53. Museo Nazionale 55. Aeschines, Statue of

63. Alexander, Battle of

65. xliv. Amazon, etc., of the

Pergam. School 62.

xxxiv. Animals (Bronze) 67 Apollo playing the

Lyre 68. xxxvi. Balbi, Statues of the

63.

Bronzes, Ancient 67. — , Small 78. Caligula, Statue of

69. Chinese Collections

61. Christian Inscrip- tions 61. Coins 74.

Crystal, Ancient 74. Cumsean Collection

70. Dancing Faun 67. Dante, Bust of 70. Doryphorus of Poly-

cletus 62. xxxiv. Drunken Faun 68.

Naples :

Museo Nazionele: Egyptian Antiquities

61. Emperors, Busts and

Statues of 64. Engravings 70. Farnese Bull 60. xxxiv.

— Flora 65.

— Hera (Juno) 62. xxxii.

— Hercules 60. Food Collection 71. Frescoes, Ancient,

from Pompeii, etc.

56. 69. xli. — , Copies of 70. Gold and Silver

Ornaments 79. Harmodius and Aris-

togeiton62. xxxiii. Heraclea, Tables of

60. Homer 62. Inscriptions 59. Library 74. Marble Sculptures 61 . Mercury Reposing 68. Mosaics 58. Museo Santangelo76. Narcissus 67. Orestes and Electra

61. xxxvi. Ornamental Paint- ings 59. Orpheus relief 66.

xxxiii. Papyri , Library of

71. Pictures, Modern 71.

74. Pompeian Frescoes

56. 69. xli. Pompeii, Model of

78. Portico degli Impe-

ratori 64. Portrait Statues and

Busts 63. Precious Relics 79. Psyche of Capua 63.

xxxvi. Raccolta Pornogra-

fica 74. Reliefs 65. 66. Renaissance Works

70. Salpion, Vase of 66.

xxxvi. Satyrs 62. 67. 68. Terracottas, Ancient

69.

406

INDEX.

Naples : Museo Nazlonale : Vases Collection of

76. Venus Callipygus 62. — of Capua 62.

xxxvi. — , Statues of 63. Weapons, Collection

of 69. Wounded Gaul 62. xxxiv. Museum of S. Martino

84. Newspapers 28. Observatory 81. Omnibuses 23. Ospedale dellaPace 51. S. Paolo Maggiore 54. Palazzo d'Angri 41.

— Arcivescovile 53.

— Calabritto 40.

— di Capodimonte 81.

— Casacalenda 45.

— Caviati 45.

— Corigliano 45.

— Cuomo 53.

— di Donn' Anna 87.

— Fondi 42.

— Gravina 43.

— Maddaloni 41.

— de' Ministeri 37.

— Nunziante 40.

— Partanna 40.

— Reale 35.

— S. Severo 45.

— Sirignano 37

S. Paolo Maggiore 54. Parco Margherita 84.

— Savoia 85. Pausilypon 85. Pensions 20. Photographs 26. Physicians 24. Piazza Cavour 41.

— Dante 41.

— S. Ferdinand o 36.

— Garibaldi 39.

— S. Gennaro 51.

— Gerolomini 53.

— de' Martiri 40.

— del Mercato 39.

— di Montoliveto 43. — • del Municipio 37.

— del Plebiscito 35.

— Salvator Rosa 82.

— la Torretta 85.

— Umberto 33. 85.

S. Pietro a Maiella 54.

— Martire 38. Pizzofalcone 34. Police OfBce 19. Ponte di Chiaja 40.

Nap les Ponte della Sanita 80. Porta Alba 41.

— Capuana 49.

— del Carmine 39.

— Nolana 39. Porto Grande 38.

— Mercantile 88.

— Militare 38.

— Piccolo 38. Posilipo 85. 86. Post Office 24. 43. Prefettura 35. Railways 19. Reclusorio 41. Restaurants 20. S. Restituta 52. Riviera di Chiaja 32 Sannazaro, Chiesa del

87. Sansevero, Cappella di

47. Scuola di Virgilio 88. S. Sebastiano 38. S. Severino e Sosio 47. Shops 25.

Slaughter House 49. Specola, la 81. Statue of Alvino 33.

— of Bellini 55.

— of Charles III. 35.

— of Colletta 33.

— of Dante 41.

— of Ferdinand I. 35.

— of Italia 36.

— of Mercadante 42.

— of Poerio 42.

— of Thalberg 33.

— of Vico 33. Steamboats 19. Strada S. Anna de Lorn

bardi 41.

— S. Biagio de' Librai 48.

— Calabritto 40.

— Caraceiolo 32.

— Carbonara 50.

— S. Carlo 36.

— S. Caterina 40.

— di Chiaja 40.

— del Duomo 53.

— Foria 41. .

— S. Gennaro dei Po- veri 80.

— del Gigante 34.

— S. Giuseppe 42.

— di S. Lucia 34.

— Medina 42. 37.

— di Mergellina 86.

— Montoliveto 43.

— Nuova 39.

— — di Capodimonte 80.

Naples :

Strada Nuova di Posi- lipo 87.85.

— Partenope 34.

— di Piedigrotta85. 86.

— del Piliero 38.

— di Porto 38.

— di Roma 40.

— Salv. Rosa 82.

— Tasso 85.

— S. Teresa degli Scalzi 80.

— deiTribunali51.53.

— S. Trinita Magg. 44.

— deir Universita 47. Street Scenes 27. Telegraph Office 24. 43. Theatres 26. 36. 38. Toledo 40. Tombola 28.

Tondo di Capodimonte

80. Tramways 22. Trattorie 21. 20. S. Trinita Maggiore 44. University 47. Via, see Strada. Vicaria, la 49. Villa Nazionale, the 32.

— Angri 87.

— Avelli 81.

— Cottrau 87.

— Forquet 81.

— Gallo 81.

— De la Hanti 88.

— Meuricoffre 81.

— Nazionale 32.

— del Popolo 39.

— Rendell 87.

— Rufl'u 81.

— Sanssouci 88.

— Thalberg 88. Virgil's Tomb 86. S. Vital e 92. Vomero 82. 89. Wine 21. Zoological Station 33.

Nardo 202.

Naro 303.

Naso 310.

— , Fiumara 311.

Nasone, Punta del 113.

Natiolum 198.

Naxos 233. 331.

Nazaret 89.

Nebrodic Mts., the 226.

333. Negro, river 207. Neptunian Mts., the 313.

226. Nerano 150. Neretum 202. Nesis 88.

Netium 198. Nicastro 221. S. Niccolo Varco 166. S. Nicola 168. 194. — , Monte 103.

— (Capua) 9.

— (Leece) 202.

— (Mazzara) 283.

— (Termini) 290.

— d'Arena 348. Nicolosi 346. 336. Nicosia 291. Nicotera 224. Ninfa, river 11.- S. Ninfa 279. Nisi, Fiume di 326. Nisida 88. ,

Nizza di Sicilia 326. Noce 273. Nocella, river 277. Nocera de' Pagani 160. — . Superiore 161. — , in Calabria 224. Noicattaro 2C0. Nola 173. 174. Nora 371. Norba 11. Norcia 177. 190. Norma 11. Notabile, La 379. Notaresco 190. Noto 306. Nova Siri 214. Novara 312. Niiceria Alfaterna 160. Nuoro 376. 373. Nurallao 375. Nursia 177.

Ocre 181. Ofantino 196. Ofanto river 194. 196. Offlda 189.

Ogliastro, in Sicily 289. — , near Paestum 166. Ogygia 377. Olbia 373. Oliver! 312. — , Fiumara 312. Olmedo 374. Ongnina, L' 332. Ontanese 11. Ordona 194. ,Oreto, river 274. Oria 213. Oristano 372. Orlando, Capo d' 311. 146, Orosei 376. 373. Orri 371. . Orru, Monte 376. Orsara di Puglia 206. Orso, Capo d' 168. — , Monte 277..

INDEX.

S. Orsola 375. Orta Nova 195. Ortona 191. Ortuabis 376. Oschiri 373. Osimo 189. Ostuni 200. Othonian Islands 387. Othonous 387. Otranto 203. — , Terra d' 176. 2C0. Ottaiano 10. 174. Ovindoli 181. Ozieri 373.

Pabillonis 372. Pachino 305. Pace 321. Paceco 285. Pachynum, Promont.

308. Padula 207. Psestum 165. 166. Pagani 160. Paganica 180. 181. Palseokastrizza 401. Palaeopolis 30. Palagianello 200. Palagiano 200. Palagonia 302. Palavicini 270. Palazzo 195. Palazzolo Acreide 306. Palermo 246.

Acquasanta 263.

S.AgataliScoruggi260.

S. Agostino 259.

Albergo de' Poveri 270.

SS. Annunziata 267.

S. Antonio 257. 258.

S. Assunta 253.

Bagaria or Bagheria 275.

Baida 273.

Benedictine Monastery 272.

Biblioteca Comunale 256.

Botan. Garden 259.

Cala, La 249. 257. 267.

Campo S. Orsola or di S. Spirito 274.

Canaris Monument 259.

Cancelliere, Chiesa del 254.

Cappella Palatina 250.

Capuchin Monastery 270.

Carceri 268.

Carmine Maggiore 256.

Casa Professa 255.

Casino Nuovo 247.

Castellaccio, II 272.

407

Palermo :

Castellammare, Fort

267. Castello di Mare Dolce

274. Catacombs 267. S. Cataldo 255. S. Caterina 255. Cathedral 253. Charles V. , Statue of

254. S. Chiara 256. S. Ciro 274. S. Cita 266. Collegio Nuovo 254. Conservatorio 257. Corso Alberto Amedeo

267.

— Calataflmi 270. Cottone, Statue of 260. Cuba, La 270. Cubola 270.

S. Domenico 266. English Cemetery 268.

— Church 248. 267. S. Eulalia 259. Falde 268. Favara, La 274. Favorita, La 269. Finance Office 257. Flora, La 259. Florio, Vine, Statue

of 267. Fontana del Garaffo

257 Foro Italico 259. FoundlingHospital 257. S. Francesco de' Chio-

dari 257. Gangia, la 253. Giardino d' Acclima-

zione 271.

— Garibaldi 257.

— Inglese 260. S. Giorgio 267.

S. Giovanni degli Ere- miti 252.

— de' Leprosi 274.

S. Giuseppe dei Teatini

254. Grotta de' Giganti 274.

— di S. Rosalia 269. Harbour 249. Health 248. History 249. Hotels 246. Infirmeria dei Sacer-

doti 253. Istituto Agrario 270. Jesuits' Church 256. Lyceum 254. Madonna dell' Incor-

onata 253.

408

INDEX.

Palermo :

Madonna della Provi-

denza 254. Magione, La 258. S. Marco 260. S. Maria di Altofonte

273.

— dell1 Ammiraglio 255.

— della Catena 257.

— di Gesii 273.

— di Grazie 256.

— dei Miracoli 257.

— Nuova 267.

— dello Spasimo 258.

— della Vittoria 258.

— della Volta 259. Marina 259. S. Martino 272. Martorana 255. S. Matteo 256. Meli, Statue of 258. Mimnermum 272. Monreale 271. Monte Pellegrino 268. Monterosato's Collec- tion 255.

Museo Nazionale 260. National Library 254. S. Niccolo dell' Al- bergheria 256.

— dei Greci 267. S. Ninfa (tower) 251. Observatory 251. Oratorio di S. Lorenzo

257.

— del S. Rosario 267, Palazzo Abbatelli 258.

— Aiutamicristo 256.

— Arcivescovile 252.

— Baucina 258.

— Belmonte 254.

— Butera 258.

— S. Cataldo 258.

— Cattolica 257.

— Chiaramonte 257.

— della Citta 255.

— Federico 256.

— Forcella 258.

— Geraci 254.

— Municipale 255.

— Pietratagliata 259.

— Raffadale 256.

— Reale 250.

— Riso 254.

— Sclafani 252.

— Serradifalco 255.

— Settimo 256.

— dei Tribunal! 258.

— Villafranca 254. Philip V. , Monument

of 252. Piazza Bologni 254

Palermo : Piazza della Croce de' Vespri 256.

— del Duomo 253.

— dell' Indipendenza 252.

— della Kalsa 258.

— della Magione 258.

— Marina 257.

— dell' Olivella 260.

— Pretoria 255.

— della Rivoluzione 256.

— Ruggero Settimo 260.

— Vigliena 254.

— della Vittoria 250. Pie di Grotta, church

267. Pleta, Chiesa della

258. S. Pietro Martire 259. Politeama Garibaldi

260. Ponte dell' Ammiraglio

274.

— delle Grazie 273. Porrazzi 273. Porta S. Antonino 256.

— di Castro 253.

— Felice 257.

— Garibaldi 256.

— de' Greci 258.

— Kuova 252.

— d'Ossuna 267. Portella 273. Porto Salvo, Chiesa di

257. Post Office 248. 254. Punta di Bersaglio

268. Quattro Arie 273.

— Canti 254. Railway Stations 246.

256.

Rocca, La 271.

S. Rosalia, Grotto of 269.

S. Salvatore 254.

Settimo, Ruggiero, Sta- tue of 260.

Spedale Grande 252.

S. Spirito 274.

Steamboats 248.

Steri, Lo 257.

Stradoue del Borgo 268.

Teatro Vittorio Emanuele 260.

Teresa, S. 258.

Tramways 247.

University 255.

Via della Bara 260.

— Garibaldi 256.

Palermo : Via della Liberta 260.

— Macqueda 255. 259.

— Vittorio Emanuele 256. 254.

Villa Belmonte 268.

— Butera 267. 275.

— Florio 267.

— Giulia 259.

— Grazia 273.

— Palagonia 275.

— Serradifalco 267.

— Sofia 269.

— Tasca 271.

— Valguarnera 275. Zisa, La 267.

Palestrina 1.

Palica 302.

Palici, Lago de1 302.

Palizzi 217.

Palma, near Nola 174.

— di Montechiaro 303. Palmaria 14. Palmarola 14. Palmi 222. Palo del Colle 199. Paludi Pontine 12. Palycus 223.

S. Panagia, Capo 350. Panaria 325. Pandateria 14. Panni 206. Panormos 234. 249. Pantacyas 349. S. Pantaleo, Isola 284. Pantaleone, Mt. 391. Pantalica 349. Pantani, lakes 321. Pantano 349.

— deir Acerra 10.

— di Policoro 214. Pantelleria 380. 226. Paola 223. — , Lago di 15. S. Paolo, near Syracuse

306. 307. — , Island, near Sora 187 — , near Taranto 200. Paradiso, Torrente di 321 Parco 273. Partanna 289. Parthenope 30. Partinico 277. Passero, Promontorio 226,

306. Passo della Portella 180 Passofonduto 292. Passo Martino 349. Pasteria 333. Pastina 171. Paterno 177. 160. 184. Paterno 335. Patti 311.

INDEX.

409

Patii 203. Paulilatino 372. Pausilypon 88. Pecoriello (Grotto) 149. Pedara 348. Pedaso 189. S. Pelino 186. Pellaro 217. Pellegrino, Monte 268.

224. 228. 276. Pelleka 390. Peloric Mts. 228. Pendolo, Monte 146. Penna, Punta di 191. — , Punta della 212. Pennata, Punta di 101. Penne 190. Pentima 186. Perda Cuadda, Eio di

376. Perdaliana 376. Perdas Alvas, Rio de las

373. Perdedu, Monte 376. Pergusa, Lago 302. Pericoli, Campo 180. Persano 207. Pertosa 207. Pescara 186. 190. Peseina 184. Pescolamazza 192. Pescolanciano 185. Pesto 166. Petina 207. Petraea 291. Petrale 286. Petralia di Sopra 291.

— di Sotto 291. Pettineo, Fiume di 310. Pettorano 185. Phaleron 30. Pheleka, bridge 391. Phlegraean Plain, the 91. Phoenicusa 325.

Piana dei Greci 273. Piano, Monte 190.

— de* Cappuccini 286.

— del Lago 346.

— di Cinquemiglia 185. Piazza Armerina 302. Picerno 208. Piedilueo 177. Piedimonte d' Alife 10.

— 331. 333.

S. Pier Niceto 313. Pietrabbondante 185. Pietracamela 181. Pietra-Elcina 192. Pietragalla 209. Pietrapaola 214. Pietrapertosa 209. Pietraperzia 302. Pietra Santa 162.

S. Pietro, Avezzano 182. — , Basilica 150. — , island (Tarantol 210. — , — (Sard.) 371. 365.

in Fine 6.

Pula 371.

di Torres 373.

— Vernotico 202. Pignatara, Monte 311. Pignataro 7.

Pigne, Valle delle 151. Pilae 94. Pilastri 92. Pimonte 146. Pineta, Monte 307. Pinna 190. Piomba, river 190. Piperno 12. Piraino 311. Pirri 375. Pisciarelli, I 95. Piscina Grande 97. Piscina Mirabilis 100. Pisciotta 166. Pisticci 209. Pithecusa 105. Pizzo 221.

Cefalone 180.

— d'Intermesole 180. di Sevo 189.

Pizzone, II 212. Pizzuta, La 306. Placeolum 306. S. Placido 326. Plaia, the 371. Platani, river 289. 292. Platano, river 203. Plemmyrion 351. Ploaghe 373. Poetelia 214. Pofl 3.

Pogerola 171. Poggio di S. Angelo 303

— Imperiale 192. Poggioreale 174. Policastro 223. Policoro 213. Polignano a Mare 200. Polizzi 291.

Polla 207.

Pollina 310.

— , Fiume di 310.

Pollino, Monte 208. 214,

219. 223. Pomigliano d' Arco 174, Pompeii 119.

Altar of the Lares 134.

Amphitheatre 142.

Bakehouse 139.

Basilica 125.

Bidental 129.

Cardo 121. 130.

Curia 127.

Pompeii : Curia Isiaca 130. Custom House 140. Decumanus Major and Minor 122. 125. 135. Eumachia, building of

128. Forum Civile 126.

— Triangulare 129. Fountain ofAbundantia

131. Fullonica 134. 137. Gates 130. 140. Gladiators1 Barracks

129. Hotel's 119. House (casa) of the

Wounded Adonis 139.

— of the Anchor 137.

— of Anteros 134.

— of Apollo 139.

— of Ariadne 135.

— with the Balcony 133.

— of the Boar Hunt 128.

— of Caecilius Jucun- dus 135.

— dei Capitelli Figu- rati 135.

— of Castor and Pollux 133.

— of the Centaur 138.

— del Centenario 134.

— of the Chase 135.

— of Corn. Rufus 131.

— dei Diadumeni 131.

— of Epid. Rufus 131.

— ofEpid.Sabinusl31.

— of the Faun 135.

— of the Large Foun- tain 138.

— of the Small Foun- tain 138.

— of the Grand-Duke of Tuscany 135.

— of Holconius 132.

— of theLabyrinth 138.

— of M. Lticretius 133.

— of Meleager 139.

— of the Mosaic Co- lumns 141.

— dell' Orso 133.

— of Pansa 137.

— della Pareta Nera 135.

— of Pomponius 137.

— of Sallust 139.

— of Siricus 132.

— of the Surgeon 140.

— of the Tragic Poet 136.

— of Vesonius Primus 134.

410

INDEX.

Pompeii : House of the Vestals

140. Insula: 122. Library 139. Lupanare 133. Macellum 127. Museum 124. Oscan tombs 141. Pagus Augustus Felix

140. Pantheon 127. Pavement 122. Porta di Ercolano 140.

— Marina 124.

— di Stabia 130. Regions 121.

Scuola Archeologica

139. Shops' 122. 133. Stabian Thermse 131. Strada deir Abbon-

danza 131.

— dei Diadumeni 131.

— della Fortuna 135.

— della Fullonica 138.

— del Lupanare 133.

— di Mercurio 137.

— di Nola 134.

— di Sallustio 139.

— della Scuola 128.

— dei Sepolcri 140.

— Stabianal30.133.134.

— delle Terme 136. Street of Tombs 140. Streets 122. Taverns 138. 140. Temple of .^Esculapius

130.

— of Apollo 125. 129.

— of Augustus 128.

— of Fortuna 136.

— of Isis.130.

— of Jupiter 126.

— of the Lares 137.

— of Mercury 128. Theatre, the Great 129. — , the Small 130. Thermae 133. 136. — , Stabian 131. Tomb of M. Arrius

Diomedes 142.

— of Calventius Quin- tus 141.

— of Cerinius 141.

— of the Garlands 141.

— of M. Libella 142.

— of Mamia 141.

— of !N3evoleia Tyche 142.

— of M. Porcins 141.

— of Scaurus 141.

— of Servilia 141

Pompeii :

Tomb of Terentius 141.

— of Veius 141.

— of N. Velasius Gra- tus 142.

Town Wall 140. Tribunals 128. Triclinium 142. TriumphalArchl26.127. "Via Marina 125. Vico del Lupanare 132. Vicolo dei Teatri 129. Villa of Cicero 141.

— of Diomedes 142. Pondikonisi 390. Ponte di Bovino 206.

— di Caligola 94.

— Carcacci 335.

— Cartau 371.

— di Cicerone 488.

— S. Cono 208.

— della Disgrazia 331.

— della Maddalena 111.

— Maggiore 147.

— di Silla 207.

— Valentino 203. Pontecagnano 165. Pontelandolfo 192. Ponti della Valle 10. 204. Pontiae 14. Pontine Islands 14.

— Marshes 12. Pontone 169. 172. — , Castello 169. Ponza Islands 14. Popoli 186. Porcari, river 349. Porrazzi 273. Portella, La 15.

— di Mare 273. 276. — , Monte della 180. — , Passo della 180. Porticella 276. Portici 108. Porto d'Ascoli 189. 190.

— Civitanova 189.

— Empedocle 293.228.290

— S. Giorgio 189.

— d'Ischia 103.

— di Levante 324.

— Palo 306.

— di Ponente 325.

— Scuso 371.

— Torres 375.

— d'Ulisse 306. Portocannone 191. Portovesme 371. Portus Caiela 17.

— Julius 98.

— Ulyxis 333. Poseidonia 166. Posilipo 85. 86.

Pnsit.ann 173. 152.

Potamo 390. Potentia 208. Potenza 208.

— Picena 189. Pozzallo 306. Pozzano 145. Pozzo d' Antullo 2.

— di Gotto 312.

— di Latignano 177.

— di S. Venera 332. Pozzopiano 147. 152. Pozzuoli 93. Prajano 173. Prata 175. Pratola 175.

-Peligna 186. Preazzano 152. Presenzano 6. 186. Presicce 203. Prezza 184. Priolo 350. Priora 150. Privernum 12. Prochyia 104. Procida 104. -, Canale di 102. — , Monte di 102. Promontorium Herculis

217.

— lapygium 203-

— Leucopetrae 217.

— Minervae 150.

— Pelorum 322. Salentinum 203.

Prossedi 12. Pudano 215. Pula 371. Puteolaneum 97. Puteoli 94.

duadriga di Mezzo 276. S. Quaranta 206. Quartu 370. 368. Quattro Arie 273. Quisisana 145.

Racalmuto 299. Raddusa 301. Radicena 217. Kagattisi 285. Ragusa 305. Rahal Zabuth 289. Eaiano 1S1.

— Superiore 184. Raito 168. Rama, Capo di 277. Randazzo 334. Rapido, river 4. Rapolla 194. Ras el-Belat 283. Ravello 171. Reate 177. Reca.na.ti 1RQ

Reggio 217. Eegi Lagni 10. Reginolo, river 169. Reitano, river 310. Rende S. Fili 219. Rendina, river 194. Resina 109. Retiro 15. Revigliano 143. Rhegium 217. Riace 216. Riardo 6. Ribera 289. Rieti 177.

Rigano, Passo di, 273. Riofreddo 181. Rionera 185. Ripabottoni 191. Ripalimosano 191. Ripalta 192. Ripatransone 189. Ripattone 190. Riposto 331. Rivisondoli 185. S. Rizzo, Colle di 313. Rizzuto, Capo 216. Rocca Bernarda 215.

— Cinquemiglia 185.

— di Corno 178.

— di Cusa 283.

— d'Evandro 6.

— di Fondi 177/178.

— Gorga 12.

— Grande 292.

— Guelfonia 319.

— Imperiale 214.

— di Mezzo 181.

— Monfina 6.

— Pia 185.

— Ravindola 186.

— di Sarno 291.

— Secca 12.

— Valloscura 185. Roccalumera 326. Rqccapalumba 291. Roccarainola 174. Roccarasa 185. Roccasecca 3. 188. Rocceletta, La 215. Roccella (Sicily) 308.

— Ionica 217. Rocchetta S. Antonio 194. Rocciola, Punta di 104. Roggiano 219. Rogliano 220. Romagnano 208. Romano 181.

Rometta 313. Rosa, Mte. 323. Rosamarina,Fiumara 310. Rosarno 221. Rose 219. Roseto 214.

INDEX.

Rosolini 306. Rossano'214. Rotello 191. Roveto, Monte di 292. -, Val di 187. Roviano 181. Rovolo, Monte 335. Rubi 197. Rudiae 202. Rugge 202. Rus-Melkarth 290. Rutigliano 200. Ruvo 197.

Sabato, river 204. Sabdtus 220. Sacco, river 1. Saepinum 192. Sagittario 184. 185. Sagras 216. Sagrus 185. 191. Sala 207. '

— (Catanzaro) 215. Salandra 209. Salandrella, river 209. Salemi 279. Salerno 163. Salernurn 163. Salina, Isola 325. Saline 217. Salinella 336. Salto 182.

Salvatichi, Monte de' 102. Salvatore, Monte (Cefalii)

309. 226.

(Corfu) 387. 391.

(Lipari Islands) 325.

— dei Greci 321. Salvo, Monte 300. S. Salvo 191. Samassi 371. Sambucca 289. JSamnium 176. Sampieri 305. Sangro, river 185. 191. Sanluri 371. Sansone, Chiesa di 209. Saponara 208. 313. Sarcidano 375. Sardinia 365. Sarno 174.

river 143. 174. , Villa 92. 95. Sa'ssa 178. Sassano 207. Sassari 374. Saticola 204. Saviano 174. Savignano 206. Savone, river 18. Savuto, river 220. 224. Scafati 160. Scala 171. 172.

411

Scala di Giocca 374. — , near Patti 311. Scaletta, near Eavello 172. — , near Messina 326. Scalilli 289. Scamander 278. Seanno 184. 185. Scanzano 289. 213. Schikly, island 381. Schioppo, Lo 187. Schiso, Castello di 331. Sciacca 288. Sciara 291. Scicli 305. Scilla 222. Scisciano 174. Sclafani 291. Scogli de' Ciclopi 332. Scoglitti 304. Scordia 302. 349. Seurcola 182. Scutolo, Punta di 146. Scylaceum 216. Scylla 222. S. Sebastiano 375. 376.

— (Vesuvius), 115. Sebeto, river 108. Sebka el-Rouan 386. Segesta 278. Segni 1.

Sele, river 166.207. Selina, Torrente 327. Selinunto 280. 283. Selinus 280. 234. Sella di Corno 178. Sella-Misilbesi 289. Sellia 215. Seminara 217. Senorbi 375. Sepino 192. Serapeuin, the 96. Serino 175. — , Lago di 208. Sermoneta 11. Serra delle Concazze 348.

— del Solflzio 346. della Spina 335.

Serracapriola 192. Serradifalco 299. Serramanna 371. Serri 375. Sessa Aurunca 18. Sesto Campano 186.

— Capriati 186. Setia 12. Settimo 375. Seui 376. Seulo 376. S. Severo 192. Sevo, Pizzo di 189. Sezze 12. Sferracavallo 277 Sferro 302.

412

INDEX.

Sgurgola 2. Sibari 214. Sibilla, Montagna della

176. 189. Sicci 375. Sicignano 207. Sicily 225. Sicoli 184. Siderno 216. Sidi-Bou-Said 386. Signia 1. Signora, la 308. Sikelia 225. Sila Mountains 220. 214.

218. Silarus 166. Siliqua 371. Silvi 190. Simaxis 372. Simeto 302. 349. — , river 228. 301. 302. Simmeri 215. Sinno, river 208. 214. Sinuessa 18. Sinus Terinaeus 220. Sipontum 193. Sirens , Islands of the

150. Sirino, Monte 208. Siris 208. 214. Soccavo 91. Solanto 275. Solaro, Monte 158. 154. Solarussa 372. Solemnis 375. Soleto 202. Solfatara 95. Solfizio, Serra del 346. Solmona 184. Soloeis 275. 234. Solofra 175. Solopaca 204. Soluntum 275. Somma, Monte 118. 113. Sonnino 12. Sora 187. 3. Sorgono 376. Sori, Monte, 226. Soriano 221. Sorrentini 311. Sorrento 147. — , Piano di 147. — , Punta di 149. Sortino 307. S. Sostene 216. Sotir 292. Soverato 216. Spaccaforno 306. Spada, Monte 376. Spadafora 313. Spagnuola 285. Spampinato, Cava di 307. Sparagio, Monte 297,

Sparanise 7. 18. Spartivento, Capo 217.

223. 368. Sperlinga 291. Sperlonga 16. Sperone 174. Spezzano 208. 219. Spiaggia di Miniscola

102. Spina, Monte 92. Spinetoli 189. S. Spirito 198.

(Sicily) 185. 299.

Spoleto 190. Squillace 216. Squinzano 202. Stabiae 144. Staglino 199. Stagnicello 302. Stagnone, Lo 284. Stampaci 306. S. Stefano 14.

— del Bosco 221.

— di Camastra 310. Stilo 216. Strato 85. Stromboli 224. 325. Stroncone 177. Strongoli 214. Strongyle 325. Stufe, le 324.

— di S. Germano 92. Subveni Homini 92. Suelli 375. Suessa Aurunca 18. Suessula 10. Sulmo 184. Surrentum 148. Su Suergiu 365. Sutera, 292. — , Pizzo di 292. Suvero, Capo 224. Sybaris 214. 219. Symaethus 349. Syraco 363. Syracuse 350.

Achradina 356. Agathocles , house of

361. Altar of Hiero 358. Amphitheatre 357. 358. Aqueducts 357. Ara 357.

Aretlmsa,Fountain 355. Belvedere 360. Bouleuterium 356. Bufardeci, Giard. 357. Buffalaro 360. Capuchin Monastery

362. Catacombs 362. Cathedral 354. City Wall 357.

Syracuse: Cyane, Fountain 364. Due Fratelli 363. Ear of Dionysius 359. Epipolse 357. Euryelus 360. S. Giovanni 362. Grotta di Nettuno 363. Harbour, Great 356. — , Marble, 356. — , Small 361. 351. 356. Labdalon 361. 357. Latomia de' Cappuccini 362.

— Casale 362.

— del Filosofo 360.

— del Paradiso 358. 357.

— Santa Venera 359. Leon 361. Library 355. S. Lucia 361. St. Marcian 362. Market (Agora) 356.358. Monte Crimiti 357. Museum 355. Neapolis 357. Nymphseum 359. Olympieum 364. Ortygia 354. 356. PalEestra 357. Palazzo Montalto 356. PasseggiataAretusa 355. Pentapylon 356. Pisma 364. Polichne 364. Prytanenm 356. Scala Greca 363. Sineechia 360. Street of Tombs 359. Telegraph, the 361. Temenites 357. Temple of Diana 356.

— of Minerva 354. Theatre, Greek 359. Thymbris 361. 357. Timoleonteum 356. Tomb of Archimedes

363. _ of Platen 362.

— of Timoleon 363. Town Wall 357. Tyche 357. Villa Landolina 362. Wall of Dionysius 361.

357.

Taburno, Monte 204. Tagliacozzo 182. Tagliavia 289. Tammaro, river 206. Tanager 207. Tanagro 207.

Tanaro, river 192. Taormina 327. Taranto 210 Taras 210. Tarentum 210. Tarracina 13. Tarsia 219. Tauromenium 327. Taviano 203. Tavolara 365. Tavole Paladine, le 2G9. Tavoliere della,Puglial93.

195. Teano 6.

Teanum Sidicinum 6. Teate Marrucinorum 186. Tegiano 207. Tegianum 207. Telegrafo, the (Capri) 156.

— di Marecoccola 152. — , near Messina 321. 313. — , near Palermo 269. — , near Sorrento 151. Telese 204. — , Lago di 204. Telesia 204. Tellaro, river 306. Temo, river 865. Tempio 373. S. Teodoro 390. — , grotto of 310. Tenna, river 189. Teramo 190. S. Teresa 326. Terias 349. Terlizzi 197. Terme 93. Termini (Sicily) 290.

— (Massalubrense) 150.

— di Castro 312. Termoli 191. Terni 177. Terra di Bari 176.

— di Lavoro 7. 15.

— d'Otranto 176. 200. Terracina 13. Terranova (Sard.) 373.

— (Calabria) 214.

— (Sicily) 304. Terrasini 277. Terzigno 10. Teverone 181. Thapsus 350. Tharrus 372. Therasia 324. Thermae Himerenses 290.

— Neronianae 98.

— Segestanae 279.

— Selinuntinae 28S. Thermissa 324. Thurii 214. Thymbris 357. Tiberio, Villa di 156.

INDEX.

Tifata, Mons.9.

Tifernus 192.

Tigliana, La 151.

Tindaro, Capo 311.

Tiriolo 220.

Tirso 373.

— , the 365. 372.

Tissa 333.

Tissi 374.

Tito 208.

Tolerus 1.

Tommaso Natale 276.

Tonara372. 376.

Torano 219.

Tordino, river 190.

Torino di Sangro 191.

Tornimparte 178.

Torralba 373.

Torre Annunziata 111.

— Cerchiara 214.

— di Chiunzo 160.

— de' Conflni 15. dell' Epi tafia 15. del Filosofo 348. di Gaveta 102. di Gerace 217. del Greco 110. di Grifo 345. de' Legni 286.

— del Marcello 350.

— Masdea 221.

— di Melissa 214.

— di Milo 219.

— d'Orlando 18. de' Passeri 186.

Torrecuso 204. Torrelifo 345. Torremare 209. Tortoreto 190. Tovere 171. Trabia 290.

Tragara, Punta 155. 159 Traina, Foresta di 335. Tramonti, Val 160. Trani 197. Trapani 285. 228. Trappeto 277. Trebisacce 214. Tre Castagni 332. Tre Fontane 302. Tre Fratelli 146. Trejenta 375. Tremestieri 326. Tremiti Islands, the 191. Trepuzzi 202. Trerus 1. Tres Tabernae 11. Trevi, Monte 12. Tricarico 209. Tricase 203. Triglio, il, 212. Trigno, river 191. :

Trinacria 225.

413

Trinita della Cava 162. — della Delia 280. Trinitapoli 196. Trinius 191. Triocala 289. Trionto, river 214. Tripi, Pizzo di 311. Trivigno 209. Trogilus 350. Troja 206. Troina 301.

Tronto, river 189. 190. Tropea 221. 224. Trotilon 349. Truentus 190. Tufo 175. Tumolo, Capo 168. Tunis 381. Tuoro Grande 156. Turris Lybissonis 375. Taturano 202. Tyndaris 311.

Uggento 203. Umberto - Margherita,

Monte 344. Uras 372. Uria 213. Ururi 191. Usini 374. Ustica 276. Uta 371. Utica 386. Uxentum 203.

Vaglio 209. Vairano 6. S. Valentino 186. Valetta, la 378. Valguarnera 301. Valle del Bove 348. di Bovino 206.

— di Diano 207.

— di Maddaloni 204.

— de' Molini (Amalfi) 171.

delle Pigne 151. [— di Pompei 160.

— dei Porci 269. Valledolmo 298. Vallelunga 298. Valmontone 1. Valsavoia 349. Valverde 332. Vandra, river 185. Vandria 185. Varano 189. Vasto 191.

— d'Aimone 191. Vaticano, Capo 224. Velino 177.

I—, Monte 182. — , river 177. 190.

414

INDEX.

Velitrae 11. Velletri 11. Venafro 186. Vena/rum 186. Venere, Monte 331. Venetico 313. Venosa 195. Ventotene 14. Vehusia 195. Verbicaro 223. Vergine, Monte 175. 325. Veroli 2. Verulae 2. Vervece 149. Vesevus, Mons 113. Vespasia 177. Vesuvius, Mount 112. Vettica Maggiore 173.

— Minore 171. 173. Via Appia 12. 201.

— Campana 97.

— Cumana.97.

— fferculea 98.

— Latina 1. 5.

— Puteolana 97.

— Valeria 181. Viagrande 332. Vibinum 206. Vibo Valentia 221. Vico 193.

Vico Alberi 152.

— Alvano 152.

— Equense 146. Vicus Aequensis 146. Vido 387.

Viesti 193. Vietri 163. Vigliano 178. Viglio, Monte 187. Villa S. Giovanni 218. 222.

— Grazia 273.

— Jovis 156.

— Lusciano 97.

— Nuova 372. Villabate 289. Villafrati 289. Villalba 298. Villanova Tulo 376. Villarosa 299. Villasor 371. Villazzano 149. Vinchiaturo 192. Vinius 4.

S. Vitaliano 174.

S. Vito, Capo (Taranto)

210. (Sicily) 277.

— Lanciano 191.

— d'Otranto 200. S. Vittore 6.

Vittoria 304. S. Vittorino 180. 190. Vitulano 204. Vivara 104. 105. Volcanello 324. Volcano 324. Volturno, river 7. 186. 204. Vomano, river 190. Vomanus 190. Vomero 82. 89. Vulcania 324. Vulcaniae 323. Vulture, Monte 194.

2Liphonia 350. Xirbi 298.

Zafferana, Capo 276. — (.Etna) 348. Zagarolo 1. Zambrone, Capo 224. Zancle 233. 315. Zannone 14. Zapulla, Fiumara 310. Zimbra 380. Zimbretta 380. Zisa, La 267. Zolfare 299. Zollino 202. Zucco 277.

Leipsic: Printed by Breitkopf ife Hartel.