298 AMONG THE YEZIDEES fore sundown, and returned to Katie, who was sound asleep. I was feeling remorseful about Daoud. As a matter of fact I had cursed him with every foul word I knew in Arabic and the few English ones I thought he would understand; so I had him sent for and let him superintend our dinner and share it with us—tinned stuff from our own basket, supplemented by a big bowl of mutton stew from the kitchen downstairs, and more beer which he sent a little rag-tailed girl running to get. He had brought in a low table, and we sat on our cots. He was happy to be restored to favor, and promptly annoyed us by throwing bones, cucumber peelings, sardine tins, and other litter on the floor. But he knew the cus- toms better than I, for when we had finished, the boy came again with water-jar and broom, cleaned up the debris, deluged the floor a second time, and swept it out thoroughly. We expected to be bothered by bugs—but as a matter of fact both of us were so tired that an army of them couldn't have kept us awake. At Deir the river made a great loop northward, and instead of following it next morning, we struck out cross- country, so that the day's run was real desert, hard gravel and clay, sometimes level, sometimes broken by gullies and ridges so abominably rough that we had to low- speed. The sun beat down until the leather cushions and the metal braces of the car-top were so hot it was painful to touch them. A wind like the breath of a furnace blew from the south. I had been in knickers and shirt-sleeves, but had to put on my coat, preferring to be dry-baked than grilled. Katie had long since been forced to put