CHAPTER XH ACROSS THE SALT RANGE With Dera Ismail Khan ended GandhijYs tour of the trans-Indus districts of the North-West Frontier Province, Leaving Dera Ismail Khan in the afternoon we entered upon the last lap of the tour. Gandhiji was anxious not to extend his tour a day further than absolutely neces- sary into the month of Ramzan. The punctilious care with which our Mussulman hosts throughout the tour and Badshah Khan and his Old Guard of the Khudai Khid- matgars looked after the feeding and other creature-com- forts of Gandhiji and his party while they themselves fasted, made Gandhiji all the more determined to apply in his own case the principle of noblesse oblige. He made- a feeling reference .to it in the course of his talk with the Khudai Khidmatgars in a small way-side village where we halted for our midday meal later. " It has touched me deeply and also humbled me to find/' he ob- served, " that at a time, when owing to the Ramzan fast, not a kitchen fire was lit in the whole of this village of Mussulman homes, food had to be cooked for us. I am. past the stage when I could fast with you as I did in South Africa to teach the Mussulman boys who were under my care to keep the Ramzan fast. I had also to consider the feelings of Badshah Khan who had made my physical well-being his day-and-night concern and who would have felt embarrassed if I fasted. I can only ask your pardon."" The rest of the journey was a mad rush. We covered over one hundred miles on the first day, striking out into the interior to take in the village of Paniala, ten miles from the main road. Evening had already fallen when we reached Mirekhel and the roads were barricaded. Tra- velling on this section of the road was not considered safer and no traffic was permitted after 4 p.m. But Badshah 111