SANAA 73
caravan-traffic flows towards Dhamar, Yerim and Ibb. There is not much doing this way since the bulk of Ottoman troops rolled up from that direction in 1913.
Strategically, the most important gateway of the whole city is the triple port of Bab es-Sba, a name given to three adjacent gates, two of which face north and south, on either side of the narrow neck that joins the quarter of Bir al-Azab to the main town, about five hundred yards apart. The third is a massive central arch, crowned and flanked by a strong guard-house and quarters for troops and police. Through this arch, which is almost a tunnel, runs the road joining the native town with the Ottoman quarter of Bir al-Azab—this side of the arch still bears the mark of cannon-shot, a memento of street fighting. Close to the town entrance of this central gateway is the Municipal Pharmacy, where you may get a prescription made up with some approach to accuracy, if you write in French and keep an eye on the dispenser. In the same direction, toward the northern gate of Bab es-Sba, is the Military Hospital— a fine building, under sound discipline and supervision.
Passing through the middle gate one comes out onto the broad, open space of Midan esh-Sherara, where troops drill. The low, rambling residence of the Vali is on the right, in a vast, walled garden, and on the left of the Midan is the Government school—a substantial stone building for resident scholars. State education is free throughout Yamen when available at all.
Past the school is the Staff-office or Diwan arkan harb> a two-storeyed house of vague architecture, standing in its own walled grounds, with a sentry at the door. Here receptions are held on state occasions, when the unofficial stranger would do well to present himself in