CONTENTS The Desert Route .... \ An Introduction from Damascus I2 In the Moslem Quarter « > , . , I7 Marie the Armenian „ ^ * * * * *CrO Li/e in the Slum , _ T/ae Making of a Nationalist , ^ * * ^J.A Concerning Smells •.,.,> ^o ^l Chapter of Discord , ( , , t - - Tk Lijfc of jfft JL FisiV m rfie European ami American Ladies in Iraq. Regulations . 79. Concerning Manners . „ , ^ # » 81 J, Syfto Christmas * .. ' • • A^ •* * * « * y,4 Education........9? Ramadan . . . . , , . > I04 .......j vii