CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

FOREWORD xv

PREFACE xxi

INTRODUCTION xxiii

I. A PROPITIOUS START AND AN EARLY

CHECK i

Embarkation — Disembarkation — The need for secrecy —
Trouble in the Interior-My plans unfolded—My envoys
leave.

II. AT DHUFAR: ANARCHY, TREACHERY AND

HOSPITALITY 8

The settled tribes of Dhufar - History of Dhufar - Tribal
anarchy-Hegemony of Sultan established — Arrival of a
tyrant-A tyrant rules and his sons are murdered — Order
restored - Arab instability - A visit to Salala — A Asocial
function-Giant ancestors - The price of freedom—A
negro dance — The Bathing Chorus.

III. SKULL-MEASURING AND DEVIL-DANCING 22
Racial types— Pre-Islamic^-Ciyilisatioixs- A father's skull -
Taking head-measurements — Social distinctions — A war-
rior's pride, and his needs — The Governor of Dhufar — The
'unco guid' in Arabia—Exorcism —Negro customs—Insti-
tutions of slavery—Mourning ceremonies-The dance of
the slave girls —The climax—The evil spirit is exorcised.

IV. IN THE QARA MOUNTAINS: 'AIN AR RIZAT 36
Hunting prospects - Preparation of specimens - Earlier clY.il-
isatjons— Ancient graves-A son of the free—Offerings to
spirits— Pagan cults- Lying, picking and stealing— A cour-
ageous collector- Evil spirits- Sitting up for hyena.