FOREXQO.V 245 so arrogant that even the poorest looked a noble lord, the crowd that streamed along the narrow streets of Jhalawar behind the old srrey walls could vie in picturesqueness with the populace of Udaipur. From a house in no wise different from its neigh- bours came loud bursts of cheerful music. ci Is there some festival going on ? "s I asked. " I'd have thought it was too early for a wedding."' My surprise amused the Maharaja. " Xothinq of the kind," he said. "Just go up and have a look. You think it's an ordinary house, don't you ? Well, you'll see that there's a Jain temple inside/" The house, like all the others in the street, stood back from the roadway on a wide platform, on to which I stepped. These spacious thresholds of solid masonry in front of the doorways jut out into the middle of the street, like raised terraces. From where I stood beside the stone door-jamb I saw beyond the darkness of the portico an inner court- yard bathed in sunlight, and a white temple serenely luminous in the morning calm. In the midst of a little courtyard paved with sun-bright flags, framed in the pillared darkness of a cloister two huge stone elephants twice life-size stood face to face, guarding the entrance of the shrine. Their trunks uplifted in salute shored up the golden pediment. The band whose lively strains I had heard when I was in the street a moment past was playing now a slow, soft melody. On my left, out of sight in the cool darkness underneath the covered gallery, a choir of children was chanting liturgic psalms. Now and again a deeper voice broke through the thin, shrill chant, which for a moment paused while someone, presumably a teacher, spoke a few words of expla- nation, slowly articulated with an obvious effort to