Medan, 17 July, 1937.

Mr. ¥.M.Mann
G/O-. U.S.Con@dul

Mie dan.

Dear Sir, .

a
In reply to your enquiry of yesterday we have pleasure
“quoting you as follows:

500 Kg. bananas = 60 bunch ad. £.0.70 in four stages of develop= é pa
ment ® @ a
longstring beans (kadjang pand,j ang) terete 10.<-'
white sweet potatoes (obie roomed " 50e-=|
ereen comn on the cob * * 0428 tee
shel led Indian corn, dried : aoe ae | 20.--—
papaya : 0.08 p/pe . Doms
coarse salt co, MO Se 2.20
' dried peas (kadjang idjoe) © Oe et ey
dozen hen's eggs 1.5.00 p/100 pe. GOy~e
) Kee peanuts | 1 x —
Brass suitable for cattle feed.fresh “"" 0,.0- G.-=
" onions large . m8 0. 2 : | 5 ae

Fraight Medan/Belawan ei. Pcl

Total + | £,244,20

ye trust to be favoured with your esteemed orders, which
shall receive our very best attention,

Yours faith

January 12, 1937

est night I thought that all the packing was done, except
for putting our toothbrushes in a suitease at the last moment.
But as I went eround the house gathering up all the little odds
and ends thet I could not besr to leave behinc, the contents of
the suitcase swelled and swelled. When I finally had everything
packed to the stege where not enother ounce could be squeezed in
Bill ceme home with three volumes of Indo-Austrelian Reptiles
and they h:d to go in, too,

The telephone end the door bell rang incessently. Mergeret
Gellespie dropped in for a monent, and went out on a moneypchenging
errand. Fay came, end took me to the bank to store silver, went
over to Sidts to get me a hot.dog, and fixed a c~rrage and a
rossry with equel efficiency. Pep end Deb cailed for us at
gua.ter to three and drove us to the Geographic, where we seid
good-bye to McKnew and Gilbert Grosvenor, and then to the train,
where we arrived at least an hour ehead of time.

Just as the train wes about to pull out, newspapeer photo-
grsphers arrived, and took flashlight pictures of us standing on
train steps, with me trying to show off the corsage of brown —
orchids which the Clarks hed sent me.

January 16.

Arrived in Chicago at 8.15. Had a second breakfast in
the station, where we were joined by Fren. Went to the Field
Museum, and sew Gerhard, Stenley Field, and Dr. Sims. Ned Clark
took us to the Stevens for lunch. Then over the Shedd Acuariun,
where we spent some hours, partly to see the fish and Chute,
partly to keep out of the sleet and rein thet was blowing over
the town. Dinner with Carl Schmitt and Cherles at the Union
Station, end departed on the Northern Pacific at ll P. M.

Januery 14 Ne: .
Woke up in Minnesoée. All efternoon crossing the pleins

of North Dekota, where the snow had been blown in ridges the a.

Looked exactly like ocean waves. White-ceps and all. The iViuston: 3.

was heightened toward dusk, when the shadows were blue, end the -

snow looked more like wea water than ever, stretching illimitably

toward the horizon.

y

Januery 15

Woke up in Montana. Ken Reeves, Jane and Roy Spencer met us at the
train in Livingston about 8.20. Mr. Reeves got on the train and
rode with us es fer as Logan, an hour or so later. At Butte Jay
Smith got on, and hed lunch with us, leaving us et Deer Lodge.

As we crossed the Continental Divide, end saw the spectaculer
stretches of snow-covered mountains, I wondered why Bil] had ever
left his netive state. he train went through Garrison, end I
was thrilled to see the country in which Bill renched as a boy.

Jenuery 16

Woke up in Weshington, Heavy snow covered the Cascedes
and loeded the great pine\trees with armfuls of white. e

ne 3
ae 5 ‘ = P oe ae

=o

seattle about nine, and found the day cold and crisp, with a light fall
of snow under foot. Telephoned Fride and Helen Croonquist, but were
uneble to find either of them, Went out to the Zoo, and spent all

ey with the Knudsens, mostiy in his office, as it wes cold and slushy
end we were efraid of aggravating the colds we hed sterted out with.
My principle view of Seattle was of a row of veterinary instruments in
a case, but we had a nice time, and caught a train at five for Van-
couver,.

¢ Ce

The train wes a jerkwater contreption, especially irksome efter
the marvelous service given by the Northern Pecific, and was necrly
two hours Iste reaching Vencouver, where we got a room at the
Vancouver Hotel (#8) end sank gratefully into e bed that did not
jiggle us through the night.

e
i

Januery 17.

A cleer, sparkling cold dey. Welked down to he dock to make
sure the Fmpress of Asis was there. lLunched at the Georgie Hotel and
especialiy enjoyed the Ontario cheese. Spent the afternoon loafing in
our room, pleying two-handed bridge, playing tag to work up electric
snocks off the deep carpet, and drinking contraband liquor.

Januery 18.

Walked down to dock to meke sure Fmpress still there, Lunch
with Mr. Sigmore (a native) at the Vencouver Hotel, enc then a drive
around Stenley Perk with Mr. Wootten, Park Commissioner. The Park
wes glorious, surrounded by the ocean, backed by the mountains, and
full of snow-covered pines end cedars. Tea with Mr. end Mrs. Wootten
at their home, Dinner with M.0.W. at Vo. Hotel.

Janusry 19.

Up before davlight, packed, breekfasted, and reached the
steamer at 8,40. All morning was spent losding, the cargo being
unusually heavy on eccount of the strike, auantities of U. €. Mail
taken aboard. Although we wre supposed to sail et ll, it was 1
before we pulled out. A record of Suzy, the orang-outang, bleating
for amate, wes handed us just before we left. It had come by sir mail,
labeled with instructions to hendie carefully "Sex is the Issue", and
we were phodtographed on the forwerd deck eccepting this ridiculous
bit of publicity. |

Januery 20 - 24

Calm days, smmoth seas, moderete weether. Played a little
ping-pong, a little shuffleboerd end less deck tennis. Met the Proctors
of Santa Rosa, the Fishers of Hong-Kong,ami the Youngs of Shengheai
and the Cullings of Bangkok, At our table are M.0O.¥. and Wm. Todd,
horsetrainer of Honolulu.

Januery 25

Came past Diamond Heed into Honolulu just at daybreek, and
docked about eight ofclock. The Royel Hawaiian Band was there to play

Ca

to us, end our friends met us, each with leis of carnations,
candlewick flowers, end ea lovely lavender legume. F. ¥,. Williams took
us uptown to the benk, the oculistts and the milliner, then we all,
and Mr. Fulleway, went out to the Bishop Museum, where Mr. Bryan, the
curator, showed us around until nearly noon. The Museum is devoted

to Polynesian exhibits exclusively, end there were wonderful relics

of earlv days in the South Seas. King Aamwotlm S Throne and crown
meade one wonderful exhibit, and the feather cloak and helmet of

kas Vane were another. fre Two of the three birds most exten-
sively used for this feather work cre now extinct, the oo and the

Tt has been estimeted thet 80,000 birds were needed for one big yeelow
cape that we sew. .

We lunched et the Waikiki Tevern, and I had pineapple and Ulue,
a local fish. Then to the Aquerium, which is small but tremendously
interesting. One wing is given over to food fishes, but for the most
part the fish seem to be collected and exhibited for their gorgeous
color. One brillisnt tank was a collection of Samoan reef fishes,
bright blue, derker blue, yellow dorsels, - gndescribable colors. .
Spiny lobsters,spineless lobsters, sea urchins, sterfishes, hermit
crabs with anemones living on them, end octopi were interesting sights.
Four octopi in one tank put on ean amazing show, fighting, swimming, —
changing color, from almost white to derk brown, and ail their tentacles
snd suckers working like mad, until I literelly got gooseflesh all
over my erms just wetching them.

After a look st the fgricultural Fxperiment Station,&the Sugar
Plenters Association Mrs. Fullawey drove us up to the Pali, with
probably the most gorgeous view of any mountain pess in the world.

At 1200 feet it looks out over mounteins, sea and sky, with constantly
changing cloud and color effect, - simply too peautiful. On. our way
beck we stopped at the Hildebrand Gardens, end admired all the botani-
cal specimens, liking especially the old banyan trees and the orchid
collection. One yellow, fringe-petetled orchid was called the Butter-
fly. We ate a small red fruit celled Surinam cherry, and saw cup of
gold, ginger, and so meny other tropical plants new to me that I gave
up trying to learn their names.

Mr. Fullaway, M.O.”. and I went swimming from the Outrigger
Cenoe Club et Waikiki Beach. The air was cool, but the water warm.
Hunks of coral underfoot, beach shellow, breekers e querter of &
mile out on the reef. While we swam, Bill went to the Zoo, which he
says is smell, unusually clean end nice, with very lerge cages, grass
growing in most of them. It is to be enlarged and turned into 46n
aviary. The present bird collection contains four species of hornbill,
two of Peradise birds, tantile stork, Java fruit pigeons, Leedbeeter'ts
cockatoo, breeding Hawaiian geese, crowned pigeons and Jeva jungle
fowl. The Philippine hornbill put food in the keeper's mouth, flew
up and down et command. Nice collection monkeys, two lions.

Sukiyaki dinner st beach Club. All tre Hewsiien entomologists
and their wives had been gethered together, and it was a lovely perty,
eating outdoors, watching the full moon over the water. Ceme back to
the stezsmer a little after nine, and sailed et ten-thirty, to the
accompaniment of Aloha from the Royel Hewaiiens, pink, green end purple
serpentines, lights twinkling from the town behind. As we left the
harbor, we threw out leis overboard, so they would floet back to Hono-
lulu, as we hope to do someday ourselves.

Ree

Behind all the gaity of welcoming and speeding the Fmpress and
her passengers, was the strein of the three-months! shipping strike.
At the wharf we saw the President Pierce, the President Heys, and
the Lurline, all of which heve been tied up for months. On the
Doller boats the Chinese crew are not ellowed any shore leave, and
on one of the President boats the poor Chinese heve not set foot
ashore since last September. Why murder end mutiny have not broken
out I cantt imegine.

Among the women in Honolulu whom we met, the chief topic of
conversetion was the high price of oranges and lemons. Orenges ere
$1.50 a dozen, lemons $1.00. Ndther of these fruits can be reised

in the Islands on account of the Mediterreneen fruit fly, and with

shipping practically et ae standstill, there ere none in the market

even at these high prices,

Janusry 26-27

Quantities of albatross are following the ship, and give a
fascineting displey of gliding over the waves and through the spray.

Januery 28.
No albatross

Januery 29 - No such dete: We cross the International Date Line
and have no Fridav in this week,

January 2&0.

The albatross are back, a few terns with them. Williams got some
movies of them. Bill and I went up to the bridge to see what was
the closest island, end found thet we were between Midway end Weke,
a little nearer to Midway, end probably te birds heve come some
three hundred miles over the ocean from there.

Weather still fine. The mesquerade ball wes held on the
after deck, under a full moon. Just as it wes about to begin,
the ship wes prectteatiy stopped for sboewk helf en hour, while an
appendectomy wes performed on one of the Chinese crew.

Jf uth (Loe Rab Ataute pad weathnn alt the ray, Mute
Hep an aptem h pew ale ae Rn yta Dex Macy -

_ We hec had verious warnings sbout the difficulties we would
have in Japan. We had been told thet the climate wes bad. the coffee
foul, the photographic limitations irksome, the conveyances and
eccomodations dirty. None of these proved to be true, The customs
reguletions erestrict, end we had to list on our decleretions the
number of books we were bringing in, titles, etc., and “if unbounded
the number of pages;" also the number of rhinoceros horns snd 7
stones. . it was also 6 little disturbing to learn about the Jepenese
baggege express, which promised to collect beggege end"send it in

eil directions", I did feel a little diffident epout stepping off
the good old British Empress . -

sS, end facing an Oriental] ole of w
ee a : : s ; s ¢ ei people of whom
I knew so little, but we never hed one moment in which to feel

=

=
r

i
cn
i

strenge or ill et ease.

To begin with, Fujiyeme welcomed us. essoned travelers told

@ us thet only very occasicnally wes it possible to see Fuji from
the harbor, but we ewekened to hear enthusiestic voices in the
corridor crying, "Have you seen Fuji?" - end dressing es hastily
as possible we went out on deck in the cleer, crisp dawn to see
the great snow-crowned cone rising out of the clouds across the
bay. Mist obscured it for a while, and then licter the sun shone
once more on the perfect mountain, and we hed one more brief glimpse
oT 2% 3

Before we were ashore, Dr. Koge, Director of the Tokyo 400, was
on hand to welcome us. He brought us é letter from Dr. Keawemure,
who wes sorry not to be there, too, put hoped to see us leter on.
Dr. Koga, a tall, almost Indien-looking Jepanese, lea us out through
the customs, end into @ car, and drove us ofit of Yokoheme to Tokyo,
ebout fifteen miles, through the most intricate traffic imegineble.
Bicycles by the thousancs were weaving al.ng the road, pedestriens,
men pulling certs, oxen, trucks end motor cars of ail kinds, mede
5 meze thet no American criver could heve worked through with any
remaining vestiges of senity. I held my breath almost ail tne
wey to the Imperiel Hotel, bus fimadiy decided that self-suffocation
woulda eventuelly be as fstel as the crssh th t never seemed to
materielize, and let the cheuffeur worry ebout the reffic.

We hed « short look at the femous, esrthauske proof hotel, end
| then went with Dr. Koge to the 400. rirst we went into his ofiice
| end darenk Little bowls Of vety ,0b tea,and undcerstooa why tne Japan-
| & ese innaie it - it you take im enous soo, sir with the hot liquic
vou don't get burnt! Then we walked erounc Perk, whben wes
much Lé snd hendsomer then we hea expected. In addition Co a
Lovely waterti: id gercéens end

r

ting, witn little. streem
: ro ae oe yoo) by ag 6

t Le / Sone c eee Ly 5 al

LOM. OL eric LS 89 Le
with which we were pnoto-
bnet was @ present 10H tne Boy. Scours

10 sen for children, and the books more then
the yerr. February 4th is e holicey end the

“< ‘ 9
r ~s ae | 2 4, ~ een rs at “ my _ WE ITN cal
women were lovely in their. kimonos, ena most
bies on their backs.

We hed e Europesn lunch et Selyoken, @ fine restaur nt in
Ueno Park. Then we went beck to Koga'ts office, end were joined by
Dr. Yatsu, of the Imperial University, snd Dr. Oksde, .the herpetoto-
gist. At each errivel we hea another cup of ter, then we went to
the University, which is composed of big, modern buildings, saw

some of the leboratorgés anc the suditorium, and then drove to ¢the
Meiji Shrine, where we welkea about helf « mile through the most
pesutifully csred for perk, went wnder the enormous torii, end
wached our hands before approaching the chrine itself. We bowed

%..
ee PRs Ae Tees tome aay Bae eS Ps ape Se Sg ea Ct oe i aed Sol ea 4 1 ~ “ ae -
and weited while our Jepenese friencs orevyed, and then drove beck to

the town.

~

We were taken to Mimatsu, which on the ground floor is a fairly

& Furopeen tes-room. After we hed had tee, we went upstairs, where the
second floor hes been mede to look like a Jeupenese tee house, with
stonex waiks, rather damp,plants, end innumereble little indivicuel
rooms. Into one of these went, first taking off our snoes (and of

r

20 aq 2 in imtet Tie Oe a 7 Aan i semi wee
course I had a hole in my stocking toe)... The floor was covers Kith

nn oer

nd the wells (fusome ) were sliding panels.
‘or us to sit on, and the first course was
ved in littie strew beskets, for us to
eprnese girl, who refused to "be amused et \
z Nee esto sukiakix, prepered the pn Y Lymer
eel, eh er was eee on the te ‘ble in front of us - thiniy sliced
beef, mushrooms, greens, bamboo Euray shoots, bean curd, leeks, and
other unguessable ingredients. With it we drenk warm seaki from little
bowls.

Although we hed had ea as dey we still had zest for a welk
through the Ginza at night, when this thoroughiy metropoiitan
Mein Street is Lined with tittle stells like a county feir, eech
man melling his owmm weres - eee shoelaces, ptenree tn: slbums,
oe rubber Be WSs, ares ee curious Ba eg of drift-

| mee
:
f W
© steaming h
he
eo ate

n
S

Februery 5. Tokyo.

Dr. Koga celled for us early in the morning and we were teken
to the estate of Prince Taka eleers) and shown his evicry. He had
meny species of peroquets, pigeons, end phessants, all nicely
housed and meé a of them nesting. Then the Prince took us to
Ko Ho Kwan (The Meple Club) a perfectly exquisite Jepenese house,
so delicate and fragile, with its Lovely polished woodwork, its
shoji and fusoma and tetami, thet 1 felt like an Ox 4s I scuffed
along in feit bedroom slippers. Beyona wes a gerden, with rocks
and pines, and below us e view of tiie city of Tokyo.

& The lunch wes the formel Jeprnese meel, with innumereble courses
each one consisting of sma ak porti ons of some hitherto-untested
food. We hed tea, first and last,.. soft-shell turtie soup(With a
turtie egg in it), raw ice m, rew cuttlefish, rew tune, seaweed with
herring roe, leeks, on 7o more kinds of seaweed, 2 chicken stew with
bemboo, mushroom, and beencurd, broiled cod with wegetebles, tempure
(sh hrimps fried in better), e stew of shrimps bamboo, peas, end mushe
rooms, soup made of angier tish end eel, rice, pickled redish end
cabbsge, end fineily enormous strawber ri ss and chestnut peste.

After all this, we were still able to meke our way back to
the Zoo, where we ren into two American women, @ Mrs. Holbrook and
Mrs. Tillman Johnson, who strengeiy enough used to be Luelle
Stephen's room-mate. fs EKleenor seys "The world is « smell plece
efter all.”

Back to the Hotel, just in time to be picked up by Lillien
Grosvenor Coviile, who took us out to her charming house for tea,

mner at the Hotel, we e met by Ken

Tater we fed a smell a Hi
1 ITE 2 k in the Ginza.

Okede, Mrs. Holbrook end Mrs. Johnson e-lled for us at the
hotel «nd took us shopping. e went first to the Obi Merket,
where I bought e gorgeous bizck ceremonial kimone for: 15 yen, and
an obi, four yerds of silk brocede, for 10 yen. from there.we
went to Mitsukosh i, the big department store, the most. luxurious
store I have ever seen. Seks-Fifth Avenue cen't hoic a cencle to
its merble-peneleed walls or beautiful displeys. We hed lunch
on the 7th floor in the French Restaurant, end waiked through the

Hire ce BAe ge where there was « greet collection of finche

c
lovebirds, end pe tuets. end the flower department, where dwa
nad pium ees were just coming into bloom, end orenicas

3
pr

fed

cherry were
a alee ae

ne 3 drove to Kemekure
Mureyeme, end e: smell girl celled Junco
long roed to Yokohame, crowded city
ing, then pisetee. eno irove through real
villeges to Kem: £ First we went to
where the Goc oe uy

a
ce
“ine, cninto,
‘6 place £0. pick
-och bedecked

my il
tDd mao,

ior > revered,
to be married in, but
brice.

Mm tao) “=
rome?
<

Then. we smeaee: pug be ose Hoa : the Deibutsu, the enormous bronze
mendously impressive in its
: Little June ‘Oo both: burr led Gs S
before the ap ee hen Okade Said Thet 2 friend of had
behind the shrine, end we went eround to edmire- a 13
eJapenese house, end to drink tea end eat chestmut

iy the evening we went to a dinner given for us by the
stientists a x ere we hed a Buropean meal. 1 was a
dismeyed when went n to find thet I wes the only women wit
twenty men, but pleased when Mrs. Koga showed up. che s
at dinner, bub es she knew not one word of English, we simpiy §
at each other occesionelly, end I edmired her delicate prettiness
Dr. Yetsu was there, wise kedea, Kurode, and a host of other, in-
cluding some entomologic sl students from the University. After
dinner we were shown movies of wild birds in Jepen, and e beer
hunt in Hokkeido.
S sround with us, -inuro-

When we ceme bec at
spout eleven-thirty we
©

be
duced some plotograephers
sterted.cut om a other. pert a ime see some geishe. We
didn't realize when we went thet it meant another sukiyaki party,
as we were so well-fed the very thought of food was distasteful,
but after we hed made a pretense of ci pple our chopsticks into
the centrel cooking pen, end swallowing few morsels of beef
dipped in raw egg, the geisha _appecrec, and were reeily very
cherming. We were encourege ed to examine end edmire their elzebor-
ate costumes and heirdress. They wore stunning jeweled buckles on
the little belt thet ties the obi, and hed veriovus silver cherus
dangling from the obi itself, es well es in their hair. One seemed
a mere child, and Bill, full of enthusiasm end seki, christened: her
"Tittie almond eyes" - «nd everybody wes very friendly end very
happy. Tey 6 danced and sang for us, sat with us, lighting our
cigarettes and pouring our drinks, until after two. One curious
thing about the geisha is the meke-up ghastly white rice powder
all over the face and upper lip, with the lower lip thick with
red lipstick.

To our great surprise, the sweet littie things came home with
us, but as it: turned. out, it wes. simply ¢ hospiteble gesture, and
they all got in 6 car and went home ogein with venturing into the
hotel - where of course they ere not «ilowed.

February @

Had difficulty getting Bill up in time for the train —- passed
him the espirin end celled him "little almond-eyes" - which he
certainly was. However, we maneged to get to the station by nine,
after being up most of the night, and caught the very comfortable
train to Kyoto.

Ali dey long we set with our noses plastered ageinst the
rain-spl=shed window-pane. Part of the time the trein ren along the
coast, where we had the sea with its fishing boats on one side of
us, and the misty mountains on the other. It wes too eloucy to.
see Fuji, though we were at one time very near it. We did see plum-
blossoms in the rain, and orenges, rice fields for mile efter mile,
gay peper umbrellas (whet e feat it must be to ride a bicycle with
getas on one's feet and am parasol in one hand!), and fields of
tea bushes, shaped and trimmed as neatly as so many box hedges.

At four in the afternoon we reached Kyoto, and made for the
Miyako Hotel. We were mildly surprised that evening to fina the
dining-room on the fourth floor, but simply amazed to look out of
the window end find a lovely Japenese garden, weter fails ana ell.
The hotel is built smeck up against the mountain side, and the
garden is ywiewewxykxrom the fourth floor.

on a level with

In the evening we took a taxi down to Shinmozen, the touris
shopping street, lined with fescineting little shops selling silk,
Damascene, lacquer, porcelain, prints, cloisonne, - all the weres
end crefts of Japan. Bill went in heavily for silk shirts, and
blew himself to a stunning kimono of ribbed navy biue siik.

Februeryv $8 — Kyoto.

Dr. Komei, zoologist of the Imperial University, cailed on
us at tenpthirty. To my great delight he brought his wife with
him, and she spoke beeutiful Engiish, and we becseme greet friends.
She is the only Jepenese woman I met who knew any English ét ell,
snd it wes lots of fun to have a little feminine conversation, aiter
all the stag perties I had been to. We went to the Zoo, then to
the University. The Zoo is not es attractive és Tokyo, but very
good, with meny interesting things, such @s black swens nesting,
breeding hippos, a record of fiftv lion cubs born, @ cage with
three Japanese beers end one lion, all very tame. he Director,
Mr. Nageto, spoke prectically no English, but was very affable.

The Komaig took us to their home (foreign style) for lunch,
and we had a delicious meal. Meet end various vegetables were
artistically arrenged in a Korean chercoal burner which wes set on
the table, and we ate quantities of good "stew" with seperete bowls
of rice. Mrs. Komei hed a pretty garden, with oranges on a tree,
red. camelliss in bloom, and tulips and other spring bulbs coming
up.

After lunch Mrs. K. took us to see some of Kyoto's femous
temples. We ssw the Buddhist temple of Gingekuji, the tilver
Pavilion, where a number of old paintings «re on exhibition, a
smell shrine contianing an imege of the Emperor whose estate it
once wes, end saw the originel ceremonial tez room, four and @

half tatemis, with a square hole sunk in the middle of the fioor
for the charcoal to heet the weter for tea. We sew Heian temple,
with its beautiful garden, where every stone end tree has @ neme
of its own, end where one crosses the pools on curious round
stepping stones. Then we went to Chionin Temple, which is surround-
ed by a wide wodden verandch, every board of which saqvweks. "If you |
walk quietly," our Buddhist guide told us, "you will heer the
nightingsles singing underneath." Avid 56 & matter of fact, the
chirping of the boards was not mmkkkexxa un-bird-like.

That evening the mayor of Kyoto gave a dinner for us at
Okinatei (The Old Men). He himself wes not present, but his
secretery was, also the Minister of Educetion, 4 representative of
the Tourist Bureey, and Mr. Negeto. We hed sukivyaki, and saki,
and geisha, and « very pleasant end dignified evening.

February 9. Kyoto.

Went for a welk, and did some more shopping in Chinmozen.
Went into Nomura'ts silk store, more to see his famous old brocedes
i beeutiful screens tha: to buy, but picked up a pair of brocede
and and a few furoshiki, and Bill bovght two Fuji silk shirts.

After lunch we hired e cer, and drove to Nare, about thirty
, b “

miles through lovely country, end little villages where the roed
wound between tiny houses end shops th-t were so close together
you could almost touch them on both sides.

Nere itself needs a week or more, instead of e couple of
hours, We hed a cleer, sunny afternoon, and the feeling of peace
snd auiet thet pervades the old, old forests was simpiy indescriba-
ble. We did see the Todaiiji Temple, where the big Daibutsu sits,
bigger even than Kamekure but less impressive beeusse it is indoors
end surrounded with a little too much in the way of gilt lotus
plants end dengling decoretions.

Then we went in search of the tame deer, end found them
in a park leading to a shrine where there are literelly thousends
of stone lanterns. | Whet en effect there must be when the lanterns
are all lighted, as they are once or twice 4 yeer! The deer were
emberessingly tame, almost knocking one down in their eagerness to
est the little rice cekes thet we bought to give. Ther would stand
up and put their front legs on your chest, push their noses into
your pocket, or give your belt e firm tug with their teeth. Very
pretty, and in en entrancing setting.

In the evening, back et the Miyeko Hotel, Dr. Keawamure
came to call. We had been hoping to see him ever since we hed
been in Jepan, and enjoyed having e brief visit with hin,

Februery 10. Kyoto,

Accompanied by Dr. Kawamure and his essistant, Mr. Hazeme,
we caught en eerly morning trein for Oseke, a forty-minutes rice
from Kyoto.

With Bill's usual luck, the first thing we sew when we came

05

out of the station into the streets of Osake was e circus tent.

We wanted to desh right in, but it seemed that we were expected at
the Zoo, so we went there first, and submitted to the usual photo-
grephs and interviews. Bill was asked, for the nth tire, how
Japenese Zoos compered with American Zoos, and I wes asked what I
thought of Japenese girls. Our doings ere chronicied daily in

the newspapers, end every opinion we express is aired, usuaiiy with
some ineccurecy, over the radio. We have posed with the Tokyo
elephent, the Kyoto hippopotemus, the Oseka stilt-walking chimpenzee
snd incidentally with a Kyoto geisha girl, but Mrs. Komai tells us
that it wes not a good newspeper but a sort of tabloid that pub-
lished the picture taken in the geisha house,

4
rand

3
62s

The Osake Zoo was, like the others, interesting. It hes
recently been enlerged, and an underground passage connects the new
part with the old. This subwey hes been turned into a small, under-
ground equerium. The Zoo has one giraffe, and @ fine sea-lion pool
with eight sea lions, which the public is ellowed to feed with fish
thoughtfully provided end sold for a sen or two each. This honor
system for feeding the animeis is used in every 200. ine publie,
the enimels and the edministretion all enjoy the benefit. There were
two elephants in a bar-less pit, a good monkey islend, a row of
big cat cages covered with a wistaria treliis, seven sacred cranes,

a treined chimp and three others, a ouakeri, an elbino king sneke -
1500 specimens of 280 species. ind the usual charge, IS sen for

adults, 10 sen for children. (100 sen equals 29 American cents.)

From Oseke we were driven to Koshien, e plece we hac never
heard of, where a most emusing Zoo is mainteined by the Oseke-Kobe
Electric Reilway Co. in a Coney Islend sort of amusement park.

Here ws a monkey island with windmill and rowboats for the Japenese
monieys. A pair of wart hogs proudly displayed their three babies.
Tre chimpanzee had a glass-fronted house, with fireplace, benches,
and other domestic furniture. Thirteen sealions - one big bull -
disported in an enormous pool. The great sight wes the penguin
pool, where there ere about thirty penguins (jackess) in ell stages
from egg to adult. Thirty have. been born here, We photographed
the flock, and then a three-weeks' old baby wes brought out to

have his picture taken. I petted him, and he was es soft as silk.
Below the pool is a glass front, so that the birds can be seen
through the weter, swimming and diving for fish. There were 2d
species of monkey, inciuding dcouroucoulis end woolly enc gibbon,

s treined chimp, a circus wagon cage for performing lions, a Chosen
leoperd. The greatest thrill of eil1 was a pool ebout a hundred
feet in diameter, which contained a live whele, an 11-foot Glo-
biocephalus scemmoni, which feeds on dead squid and spends all

day swimming counter clockwise, anc coming up to blow three times
in each circuit of the pool.

Koshien also has an aauerium, where the tenks ere nicely
arrenged, some of them projecting, rether then having them ail
in a straight line, end sperklingly clean, with coral set in eement
for backgrounds. One of the nicest exhibits wes a flock of

Hypodytes rubripinnis, the Sargassum fish.

ao Be

On our way beck to Oseka, we stopped to call on Mr ., Okada, Awho
has a collection of birds. There were numerous species of lovebirds
and perrekeets, including a new chocolate-brown pudgeriger, which he
had just succeeded in breeding. He head finshes snd pheasents, including
the Mikado phessent, and one of his tinamous head just laid an egg.
He were told that the first cobelt budgerigar sold in Japan for 6,000
yen, and the first white for 10,000 yen

Okede is the lergest seki brewer in Japen, and we saw the brewery,
where saki was in ell steges, from freshly-boiled rice to kegs of the

finishea drink. It is stored, incidentally, in cryptomeria berrels,
the wood of which gives it thet distinctive flavor.

Okada hed a Japanese house and a foreign house, with a little
rock garden between the two. We were invited in to the foreign house,
where we hed tes with chestnut peste cakes, and then coffee. His ten-
year old son was introduced to us as an entomo ogist, end Bill promised
to exchenge beetles with him. We saw some of the lad's collection,
well mounted end well labelied.

Finelly we got back to Osaka, and had e@ brief visit with the
circus. The frame work wes of bamboo poles tied together, end covered
with 2 high-pitched brown cenves. The stage wes in the middle of the
tent; one helf was for the eucience, the other for the performers'
dressing rooms. The stage head various curtains énd beck drops, like a
vaudevilie stage, end indeed the performance, whet we saw of it, wa
1i4ke = slow vaudeville show. We saw a double trap act, a dance, and
a man who stood on his heed on a trapeze “5 feet in tne air. We met
Mr. Ariti, who would be taken for a circus meneager anywhere, clad in
= heavy black broceded silk kimono, with a gold watch chain and @
couple of hunks of jade ecross his bosom. We were served coffeg@, and
the inescepeble photographer turned up to make @ picture of us.

The audience was more interesting than the show. They set on
mats, shoeless, on e high woodén platform thet sloped up towerd the
back of the tent, and gasped and appleuced et the proper spots.

We got back to the hotel about seven, and hed quite a dinner
party, having invited the Komais, Nagato, Kawamura, end Mrs. Osorio
to have dinner with us.

Februery ll - Kyoto.

We had planned to go back to the Zoo this morning, but as it
wes reining we wrote letters until 11.¢0. Then Dr. Kawemura called
for us, and was joined by his son and wife (who brought me a box of
Japenese chocoletes).

To-day is Foundetion Day, a national holidey celebrating the
2597 yeers since the birth of the Empire. It is also New Year's Day
by the old calendar, and hence quite 2 day. The Kawamuras took us
to Hyoteh, a charming little tea house, for lunch, where we sat and
admired the garden just outside the shoji, and ete nine courses, in-
cluding shoots of Equisetum, sagitteria, tai or pream, turtle soup,
crab, tiny trout no bigger than your Little finger,fried crisp,
big trout baked on a bed of selt and pine needles, quail, duck,
lily bulbs, crestnut, radish leaves, bamboo and melon pickle, white-
bait, fish ovaries, and rice,

After Lunch, the s:ostess showed us how the ceremonial tea

ieee iil

2116

is mad Rather lerge crockery bowls are used. They are cleaned with
a sort of bemboo whisk, and wiped with a green siik furoshiki, held
and folded in a certain specified way. Ak pit of powdered green tea
is put in the bowl with a long-hendled wooden spoon, then water added
from the steaming kettle in the middle of the floor, with a long-
handled wooden dipper. The cup is passed to the guest of honor,

who first takes <= bite of cake, then drinks the tea in three end a
half sups, turns the bowl a querter of the way eround, «nd pesses it
back.

We then went to see e Noh pley, the story of a young prince
escaping from his kingdom, and the disguise he undergoes in order to
pass the frontier. The theatre consisted of boxes that held four
cushions, with a brazier in the center, where one may make tea or
smoke cigarettes as the play goes on. There wes also e gallery, where
cheirs hed been placed for us. The stage is in the front, right-hand
corner of the theatre, and so highly polished it reflected the stiff
brocaded costumes of tne ectors. The orchestra and chorus sat on the
stage, the orchestra consisting of three drums and a flute. The words
which ere old Jepanese, as incomprehensible to the rest of the audience
as to us, ere sung in a rather impressive chant, and ali the gestures
are stiff and conventionelized. It wes a most interesting after-
noon, making a picture of color that I will never forget.

Then Dr. Kawamura seid he wanted us to see one more temple, and
we climbed a long hiil, and many flights of stairs, to Kiyomyzu, which
was beautiful in the sunset. Lanterns were lighted, priests praying
silently in the dim interior, and the old buildings, with their ancient
cedar-berk roofs, rounded at the eeves, end moss-grown, indescribably
lovely. Neeyby wes the pagoda of Easy Birth, where women pray, and
fer below us the city with mountains beyond.

February 12 - Kobe.

We caught a train at nine ofclock, that brought us to Kobe ebout
ten-thirty. We were met by Nekato, the animel dealer, who took us
first to his littie shop in town, and then out to his house end fern.
His fether wes the first dealer to import foreign animals into Japan,
and dealt with the Hegenbecks forty yesrs ago. Most of his stock just
now is birds, and he is raising Manchurian cranes from one peir thet he
has hed for 29 yerrs. He feeds them Jepenese snails "to meke the
babies", He also raises red, yellow and blue mecaws, turquoise parra-
keets, end ell sorts of other perraekeets. The Nakato sons took us
to Kikusui for sukiyaki that noon. It is a famous tee house, with
‘each room different, some representing fisher huts, one a geisha
room, one decoreted with cherry, another with bemboo, and so on, They
have a huge collection of old Japanese ermor. And there was a nice
garden, with a little stream and stone bridges ecross it. Because we
were going awey, we ate in the room that represented a boat. A
huge sail covered one end of the room, and a little porch thet
projected out into the garden from our room wes sheped like the prow
of a ship. |

In the e«fternoon we sew the Kobe Zoo, which is
ly interesting for the wey in which it is built on a 3
It is really a three-story Zoo, and long flights of steps leed from
one section to another. Here we were photographed with en indignant
crane thet wes removed from its paddock for pictorial purposes.

m a a

‘Bins, “4 eI,
- %

& § SA
“s ‘ [ i ee aa. * eS . z j os ! ¥ ee * as ae :
% a #. es 4&3 ue © 4 % at. ct & ¥ LS = 6 — 4 is) # % v4

yS_
"Chong kine, chong kine, chong chong kina kine, Yokohama, Nagaseki,
Kobe, Moji, Hei" wes the song we learned at Kikusvui.

Neketo hes a concession in e smail carnivel in Kobe, and we
went there to see his animals. Also at the carnivel were a merry-
go-round with elephants instead of horses, and a huge tin robot,
at whose tummy you threw crockery balls. <If you nit the right spot,

the figure screeched, reised one hend, end stuck out his tongue.

In the evening we dined at Koyokwen, after a most interesting
walk thrcough the Motomachi, a crowded shopping district, where we
bought £emmk pencils ond tabes - the sock with divided toes.

Slept on board the Corfu.

February 12 At Sea

We awoke to find ourselves sailing through the Inkarid Sea, and
spent all day edmiring it. Morning was reiny and misty, but in the
afternoon the sun ceme out, end we were constanly in sight of
mountainous islends, some so close we could almost touch them. Most
of them looked completely barren, but they support a large popule-
tion of fishermen, and there were junks with picturesque dark seils,
close *to us most of the time.

Februery 14 - At Sea

Bitter cold, rough, with snow end hail. Biil has the. fius,
end I got seasick for the first time in my life.

Februery 15 - Shaenghel

Still cold, but calm. We hit the Yangtze River ebout eight
this morning, end the sea turned brown suddenly. It wes one before
we came in sight of land, end then hed a long ride up the "heng FOO,
through flet coutry, «and snnumerable factories end gasoline were- —
houses. We docked about three o'clock, and were met by Mrs. Young,
Viola Smith, Floyd Smith, and Mr. su end Dr. Chen, local scientists.

It was nearly five when we finelly got ashore, and Bill was
pretty shaky, elthough his tempersture hes been normal all day. Mrs.
Young insisted that we come out end stay with them, which we did,
after a short stop at the Cathay Hotel, where Bill hac a bit of
liquid refreshment, while Mrs. Young end I went shopping. For about
#6.50 Americen money, I bought a hand-embroidered nightgown, a slip,
a pair of panties ana a thin broceded silk kimono.

The Youngs drove us out to their very attractive house, in the
International Settlement, and after a bath and @ hap we came down
to a dinner perty. The Smiths, Julian Arnolds, Pere Piel, Consul-
Generai Gauss, en American doctor end his wife, the Sowerbys, Dr.

Ping, and Chen end Su, were all there, and we hed é& delightful evening.

Februery 16 - Shanghel

Hopped out of bed early to see Ch ina by daylight, and my fiTse
thought wes that it looked somewhat like Scarsdale. Big, suburban,

Furopeen houses, with lergep enclosed garden, were alil could see from

our bedroom window.

Bake ye

Immediately after breekfest we started out with Mrs. Young in
her cer. Our first stop was et Tai's Linen Shop, where Biil picked
out some handkerchiefs and I got two ecru linen luncheon sets. The
hednwork on them was beautiful, and Mr. Tei wented to know if I
would like the nepkins monogremmed. I. seid that would be very
nice, but there was not time. However, he assured me thet he could
have them monogrammed, end Bill's hankies es well, and down to the
ship by two o'clock. The two sets came to ebout S11, and the sixteen
monograms were finished, end delivered to us at the customs jetty
at two. :

From Taits we went to the Zoo, e pretty little place, elthough
most of the cnimels were huddled away from the cold, in little houses
well covered with straw and thetch. Floyd Smith met us there, end
took us around. Bill was much interested in a pair of blue sheep that
belong to Smith, and mede a deal to buy them leter on.

Our next stop wes to see Pere Piel, and his Pere Heude Museum.
We sew a mervelous ercheological coilection, of ancient Chinese art,
and also the entomologicel collection, which is housed in the neatest
insect cabinets I have ever seen. It was delightful to see the old
priest, but Bill was feeling pretty shaky, and the museum wes cold
as the Anterctic, so we hurried him away.

We had e brief drive through the native city, pretty depressing
with its endless ecres of poverty, end millions of humen beings living
in hovels end sempens. The water front was lined with junks, meny
of them with enormous eyes painted on the bow, and here,we were told,
thousands of persons live all their lives. Meals were being cooked
snd laundry washed on board the wretched little boats.

We head e momentery glimpse et the Museum of the Royal Asiatic
Society, and saw Mr. and Mrs. Sowerby again. Then we were hurried off
to the New Asia Hotel, where our Chinese friends had planned a
luncheon for us. We hed nine or ten courses of perfectly delicious
food, much tastier to our palates than the rather flat Japanese menus.
There wes roast duck, roest queil, ham, octopus, shrimps, ebalone,
Pekin duck (crisp duck skin served on bamboo curd patties), various
mixed stews of fish or meat with vegetables, three soup courses, one
of shark's fin soup, one of bird's nest (the saliva of swellows) end
pigeon's eggs, end one of mushroom. With it we drank numerous glasses
of Chinese wine, end were disappointed beceuse we he: to rush away
before the rice course in order to meke our boat.

We just made the tender, and sriled at three on the Corfu.

Februery 17 - At sea

From time to time all day we could see fleets of Chinese junks,
some with quite eleborete rigging, and some with one almost square
seil of rice-straw matting. In the morning Bill counted 152 all in
sight at the same time. The islends in thee distance looked desolate
and forbidding, but apparently they support a lerge populetion of
fishermen, |

Februcery 13

In the evening we ceme into Hongkong harbor. When we ceme
up on deck efter dinner, there were thousends of lights twinkling
merrily et us from the mountein side, and the fairy-lend picture was

has.

unforgettable.

It was 9.20 when we docked, and the Naldera, a P.&.0. steemer,
tied up beside us et the seme time. Her band began to pley on deck,
SO our band came out too, end the combination wes interesting.

We hed been warned thet we should have a strict medical inspection,
as we had unwittingly been through e smallpox epidemic in Shanghai,
but it was only a matter of form after all. When we finelly got
ashore it was pretty late, end we had a short walk in Kowloon (the
city on the meinlend, where the docks are) and then went to bed on
the Corfu.

February 19 -— HongKong

Mrs. Fisher, whom we hed known on the Fmpress, met us at the
Peninsula Hotel at nine o'clock, and mede en appointment for Bill
with her husbend's teillor, Wing Fong. We took the ferry over to
HongKong (ten minutes, 10 cents) and walked up to see Wing Fong.
That formality attended to, «nd the suits ordered, Bill and I strolled
about the streets till lunch time, seeing, as he seid, more then we
couid understand. The waterfront is lined with huge, substantial
Office buildings end hotels. A few blocks xmxanyxdirertion away is
the native city, with winding streets, many of them steep as they go
up the mountain side in steps, and shops, shops, shops, with red
and gold and black-and-white benners proclaiming the wares of the
merchants. We went through the municipal market, end in the mest
department sew teel, quail, wild ducks, pheescnts, chicken entrails,
and owls (alive).

Everything from dried snakes to antique jade was displayed
for sale. We saw severel old women with tiny, bound feet, in em-
oroidered slippers. Women with blind children in their «rms followed
us, end held out the baby's hand to us to beg.

We lunched et the Hong Kong Hotel, and were much amused by
the smeil, cocksure bell hops. They were little Chinese boys of
perhaps seven to ten yeers, with red caps, red jackets and black
trousers. Their method of paging guests is superior to ours: the
youngster cerries a blackboard with the name of the person he is
looking for, and rings e smell bell like a bicycle bell, It is
much better than the raucous "Celling Mr. Isaaecstein" thet one hecrs
continually at the New Yorker, for example, 3

The hotel is petronised mostly by Europeens, though I saw
an occasional Chinese lady in the lovely native costume - high coller,
fong skirt split to the knee on both Sides. It gived 4 chermingly
Slender effect to the wesrer. On the streets, both men end women
weer trousers and pyjeme-Like corts. In the hotei I sew one lady
with a long xkxxk of transperent velvet, slit to the knee, and very
fetching. costume Like the Jepanese, they never wear heats, but
the men weer Little round bleck siik ceps.

After lunch we went for e drive sround the Islend. Although
it was cool enough for me to be comfortable in a fur jacket, the
vegetetion was distinetly tropical. hibiscus in bloom, and all
the flowers that we heve in late summer — dehlis-and gladiolus,
marigold and petunie. All the trees were green, and there were many
kinds of palm trees. We drove to Repulse Bay, end hed a drink at
the besutiful hotel which overlooks the sea. Then took the winding

me ee

road thet leads one up the Peek, end gazed out over one of the

great harbors of the world, filled with everv type of vessel, from
junks and sempens to battleships, freighters end big pessenger liners.
Both the Empress of Japan end the E. of Asie were in the herbor.

We went back to Kowloon for tea, end met Mr. ™m. Kershaw,
whom Bill hed once met in Africe. He took us beck to HongKong
so thet I could do a little more shopping, end for about $5 fAmericen
money I bought a nightie, a peir of embroidered pajames, end a slip.
Beautiful handwork, for so little.

We rambied around town a little, visiting a bird store. Bill
asked the price of Java finches, end the man, thinking he wanted to
buy one, ceught one out of a crowded cege, and sterted to put it in
a peper bag for him. It was worth twentycents mex - about seven in
our money.

At lest I had a ride in a ricksha, and =lso one in a sedan
cheir, going up one of the steep side streets thet consists entirely
of steps, and is impessable to automobiles. The rickshe was smooth
easy going, but the chair was rether jiggly.

Mrs. Kershaw joined us for dinner, end afterwerds we came beck
to the bort, end sat «round drinking and telling Knock.Knock" stories,
which ere vying with Little Audrey stories in the Eest.

Februsry 20 - HongKong

We were up early, end met Mr. Herkiots, of the HongKong University
for breakfast on boerd ship. Then we went over to HongKong, end he
took us first to a sneke store, which Bill hed wanted to see. There
were wire ceges out in front, filled with ret snekes, and piles of
heavy wooden boxes in the back of the store. The proprietor opened
one of these, which was swarming with snekes, reached in and grebbed
a cobra by the teil. The sneke rose, and spread, and its heed was
just on e level with the men's eye. I retreated hastily, but the
sneke mede no apparent effort to bite.

From there we wendered through Cat Street, the thieves! market
of Hongkong, where all sorts of curios are for sale. Lt is said. one
cen pick up very good bergains here, if one knows them to see them.

Then we stopped in a restaurant, not to eet, but Ge see tne
supply of giant salemanders on hend. in a wooden tub there were
several live hensakis, swimming ebout end weiting to be eaten.

Our morning was a short one, but filled with gasps of emazement.
Only too soon we had to return to the Corfu, end we seiled at noon.

Februery 24 - Singapore

We head four glorious days at sea. The lest two were fairly werm,
in fact, getting into evening clothes in our cabin, which was always
at tropicsl temperature by night, was something of a struggle. We had
pleasant parties with the Sellers, the purser, the doctor, and the
chief engineer, who produces rabbits out of hendkerchiefs and does other
tricks of magic.

The Corfu docked et Singapore about ten o'clock in the morning.

tes

This is one of the great shipping ports of the world, and the harbor
was filled with ships of all sizes and nationalities. We made our
way at once to the Raffles Hotel, but were disappointed to hear that
the hotel wes full and they hed no accomodations for us. The Adalphi
however, was more hospitable, and elthough they told us the only rooms
they hed were so bed thet they were eshamed to show them to us, we
were pleased to have eny sort of shelter, and quite liked the room
assigned to us. It hes wooden, half-doors, that swing open off a

2a balcony that overlooks e little garden. The beds were well draped
in mosquito net, and furnished with two pillows, e Dutch wife, end

a small piece of cotton-flannel sheeting to pull over one if the
night turns chilly (it doesn't). I tried in vain the first night

to find some comfortable wey of sleeping with the elongated bolster
down the middle of the bed, but soon gave it up and threw Gretchen
on the floor. Bill insisted on hugging his, end l wanted him to
paint two eyes, a nose and es mouth on if. The bethroom elso
contsined one of the institutions of the Eest of which we hed he:rd -
the Shanghai jar instead of a tub. There was running water, so one
held an enamel bucket under the tap and poured cool weter over one-
self. It wes surprisingly refreshing. The water runs off the floor
and down the drein eventually.

Our first concern was to visit the American Consul, end see
if he hed any permits for us. Mr. Monnett Davis, the Consul Generel,
wes most cordial, end enxious to be of any possible assistance.

No permits had come through, but he offered to take the matter up
with the Colonial Office.

In the afternoon Bill and I went for e walk. Singapore is
like any tropicel town, with all the buildings making an arcade along
the street, furnishing protection from both sun and rain, of which
there is plenty. I doubt if eny other city in the world has quite
the variety of nationality among its shopkeepers. Here are Chinese,
Jepenese, Indians, amit Melays end Europeans side by side, seliing a
tempting variety of things. Prices in generel »re much higher than
Shanghei or Singapore; in fact they compere quite well with American
prices. We are peying $20 a day for our room, end with the dollar
at 58 cents U.S. that is not cheep.

In the evening we visited a number of bird stores in North
Bridge Roed and Rochore Road. They weve well stocked, and had numbers
of Australian birds eas well as Melay things. One of them had a tiny
Malay bear cub, which I was allowed to hold for a minute. It was
sucking its enormous paw, end whining in a most pathetic way.

About nine otclock we went ovt to the Great World, a big amuse-
ment park where we heerd there wes e circus playing. The grounds were
amazing: Booths selling everything from modern furniture to silk
handkerchiefs; caberets; Chinese, Maley and Indien theatres, open in
beck so that if you wanted to stand you could see the show free;
whet the cernivals at home call "gemes of skill"; open air restaurants
with enticing displeys of young chickens enc pickled octopus; jugglers
end snake charmers - end eventually the circus.

A ten-foot wall of corrugated iron berred our way to the circus.
A sign proclaimed that the house was full, “come back early to-morrow".
We pounded on the wall, end at intervels a bearded end turbanned
sikh would climb up and put his heed over the fence and tell us to
go away. We finally persuaded him to let us in, and to find the
manager for us. "Belits Hippodrome Circus and Touring Zoo", with
"Richerd Beil, Sole Proprietor" was a good-sized Europeen-type cir-

( bathe
cus. There wes 2 50-foot Biee end two 55-foot ends. The tent was
packed (partly because they were giving « free show). Bell, a
pleasent young Australian, explained that he wes the successor of
Hermston's Circus, which head toured the East for forty years. He
hed five elephents, e line of twenty or thirty horses and ponies,
a bear, @ lions, and, for performers, a Burmese juggler, a Chinese
acrobet, a flying trapeze act, two clowns, 2 riding act, & menege
act. We met both Bell end his brother, and Chekovsky, the 60-yeer
old flying trapeze artist.

Februarv 25 - Singapore

In the morning Mrs. Sellers called for me and took me shopping. Il
was measured for some shorts, and bought some straw hendbegs. At
noon I met Bill and Mr. Williams at the Hotel, and et one Mr. Devis
called for us and took us out to his hou'e for lunch. He has a
besutiful plece, with tennis court and gerden, and a cherming wife.
The house was spacious and cool, and a long strip of green baize,
attached to a wooden freme et the top, hung over the dining table
and was pulled by the punka-walleh ell through the mecl, gently
back end forth, to give just the right amount of breeze. We hed

9 delicious curry, end a dessert thet was new to all of us - gulah
malacca - meade of farina, coconut milk, and paim syrup.

After lunch we celled on Mr. Hunter, Under-Secretary of the
Coloniel Office, who seemed willing to give us permits but asked
us as ea favor to him not to teke any Maley gibbons.

We went on to the Reffles Museum. All the ethnographic
exhibits were draped in sheets, as some painting and re-—decorating
sre being done, but we enjoyed seeing the Natural History exhibits
end plenning whet we could do with some of the strenge animels if
we could cetch them alive. We stopped in to see Mr. Chasen, the
Director, and had e very pleasent visit with him.

In the evening we went back to the Great World, end saw the
circus egain. Leter, es we were drinking beer with the Bells, we
were introduced to Connie O'Neil, a femous local horse-trainer,
and to Mr. Lee, the Chinese proprietor of the cabaret. He insisted
on our seeing his plece, and we spent en hour or more there. He
has 110 texi dence girls, mostly Chinese, but some Malays and —
Furesiens. Bill denced with two Melay girls, and with one who
Looked like a Swedes but seid she was Chinese.

I had a dence with Mr. Lee. Later in the evening he pointed to
my empty gless, end said - I thought - "Another glass?" "No thank, you,”
I: said firmly. "Ne more.”

| ir, Bell said rether pointedly, "Mr. Lee is ashing you for
another dance." So I hed to heve seversl, just to show thet there
was no bed feeling.
We got home ebout two &é. lM.

February <6 - Singapore

In the morning we went around to see De Souza, the animel ten,
and while the men were teliing I bought a dress from Mrs. DeSouza. At
the hotel the Proctors met us for lunch, and after lunch we went out to
Beseppa's Zoo on the Bongoll Roezed. We went under the auspices of cur

-~|8~—

&

friend Connie O'Neil, who hes & Melay wife with a jede front tooth.
Beseppe was & very pleasant Hindu, with a good collection of enimels,
including two teme orengs, three tepirs, Australien black cocketoos
(very rere; weither of us hed ever seen one before); e couple of
gibbons, a peir of lions, a large collection of Victoria crowned
pigeons and New Guinee pigeons, Palawan peacock pheasents, etc.

In the evening we went over to the sea view Hotel for dinner. ihn
4c a lovely place on the Ocean, and we watched the moon on the weter,
and edmired the silhouettes of palms, end thought all sorts of kind
things about the tropics.

ery 27 - 81 ore

Spent the morning doing miscellaneous errends. In the afternoon
we both got our new ciothes from the teilor, ‘and IT had tea in my sun
helmet end shorts, while the rein poured down outside.

In the evening we went to the Swimming Club with the sellers.
Mr. and Mrs. Wagner were atso there. He sells Flizabeth Arden cosmetics
end she is walking advertisement for his trsde. Tall, blonde, very
effective-looking, but very frank ebout the number of kinds of founda-
tion cream, face powder, mascara, and hair dye that meke her what she
is. The funny part is that except for the eyelashes she doesn't look
ertificial.

The Club has the most becutiful swimming po@l 1 have Gver Secs

I wish we hed been invited to swim instead of to dence.
February 28 - Johore

The Consul General and Mrs. Davis called for us about 11.20 end
we drove over the causeway to Johore — ebout fifteen miles altogether.

We met the Tungku Makote - the Crown :Prince - at the 400, about
wnich he is most enthusiastic. He hes 2 beautiful deer perk, with
Nilghei, Sembar deer, mouse deer, hog deer, parking deer, and kengaroos
erenes end other birds all in one big enclosure. Tt made e lovely
picture, and reminded us of Baron Meydellts picture of the League of
Nations. Ina big cage, he hes en enormous Sumetre oreng, &@ mele with
great cheek callosities. Wild in the trees were severel gibbons, and
we got a thrill out of secing our first wa-we's leep from tree to tree.

After we hed edmired the enimels, the Tungku took us to the
ola Pslece, where St=te dinners are still held, to see the collection
of hunting and racing trophies thet were collected by his father the
Sultan. There were many heads of gower, long elephent tusks, and
other trophies of the hunt. On the well wes ¢ picture of the sultan
surrounded by eight deac elephants, all of which hed been kilied at
one time - in self defense. Several tigers, mounted py Roland Ward,
glared at us from glass cases. Better then the dead animels were
some of tie otner collections. - a gold service of dishes and flatware,
ceremoniel robes, sperrs; snd decorations, the throne room, with

*

tiger's heeds on exch arm of the two big gilded chairs.

Later he took us to his house, which is a new one and furnished
modern stvle, where we met his wife and two brothers. I sat between
the Tungku and the brother they call Boo at lunch, and hed @ very nie
time. Both of them speak excellent English, and Boo, if you are not
looking at him, sounds exactly like an Englishmen. Tungku speaks with
a slight eccent. His wife, who is pure Maley, knows ne English at all.

LY

She is rather plump, and weers her heir twisted up tightly on the top
of her hea. She had diamond ear-rings, gold ornaments in her heir,
and gold anklets. Her stockingless feet were encased in slippers.
She was very smiling end grecious,in spite of knowing no English

put us et ease with the poise of the eccomplished hostess.

The lunch wes made up of verious Melay dishes. First we had
fish, highly seasoned, and cooked in palm leeves, much the seme style
ss our Mexican tamales. Then we head a meet dish called sati, -
‘smali pieces of lamb and of chicken liver broiled on skewers, accom-
panied by a finely ground rice and a hot sauce. Dessert wes Euro-
pean - ice creem. We had chempegne with lunch and liquers after-
wera. :

In the evening we hed dinner with Mr. Chasen eat his home. He
is a bachelor, and keeps a large establishment - big, airy rooms,
cool screened verandahs. A Mrs. Capeau (?) and an enormous Dutch
ercheologist, Stein Capenfels (?) were the other guests. After
dinner we discussed the possibilities of getting oreng-outens out
of Borneo, as we sipped our whisky sodes. A large bet flew leisure-
ly through the rooms, but no one noticed. The little geckos were
all over the ceilings, end occasionally gave their chuckle of
pleasure over some succulent insect, but nobody noticed them either.

As we drove back to the hotel, I tried to count the smelis
of Singapore: Incense, fried fish, wood smoke, the oil on the
syce's hair, roasting peanuts, the scent of flowers, the smoke of
firecrackers which the Chinese are elways putting off, and occasion-
al unsanitary whiffs better not enelysed.

We were sorry to leeve this fascinating city, with its mixture
of reces, its crowded harbor, end the waterways where so many
people live their lives in sampans; traffic policemen with ratten
boerds on their beck for stop and go signs}; sikhs and tamils from
India directing the traffic of every imaginable Asiatic people;
zebu certs rubbing axles with the letest make of motor car; orchids
2 customary decoration on the table.

ae |
th, ie OLE OTL | VV Oe vv vA, eg OF
Co prias 1 katie

/

t\ A f
\ a Saat + oy BM ae 4 :

J

ni DAW DAW. ne > oe ( ag tee *

March 1 — At sea

We left the Adelphi shortly efter nine this morning, end boarded
the Plancius, of the K. P. M. line - a swell little Dutch boat. For
en hour before sailing swe watched the Malay boys diving for coins
neer the side of the boet. Each one hed 2 canoe thet looked just
about as sturdy, and much the seme shape, es 2 peenut-shell. How
they could belence themselves in these little dug-outs was e@ mystery.
From time to time they would beil them out with 2 curious scooping
motion of their feet. One of the boatmen was 2 famous cingepore
Character, an elderly, grey-heired Malay, with a lighted cigar al-
weys puffing in his mouth. When e coin czsme his way, he auickly
reversed the cigar, putting the burning end in his mouth, dived for
the coin, righted the cigar es soon es his he2d came to the surfece
again, and climbed beck in his boet with the Cigar still liented.

The boys piayed an interesting end skillful bell game, striking
&@ rubber bell, anout the size of e tennis ball, with their peddles.
They would send it ageinst the side of the Plancius, catch it time
and again on the tip of their peddles, hit-it from one boatmen to
another, and very the geme by hitting it occasionally with their
heeds. 3

As we pulled out, the Plancius served us orenge ice instezrd of
the customery bouillon on deck. We left the skyline of Singapore,
end the blue hills of Johore behind, and set out through the
straits of Malacca. All afternoon we were in sight of land, partly
WERASXeMAXTY low coastal country but mostly with mountains rising
from the green weter. Many of the mounteins were typically volcanic.

boys

The crew and the skewxrdE on the bozst sre Javanese, end eech
one weers a batik sash end turben, We begin learning Meley in
earnest, in order to get whet we went to eet end drink.

Bill and I sat on deck very lete, enjoying the mild evening,
the moon and the clouds, end getting a great thrill out of the
thought thet to-morrow we will be in Sumetre, the islend thet hes
been the center of our hopes and plans for so meny yeers.

March @ - Beleawan and Medan.

lhe Plancius docked at Belawan about eleven O'clock, and came
alongside in a curious menner all its own. ‘Two launches ceme out
from land, each with e long rope, which wes fastened at one end to
stanchions on the boat, at the other to sppiles on the dock. A
donkey engine on deck wound up the rope, and we were pulled in
Sideways to the pier.

There wes considerable delry while all our beggege wes teken
ashore. Then we went ashore end set on a pile of trunks weiting
for the head of the customs. It wes interesting to watch the coolies
disemberking from between decks. There hed been twenty or thirty
first-cless passengers on boerd, but there were eighteen hundred
Javanese between-decks, coming out to work on the plentetions, A
streem of them ceme ashore, eech one carrying his worldly goods on
his back, There were women with bebies in their erms, men with
bird cages, strange bundles of ell shapes and sizes tied up in
grass matting, boxes of household utensils - a seemingly endless
procession.

of

We had e fifteen-mile drive from Belewan to Medan, mostly
through cultivated land. Native houseg lined most of the road,
built on piles above the low flat land, and with wells of woven
nepi pelm, and roofs of thatch. The zebu is the favorite beast
of burden, and most of the vehicles thet we passed were Like
little houses built on two high wheels, with e pitched roof of
thatch, and drawn by zebus. Vie also sew our first water buffalo,
grazing in a fermyard, end admired the tremendous horns, much
longer then the horns one sees on water buffalo in 200s.

Our first greeting when we reached the De Boer Hotel was
sn air mail letter from the Gothweites. Our other meil had gone.
to the Consulete, but Pep and Deb knew we would be at the De Boer
ena hed written to us there. :

We heve fine auerters at the hotel - e big, high-ceilinged
tile-floored room, with «= mosquito-room in one corner of it -
fine screen eround the beds, a much cooler, airier arrangement
then the mosouito nets common in other parts of the Tropics. W
heve a large bath, and e sitting room - @ most luxurious amount
of space «efter so many weeks in ship's cébins. So I started to
unpack, having, as I thought, arrived at last; and sent all our
clothes to the lLeundry.

We celled immedietely on the Consul, ccnfidently expecting
thet he would heve the permits thet we need from the Dutch govern-
ment to stert collecting enimels. Mr. Sidney Browne, the Consul,
seid there were no permits here, but probebly they were in Batavie,
end he cabled to the Consul General there.

We spent the afternoon at the littie Zoo on the Deli
roed, taiking to Mr. Berthold, the heed keeper, who is also an
snimel dealer. He hed eight orengs, inciuding one enormous one
thet he cslls King Kong, two fresh-ceaught Sumetren tigers that
were collected recently from e drein pipe just outside of town,
a Sumatra gibbon, e« loris, some rare lornikeets, two young horn-
bills of different species, and a most telketive mynah who said
"Tabe, Tuan," all efternoon.

In the evening we went out to the Brownes! for drinks
before dinner, and had a pleesant time. Mrs. Browne is littie
snd red-heired end very nice. People keep curious hours out here.
We were invited for cocktsils at seven ofciock, end steyed until
nine-thirty. We esme beck to the hotel wondering if we were too
lete for dinner, but dinner is served from eight to ten.

Maren 6..-

Bill went over to the Consulete in the morning end ceme
beck in e reging temper. Foote, the Consul General in Batevie,
had telephoned thet the Government didn't know enything ebout our
expedition, except thet we were not to catch any Komodo dragons
(which we head not intended to do), and insisted thet we come to
Jave in person to explain our mission. As any amount of corres-
pondence had pessed beck and forth between our government and that
of Netherlends Indie before we left home, this wes annoying.
However, the Consul thought we ought to go, so I started to pack
up all the things thet I had unpacked yesterdey, and put in a
most hot and uncomforteble morning. About onetclock there wes a

knock at the door, end there stood the poor dobi, who had been
ordered to bring back all the clothes we had given him the day
before, and hed done so. They were piled in a huge basket, and
simply wringing wet - not even washed yet, just soaked. I
didntt know what to do, and then Bill came in, still in an

angry mood, and uneble to meke up his mind whether to catch the
efternoon boat or not. Finally he decided that it wes silly to
go dashing off to Batavia, and that the matter could be settled
by letter and cable, and we had lunch and cooled off.

We ere snxious to meet Dr. Coenread, who has been coliect-
ing Sumatran enimals for yeers, and we eventuelly decice to pack
a bag and go to Sientar, his home, in the morning.

March 4 -

The hotel arranged for a motor cer to take us this
morning to Siantar, with a stop in Dolok Merengir to see some of
the Goodyear Rubber Compeny officials. We started merrily off
about ten-thirty, with one suitcase in the car, and three cameras.
Layang Gaddi, our Dyak boy, who joined us yesterday, was to go
by train, and take the typewriter, end our other suitcese.

We hed driven eli of 16 kilometers, when the ancient

Chevrolet in which we were riding, puttered, coughed and ceme to

a full stop.. The seis got out and looked at the engine, got in
and stepped on the defunct starter, at least ae dozen times. Bill
and Williams decided to go for a walk down the road, which was
exceedingly hot, one to look for insects, the other for pictures.
Not to waste eny time myself I got out my account book and started
to work on that. I kept hearing occasional crashes in the nearby
tree tops, and after thinking two or three times, "That must be
an awfully big squirrel," I stuck my head out the automobile and
aw a whole troop of Entellus monkeys come swarming down out of

a big tree, scamper by twos and threes across the road, and swing
medly into trees on the other sice. They were so close that I
could get 2 good view of thexrme, and they were handsome, with
black crests on their heads, long bleck teils, dark grey backs,
end some of them with chestnut color underneeth. There were
mothers in the troop, with tiny pink bebies hanging onto their
breasts. Eventually the hedge right beside the car was crackling
with monkeys. I wes wild to think that both the photographers
were out of sight, and tried desperately to get Bill's Graflex
open, even tniough I didn't know how to use it, thinking thet
perheps by some fluke I could get e picture. Bill came back

just in time to see the lest of the monkeys, but not in time to
get a picture. It wes a sight that made sitting by the road in
the noon-—dey sun a delightful experience.

We weited two hours for the seis to tinker with the cer.
Then he gave it up es hopeless, end hired enother car in the
nearby villege for us. By the time we got to Tebing Tinggi it
wes two o'clock, end we stopped there for lunch, finding a neat
Little Dutch hotel thet served us good food, including bemi, 2
Chinese dish that consists lergely of bean sprouts, with a little
meat and some noodles. A few miles further on we came to Dolok
& Merangir, the Goodyeer plentetion, end although we could not see
either Mr. Ingle or Mr. Schoeff, the two men we hed letters to,
we hed a visit with Mr. Mergh, end then drove on.
A terrific rainstorm ceught us, and it poured all the
way to Sianter. I wes the only one who hed brought a reincoat, but

Re

thet did not protect my head, and we arrived et the hotel looking
like drowned reéts.

Bill telephoned Dr. Coenread, who invited us over to his

€ house for tea, and es soon as got dried out a bit, we went. Ne
found both the Coenresds very charming and hospitable. He was
most encouraging about the prospects of our getting our permits
and our animals. She is en expert photographer, end she and
Williems were soon deep in technical camere discussions. We came
beck to the hotel about eight ofclock, had a good dinner, wrote
some letters, and ent to bed. Our rooms are like the ones at
the DeBoer - apparently the sun-porch sitting room or verandeh
is the customery sccompaniment of a hotel room - only a little
smaller. We heve the same screened alcove for the beds, end the
nights are cool enough to meke a blanket seem very comrortable
indeed,

Vearch 5

Eerly in the morning we went back to the Coenraads! house,
and saw the animels which he now hes on hend. de hes @ teme oreng,
which ridges a bicycle, drinks lemonade through a straw, eats et
=s table, and dislikes Mrs. Coenread. Then we went over to look et
en ebendoned hospitel, end found thet it would be an ideel plece
for our heedauerters, if we can rent it. There are five bedrooms,
two of them with baths, all of them with mosquito rooms, end
enormous sheds, plenned as wards for coolies, but simply perfect
as animel quarters. Bill wents to teke out citizen-ship pepers
for Sienter. :

We hed lunch with the Coenrseds, and then came home, to
sleep end write until tee time. At five Dr. Coenra dad caited for
us again, end took us to see the little municipal Zoo which he is
sterting here. It is in a very pretty locetion, with a nice
hillside, and a little stream running through. All that is finished
now is the avisry, but it is very attractive, with glass-fronted
cages, uma lots of flowering plents in each cage, end a vine-—covered
pergola along the front to darken the eree over the visitors' heeds
and cut down the reflection in the gless.

March 6

Mr. Ingle called for us et the hotel at eight-thirty,
and we drove the fifteen miles to Dolok Merangir. There we met
Mr. Schoaff, who spent the morning showing us over the plantation.
There are DOO,OCO trees plented in 15,700 ecres. We went first
through the factory, ssw how the latex is coaguleted with formic
acid, pressed out into flet sheets, anc smoked. Then we went over
the plantation, and sew the men tapping the trees, and catching the
latex in cups. Each coolie taps four hundred trees in e morning.
By the time he hes finished tapping he goes back te the first tree
and collects the latex that has flowed, end brings the result of
nis work to one of the meny collecting stations. There it is
weighed, poured into e big tenk, and the cansare washed, The
scrapings from the cups, the strips of rubber formed by the neturael
coagulation of yesterday's tapping, and the rinsing of the big cans,
are all saved, and used for low-grade rubber. Most of the plenta-
tion consists of bud-graft trees, which produce twice as much
rubber 2s xzkex seedlings, thet is, about 1000 pounds to the acre

, ‘ De
instead of 5O0Q.

We had lunch at the Shoaffs' very lovely house. It was dark
and cool, with high ceilings, red tile floors, and carved teak
furniture. For lunch we hed bami egain, but this time a very
elegant dish comprred to the bami we had at Tebing Tinggi, and for
dessert our Singapore dish - gula melecca.

I rested in the efternoon, while Bill visited with various
men on the scientific staff. At seven o'clock we went to Mr.
Ingle's house ¢he is general meneger, Shoeff is second in command)
for pehits and kechil-maken (cocktails end hors d'oeuvres). Back
to the Shoeffs for dinner, end home about eleven o'clock.

We got ea telephone message today thet the Governor will give
es permits, but must have a list first of the animals we expect
Oo get.

March 7

Up eerly, and over to the dam that belongs to the ice compeny.
It wes being emptied and cleaned, end we took Gaddi over, with a
net and a bucket of formalin, to see if he could catch any fish
as the water was lowered.

: Then I spent the morning at the typewriter, writing letters
for Bill, end getting caught up on my own diery.

It rained ell efternoon, and we dozed, hed dinner and went
to bed.

Merch 8 — Prapat

We had intended to start early for Lake Toba, but we heard
thet there was mail coming up for us from Medan, so we weited for
thet. As it did not arrive by noon, we left anywey after tiffin
and told the hotel to send it up to us the next day.

Bill and I took a small car, leaving Williems to follow us
to-morrow. We rode through the outskirts of town, then through
a rubber plentation, an oil-palm plantation, and auite a strip
of real jungle before we got to the mountains. The highest pass
was 1750 meters — nearly 6000 feet - and then we wound down egain
until we saw the smooth blue water of Lake Toba below us.

Lake Tobe fills the crater of an extinct volcano, end is Se
miles long. T,ere is an island, Samosir, 28 miles long, in the
Lake. The hills, mostly deforested, rise abruptly from the
edge of the lake, Little groups of trees here and there over the
mountain side, show where a betak kempong is situated. Except
for Prapat, which is built on a peninsula, there is little sign
of habitation, and the whole effect is very wild and beautiful.

The Coenraads have e house here, and are building another,
snd we walked down to see them in the efternoon, and stayed for
tea on their porch, which is built right on the water's edge.
They heve planted auantities of lotus at their very doorstep.
Looking pest the tell pink blossoms, we could see a lopsided
Little fisherman's house built out in the lake on tall stilts,
and from time to time a batak sampan with high curved xkPmxxu
pow and stern, was paddled lazily past. An occasional fisherman
visited his nets, sitting or even standing, in one of the fragile

TS YW HK af tea VY [ SL fp Riklef Q a ae hae (ry Vn. Say,

, - ce ogee jee ak :
i OOO nea ee. a. WA MAAN Domi, ALT I ‘in amernee
w, 1

ice [YL OAAP? § OMe £ An fe +2 Ope i L Ome. Lig LY
( ( oy ad

;

j

Yeon

pe ; G
Hanah wot i ho oe ahp o& Wn br Qn alQ inrjpto

ti

io ean ;
/ i) baal | / ) . a‘ ; I p eel if i. : Loa fe \ rs
\ 1Q 7 pink (1 (i ) C cate gia ao 2 toed bh et
a \

~%

\J
HQ W227 | prt ( yee eal VA hie 2
h
V

~25.

looking dug-outs that they use.

We are stsying et the Prepat Hotel, which is on a promontory
and overlooks the weter on both sides. We have a “bungalow” - the
usual arrangement of living-room, bedroom and bath, but with a
most unusual view out over the garden (where dahlias, asters,

snepdregons, etc. are in bloom) to the lake end the mountains
beyond.

March 9 —- Prapet

We had morning coffee in our bungalow, and heard siemengs
howling in the mountains. Magpie robins walked about our garden,
and honey creepers came to the hibiscus bush to feed.

Dr. Coenreed took Bill ant-collecting. They started out in
his little collapsible boat, and went across the leke to some
trees, where he got three Sumatran species of ent, and severel
good beetles.

Mrs. Coenraad end I went for a welk, and visited the nearby
Batak Kampongs. Several of them ere quite close together, and we
went through them, accompanied by e horde of small boys in ragged
shirts and shorts. Onets first impression of a batek village
is of the dirt, both in the street and on the people. Their hand-
woven garments, un which indigo predominates, are not unettrac-
tive, but the old men, old women, end children certainly ere.

The young ones were out, the men, I suppose,fishing, the women
working in the rice fields. Underfed, mangy dogs set up @ dismal
series of b:rks as a stranger approeches. Pigs of ell ages root
under the houses, end practically under onets feet. Caribou are
mux penned under the houses, which are puilt on stilts from six

to ten feet above the ground. The houses, with their exaggeratedly
high pitched roofs, and with painting and carving on the front,

ere grend, but many of the newer houses in the kampong are being
built modern stvle, just square boxes with no decoration at all.

Nhen we got back to the hotel, we went for a swim in the
lake ~ Lovely cool, refreshing water, end a nice Little sendy
beech.

Tea at the Coenreads!' was enlivened by the edvent of
millions of midges. Gaddi turned up with Guite a collection of
fishes, and a few large toeds. :

The Coenresds 2nd Mrs. Ingle had dinner with us at the
A ~
hotel.

March 10 - Prapat

Mrs. Coenresd took Bill and me by boat over to the edge of
the kempong, end we wandered around there for some time, Bill
trying to catch ants and the natives trying to guess whet he wes
doing. A second visit to a kampong is Less perturbing, and I can
face the prospect of cemping in one with a little more eauanimity.
I didn't relish the idea et first, but Dr. Coenraad is planning
a camping trip for us next week. |

Another swim - lunch - a nap for Bill while I study Maley.
Tee at the Coenreeds, and we wetch a gorgeous sunset. Heavy clouds

26

smouldered over the mounteins. Samosir tapers off to a point,
thet exactly matches the conformetion of the mainlend on the
horizon. Precisely in the middle of the distant background is
a voleano. All this, done in the deep blues end crimsons of

a tropical sunset - well, there's no use trving to pick it out
on a typewriter.

A heavy storm made getting from our bungalow to the dining
room e little difficult. We were furnished with paper umbrellas
by the hotel, but spent a dampish evening.

Merch ll - Prepet -

Had e swim in the morning. After lunch we got a cer and
drove back to Sientar, again in the driving rain, that soused us
all as we were in an open cer. :

Apout six ofclock Dr. Coenread celled to report that the
first animels of the expedition had arrived - two Felis minuta
and two perrots, brought in by a native about eight miles away.
It is a good start, for the little cats are among the things that
Bill especielly desired, and as they ere not on the protected
list we can accept them freely even before our permits come.

An eirmail letter from Demmerman arrived about six-thirty,

re-iterating the fact thet we must list the animeis we hope to
catch.

Meareh 12 -— Kisaren

Dr. Coenreed called for us at eight o'clock, and drove
us to Kisaran. The roed was lined all the wey with rubber trees,
which are alresdy seeming commonplece to us. At first the
plantations, with their tall, light-barked trees, and perk-like
mingling of sun and shadow, looked foreign and interesting. Now
we look in vain for a bit of real jungle.

Kisaran wes reeched about ten o'clock. We called first
on Mr. Knapp, who, when he recovered a bit from his surprise
et seeing us, was very cordial, end made appointments for us with
a couple of Dutch nzturalists. We went over to his house and met
his wife, who has just returned from the States, and had two
mint juleps - a misteke: One is enough in this climate. We were
housed at the company's rest house (Kisaran, incidentelly, is
the U. S. Rubber Compsny, known as HAPM) and had really grand
quarters -— bedroom, sitting room and verandeh. Tiffin was served
us in our room, and we started out immediately afterwards to see
the two Dutchmen who had an interest in animals. |

Mr. Leevenstein from the company's office took us in his
car, end we celled first on Mr. Slootegraef, who hes a fine
collection of small birds, including some very beeutiful sunbirds.
He is interested in tropical fish, is doing some breeding work
with Bettas, and hed two small fish, one with a curious trensper-
ent tail that is invisible at first glance, and one a tiny catfish
with two spots on it. ? :

From his house we went to see Mr. Van der Larg, who

CS
we!

gave us his two porcupines and two pythons. Van der Laeg wa
full of stories about shooting elephants and trapping tigers.
His house had many eleph nt tusks and umbrella stands made of
elephant feet. He told one story about trapping a tiger in a
kampong nezrby. He set the trap about six o'clock, came home,
got ready for dinner, and then decided to go back end be sure
the trap was properly set. He bicycled back to the kempong,
and was just in time to see the tiger walk twice eround the
cege and then directly into it. He sent the tiger to the
Zoo in The Hegue, and wes exceedingly sorry leter on to heer
that it had escaped from its cage there and been shot,

In the evening we had dinner with the Knapps. Bill and
Mr. Knapp discussed animals all evening while she and I talked
ebout mutual friends in the Stetes.

Merch 13 — Kiseran

Mr. Knapp took us for a drive around the plantation in the
morning to give us some idea of what the nearby countryside was
like. Although there ere elephents nearby, and they heve to
keep a lookout at night in two or three places to scare away
edvancing herds, it looked to us like poor collecting country -
miles and miles of rubber, and beyond that, only second growth,
which has some small animals in it, but is not interesting to
a trapper or collector.

There are Lots of good Zoo birds eround our rest house -

g
lovely littie sunbirds and Munias, and we caught e glimpse of
is

a hornbiil.,. Ihe trick to catch them.

We went to the Ferringtons for tea, stzyed on for drinks end
then went to the movies at the Club. The picture was "Wife Vs.
Setretary", but the projection and the sound eapperetus were both
so bad that we got little out of it. We met the assistant
resident, Mr. Booterhaven de Heen, and he gave us a note of
introduction to the resident at Macesser, to whom we shell write
for specimens.

Merch 14 - Sianter

We got e car in the morning and drove back to Siantar.
It poured rain, es it always does when we are in en open cer. The
rain may have bothered us, but the only difference it made to the
netives was thet they produced whet looked to us like totelly
inadeaquete meens of protection. Men bicycled past us holding
peper umbrelles over their heads. Women working in the rice fields
hed little straw roofs over them, that hid them completely from
view es they bent over their weeding. It was e curious effect to
see the little strew houses wendering elong the rows of rice with
no visible mexmxxgk motive power.

March 15 = Silanter

In the morning we celled on Mr.Meindersme, the Assistant
Resident of Sienter, who wes obviously relieved to learn that we
celready hed our permits for collecting, and that we were m=king
simply a sociel ceil, end wented no particuler favors from him.

ell p

» Orawer
From there we went to the merket et Oman We" where

28

word had been sent some deys ego thet we would buy enimais or
birds from the netives. As we stepped out of our Ger, Bae cry

& went out "Bineteng!" and we were plee sently surprised to see how
many specimens had come in. There were many birds, including some
beautiful perrots - one perticulerly handsome with a long tail;
a loris, a baby Felis minuta, and helf 2 dozen monkeys, some of
them on cheins, some tied to the trees. We did not buy the little
cet, because it wes not in good condition and the men refused to
sell it at the price we offered, nor did we buy the monkeys, &as
they were ell xxvxxMxXEAGMEX common meceaues, but it was encouraging
to see thet news of the object of our expedition was spreading.

We spent the efternoon shopping for céemp supplies - blenkets
and cots, and tinned foods.

March 16 - Dolok Sileu

We were up at 5.20, before deylight, end hastily finished packing
for our first cemping trip. At six a bus which we hed hired drew
up to our door, and Dr. and Mrs. Coenreed, Williems, Billi and i
and Geddi piled in, with eli our geer teking up the reer helf of
the bus and pert of the roof. We drove through the cool early
morning out to Soeriboe Dolok, 66 Km. to the southwest. We were
soon out of the rubber country. Along the rordside ke were wells
of spider webs, making @ shimmering curtein as high «s @ men's
head. We drove past the largest tea factory in the world, and

sew Literally miles of tee bushes. Meny of them hed just been
pruned, end in « curious manner: All the branches but one were
eut off to within eae foot of the ground; one brench wes Left
sticking up in the -ir, end upon this the insects ere supposed to
congregrte. When this lest branch is cut off end burned the pests
thet estteck tea ere done for in one swoop. |

As we wound on end on, up into the hills, we pessed rice
fields neerly ready to hervest. One could write a monograph on
the @ifferent species of scarecrow thet inhebit the fields. ‘Some of
them looked like the familiar tremp of our own grein fields. One
was 2 clever representation of a hewk, enough to Brighten «ny
small bird away. Some of them were little windmills thet turned in
the breeze. There were meny pieces of peim leef, or banane leaf,
hung on strings and revolving in the wind. One of the most
ingenious devices wés @ network of strings stretching out over the
fieid. On eech string were one or meny pieces of banana leaves,
and all the strings led to e central platform, where e@ smell boy
set all dey end pulled the strings to keep the leeves in motion.

Seriboe Dolok is about 4,000 feet high, and was downright
chilly when we got there et eight oteclock. We went to the rest-
house, where we were to meet Mr. Tichelman, the Assistent hesi-
dent, who had plenned to go with us to Dolok Silau. He had
chenged his mind ebout eccompenying us all the wey, but offered
us hot coffee end hot chocolate, which we drenk gratefully. then
he went with us es fer es the station of Dolok Sileu. This was
the end of the eutomobile roed, and here were supposed to be
porters to carry our geer into the kempong, ten kilometers through
the jungle.

Mrs. Coenreed end I rode thet lest 20 Km. with lr.
Tichelmean, who commented on the remerkabLle iniluence the Dutch
government hed on the country. Only thirty years ago it would

raw,

have been rather risky to camp in e Betak fea! but now, sai
Mr. 1.5 1% is perfectly safe. “At least," he added, "I hope you
won't be cooked and eeten'afkex The Betaks ere one one genere-
tion removed from cannibalism,

Mr. T. had written to the Rajah thet we were coming, and had
ssked him to send porters. No porters were in sight, end we
began to commendeer some from the neighborhood. There wes trouble,
for the rice wes being harvested, and all the men were
fields. Just when we were wondering whet to do next,
sturdy crew hurrying down the roed, and cheers went up
Rajah's men hed come after all. Everything we had was
bundies, and the Aaron slung onto stout bemboo poles
bearers ehead of us, and the son of the Rejah of Siantar LS
guide and interpreter, we started off. For some distance the peth
wes wide, fairly level, and sandy - easy going. I1t was not long
pefore we were in sight of reel jungle, steep mountain sides covered
with enormous trees and thick undergrowth.The peth led down hill
a greet deal of the wey, and ae we went farther aiong the trail
grew wilder end wiider. We had to cross Llittie mountein streems
on slippery logs, and walk hae the edge of cliffs where most
of the sendy peth head been washed away by rain. In the distance
we heard sismangs dismelly proclaiming thet it wes about to rein
agsin,. When we finally got on e trail thet led through dense woods
Bill began to collect insects, and found some very interesting
sc-ecimens. One was Polyrachus upsilon, an ent with e spine on its
back like the Greek letter thet gives it its name. Another was
a Myrmecine ant that mekes a carton nest - e habit which as far
as Bill knows, has never been reported. the nests @s six or
eight inches long, about half es broad, and are built on the under
side of long flet leaves. I grew very excited about e black
orchid thet I found in ea demp end shady spot - deep purplish bleck
in color, and with long, fringe-like stamens.

The path led up the mountein side again es we approached the
kampong. The first sign of civilization wes that the weeds had
been cut and the peth cieered in our honor. Then we saw rice
drying on a curious vertical rack - evidently tied onto a framework
thet wes fifteen feet high end perhaps twenty feet long, in little
bunches close together, so that it looked like a thatched wall of
yellow grain.

Just before we entered the village Mrs. Coenraed wrinkled
up her nose and said "Ugh! I smell durian." Close to the path was
a huge durien tree, and near it a smell shelter, where a group of
natives were sitting waiting for the fruit to drop. They never
cut the fruit from the tree, perheps because there is no way of
telling when it is ripe, but spend the day watching for the duriens
to fall. As they are heavy, and covered with spikes half an inch
Long, -1Lt would be dengerous to be hit on the head by one, - hence
the roofed-over platform where they squat and watch. I we inted to
get one, as I have heard such conflicting reports as to the good-
ness of this native fruit, but e small signboerd proclaimed in
both Meley end Batak that this £xnkk wes the Rajeh's personal tree
and no one could heve the fruit thereof except himself. Over the
sign wes hung hslf a palm leaf, with the fronds felling downward -
the local tabu sign.

Men, women and children, dogs, cats, pigs end chickens,

aAOs

were gathered in the dirt streets of the kampong as we entered.
We passed one house with some interesting colored cerving -— pro-
bably a sort of club house —- but the other houses were small end
poor-looking, until we ceme to the Rajah's house. It was high,
with the exaggerated pitch to the roof that is so characteristi-
cally Betak, about thirty feet wide, and at least eighty long.
The roof wes thatched, the front gable wes woven of colored pelm,
the walls were of logs end plenks whiteweshed. Ihe doorway was
reached by six steep, cock-eyed steps, and over the entrance wes
hung the half paim leaf, similar to the one by the durian tree.
Under the eeves wes a myneh bird in e bamboo czge, and a string
of wild boer jawbones.

We climbed the steps and entered the derk, smoky interior
of the house. The Rajeh rose from the low bench on which he had
been sitting, end came to meet us, shaking hends with eech one
and greeting us with "Horas!" He wes dark and plump, rether coarse-
featured, about fifty yeers old, and hed @ bed cold. He wore a
white shirt open at the neck, dark trousers, and 4 turban of

brown batik.

We hea understood that the Rejeh hed a guest house which we
were to occupy, but after some pelaver our porters began to climb
the steps to the house end bring all our belongings in, so it
became rather obvious thet we were going to live right with the
Rejah. Cleen rattan mets had been spread on the floor, and we
unpecked our cots so we would have something to sit on.

We found that we were in s room about 20 x €0O feet, with @
smell window on each side, end en open lettice work around the
fall, a foot or so ebove the floor. The front door was a great
heavy wooden affair, built in two parts that swung together end
were closed with e wooden *As6APp- . in the center of the room
wes an enormous post, cerved in a small, all-over pattern, end
painted red, black and blue. In the reap part of the room, on the
right, was e smell, enclosed room that wes the Rajeh's privete
pedroom.,. On the left, to the rea, was tne fireplace, a slab :
of stone set in the floor, and covered with ashes. Over this we
wee two huge shelves supported by messive posts that came down
from the ceiling but did not go all the way to the floor. It
looked something like an old-fashioned four-poster ped upsice
down, and buffalo hides and other treesures were stored here.

Along one wall were the verious state uniforms hung on hesk
poles. Overheed in the rafters were the weapons of generetions -
blow guns, spears, blunderbuses, ang fairly modern muskets.
At the beck of the room e dark and nerrow doorway led to the
women's quarters. Here one could elweys see e fire burning,
end here the Rejeh's five wives kept house for him.

es
We esked to. see the head wife, the DOL) y
i end I presented her with a piece of silk we hea brought

4

on

. It was e two-yrrd length, enough to meke short

tt
thet the Betek women weer over their sarong. ‘she spoke
» end we spoke no Batak, but she seemed plezesed.

The men settled down to explein to the Rajah what we
wented in his village - nemely, animals. Dr. Coenraad spoke in
Meley to the Crown Prince of sienter, a nice, intelligent boy,
tremendously proud of his responsibility «s interpreter for us,
end he explained to the Rejeh in Batek. The Rejah, who is a

cheery soul, beamed at us in e bewildered wey. Undoubtedly there
were animals in his jungle, but catching them alive wes a new icea
for him.

While the men talked, and exchenged cigarettes and drinks,
Mrs. Coenraed got out e little alcohol stove and we wermed up two
cens of army rations end mede some tee, squatting on the floor to
do our cooking, and shooing various domestic animels ewey from the
food, which was neetly stacked on the age-blackened floor. Lunch
over, we made a boudoir for ourselves by stretching e cord from
one corner to another end hanging ea couple of sheets over it. As
the shlhouette of the ledy who wes undressing behind the sheet
was only too clear, we mede our wall less transparent by draping
the flags of Holland, America and the Netional Geographic cociety
over the cord, and hed 2a most patriotic corner of the house.

Bill did some more entomology in the efternoon, and the
small boys, anxious to be helpful, and to get ae copper coin, start-
ed bringing in insects to him. It was-a little difficult to know
just how to rewerd their efforts, as they would come in with one
grasshopper, or part of an ant nest, at a time, and the number of
small coins that were being disbursed, in order to keep up their
interest, was rapidly building up into quite a lot of money.

Mrs. Coenrasd end I decided to bathe, and the Crown Prince
accompanied us to the river. He ordered the natives out of the
bathing pool, and we stepped gingerly in among the stones. The
water wes delightful, cool, cleer spring water running over mossy
stones, and we felt much refreshed. The Crown Prince stood back
out of sight himself, but keeping everyone else from interrupting
our eblutions. 3

In the evening the Rajah steged a dance for us. He himself
plays the flute, and he played us a tune on a littie bamboo
instrument before the celebration started. Gut in front of Ais
house a pole hed been stuck in the ground, and from this hung a
gasoline lamp - a new one, evidently acquired in our honor. It
lighted up the whole squere in front of the house. On one side
the orchestra set on the ground, eight men, two pleying smell
gongs, two pleying lerge gongs, two drums, and two flutes. The
show wes lete in starting, but presently out of the dark figures
began to gather, and when the Rejah descended from his house and
sat on the bench thet hed just been put up for the occasion, two
men appeared and did e most skillful dance, with vivid panto-
mime of fighting, and graceful gestures. Then eae group of little
girls, students of the dance, performed. They were not more than
five or six years old, ebsoliutely solemn,with downcast eyes and
long black heir falling over their faces, and their little hends
and feet moved in slow and cereful rhythym. They were followed
by a group of older girls, young women, some of them quite pretty,
who did the s*me dence the children had done, but with more
assurence. The dence is e religious one, and seemed to express
modesty es well as reverence.

This is e remote and primitive kampong. JI think we were
the first European women who had ever been there. It did indeed
seem fer out of the world, with the monotonous thumping of the
drums, and minor piping of the flutes, the strenge, dark faces
gathered all about us. Rhexzuskenee Every now end then a new-
comer would errive, carrying e blazing torch of palm leaves thet

flemed end showered sparks in the heavy jungle night.

éfkerxtnexdencingxwxs Williems end Mrs. Coenraad tried to
photograph the scene by fleshlight, but were so uncertzin of what
success they would have, that they asked to heve the dancing repeeted
to-morrow by daylight, when they could teke both moving- and colored
pictures of it. |

We hed a sketchy supper of fried-egg sandwiches and tea, end
went early to bed. Whether it was the dust end smokiness of the old
house(said to be about three hundred years old), or the fuzziness of
our new blankets, I do not know, but Mrs. Coenreed and lt started to
sneeze as soon es we were in bed, end kept it up most of the night.
The men, on their side, begen to snore. Apparently no one else in
the kampong tried to sleep, as voices could be heard all night long,
and occasionally someone tiptoed into our quarters from the other part
of the house, and tiptoed out again, and no metter how carefully he
stepped the whole floor shook when even @ dog went through the room.
Dogs howled and barked throughout the night, end fer in the distance
we could heer strenge sounds of unidentifiable animals.

Merch 17 — Dolok Silau

It was e relief to hear the heavy doors of the house swung
open, and to see that it was beginning to be daylight et last. Although
we were dressed and outdoors before xikxxokukmek sunrise, the women of
the kampong were earlier risers than we, end were alreedy at their
interminable task of pounding rice. A stone's throw from the Rajeh's
house stood an open building where the women, end even the small girls,
spent the day husking rice. the rice wes poured into long troughs
made of hollowed-out logs, end pounded with long wooden poles. After-
wards it was sifted in a large flet woven besket, and the chaff allowed
to blow ewey. The musculer endurence of the women was amazing. The
steady, monotonous pounding, alweys in a certain rhythym, end with
tremendous long poles thet must have been very heevy, would have tired
anyone not accustomed to the work in five minutes. But there wes never
= moment from before sunrise to long efter derk when @ group of women
were not working there.

The dance of lest night wes repeated for the benefit of the
pictures this morning. The Rejah put on his uniform, a militery coat
end dark end sedded all his gold ornements.
Over one 3 es lerge gold
flower. Projecting from, the S 6 eped decore-
tion - a ringed stick) abotit ‘ten inches long, #m= OdebGeGolda., He
had e messive ge@éd pracelet, gold rings, and gold buttons in his coat.

y-Iwo of his wives joined him, end they had ear-rings end rings of gold.

A procession wes formed, headed by the medicine man, en old man who
carried a pole with e tuft of feathers on the end; then came the Rejah,
his wives; and the soldiers. Swm# They carried knives end guns, end
the guns were mkt blunderbuses with eld coins set in the wood, vome

of the coins were British, some Portuguese, some Austrian, some Dutch.
One gun hed e modern touch - an American silver dollsr of 1870. The
other decorsetions were ell et leest a hundred yeers older than thet.

Wanting to do ovr shere in making the occasion a festive
one, we decorated the outside of the house with our flags, and tried to
explain to the Rejah whet the American and N. G. & flags stood for.

"atti,

When the photogrephs were finished - movies and color pictures
were elso teken - Bill, Dr. Coenresd and I went for e long walk. Bill
found meny insects to interest him, and the two boys who went with us
tried to help by picking up occasional spiders and ceterpillars, or
teally did help by climbing trees to pring down termite nests. We
saw two gorgeous green birds in a palm tree - neither Bill nor Dr. C.
knew what they were. One curious thing we found wes @ LACTIC pile of...
undigested ant heads in the middle of the path - evidently a pangolin(| Ott" ,.
had passed thet way the night before. SS Pees

During the efternoon Dr. Coenraed tried again to work up the
Rafah's interest in enimal catching. Some boys brought in two cages
of birds, and Dr. Williams protested when the cages were hung on poles
directly over his cot. Another boy brought in a big lizard, and he
wes encased in 2 length of bamboo and I protested when he was put under
the heed of my bed.

In the evening Mrs. Coenraad brought out @ notebook, and by asking
numerous questions of the Rajah, through the interpreter, added to her
store of knowledge concerning Batek customs. On the well over the Rajah's
head were a number of photogrephs, mostly of him:elf and his soldiers,
but one wes of his fether, the old Rajeh, who still lies in state in the
women's querters of the house. He hes been dead for fourteen years, but
the kampong has not yet enough money to bury him in state.

We rolied up in our blankets and went early to sleep.

March 18 -

We were up before deylight, made coffee, and packed our belongings.
When the house hed been cleared of all our camping gear, we were asked
to sit on the Rajah's bench for e farewell ceremony. Three of his
wives came in end sat on the floor in front of us. First we were pre-
sented with betel nut wrapped in sirBhleaves, and on this we made Bf
pretense to nibble. Then the head wife gave Mrs. Coenreed and me a
piece of hsndwoven cloth, which we folded and placed on our heads
Bstak style. Rice was thrown over us, and cries of Horas were shouted
enthusiastically. Two bowls of eggs were then given to us as food for
the journey, but this wes symbolicel, and after teking them we politely
hended them back. It wes a kindly and interesting ceremony, and l
felt thet elthough we hed undoubtedly been great nuisences the Rajah did
not feel too unfriendly towerd us. He must have been glad to see us
go, and to have his own house free for himself again.

Bulbuls sang to us all the way beck through the woods. We made
the way beck, which was mostly up-hill, in two end a helf hours, and
were glzed to see that the motor bus, weiting for us, hed come nearly a
mile down the treil to meet us. Wem We got beck to the hotel about
one ofclock, and were gl:d to have a bath, a chenge of clothes and a
good dinner.

March 19 -

Early in the morning Bill got e cable from Jennier and Davis
thet they would land to-morrow in Belawan, and thet all the animals
they were bringing were still alive. He hastily commandeered @ car
end went to Medan to meet them. Mrs. Coenraad and I spent the day
together, and I had lunch, tea and dinner at their house. We looked
over the hospital that we expect to move into next week, end went
shopping for sheets, towels, mattresses, etc.

March 20 -— Sianter

I walked over to the hospitel in the morning to see how the
cleaning process was coming elong, and then had a heir-cut - rather
a severeDutch cut, due to my inability to explain in either Melay
or Dutch just how I wanted it trimmed.

Mrs. Coenresd had lunch with me, and I typed notes enc sorted
pepers virtuously. Dr. C. telephoned thet the boat would not be in
untii to-morrow, so I hed another day of solitude to put in. It
vas not too lonesome, thanks to Mrs. C. I hed tea with her and with
her friend Mrs. Mettison, who was highly entertained by our accounts
of life in e Betek kampong. |

Merch 21 --Siantear

Mrs. Mettison called for me a little before eight o'clock and
took me to church. This being Palm Sundey, the ceremony was unusually
lengthy, with the blessing of the palms first, distributing them
to the congregation - end there were not quite enough to go around
and some little Betek boys went without palms - a curious deprivation
in the tropics. I1 was entrenced with the xkkkke Batek altar boys,
their brown little feces looking just as cherubic in cassock and
surplice as kaze any Anglo Saxon youth!s - and with the children's
choir, singing hymns in Maley. Benediction followed Mass, and it
was curious to hear Tantum ergo sung by those soft young voices.

As I write now, the heat of noon is elmost et its height. The
horizon is black with the threat of our daily thunderstorm, and it
seems strange to think thet at home this is the first day of spring.

1 and Devis errived about one O'clock, end after waiting

Bil
de helf for Williems and Jennier, we decided to have lunch.
T

an nour 2
It wes ne

i
n
early four when the two missing ones arrived. As usual, they
hed hed motor trouble, and had lunched at Tebing Tingi. We all steyed
at the hotel for the night, and packed so as to be ready to move
tomorrow,

March 22 - ase Camp

We hed lunch with the Coenraads, on snipe thet were brought
us as specimens. It is impossible to keep them elive in captivity,
so we ordered them killed end broiled. This is snipe hunting seeson,
and the Littie birds were delicious.

About four o'clock we got = truck end moved our gear from
the hotel to the hospitel "Rumeh sakit Pantoeean", on the edge of
town, not fer from the Coenraeds'’ house and opposite a rubber plante-
tion. It is a tremendous building, end we have rented the wing that
wes originally built for Europeans - five rooms in a row, each with
bath, klambo, and verendeh. One room hes a sink end some shelves,
end will do for a kitchen. Meals sre to come over to us from the
hotel.

The place hes been abandoned for some time, but has just
been ell cleaned up for us. Electric light and water hae*been in-
stalled, and Mrs. Coenread provided the final touch by putting white
teblecloths end embroidered buresu scarfs in place.

we e oer

Shortly before dinner en excited Meley appeared at the door
end made a short but impassioned speech. Il could get the words
binateng and rumeh, and celled Jennier and Devis, sensing thet
something wes wrong with an animel at the neighborts house. They
went over on e deed run, and found thet a huge monitor lizard which
hed been brought in that afternoon hed escaped. It was an
eggressive beast, about six end = helf feet long, end they hed cuite
a struggle getting it into a cage. The native who brought it had
tied it to a pole, tied its feet together, and put the pole in
a box, but it got out. just the seme. Luckily it had not hurt any-
pody, for there are children about the neighbor's house.

They brought it to the hospitel, and decided to transfer it
to another cage. The only thing that seemed strong enough wes the
box thet hed brought the Americen alligator from the States. The
slligator has been presented to the Siantar Zoo, but no quarters
ere ready for it, so we are keeping it, as well as the bear, jaguar
end opossums, for the present. The alligator is tame, and he wes
installed in one of the vacent bathrooms. Then Jennier and Daivs
and Gaddi worked for e strenuous quarter hour, while I held the
flashlight on them, getting the irate monitor into the new cage.
He lashed his teil and made a terrific blowing sound, but finally
went where he wes directed.

Dinner hour came, end passed, and no food. Finelly the boys
said they would walk up to the hotel and find out whet was the — 1,04
matter. It was ten-thirty before they returned, with timmex in
s full dinner-peil - one thet comes in five sections, with a different
item in each one. The meneger seid he had not understood thet we
wented to start eating to-night.

There were moscuitos in our newly scoured klambo; outside
on the verandah the beer pawed and grunted in his cage; in the
distance dogs and unidentifiable enimels howled through the night,
so thet our first night was rether e wakeful one.

We were up early and scanned the highwey for signs of an
approaching breakfest. Apout eight-thirty e boy from the hotel
brought us some meil, and we asked him about food. He said he had
understood we never ate breakfast (this was because Bill and I al-
ways hed fruit and coffee in our room end celled thet e meal). When
he saw our horrified faces he scurried back es fast as he could go,
end presently we had hot doffee, banenas, fried eggs, cold sausage
and sliced Dutch cheese.

An elderly Chinaman came in from Atchi bringing e miscellaneous
collection of enimels - 2 wild dog, mertih, otter, hog badger, 40Fis,
a cage of Loriculus and some other emeall birds. Davis and Jennier
worked all day trying to house them, for the cages they hed come in
were small end dirty end inadecuate, amd all the boys! baggage is
held up at Customs, end they feel completely lost without any car-
penter tools. Meking a cage out of pecking boxes, am# driving nails
without e hemmer, making locks out of scraps of bent wire, is un-
satisfactory business.

Bill and I went shopping in the morning for cemp supplies.
Had e great time trying to buy e broon, for the word in my Malay
dictionery seemed to mean nothing to the shop keeper, anc we had

28

to go through the motions of sweeping before he understood.

At the nearby merket, Tanah Djawah, Devis bought e sea
eagle and a Felis minute cat. The cat is a dumpling, about heif
grown end perfectly tame. It weighs nothing, feeis like a bunch
of feathers in one's hand, end dences about end plays like a
house kitten. It is spotted like a tiny leopard, and has the
sweetest little face with bleck and white markings on a tewny
ground.

Shortly after lunch a Melay appesred with a baby tiger.
It is only a few weeks old, just a milkling, and has to be fed
on a bottle. It is a marvelous little cat, a perfect minia-
ture tiger. Baby lions do not look particularly like lions.
Nhen they are first born they ere spotted, end the shape of
the heed and face differ from a full-grown lion. But the tiger
cub is striped and colored like a meture enimalx, and as he
staggers eround on his clumsy pews, and yells through his bristly
whiskers, he is too absurd for words. He is apparently half
starved, and gulps his milk down greedily.

We hed enother escape todey, this time a pig-tailed
macaque thet we did not particulerly want. It was given us 4s
e present, but vanished wildly over the horizon, with our whole
crowd in ineffectuei pursuit.

Merch 24 -

To-day wes given over, for my pert, to nursing the two
little. cats. Felis minuta eats meat, but the tiger does not even
notice it. Both get milk from e bottle, and they teke turns in
screswing. The tiger woke the whole camp up at three in the
morning, wes sick to his tummy, and most disturbing.

Nothing of great interest happened, end the only new
specimen wes a hoopoe thet cennot stend up.

March 25 -

The tiger still cries, but not so much. He’ gave us a
bad night, and we finelly had to put him in another room, farther
awey from us. A kingfisher died yesterday, and the hoop@ died
@oday, end Bill feels discoureged.

| Eerly in the afternoon a man arrived bringing one dove.
We told him we wanted bigger and better animals, so a little later
he rode up on e bicycle with e big siameng henging on his shoulders.
It had something the metter with its hind legs, so we did not buy
it. it elso hed a passion for eating paper instead of biscuits,
end we were.a bit leery ebout buying anything tnet hed been on
such a diet for eny length of time.

Escepes come in threes, I suppose. Iwo of the opossums
that we gave Dr. Coenreed for the Sientar Zoo esceped last night.
Rather annoying, efter peying freight on them, enc nursing them
half-way round the world.

Merch 26 -

We sent Geddi 5emsoed a native buyer eek

to the market of Siboeroe Dolok, near Dolok Silau, to pick up
the aniuels thet the netives in the Betak kempong had caught in
the pest week, They ceme beck lete in the evening, empty-
hended (seve for en expense eccount of seven guilders) and the
excuse thet the Rejah did not know whet animals we wanted. That
after two days of expleining to the old chep!

Wuvenx2%xx We had our first perty in our new home - the sidney
Brownes were here for lunch. The hotel did very well by us, end
we hed a merry perty.

tn the evening Dr. Coenraed gave us e full-grown Felis minute.
March 27 -

Devis set out helf 2 dozen treps lest night. One of
them wes set off, but nothing was captured. He spent the efter-
noon stringing up an Itelien bird net ecross the back of the
hospital, in e good open spece. |

Our first ectual cepture took plece todey, however.
A poy ceme rumning overm just efter lunch, to say that another
of Dr. Coenraads animals had escaped. We all deshed over, and
found e small civet cst cowering emong a pile of boxes. Jennier
picked it up, and popped it in 6 beg, but as the boys counted Dr.
Coenreed's civet cats, and found them ell properly in their cages,
we reelized that this wes a new one thet hed come in from out-
side, and we brought it proudly home. «It is a very young one,
and auite e sweet little thing. The netive name for it is museng.

neh

Our beby tiger, whom we have nemed Hrrry, is getting
bigger and stronger, end eats very well. In the late efternoon
2 mate for Herry arrived, e pethetic little tigress brought in
2 perrot cage by e Chinese. Of course we took her too, and a
spent the evening trying to get her to nurse from s bottle.
Harry and Herriet peid little attention to each other, but lI
hope they will both live and become great friends. - Herry, by the
way, now enjoys to go for a walk with me, and heels beeutifully,
walking slowly when I do, galloping clumsily end falling on his

id ae ys

©
fo

This being Easter, I went to church with Mrs. Matheson.
‘0 hed colored Easter eggs for breakfest, brought over with
ride by the Betak boy thet delivers our meals.
who

The first specimen to arrive was e handsome kingfisher,
one of the kind thet lives in the jungle instead of along streams,
and feeds on insects instead of fish. The waterside kingfisher
is herd to keep in captivity, but there is e chance that we can
keep this one elive.

At noon we went to the Coenraads for "nasi goreng", e wonderful
fried rice, with all sorts of things to pile on top of it, like
peanuts, fried onions, cucumbers both boiled end raw, coconut bails,
chutney, red pepper, curried chicken. With the nesi goreng we hed
sati, shrimps send chicken broiled on a skewer.

Mareh 29

Took both the little tigers for e welk in the morning, end
put them into a big cege together. Harry chewed on Herriet's es
but there wes no great sign of friendliness between then.

About two otclock the Brownes dropped in, and we took both the
little cats out to pley again. Harriet showed symptoms of weakness,
and we separeted the tigers agein. Later in the efternoon ke we
began dosing the little femrle with bismuth and opium, but she wes in
such feeble condition that we realized there was little hope for her,
and she died sometime during the night.

March 40 —

With all sorts of ferewell advice for Davis and Jennier, and
much mutual wishing t@ good luck, Bill and I left camp ebout ten
O'clock, and started off in a car for Medan. Most of the wey is
through rubber plantations, and rather monotonous, but there were
e few short stretches of forest, and three different times we saw
monkeys, beside the road or running right ecross in front of our
automobile. They were the common rhesus of Sumatre.

Back at the DeBoer Hotel, we were a little disappointed to find
thet our steamer wes going to be e day lete in Sailing. Meden is
terrifically hot, and we would rether heve stayed in Sienter until
the lest possible moment.

In the evening we went out to the Brownes! for drinks, and hed
a pleesant visit with them.

March 3] =

Billi spent the morning buzzing esround from the Consulate to
the Bank to the K, P. M. office. They sre giving us holidayurates
to the Molucces, which is really very decent of them. The Coenrzads
arrived during the morning, and we ell hed lunch together. Lete
in the efternoon we did a little lest-minute shopping, and at eight
we ell went to the Brownes! for dinner. Mrs. Browne is e Beltimore
giri, end hes teught her Jevanese cook to meke chicken a le Maryland,
end we all enjoyed heving = reel American meal, from cream of tomato
soup to apple dumpling.

April 1 -
We were up before sunrise, and left Medan at seven bound for
es

Belawen, We had a bad ten minutes when the car broke down, but it
was just the cable to the battery, and after thet had been nailed

& together (literally) we went merrily on, end reeched the pier in
plenty of time. it wes like meeting an old friend to be on the

Plancius egain, anc we headed for Singapore shortly after eight
Oo clock,

~oo-

Bill picked up ea very nice American couple named oheriff,
who ere going eround the world,, stopping whenever and wherever they
Like. At the moment thev ere headed for Java, but heve no plans
beyond that. oo - ate :

- April 2 — singapore

We lended about eight in the morning. Raymond Creekmore of *
Baltimore, ea young artist working his way eround the worid, was on
the dock-to meet us. We had written him we were coming, and invited
him to lunch with us. We hed also written A. €t. Alban Smith of
Johore, end received a note from him seying tht he was Lit. O36
hoped we would come out end see him. He had sent his cer and
cheuffeur for us, and we went out to see him. He lives now near the
Sea View Hotel, having sold his Johore estate. He is badly
crippled with ea form of arthritis, but still inte:ested in snake
collecting, end told us all sorts of harrowing tales. Iwice he hes
been bitten, once by a cobra and once by 2 krait, and recovered both
times to his great surprise. He sent to London the record king :
cobra of all time, 18 feet 7 inches long. It was one that he had
caught himself - simply grabbed it with his bare hand when he sew
it was about to bite one of his boys. He has a Chinese bov who
hes absolutely no feer of snakes, Ah Cheong, and all morning fh
Cheong wes kept busy bringing various specimens up to the verandah
for us to see. There wes e mother-of-perrl ceve snake, e@ brown
end gold cobre, e Gray's viper thet was so fat and good netured
they celled it Sophie Tucker. As we left Mr. St. Alben Smith gave
me a compact, mede of Sismese silver, with lovely figures of .
Siemese dencers. He seid he elweys geve them to ladies who came
to see him, as a souvenir.

a We hed lunch at the Adelphi, end Bill wes thrilled to find
thet Dr. Osorio hed succeeded in getting him a Rolleiflex cemere
on the German boet, end hed left it for him at the Consulate.

After lunch Besape joined us, with the sed news thet the

jaguar we hed brought: for Jepen, hed died in Singepore pefore he
could send it on to Kobe.

id spent eil efternocn and evening

mali porpoises. We steyed up until
11.40, would be conscious when we crossed the Equator -
my Tirst cross e certificate signed by
the purser 2
find thet a
to-night, rig
were in the o

no
5

5
a

a1

i + pe
on 4d We sew a school of
ae
S

d
reeze hed come ug, so that our cebin was much cooler
ht-on the Equetor, than it was lest night, when we
traits of Melaceca.

mmo Sh nm %

April 3 - At sea

Couid see flying fish from the dining-room porthole all
the time 1 wes eating breekfest.

At ten o'clock we enchored off Muntok, Bangke Island,
end took quite = few passengers eboerd, end let off one Dutch
family, with e large number of small blond children. The islend
looked typicelly tropicel with a sandy beach, a line of coconut
pelms, a yellow hotel, a row of thatched houses, and high forested
hiils peyond. A lighthouse and a beeched steamer merked the entrance.
to the herbor, which is evidently very shailow. From time to time :
as we were approaching we could see waves breaking on the reeis. —

ole

iu eae ee

4

One old Meley woman ceme aboserd with four large bird cages, and
Dr. Coenread promptly went to investigete. As they were yellow-
heeded bulbuls (of which we alreedy heve ten) she was ellowed to
keep her pets. |

April 4 - Batavie

Landed early in the morning, end went to the Hotel des Indes,
The city proper is about seven miles from Tanjong Priok, the port,
and the road followed a canel ell the wey. In the ola days river
steemers used the canal, coming up to Betavie, but now an occasional
canal boet, covered over, on which e native family lives, is all
the traffic there is by weter. Brahminy kites, bright brown with
white, equiline heads, flew over the weter in greet flocks.

We spent an hour and e helf with Walter Foote, the fAmericen
Consul General, discussing possibilities of having our permit
extended a little. He promised to do everything he could for us.

Then we went out to see the Zoo, which is a combination zoologi-

cal garden and childrens! plevground. In Jave there hes been a

great deal of intermerrying between the Dutch and the netives, anc

we sew many dark mothers with blond children, or Nordic fathers

with dusky youngsters, Merry-go-rounds, pushed by a Malay boy,

were populer, as were sand piles, swings, end Loeter-tetberss AQ -Kawss

ks for the animels, there were some beautiful silver gibbons, e@

nice male oreng-utan, tree kengeroos, ea fosse cat from Medegescer,

four anoes, two uncomfortable polar beers, a beby 6 tran ele-

phant with LOWE. hair, hornbills, fairy bluebirds, and ahere.

We were get ohi tied to find Batevie had elmost as meny animal

é
collectors in town es animals. On the boat in the morning we hed
met Dea snesch, collecting for Amezonice in New York. In the Zoo we
leerned that Meems, of Werd and Meems, and eee oF Buhe, were
here, too. We got in touch with Meems and Kreth, end they spent
the rest of the day with us.

ae the Hotel des Indes we hed our fir t reistafel, thet femous
of the Dutch East Indies. Twenty boys served us, pessing
Ss victueais in whet appesred for some moments to be an
chain. h big soup bowl was placed in front of us, with
side plate for the overflow. The first offering was
i rice, served from e big silver bowl. Onto the rice went
curried chicken, steek, baked fish, s aghetti, fried coconut,
cucumbers (boiled, pickled, end fresh), peenuts, red peppers,
1 oa <2 oa chutney, onicns fried nut cakes, shrimps, fried
egg, salted hard- boiled duck erg, end verious complicated gravies
and sauces. i ne heard so much ebout the reistafel that lI
too much in the wev of gastronomic delight: the
gene s slightly messy, and by the time one was served
with ail the hes, the original rice, and most of tne things
thet went on re cold.

In the efternoon we went to the bird market, an interesting
crowded street merket, where meny of the Hest Indian birds were
to be hed. Fairy bluebirds, lovely little finches, parrots of
all colors, mynehs, and quantities of doves, es well es a baby
museng and a baby Felis minuta, were on sale. We looked the
supply over, but did not buy anything. We shail stop here agein

on the return voyege.

We sailed at six in the evening. Williems complained of a
cold, end heving had reistefel at noon, decided egainst dinner et
night. We were none of us very hungry, and supped delicetely on
consomme and e spot of sealed.

April 5 - Samereng

Awoke in the morning to see the coast of Jave slipping by.
it looked satisfyingly like the picture books, with cloud-wreathed
mountaing along the sea, and occasionel volcanoes to be seen.

We went ashore in’a lLeavunech ebout ten. cew for the first time

mests, painted pink and blue, and carved and peinted bows. As we
drove along the road to the town, we saw zebu carts, built like the
sumetren ones, but painted in bright colors.

Our first stop was et the bird market, where Bill wanted to
recket-tailed drongo, but decided thet shipping it out to the
lends end beck would be teking too much risk. Dr. Coenraed bought
ungle fowl, the wilc ancestor of our domestic chicken, rather
bird with heevy briliient wetties,

We looked up a M. Jansen, who hed written us thet he wes e
friend of Stanley Dewson's; from his name we hed essumed he was a
Swede, but he was largely Malay with a dash of Chinese. He promised
to keep an eye on the bird market for us until our return. .

kexkhexHoteixiexkauvitionyxywnere We had heard there wes a

-smeli Zoo in Samereng, but it turned out to be very s |

@ private collection belonging to a rich Chinese sugar planter. He

hes a most remerkeble gerden, curiously landscaped with mounds of

tufa rock, coral steps and paths, whiteweshed urns filled with

flowering shrubs, statues, fountains, a long screened pergole filled

with orchids (one lovely white one had a purple center), and a paddock

with one deer, a hornbill end a peacock. Java sparrow were wild in the

garden,

At the Hotel de Pavillon, where we stopped for e drink, we

met the Sheriffs from the ship, and went with them to a Chinese

resteurent for lunch. The food wes simpiv delicious - asperagus

soup with crab eggs, tiny fried shrimps in batter, chicken cooked with

leeks, nesi goreng, end tea. The tee was served in pretty little

cups, each one conteining its individuel tee-strainer, and Mr.

Sheriff insisted on buving me six of them. I hope I can get them

home unbroken!

Back to the ship, and sailed at four o'clock.
very bad cold, and hes spent the day in-bed.

In the evening we sat talking with the purser, Mr. Mulder, who
is a friend of the captain of the Keampar. The Kamper has been
chartered by e gold-prospecting expedition to New Guinea, and Mulder
thought the captain might pick us up a collection of birds anc animels
while he was there. The evening wes spent trying to get in touch
with the Kampar by wireless, but we finally learned that the short-
weve set on the Kamuper is intended merely to keep the ship in touch
with the expedition camp in the interior, and es they heve not yet
landed, the wireless men was not at his post. Still we were trying
to relay a message to him, by various ships, most of the night.

~42—

Apout midnight Bill went in to see how Williams was feeling,
and then took his tempereture with our thermometer. To our horror
the thermometer went right up to the top, registering 106 and
points north. We woke up the ship 's doctor, who took his temper-
ature with his own thermometer, and found thet ours hes gone
flooey, either due to tropical hardships or too much bouncing
around. Williams is sick, but his fever was one and a half degrees
Celsius, whatever that is - less then LCG, enyway.

April 6 - Soerabelia

We arrived at Soerabaia early in the morning, end came ashore
efter a leisurely breakf deck. The Governor-—Generel is in
town todey, end all the fl gre flying in-his honor. Hven: the
bullock carts have bright-colored yokes end decorations — the city
is very gay. All these Javan cities are neat and clean; well- —
painted, white and yellow, and tidy as only e Dutch town can be.
The buildghgs look very ettrective in their setting of palm trees,
hibiscus, casuearine, crotons, and other tvpicel follege.

e
‘3
J

3 The Hotel Oranje gave us 4 room, built on the same. spacious
plen as the Sumetren hotels, but with mosquito nets over the beds
instead of the screened mosauito room that liked so much in Medan
end Sisnter.

About ten-thirty we set out for the Zoo, and were joined by
the Sheriffs. We hed a very nice morning, and found Lots of
interesting things in the Zoo, The bird collection wes especially
fine, including enormous woodpeckers, white sterlings from Bali,
"leatherheeds" e sort of pigmy hornbill from ‘ew Guinea, and fairy
bluebirds. A pair of anoes had produced @ young one, which was
brown end white and quite unlike its parents in appesrence. The
first benteng we had ever seen munched like se greet black bull in
his peddock. Mynehs crewled over the tapirs, looking for ticks or
something. The deer were getting their new horns —- sure enough,
this is fall, not spring, in this pert of the world.

We had lunch st the Oranje Hotel, and in the middle of lunch
Bill wes called to the telephone. The American Consul was on the
wire, saying there was a enble from the Consul in Calcutta. fhe
cable was the best news we hed had so far, namely, the Assam Govern-
ment is willing to capture 2 rhinoceros for us, and deliver it to
Caleutta. After being turned dow by the Dutch on a permit for
rhino, this wes thrilling news indeed, and Bill almost hed hysterics
of joy. We all had several drinks on the strength of it, and
suddenly decided to go to Bali instesd of steying in Soerabeia for
two deys. Why we had not thought of it before I don't know, but
we hestily repacked, abendoned our laundry, films, and any possible
meil, and s iled eat five o'clock on the Van der Lijn.

The coast of Java, seen from the ship at sunset, was very

lovely. with the sky peerly pink behind the purple masses of the
“wv 3 : & p
mounteins.

April 7 - Bali

We lended et six in the morning, and after some delay in
getting ashore, found ourselves in the hot little town of Boeleling
on the northern coest of the island. Many American tourists from
our boat were going across to Den Pasar, on the other side, but we

15"

haa so little time we asked about some plece on the north side.
Gitgit wes recommended, and we set off for Gitgit accordingly.

_ The drive was all up-hill, into the mountains, and very
lovely. There were hairpin turns - one so nerrow thet we bumped
one car coming down the mountain, but no harm was done. “e
passed lovely Little vieallges - groups of thatched houses with
mud walls, surrounded by a mud well. There ere more flowers in
the villeges then in Batak kampongs, and the whole effect wes
much more picturesque. Little Buddhist temples were everywhere
slong the roed, end in each villege were shrines of various
sizes - some of them nothing more then e tiny platform with an
offering or two.

Gitgit turned out to be a villege with a government rest-
house. There were four rooms, but no one else was staying there.
From our room we hed the most gorgeous view looking out towards
the sea, which was eight miles away end fifteen hundred feet below
US. Back of the rest house were rice terraces, which for beauty
best any sort of cultivated field I have ever seen. Up the
mountein side they rose, their weter reflecting nearby coconut
palms, the ridges divided by paths of emerald green.

Bill has such e bed cold, with a pain in the ribs, that
we did little all day except admire the view. Dr. ©. and I walked
through the villege, and saw the local temple, which consists of
a nice old gate, carved end painted stone, and severel smell
shrines, some of them spoiled by corrugeted iron roofs, some of
them thatched. Two of them hed old paintings of Hindu gods on
the walls.

All the local color of the islend walks past our front gate
it is reelly not so much deprivation just to sit Still ine
ce like this. Men and women g° by carrying beskets on their
eds, welking with thet straight free movement thet comes from
eneretions of doing just this. The women, many of them, wear
: rong with nothing ebove the weist. Most of them heve
mouths stained red by betel nut. They are not as peautiful es
the tourist posters lead one to expect, but they are brown and
comely. The children smile et one with the most charming frienc-
liness. In the late afternoon we took e short drive up the ro
and came upon a large troop of meceaues, who scuttled ecross in

ree

®

front of us end spent sometime creshing ebout in the neerby t:

There are meny smal- s here, and |
our door continually, cerrying cebbages for the mo
big panniers slung on eech side « ¥
bells eround their neck da
so thet they could eat as \
the steep roads ell dey. Fyven more interesting were tne cattle
thet were led past in smell herds. These are the banteng, found
wild in Java, but. here domesticated for hundreds of years, —iney
ere pure blooded banteng - one of the rarest Zoo animals! - but
only in this island have they been teamed. We had banteng meat
for dinner and liked it very much.

rei
st pert, in
h a echein of

Bill feeling so miserable we went to bed at 8.20, heving
rubbed him with the iocal remedy for pains (it smelled strongly
of eucalyptus) end given him a hot-water bottle that was a

stone gin bottle wrapped in a towel.

April 8 - SE

In the morning we took eae drive up to Bedoegoel on Lake Braken.
The road was very steep, but well built. It is e new road, in
fect still being worked on, partly with convict lebor. We pessed
&@ prisoners! camp, and also 2 monument to the roedbuildrers -
a stone statue of ea Balinese man, carved by e@ convict artist.
In preparation for the km visit of the Governor General to Bali,
next week, the roeds sre being put into as good condition as
possible, and fresh gravel was being spread where it would do the
most good. All road work is done by hand, naturally, but it
seemed strenge to see men petting out the sides of the road with
their bare feet, or busily sweeping awey any roughnesses with little
brooms.

The rest house et Bedoegeel was being decorated for the
G. G. kxxraxtwx The epproeach to it was lined withbent sapling
erches, end these were covered with pelms. A large entrence gate
was one mass of ferns, and the posts thet supported the temporery
pavilion were covered with croton leaves. :

The Leake itself is very pretty, and exesperatingly full of
small fish, when we did not bring e seine or net with us. They
were just the right size for equarium fishes, end "probably," says
Bill, “new species".

4500 feet high, and the air was cool and damp.
cross the mounteinside across from the resthouse.
Huge pandenus trees, tree ferns, epiphytic plents of all sorts,
made the surroundings all thet one dreams of in ae tropicel
island :

The Lake is
Clouds trailed a
r

In the evening we sew our first, and probably only, Beli-
nese dance. It was very thrilling to see it in a small village,
rather simply done, insteed of in a tourist hotel. Two or three
hundred netives came, and enjoved it as much, and more intelli-
gently, then we did. Many of the dencers were small girls,
not more then twelve years old, in sarongs, tight little jackets,
and flaring heed-dresses. The latter were made of gilded “BO arcglae
buffalo hide, with strips of bamboo, cut to about the size of
e match sticky stuck into them all the way around. Each stick _ :
wes tipped with e fragrent white flonase 8 there were more
flowers in the girlils' long black heir. There were sixteen [=
girls, and about twenty men, who took turns dencing for us. At
the close of the dencing two men put on whet wes evidently an
uproarious comedy act, but es most of it wes dialogue, and not
even in Melay, we were uneble to grasp its meening. The orchestre
consisted of eight xyllophone-like instruments, a drum, and a
cymbel-like thing thet crashed like many bells.

=,

The performence lasted from 6-0 9.20, after which we
dinner end went to bed.

*

ive. end drove down the mountein in the
poe

z , s iyi ~ ai
rd the Melchior treub bound for Macesser,

met « ROGSS

ae RS

Williems met us, prectically recovered from his flu. Being on the
Treub was like getting back to the Plencius agein. Here elso was
H. Danisch, the scout for Amezonice, coming out to Macesser to
pick up his animals. Bill, Coenread, end Danisch spent the whole
dey discussing the possibilities of getting animals in the Celebes
end the Moluccas.

April 10 -— Mecasser

We landed about seven in the morning, Bill very wobbly and
still suffering from eae psin in his rib. He and I went on ahead to
the Grand Hotel, while Coenraad buzzed about the docks, looking
up various captain friends of his who could give him information
about New Guinea, whither he is thinking of going. When he
joined us at the hotel he was sputtering about his permits, for a
chenge. Permits that he thought had been granted him lest Decem-—
ber had not yet arrived, and anoas and babiruses, which he thought
were ready for the Zoo, hed not yet been caught. Moreover, Nicobar
pigeons belonging to him were traveling beck and forth on 2 ship
between Macassar end New Guinea - couldn't be lended for leck of
permits. Bill meanwhile is biting his fingerneils in anxiety over
his request for permits for birds of Peradise and crowned pigeons.
RoSHNYXXA

We mede a brief end forwal call on the Dutch Resident, who
wes very pleesent, although he hed few suggestions es to how to
gather eae collection of animals in his district.

Next door to the Residency is the police stetion, and here
were three anoas, consigned to the Soerabaia Zoo, but permit-less!
Originally there were five; two heve died, and one looks pretty
feeble now. This business of the government protecting the ani-
mals is a complicated one. At first we were indignant over their
siowness in giving us per ission to cart awey whatever we could
corral; now we begin to see their point of view. There ere ebout
three collectors to every animel out here, and the government
must be dizzy trying to keep all these recuests streight. The
anoas are about half-grown, pretty brown calves, two of them with
well-developed horns, and quite frisky.

We had heard vaguely about a Chinamen who kept some birds
for sale, and down a side street in the Chinese quarter we went,

looking for him. He was well-known in his own district, and we hed

no difficulty in finding his shop. Out in front were severel
cages Of white cockatoos, and after looking et them we were led
through his shop, with its living auarters in the rear, back to
the little cobble-stoned alley that was the backyard. The first
thing we saw was two young cassowaries, not yet in color, but
strolling calmly about and pecking up any bits of rice or greenery
that came their way. Bill promptly bought them, and edvanced
five guilders for their board until our return; The men also hed
some black-capped lories, and some racket-tailed parrekeets, and
we asked himiho have six pairs of each for us on our return.

From this man we heard of another one, end went to see him.
He also had two young cassoweries, and more lories and parrots.
This seems to be a good place for the world's most brillient birds.

We came back to the hotel, and Danisch arrived with Con-
stantin Gerds. Gerds is en old German who hes been out here nearly
forty years, and never gone back to his own country. He is an old

[~is
j»
yy
tend
je
te
24
Sanead
a
nd

fe
Gum:

&

i
ee
cs
coed

LAGe

vl

soldier, living on a small pension (F1L.70) from the German Govern-
ment. With a long sandy beerd, and hair with no grey in it, only
the lines of his face end the stoop to his shoulders, bpetrey his
age. He took us out to his place, e small stucco house on the
outskirts of town, hidden by crotons end with a row of orchids

just inside the wooden gate. Over the gate is picture of a long-
necked dog (rather gireffe-like) and the Malay werning "Awes —
endging". Beware of the dog! Inside was e plentitude of animals,
and one very friendly canine, chained. Forty Celebes mecaques
showed their excellent teeth, and put their hands through the

bers of their cages, begging for ettention or food. Crates of

Jave sparrows, lories, parrots, perrekeets of sll colors - prillient
green, red, purple, orange, yellow, - even one lory thet wes ell
black, and a great pet of the old man's. He had one large casso-
wary, severel deer, a tame prush-tailed porcupine that was great
friends with the dog, crocodiles, lizards, geckos, one big snake

end severel smaller ones. Most of the stuff is being got ready

for the long voyage home, as Danesch has bought it from him. Daenisch
has a permit for faxrkyxxonke twenty monkeys, end has just wired

for permission for twenty more.

The old man brought out various treasures to show us, one
at a tice. He had two babirusa skulls, with the backwerd-—curving
SkKHiXE elmost touching the forehead; the skin of kke a huge
tusks
python; two guide books to European Zoos; e picture of ea Komodo
dregon cut from an article by Ditmars. On the walls were pictures
a ort yy Yoo pat

of Hitler, and a large Swastika, Ws (wet
CAs: AVP emrr WX
We hed reistefel at the hotel - not particularly good, and

dy keons VLAT @ -

then a nap. When we zewakened it was reining, and we spent the
rest of the afternoon and evening around the hotel. It is much
like other Dutch Eest Indian hotels, but the food is nothing to
breg about - everything labeled with fancy French nemes, but

a disappointment to the pelate. “One eurious customzx is having
a heavy metal plate with the number of your room placed on the
table as a sort of name-cerd. Our teble, with the three plates,
looks particulerly reserved and no outsider would dare sit et it
I am sure.

At ten-thirty, as we were ebout to retire, I called for e@
boy to bring us blankets. Nights out here are ept to be cool, end
some sort of coverlet is usually desired about four in the morn-
ing. Apparently not in Mpcassar, for the boy looked amazed at the
idea, and out of the Malay speech he made, I gathered that the
blankets were locked up, the man who had the key had gone to bed,
and we could not have blankets before tomorrow. So with a rain
coat and a kimono as precautions egainst e cold spell, we went
comfortebly to sleep in our klammbo.

April 11 - Macassar

I spent the early morning doing some letter-writing for
Bill, who is doing his best to catch ea rhinoceros by correspondence
having been forbidden by the Dutch government to. catch one per-
sonally. Later on we went out to see Lie Tjiong Yong, a Chinese
florist, who hes a mervelous orchid garden, many beautiful tropi-
cal fish, including two Celebes species thet were new to us, and
a few birds. One lory was very gorgeous, red, green yellow - Bill
seid he thought its mother hed been frightened by an orchid.

C47 —-

This Chinese seems to be the heed of the animal collectors
here. They all haunt the shipyerds and pick up what they can from
sailors coming in from Ternate and New Guinea end other distent
islands. Gerds gets whet he can from all of them, but Yong is
the most prosperous, respectable and respected of the Chinese clen.
From him we hope to get a good collection on the wey hack.

From his orchid collection Yong gave me several spreys of
P apuan orchids, pale lavender with purple centers, smallish
blossoms, but six or seven to a sprey. He told me if I woulda keep
them in weter they would last for several deys.

On our wey to the hotel we went out through the netive
querter, the fishing village on the see, Here were little houses
built out over the water, woven of palm, end thetched of course.
The harbor, and canals were full of native preus, built with a
high bow, with multicolored sails, and sometimes one, sometimes
two outriggers. The ones with two outriggers looked like
enormous water boatmen skidding over the water. Men were mending
their nets, women doing the washing, children ran after us laughing
end shouting "Eabe, Tuan" but not begging. Here and there elong
the coast were lookout towers for the fishermen — where the
wetchman spends hours waiting for a school of fish to eppeer and
then shouts the good word xhkzxt

Beyond the villege wes the tomb of "Captein China" - not }
a sea-faring man as I had supposed, but the head man of the
village. His tomb, and the nearby temple, were ornete with
carved and colored stucco. There were some nice bits of porcelain,
small and complicated rock gardens, and some grotesque figures
of the Captain, of Malay soldiers, and two Dutch soldiers on
guard.

The famous preu harbor is near here, but the boats are
enchored so close together, their seils furled, thet one really
gets little idea of whet they look like. Housekeeping goes on
busily aboard; people are born, grow up into fishermen, spend
their whole lives on these praus and never know any other home.

Beck at the hotel our verious Chinese agents, and also
rather embaressingly Herr Gerds, kept sppearaing end reappearing.
Rather than heve them think we were playing one egainst the
other we told them we were going to buy from ell of them, and
wanted Yong to supervise the lot. They all managed to extract
considerable guilders as gueranty of good faith, but we are
assured thet they are honest, and we will not lose by financing
them in edvance,

In the evening we went to a Chinese resteurent, seeking
e change from the pseudo-French of the hotel, but the Chinese
food was not as good as we hed hed in Semareng. In fact, the
tummy-ache thet woke me in the night was probebly due to the
fried shrimps, or the crab eggs, that had been a bit heevy with
grease.

Coenreaad and Bill ere still worrying about permits.

No word hes come from Batavie, Coenraad tried to telephone to
Batavia, and learned that the telephone can be used on Sunday
only in case of a volcanic eruption - just what good it would be
then seems uncertein. At any rate he wes eble to get a cable

LARS

through seying thet he would telephone to-morrow.

Denisch is having trouble, too. Having telegraphed for
permission to bring out twenty extra monkys, he gets word that
as there has recently been e case of rabies in Macassar, he will
be lucky if he gets out with one. Now he wishes he had never
mentioned it.

April 12 -Mecassar

Coenrasd gets his telephone call through to Batavia and
Learns that he hes his perm;t for enoes end bebirusas and Bill has
a permit for sixteen birds of Paradise and twelve crowned pigeons.
That is good news indeed, and we all heve @ drink on it.

In great good humor we go shopping, as I want to see some
of the Kendari gold and silver wor: for which Macassar has been
famous through centuries. Hendrick Sinjo is the leading murghxnkr
dealer in this art, and in his Little shop I heng over glass
eases w&xiknkexenak filled with intricate gold and silver filigree
work trying to meke up my mind which piece I like best. I
finally chose a wide silver brecelet and a big round brooch. When
I wasn't looking Bill bought a lovely iittte gold Gizard with-pin)
green eyes, and presented it to me later. {Brooeky

At four o'clock we started for the steamer, stopping at the
K. P. M. for mail. We had a letter from Davis and Jennier, saying
collecting was poor, but the tiger is still alive, end that was
good news. They heve acquired a 12-foot king cobre, and a few
new birds.

We boarded the Van Imhoff, a ship about the size of the
Van der Lijn. So much freight was on its way to the outer
3slands that we were nearly two hours late in sailing. Danisch
and Gerds were down to see us Off, and the old gentlemen brought
me a big basket of roses and carnations.

The ship is well-populated with copra bugs, and Bill says
thet is a sign that we are really in the South Sees. (Story of
Latreille and Necrobia). At dinner Solenopsis, the fire ant,
hed a meting flight on the table, but no one seemed to get bitten.
Passengers aboerd ere various shaces of white and brown and mixed.
One charming young couple, just out from Hollend end rosy-cheeked,
are on their way to Amboina. An aviator is going to New Guinea
to make maps of the island. One middle-eged couple ere returning
to their island off the coast of N. G., where they heve a coco-
nut plantatfron, and are the only Europeans in the whole place.

ten - doy azo UuAy a pe Satin tn bo Me decle ;
April 13- At Sea

We have seen more of the pass
deck is full of natives and helf-ce
New Guinee. With them they heave to
turkeys, guinea fowl, tapioca stick
and anything else they want to i

engers on board. The forward
stes going out to colonize

teke their own chickens,

s already beginning to sprout,
se. The after deck is full of

Chinese storekeepers, and all their trade goods. After the

Ven Imhoff leaves Ambon it becomes a series of shops for residents
in the remote islands, and they come swarming aboard to buy any-
thing froma new topi to a new frying pan. There are beles and
pales of cloth, shoes, phonograph records, kettles end household
utensils, clothing, end so forth. Cattle (caribau end benteng)
are 2lso on their way to be sleughtered out there.

eres TY. saga - m= pettus | A225 - A ky Le. LAn hn
Ramp Ron wv OV akenrtrrie (. 43 188). Te. Gee et toe C0, Db Cree.

oe VU pt ohh of din wim - PaAAL Tacks pin | remy - Oe cet 12 -

Cum . it- Cred Ring om Vag (Lau - radu - IE Tk Hence ~ aged. partuto

Vet ' GE. ae VV) atte m veiw de poy tachun 9 weet - Co tonut nate, ued)
perme fale | Pons op, WuFtrmeg , edwue, urkconu, Nn orn gan teen , ppchn.
2 Ranwto bane, Pom But om, | cane Be ON amar coor Popabany © - fan 4

Pugh - Cot mane jp Yeo me tayo VO Baranar - cad Ne te
pone rice Rant do bed- Set boy br ere eunr-

Cyn. 19- Warts wa hen POC SOND te evr haa Mars eee ss Bae Pasig ace, @

RCAMWAP

Wrhr ~ red tetas wera VY Bure de toe eee) > Coton
tet :

een

cok elmer ee Kaas

April 14 - At sea

All dey long loafing along on the Van Imhoff, cool end pleasant.
Have made friends with two German couples, the Stillers end the Ahrs,
both of whom have their own islands off the New Guinee coest, end reise
coconuts. They ere miles end miles from any other Europeens , and
leed whet must be a lonely life. Everything they have comes off the
plantetion, and they have been living this way for neerly thirty years.

In the evening we passed miles of lighted shore-line, end thought
there must be so e big city there that we hed never heard of. But it
was not an electric-—lighted main street: it was an almost endless
line of fishing boats, each one with a kerosene lantern hung on the
mest. The shore line of Moena and of Butan took three hours to pess,
and was illuminated the whole way.

April 15 - Amboine

We came into the beautiful bay of Ambon et daybreak. The harbor
runs deep into the mainlend, almost cutting the island in half, and the
forested mountein sides rise steeply on both sides. About eight o'clock
we went eshore, end welked through the town to the Esplanede Hotel. It
is a funny little town, with 4 big market, and eny number of barber shops.
The natives must live by cutting each others! hair. ZK Next to the market
there were ten barber shops in a row, each advertising a different kind
of hair-cut - Ambonese, Celebes, Japanese, etc.

The Hotel is built on the same plan as all these Dutch East Indian
Hotels, but is run in what seems like a very casual manner. There is no
maneger in sight, end everything is left to the boys. The head boy is
a young Javanese, and there is an elderly Ambonese hovering about. No
telephone and no ber give an added distinction. However, the Club next
door is apperently always open to strangers, and we get drinks there and
sign chits (only they are Bons here) just es though we were members in
good standing. And why have @ telephone, when one can always "send eae boy?

Our first duty was to call on the Resident, @r. B. Y. Hega, who
wes very pleasant end anxious to be helpful, although he did not know
just how he could be of service to us. He did tell us about a2 rest
house up in the mounteins where we could stay, end Bill quoted Wallace
to the effect that "the Resident secured for me a house not far from
the city". He had three crowned pigeons in his garden, end a paddock
containing a number of Molucce deer. ‘

From the Residency we went to the the little librery, where
the works of Rumphius and Valentine are preserved in the original
editions - 1724 and 1750 respectively. Rumphius is buried in Ambon,
and we visited his grave, in a private garden.

We had sent out a request for an Ambonese who spoke English
and would like to join the expedition for the next week or two, as
Coenread, who has been e tower of strength, is leaving us here, while he
goes on to New Guinea to collect birds of Paradise. In answer to our
broedcast, a young Dutch-Ambonese, Fritz Buitenbos, ceme scurrying up
to the hotel, and we engaged him. He seems like a bright young chep
end speaks excellent English in eddition to Melay and Dutch. He is
of dark complexion, with freckles and blue eyes that were inherited
from his Dutch ancestor.

A heavy rain began et onefclock and lasted ell afternoon.

_50-

We slept until the clouds had done their worst, and then strolled
to do a little shopping. I ordered e@ peir of white kid sendels,
made by hand end to order, for three guilders. |

Our hotel room looks out on the locel movie theatre, where @
special childrens’ performance wes given et 6.15,the 12th instell-
ment of "Tailspin Tommy", and all through the evening roers of
excited laughter rolled into our room.

BDris 19

Buitenbos invited us to spend a couple of days at his father-in-
lawts plantation across the bay, end we sterted eerly in the morning.
After ea brief walk eround town, we came to his house, where his wife
teaches tennis end runs a florist business. In front of the house
was his prau, ea good-sized row boat, but beceuse of the shellow
peach we had to wade out to the boat. Williems lost heart when he
saw what we were doing, but Bill and I took off our shoes and picked
our wey gingerly out to the preu, Buitenbos explaining that "it is
the fashion in Ambon." Four men rowed us ecross the bay, which took
about helf en hour, and we ceme into the peach there on the crest of
a wave, and waded ashore.

Mrs. Ernsten, B's mother-in-lew, ce e down to the beech to
welcome us, a neet little old Maley women in a pretty blue sarong
end long white jacket. P apa Ernsten greeted us on the verandah,
e fat, light-brown Swede of 78 yeers, uneble to do much any more
except shuffle in bedroom slippers from the dining-room to the
porch rocking-chair and back again. In his youth he was Controller
at Dobo, during the deys of native insurrections. The gun, with which
he killed many netives, is now used by his son-in-lew to shoot cuscus.
Tn 1909 he started this coconut plantation on the beach, and divides
his time between the plentation and his specious town house across
the weter. B. told us thet his fether had been given a2 medal by
the Dutch government, and thet 1% was not an ordinery decoration but
a good medal: he gets F1.200 a yeer on it, end when he dies his wife
will get Fl. 100 a yeer.

We went for e weik in the forest in beck of the plentation, end
Bill found Polyrechus, end the nest it makes on the under side of
Leaves. Parrots flew over our heeds, sereeming, but too high to get
e good glimpse of then. Fruits of all kinds, both wild end culti-
vated, were all over the place. We drank coconut weter, ate wild
passion fruit, and saw nutmeg and clove trees. There are a lot of
durian trees here, end in several places we Sew the smell. thetched
shelters where the netives watch for the fruit to fall. We saw one
fruit come crashing down to the ground, and realized how dangerous
it is to stop for long under a tree thet drops such heevy spiked
fruit.

Back at the house for lunch, we found thet Mrs. Buitenbos
hed sent over by prau an interesting reistefel, acco pan
o delicious small fried fish, chicken, and saiyo - a loc
consisting of green leaves of trees, stewed in coconut milk. Every-
thing is fried in coconut oil, B. explaining thet "this is a good
system; it is not a good system to fry in putter". We had on the
table three kinds of banenas, smell fruits called lansop (something
like pession fruit) and gondoria (something like a smell mango),
the most delicious mangosteens, kanari nuts, rambuten, sego preed.

&

The mangosteens are deep brownish red on the outside, and a peautiful

ont”

L
as

i
Cc.
1

«51s

deep crimson on the inside. The edible porti on is pure white, end
consists of from five to seven segments of juicy, delicate, slightly
acidic fruit. Kanari nuts ere tender, white, rather like almonds in
flavor. Each nut unfolds into closely packed segments, and in fact
consists of tiny new ss aves, ape = unfold and sprout. cago breed
is heavy end tasteless, end is bal in a mold which turns out five
little loeves ell x oined together es the bottom.

After lunch we tested our first durian. The odor when the
fruit is cut is of sourness end decay. inside are lerge white
segments of fruit, end you take one in your fingers end get a
violent smell of limburger cheese, Scummoning up your courage you
bite into it, end find ea rich, custardy fruit, that testes like —
strewberries end chocolete end coffe with creem,. We Sg e that
the flevor hed been slightly overestimeted, the smell,however 5
not BUS .S bad as we hed been led to believe, though 40° 415
from please In fact ES ee de wore on, end the odor =

le yerve | the house end the beech end the forest, it was

ae

ell efternoon. We slept, end
bay through the coconut pelms,
1€ 3 of fmbon showed on the Opposite
a men in the next village hed two cuscus ,—
runner to see if we could buy them. He
eshlight along the beech, for a five-hour welk sie ;
thet the neerby villege wes Christien, and that istiens
pecey so they were very shy end herd to cetch. The
erther av wes Mohammedan, and as they did not hunt the

vay
a) |
by
fr,
a F

Oo”
tom ty

tS oct

Sd

te

ber

by Cr Sd Fe

anos
ey
ay a8 48 — O
ta OG chk Fs th
bm bw frruged
fo? pe

ope ry be
@

™ kk OS

Qk ct
a)

ae
cy
was much easier to cetch thentl 1ere.

cos
je
ct F

©

Dinner wes a similer reistefel to the one we hed et noon.
Bill and I gorged ours ; ON Mengosteens, bale are _now at the
height of the season, ‘fresh Sie the tree
my ixteenth é voice oft e edie tam
more Eruit. otar
hunting companion sof Bis, ‘eplmiine “at me. | as. WiER
@ strange asl V etl of tags of English which thi has picked
up at the movies. ie whistles fairly recent jaz end is always
coming out with some remerk such as "O.K." » "Yes we Heve No Bananas"
The movies ere e great help to students of Fnglish! B. tells us
that he learned his English in school in Jeva and in Holland, but
keeps in prectise by listening c cerefully to the dialogue in the
films,

April 17

Up eerly and wer or a walk Long the beech. Hundreds

Of hermit crabs in the gaudiest sh iia lable scurried about.
Most of them were tiny things zi shell wes different - some
striped, so e pearly, some with long teils on them. and of every color

the rainbow, Feiry crabs flitted abo oral is on the beech
in quantities. Also huge jellyfish, ee ear and the shells of
both the pearly neutilus end the cha be P S We welked through
@é neighbor's plenta ition, end picked up Wille 2 youngster but e good
bush boy with keen eyes Bill Cobae rechus, making two different
kinds of nests of silk and chewed-up cas, "and Odontomachus of the
Imperator group, es well e something thet he thinks is Rogeria and

~

Ss
possibly a new species. Willem locsted severe] Polyrachus nests for

=i
Bill, and showed sublime indifference to being bitten by enything -
ents, wasps or scorpions. We had a long walk in the forest, strolling
along through a gentle rein. When we approached the coast again we
ceme through netive back yards, where they were boiling palm syrup,
end even meking “gin” out of pelim wine with ¢ perfectly good little
moonshine still.

Along the beach we stopped to investige
various little streams thet empty into the sea. The weter was
brackish, of course, but many of the small fish we were une Le uo
identify. In one stream there were corel fish and Ponjpynpr rok mre
in another smell fish beste looked like fresh-water ie reer’ ‘put were
probably the young of @ salt-water fish; in enother some of the
spiny snails of this Meee of the world - small, but dengerous to
step on with bare feet.

te the water wi
¥2

omell fishing villeges line the shore. The sego palm is
the weet useful single product, being put to even more uses then
the coconut pelm. An Ambonese can live for a year on the breed
mede from one plent. The leaves are used for thetch, the center
nerve of the leef - es thick es a strip of banboo - is used for
the wells of the houses. Thus they get both boerd and room from
one source. The cenoes ere dug-outs, and very nerrow. I doubt
if I could fit myself into one. Most of the villagers were either
curious or friendly toward us. but one smeil child began to scream
at the sight of us, end his mother picked him up hestily end
ran for the house as we approached.

Shortly efter our return to the house, the runner we hed sent
out the night before ceme welking briskly up the beech, carrying
ea lerge cage on his back. Sure enough, here were our two cuscus,
young animals, but epperently heelthy and with good appetites.
They ere a sort of Australien opossum, with brown fur like a
kinkejou's, pointed noses, big hazel eyes, and a long, bare,
prehensile tail.

We learn ek great deal about Ambonese manners and customs
from B. Life here is too easy, he seys, and the Ambonese are the
leziest people on eerth. Fach one hes @ smell plantation, and
sagos coconut support them with ¢ minimum of effort. Fruits are
alweys availeble in the jungle, end fish are plentiful in the see.
Anyone who wants to run a large plentetion, or a vegetable gerden,
must import his workmen —- here at"Nipa", the Ernstens! place, the
laborers come from Timor, Butan, Papua, and other regions, never
from Ambon itself. Meny of them ere Christiens, but, says 8.,
they go to church neerly every Sundey end yet they steal. "Not a
good system." It rains alwost constantly. Ambon is the Maley
word for dew, but Amboina, the neme we know for the island, is
a cowbination of two words meaning father end mother, end which
is the reel source of the island's neme nobody knows. The plece
is rich in history, with the successive reestes of Portuguese
and Dutch, the long wers over the spices of the islands. We ere
reminded that these ere the islands Columbus wes looking for when
he stumbled upon Americe.

In the lete efternoon I saw one of the most amezing fish
displeys that I heve ever seen. A big school of bonita or some

&

similer fish, jumped et the epproach of an invisible enemy.

Je.

The fish were lined up like so meny soldiers, and jumped in unison
at perfectly regular intervals. The sound of their bodies ell
hitting the water et the same time, end repeated six or eight times,
sounded like gunfire ecross the weter.

April 18 - Ambon

EFerly in the morning we loaded our gear, heavier now by the
cuscus csge, into the rowboat, end started back for Ambon. It wes
cloudy and threatening when we left, end reining hard by the time
we got across the bay. I huddled in ny raincost, end Bill proudly
held a paper umbrella over his head as the boys rowed es hard as
they could.

In the morning we supervised the meking of @ cage for “our
new animals, and did a few errands in town. Passing a church we
hesrd whet sounded like e country organ - this is Sundey morning -
but B. told us it wes en orchestre of bamboo flutes. About ten
men play on flutes of different sizes, and of course the simple
reeds, pleyed in unison, sound exectly like an old-fashioned
orgen. It wes very pretty, end the soft Maley voices joined in
in transletions of Dutch hymns.

In the evening we went for a drive with Mr. Smits, whom we
met on the Van Imhoff end who is staying here until the next boat.
He is an emeteur orchid collector, and drove us out to Passo, @
villege about twelve kilometers away, where the principal industry
seems to be selling orchids. They are hung on small posts aiong the
side of the roed, and sell for fifty Dutch cents a plant.

April 19 - Ambon

: In the morning we went for e welk up the mountain side in
beck of the town. We hed intended going only a short way, but the
path was good, though very steep, and Bill found collecting interest-
ing. In a keyo putih (eucalyptus) grove he found a huge display
of Myrmecodia, end hed one of the plants cut down, and then dissected
so thet we could 211 see how the ants utilize the chambers in the
paresitic plent as a nest. Iridomyrmex myrmecodiee wes the ent in

this perticuler cese; the plant is ne ed after the ant and the
ant after the plent. When we hed climbed for en hour or more we

came to a nice little village, where we bought some coconuts to
drink, end here we leerned that the government rest house wes oniy
a little ferther on. So we climbed up to the top of the mountain,
so e 450 meters altogether, and sat on the verendeh end admired

the view of the jungle below us, Ambon in the distance, and the

see beyond that. We hed been there only es few moments when a

heavy rain begen. It seemed doubtful that we could get back before
lunch, and in scouting eround the neighborhood B. found for us

three kinds of banenes, delicious ripe mangosteens, a can of Califor-
nie serdines, sone sweet biscuits, end netive cigarettes. We could
have spent the dey quite comfortebly, but about twelve otclock the
bain stopped end we came down the path, which was much more slippery
than the ascent hed been when it wes fairly dry. The little village
nesr the rest house is inhabited by soldiers who have retired on a
pension, end is most attractive - solid little houses of bamboo
covered with plester (ean earthqueke-proof construction), and
surrounded with gerdens - roses and orchids both were plentiful.

a A

Bill found some interesting Polyrechus nests on the way down -
the nest made of chewed—up berk fastened together with silk, and hung
on @ thorn bush, looking so ething like a smell-sized oriole nest.
B., chasing efter a beetle, got stung by a wasp, but es he explained,

ucking his finger, "that was a good wesp; that big bleck one there
1S a bed wesp. Even e cow will die if that one stings her."

Aprilgx 20 - 21

We did little for two deys, except supervise carpenters working
On cages for us, shop occesioanally, having so e shoes msde for me,
picking up various food supplies thet we thought we might need in
Ceram. The Toko Makasser is our fevorite store. 3 in

myself to a piece. It
Btion of cellophene, had lost all

its elasticity, and elarringly dissolved dow my throat before I
realized whet had heppened,

April 22 -

terday, did not

Our steemer, which was supposed to sail s
1 ing behind the
ut

leave until todey. asked up once more,
, its minor cocforts :— ttle brush to
itoes is carefully placed in the bed each night, our
e hung on 2 rack that hes a klambo draped over it - a
good idea, for mosquitoes love to rest in onets clothes during the

ye
1

er
a

We had to take a leunch out to the Makian, the little freighter
thet goes to Cerem, t is e wotor ship, with two cabins for
pessengers, and we felt eas though we were on a private yacht. Th
saloon is on the forwerd deck, end here we spent the evening, watching
Ambdra disappear into the distance. We came out of the deep bey
and around the islend, so thet the although the town lights soon
Vanished, the bulk of the islend remsined visikble as long as there
was light to. see it.

Li sailing eround Ambon (incidentally the islend is Ambon,
the twon is Amboine We stopped et Sapoeroee for e couple of hours
in the orning, but as we did not dock, and as it was raining hard
there seemed little reason for going eshore,

ehortly after noon we came in sight of C end took three
hours to sail up the deep bay t eeads to the ttle town of
Piroe, Frow the ses there is tle to indicete thet the island
is inhabited, An occasionel w smoke curls up from the
mounteins, which ere heavily fo a, with occasional wide petches
of grassland. Piroe itself is i sted by a small dock, a
arge roof of the resthouse.

4.40, end found thet the main street of

b |

= vay from the see, and that there is more of

& = 3
a village here then we hed thought. On our wey to call on the
Controller we gs ed first at the Assistent Controllerts house
to ask the way, end saw some animels in en outdoor cege. There were
four cuscus, a big whit cockatoo, a fruit pigeon, and e purple

~55-

lory. We peused long enough to hope thet these specimens might be
for us, end then went on £m to Herr Lost house. We had tea with him
and his \ wife, and were delighted to find that he had already notified
the natives that we were coming, that the little collection in his
assistent's yard was for us, and that he would continue to spread
news of the expedition to the outlying villeges. This is the

most help we heve hed to dete from any govern ent officiel, and it
wes indeed heert—warming. We had tea with this friendly Dutch
couple, end looked at some very good photographs that he hed mede

in the interior of the island.

Proceeding on foot we arrived shortly eat the Pasanggrahen,
and were pleased to find that here a resthouse is called Roemsh
sobat —- the Friendly House. It is a lerge, kxikew airy structure, with
tile floors, cement walls, roof thetched with sago palm, end the
ceilings and partitions made of the central vein of the sego - a
sturdy rib that looks like bamboo, f& police inspector aoe the
only other guest here, end we moved into comfortable rooms
exch one furnished with e bed (made, like so many out me with
slets or boards instead of springs), ea klambo, e washsteand, and
a teble and two chairs.

eS

We had dinner of nasi goreng, end went early to bed.
April 24 - Ceram

Karly in the morning we went for a walk along the beach to
the next village, Eti, about five kilometers ewey. We were not
walking on the beach, but taking a path that peralleled it all
the way. We crossed dozens of little streams, that ere brackish
when the tide comes in, and fresh weter between tides. We could
plainly see Hemiramphis, Peridthalmus, Tetradon, Scatophegus, and
other fish in the clesr water. The peth led through a dense thicket
of sago palms and second growth, with an occasionel forest tree
towering above the others. One great tell one spreed its branches
all on one high level, looking like an enormous umbrella.

Eti proved to be g nice little netive village, with tidy
small houses made of sago palm. The Rajah 's house wes plastered,
with a wide verandah, where we stopped to pay our respects to
him and to his wife. ffter smoking a cigareete with the be-
spactacied old gentleman, we went on es tour of the ville nc
found one black-cepped lory, which we bought, popped int
leaf besket, and brought home with us.

ge,
fe)

smell boys begen bringing in one animal after enother. Purple
neopets red lories, a tame green lory with e brown head, a white
two smell boas, one purrowi ng snake, turtles, white

fruit pi geons (very young heve to be fed by hend), 2 big cuscus
a medium sized cuscus (a Lso tame ) - e most heartening collection
for our first dey. B. would start out to make the rounds of the
villege. Every time he found thet a native had a pet he would
heve him bring it to us, and all the snell boys in the village
would follow them in. All they needed was a brass Bi ae for the
triumphel procession.

We were scercely inside the Roemah Sobat when e troop of

The ceges that we brought with us from Ambon are already
full, The turtles are turned loose upon the floor of an en opty. room.
Pigeons are sitting on top of ceges. Ihe cockeatoo and the green

lory swing from home-mede
bags thet ere hung on Ol
ave every time you ae 2

we

ir clothes
a dress
(tjitjek)
amboo cage

with

oth

a

_ Pay i Spee
we are getting <s
the owrr wanted
the world S
and

est

A

we can neg ‘thei

rer

ba

Pd

cc

s the reguler price for

ebplished

HO. 0.
OF

efternoon, and

petter

4
Serve,
&

arrots

par

¢ Ww

2 perches over eae doorwey.
during the ni

and say "This is like the g00 do
hornbi Ld wes PECvEHe® in to us

Pole

failed to get it, but will later.

Williems wes feeling rotten this morning, end we sent for
the doctor. He is e netive from ae Sapoeroea, but trained in
Ambon, and the government doctor here. He seemed a bright young

hap, and prescribed various remedies for Williems' persistent
ugh - he hes been ill ever since we were in Betavie. W. got up

although he hes

e

un-zoological on the whole trip he at lest capituleted, and ees
friends with the green lory end with the young cuscus. He even
didn't ind much when one of the Mendoer's hens laid en egg on
top of his wardrobe. begs 2 note to send Dr. Poetirey a semple
of Urea to try on tropic sores; both frembosis end melaria

ere bad here.

We hed plenned to go for e collecting walk this morning,
but were so heressed by our sheftege of Cages» and by the increase
in specimens - more turtles, a tame baby cuscus, another green
lory - thet we stuck around camp ell mor ning. fpout nine e
weary young Catholic priest came up the peth. He hed walked
for four hours out of the jungle this morning, end wes bedly in
need of refreshment. He ordered coffee, but seemed to enjoy the
whisky and cigar thet Bill gave him. He wes eccompenied by his
boy, carrying his worldly goods in tin boxes loaded on a carry-
ing pole. He hes been here le years, end before thet in New Guinesz
for ten yeers, without ever e vacation in kurope.

One gecko got lost last night, esceped out of the sego
palm cege that a native had made for it. The young pigeons, efter
being force-fed, are perking up considerably. Some of the lories
ere fighting, and some of the cuscus making friends. Buitenbos
bicycles to a villege ten kilmoeters eway to tell them to collect
for. us. We feer thet we heave exhausted the resources of Pitoe
but sey hopefully that there ere still the outlying districts to
be heerd from. SAREE

}

a %" 4 5 }, “4 7 on 0: . ra : vs 4 “~ 2 Pr eS CUE CO — co
GULOMODLIILE, electric lL: ight ht felephone or
pa om 3 . me ery a 4 ON ages +. m quae
oe ~ the neerest epproech to being

rr}
7

The snekes ere
klembo here for clothes
mosquitoes fly out).
vel low co down his
ght And Bill
la de VS$

re

ek (no

=

2

and
now
put

‘t

=
2,50 in Macasser. "We berg

Satu - stengah he
birds — one guilder

S
en

Cu

>
a

declered himself violently

OU 89: 26 ho: tol. Rong firbes rn Mak yok! Rezo &Ie
Go neat mere - Oko ine Coury "‘Qufirus —~ Mardoer gel
ot Geis. jot Melos, pace. Revo Fo. Meas rot pee - fag
tut WUM- wom teat - Calleet up oe Se Oe a ohiicg new macad -
po oe QA tw - [Lin ale carl wo | Yoel - hes w- ee

od propre w - ywwtti pede. Lind - tesan- mateoo-

ag ae ans + ndrabbin at wight 1 ~tHrege- bl Co ae
bwin - jellne oar > feat, nell arte D ays tile mereuroe rm -
Webi Crude 2049 2 feet- Roan tip) fun Releier neratclh 2 bb

S wikos Lad to pudec- ry Anahs Spee ans ak a9 po Int dn W-

Syn aed |
on me rn en. Abe heals =

Soar Cornus Aa

Qn } Cc Ay oePa vw ( wwe)

oi VP indlentzes ( butte fy)
ote Warkeos AU wont 0A - Mow bw Sa ge wen (to lene) ry Cir tur |

Amides, Nbwto - Yvrd nwtuuth- Baw pre aio Tap pree- drm .
Werke A OF padel- sae ea lets pal var - (Asn hum oA 2 A.M-
acl ies hoy - W trai - reun mote - Wyman Goole by aban siny
2 POU? tw dd pace pee ha ha
W wir ests rude (ed , Cet Lruse, pag Gos (arcu ) -
Se WpLA ag by 9 Wham fo + non So AW
ogee ore

een Sra Aa uke Lrtry, Yb

var ie us Ac aber ) 1 Gre -
(Por che J tater dln eb Com | om’

ame dan. 1 doy © wee Wik agy f mins br Gos fr Cy Wt ct et
And. 4K Would y .

April 26-27-28 P iroe

Our days ere running pretty much on schedule now. We get up et
six, or shortly after, heve coffee, look over the menegerie, feed and
water the animels, and buy any new ones thet come in, Every morning
there is a line of netives offering us ell sorts of things. Bill hes
been enxious to get some Maleos, a curicus megepode thet looks like en
undernourished, long-legged bleck chicken. several of the netives
seid they could trap them in the ae’ end sure, enough, Maleos
begin coming in. At first we paid Fl. 1.25 for them; when we hed
severel ceges full, and the ennoying birds wouldn't eat, we sent out.
word thet we hed enough, end wented no more. Still they come in, end
we dropped the price to Fl. 1.00, 50 cents, finelly 25 cents. The
local policemen told us that the erket price on Meleos, which er
considered good eating, was ten to 20 pe eke, so we ere still peying
too feir a price to discourege the hunters We offer them rice,
cooked end raw, brown end white; maize, banene, gresshoppers, chopped
pigts liver, chopped chicken, sago pith,papaya, but the birds ere shy,
easily frightened, and afraid to eat. One or two heave died - either
from self starvetion or from injuries received when they were ce -ptured.
Bill dissected one, to find out what was in the crop. It appeared to
be vegetables, with e great deal of grevel, so we start sanding the
cages Liberaily.

Every morning we teke e weik out into the country. One day we
spent up a smell mountain stream, an idyllic spot, and we followed the
stream by walking up the iddle of it for a long way. Bill found
new specimens of Polyrachus, new types of nests, new habits. One ent,
Echinople, e heiry ant, was nesting in a hollow twig. This is e genus
he hes never ceught before, hinself, and he is delighted with it.
Buitenbos is getting very good et finding Polyrechus, though occasionelly
he deshes into the bushes end comes back reporting on a "left nest -
not e single guest." He found one enormous Polyrachus nest high in

e tree and brought it down. It was made of herd certon, instead of
bark end silk, and Bill spent helf an hour standing in the middle of
the stream so the ants couldn't climb up his legs while he took the
nest apert end collected viels full of the occupants.

Another morning we welked elong e new road thet is being built
into the interior. Collecting wes not much good, but we saw severel
interesting things. In one place e men end @ women were clearing the
jungle preparatory to planting cesseve. Bending to the beck—-breeking
work, cutting trees, and thorny scrub with inadequete-looking knives
they reminded us that life here is not so eesy after ell. Once a plen-
tation is sterted, it will support its owners with @ minimum of
effort on their part, but the beginning is very hard work indeed.

Farther elong on this seme roed we psssed whet looked like
cypress swamp, with cypress "haces sticking up everywhere through the
stagnant water. Crabs, prawns, hermit crebs, small fish were to be
seen all through it.

Another day we followed a road thet paralleled the beach

road we took the first day, but we did not go all the way to Eti.
@n one plece Bill turned off into a gerden, and found two new: species

Polyrachus, before he was informed thet the place wes baited for
wild pigs, and there was denger of getting en arrow through one's
leg if one walked into the trep. We left hastily, but not before we
hed a good look et two wild white cockatoos eeting durian in the top of
a tree.

Oe tee Bele a Uy. >?
13 Nanersr - &§ Men- F wm ~ ;
Ver lore do ural” - B rk Cine Chet Ap Ww hud -

) clued Reade - Cyber beppred uriete Cnt

: wlLf ) pe aree hawks. Dur of noch acer,

ne chad % tran pra = >

an. w. Rajah qy Sayre en af Q od Cry toleatw >? Curae -

(YrutealeRe’ - Urb - danced
agen vey tty / On chastra ‘\ ie Banbro
Veo bo Cyt fecp Tin Pape - wt yy men’?

Bionbs peaches hp for Chit Say i g~~ Reeds

-58—

Butterflies here are numerous and colorful. Great blue
and bleck ones thet look like the Morpho of South America, big
black and white ones that look like lece, yellow, orenge and brown,
they drift exquisitely through the sunny etmosphere. Under foot
little lizerds skitter out of the path, shining like jewelry,
coppery, or metellic blue steel, or brown end green. Buitenbos
stops occasionally to collect orchids from some big tree; his
pest find wes e species he had never seen before —- a cluster of
small yellow flowers, about the color of goldenrod .

Nakivexxfromxkxjaun*hkajoewenxbrin®

At noon, or even later, we come back to the Roemsh Sobat. The
crowd on the street corner, wetching for us, trails us back to the
house, ell watching to see whet we will do about the one men among
them who has a lory, or a cuscus, for sale. As we approach the
house we find still others squatting patiently in front of the
verandah. Small girls hold out beetles on strings, small boys
offer us sea shells, one old gentleman hes a bamboo pole full of
millipedes. One men has mede such a lovely little woven besket
for e couple of small and useless geckos that Bill buys them
enywey. Usually he gives presents to natives for enimals he
eannot justifiably buy.

Sunday afternoon the Controller, Mr. M. L. Los, comes to cell,
followed by two netives carrying on a pole an enormous cage contain
ing two full grown cuscus. The next evening, after dark, the
Assistent Controller, J. W. F. Meijlink, brings three cuscus - one
pure white, one gray, end one mottled. They ere curious animals

end will meke e grend show if we can get them home alive. The
fur is thick end soft, and on the white ones is especially beeuti-
ful. The white ones ere not albinos, their eyes are brown, but
their ears and feet ere pink. The brown cuscus have yellow ears
and feet, and around their eyes is a circle of red, that gives
them a peculiarly malevolent expression. The young ones ere
very pretty, with their sharp little noses, big eyes, end soft
fur, but they are all ready to bite and scretch et the drop of

a hat. Bill spent ean hour end a half one efternoon trensferring
euscus from the inadequete bemboo cages in which they hed. been
delivered to us into wodden, wire-fronted cages which we hed hed
made for them. We have two carpenters working like mad trying
to keep up with the specimens coming in. We have bought up all
the wire in the village, and cages heve to be devised with wooden
bars in front. Two cuscus neerly eat their way out one night.
Buitenbos heers them, and gets up and neils fresh boards over
them by flashlight.

B. catches a kingfisher in the resthouse one ni:ht by
swinging a butterfly net over it. The next day Bill lets it
and mourns. He elso lets a beautiful lory, whom Meyneard
hends. He hed brought it

it - 'tAwkins wes eae pet before

suddenly spread both wings and zipped out of sight.

it was gone for good, but the Mendoer sew it come back, end ceught
it egeain for us.

Snakes are brought in usually in bemboo poles. Lerger
specimens are tied to the outside of the poles. We got two
fairly good-sized ones, e yellow sykmonyxzmad boa and Python
amethystinus, e dark sneke with a beautiful purple sheen.

-59-

wes heving a busy time transferring
g more substantial then a
e sneke hed been seen

2

Cc

Camp pets up to now consist of Miltiedes, e sweet little
green lory with a brown head, who sits on your ginger end seys
Ke-Ka in the gentlest little voice; Henry the hornbill, who spends
the day on the back of a cheir in the corner of the verendah. His
fumixisx daily supply of banens is cut up end the pieces put in a
row on a nearby ledge. He can reach over, pick up a piece in the
tip of his enormous beak, and toss it down his throat without ewer
appearing to swallow. Henry is a dirty bird, and prectical Bill
convulsed the camp by setting a pot directly under his tail - the
plan worked, too, - al most perfectly.

April 29 - Piroe

Nord of our expedition has spread to Lajoewen, the next
village beyond Eti. Men come stridely briskly up the path,
with bundles end beskets slung over their shoulders, es fresh as
though they hed just started on their ten-kilometer walk. They
pring us snekes, cuscus, maleos, and ouantities of orchids.

The orchids are the long spreys of white blossoms
discovered by Rumphius in Ambon, and known as Phalaenopsis
amabile. The netive neme is Anggrek boelan (moon orchi
the Dutch name Vlindertjes (butterflies). We have a
of them on the table, as casual as dogwood at home this
yeer.

The men from Lajoewen are e good netured lot. Bere from the
weist up end the knees down, they grin as they offer us the
animals they have caught, and are always cheerful about the price
they receive - which the local tovm people sometimes ere not. One
woman brought us « small, moth-eeten fruit pigeon, for which she
asked two guilders. It wes worth about ten cents, if that, and
Bill refused it. Later she sent e small girl with it, esking
one guilder. Bill offered 25 cents, but she held out for fifty.
The seme pigeon kept coming pack to us, until there wes practically
nothing left of the poor little thing. :

We pought to-day & peautiful big white cockatoo, very tame,
end with an smazing vocabulery. He mutters very fest whet are
probably Melay swear words; he berks like e dog, howls like a
whipped puppy, whistles snatches of song; sits end ruffles up
his white feathers until he seems about to explode, and all in all
provides a large percentege of the amusement erovnd camp. His
neme is Jacob, end Bill threetens to present him to the N. G. &.
when we get home. He would certainly enliven thet dignified
lobby on Sixteenth Street.

a pretty place. The rest house i
a all day the native preus rock gently

yard. $2 nelly we heer the weird notes of nati

conch shells to cell the wind so that they can sail hom

We are having full moon, end the nights are almost

es day. When the moon comes up over the coconut p

WW

x
walk down the roed to watch it. Williams says: sg 2

is close to the
vy in our front

cd

ves blowing on
e

b

~60-
?

series of ten-cent postcards, except that this is real.

A well-treveled highway goes pest our door, end the procession

of natives is never lecking in interest. Small children, sometimes
neked, sometimes half- dressed, sometimes weering 2 cereless length
of checked ginghem slung over one shoulder. An old man from the

mountains, with curly heir and @ curly peerd, goes by weering
nothing but a berk loincloth, showing tattoo *merks on his withered
chest. A women cerrying the ” indispensable petrol tins on a

pole, has 2a APT ES green leaf under her chin for no apperent reason.
Goats, dogs, cettle that are a pe eculiar mixture of banteng and
zebu, join fie humen procession. All the produce of the country-
side is brought in on human sho sulders and offered to the market -
bunches of benanas and plantains, ears of dried maize, coconuts,rice,
taro, tapioca root, end elways and always See - bundles of the
leaves for thatch, bundles of poles for a thousend uses, pelm-leaf
baskets of the flour for bread.

sp

To-day is roast pork day in caiip. Once a week a pig is
slaughtered in Piroe, provided thet the owner can get enough orders
for the meat for that day. Beef is gnneiiors We get chicken and —
rice kwxee 2 dey in one form or another nasi ue r breakfast,
rei sta Rekfor lunch and dinner othe “chicken, pl

chicken end rice(which the Mendoe er calls ragout and Bill calls

Taney. chicken soup, and other oi ations for which there is no

4)

09
ky
MD
ae)
0a

name. We supplement the Mendoer's cuisine with x ious tinned
accaias ~ chutney, pickles and jam; split pea soup, beked beans,
sausage - and do very well, until the evening when “BLL decides to
have a maleo. It was tough peyond descri;, tion.
Every afternoon the rein begins — sometimes a steady downpour

for hours, sometimes an occesi ional shower, léfting in time for

3 gorgeous sunset over the mountains thet rise from both sides

en arra

of the Bay. Reinclouds march pa st ia mountains then in
of colors, and the sky turns even the water pink with reflections.

o

meleng of three empty
on of native music.

hildren in the back yera mM: a gam
tin cans, end solemnly plunk out an imitet

e

=
La
7

ooker

A men tries to sell us a besket of fresh prewns for
breakfast, end enother brings in @ pyschid caterpillar in @
six-inch Gas 5 € of grass. Case and all walks along the road, look-

=

ing like nothing on ea iron:

We try the meleos on chopped pi ig-'ts liver end heart, but
they still do not eat.

April 30 -
Princess Jpliana's birthday

lock the Rajgh of Lejoewen arrives; fe
t is very spruce in an immacu
I e

c dc
lake slele for US, xe netional Aarne
four men made up

cS
ste’

eae. end eround the
cloth, which hung

Three women and ee
the orchestra. The men w
waist was wrapped a berk-

43
2 0
o 8
aS .

ey

down like an epron in front. Strings of colored beads reached from
the shoulders to the waist, crossed like suspenders. On their
hends were turbans of turkey red cloth, trimmed with small shells,
snd into the turban were stuck the feather head-dresses of the
national costume. The feathers, mostly fron cockatoos end parrots
but wit. occasional delicate sprays of pird of Paredise feathers,
stand up, adding ten inches to the men's height, and small bits

of red and green flutter in the breeze. They wear arm bands of
shell, into which are stuck long bunches of palm-leaf strips, yellow
and green, end bunches of bright croton leaves. The men in the
orchestra, instead of the feather head-dress, wear a top knot of
fresh green ferns, with a short palm fringe falling down over their
eyes. Thex dancers carried s 211 wodden shields and swords.

The women wore hend-woven searongs, jackets of printed red and
white cotton, silver and sea shell bracelets, beed necklaces, belts
end heed dresses of strung rings of brass and nickel.

man end woman

Williems photographed each MEMWEYXGLXEREXEFSMp Si y and in
groups, using color film. Certesinly there was no lat color
in these outfits. Then everybody went across the road to an
open meadow, and the dances were performed for the benefit of the
movie camera. ;

The Chakalele dances are wear dences. The women, lined up in
front, dance quietly, with smell movements of hends and feet,
turning their downwerd glances first to one side and then to the
other. The men in back of them, chanted a war song, and waved
their swords and shields while they stamped about on the grass.
Then two of the warriors put on a fighting dence, which ended with
one of them killing the other, cutting off his head, and dancing
away with the feather head-dress. The orchestra, of bamboo flutes
and conch shells, pleyed weird music, while one men counted the
rhythym aloud in a chant.

The Maroe-meroe dence was the last one in the group. © 10 was
originally the dence done around the cut-off head of e vanquished
21 In these deys the dance is done at night eround a lantern,

is 21 gs retelling all the events

into the center of the ring

to represent a heed, end men end moved
in a slow circle around it, singing en endless song.

Afterwards we esdjourned to the resthouse verandah and
served refreshments to the Controller end Mr. Meijlink and the
doctor, who had cone to see the show.

kprkxkk May 1 -

Memorable es the first day on which we could observe the
meleos eating anything. We now have nearly twenty of them, and
they are shy, wild birds. ‘Some of them were distinctly seen to
eat brown rice and papaye, end our spirits rose considerably.

end denced for us. +S S serongs
of various colors;

red jackets. Each child clu : hand and
a lerge handkerchief in the other. Some of the songs were
very pretty, one was "Noese Ina", end enother was "Kole-kole."

~6?—

The children danced @
the Menarie, imported
coast.)

long, rather slow-moving dance called
fro. the Kei Islands (off the New Guinea

Noess Ine means “Mother Island", and is used for Ceram.
There sre two explanations of the origin of the name. One is
that Ceram is the big island, and Ambon, Saparoee, Heroekoe,
end Noesaleoet, small neerby islands ere her children. Another
3s thet the sego grown in Ceram feeds the peoples of all these
islands, and hence Ceram is mother to ®hem alli.

Kole-kole is e small native cenoe, and the song was e long
one, accompanied by a gentle rocking back end forth of the
children's bodies. Me of the verses were rather naughty,
judging from the roers of haughter thet went up from the sudience.
Some of them were of ferewell to the one setting out to sea

some of them were love songs, some of them were appeals to

not to forget them when we were fer away. Many of the vers

were impromptu, made up by the school teacher as they went

and hence not so effective in chorus am# es the children in

the front row could not hesr just whet was being suggested in

the back row.

scher, a spare, sol
cS

S

directing both
Dutch flag for a baton, or keeping t
Drums and bemboo flutes furnished th

2
o

ime
e 2ccom

occasionally even while the dance was

After the dance we ell went over to the Controller's for
cold drinks and 1¢ eam Whest a wonderful thing ea kerosene-
run Frigidaire is his country!

The Makian was anchored off
down on the pier to meet the boat, found two of the officers whom
we hed known before, end hed a pleasant visit with them. The
lights

gave 2

: 7 ae so YR? ie eet NY:
shore all evening. We went

and we are
We have 24 ca
to be stowed
nobody knows,

1)
by
» 0a @

pack up with n
animals, and how
little governmel
native ceptain says

my

oOKaO-

ti

DO 09

+
At breakfast Williams got/d sing the clever

which the women change sarongs, 2 ced if it would be proper

to reauest permission to photogra j Accordingly e very pretty

picture wes arrenged for him - si ight young women bathing

in e small nearby pool. They weer thei sarongs into the weter,
mselves and each other, wi e good deal of

merriment. the bank ick up the dry

—

sarong, slip : nd

€
7

Sor

five
{

The

&.

pend

|

grind
iy

Gee

head.

for

an hs ’

att
we

ie

beth—hou
Oo

One

to
dq

ri

g into clothes

oi

eM
nf

is

S

in

*

rent

1e M

h

ble

an

struggl
ee

Yr Ole
S

ok

dl

e

"|

&
ie

onent

We

and
hout benefit o

soon to
eC

b |
it
that he

o

few

3

bl
wr
Ad

n (betel).

~

i
des

bushe

who

LiL Our. m0V

red—toothed

all morning
gr

athing
Cy

aed
c

¢

nely young deught

t

ng

leos,
K

Loe
pa
Fae |
Sat

°

&

ie ps

7

A
}

seve

f we want to go b

tehee, th

gain i
st

for the m
morn

Ste

n our undre
f

ee

the

co

gent" all week if he ce

corn
cents.

ha
en
CG

vely
be

an

st
19

gain
posi

on

Cc
on
a

all heve to

ter cese
pooks

wri
a

a= ‘ id

constant battle
eiring everything before

&
ce
iy O f wern

e
e

1
we
7
ober
r

side of
mets, to

ag
ae
e 5 t

ak
av
ef

10—d

¥
rr

emf
cL a
fy ©
eS
Ps =
ri @®
roe a a
ey

A
2:
&

d

cs,

een

Soe

ed our

~

cmebow

ar

Loe A

~

end lL

}
i

gy

ray
i
7

sf

i
we SES BE

~
Cc ce

5

thee

Nn

es

¢€

afternoon we

lete

€

. wey

nfectant

isi

%

shoes, hel
whenever there

been

J

120

i
&

Wnere
promptly

ae

rr

i.

i

Vi

™

low,
aKe

ze
bottom, it

oe
e

&

ch

¥

very

aed
Pn

a

ped

~~

scré
id I began to t

erystal clear,

Lous
¥Y §0O
e pe

m

ort to keep the cur
bd

xe

;
whe
<7

al
Ee

ef!
v
h

%
h
i
r

Cc
a
O

vow
mu ,
—

5
ena

ing,
from

4

rol
vO PO
ey Ay

uw = DO
aS 6
v co
: guano

©
®

;

LOW -Q

we

brough

~
Rare
bes §
a

na

. emt

to heave
O

on,

&
pi
%

oniee

ci

G

‘cole, whi
enp

oe

+ Se : 2
Kole k

+.
iJ

Ad

oy
5
&
~

9
€

RE

5
ahh? Ws

LO

(+ %

H
fond,

BE

prt,

&

na &

vO
a

pfu

H

V
e/

}
A

itenbo

e&
acter
[a
, a ‘

“

oir. were

Bu

e

3

ch

USE «

C

oe
~

-

ale

re to ple

tenbos!
church

Cc
&

we

fee Tite

ard

de

ih,

y

On

crowned

typewr

ye

pa
a:
as

ad

ae

ti
e€

£

he ate
Ww

the cock

onPl

&

c

May 6- @ Meacesser

We arrived et Mecesser lete in the efternoon, and Williems and
I went up to the Grand Hotel. Bill and Coenreed steyed on boserd for
some time to see whet ae Sige sie ae they couid make about storing the
animals until our steamer goes Through the kindness of the K. P. il.
we were ellowed to leave them on the Ven Imhoff, and Coenre
sllowed to stey on bosrd the entire time it was in port - @
unusual pr ivilege, put one thet greatly facilitates teking cé
our stock.

2a was
nost
ire of

The Grend Hotel is much @S 1U Wé&S, except thet the food does not
seem so bed, after our deys ir oe, and there is a Mode Expositie or
feshion show going on. I talked to the two girls who run it. They
heve come over from Soerebeia hoping to sell some clothes to the women
here, but say thet business has mn bad. The Macesser women ere SO
used to mmking their own clothes het it seems extreaveg rant to them to
buy ready-mades. Bill was emused to heve one of them hail him, as
him if he wes the "Zoo man", end sey that her husbend, @ tailor, |!

3 lothes f Brown of the Sidney Zoo when he wes here.

ed morning to meet Capt. Di
yon, who is something of ¢ neturelist
ls, which he wes sce to turn .over to.

| were three enoas

ret

ent

OD
oh
te

tp

ct 09

a 0 by ct
Oo
9% 0

mod sX

lories in every
TOT US

em to be complicetions about ee
Resident seys Diederich hed !

4 L,

12d been confisce ted by
to get metters

ae L ub ee
and even

We left the Hotel at nine o'clock, end drove to Bentimoerong,
27 miles inland. There is a very pretty water feil here, and we
climbed up an iron stairwey that runs elong | Above
the falls the rocky walls of the gorge Fu Ps with
eresting-looking caves here and there. ough ae
28) very sharp rocks for a couple o BILL 1en
nice litt ence
PPY morning

ev
matt

ct
es
C

O

Ou 9
|
Ss

epee
ee)
ie

bo
t

th ie
peed
.
—
SD Re by
a
ry
4

mS 0 ct ct PD
«..
mth

re
gor

a 45
Ou O

frmaget
Borat

vm
ost

oo.
a fy =

hPa © fy’ m
Ot

Hemire

re er rae

of orchids,
joe eS

lower on

Oo. Y oO wn ctr OQ ©

a ra
|

» O95 43) pie Js
©
cy

r”A @ fe

a. “a
“oy $ ‘

eee

¢

and white, and wes sitting on the ba nk crossing the tips of its
himees in a repid, scissor-like motion. Bill said "Oh - oh, there
is something Wallace discoveredif end promptly netted it.

Wexezme week The peth ren for about e mile th rough the woods,
snd then ec2 e out et the river's edge again, where another end s aller
weter fall roared out of the forest.

We had a picnic lunch on the edge of kx ae most unusual

swimming pool. The weter in the pool wes simply boiling with the
volume of spring weter gushing | ‘nto it. As we finished our sandwiches
rain began to fell, end we oved into one of the dressing rooms of

the beth house. We weited an hour or more for the rain to let up,

but finelly started off for home in @ downpour. I was especially
sorry the weather was unkind beéause there were so maeny opportunities
for pictures. Even on the wey home 1 wanted Bill to photograph SO
many things, including a smell end neked urchin riding on e pink
+"
Cc

h 33

caribou through a rice field. He had on nothing but en enormous hat
end a wide grin, and wes simply entrencing.

11 Gn all, it was.e grand ey» and a heppy chenge from sitting

r the hotel, weiting for enimel deelers to show up One can
alweys watch the procession going by, the amazing verieties of costume
end headgear end modes of trens sportetion. There ere plenty of the

encient open hOursns esers that we see everywhere throughout Eas De Ee ds
end thousands of fig Boog There are many little pony carts, with
plump small hors thet are alweys going at a quick trot,-— perheps
because they can cee out of the corner of their eye the enormous whip

that furnishes each verriage (I have never seen the whi ae used - it is
twice as long as the horse). But Mecessar's specialty is the push-bike:
s wodden chair wide enough for two, sometimes upholstered in leather

CY

or filled with cushions, ettached to the front of a bicycle. Sometimes
whole families pile into these bicycles, and are pushed by the men
riding the bicycle. We ere told thet there are @ erge nu ber of

heart cases in the hospitel here, due to the strain of this heavy work.

The Hindenburg hes creshed et Lakehurst, and I try to glean some
details of the disaster from the Dutch newspaper. Buitenbos has
already had publ lished in the Actuel WereldNews the pictures he took of

us in Ambon — and they ere not at ell bead.

eT eenpetiinas OF x.
May id =

We went down to the dock early in the morning and Bill and Coenraed
aero £ | a, ey Ms Bs ~ +4 Sy 5 £ « , VWew y oy

supervised the moving of Our enimais from the Ven Tmhoft to the godown
where they ust stay until tomorrow. We heve ebout 50 cretes now, and
the K. P. M. werehouse looks like 4 11 Zoo,

One of the Chinese dealers in town hes collected a lot of enimals

7}
ae
for us - more lories and perrekeets, end two more cassowaries and two
big pythons. These are to be delivere to us on board ship tomorrow.

3 Iwo had ice hes Nieb a Ah! -

ray 1t- Poot to hea ip haa iy iy Lar Dy wr ro nmr,
Pe Al ils Poets: Tho Ts Bars Oo pone

@ Yr PH) were Le Ano, Han ~h the olearh WA
hued Rak two Crake nods , 3 they were put whe
Pra 9 Haw Rrits finn ts Chritere aricued m percde
ite Aha oreres poe Ho nDip 5 es te utr
rr nw Qtapp Uno Rauws ott €D Capen. Lip +

hat ot Yrat Dre 3 Ao - (Ve

— ju He Lrwe Uiref no Ceame m OA
oa odie Wiens 1 icin Scileae b Riwr Pruament , We Daw
Ime Won =U ond inman Me Dice Lak Lar .

Yue mane o— : rn Asad van. Pop WAL
PO ae gk ofaard need up ns flattan. ac hilo’
CL Dl Pg en Teta The eamtz Cann wl
barca Ripa 9 wes AB up oe guns, plLarh Lo

om

yer hid ae, “pS 2 .

Ree | weed
COAL ee. meus ;
ie nn 0awch Ado, moh

ee pole, LacheQ Wopetdu. The i‘
AA-64 72 =e
ptaido y tow, Bet us Ad nl

— Wary! 5¢¢-~

ne abe pedd

Be 7 cok Woe eng ine a diy ee Gs
aap: Ue We bid te Saline handle
wer Bea I Oe eR hot re

F / Oe fete Co eA ee 1
ress me ees An Ata’ fut? 2 i

ier nt: : :
Curr) om Moola et. + Po
se, se bo hg rut ewes eee,
/ 8 Sa

5

(125

bre th iao

ms)

INe

c
Fremes

*
§
netis

:
~ ahaa

TAC) Y* Y?
4

a

rod
La ai
Gh
| pw
oe
Ss
rs nig
Nd beat

5 P | seed ‘ i , pon 75 t . +4 co ra \ pm, $ fy i

bi <9 ea ~ M4 od KG ea = ae - lla Necker
8 D f4 $ O09 O Sen Ot pp WY

peg a 4% T. ; omgymmeit ‘ i" ad
+45 Oo Od Grp» DO ©O od

aaa “ft ond fa $ 2 a a oom,
° pony py WO me QW O
’ /- erin, *

bb 0 WY OE a4

}
OO GH OoODbDnpp oO
OW nip feo ©

‘ wn, gont pal sowed
Wr a ap Foon phon + — pod Cy

“ 5 Pring be. ; an firs KM
HYP OF Part UY & WY ay
Hey ads

oO >» U2 O rd ert

se
“
oe Me
om, F ie
wh =
i. { 3
eon

CQ, V2
°

0 Pe O

4 se +42

™ ro
pone }
ree j
Na f é
ms Pa Peas: Tae Ee ee ee a moy ¢ i) parsers Po ame Stier ammen WP fee ate WY aiia Miao € be Sak OS uy Rare ORE
b Ned y VW rf 4 LY
al )

UTE

d.

“4 e <0) @ >
O eae Oo “ 49 oO O

oe vr 4 wr 1 rote eye. O cw

We arog tT HA oD ao 4+) () O ee Ci
VE VARI AO ee td 0
SS © O & SS by tr O W = pina © peed ek! 5 Oo WD oO O 4

t
c
O
=
>»
ia!
©
y
Ts hae
MLL
¥)
be ce
TC
ef
tT
=
A
c
x

-— Hf ~
Hmuowt g Oo *% 0 | ODS 0 COD BD MO ee Ba ee a
Hu OF uAG oO w pa f4 O OM OH VG ‘ eR
a » ond ee bom a ae b- ri e ae ae
() W 4 4 '@) O ps asee ~ Od wl eine '@) . ro 7“ Db oe fda A a
G4 o-| orf > ae Peng pete on pun hg Ord | J Vs pH tu +) eH
oe r i * * a * ae
ra Oc Ah rei OOO i 1 “0 L a

¥
By
t/

ca
th
> 4

4

*

pe
¥?
os
G
it
Y) ce
ad

7

fe
ar
pial
€

©
it’
2

,
VO
S

te
bh
eae
n
So
a

Ly

4

O MHC er OD th ed oe TO Mm OP — i y)
mo @ ® Q, Qy 000% 4p Hon © § r— +5
4) U2 > & 2402 Sr4+pP mp Oo Wig OO DV <0) <3 Ae wee |
a) “4 © HY Dery 49° send we SS = 0
On = © Op w ap © cA, 4 8 OU Se Oo
C24 <9) 9 O ed Od bi U2 er 2 © ae ee tc by 4d } =
POM GOO-4 arch 2 r> O'O C24 er SS hm TO
su QD “Jota © MR ae | S Aasgung ear i p ow ob
MH GP Ow 4 org 7. SG & Om OD & & “4 Co RH
i ee (

ign |
Som > oH dO fo bt O @ Sy Set p o1 40
by cS c ' ~ O tt q “4d OL QD | Jt or ~~ NS fe + O - O 4 + ~
Ori Wr O er jf OD OD = O tt
en pone rs rent ¢% ct ses a | co f 4
W 49 © Sauchad WW Ps wh ro bi Ud pred a hee ' oo | 18) 2 a 4
A ‘ F fs ie q al a - omy ¢ am 4 i
fae} M G4 © pH AO mM OF Ded CYC sj 4+ rq QD ree Vd =
P } o ray " a i “ ¢ bn am on *
owovogd0cu”§’coovodd © ae a | eT8) ~ © m4 OU
ne veal * ‘ “4 a ~ ‘. « © .*
i ee » P re» Va Or Ge Oo $4 © 42
ro , ct hm 47 4 “ome ; ~~ 3 er fia
ay pn a bn 4 “ SuHusa | PoHoiS Gs ae 46
“s My sen 2 om, yon jo ¢ pape ‘
th tf ~ ‘> or aafeand ci WW Us oe 4 a | pha pu ar U2 GW +2 OQ. Ce Oe ae fd oped 4
PO GH hs Qe : eee © ‘
Fo fey
$ ¢ ohnd isk

a de
an rex
>
3

t sees 4
S > 4) U2 op peed 4 BY 4 Py @ WwW in > i Sot G ra | $4 Cc) AL ar
Owe OD ed 4 O omdod ® fe roves § OQ, 43 © <7 rf |
Ow & OQ GH & © 4 BOr4 Gy & joa cL . Gi = 1 Se os
CS es Oy GW Dc e; OC, wD WY ® oO 49 44 oO M r4 a
iOp ah HS PO ee eS ea Os fit

eT
7;
oO
a
>
C
Some
:
+
nN
ins
te.
on a
_
c
S)
a)
ae
¢

t
oo
ex
1
h
Li
le

h
id
er
at
1 A
i he
4
te

S

,
i

¥ :

=
2
won't
parton abn
ae, 9 iid

{>

>
e*
r

t>

s

Orr
L

Y
t

f 5 ¥) a
eet aed

eC

ee
\?
&

an?’ e
r

Riel

7
ee

K

a

aly

3

o
P

ee ys &
od a

{

Cui
Logon

ae
fe CP pee SE

1 43 5 ee oa

rebvenu!

oy

Wee} koe Sow “ i S70 aa

TO! Bt Sete 6 ge An A

srl YN EO Be, OG Se & atts ORS ae AL
y

Ane | LA s g X 4 1 De dL
Yr 4 Awe Lr eg ae LAA. g ( a t- mr Vv LAH we aS cy" ee & psn ve
ng &

fret ee ew,

Lo.
Lo ee

An AL - Wrote Cnue rent y Gro
Veter oy OS OAT Oph | tee
army Ctr to: Vudu

th AA hada,
( i 4 As ee
Sangh : { ps ars WU? Uwe OBNWA7 A 4+

F an

a,
proeennd.

a |

es

pote

A A

YF

awd

3
“
“a
ai

bo Radin So hee
igio & ye he

Hone

i
|
3
wis |
4

ep

oa a

pro

plisoul

_ 2 Sept K. hep e oad Nita nA prey walle nr Aaweatbn ae
oA tw.
| : 2) Flac
ogy ee a
Awe Aes ee ee ee eh
RirreRy WALD - ee want ¢4 : :

Sup. G22M- Cie =

rere ne
~ a, |
Ome 40

m2

4) a (
) . ts
U2 +9 © ae

)

pod

es

oy

wi
ca

poor Rae

’
a
Ly
4
al

Penn
pes}

2 et

+
mp

i
ie
pa ae
@
Bi ie
.
he 5

*
€

pre

on re ye

\ } wi

eed

ore]
Cy - |

am)

a

rc

«prem

ri
Cc

* 5 mats

( ' Tr
a est ers LL We

\

pe
b
*
r

pid

potent
Ly

ae

ah

‘
oe

oq

a |

sorccunal

C) (i)
al Prost “od

Word has come from Assam, where the government wes trying to
catch a rhinoceros for us, that one wes ceptured but died "due to
the intense heat". So thet is another hope gone glimmering. The
American Consul in Bengkok writes that there is a rumour of a
rhino captured there on the northern border, but he “shudders
to think of the price that will be asked for it if and when it
arrives in Bangkok."

June 16 -

Once more we ell pile into the old red Buick, stow our
feet smong the cemeres end collecting geer, end leeve cemp in
esrly morning. We rode toward Siriboe Dolok, and the hills
where we hed our fsmous camping trip to Dolok Silau.e. iItis a
lovely morning, and e beautiful ride. At noon we came to the
Little town of Kabanjahe, high in tne hil.s, end stopped in the
nice little hotel for lunch. We had rather planned on stopping
b¢ 2)

7} Tange - _ abe waren ot } avs = SF aatAas - Ane T" oy cy
here, but the hotel was full, ana we decided to Brastagl

after all.
We had had e ter from Charles Nevs, who lives here
and describes himself

C2 a ; Q 4 7
an Old hunter, so to see ir.

N evs we

nw

went. He is a man of fifty, heavily bearded, stout, and mxpkxx
living alone in e pretty house with 2 lovely garden. Althouga he
had written to us in Bnglish, he teckel very atreae Baglish, and
we tried to tell him in German whet w He was a bit
vague. He said that when he hed firs t come rae sits thirty
years ago, there was plenty of game, but now the European women
hed come end there wes no more game. He got our hopes up by
saying that he knew where there were four otters, but that also,
it developed, had been a years ago. He explained that he
himself lived "like a Yogi", and the dogs were his children.
After eis: his pet hoe - a pair with a baby ~- we drove on

to Brestegi.

Here we found the Grand Hotel fortunetely had rooms for us.
Brastagi was veep: of the places I was prepared to be dis-—
L 1 yen about it at no: I@, ena pictured

a0 00 inted in. Lt hed heard so m
it as too much of a oe +t place, with little beyond the clinate,
the opportunities for sports end swimming, to recommend it.

But it really is glorious. Brastagi itself is 4800 feet high,
sotuated on a high pla beau, with ea view of the mounteins (2 2

voleanoes - count them) projecting from the plain zm. Close to

the hotel is Sebayak, that curious volcano with the creter belching
steam half wey wm up from the foot. Farther away is

a more conventionel, cone-sheped volcano. The air is crisp and
cool, even at mid-dey, and the whole country, stretching illimitably
to the horizon, is magnificent.

We started out to find the trail up vabayak —- not that we
wanted to climb to the creter
9 three-hour trail through the forest it might , good entomolog
cel collecting. We sterted up the wrong trail, and _Ggeeeres for
some miles through cultivated land, finelly finding path the
lef through pine forest (introduced Jepes . pine) “However
Beirne hacen ¢ bemboo flower oe et she |
esger to ge snd tne men foun i one or twe
Laheed up the view, so the efternoon

2
oS
bed €

Tt
a

Back et the hotel, we discovered that this wes the «nly
in the Eest where one coule get e hot bath. Then we hed e
ious dinner, eccompenied by wine in honor of its being the
wedding enniversery. Dencin 1g followed, so it wes really quite
evening.

Here egain we found the hotel notices smusing. One
P| sar wee

noteworthy one wes that "chits with unreedeble cignetures pane
not be accepted."

ow

June 17 -

We spent the morning seeing some of the country around
Brastagi. We went first to haw Deboek, 11 kilometers by car, |
end then a fifteen-minute walk through the strengest forest I
heve ever seen. Gnarled old trees with rust-red bark, stunted
and dwarfed, their misshapen roots sprawling over the ground
tovered. with moss, gave ae effect of an maar geon | or be-

Ay eee ee © 2 Tone

witched for The smell of sulphur wes nov: LO
* : a ot. Tn oo Te ony enn : ‘ im ft ~ on i} & ye
fe) pexL ore One Peaeciee Lic 1 é © Wri ch no >

ie i VW = € bei ¢ O LC £
na o Lees wherever pee IpEtr “epring:

TIT «

~89

After Tommie had gathered some
inhabited the weter, we went on to see the “Pet
short drive elong the road brought us to the eae
enc we welked throvgh a most beautiful wodds _
tropical forest, with enormous trees, aquentities of ferns
stresiis cutting across the path, and beceuse of the high
no ae iidity, — e few flowers thet one does not look
tropics. He > were violets end bamboo growing sice by
curious parasitic flower with tiny yellow blossoms end « pele green

Prt Loopec itself from the brenches of 2 jungle gient. bi saw a
butterfly with brown wings edged with white, end seid eS

it look like 2 bit of fungus?" f£ few minutes leter I sew fungus
growing on senother log, and seid "Doesn't it llok like =z butterfly?"
Bill found HeEE ES files a ong.the peth, - the first tine we
heve founed sO far from weter. The weterfall itself mace

sheer drop of “200 Peet, falling from the jungle above over e,
Perpongscieet well of rock fhe sprey blew in our 3 as

;
” { ages, fF os
i * 344
ee Bu
.

-

Liter lunch, we reluctently turned our becks on Br
fa oe Bae tee & a B. Oey ieee

enc left the gorgeous Who Sweps pleteau for the lower coe s
Not before, however, we had picked up a few pieces of Bra:
weeving. The speciz ity of the piece is ee white ceremoni

scarf, woven by the Bat with eae border design of brig]
— roed to Meden winds dowmm enc cow
oes ecross ea level platesu, end then dow egsin
3

<4 mar mIipyite
with every “minute.

June 18 -

We spent one of our characteristically hectic Medan
mornings, going to the Benk, the oteamship Compeny, woe 4 PP. M.,
+ the on

the Consulate, Eeng Hep the grocer'ts, end beck to € Eotel for
lunch. We hec good news in the mail Mr. Erowne wes holding for us -

4

nemely thet we cen heve four gireffe from the
fgusut.

OC

Fy

Beirne end Tommie celebrated by
¥1.80. Ingle end Marsh of Dolok acne were
very helpful in arranging for us to see the anedaat:
the Kerr Stesemship Co which we hope kgxkzke wiil
Anyone with e cergo ive enimels is personae non
seé, end we ere heving greet diificulty in getting

DRED ey
mo

ree © be me, wide, south,
a oF 2 ich are raised
co werehouses), end later by oil
dere ere very hendsonme, with their
3 between the tre Ss, Terns growing
Ol an expensive gercen.
to edmire the moscue,
which is one of the pag wees eae Ones. We “heve seen, Ornemented
of.

in color, end eccomper by « stetely muezzin tover,

: me i Kuiele Bin ena stoppec
enick Ae us good tafel, th Oe be this

mm Se LP Gh So CRORES ge OR a —“
one Of tne lew pleces we heave been we yw are oe a Ww olth

CA
xk | Daa | wy Q LAALAPG We i | parte Ve 49
8, a LWVAR Vv j hbo grsing a Ka ta by ye ¥) wae : = cal

Yn fe ee WA AL sree 29 E Ke MAA ee
VV— NW, VW rake hee ee Te ‘iat 9 vee AAS oe bee hrs i

| Ie. Uy Se es gt
og Us? - a YAP C Ae 7) oe pawn Se, aa ment Phar Cee At 1?
La itp Q

LAAL LAARAQ \/ MS 2 AAS Wi y)

if b

i XQ ( ) : \
) XK ie", MY W\\Aw WY

Thky XO AMAA hd Dp on TL _

a "hide Bae « Vere co 2) oe y

\ () { ie a ee, r Pint ee
Leo etre Le etter Crridini, He wed
4) +. KOA: ,

LAs Oat rd x

i ih : \ 4 a cw PN : a ae f\ 0 Hi
LA ws AS eS OW Ck pe O46 oUt. V Be" UV AS\AINYv3

rn es : 2 a :
MIL LAD si WA CA

t Ord BANKLO si dA,“ two and sat by the roadside to eat
them. They were reelly delicious, and I enjoyed them much more then Ri
dia the first time I ate durien at Ambon. Even the odor was less offen-
sive, and when we returned to Kwala Simpang we stopped in the market end
got some more to eat in the evening.

Mr. Mijts invited ys to come to his house, where we met his
ettractive wife and enjoyed ea couple of gin and tonics. While we were
sitting in the pretty, cool living room, with its view of the river and
the jungle beyond, the boy brought a half-grown oreng utan through the
room, end sat her in a big chair on the terrece outsice. A baby orang,
about six months old, was also brought in, end the photographers in the
crowd went wild, posing the two tame animals. Nellie was the large
female; the baby, @ male, is named KingKong - a ridiculously inap-
propriete name at his age. Mr. Mijts assured us thet it would grow
into one of the Mewa kude type, however, end then King Kong will be a
good name. He told us thet both orengs (Nellie hes been with them for
seven yeers) had been abandoned by their jungle mothers, picked up by
kind-hearted natives, end brought to them to rear. We hear the same
story so often thet we begin to scoff, es we are also told thet netives
are fond of oreng meat. Anywey, it was eae pleasant house, end the
orangs are probably sefer and heppier here then in the jungle.

After lunching at the Bouleverd Hotel in Kwele Simpeng we drove
on to Langsa, over rather rough end very dusty roads, Here we put up
at the Hotel Emme, a bright little freshly painted inn with e cordial
though very deaf Dutchman in cherge. The eir wes heevy with the
sweetness of white blossoms on = lerge tree. The hotel proprietor
could only give us the native neme (bunge puteh, meaning white flower)
but someone later told us thet it wes, I think, a form of Eugenie.

June 20 -

We left Lengse at 7.20, and drove ell morning through rather open
country. Of course we still had rubber plantstions and coconut palms,
but there wes e good deel of scrub country, end more different kinds
of pelms then we had seen before - arica, pandanus, nipe, end in certein
arid stretches the fen palm. There wes veriety all day in the vegeta-
tion. Part of the road ren close to the coast, and mengrove swatps
bordered the roed closely. Nipe pelm grew emong the mangroves. We
watched eagerly for crocodiles - there were many brackish inlets
where porosus should heve been plentiful - but there was never even
a splesh or ripple to betray the man-eater. We went through long
- stretches of pasture lend, where yellow headed egrets by the hundreds
pareded among the cows. A long stretch of casuarine trees, planted
on both sides of the road, mede ea lovely shady avenue; these were
succeeded by sweet-smelling acacie trees.

The natives, and their houses, also took on a slightly different
character, as we got farther and farther in Atjeh. The houses are
built high off the ground, end look very shallow in comperison with

-9?—

the high-pitched roofs of either the Batek or Meningkebau people. A few
of them had wood carving - one rather striking exemple showing an —
elephent silhouetted in the elaborete fretwork over the door - but

most of them are very simple. Wells of the houses were sometimes of
wooden planks, sometimes of saplings woven together, sometimes of

palm thatchrd.

The people show a great love of bright colors. A villeinous
cerise silk wes populer with both men end women for blouses, end _
clashed noisily with their purple or green sarongs. The women ere
comely, and the men slightly Mongolian in appearance, especially
the ones with long drooping moustaches. They are shy, however, and
if we stopped eiong the road to take pictures or to do some collecting
they hurried silently past us, insteed of gathering in curious groups
the wey people do in other parts of the country. No children shouted
Tabe or Horas as we pessed.

We lunched in Lho Semewe, which is right on the coest. A line
of casuarina trees on the beach makes the shore very different from
either the coconut palm beaches or the mangrove-swamps. We lunched
at a funny little hotel called the Cousijns. It was hot, and we
were in a hurry, so to seve time we tried ordering a cold lunch
instead of the customary nesi goreng. We asked for the various
cold meets and cheeses that constitute a Dutch breakfast - and sure
enough our bill read "4 ontbiets (breekfasts)". Beirne thought we
seved a lot of time doing this, but I noticed that Williams, who
Joimedxusxam arrived en hour after we did, and ordered nasi goreng,
wes finished with his meel as soon as we were.

The open, erid country was between Lho Semawe and Bireuen, and

it wes here that we sew the fen pelm growing.

We hed hoped to meke Takengon by night, es we are tired of the
monotony of the coast country, but it was half past three when we
reached Bireuven, and rether then stert a hundred-km. drive up into
the mountains at that late hour, we put up at the Pesenggreahan. It
was a nice little place, run by two Chinese who were especielly proud
of their kerosene-run Electrolux. Instead of having one large screened
section of the bedroom, big enough for two beds as is the custon,
we hed here two quite seperete klambos. In spite of the heat the
Mandoer insisted on closing the heavy wooden shutters as soon es it
was dark. I opened them two or three times, and finally had the last
word end wes able to sleep with the dengerous night air coming right
into the bedroom.

June 21 -

We started early in the morning, and took all day to get to
Takengon. The roed begins to climb almost as soon as it leaves
Bireuen, and winds up into the mountains, over a ridge and down again,
through ravines, over high open gress country, through jungle, eventually
into the coffee ccuntry. I do not know how high the highest pess wes,
but kke Leake Tawer itself, is something over 4,000 feet altitude.

Helf wey up we stopped at the little villege of Bleng Rekeal to
see Detoek Redja Soedan, one of the most femous hunters of the Atjeh
country. He keeps a little wuumkry restaurant, end we went through
it to get in the beck yard, we noticed pictures of’the old chief end
his son as they appeered in Shoedsack's picutre "Rango". We were
sorry that the Datoek himself was not et home kkxk, but we were told

coe.

Liege he was out in the jungle. He hed a big tiger caged in his back
yerd.

We picnicked beside the road, and stopped to collect in
several little revines. In one of them, where a small stream came
out to the roed, Bill and Tommie found the largest horned files
either of them had ever seen.

About four otclock we descended the last mountain ridge, and
saw the blue of Leke Tawar, hemmed in by forested hills. The little
Pasenggrahan was unusually clean end neat, end although not on the
shore of the Leke wes near enough to have a view of it .

We wandered down to the market, end were interested in the
different types of textiles shown here. In addition to the usual
batik, we saw some lovely woven head cloths of fibre and silver
threed. We bought several of these metallic pieces. One hideous
type of work thet is apparently very popular is e jacket or
blouse made of stiff black calico, very shiny, and covered with
embroidery in bright colors done on a sewing machine. We saw one
shop where the machine wes simply humming, turning out the
modern version of what once must have been an interesting art.

In a country where so much weaving is done by hend, these
machine-stitched embroideries ere most unattractive.

Behind the market flows the river that leads to the Leke.
A row of thatched boat houses were built over the water, stretching
from one shore to the opposite benk. These are shelters for the
fishing boats. The river wes humming with industry. Women were
bxkwin washing themselves, their vegetables, their children, and
their clothes. Men and caribous went swimming ehummily together.
Canoes went up and down the stream, which incidentally was
pordered with W. C."*s. Across the river wes a cluster of thatched
roofs tuxkxdenskedxkhexmative - e good-sized netive kampong.

We had one of the most delicious reistafels at the Pasanggrehan
that any of us hed ever eaten, end found a young Dutchmen, Mr.
DeJong, who is slso staying here, very good compeny. He is spending
his holidays up here hunting, end is much interested in the animals
of the cvuntry.

June 22 -

We took a picnic lunch with us, and spent the day following 2
new road thet crosses the high mountains to the south of Takengon.
Only 47 kilometers ere finished, but eventually the road will
be 200 kms. and join the roed that starts north from Kaban Jehe.
It is a well-built road, but a terrific climb - steadily up and
up for 20 kms. We hed to do it all in second gear, with the
result that the radiator of the car was soon boiling. We stopped
to let it cool off, and heard gibbons hooting in the neerby woods.
We looked up into the trees, and were delighted to find thet we
were right under e big troop of the cream-colored, white handed
gibbons. It wes the first good look we hed had at gibbons in the
wild, and it was a great thrill to see them running erect along
the branches of trees, making their incredible leaps from one
tree to another. They were so close we could see their features,
end they were almost as interested in us as we were in them, crouching
end peering at us with obvious curiosity.

Faas

Siamangs were booming in the forest ecross the road from the
gibbons, and we welked part wey up the road to see if we could
get a glimpse of them. They, too, came close to get a look at
us. Although they were in the tops of trees, they were on the
lower side of the mountain, and the tree tops were beneath where
we stood. We could see several of the big black fellows very
pleinly, and they swung from branch to branch, and made the
mountains ring with their terrific voices.

Later we saw a big troop of EFntellus monkeys in the same
locality. A big wild boar dashed ecross the road and vanished
into the forest. We sew several birds that we had not seen
before, including two kinds of drongoes and a remarkable long-
tailed jay. Much of the vegetation was new to us - lovely little
wayside flowers, - and of course thick jumgle on both sides
of the road all day long. In fect it was too thick and there
were few pleces where we could get into it at all to coll«ct.

The pass, where the road begins to lead down again, is
very high (Mr. DeJong says 10,000 feet but I don't think it is
that much). Takengon, which is 4,000 is so far below that the
country around it seems to be a low plain. From the pass one
gets e magnificent view looking out over range after renge of
mountains.

We hed lunch near e little stream. Although it was
mid-day the air was crisp and cool. It is grand to collect in
the tropics if one gets high enough, and to find rare tropical
fauna without shedding e drop of perspiration.

On our return we went down to have a close look at the
lake, end particularly et the swimming club, which I hed thought
of patronising. However, the shores of the lake are rather
marshy; the water was full of algae; and with all the native
bathing going on so close to the lake the water was really not
very inviting.

Nasi goreng for dinner - an excellent one. We took a
short walk efter dinner. The moon was full and the night was
luminous. The air was like mm thet of an autumn evening at
home - crisp and almost cold. Two blankets were welcome when
we went to bed, and we slept like logs for about ten hours.

June 22 -

We left Taekengon in the morning, and spent all the forenoon
driving slowly down the mountain, stopping to collect wherever the
country looked inviting. We had lunch by the side of the road, and
Bill found some more big horned flies, and I found a species of
Ponerine raiding a Pheidole nest. About two o'clock, when we had
covered not more than forty kms. rain began, and it poured all
the rest of the way. We stopped at Blang Rekel, meking another
effort to meet the old Datoek, but today he was in Bireuven. We had
hoped that when we got to the lowlands the weather would be clear,
but the storm c.ntinued until we reached Lho Semawe, about five
otelock. :

We stayed this time et another little hotel, the Pension
Emma, and ordered a reistafel. Across the road was a big grassy
marsh, and the buffalo were coming slowly home, silhouetted against

aShe

a sky that hed turned golden when the rain ceesed. A wide
rainbow stretched from horizon to horizon, and as dark fell the
night was cleer and cool.

My. J. H. Van Gauns, a former animel dealer, came in
from his plantetion and we talked with him until auite lete.
We had hoped he would offer to collect for us, but he said he
was out of the aniital business now. There is a curious jealousy
among Dutchmen out here: he hed read in the paper that Dr. Coen-
reed went with us to New Guinea, Coenraead had written him asking
him for animals some months ago, but Van Gauns assumed the enimals
were for us, and would make no effort to get anything. Had we
come to him first, things might have been different. But we hed
not heard his name until a few days ago - Coenraad had never mentioned
him to us. A curious world. One would think that coloniels, so
far from home, would be more kindly to each other.

June 24 -

We had made an appointment with enother animal dezler
to have lunch with him in Kuale Simpang. Ordinarily it should
have been an easy drive for a morning, over straight roads, but
everything that could happen to delay us,did. We lost Beirne'ts
collecting box off the back of the car and had to go back for it.
wome of the machinery feli out of the bottom of the car, and Remy
had to climb under the Buick and hammer it together again. As
a last straw we ran out of gas - fortunately near a small villege
where Remy was able to buy four liters, enough to get to Langsa
with. From the hotel at Langse we telephoned that we had been
delayed, and for the cook at the Boulevard Hotel to start nesi

goreng for us. We arrived at 1.50 - our guests had been waiting
since 12. |

They were W.T. Ruppert and his son. The old man, a
bearded, bespectacled German, has ceught meny of the big orangs
now in captivity, and has a reputation as a great hunter. He knew
no English, but his son knew a little, and we cerried on a weird
three-cornered conversation in English and our bad German, with
a acl names for animals. Trying to do any business with old Ruppert

as difficult, for he refused to put prices on his animals, saying
that they were too difficult to catch, and quoting fabulous prices
that hed been paid in Europe for animels. The only deal we
made was to pay him 20 guilders a pair for tupei - a fantastic
price, but we haven't been able to get eny so far. He is to bring
the big oreng to Siantar next month. It was captured for Fort de
Kock, but the Zoo there, with the permission of the government,
is Letting us have it.

We paid another call later in the efternoon, on Mr.
Van Greuter in Besitang. He is an old gentleman, living in
Obviously reduced circumstences, who has always been fond of
animals and had eae small collection of his own. In spite of the
poverty of his establishment he still hes a tame leopard, a dozen
monkeys, several birds, a baby musang, and two beautiful tame
otters. He let them out of their cage, end they ren about the
plece like dogs, squeaking with excitement, letting anyone pet
then, begging for food under the dining room window, end completely
winning our hearts. As we were leaving Bill said "You wouldn't
sell your otters, would you?" and Van Greuter said "No." To
which Bill could only say, "I don't blame you."

06...

We spent the night et Pangkalen Branda, stopping at a
gueer Chinese hotel. I think Europeans are not frequent guests
there, and we had difficulty in getting eny food or service at all-

June 25 -

We reached Meden in the middle of the morning, and did our
usual frantic rushing about, trying to do a month's business in an
our - the Consulete, the bank, the K. P. MM. office, Sen Hap's, etc.
Bill talked to the agent for the Silverash, and was informed the
bort could not stop at Beltimore first, as we had hoped. Going to
Halifex late in September is taking an ewful chence on weather, and
we dontt want to do it. ?

Late in the efternoon we reached camp at Clantar, end as
usual it was good to be home eagein. Here wes word weiting for us
that the Maharajah of Mysore hes shipped two gaur for us to Bombay
to be quarentined there, end picked up by us on the wey home.

The boys have gathered in some more hornbills, 2 few new
monkeys including a young Entellus that is very tame,end enother
Felis minvta. Harry, however, is not so well. His digestion is
not working properly, and he is far too thin.

All night there were strange new noises in the back yard
to keep me awake . Whenever we come back from a trip I heve to
get used to the pacing of the beer in his big metal lined cage,
to the cries of the little wild cats and the roar of the big
tiger, and to the conversation carried on by such nocturnal
enitials as the museang end the squirrels.

June 26 - 28

It hes taken three days of hard work to get caught up on
correspondence end accounts. The boys! turned over their accounts
to me, and I got a statement from the Hotel covering ell our
expenses since the end of Merch. Bill wrote dozens of letters,
snd I began to feel that the office work of this expedition is
pretty heevy.

The Brues left on the morning of the 28, headed for Palem—
bang, then Bali, Mecessar, and Java.

June 320 —-

About six in the evening a pony cart drew up to our front
door and a fresh young girlish voice asked if Dr. Mann wes here.
Out stepped Miss Barbera Lawrence, from the M.C.Z. at Harvard, just
lended in Sumatre and in search of information about the animals
of the Island. She is collecting dead specimens, birds and memmals,
end has just been in the Philippines, where she apperently tramped
all over the wilds, living in lumber calps and native villeges,
doing her own shooting and skinning. We invited her to stay to
dinner, end efter dinner we took her to the Pasar Malam, the
Nevening merket" or carnival, thet is now taking place on the
nearest vacant lot.

It wes not a particulerly good show. But it seemed to be
very populer with the natives. All the booths and gemes of chence
were sO crowded we could not get close enough to see what wes going
on. Two small theatres were producing Maley pleys, end a men and
a woman, on a platform, were doing a very slow end rether uninterest-
ing Maley dence. We did get into the "Chinese-Malay Circus", and
wetched the one troupe of acrobets, that constituted the entire
steff of artists, go slowly through some not very difficult
gymnestics. The audience in the little tent was more interesting
then the performance, with the flering lights on their upturned
faces, that showed the features of nearly every Oriental race.

Two nice old Chinese, a men and his wife, neatly dressed, sat in
the front row, and neer them were some Chinese tradesmen of the
town, plump and prosperous. Behind them were two beerded sikhs,
their swarthy feces grinning with pleasure under their snowy
turbens. Smell boys, Javenese, Malay and Batek, and mixed, howled
with merriment at the heevy antics of the clowns. We were the

only Europeans there.

July 1 -

Bill's birthday, end a nice one. The Coenreads end
Williems end Goud ell came to call. We head reistefel, brought over
nobly by Horas and his bicycle. I was able to find two presents
for Bill in the local shop - e pair of Mecassar filigree cuff links,
ena a Belinese carving of a dancing girl's heed. In the evening
we lit the Japanese lanterns, put on papeer Caps, snepped crackers,
ana toasted the Tuen Besar in chempagne. The 1.B. got into a
funk over 2 letter from the Zoo, which wes not very clear about
financiel metters, but we calmed him finally with assurances that
everything must be all right, and anyway he could cable tomorrow.

July 4 -

We had expected the Brownes to come up from Medan for a
patriotic celebration, but at the last waxraixEhEexxsE minute they
snet word they could not get eway. We hed the camp decorated with
flegs - Dutch, American, end Geographic - and had as close an
imitation of mn American dinner es we could get - fried chicken,
baked beans end ice cream. After lunch the boys put off a few
firecrackers, end as we sat on the verandeh we decided that it
wes ealmost as hot as Fourth of July at home. The dry season is
upon us, end even Siantar, which hes been very comforteble,
gets pretty warm about three in the afternoon. Nights are still
chilly however, and thet is a blessing.

We took Berbare Lawrence over to Mthew's jungle for a
morning's entomologicel collecting. She is of course still
weiting for gun and collecting permits.

Another morning Mr. Lynkemp took us over the Martobe
tea estate, which wes interesting. Ten thousand acres of tea
is quite a lot, and we saw the various processes, from picking
the young tee leaves to tasting the finished product in a cup.
The fectory is a big modern one, air conditioned in order to
dry the tea in e specified number of hours, and all so clean-
swept and spicy-smelling that a tour mekes one a regular tea
addict. The Javanese girls who work in the factory are small
and amazingly strong. They carried baskets on their back thet
I could searcely lift off the ground. Lynkamp told us they

==

(the gtrls) weighed about eighty pounds, and could carry double their
weight if necessary. In the fields a girl can pick about 480 bushes
e day. Most of the Sumatra tee goes to London, where it is blended
with Ceylon or other tee. By itself it is rather strong, and
inclined to be bitter unless brewed very carefully, but it gives
good body to lighter teas.

Camp life is full of amusement. Two little Chinese acro-
bats put on a show for us one morning, one of them being a good
sleight-of-—hend boy. The personnel of the Circus at the Pasar
Malam visited us, end Bill had e grend time talking show business
with them. Hores brought us a live centipede in a tin box, and
hed carefully put in a supply of rice for the critter to eat. We
ordered toilet paper from the grocery store and got cayenne pepper.
Barbare locks her door at night for fear of wandering pythons, and
buys Cross and Blackwell Finest Refined British Table Salt to
preserve her specimens. Miss Surbeck invited e boy friend to the
hotel in honor of Bill's birthday, and the Coenreeds feel hurt
because they are not invited to the party, which we did not hear
ebout until Mrs. C. asked us if we had a perty et the hotel.

The Monday Night Club sent us a Ringling poster, with
letters from all of them written on the back of it. Bill's birthday
cake, instead of "Happy Birthday" said "Horas" in pink icing. Such
little things as these keep us all happy, end give us something to
talk about. We have not seen an American paper since January,
and can't get much out of the oecasionel Dutch papers that come
our wey. Mrs. Mersh was here the other day, and when we asked her
what was happening at home, the only news she could think of was
thet Jean Harlow was dead.»

I discard a pair of silk stockings, and find that the house
boy is using them for dish cloths.

July 7 -

Barbera, Bill and I started off fairly early in the morning
for Brastagi, and reached there in time for lunch. We went up
especially to see Harold Coolidge, and found him flet on his back in
bed, having heart trouble as an eftermeth of blood poisoning and
fever, and very low in his mind having hed to abandon his expedition
in New Guinee.

The ride up to Brastagi wes lovely, but shortly efter lunch,
which we ate with the Davises and Mrs. Coolidge, rain began to fall,
and the afternoon was cold and dismal. Even Sabeyk wes hidden from
view, and dense clouds closed over the view of the rolling sulphur
mists that we had seen when we were here before.

We slept most of the @ternoon, hed tee with the Coolidges,
end dinner with the Davises end Mrs. Coolidge. We heerd tonight for
the first time that Amelia Eerhert wes missing on her round-the-
world flight.

July 8 -

Bill had a bad chill in the night, and felt rotten this
morning. We started home about nine o'clock, having the Davis boy

~895

Tom, ride with us, and he filled us with information concerning his
school, his riding ponies, end his favorite poetry. Deeply regretted
heaving left his volume of Burns at home, because he wanted me to reed
scotch poetry to hin.

Upon arrivel at ceup we learned thet one native brought in
five hornbills yesterday, thus completing our quota of these
astonishing birds. Some of ours ere beauties two - we have three
tremendous rhinoceros hornbills. They are caught with lime, end
come in with their feethers very sticky, but apparently none the worse
for the experience.

The Davises were to join us here for lunch, which they did.
We hed nasi goreng, and enjoyed ontroducing them to this Malry dish.
After lunch Tom vanished into the back yerd, to wetch the boys
feed and care for their charges. As we were sitting on the verandeh,
peacefully having our glasses of beer, one netive boy who speeks a
trifle of English came running, breathless, to shout "Sneke eats
boy!

Feeling almost too faint to run, we all dashed out in the
back yard. Great writhing coils of python were visible on the
ground, surrounded by an excited crowd. Davis, his face stiff with
fear, came running toward the camp.

"Who is it?" I called.
"Gaddi", he shouted back.

Just then I sew Gaddi leeve the group and walk across the
yard, holding one hand. He squatted down on a corner of the porch,
and wrapped one hend in a stray sneke bag. Bill was trying to help
Jennier get the python back in its cage. Jennier, his fece simply
purple, shouted "Somebody teke Geddi to the hospital end take him
quick.

We borrowed the Davis! car, end Bill rushed Gaddi to the
hospital. Fortunately the wounds were not severe - at, least,
Geddi still had five fingers left. The python hed chewed on him
for about five miniites before he could be made to let go, end
there were a number of nasty cuts. The doctor took four stitches
in the pelm o&¥xhisxhamad, and four on the back of his hand. Gaddi
came back, still smiling, and elthough we told him to rest up, he
was next seen going down his animal line anc feeding his charges
with one hand. Laeter Jennier saic thet the python had been shifted
from one crete to another, end just es the job was completed he
told Gaddi to slam down the lid. Before Gaddi could do it, the
python got his head out, and grabbed Gaddits hend. Then the whole
fifteen feet of snake got out on the grass, put ae couple of coils
eround Gaddi's arm, end it took the whole steff to separate them.

Bill, still feeling shaky from last night's chill, was
not improved b the excitement, or by going around the Zoo kwiee
with three different sets of visitors. At dinner time he gave up
end went to bed, end we hed to send for the doctor.

July 9 -

Bill still not feeling well, end had to stand for e long
lecture from Dr. Meyers on the harmful effects of smoking, and the
probability of his actuelly heving nicotine poiscning.

-1L00-

Bill has given our smell siemeng to Tom Davis, but it wes
quickly replaced by = lovely brown-furred, almost honey-colored
gibbon, with a dark-brown face, almost bleck, surrounded by a
halo of white fur. This is the first specimen we heve had of
this gibbon, although it is rather widely distributed throughout
oumetra.

July 20-

Bill had a good night and fells better. He hed one shock
when a messege from the hotel wes sent Over, saying that Herold
Coolidge ghad been taken to the hospitel in Meden, and thet Mrs.
C. wanted us to phone her immediately. Bill dhashed over to
tefephone, but the news was not so bed about Herold: It wes
simply a question of the altitude of Brastagi being bad for his
heart, so we is tr:ing the hospitel in Meden instead. Whet he
wented was to know if we would take home the gibbons which his
essoclete, Carpenter, hed collected in Siam.

We bought another python today, — not a remarkeble one,
except for the way it wes delivered. It came in an open, round
shallow basket, on the back of a bicycle. Its body wes neatly
coiled round and rund inside, and its heed, tied with a piece of
string to the edge of the besket, looked out over the edge. It
seemed perfectly calm end contented with this method of trensporte-
tion. One came in the other dey tied with a dozen strends of
rattan to a bemboo pole. Jennier started to untie it, to be sure
it wes eae good specimen before he bought it, and of course essumed
that the couregeous captor of the reptile would give him a hend,
Instead, the moment the snake was free, everyone ran a mile away,
leaving Jennier with a ten-foot prthon, holding the neck in his
hand so he would not be bitten, but trying to keep the python
from coiling around him. As he said, "We just rolled around the
grass together until I got it into a bag. Swen It had such bed
sores on it that I didn't buy it efter 211,?)

July 11 - Sundey

A messege ceme early this morning thet a big tiger hed been
ceught in a trap near Dolok Merangir, end would we come end get it.
The last time Jennier end Davis went after a tiger it was one thet
hed been caught in a steel trap, and its leg wes broken. So Bill
went deshing over to the Hotel to telephone. Unfortunately this
one wes also in a steel trap, so we turned it down. Someone will buy
it for the skin. Later another messege came, this time direct from
Dolok Merangir, that there was a tiger - did we want it? We still
did not. In the late efternoon, while the Ingles of Dolok Merangir
were here, came a third message. . This time it was a small tiger
caught in a grogol. Upon investigation, ea grogol seemed to be e
box trap, end es we were sure that the big tiger hed elready been
shot, we thought it better to send Jennier and Davis to look at bhis
one. Armed with e smell cage, a gunny sack, and @ couple of flesh-
lights, they started out shortly before dusk. At eight-thirty they
were beck, having driven fifty kms, and welked about five, only to
find thet they were chasing the same old tiger. Rumors spread
as fast in this country es anywhere else, only this wes an unusual
wey to vary the tele, with the tiger growing smeller insteed of
bigger every time the tele was told.

We had a nice visit with the Ingles. He is doing his best
to persuade the Silverash to go into Baltimore first, and the
Goodyear people are offering extra freight as an inducement.
Indeed, from his description of it, I can imegine tigers end pythons
being well-cusioned on the homewerd journey, with tons of rubber
to soften any bumps in the oceen.

The usuel Sunday afternoon crowd came, asking permission to
see the animals. One Dutch crowd that we unwittingly let in hed
had a few too many drinks, end had us very nervous. | One man
picked up a djeruk bali thet Barbera hed proudly bought in the
market this morning, and bowled it between the baby beers, and
finally fed it to the American bear, holding it in his hand
while he did so. Another one in the party thought it wes funny
to tease Harry while he wes heving his dinner. When I asked him
to leave the tiger alone, he said "But he didn't bite me". I
didn't care about thet —- but Harry hes hed tummy troubles egein
end I didn't want the tiger disturbed . A woman with them let
the Himelayen beer cubs lick her face - both cubs bite any of us
on no provocetion. We were gled when our merry friends got out
Of our kempong whole.

July 12 -

We were having breakfest when a big truck drew up in front
of the camp with a load of animals from Fort de Kock. Mr.
Nutzmen, the maneger, had come with them, end it was like undoing
Christmes presents to see the crates end boxes he had brought.

A female tapir,&two kinds of porcupines were the only aninals,
but he brought the most gorgeous birds, including fairy bluebirds,
silver-eared throstles, barbets and bulbuls, argus pheesents,
hornbills and frigate birds.

We hed e good day, on the whole, edding one bamboo rat,
one entellus monkey and three more hornbills to our men egerie.
A squirrel esceped, but was caught egain - our boys are pretty
good when they can outrun a squirrel!

We had plenty of callers - first Nutzmen, who had lunch
with us and spent the day; Helen Coolidge, who also lunched with
us, and had an Italian Consul in tow; DeJong, from Dolok Ilir
ceme to say good-bye, end brought me a lovely old Meningkebau
silver bracelet; elso the Coenreaeds were both here in the evening.

The Dutchman who had us so worried yesterdey by feeding the
enimals emberassed us further by sending me a bunch of flowers and
a djeruk bali to replece the one he fed to the beer.

Bill feels better, and hes been essured that he will be eble
to take giraffe out of Port Suden ana still comply with the cuaraen-
tine reguletions. Jennier cheered us ell up at dinner when the
talk turned to "Where is our Pispis collector?" by remerking
languidly "The little town they loved so much they nemed it
twice."

July 1lé -

Spent most of the day listing our animals for the customs

—~1O2-

officiesls. We have 82 memmels, 157 reptiles, end 1557 birds -
a totel of 1790, of which 790 ere not rice birds.

Another cable from Washington seys thet we will be able to
teke geur out of Bombay after e 6-weeks quarantine, inasmuch as
they heve been in the Mysore Zoo before being shipped to Bombay.

July 15 -

Pecking up after living in e plece for nearly five months
is a strenuous business, especially when the plece is as lively and
full of interest es ovr cemp. We hed e farewell luncheon with
the Coenreeds, nasi goreng for probably the lest time, end we were
ellowed in the kitchen to see how it wes prepared. We want to
make it «efter we go home, and the secret seems to be thet it is
stirred in a cest-iron, round-bottomed pan.

If the evening we drove over to Dolok Merangir for dinner
with the Ingles, who heave certeinly been nice to us out here.
They heve a charming house, with just enough touches of teek end
brass end betik to give en effect of richness without cluttering
the rooms. For dinner we had chocolsete ice cream, end as I
suppose we will never est ice cream eagein without remembering how
fond Davis end Jennier ere of it, we seid something of the sort
aloud. Whereupon Mr. Ingle insisted thet we teke some home to
them, end when we got in the cer to go home, there was e2 big
freezer, packed in ice. The boys hed gone to bed, but not to
sleep, end they seat up in bed, and simply demolished ebout a
quert end e heilf.

July 16 -

It was herd to leave camp end the boys, but we heted
seying good-bye to Siantar, and to Mr. Goud et the Hotel, too.
Good old Goud's eyes filled with teers as we drove off.

Bill hed invited Mr. Klein, the traffic manager of the
railroad, to lunch with us et the DeBoer, and when Klein told us
what the railroed wes prepared to do for us, we could hardly
believe in our good fortune. We can heve their assistance in
loading, have e speciel train et night if necessary, and the
railroed and the shipping people ere going to work together so
thet the enimais can be spared as much handling end as many delays
as possible. |

We hed an emusing conference with the Consul in the
afternoon, going over ell the formalities that have to be complied
with in shipping enimels - some of the regulations being compiled
by the Dutch government end some by our own. The question of
Consuler invoices was a staggering one; our list veries so from
day to day, the boys are busy enough feeding end cleening stock
without spending all their time on peper work, end Bill edmitted
thet he had never hed to invoice enimals before. "Whet are the
invcices for?" we esked. "For the Customs in the United Stetes."
"But," we chorused, "We don't have to pey eny mensyxyxx?ke duty.
These eninels are government property." Then followed ea
search thrcugh the rules end regulations to find out what

102

exactly is exempt from consuler invoices. "Merchendise consigned

to the UnitedStates Government" is one thing, and we decided - may
the powers thet be sustain us - thet tapirs and gibbons and dicky

birds ere "merchandise".

In the evening we met Dr Picerd, the government veterinerian
who hes to give us certificetes thet our hoofed stock is free
from rinderpest, contagicus pleuropneumonie, surrah and foot-and-
mouth disease, and that our apes, cats end. dogs ere free from
rabies.

Mr. Ven den Weerd, the shipping agent, had dinner with us.
It seems now feirly definite thet the Silverash will not go to
Baltimore for us, end the conversation during dinner was pretty
acrimonious. Just whet Bill thought of the Kerr Company for
refusing to let us charter the boat and steer it where we please
wes pretty lurid.

July 17 -

We hed e busy morning, seeing the bank, the Streits
Steemship Co., and various wholesele merchants who ere to supply
food for our stock on the homeward run. We ordered more than @
ton of bananes, one hundred dozen eggs, papaya, salt, grass,
chicken mesh, end other things.

Back in the hotel, we were handed 2 letter from Carpenter,
who hed taken offense et Bill's unwillingness to assume responsibility
for Carpenter's gibbons. I was simply foaming I was so indignent
at anyone's writing to Bill in thet tone of voice, end just then
Helen Coolidge turned up saying sweetly, "See who's here" end it
was Carpenter. It wes really fortunete, because he end Bill
sterted kidding eech other about the letter, end no ill feelings
will follow.

We hed e lerge lunch perty - Helen, Carpenter, Mrs.
Carpenter end her sister, Van den Weerd, Williems and the two of
us, and the lunch was reistafel - a darn good one, too.

After lunch we went out to the Zoo, and Bill picked
out some of the animwels he would like to have to take home with
us, adding principally two helf-grown oreng utans to our collec-
tion,

In the evening we had Berthold and Audretsch et the hotel
for dinner, and the talk wes ell of animels.

July 18 -

We had cholera inoculations this morning, on account of
the very recent epidemic in Siem. Then Epperlein's for sausage
and joghurt, then to call on Harold Coolidge, who is not as well
this morning. The poor boy is certeinly having a terrible time
trying to build up strength for the homewerd journey.

We seiled from Belawan on the Kedah at five o'clock.
Carpenter went down with us, and we stopped for a few min tes to
see his gibbons, which were aboard the City of Singapore. He has

-104-

nine of them, varying in color from bleck to blonde, all in

nice large cages with perches end bars forxkhemxka overhead. They
were parked outside the Captein's cabin, and the Captein seemed

to be fond of them elready. One littie pale golden one wes

very teme, end romped over the Captain's bed and into his tea
without being reprimanded.

The Kedeh is e fine small boat, trim end white and speedy.
The Brownes were on board, and we all hed dinner together - and
a very good dinner, too, with button quail on toast.

July 19 -

It wes pouring rain when we pulled into Penang, early in
the morning. We went eshore and welked as far es the railroed
stetion, stopping at the post office to send some letters end
cables. Penang is seid to be a beautiful island, but we saw
nothing of it, except the erceded fronts of the office buildings
near the wharf, the narrow passageways where we tried to walk
to avoid the rein, end where we had to step over old men and
women sitting on the sidewalk end spitting betel nut juice. It
wes easier to walk in the puddles of rain in the street.

The reilroed stetion is famous for having no treins init. You
buy your ticket =t the office, end then go across the street and
teke the ferry over to Prai, on the mainland.

The train left et 9.40 - a European-style train with
compartments known es "cabins" and a good dining car, with Siemese
stewerds. We sat most of the day in the diner so thet we could
see the country on both sides of us. For en hour and ea half
we went through solid rubber plantations - not 2 breek except for
an occasionsel small reilroad station. There were four hours of
Malaya -— the districts of Kedah and Perlis. After the rubber
come open pleins end rice spawahs. lLunch was our first Siemese
curry, which hes en entirely different flavor from the curry we
ere accustomed to, perheps due to the fact thet the powder is
mixed with coconut milk to make the seuce.

Padang Beser is the border station, and polite customs
officiels came aboard the trein. "Have you anything to declare?"
"No" said we, and he bowed and started away. "What is dutiable?"
Bill asked, and leerned that only fire-arms ere forbidden, and
only merchendise for sele is dutieable. The Customs man wes
followed by the Immigration officer, and Bill made him look at
our unnecessery Siemese vise. A traveler can only stay in Siem
thirty deys without putting up bond, but es we heve only e week
there was no trouble on that score. He did want to know "How
old your Missis?"

All efternoon we watched the moving picture outside our
car windows. A few plantetions of young rubber showed thet
Siam has aspirations to compete with Malaya. Most cultivation
was devoted to the inevitable rice. Buddhist priests in gold-
colored robes wandered through the rain, sometimes holding
peper umbrellas over their heads. From time to time curious
rocks jutted straight up out of the flat country, high cliffs
against the gray sky, and toward evening we came into real
mountain country, where a thick jungle spread on both sides of
us, and the train needed an extre engine to push it up the
steep slopes of the hills. Men end women on the station pletforms

-LO5=-

look much alike, as the Siamese country woman hes close-cropped
hair, and her sarong is tucked up petween her legs to give an
effect of baggy trousers.

July 20 -

While we were heving breekfast we had a glimpse of the
sea, and learned thet we were et Hua Hin, e famous seaside
resort. Later in the morning we stopped for some minutes at
Petcheburi, long enough to see the temples high on the hills
above the town, and to notice the curious bicycle-rickshews
thet furnished transportation.

The Sigmese countryside is a land of spires - the rocky
hills, the temples, even the huge termite nests have a similer-
ity to each skkexx to the other.

And always and always there are rice fields, where
men end women toil under huge hets thet look like inverted
wastepaper baskets. Egrets, marabou storks, and brilliant
fairy blue birds fly over the flooded sawahs.

It was just noon when we pulled into Bangkok. From
pictures, I had imagined the whole city to be one of spires,
and from the railroed Bangkok is a disappointment, for one
sees nothing but one-story wooden shacks, some of them thatched,
put many with the ineviteble corrugeted iron roofs. The
American cherge dtaffaires met us at the station, es did a
helf dozen newspaper photographers. How funny to have one's
picture in a Siamese paper, with that curious lenguege making
squere-cut decorations above and beneath it that are illegible
to us!

We drove to the Oriental Hotel, which hes the most
unprepossessing approach of any hotel I have ever seen. One
turns off New Road, which for the Main Street of Bangkok is
singularly unattractive, down a narrow gravel road called a
lane, and stops at the hotel door before one cen even see the
hotel, so hemmed in by luzber yerds and silver smiths 38 its
The hotel itself is large, airy, and opening onto a green lawn
that runs to the river's edge. Upstaris a wide verandeh runs
completely around the building, end the big, high-ceilinged rooms
open off this - a cool and pleesent arrangement.

Lunch et the Legation took a long time, and was very
nice. The Chepmans are most hospitable, and offered to do
anything they could for us. After we hed left them we calied
at the shop of P. Siah, a texidermist, who hes a few animals
ain his back yard, one monkey, a few birds, end quite ea number of
snekes, including two huge pythons, a king cobra, and an albino
cobre.

Mr. Minnigerode, the Consul, came in to call about
six otclock, and took us out to the Sports Club for dinks -
a big, old fashioned pbuilding, with a beautiful swimming pool
and a cool lawn where we lay beck in rattan cheis end drank gin
slings and wondered how people ever settled down to life at home
after being spoiled to death in the Hast.

-106-

Mr. Minnegerode hed dinner with us at the hotel. Later
we went to a Siamese theatre, where the high-pitched, almost
chanted dialoague was unintelligible and hence uninteresting
to us, but the costumes and music worth the evening. The
orchestra sat in a niche to one side of the stage, and consisted
of two xyllophone-like instruments, a drum and a pair of cym-
bals. Both men and women actors wore the curious high, pagoda-
like heed dresses, gilded, heevy silk costumes and plastered
with artificiel jewels. The audience was as good as the play,
surprisingly juvenile however. There were some adults, but
the vast majority were children, and some of them sat on the
stege during the performance.

After the theatre we went to How Thin Lau, a Chinese
restaurant with ea roof garden on the fourth floor, an danced
to quite good jazz music until 12.40. Bill enjoyed dancing
with some of the little Siamese and Chinese"hostesses" of the
esteblishment.

June 21 -

We called at the Legation in the morning, ani went with
Mr. Chapman to cell on Phya Jolamark, the head of the Depart-
ment of Agriculture. He was a little dubious about finding
gibbons in Bangkok, a little disappointed that our time here
is so short and he cannot teke us to the jungle. He was I
think, all prepared to lead our expedition to some grand country,
and it is too bad we cannot follow him.

He did take us to some Chinese bird stores, and in
one of them we found three gibbons, one of them a baby one.
One is gray, one yellow-white, and one black, end we bought
them all. When we came back to the hotel, end asked where we
could keep them, the hotel menager had no suggestions whatever,
so in spite of his pained protests we took them to our room.
After lunch I took the baby out of the cage to play with her.
She loves to hang around ontes neck, and is really the most
appealing little enimal I heve seen for a long time. When I
put her down on the floor or on the bed, she sticks out her
tonge, spread her long arms, and runs to me es fast as she
can. But when she has to go back in her cage, she cries like
a humen baby, and I wonder how long our neighbors in the hotel
will enjoy her.

Mr. Minnigerode took us for a drive eround the city
in the efternoon, teking us through the "original city", where
are the Royal Palece and the many government buildings, end
ending up at the Polo Club, where we met Dr. Jones, a vet, who
offered to house our gibbons for us temporarily.

July 22 -

Up at quarter to six, and efter a hasty cup of coffee
in the room we went downstairs, met Mr. Minnigerode, and went
with him for a motor boat ride through the klongs, or canals,
of Bangkok. For many years there wes no way of getting about
the city except by canal, and the whole place is a web of then.
We started down the Menam River, end turned off into a canal
that took us way out to the outskirts of the city. Here was
river life at its most industrious. Shops and houses make a

-107-

soiid wall along the weterfront. There was no curtein of privacy
between us and the Siemese and Chinese going ebout their deily
concerns - cooking, washing, eating, on the raised platforms of their
little wooden houses. Steps led down: to the river from each house,
and sampans of all sizes were moored in front of each dwelling.

Men, women and children were bathing, brushing their teeth, doing
their laundry, washing dishes, cleaning vegetables in the brown

fluid that we would be afraid to touch. Williams dipped his hand
over the dége of the boat to see how dirty the water really was, and
Minnegerode exclaimed in horror:" Heavens, man, don't do that: Think
of the cholere germs!" A little later a passing motor boat spleshed
both me and Minnegerode, so if there were cholera germs, it wes a

bit difficult to avoid them. We were glad that we hed had anti-
cholera serum before we left Medan.

One of the klongs led through the "floating market", one of
the most amazing sights in the world. The canal wes pecked solid
with little boats, so that I wondered how we would ever get through.
For a couple of miles sampans clogged the wake canel like so many
weter hyacinths, e solid mass of them, but they parted to let us
through, much as water weed does for a canoe, All sorts of fruits
and vegetables were for sale, and elthough it seemed as though
everybody was selling and nobody wes buying, there must have been
a real and organized market idea in back of it. ae ; te 0p

grig<er 9

On our way back, we stopped at the Wat Arun, ,and climbed from
the boat up the rather rickety and very steep steps to the temple
grounds. A central tower, or phra prang, rises to a2 height of
150 feet, and is surrounded by four smaller towers. Stone steps
leed up the front of the tower, end there is a walk or terrace
around it, from which one can see the niches, and the statues in
them, that decorate the four smaller towers. High above one's
head ere other stetues, some of the Moon God riding on a white
horse, others of Indre, King of the Gods, on a three-heeded
elephent. The buildings ere constructed of brick covered with
plester, and the whole thing is decorated with pieces of porcelain.
When the temple was being built - it took twenty yeers - there was
not enough money for the decoration, and the faithful were called
on to give their porcelain were for this purpose. Set into the
plaster, therefore, are thousands of plates, seucers, little bowls
of the kind used for tea, and fragments of lerger porcelain pieces.
some Of the blue china known es willow ware is there, and pieces
of rose and yellow and green. Close up, the effect is merely
curious, but from even a little distance, sotertistically was
the plecing planned, the effect is flower-like and lovely. From
considerable distance the whole plece looks as though it might have
been built of cloisonne. In the 150 years since the temple wes
built, pieces have been broken end others taken eway by curio
hunters, but this method of decogztion hes survived time end the
elements remerkably well.

Later in the day we went to the Pasteur Institute, where
serum is mace for the treatment of snake bite. Three large pits
contain king cobras, ordinary cobras, and kreits and Russells vipers.
Knderxthe Iwo attendents, dressed in white, but weering no gloves
or high boots or any sort of protection, put ea ledder down from
the wall, and climbed into the first pit, that of the king cobres.
They lifted the dome-like shelters off the ground, and the horrible
long reptiles came wiggling out. The men showed absolutely no

-LO8-

eoncern as they walked about among them. Picking up a big snake
by the beck of the neck, one man held the reptiles, while the other
put a glass slide into its mouth. Its teeth and fangs crunched
down on the glass, end a teaspoonxgeffull of thick yellow poison
trickled out. The attendant carelessly tossed the snake into

the narrow moat of water that surrounds the @ége f the pit, and
they both came out, and proceed to the next pit. Here were the
ordinary cobras - dozens of them. Many of the little shelters

were lifted, so thet bhe place wes simply swarming with the
menace of death. The Siamese stood in front of one cobra, made a
gesture towerd it, and it rose and spread its hood. Still facing it,
he bent over, grasped it six inches below the head, moved his

hand stv-adily upward, closing the hood eas he did so, until he hed
the cobra by the neck. Then it, too, was milked. It was the most
incredible, and nonchalant, handling of poisonous snakes that we
had ever seen. Only with the Russell's viper wes any perticular
caution shown. These reptiles were handled with long metal tongs.

We had lunch at the Legation, then took our gibbons over to
Dr. Jones. Later in the afternoon we hed tee with Phya Jolamark,
head of the Department of Agriculture, and there we met Bill's
old friend, Nai Aab, now Phya Salwidhen. They met for the first
time in 22 yeers, and it seemed to be 2 happy reunion. Kungying
JOlamark was very cherming and hospiteble, let us watch the Siamese
pencekes which she served us being prepered - on charcoal breziers
the batter was spread very thin, cooked to a crispness that crackled,
spread with shrimp, coconut and seasoning, and folded over - a
rick but delicious dish.

July 22 -

Phya Salwidhan took us, in the morning, to the Wat Phra Keo,
the Temple of the Emerald Buddha - an amazing fairy land of golden
pegodas, glittering temple roofs, gless-studded walls that glitter
in the light, surrounded by a wall and corridor, the inside of which
is frescoed the entire length with scenes from the Remayena - smell
figures, detailed lendscapes, lots of gold paint, an infinite
amount of work. The temple itself is a beautiful building, with
doors inlaid with mother-of-pearl on lacquered teek, and with
hundreds of little bells tinkling overheed. A greet golden
elter inside has a high reliquery in which is the famous Emerald
Buddhe, a figure 60 cms. high, cut out of a solid piece of green
jesper. It is clad in vestments of gold and jewels, and is so
high that in the dim light one cannot get e very good view of it.
Around the temple grounds are many grotesque guerdian figures, with
grimacing masks and high pointed heaed-dresses; bronze elephants;
statues of the bird God (Kineri ?), demons, end ell the complicated
mythological figures of the Buddhist tradition. Hindu end Chinese
figures have also been brought in, and carved stone statues of
indubitable antiauity mingle with the more modern representations
of the gods. One of the sights of the Wet Phra Keo is the model
of Angkor Wat, a reminder of the beautiful ruins thet Siem lost
to the French.

Phye Salwidhen then took us to the stables where the royal
white elephants were kept. He wemmed us in edvance thet they were
white in name rather than in eppeerance. One of them hed a blotched
end pinkish eppesrence; one very tell one hed e pink trunk end
pink mottlings on his ears. We fed them both suger cane, and

-109-

their attendents maie them bow their thanks to us.

We drove out to Phye'ts house, and met his wife. Then we all went
down town to the Chinese restaurent How Thin Leo, where we hed shark's
fin soup, some delicious fish, end a dish of Siamese curry prepered by
Mademe S&S. in her own house. She also brought a big bowl of peeled
ramubutens. This fruit hes a pleesant, slightly acidic flavor, but is
so difficult to eet that I head never cered much Br it. When it is
peeled and seeded - a difficult process and one recuiring 2 special
kind of knife, sherp end nerrow - one can reelly get enough to taste
the juicy, delicate meet, and it is very good indeed.

Mr. Minnigerode hed invited us to dinner, and we found ourselves
again that same evening et How Thin Lao's. We had ea Chinese dinner,
with duck skin, pounded prawns, mushrooms, end other delicacies. After
dinner we went upsteirs en! denced until twelve-thirty, Bill getting
e great kick out of dancing with the little Siamese end Chinese girls
egein.

July 24 -

It rained steadily ell morning, end we were glad of en excuse
to sleep late, and rest up efter all our activities. Just before lunch
we walked down to the neerby market, admiring the great variety of
fruit end green things tnat Siem raises and ests. Near the merket
wes a Chinese medicine shop, and among the remedies on displey were
dried sea horses, and tiny seed peerls.

After lunch we went with Phya &. to see Wat Po, one of the
oldest and most beautiful temples here. Peace end serenity seemed
to heng in the golden heze of lete efternoon. Golden-robed bonzes
wendered about, presumably meditating. A couple of men were spreading
corn on the stone walks to dry, end sweeping it up agein with bamboo
brooms. kxkkkxke Groups of smell stetues stood in a veriteble rock
garden, which wes sheltered by e green tree. Once inside the temple
gate we found ourselves in a corridor where there were meny statues of
Buddha, gilded, all alike, meking a row long enough to have reel per-
spective, grading the statues from the highest one near us to the one
thet seemed smell because it was so far eway. The big temple here
conteins the famous reclining Buddhe, 150 feet long, rather shepeless,
with most of the gilt worn off, impressive only for its size. One
golden curl which had fellen off stood on ae nearby table, and it alone
wes es big as a man's head. In another temple wes e rether lovely
gilded bronze statue of Buddhe, high on e carved elter, end faced by
eight of his disciples. Beforexmim At the foot of the alter were
two big beeswax spheres, elaborately molded end colored a rather giddy
pink - e gift from the King to the temple of wax to be used in the
temple cendles throughout the forthcoming yeer. The outside of the
temple has curbed and pointed gebles which ere covered with bronze
colored gless, shimmering in the sunlight like goid and most effective.
The temple gates are guerded by many of the same figures we have seen
in the other Wats, end also by 2 curious tall stone figure of a
Chinese aduirel, in top hat, buttoned coet, flowing tie, floppy
trousers and high boots. |

This is the beginning of the Buddhist Lent, end the temples are
all full of worshippers, who bring with them flowers end gifts of
candles and spheres of wax. The air is heavy with the odor of the
flowers and of the fragrant beeswex.

-110-

In the evening we went with the Selwidhens to Saranrom Park,
where a Buddhist fair was being held. In smell booths various
articles were for sale, and refreshments were being cooked over
rosy braziers. In a small theatre e troop of dancers were performing,
and although the plece was pecked to the doors and we could only
get glimpses of the dance by standing on tiptoe and looking in thr. ugh
the windows, the effect of the dancers, wearing mesks, the conventional
heed-dresses, and sperkling gem-studded silk costumes, was very
beautiful, and I would heave enjoyed a closer and more adequate view
of the posturing thet constitutes a Siamese dance. We were more
fortumete in heering a Siemese orchestra, for we were invited right
into their pavilion, sested beside the drums, end given a most
interesting concert. Here again we heard the xyyllophone-like
instrument, end also gongs, fifteen or twenty of them, arranged in
e semi-circle, mounted on e wooden base, constituting e single
instrument played by one man. Two xyllcphones, two sets of gongs,
one flute, and four drums, made up the orchestra. They were
eecompenied by e chorus of five yong girls, chanting the story of
Buddha's life. It was interesting to see, even if the music meant
little to Occidental-trained ears.

July 25 -

Up early, and out to the Polo Club at eight o'clock, to
watch the jumping competition between the Bangkok Polo Club and
the Siamese cavalry officers. They hed beeutiful, spirited horses,
but the track wes slippery end treecherous. Time end agein the
horses refused the jumps; there were many spills, one of them a
bad one when a Siamese broke his shoulder. The riding over, we
hed en eleborate breekfast, and then went on to the Sports Club
for a swim. The pool here is ea beauty, end the”plece is—e-sociel
mneetime for Bangkok society on Sunday mornings. We met the
Cullings, and others whom we knew, and sipped cold drinks and ate
curry puffs between swims.

In the afternoon we went with the Selwidhens to the National
Museum, where in a fine old palace are housed the artistic and
historic treasures of Siam. There were meny cases Of Buddhas of
all eges end of ell meteriels - gold, bronze, stone, plaster, etc.
A carved ivory howdeh that once belonged to the Royal Femily took
my eye, as did the displey of richly colored, handwoven silks.
Here wes a case of old Siamese money, end I wes surprised to learn
thet the type thet is now used only by souvenir hunters for buttns
once existed in pieces as big es your fist and worth eighty ticals.
A print of Buddha's foot, in bronze, with each toe as big as én
ordinery men's foot is one of the exhibits, as is also a model of
the tooth, e replica of the original in Kandy. Ihe tooth itself
is something over en inch in length. Meny bells, gongs and drums
tempted Bill to test them for tone, but when he struck one of them
Phya looked stertled, and explained that the accompenying Silemese
text seid thet if you wented a child to strike this bell. Whereupon
Bill struck it five times more. Old menuscripts are housed in
lovely cases of inleid wood. There are beautiful exhibits of
armor and of ceramics - in fect all the arts, industries, and customs
of ancient Siam are here shown et their best.

A ride thr ugh “silver street", where dozens of open- fronted
shops displey a dezzling amount of silver work, finished the afternoon.
We bought a jade ring and a pair of cuff links, and called it a day.

All the Americans in Bangkok were invited to the house-warming
party of the Scholtzes, and we were taken along. We left about
nine, and brought Minnegerode back to the Hotel to dinner with us.

July 26 -

We buzzed around town trying to find out some information
about trains end boats, in order to get away from Bangkok, much es
we like it. Bill wes taken to call on the Minister of Foreign
Affeirs, end we both went down to the Treffic Menager of the
Siam Reilways, who unfortunetely did not speak Fnglish. Having
two interpreters rather bungled things up, and when Bill brought
up the question of getting retes, one of them seid vaguely "I think
we must cherge you double."

We hed lunch at Minnegerode's place, end dinner at the
Legation - the .nly formal dinner we have been to since leaving
Singepore last March. Had to brush hunks of mildew off our
evening clothes.

July 27 -

In the afternoon we saw the Royal Pelace, by special permit,
which stipuleted thet men must wear neckties end coats, and ladies
must weer stockings. Thexbuxitingxbthakxisxeetuxkiyxbeingxikived
suxisxnockxopenxtoxthexpubkiexatxthexnonenkyxbukxkhexthronexnaity
wikhxiksxgorgeous»royxk The Royal Pelace itself, an impressive
structure in Italien Renaissance style with a Siamese roof, is
temporerily closed. We saw, however, the throne hell, which is
a building by itself. The throne is of mother-of-pearl inlay,
as are the steps leading to it. Over it is the white, nine-
tiered umbrelle. SYmexw Behind the throne is @ golden shrine
for the image of Buddha, but it was empty when we were there.

The walls of the great room look es though they were covered with
wall-paper, but on close inspection it develops that they are
painted with small water color scenes on plaster, in a reguler
pll-over pettern. On our way to the audience hall we pessed
a slightly reised platform, end were told thet this wes the
elephant mounting block. The eudience hell was tremendous,

much mother-of-peerl inlay, fine painting on the wells, curtains
heavy with gold leaf, end at the end, another shrine and another
throne.

Later in the efternoon we went to Bangkok Christian College
for tea, end met meny American missionaries, end many Siemese
Christians. In the evening we went to the Cullings' for
dinner.

July 28 -

We learned that the S. S. Malini, of the Siam Steam
Navigation Line, would seil this afternoon et three, so we hed a
busy morning pecking, end getting our specimens together. Five
nice gibbons arrived this morning by train from Chieng Mai, and
the Pasteur Institue is giving us two king cobres, and five each
of Siamese cobres, kraits, and Russell's vipers. All our
belongings had to be teken out by launch to the steamer, which
was tied up in the Menam. We found the ship a nice little one,
1200 tons, with Danish officers, Chinese boys, and a Siamese

crew. Our menggerie was stowed on the promenade deck, and we made
efforts to feed and water the stock before dark.

July 22 - At See

We were up early, and cleened cages and fed gibbons. Most of
the cages are totally unsuited to the animals they contein, and we
asked if the ship's carpenter had any spare time on his hends in
which to do a bit of remodeling. There is no ship's carpenter,
but one of the sailors is said to be handy with tools, and will
help us out tomorrow. |

an

All morning we were anchored off Koh si Chang, she island
where we took on a load of rice. We went ashore for an hour or
sO, bought some fresh vegetables for our beasts, and found e man
who had twelve white squirrels to sell.

July 20 - At Sea

We were tossed about e good deal all night, end woke to
find rain and waves sweeping across the decks. Our gibbons
were pretty well protected by tarpaulin, but we worried a good
deal about their catching cold. Iwo of them had colds to start with,
and this should not help matters any. I held Stengah, the baby,
on my lap most of the afternoon - in fact until Stengeh got
seasick, when she wes firmly put back in her cage, and promptly
began eating bananas.

Toward evening the westher moderated, and animal keeping
wes a little simpler. The carpenter has fixed the cages so that
it is possible to feed and clean without letting ell the inmetes
loose. |

July 31 - At Sea

Iwo casualties: the white squirrels gnawed through their
wooden cage, and two escaped. One was caught again, but one
jumped overboard. Also a Russell's viper died. I hated to
see Bill open the big box that wes full of these creatures, but
none of them moved, and he was able to remove the corpse with
no trouble at all, end throw it overboard, where it floated,
belly-up, looking more poisonous than ever,

We went ashore at Tumpet, in Kelantan, one of the Unfedereted
Malay States. . We found that Kelentan wes famous for batik work,
and bought four more sarongs. Also some feeding pens, and some
more fruit for our pets. The little town was decorated with
flegs end lanterns, and patriotic slogens in honor of the recent
birthday of the Sultan. A great deal of the morning wes spent
at the Club, where we were taken with true British hospitality,
end teated to gin tonics and beers. News reached the ceptain
that there was a cargo waiting for us e few miles back up the coast,
so we turned around end went back to Siam to get it. This little
jaunt from Bangkok to Singapore, which looks so short on the map,
is going to take longer than en Atlentic crossing on e big boat.

August l- ee
, -nemed Juul
Yesterday we sent e cable to e Danish plenter/at Trengenu
asking if there were eny enimals in the vicinity of his plentetion.
Today we anchored off shore, blew our whistle, and out‘came e launch
in which rode an enormous Dane. He climbed up the ship'ts ladder
with ea wicker besket under his arm, end in the besket wes eae pea-
cock. With meny epologies he explained that the cable hed reached
him just as our ship rounded the bend, and he hed hec no time to
meke eny inquiries. However, he did have a peacock in his -back-
yard which he wes heppy to present to the Geographic Expedition.
The Melini runs as casually as e private yecht. The Captain and
the other officers were so heppy to see Mr. Juul egain, that long
efter his 150 paumi bags of rice were unloaded, and the ship
could have got under way egain, they all sat in the little dining
saloon, drinking Swedish punch (in the morning), end swepping
yarns.

a

August & -

In spite of deleys, we got into Singapore aimost on
schedule. It wes lunch time when we seiled into the herbor, end
I wetched esgerly for e glimpse of the Silverash, the ship that is
to take us home. One Silver boet wes anchored e little distance
awey from us. She wes between two enormous freighters, and looked
so little thet I began to have decided qualms about crossing the
Atlentic in e ship of that size. On closer exeminetion she turned
out to be the Silverwillow, and I could still hope that our ship
was to be e sizeable one.

Coming ashore, we learned to our dismey that this is a
Benk Holidey - the first Monday in August - end all offices were
closed. We sent ea messege back to the Malini asking them to
feed end weter our stock, and take care of it over night.
Registering at the hotel, we were delighted to find that Dr.
Schultz of Johns Hopkins, who hes been in Borneo with the Coolidge
crowd, had also just arrived, end we had quite a reunion.

Late in the efternoon we went down to the Silverash,
which was tied up at the Empire Dock. It seemed an enormous
freighter when one stood on the deck, and the leugh was on me
when we lesrned thet it wes a little smaller then the Silverwillow.
Captein Rowe has had e lot of teasing about his animal shipment,
and we had to do e lot of reassuring, saying that the animals
would be no trouble et all - to anybody except us.

August 46 -

We called first on the Consul, and picked up a bunch of
meil. Then over to Harrisons end Berker, the agents for the Kerr
Line. The first thing to do was to get our gibbons off the Malini
before she sailed, and the egents promised to take cere of thet.
After celling on various government depertments in regard to
permits, we dropped in et the office of DeSouza, end found that
Floyd Smith of Shanghai hed been in there looking for us. He was
passing through Singepore on the Andre LeBon, on his way to
Burope, and we promptly got in touch with him end asked him to

~114-

lunch with us. Poor Floyd started out from Shenghei with a

gient pande, end it died at see. If anything could be more heart-
breaking then thet I can't think of it. He hes on boerd at
present 48 rare pheasants, end three Chinese alligators. Bill
begged one of the alligators from him, and we ail went down to the
Andre LeBon, e big Messageries Maritime boat, took off one alliga-
tor, end cerried it by taxi to the Silverash. This is the way
animal collections are built up!

We went out to the DeSouzats in the evening. He is busy
working with e movie outfit, e picture that seems to be called
"Boole" and is leid in Singapore. Des. is supplying the animals,
and hes little thet he wents to sell to envone else. He has taken
good care of our blue sheep, end kept them alive in spite of the
trying Singapore climate. The weather is very bad, just now.
There has been no rain for a week, end deys ere hot and nights
stifling. We sleep under an electric fan - elweys a bed idea,
end I heve caught e cold. :

Capt. Rowe, end the Captain of the Silverwillow were dining
at the hotel, and we hed them join us.

August 4-

We started out in the morning to visit some of the Chinese
bird shops, but inasmuch es a story appeared in today!s paper
about "three big animal men" (Bill, Smith and Schultz) being in
town, prices were silly. One man had a bear cub which he
valued at $5 last time we were in town, but this morning he
asks 25 for it. A baby tiger, just about Harry's size, was
priced at $286. The Chinese who owned the latter took us out to
The New World, where he hes a small enimel show, end showed us
e huge Himaleyen beer, a rickety leoperd, a smell wild cet, end
a few other things, none of which we bought. As we left him at
his store egain, I noticed = sign over the door which said that
he wes also the egent for “leprosy pills." 7

We went out to Basapa'ts Zoo in the efternoon, and arranged
for quite e number of things, including e young Borneo oreng utean.

In the evening we hed dinner with the McEnellys, end hed
a very pleasent evening. Mr. McE, hed two telegrams for us, one
giving us permit for our extra birds, anc the other giving us
the cubic contents of our Siantar shipment - 2500 feet. We hed
been worrying for fear it might be much more than that.

August 5 -

We spent the morning with Basepe at the hotel, and then
went out to Johore to have lunch with the Tungku Makote. It was
nice to see our mountain lions end beer end reccoons looking well
end plump. The Tungku hed our shipping ceges for us, and two
bleck penthers and a no-wattied cessowery to put in them. We
watched his men shifting the penthers from their 2400 cages to the
shipping crates, and it was cuite an exciting performance, with
much shouting in Maley before the crates were finally hoisted to
a big red and gold truck and driven down to the ship.

The Tungku is a greet Zoo enthusiast, end he and Bill

—-115-

talked animals excitedly all through lunch.

In the evening we had dinner with Mr. Chesen of the Reffles
Museum. Dr. Schultz wes also there, end it wes a heppy evening.

August 6 -

While Bill ran around from agent to ship to government vet
to Colonial Secretary, I used the morning to do e bit of shopping,
and got some lovely things from Teng, the Chinese desler. A
mandarin coet for Malcolm Davis! wife thet is a beauty, and some
hightgowns for me in exquisite hend-embroidery. I lunched at the
hotel with Williams, Schultz, end Audrey Sellers, and then we
went down to the Silveresh and joined Bill there. All our animels
were put eboerd this morning, end we were supposed to sail at
four o'clock. However, there wes some difficulty ebout en oil
tank, and it was eleven before we finelly left. The ship is
really veru comfortable. We have our own deck, e big bedroon,
end a sitting room. Dinner was simple, but well cooked. I
think I shall like the Silverash.

August 7 =

We were up early, end fed some of our stock before breekfest.
Poor littie Stengah has a cold now, but inasmuch as the other two
gibbons who were so sick seem to be getting better I hope the will
pull through too. She is such e friendly beby, and loves to hang
on anybody's neck. Williams has nicknamed her "sticking plester."

After breekfast we started to write some letters, when a
sailor came with the news that one of our lizards was out. We
have several small lizards from Siam in one big cage, and Bill
sterted off with a butterfly net to capture the stray. When he

ame back, an hour or so later, he said it was one of the Komodo
dregons that had broken out of its box, and he hed been unable to
catpure it. It is fortunately down in the hold, end the only
other enimals there are the other Komodo dragon end a smell
collection of birds from the Batevie Zoo. Bill moved the birds
up on deck, end left the lizard loose, preferring to wait until
he hes expert help, which will be tomorrow. It gives one a aueer
feeling to know that one of those monsters is walking about
below decks, even if he is well shut in.

A sudden scuall shortly before noon sent everybody
running with tarpeulin to cover the animals. Rain blew in from
all directions at once. It is herd to take cere of animals on
board properly, and the first few days are alweys a mess. We
ordered a lot of food in Singapore, but it is et the moment inacessi-
ble in the storage room, and we ourselves forego our morning
fruit in order to give it to the gibbons. Cleaning ceges without
‘proper instruments, and trying to give the animels water out of 3
bucket is elso difficult. It will be good to heve the boys aboard
to-morrow and have all our own Zoo equipment.

We stopped at Port Swettenham late in the afternoon, and
Bill asked the agent to get us some banenas, chickens and pigeons,
which he did. The birds ere food for our big cats. The two big
panthers from the Tungku. the clouded leopard from Besape, and our
little Siamese wild cat ell need meat.

August 8 -

We were supposed to reach Belawan at daylight, but we are being
late ell along the line on account of the delay in seiling from Singa-
pore, and it was actually noon when we errived. Captain Rowe
ennounced at about ten o'clock that he could see Sumatre on the
horizon, but couldn't find Belawan. I would not edvise a nervous
passenger to sail with him. He said, leaving Singapore, that on
account of the tide he would have to teke an“Eccustomed way out of
the place, and hoped he wouldn't get lost. He xx lost one ship -
4t foundered after a collision in New York Harbor, end hed another
one burn up in the Philippines. I suppose these things happen to
all captains in time, but most of them don't tell the passengers
about them.

However, he did find Belewan, ena we found Devis, Jennier
end Gaddi on the dock, where they had been since nine o'clock in the
blistering sun. All our animels were on freight cars drewn up right
alongside the ship. The railroad people (courtesy Mx.Beron Van
Styrum) had given us a special night train, charging us only for the
use of the engine (about thirty dollers), and had made arrangements
beforehand with the customs people so thet there wes no checking over
of specimens, and no delay in loading. About two the menagerie
started to come aboard, and it took all afternoon, end until about
eight thet night. Bill, Devis end Jennier shouted themselves
hoarse, but nothing could meke those coolies reelize that they were
handling livestock, and not eretes of rubber or bags of rice. All
the ceges were £xkx swung On poard in big nets, and lowered into
the No. 6 hatch. A few of the big crates were left on deck, those
containing tigers, tapirs, bears, sheep, and so forth. The gibbons
ere on the boat deck, and we are trying to protect*#s much as possible
from sea breeze and at the same time give them enough fresh air and
sunshine to keep them healthy. ,

We were supposed to seil this evening, but agein there is
delay in loading pelm oil, and we stey in Belewan over night. The
American Consul (Mr. Walker is ecting in cherge), Berthold of the
Medan Zoo, and Vanden Weerd, the egent of the Kerr Line, ell spent
some time on board with us. The Coenraeds were both here, end had
lunch on the ship. Fx-Congressman Cestellow, who came all the way
out here to be with us, end arrived after Bill and I hed left Sumetra,
also turned up. He spent four deys with the poys in Sianter end
got a great kick out of .it.

August 9 -

3 We left Belewan in the morning, end all day the boys worked
Like mad to get their stock in some sort of order. Ceges had been
stecked in such a way thet it was impossible to get at some of the
animals at all. Casualties due to the delay on the dock, and to the
rough handling by the stevedores, were sickening. One clouded ©
leopard, a museng, two prehensile-—tailed procupines, and five hundred
birds are dead. |

We got into Peneng in the evening. Jennier and Davis,
weary as they were, went ashore ebout ten ofclock and steyed for an
houre Bill and I went early to bed.

August 10 -

_ Bill and I went ashore with ke our old horse-trainer friend,
Connie O'Neal, end he took us to various merkets and tinsmiths where
we got the food end feeding pans that we wented for our enimals.

A erate of mam rambutens, a couple of pecks of greens, @ seck of
flour, a big bag of cerrots, and a tin of dried worms were emong

the dey's supplies. Gibbons are wild about rembutens, and even tose
thet ere extremely fussy about their food end seem to heve no
appetite at all, will crem as many of these fruits into their mouths
as possible. T eannot see how there cen be much nourishment in
them, but it is pleasant to see an animel enjoy his food. The fet,
silly oreng we got from Basapa hes elso an encoureging appetite, end
sits, Buddha-like, all day, placidly stuffing himself with any ako
fruit or vegeteble et all.

The little Siamese wild cat escaped, end wes located under a
lizerd cage. Jennier caught it again in a burlap beg.

We took Herry up on the bot deck and cheined him to a post
but he did not like it wkk at all. Poor old Harry hes been so used
to being the boss of the camp, and fxr has pleyed outdoors all his
life, thet he complains bitterly about being in e cage, yet is
frightened by all the strenge noises end smells of the ship when
we teke him out.

Stengeh still hes a cold, and is so droopy eat different times
of the dey that we think we are going to lose her, but then she
peps up and seems quite bright egein. All she wants is a nurse who
hes nothing to do but hold her all day long - then she is quite
happy.

We were a little late in sailing from Penang, because the
ceaptein was doing a little side work, trying to see whether or not
he could get a job as pilot in Penang, if he gave up the sea-captein
business. I have never known es casual a soul as he is.

August ll -

We were up early, and hed the gibbons, orang, squirrels, wild
cat, and some of the birds fed before breakfast. We spent all
morning passing the northern coest of Sumatra, which is wild and
mounteinous and besutiful. Clouds drifted across the blue mountain
sides, and veiled some of the peeks, as we said our farewells to
Sumatra. After ell, in spite of a lot of disappointments and herd
work, we did have a good time there, and it is e gorgeous country.

A stiff breeze is blowing, and the Captain thinks we may be
getting into the southwest monsoon already, end that will make
things a little difficult aboard. We went ell our cages safely
guyed and’ anchored before we get any heavy seas.

As the afternoon wore on, the nearness of the Southwest Monsoon
became increasingly evident. A stiff wind, sudden gusts of rain,
and a wellowing sea, mede animal keeping anything but a pleesure.
Three times we got completely soeked to the skin ourselves, because
we dashed up to the boat deck to cover up gibbons when we saw a
eloud on the horizon, end the rein ceme whitening the sea, and
blowing horizontelly on us before we could get back to our own
querters. The big Mewas kude from Atjeh sits and skakes his cage
alarmingly, and it has all been reinforced with steel wire end
guyed to stanchions so that he eannot shake it complete.y to
pieces. He is the most dangerous enimel aboerd, not excepting the
Sumatran tiger, and certainly the most fearsome to look at.

Davis end Jennier are discoureged almost to the point of teers.
Devis confessed at dinner time thet there was one bird cage he had
not yet been able to reach — the roulrouls heve now been three dzys
without food or water. The Ceptain promptly ordered two seilors to
go below with Davis and sort out cages so that this last lot could
be reached, end saved - if indeed they were still alive. Only two
of the twenty were dead. As Davis said "Boy, they sure can teke it."

August 12 -

The dey is still a little stormy, but not as bed es yesterday,
The Ceptain turned all hands out to help the boys place their ceges
where they went them, and meke of Nu mber Six hetch something approach-
ing a tidy Zoo. With help, it was done, and Jennier end Devis are
cheerier. The female blue sheep, one of our rarest animals, is
not feeling so well, end everyone is hoping thet she is merely
seasick, and not suffering from an overdose of sun the day we were
in port. The blue sheep are mountein enimals, and the noonday sun
is hard for them.

Gaddi is at work agein. The first day we were out I wetched
him, and he spent the whole day running his legs off up and down the
deck, always with a couple of buckets of sweet potetoes, or water,
trying to get all the stock fed and wetered before the day wes over.
He never had e moment to draw breeth, and when I asked hin, "Well,
Geddi, wheat do you think of life at sea?" he answered, "It is very
good." Yesterdey he was seasick. After many valiant efforts at
conquering the qualms, he finally hed to give up. He is such a
plucky little soul that it must have been hard for him to admit
defeat. Todey he is smiling end busy once more.

The Ceptein showed us his movies in the evening, pictures he
hes teken on his round-the-world trips, and he had some very good

shots, especially of porpoise, albatross, and the Medan Zoo.
August 1é -

I have been promoted. I fed the gibbons before breekfest,
and then spent two hours down in the hetch cutting up epples end
banenes for the birds end ani els. Benenes are required cut in
three different weys, end a bucket of eech kind, so it was quite e
job. I hed Stengeh ovt for e while, and gave the poor mite a
bath, which she seemed to like. The Captain's dog tried to make
friendswith her, but the tiny bunch of fur did her best to bite him.

Apgust 14 -

The old Southwest Monsoon, that hes been held out as a sort
of bogey to us, hes not been so bad. Sudden gusts of wind and rein
come up from time to time, end we ell scurry to see if our perticu-
lar animal line is well covered with tarp. But the see has been
pleesant, and no rough weether since the Second dey out. eh oa
just es well; how I would survive slicing benenas end apples down
in the smelly, noisy hatch, where the pigs squeel, the cockatoos
shriek, the siamangs howl, and all the little birds twitter, I
don't know unless the floor under me wes fairly steady.

We hed a swift current — three knots en hour - egainst us
ell the way along the coest of Ceylon, and instead of getting into
Colombo in mid-efternoon, it was seven et night when we came into
the harbor, and nearly nine before we got ashore. The harbor is
pretty at night, with the big hotels lighted up, a light house
blinking just outside of town, end a big sign gmim that spells
over end over egain "Ceylon: For Good Tea". The herbor was full
of ships, and they added their lights to the general festive
effect. 7

Mr. Buell, the Americen Consul, ceme down to the ship to
meet us, and also Dr. Hill of the Medical School. When we finelly
got ashore we went to the Hotel to pick up Mrs. Hill and their small
deughter Dorothy, and then went eround to see Mrs. John Hagenbeck,
to find out if she had eny animals for sele. All she had, that we
could use, was one squirrel, so we asked her to deliver it aboerd
in the morning.

Then we went out to the Hill's house, and saw his private
collection of birds and animals, which included some rere things.
Here were flying squirrels and flying phelengers, in cages thet
actuelly gave them room to fly; two kinds of purple-feced manzkzsy
monkeys; e pengolin busily eeting mashed banan 2 end milk; s.iender
loris, with its big eyes and queer thin legs; slow loris; red
lengurs (one of them stole a big black wooden button off my
dress); and many birds, including a pair of Queen of Bavaria parrots.

August 15 -

The Hills ceme on bosrd eerly to see our menegerie.
He brought us one slender loris in e cage, end I do hope it lives
till we get home; it is a weird little beast. Our rock squirrel wes
elso delivered, end we sailed at nine o'clock. All along the
lovely, mountainous, hezy-blue coast we busily peeled banenas, seeing
nothing of the land, and when we came up on deck again we were well
out of sight of land, end rolling along across the Indien Oceen.

A stiff breeze blew up in the evening, end we were afraid
of another storm, but the Silverash rides steadily, being heavily
loaded, and 211 went well through the night.

August 17 —-

There is plenty to worry about, even though the weather
steys fine. The big Mewas kude from Atjeh refuses to’eat, having
been fed exclusively on durian before being turned over to us, and
durien being absent from the bill of fare we carry for our monks.

-120-

Good-netured as Captain Rowe is, I think he would drew the line

at a lerge consignment of durian aboard - he compleins already that
the animal ceges smell a bit strong. Three of the Siamese gibbons
have colds and no appetite at all. We tempt them with boiled sweet
potatoes, onions, oranges, apples, rice, bread end honey, milk

and oatmeal, greens, and bananas. One old lady, known as Grendma, °
eats like e pig, but most of the others are choosy, and Stengeh,

Mr. Black, end Skinny, won't est anything. I can't see what they
live on.

The most serious loss to dete is that our of male serow.
That really is e blow. These goat entelopes have never been
seen elive in the States, and we Kaxexa hed a fine pair from Fort
de Kock thet we were hoping to get sefely beck to the Zoo,

The young oreng from Borneo is sneezing.

A tiny finch esceped from its cage this mo ning while Davis
was cleaning, and flew into the big orang's cege. The greet villain
bent over, sniffed et the tiny bird, but didn't touch it, whereupon
it flew out, wes captured by Davis, end put safely back into its
cage, probebly never reelizing whet a narrow escape it had head.

Herry is still unreconciled to his cage, and is getting
himself a bad set of menegerie marks. It is a problem whet to do
with him, for he is frightened when he is out on deck, and is
rubbing great sores on his nose when he is in the cage.

August 18 - 28 Bombey

I wonder if enyone ever ceme to Bombey for four deys and
saw as little of it es we did. We hurried from the Consulate
to the Zoo to the bank to the ship end back egein. Every moment
we spent ashore we were worrying about our cherges on board, end
yet there wes e lot of business to ettend to in town.

Our first call was of course on the Consul, where we
picked up some mail. Then out to the Zoo, where we met the Super—
intendent of Parks, Mr. Ahmedi, the head of the Zoo, and the chief
veterinary officer. Our two geur, sent here by the Mysore Zoologi-
cel Gerdens some six weeks ago, are fine young enimals, tame, cow-—
eyed, end sleek. Not very imposing yet - they just look like
unusually fine celves - but if they live they will be hendsome
bison.

The Zoo is in Victorie Gardens, end is more a botenicel
perden then a zoologicel one. They have some fine specimens,
however, including e group of sloth bears, @ riding cemel, huge
Bengel tigers (one of them tewe), e group of lengur monkeys,

a mother leoperd with two cubs.

We erranged to teke the cubs, end Ahmedi secured a full-
grown mele for us in addition —- a tall, light colored Persien
leopard. He elso gave us the langurs, but we were uneble to
get a permit to take them out. There is e government lew thet
monkeys mey not be shipped during the Southwest Monsoon.

We spent one morning in the merket, whichis one of the
finest I have ever seen. The fruit stalls hed grapes from Cuettza,
peers from Kashmir, melons from Afghenisten. The flower stalls
were fregrant and colorful. There wes e bird merket, but it
ran mostly to doves end budgerigers, elthough we picked up a
dozen brown end yellow weevers and ten ring-necked perrots.

We found e couple of private collectors, one of them
St. John Cowper, who is an enthusiastic aviculturist. He hed

sun birds end roulrouls, jays, end many American end South American
species, some of which he was reising.

A Persee took us out to see his collection, which included
2 number of amazingly tame enimels. Birds end squirrels perched
on his fingers es he petted them. He wented to sell us © y ung
tiger, but Bill wes inclined to believe the animal hed a touch
of rickets, .end wes afreid to buy it.

Bombey is en amezing city - huge buildings in Mid-Victorian
style, with e swerming, colorful population. When we were in
Sumetre I had thought of meking e study of netive head-dresses.
Anyone who took up thet hobby here would heve e lifetime job.
Robes end heeddresses are of ell colors of the reinbow, and ell
different, from the spotted oilcloth hats of the Parsees to the
little yellow tems of the police.

Treffic is dense, and I should think it would be nerve-
racking to drive in. In edditions to the eutomobiles, bicycles,
end pedestriens (who never under eny circumstences look where
they are going) there are plenty of gherries - old-fashioned
vietories pulled by rather ancient horses.

We spent two evenings et Greene's Hotel, where there is
dencing with meels. One evening we went with the mate and two
of the engineers; the second evening with the captein end a
Miss Edna Flower. The music wes good, end we enjoyed dancing.
We had one lunch in the eir-conditioned dining room of the Tej
Mehel Hotel, a big structure fronting the bay, with domes and
arcades thet meke it look like en Indien pelece. I believe it
wes built by a Meherajeh es e personal hobby. Anywey, we had
good curry and rice.

August el -

When we woke in the morning, we were just pulling out of
the herbor. Bill end I went beck to our hanene-peeling routine
promptly efter breekfest. Some of our ceges heve been shifted
into Number 5 hatch, which gives us more room. Ali the gibbons,
sismengs, end Javenese lengurs are in @ line there, and I now
heve sixteen monks insteed of nine to care for.

We are heving difficulties with the Chinese crew, who heve
shown e disposition ell elong to ennoy some of our more nervous
animels. Now things ere beginning to disappeer - a giant
salamender, which could not possibly have got out of its box by
itself, is gone, end knowing how fond the Chinese are of esting
them, we heve our suspicions. eddi preserved the skull and
skin of the serow that died, but while the skull was drying on

Street scenes in Bombay include e pious Brahmin leading a secred
cow, end holding e bunch of green gresse If you buy the grass
to feed the cow, you acquire merit.

People sleep wherever end whenever they pleese. At no hour of the
day cen you walk along the street and not heve to step over
prostrete netives. |

Even the mongoose end the cobra feud is still cerried on,

slthough we did not sce seny very spirited version of it. One
night on texrdxskxp on the wherf alongside the Silverash

2 native brought a cobra out of a besket, and a mongoose out

of a sack, end tried to get them interested in each other.

The fight never came off, although we were told later thet

the owner of the animals hed to be assured of a feir-sized coliec-
tion before he would risk a fight to the death.. In other words,
if the audience would put up the price of a new cobra - or
mongoose — he was willing to heave a fight to the ‘finish,

It wes from this netive thet Bill secured his cobras. He insisted
on having specimens thet had not had the fengs removed, end

wes essured that the eight or ten he bought were perfect specimens.
They cost eight rupees each - probably en awful gyp.

deck in the sun, someone took one of the horns - good Chinese obat.

We were pleased to see that our animels eppreciated the
merketing we did for them in Bombey. The blue sheep like the new
hey, the mewes kuda likes grepes, 2s do most of the gibbons (even
little Stengah who is so ill set up end ete a few grapes), and ell
the monkeys like siri leeves,xur

fugust 22 -

i fed my gibbon line this morning, chopped up a bucket of
apples, and then spent the rest of the morning nursing Stengeh,
who died in the early afternoon, epperently of pneumonie.

In the lete efternoon the captain called 211 hands on deck
to cover our cages end lash them ell securely, es he had hed
wernings Of bad westher eheed. The see hed been grey end swollen
all day, with e damp wind blowing, but about four o'clock the Ceptain
seid the barometer had dropped suddenly, end he expected trouble.
Everything wes mede es tight as possible, but nothing happened.
The Silverash rides steadily in e moderate see. In the evening
the moon came out, end meade the Arabian Gulf ripple with light.

But for a few moments in the efternoon, with the wind whistling
through the superstructure, and men struggling to hold the billowing
tarpaulin in place while it wes lashed over and eround our animals,
it was a bit exciting. At lest the Sou'west Monsoon seemed about
to cetch up with us. :

Harechi, according to the Captain, is a difficult port to make.
He wes planning to arrive ebout midnight, and enchor outside the
harbor until he could get a pilot in the mcrning to take us in.
He wirelessed ahead, in the fece of the storm warnings, and received
an answer thet cur ship would be teken in whenever it arrived.
Anchoring outside in weather, even such es this, is impossible.

Traveling on a cargo boat is entirely different, end in many
ways much more interesting, than treveling on a passenger boet.
One becomes vitelly interested in the cargo thet comes aboard, end
the amazing variety of it, and the intricate wey in which it hes to
be stowed. The Ceptein does not know eheed of time exactly how
much cargo he will take on in e certain port, or what its destinetion
will be, but when he unloads, the Helifex cargo hes to be on the
top, and the New Orleans cergo on the bottom, no metter where he
has taken it eboard. It is all plotted out in sections, end
allowance made zhead for various things. Coffee and bonemesl
cannot be stowed in the same hatch, or oil and rubber, or exepebte A ee
end eet¢en. In Bombey we took on henemeal, « UA, rt, Creat‘) ote —

August 22

When we woke, we were alongs de the wharf in Kerachi, and
bales of cotton, skins, sesame seed, Japanese pots end pans, end
en amezing veriety of cergo were already being loaded. As soon es
customs and immigration formeklities were over, we went eshore.
We hed been met by Mr. A. Khan and by Nazirmohened, e rascelly-look-
ing animal dealer. The letter accompanied us, and we went first to
the Consulate, where we had rether e bewildering reception due to

the fact that Bill eabsent-mindedly sent in Captain Rowe's card instead
of his own. When the very new Vice-Consul (whom Bill hed assumed to
be the Consul with whom he hed had correspondence) finally put an

end to the Comedy of Errors, we got on very well, and met the Consul,
Mr. Clerence Macy, end had a discussion of the camel situation which
led nowhere. ,

We mey heve been disappointed at finding thet elephants
did not roam the streets of Bengkok. Kerechi made up for it by
the number of camels thet stalk, high-heeadedly through the streets.
Here, unlike any other plece in the world, camels ere used as
dreft animals, and pull rubber-wheeled certs through the town.
We sew one caravan, of a dozen camels losded with sacks, end
many camels with enormous loads of hay on their backs, but the
common method of transportation is these wooden carts, with
sutomobile tires on the wheels, drewn by a camel. The beasts
are unusuelly tall, end would make stunning Zoo animals, but
there is so much surreh in the district that the veterinarian
could not give us a certificete to take one out] Bends of bells
sround their knees edd to the Orientel atmosphere of Kerechi.

Bombay is ea mid-Victorian city. Kerachi is like
picture-book India, with low, flet-roofed houses, some of them
built of edobe. The city is completely isolated. Desert hems
in three sides of it, end even encroaches on the town, 4s we
went through sections that were nothing bit send and a scrubby
mesquite-like growth. The sea makes the fourth boundery, end it
is 700 miles to the next city.

We went out to the Zoo, but there wes little there thet
we wanted. A pair of Indien badgers appeaied to Bill, but the
director, who is a horticulturist, wanted Rupees 500 for the pair,
which was simply silly, and we will have to live without Indian
bedgers.

: We had dinner on the ship. The egent came aboard, and Bill
appealed to him for police protection for our enimals. Natives comex
abosrd in droves to look at our floating Zoo, end while they are not
malicious, they insist on poking their ficen up ageinst the bars,
which is frightening to the animals, and dangerous for the netives.
When Bill meade the rounds after dinner, he was delighted to find
two crimson—be-turbened Afghens with gleaming badges keeping ell
sight-seers et a safe distance. When Jennier and Davis came aboard
about eleven, they hed some difficulty persuading the guard that
it was quite all right for them to look over the stock.

August 24 -

Nezirmohamed met us egein, bright end early, and insisted
on acting as guide for us, although he bores me to death. He talks
too much, showing his betel stained teeth, spreeds a continuel
grin over his pock-marked face, end constantly protests his superb
honesty, end begs us to recommend him to animal dealers in the
Stetes. He brought us three pythons, two cobras - at 12 ruppees
each, and accompenied by the stetement that they were "fixed", thet
ell aveilseble cobres indeed hed thewfangs drawn; some rock. parre-
keets, a hundred evadavits (small, strewberry-like finches), end
three of the common Kerechi crows, handsome, glossy bleck animals
with grey necks.

-124-

Bill is happy because sfter pleading for two weeks for
protection for his enimals on deck, he finally hes them all renged
on top of Number 5 hetch, end e cenvas awning spread over them.
Captain Rowe is happy because he has at last heerd thet he will
be relieved at the end of the trip, and allowed to return to
England to see his wife, and the eighteen-months old son whom he
hes never seen, . :

We had lunch today with the Mecys (American Consul). Their
other guest wes Rosalie Sleughter Morton, author of the best-
seller, "Antobiogrephy of a Women Surgeon". She is e plump and
cheerful ledy of some fifty-odd yeers, spending the income from
her book on e@ trip to the Vale of Keshmirg.

August 25 —

We ordered most of the supplies we need for the voyege

from the ship's Chandler, but mede the rounds of the merket end
picked up more cire leeves, some Kebul melons in the hopes that
the big orang would est them. We had to buy 400 dozen more bananas
12 dozen more eggs, greens, apples, tomatoes, peas and besns, pears
chickens and pigeons. Our menagerie hes a husky appetite, teken

as a whole, although some of the individuals are picky, to sey the
least.

We were supposed to sail eat noon, but loading wes deleyed
by the Ceptain's discovery that five wet beles of cotton hed been
stowed in Number 2. It took four hours to unload end put cotton

beck egein properly. We did not sail until evening.

Dr. Morton is down with dysentery, and although she wanted
to go on to Kashmir, the Mecys persuaded her to stey with them for
a day or two, telling her thet Kashmir wes full of cholera and
dysentery, end no place for en invelid. She complained bitterly
thet for forty years she had been dreaming of gOing to the Vale
of Kashmir; now thet she is on the edge of it, she is delayed by
iliness, and besides is told thet it is a horrbble end dangerous
place, and not even a Valley, but some thousends of feet high.

She actually felt so sorry for herself thet she wept, and wes
terribly embaressed ebout doing so.

Karachi is the first place where we heve been that the
women as well as the men wore sun helmets. The glare from the
desert sun is really terrific, end topi and sun glesses ere
essential for comfort. Evenings ere marvelous, however, with a
breeze that is elmost cold,

August 26 -

Now we ere really heading into the long—dreaded Monsoon,
but it is not as bad es we had been led to believe. There is 2
stiff wind blowing from straight ehead of us, and quite a pitch
to the ship. It is enough to lay Geddi low egain, but none of the
rest of us xm mind it, and it is not too much motion down in
Number 6. We heve a canvas sidewall es well as an ewning, to
keep the breeze off our deck stock.

The gibbons are a trial. One day they all like milk with
viosterol, and the next day they won't touch it. I give them
milk with honey, and thet goes fine for a dey. Then they refuse

anything but tea. One day they like grspes and sweet potatoes.

The next dey they turn up their noses et anything except bananas.
The big brown boy from Sienter refuses to drink anything, but

seizes his drinking pan the moment it is put in the cage and angrily
turns it upside down. The black and white ones that live together,
the two who were so ill in Siam, ere doing well now. The big

white one wes drinking milk this efternoon, delicetely dipping

the back of its wrist into the drinking pan, and licking milk off
its fur. Little black boy, too lazy to come down off his shelf end
get his own supply, would grab the other gibbons hand and try to
lick the milk off that. Roemah Sakit, our camp pet, hes e cold

and is off his feed entirely.

August 27 - 28

We lost a crate of pythons, fourteen medioum sized ones, -
all dead end thrown overboard. The little mouse deer are drop-
ping off, too, which is e real blow. One of our Chieng Mai
gibbons died today of pneumonia.

I brought a small bleck gibbon up to our room, with the
hopes of cheering it up enough to induce it to eat. It seems
not to be ill, but for deys hes refused all food. By rubbing
2 little milk on its hand I got e few drops of liquid into it.
It ate one mouthful of benena, and then went on a hunger strike
agein. In the afternoon I offered it tea, which it ate with
relish, but it can't live on such a diet. It is a sweet
little monkey, affectionate, interested in its new surroundings,
and very tame. I put it in a basket, and put the basket on the
floor. It kept climbing out, and trying to roost on top of
the mirror, or perched on a cheir beck. After I set the basket
on a chair, it cuddled down quite peacefully and went to sleep.

kugux Some of the officers, and half the crew, ere down with a
form of dysentery, which the captain blemes on Kerechi weter. :
After so many cases developed, he ordered the water to be boiled.
»vO far, none of us have any trouble.

The Komodo dregons, which have been doing well up to now,
todey refused to eet. Jennier asked kind of hopelessly, "How long
heve they been in the dark?" The answer was, "Since July 25" -
so whet can you expect? This traveling menegerie, without proper
accomodations, is simply hellish. The Company sh: uld never have
egreed to teke us on a ship so little fitted to the purpose for
which we ere using it.

The weether calmed down in the afternoon, and the night was
beautiful - mild and serene. All the stars were out, end the
weter hed thousends of little phosphorent marine animals, that
looked like reflections in the black weter of the sters in the
sky, or like some sort of marine fire-fly.

August 29 -

The little black gibbon is still alive, but still refuses
to eet. While I wes working down in Number 5, part of the
hatch wes opened up, and I rejoiced in the sunlight and air, thet
so seldom get into that part of the ship. When I ceme up on

~126-

deck, however, I found poor Jennier in despeir, because opening up
number 5, on which his deck cargo is stored, left him no place to
clean and water the ceges, and he wes walking across the steel
beams, doing e regvlar tight rope act, in order to reach Harry,
the cassowery, the kengeroos, end several others in that row.

The day is warm end bright, and we ere all warned to weer
helmets on deck. One of the junior engineers is in bed with
sunstroke which he got on board ship. There is e nice little
breeze, but the Gulf of Aden, which we ere now in, is calm and
sparklingly blue.

Apout nine o'clock at night we pessed Aden - a row of
lights between two light-houses, with the outline of mountains
against the sterry sky. As we were wetching the distant town,

a gorgeous meteor cut across the sky, leaving a path of fire

thet lested for seconds. Someone on shore seemed to be trying to
send us ea signal, but n body aboard got it. Just one of those
things to piaue one's curiosity - flashes in some code which
nobody could read. Well, if it were anything really impor-

tent I dere sey we would heve been wirelessed.

August 30 -

The big orang is ill, es is also Roemah Sakit. One of the
Meden gibbons is dead. The baby I heve teken up to our room
is still living on air. The very thought of food makes him
scornful, and forcing milk down him is a doubtful remedy.

We are really in the Red Sea now, and it is even hotter
than I had been led to believe. Down in Number 6, peeling
bananes and chopping epples, the tempereture wes simply vile.
Sweat poured into my eves, dripped of my elbows, end ren down
my knees. ;

The sea is beautiful, blue and calm, with porpoises to be
seen accasionally, and many schools of fish breaking the water
and disclosing their presence to the flocks of gulls who
swoop down upon them.

We passed Mocha this morning - the nearest, says Bill, thet
we heave been to a good cup of coffee for months.

It definitely is dysentery} and probebly amoebic, that
has seized the ship. seven of the officers have it now. And
we ere forty-eight hours from a doctor.

september 1 -

I heve never known, or imegined, anything like the heat
of to-dey. Number 6 is e veritable Hedes, end all the animals are
suffering bedly. One of Coolidgets beers hed ea heat stroke, and
Jennier rushed him up on the boat deck, where there was no coolness
but e bit of breeze, end dashed cold water over him in an effort to
bring him to. To everybody's great emezement, the little beer
recovered. A little lester, when I was down feeding the gibbons,
the big bleck siamang hed e similer seizure. Jennier took him out
of his cage, and stretched him out on a shady part of the deck. He
was unconscious and twitching ell over.

All of us were soaked with perspiration ell dey, whether
we were working or simply sitting still.

Bill end I slept out on deck eat night, to avoid another
sleepless night like lest night. A little breeze came up, and it
wes not too bed.

september 2 -

We pulled into Port Suden at six in the morning, and a
few minutes later the stevedores were on deck, and sterting to unloed
the cergo we hed for this port. Meny of them were Fuzzies, and l
wes much entranced with their greet mops of curly, woolly hair. ‘Some
of them have it ell stending on end, some of them comb part of it
down to form corkscrew ringlets around their neck. They all sing,
and chent and laugh a grest deel es they work. (),/, | 4

I went below early, to get the morning's work done so that
we could go ashore. Davis, Jennier and Gaddi were all prowling
eround with fleshlights, looking behind cages end under bales of hay
in e most mysterious wey. Devis wes neerly in teers. The pythons
we bought in Kerachi hed escaped from their cege in the night, and

hed killed seven birds, including five jungle fowl, e peacock (the
one we got at Trengenu), and en owl from Sumeatre. Jennier esked me

,, how many pythons I thought there hed been in the box. I said we hed
ir ordered f£étir, but Bill thought there were only threee”™ "Well, we

got three," he seid, "so I suppose thet is the lot."
The simang that hed hest stroke yesterdey is still alive,
but he looks pretty misereble end heedachy. He ate pert of a banana
end then vomited it. All the sm2ll memmals ere hanging listlessly
on their shelves, interested only in copious drinks of water.

We had ordered four gireffe end two buffalo and two shoe-
bills from the Suden Government, and they were waiting for us on
flat cars right on the wharf. It wes ea gret sight to see four
gireffe heads sticking out of cretes, and busily eeting breakfast
es they weited their turn to come aboerd.

Jennier got clawed by the black leopard this morning es
he wes feeding it. Fortunetely he instinctively jerked in the right
direction, so he pulled the claw right out before it had a chance to
rip him badly.

Bill went ashore to see the gireffe, and then had a sessio

-128-

with the ship's chandler, ordering ten more crates of banenes, to

get us to Port Said. Then he came upsteris, end when I found him

he wes stretched out on the bed, se: ing thet the heat had got him
down. I felt him, end he wes burning up. His temperature was lOl
and he seid 2ll the strength hed suddenly gone out of him. Fortunete
ly there wes a doctor aboard, summoned to examine the men who have
dysentery, end he looked Bill over end pronounced it heat stroke.

We had to keep Bill under two electric fens, with cold towels and en
ice bag on him, all dey, end he wes very restless end misereble.

Our new animels were put over the side by e crane, end they
look wonderful - ell of them teme, and in good cages, well padded
to keep out the westher that we shell have later on.

To-day is not auite as unbearable as yesterday. The eis a
little breeze, and while it is hot, it is not quite so humid. One
can work without running rivers of perspiration all the time. The
doctor told us, however, thet the temperature eshore wes 117, and
thet here there are few czses of sun stroke, but many of heet stroke.
Towerds evening the gibbon thet wes so ill, died.

We hed one more excitement before the weary day ended. Just
2s we were waiting for the pilot to come eboerd so that we could sail
the boy told the cs#ptain tome men wanted to see him on deck. The
captein went out, to find two of his Chinese crew in an ugly frame
of mind. They seid thet the seilors on the nearby German ship had
hed the day off - mt was true, for thev had ell been over to see
our enimels and hed mede ea generel nuisence of themselves all dey.
Jennier ssid he wes sick of the Chinese, you couldn't tell them
enything; if he seid, "Stand beck from the tiger cage" they just
leughed. "Thet's why the Japs heave to shoot tem," he seid philo-
sophicaily. However, when our own crew got impertinent, the Captain
threw them off the bridge, end then there wes a row! Two of them
got their beggege and said they were going eshore. Others refused
to do any work. TrexEupkxim One of them kicked the ceptein in
the shins, end another tried to hit him with e bottle, and he hed
to do a little ju jitsu on them to get them back to the forecestle
heed where they belong. Then they ell started fighting among
themselves, throwing soy bean bottles end screaiing at the top of
their lungs. Mutiny on top of everything else we have hed today
seemed like e little too much.

September 6 -

A stiff breeze todey mekes the ship a much more comfortable
-plece to be. Bill still hes © temperature, and is very weak. fhe
ceptein hes decided to jeil two of the mutineers in Port Said.
Otherwise the dey is uneventful - the big news being that the
shoebills ate three fish epiece. Usuelly they ere e bit picky
about food, end there is elweys e chence thet they will mope when
upset by anything like e see voyege. The big mawes kude died, from
e combinetion of generel unheppimess, refusel to eet proper food,
Spekemberxax— end violent dierrhoee. I did not heve the courege
to tell Bill for some hours, in fact not until evening, when his
tempereture wes neerly normel. addi skinned him, and it wes
pethetic to see how little remained of the tremendous beest - just
a smell besketful of red hair.

Septmebr 4 -

We both hed e good sleep lest night for the first time in
many nights, the temperature being e little bit more like whet a
humen being cen stand. me
A Ab?
ee

fewer pythons
in the
Benksi ecketoos — e $6 snake, end e $100 bird (netive prices).
"If Jennier doesn't keep his snekes in better boxes I
, And somebody relayed the tory to
the Cepteain, end he is furious, too. It's too bad the python didn't
get one of the troublesome Chinese insteed of our rerest bird.

Bill spent the dey in bed, still running e slight tempera-
ture, and feeling very week. I heve some sort of rheumetism, thet
sets up an eching in all my joints, end gives me a slight temperature
elsol ,

September 5 -

We awoke on the edge of the Suez Canel. Suez itself is
quite ea town, with smeall-size skyscrepers, end perks, and a statue
of DeLesseps just where the canal begins.

Bill begen the dey by setting his heert on a shore excursion
the excuse being that I hed never seen the pyremids. I protested.
that he wes not well enough, and the Captain backed me up, but Bill
was determined, and about eight-thirty we left the ship, teking a
big Buick cer and a guide nemed Abdul Abdallah. We stopped in a
cefe in Suez for a cup of thick Fgyptien coffee, and then heeded out
of town and into the desert.

The Sehera is one place that lives up to expectations. Sand
end send dunes stretch to the horizon, broken only by the black ribbon
of esphelt road, end the occesionel scrubby bushes thet furnish

most unappetising cemel fodder. We sew e camel patrol, which Abdallah
says is one of many thet heve made the desert sefe traveling now,

end auite different from the deys when Bill wes here before, and

Arabs took pot shots et one simply for the fun of it. I also some
something thet I have never quite belicved in - e mirege. Through

the sand dunes, and bordered by the brownish green scrub, were

severel miles of beautiful blue lekes, that wound in end out in
legoon-like petterns, cool and deceptive.

Towerds noon we reeched Ceiro, and went at once to the
Museum. Our time was so short thet we £riztxkoxxee did not ettempt
to see more then the gelleries devoted to Tutenkhamen. Even here
there was so much material thet one could heve spent e week. Models
of ships, 211 sorts of household furnishings, elabaster lamps,
jewels - gold, turquoise, enamel - pottery, the gold-encrusted mauso-
leum, the coffins themselves - it was an overwhelming exhibition.

From the Museum we went out to the Zoo, which is e@ very
fine one. Bill hed received this morning eae letter from the American
Consul, who enclosed a list of animals that the Zoo was willing to
let us have. Armed with tuis list, we went into the Director's
office, but found that he wes away, end his assistent knew nothing

whatever of his plans. He wes very unwilling to let us heve any
specimens, end whet we finelly pried loose from him were ten jerboes
two hedgehogs, end two lizards (Dabs). The jerboes ere cunning little
mice, with long legs end pleesent yellow fur. We put the entire
collection in the beck of the cer, end went on to the Mene House
fifteen minutes! drive from the Zoo, and on the edge of the Pyramids.

I must sey thet FEgyptts famous monuments are more impressive
seen from a distant. Looming up out of the desert sands they ere
softened into romentic outlines - romantic, probably, because they
ere exectly like all the pictures one hes ever seen of them. familiar

from childhood, and yet new when one sets eyes on them for the first
time. When one if close to them, they are huge and rather crumbly
piles, greet blocks of stone, and one is so forcibly reminded of the
humen sweat end egony that went into the making of them, thet there
seems little beauty in them. Our guide wanted me to ride > camel
across the send to see the Sphinx, but our time was so limited, and
we were both feeling so feeble - Bill with his hest stroke arid: ie

with wy rheumatics - thet we weekly said "N CHhi aes 4
3 S lat we weekly said "No, the sphinx must we
for our next visit." Distent view of pyremid’t an Saknare very iovely.

ten vega s
I have been heering tales of Abdul, end heve always pictured him as
ea sort of rescally Areb guide. When Bill begen making inquiries ebout
him today, I thought it would be emusing to see him in the flesh. He
used to live in a little villege right et the foot of the pyramids.
Bill asked an old guide et the Mene House if he knew him, and to his
great delight found thet Abdul was now working for the Department of
Agriculture, and we hestened to the Depertment to look for Abdul.
Alas, he hed gone home for the day, but as his home was not fer ewey
we went there, end drive down a narrow, dusty street into a little
village of flat-roofed, mud houses. Our guide went to look for
Abdul, end presently e tall, finely built Egyptien, with erect and
graceful bearing, came towards us down the little street. Bill wes
out of the cer in e flash, and g°ing over to the man gave him the Areb
greeting that he had learned from him a querter of a century ago. It.
was interesting to watch the two men's feces - the Egyptian, dignified
but puzzled, Bill eager, proud end happy. Then Bill said "Don't you
remember Jebel—el-Sheik?" fnd the derk, aquiline face melted suddenly
into the most winning of smiles. He put both arms erounc Bill, kissed
him, and both of them were nearer tears then smiles for ea moment. Even
I choked up over the sentimentelity of the reunion. Twenty-three years
ago thev hed been prectically blood brothers, had lived end fought end
hunted together, and a three minutes' visit wes all they could heve.
Even then, Abdul had to tell me some of the tings that they had gone
through together. He wented us to come to his house for coffee, which
I would heve loved to have done, but our time was too short, and with
effectionate ferewells, we drove on. Abdul is a swell guy, and I
would like to go on a shikeri with him myxexfx and Bill myself.

Leaving Ceiro, we went through the outskirts of the town,

end through the ancient Heliopolis. Here is the obelisk, marking the
wenter of the town, that Napoleon once took to Paris for the Place de
le Concorde, end which the Egyptians now have back egain. Farther on
is the Virgin's Tree, where Mery rested when she took the Child into
Egypt. Reminders of Biblicel days are on all sides of one. The
native dress, the little villeges of flet-roofed houses, the sheep

and the camels and the donkeys, ell fill out vividly one's memory of

pictures in tStories From the Bible" that one read so long 2go. We
drove until long past twilight through these femiliar end encient
scenes. Then, at derk, cut across the desert egein, and efter two

hours of exceedingly rough road, with send in one's eyes, but the

desert sters overhead, came to Ismailiah, on the Canal, where we stopped
for a bit of refreshment.

The rosd from Ismeiliah on is good, an esphelt drive beside the
Canal, where we saw the big steamers coming through, each one with :
2 blinding headlight, thet illumines not only the Canal but e hundred
yerds of desert each side. At nine ofclock we passed Kantere, where
the night train for Jerusalem stood, lighted, and reedy for hkx its
rune Shortly afterward we pessed the Silveresh. We blew our horn,
turned on the lights in the cer, and weved, but hardly expected thet
enyone on board would notice us. The Czptein misses little however,
end gave us one short toot of recognition.

Into Port Said about ten, and e first stop et Simon Artz,
which has grown from the little Oriental store thet Bill remembered, in
to a big, modern Department store. We each wented e felt het to
land in, and made our selections auickly. Then Abdvl Abdallah took
us to e not very choice Greek restaurent, where we had food end drinks
to kill the time until we could get eboard the Silverash.

About one'tclock we actually came up the steep and tilted
gangwey. The Captain's room wes full of police, and the two ring-
leaders of the "mutiny." There hes been trouble emong the crew
ever since Port Suden. The Captain put one of the men in shackles,
whereupon the whole crew refused to work. He was determined to get
rid of two of them to-night, but the police said they had no euthority
to take sailors off the ship. So they were put in the ship's brig,
and will be ettended to to-morrow.

September 6 -

We went eshore ebout eight o'clock, called on the Consul,
found e small bird store where we bought six lizards, and rembled
about the streets, being emused by the fortune-telliers, shoe-shiners,
coffee-purveyors, sellers of pearls, and the general air of the tom.
We smoked Amebr cigerettes end bought lotus perfume in one little
shop, and Bill fell for e Rolex watch at Simon Artz, principally
I think becevse a running wetch wes kept in an aquarium of goldfish.

When we came beck to the office to see about getting e leunch
for the Silverabh, Captein Rowe was there, end simply furious because
he hed been able to do so little about his mutineers. fhe British
Consul had told him he should be more discreet, and thet his (the
Consults) job was to protect Chinese working under the British fleg
rether then jail them. The Captain finelly went to the police himself
snd said he wented them o go out and get the two sailors end put them
n jail - which wes eventually dine.

Bill and I had a set-to with the ship's chendler, who charged
us too much for exchange, after putting en awful price on food anyway,
and sold us rotten benanes, dead queil when we hed ordered live ones,
end left us with tears, insisting we hed gypped him after all the
herd work he had done on cur behelf.

September 7 -

Our first dey in the Mediterranean - bright, sunny, ea fresh
breeze, everything fine except for the ominous lowering of life
boats, end the conspicuous British flags flying, to remind us thet
we ere now going through e wer zone. All boats ere swung out on
davits, and ea big British ensign is peinted on the cenvaes ewning
of the boet deck. Severel British merchantmen heve been sunk this
week off the coast of Spain, the theory being that the Italians
have misteken them for Russien ships cerrying supplies to the
Loyalists.

The giraffe we got in Port Suden ere doing well, except thet
the littlest one refuses to drink tinned milk . I suggested todey

using Lactol, and to our great delight he drank he Lactol. We

have enough for about four more feedings, end perhaps by that time
he will heve forgotten the teste of fresh milk and be wiiling to
drink one of the severel brands of canned milk thet we heve sboerd.

The shoebills are doing well on elternete deys, which is
about es well es could be expected. One dey one of them eats four
fish, the other ones; next dey the one that wouldn't eat yesterday
eats four fish, end the well-fed one has merely one. They ere fine
big specimens.

veptember 8 -

The little gibbon thet has lived on air for so long, finaily
died. I don't know how he survived this long. He alweys seemed
so interested in evervt ing that went on, was always reedy to play,
and was so affectionate. But et the mere sight of food he would
turn ewey in revulsion, end for weeks now has had nothing more
substantial then e few drops of Lactol, or a sip of tea.

september 9 -

As we approech Melte, the Captein radios to the Admirelty
for instructions, es per his orders from New York. Nothing happens,
end we plow along through cool and slightly rolling seas.

september 10 -

The Captain got en answer to his wireless, which was "No
special instructions. Keep ten miles off the Spanish Coast, and
look out for floating mines." Leter in the morning he got a
radio message from a French ship thet a mine hed been sighted by
them, and the Silveresh eltered its course accordingly.

Conversation at meal times is all of wer, and whet America
and Britain ought to do, end what they would heve done in Nelson's
day, and so forth. Fveryone hengs over the radio news in the
evening. And I went to know what mines and torpedoes end submarines
reelly look like, and how big is a bomb, end what effect all these
wer-like implements heve when dropped on e merchent ship in peece-
time. None of the enswers ere et ell encoureging. But the coast
of Tunis, which is close this afternoon, looks peaceful, end except
for a few sailing vessels, we have seen no one - friend or enemy.

I forget 2ll these worries when T em below with my gibbons.
They are the most entrancing animals I heve ever know. The black
end white pair thet live together sing me a duet every time i 20
neer. They heve an amusing wey of shering their food, end especially
their drink. When I give them e dish of milk, or of ter, the white
one, with the longest arm, dips his wrist into it, end then just as
he gets 2 lick off his fur, the little black fellow tekes his wrist
ewey end licks it himself. Often, when one has e fist full of
greves or banena, the other will eat out of the other fellow's hand
instead of teking some for himself.

We separated the peir of Sumatran orengs today. The female is
e glutton, end a bully, and hes her poor mete so hen-pecked that he
3s afraid to teke e morsel of food for hi self. She will greb as
many as seven banenaes - sometimes putting three in her mouth at once -
to keep him from having any. One of them now hes the cage thet the
big Mawas Kuda had before he died.

We ere heving benenae troubles - either great bunches of them
turn rotten overnight, or there ere none ripe et all. Today ell
benanes eborrd are green, end we ere herd put to it to find substi-
tutes. Devis hes some birds that will eat nothing else, such as
hornbills and fruit pigeons, though he is greduel.y breaking them
in to melons and grepes. So he gets the few that cen be found, and
the rest of us heve to feed pumpkins end sweet potatoes, which nobody
likes aquite as well. The Borneo orang is 2 joy. He eats anything
eat all, pleys with straw and chews on it if there is nothing else
aveileble, and waltzes with joy every time he sees me coming down
the liie with a trey of food.

September 12 -

The Mediterrsnean, es e winter cruise, must be something of
ae disappointment if these few days of September weather have been a
feir se mple. Deys have been cold, rainy, and windy; the sea gray
with white-caps. Today wes a bit better, in fact I stretched out on
Number % hetch for 2 sunbeth this afternoon, and enjoyed a game of
deck tennis in the x£ker evening. We have built e regular ter-
peulin tent around the gireffe to keep out the breeze, end they seem
happy so far. Even the little one is now drinking cenned milk, end
they all est well.

The femele blue sheep kicked her way out of her cage yester-
dey, and denced all over the ship before enybody noticed her. When
I went below to give the gibbons tee, she was tied on top of Number
5, feeling very frisky, end weiting for Geddi and Jennier to nail
her cage together eagein for her. It's a good thing it wasn't the
mele who got out, as he is rather a mean devil. If y u put your hend
in his cage to pet him, he always tried to smesh you with his horns.
But the femele is e reguler pet.

The birds in Number 6 contirue to thrive, and we need have
no temperature worries ebout them. The pelm oil stored below our
animels hes to be heeted, end is now at a tempereture of 100, so that
the &kaurxum deck under our cages is warm t. the touch, and the
temperature of the hatch is thet of midsummer.

Devis hes worked out all new formules for his birds, besed on
the current shortege of benenes. Melons and pumpkins are chopped
up end so disguied that even the fruit pigeons ere teking them readi-
ly. One big West Coast hornbill hes e raucous call that sounds
exectly like "Devis! Devis!" end keeps it up ell morning until he
is fed. Our old friend Jacob, from Piroe, is in e cage with severel
yellow-crested cocketoos, and they have all learned to say his name
now. I went over to the cag e and c#lled Jecob yesterdey, and
one of the sulphur-crested birds came right to the front end seid
"Jacob" to me. "Shame on you," seid, “youtre not Jacob at ell,"
end had little difficulty in picking out our pet, as he is the largest
and handsomest of ell our cockatoos.

Ali the gibbons (there are only six now, and we started with
thirteen) know me, end begin to sing the moment they see me coming
down the line with food. If 1-sit on the floor in front or the
cage and stert seying "Whoo - whoo - whoo" to them, they mimic me
exactly. I call them my choir. One of them will sit and hold
hends with me for hours et e time. The black and white boys from

About eight-thirty we pessed Gibralter. It wes too dark
to see more then a cloud-like outline of the famous rock. Our
sl gen for Davis end Jennier now is "Join the Zoo end see the
world - by flashlight.” We signelled ashore in Morse to let
them know that the Silveresh was pessing Gibrelter, and the word
could be passed on to Llovd's that we were sefely out of the war zone.
We thought we had been pretty lucky to get by with nothing more than
a werning of a floeting mine, especially es we had seen one ship
being towed into Morocco, under escort by 2 battleship; and the ©
expkxim hed seen = grim reminder of a British oil tenker's fate when
we seiled through a long stretch where the surface of the sea was
reainbow-hued with floating oil. We were all in the little lounge,
known es the "day-room", ebout ten otclock, when we noticed powerful
lights on deck, end went out to see whet wes up. A ship, with
terrificelly powerful search lights, wes swiftly epproaching us
eft. When it was so close I thought it would hit us in a second
more, it swerved, came along the port side, still very close, and
pleying thet glering head light ell over our ship. The young
red-headed apprentice ren like mad to the stern to fly our ensign,
end from the bridge we heerd the signal to the engine room "Stend
By." Our strange visitor turned, swiftly end noiselessly, passed
in beck of us again, came up the starboard side, then wheeled end
venished into the night. It wes an uncenny performence. Nobody
could meke out who she wes, except that it wes e cruiser, and
the concensus of opinion was thet she wes e Spenish Insurgent
bettleship, for no gwkmexy ship of eny other country would be so
curious and so mysterious ebout it. A British battleship, check-
ing up on pessing ships, would heve wirelessed or signalled in
Morse.

September 1lé -

Todey we ere well out in the Atlantic, end although it is
cool, the weather is fine, end so fer not too chilly for our animals
on deck. We ere taking the southern ccurse on eccount of our
perisheble cargo, and will be south of the Azores, in fact wouth of
the Gulf Stream all the way, until we cut north to make Halifax.

september 1&8 -

All hes gone well for deys, except for losing the lerger of
the Komodo dregons. The see hes been smooth end blue, end the air
perfect. Working around the animels hes been fun, just enough to
keep us busy, end the gibbons have been holding up pretty well -
not e loss since the little bleck boy.

Todey, however, the weather chenged, and the ship wes rolling
considerably at lunch time, As the efternoon wore on, the storm
increesed with derming suddenness. Bill wouldn't let me go below
to feed the gibbons et three o'clock, es the decks were awash, end
the footing very treacherous, due to the decks having been painted
with oil yesterday, end being slippery even when they were not

wet and rolling. In spite of being leshed together, many of the
bird cages started to slide, end hed ell to be re-arranged end
mede doubly secure. Gaddi, of course, wes see-sick, which threw
extre work on everybody.

All afternoon there wes the sound of crashing end banging,
@s kitchen crockery, glasses and bottles, chetrs and tables over-
turned and rolled ebout. Weves were breaking over the boet-—deck

by dinner time, end plenty of seas were coming regulerly eboard.

We had racks on the teble for the first time on all the sees we heave
seiled since leaving home.

After dinner we sat, uncomfortably, in the little dey-roon,
the settee there being built in, end ebout es secure ea thing to hang
Ge on to es there is on bosrd. lt had just seid, about eight-thirty,
"I think I'll heve one drink end go to bed," when I heard the tele-
graph from the bridge to the engine room, end the Captin deshed through
our room, on his way to the bridge, putting on his cost as he went.
Then of course we hed to wait up until he came beck, to get his
report on whet hed heppened. secretly we hoped thet the Fndeavor
had’ been sighted, for how we would love to heve the opportunity of
rescuing the famous yacht. However, when the Captein ceme back,
he seid thet the engine wes racing, due t the propeller being out
of weter, end we hed sleckened speed. Thet seemed to be ell right,
end we went out on deck for e while, to watch the moon sail crazily
beck end forth behind the big blue end white funnel, end to see the
huge sees, their foaming crests mede luminous by moonlight, come
racing up to us. As we stood there, men were busily running ebout
on the wet decks, all of them in oilskins, end with high rubber
boots. The Ceptain said, "They ere ell going eft; I'll just take
@ look and see whet is wrong." This time he came back to report thet
the wind hed teken away most of the tarpaulin over the gireffe cages,
end thet in spite of the wey in which these big cretes (eleven feet
high) hed been leshed, they hed slipped four inches. "I've given
orders to tighten them up,"he seid. "Now I must go on the bridge."
He went up the ladder two steps at a time, end we heard the telegreph
to the engine room ring agein - this time it wes "Deed slow". That
meens about two knots an hour, end et this speed the Ceptain turned the
ship about, so that we hed the sea deed sheed instead of on our bean,
end we hove to for three end e haif hours, while our live cergo
— was all made safe, and leashed end braced with ropes and lumber. It
wes atezing how eesily the ship rode, once the engines slowed down
end we headed south insteed of northwest.

‘he

a

-~140-

It wes two in the morning when we finelly got to bed. Curious
to think thet all this is caused by a depression in Bermuda.

September 19 -

The see is calmer this morning, end although we ere still
rolling considerably, there ere no waves coming eboard, and I wes
able to get down and take cere of my stock, and to help out witn the
animeis that Gaddi usuelly feeds. It was not too pleasent, however;
the smells of enimals and food left me no appetite for lunch, and
it took courage to go back end finish the job in the afternoon.

Our benane problem hes been most perplexing ever since we
left Port Seid. The ones thet were ripe then were too ripe, and
meny of them spoiled before we could use them. The ones that were
green are still green, or ripening so slowly that everybody fights
over the few that ere edible from dey to day. Davis hes to heve
benenes for some of his birds, but my gibbons prefer banenaes to
everything else, and besodes that is the easiest end quickest food
to prepere, end seems to suit everybody. Every dey we count up,
end sey "Only five more days - only four more deys - only three
more days - until we cen buy more benanes."

ceptember 20 -

A fine morning, with the sea getting rougher towerd evening.
One more thing to worry about - to-morrow we leave the Gulf Streem
end there will be e drop in tempereture. We ere trying to get
& wireless reports on the temperature in Halifax - so fer with no
success. Boston is 60, and thet is all right, but anything lower
then thet may meen disester to our big stock thet hes to stey on
deck, with only hay end terpaulin between it and the cold world.

september 21 -

A cold breeze was blowing in the morning, and got steedily
colder ell day. We left the Gulf Stream at 6 o'clock, end the
temperature then wes 58. All afternoon the Captain end the electri-
clan worked on putting 500-watt bulbs in the gireffe ceges Over
each animal's head the big lamp wes hung, first ape sereened
to keep the animels Bah licking the he-ted bubls The gireffes ere
sensible enimels epperently, end soon beceme used to the bright lights
overheed, teekvthine was tucked in at night with plenty of hay,
end terpeulin mede as tight eround the ceges <s possible.

This wes the night of the Captain's dinner, end we were ell
pleesed to come down to the dining room and see that the British
American and N.G.&S. flegs constituted the decorations. I heve
set through many end many e ceptaints dinner, but never one thet
wes quite so friendly or so much fun as this one. We hed Captain
Rowe's special cocktails first, end wine with dinner. We hed
some of the Egyptian aquaeil - the ones thet Bill ordered es live
specimens end they came eborrd all dressed for the teble - end

ee then set talking until midnight, getting occesionel reports on the
weether. The see was calm, end the wind subsided, so that elthough
the temperature was in the liw fifties we hoped everything would
be all Tien.

ceptember 22 -

Ali the animais seem to heve survived the chilly night,
in fact they ere unususlly peppy end hungry. The big bulbs in the
gireffe cretes raied the tempereture about ten degrees for these
delicate and beautiful creatures. Harry is full of fight, and
although the smeil tepir got turned ercund in his cage and couldn't
turn back again, meking feeding extremely difficult, evervthing
is apparently doing as well es possible. Down in Number five
we decided to move the birds and gibbons into Number Six, which is
heated by the pelm oil tenks underneeth. The two lutengs hKzxe
seem.to be feeling the cold, and refuse to eat, for the first time
since we heve hed them.

We sighted the Nove Scotien coast ebout one-thirty, end
it wes ea Yreel thrill to see land again, to know that we would soon

be ashore, and that we would egein, efter so many months, heve our
feet on American soil. A flicker flew aboard to welcome us, and it
looked so deer end femilier, efter the tropicel perrots end cockatoos.
We ere out of banenes — the ones that we bought in
Port Seid having been e pein in the neck the whole wey ecross. We
ordered some ripe ones, some half ripe, and some green. When they
came aboerd the ripe ones were reeacy to deliquxesce, and hed to be
thrown overboerd before they could be eaten. Others are not yet
ripe, end we heve pieced out the enimals food with pumpkin, melon,
end whatever we hed. -est night we were wondering how long it
would be be from the time we lended until we could buy beneneas,
end et leest give the enimels e good efternoon meel, even if the
morning feed was pretty sketchy. The Ceptein sent e code messege
to the compeny esking them to send out 600 bananas by the pilot
boat if possible, if not to have them on the dock as soon as we
errived.

The pilot came out, ebout two o'clock, rowed out in his
little boet from the big pilot ship, and as there were no bananas
the Captein gave the signel to pull up the ledder end get under way.
Just es we began to move forward, another boet, a launch with
severel men in it, came close, end the men held up e big bunch of
benanas. The Ceptein stopped the boet egein, end the men end the
banenes were teken eboerd. To our greet surprise, Shippen of the
Star, Gross of the Post, Kerbey of the Geographic, end Commender
Jeffrey of the Healifex Chronicle, were all on the deck with us,
es well as the 6CO benenes. It geve us time to feed all the stock
with their fevorite food before we ever docked at Halifex,- which
wes pretty grend.

When we docked, Mrs. Devis was there to greet Malcoln,
and eas soon es the birds had had their fill of banenes, the two went
heppily shore. Roberts of the Geographic wes also there to meet
us, and to teke moving pictures of the Silverash, proudly flying the
Geographic flag, coming into herbor. Mrs. Devis, Roberts, Shippen
and Gross ell went to ride down to New York on the ship with us,
end the Captein doesn t know whet to do. He hes eccomodetions for
only five passengers, ordinerily. Kerbey hed secured e passage,
making six, but one is Geddi, who lives with the crew, and hence
doesn't count. The rules are made pertlv on account of life boet
eccomodation, but the wording of the Captein's certificate is not
quite cleer, as he is allowed to teke 55 persons altogether, and
on account of heaving to put two of the crew off in Port Said, he
could take ell these people end still not exceed his life boet

cepacity. So efter puzzling for ip sil and listening to ell
the entreeties of his would-be pessengers, he egreed to telegreph
New York and see whet they seid about it.

The American Conshl and Mrs. Hurd, the Vice Consul and
Mrs. Esslinger ceme aboerd to welcome us. Mrs. H. is Germen,
Mrs. E. French,

h

We went eshore for dinner, to the Nova Scotian Hotel,
end hec a good meal of sea food, Later we came beck to the
ship, All the newspeper people, plus e newspeper gel who was
weiting for us. Bill kept them entertained with sbbréesof this
end other trips till neerly midnight.

ceptember 2% -

The five new pessengers hung around the boat all morning,
weiting for the verdict. It did not come until nearly noon, end
1s unfevoreble. Kerbey is the nly one who is to be ellowed

“
ve
ey
Cs
hy

MM

passage down with us. Mrs. Davis wept, but the others cheered
themselves up by admiring the Ledv Dreke, enchored neer us, end
decided to go down to Boston on her.

Beceuse of water in the palm oil tenks, we were delayed
in sailing, and did not get away until about 4.70. The sun hes
been werm all dey, but the wind is cold, and the tempereture
dropped et night to 48. We moved ever: thing out of Number 6
into Number 6, where it is such warmer, end the little lutengs
stopped shivering, and with warmth, end artificial light, began
to eet egein, and even to groom themselves, which goodness knows
they need —- their long teils heve become very dirty from being
cooped up in = cage for~so long.

september

It is a spring-like day, with smooth sees end
sun. All the animals hed to moved off Number 5 hetch
meke wey for unloeding of cargo in Boston, end es the
lined up along the deck, with the noondey sun pouring
cege, you could see the animels visibly relaxing end basking ‘in
the wermth. Gloucester fishing boats, end porpoises pleving in
the water, added to the idyllic quelitv of the day. ©

We got a wireless message at breekfast from the N. B. C.
in Boston, who went to stege a broadcast from the ship
Bill cable d that it would be all right, but at lune ch
iaseubeed to get the following reply: "Thenks for yo
meet you when you dock best eveileble informetion I
you will dock et Pier 2 Eest Boston inesmuch es neces
casting facilities must be ordered now I am ordering seme Pier
2 please request your skipper to cooperete to extent of docking at
that location if you dock et different pier it will upset every-
thing many thanks please wire me collect if originel plan es
to time end place of dociing is chenged".

Knowing that the Ceptein does not always know, until the
pilot comes eaboerd, at which pier he is to dock, and ce that is
about the only metter on which he is not complete Czar, amused us
immensely. And the Cepteain seid: "Wire him 'Only fishing boats
heve skippers! ",

»
te 4
ry
&
: i
a .
s
f
\ :
Vv .
oa : ‘ ,
“ * i :
¢ % ‘ 3

he

Sh

~1L44-

And Sperks head typed e nest little egend$: "With reference to

collect messages, there is no such facility in the Wireless
C ; ?
Service.

We reached quarantine too late for the doctor, and spent
the night peecefully enchored in the Harbour.

eeptember 25 -

We awoke in the eerly morning to find ourselves enveloped
ina thick wool of fog. Foghorns were blowing, to right and
left of us,. and the doctor, who was supposed to come aboard at
six, didn't show up until 8.20. By that time’the weather had
cleared, end sbout ten we were actuelly alongside Albany Pier 2.
Alice, Mildred and Austin Boose. ‘hed come ,to meet us; also Helen
Coolidge, Mrs. Christophe SchultsS Roget “conent, Dan “Herkin’s
Of course Roberts, Gross end Shippen. fhe one person. Bill
wented to see wes the American Railwev Fxpress Agent, and the two
of them went into a huddle in regerd to New York errengements
for unloading us to-morrow.

Ca ¢

The N. B. C. men were there, end hed menaged to get the
bweedcast postponed till 11.45, giving them an extra half hour
to get ready. Wires were strung over Number 5 hetch, where

argo wes ectuelly being discharged, en the broedcast ceme off

during the cba aabsiees confusion, and under the greatest difficul-
ties. With winches squerking, end wkxx stevedores shouting
end everybody giving helpful avice. Bill wes interviewed on

& the highlights of the trip . He introduced Geddi, who said a
few precise, well-chosen words in Dyak. The ennouncer in
describing Geddi, seid he was about 4 feet high (No, sir, 5, says
Geddi) with very black heir, wearing tortoise-shell glasses, end
his native Dyek costume (this consisted of ea blue beret, an
imitetion mackinew, uma a pair of dirty pants, a knife in his
belt, and tennis shoes). The big tiger roared nicely for the
microphone, but it was lost; the otter, who has squealed since
the day he ceme abeord, was stricken with sudden shyness, and the
only good performer wes the bleck leopard, -— but then he would
elwevs roar. Incidentelly he nicked one men in the leg, end the
men swore, and the mike had to be itn eats moved out of reach of
the unpremediteted profenity.

All day long we had guests. Apout five o'clock we went
ashore to have an oyster feed. We were lete in sailing, es a
greet deal of the Boston cargo was "optional", end after being
unloaded, wes put beck in the hold egain. It was 10.80 when we

Sena

finelly moved stern-first ewey from the pier.

September 26 -

The wind this morning is brisk end cool, but the sun shone as
we ceme down the coest. Storm wernings were flying et every light-
house, end the Ceptain told us that e Jepanese liner in Boston had
steyed there rether then follow us along the threatening coast into
New York. It geve us en uneasy feeling, end we had the ceges in
Number 6 tied together egain. Meny of them were loosely stecked
since being moved out of Number 5, but the cerpenter, for the lest
time, brought out plenks end neiled the cages together in sections
so thet one would hold the other upright.

At eight otclock we pessed Ambrose Light, enc hung over the
reil for the least time watching the pilot come aboard. fs ine
small town, where the netives go down to the depot to see the train
come in, SO we hum gether et the reil to watch the pilot come aboerd-
eny event thet breeks the monotony of days at see is interesting.
Besides, in ea swell, such as we have tonight, one has to admire the
egility of the men who steps from e bouncing rowboet to the rope
ledder and brings himself up on to the mein deck.

Ah few moments later Captein Rowe came into the dey roon,
gexyex smiling, het cocked rekishly over one eve, and re; orted "Itve
found your lest port for you. After this you'll heve to find your
own ports."

We were, of course, too lete to land. X¥erxthexysrxe It never

seemed odd to sleep in the herbor of Singepore, Beleawan, or Bombay,
but somehow going to bed in full sight of the Stetue of Liberty
with ea huge Wrigley sign fleshing colored lights into our cebin,
seemed strenge. foxnerry toxkomey> eniyyet

September 27 -

I wes up at five o'clock, end es soon es it was light enough
Llembered dowm into Number 6 to cleen and feed my charges for the
lest time. Davis end Jennier hed been up most of the night, end
hed ell the ceges nailed fast, and everything ready to move. Ther
was delay, of course, in la nding, but by ten o! clock the big fan hy
begen to: go over the side, where they were loaded into trucks waiting
on the pier.

The New York office head been pretty strict about ellowing
visitors to the Silverash, end Bernice Siebold, who sails to-morrow
for Liberia, wes our only unofficiel guest. Of course the cuaren-
tine inspectors, customs men, express egents, etc., were ail over
the plece, and kept Bill busy. Just after lunch Frenk Buck showed
up. for a brief visit.

We had lunch on board - our last curry - and shortly there-
after went eshore ourselves. I hated to leave the ship that hed
been our home for fifty days, and could only keep myself cheered
up by meking the Captain reiterate his promise thet me would let

know when she came into Baltimore, end we could see him and it
egeain there. :

There wes considereble difficulty ir setting the giraffes
off the pier. he Sudan government hed shipped them to us in

-~145-

1ll-foot crates, end they covld not get through the doors from the
wherf out to the street. All thet could be done wes to sew them
© down, then and there, end the et cat Pes rode through the streets of
Staten Islend, New York, end over to Athenie with no tops to their
cages at all — and it is chilly day. Later we learned the
when they got to the auerentine ste ‘tion, the cretes would not go
into the berns there Jennier, in desperea tion, said, "Well, I
think the gireffes ere pretty teme. Let's lead them in." And thet
wes whet they hed to do,

A

train. Gaddi end Devis rode eae later express with the
Arriving in Weshington four hours le hee we were met eg

Bill and Kerby, Mrs. Devis end I came down on th
2 e
as e t
newspeper wir oie te

ac

buf ade

a
n ; n by

rs and photogrephe as well as by Dr. and Mrs.
Grosvenor, the LaGorces, McKnews, and "Mrs. Kerby. Fo h
hoped would be the lest time, we beamed for the fleshl

shook hands all round.

It is the end of e long vovege, end we ere tired and
glad to be once more et home.

mithsonian Institution

vn ] f (Os ihe

i hakkis. Mo te Fem ‘
need df é it ye ee nm
{ P & Me td. aes 2g

hy, %
¢ *
if

doura victoria ey ... Mietoria erowned pigeor

oe a sclater ee 5 , ; Selate t's orowned piceo

Po Se “eo (a
Bie ER ew ey By :

CMe a - ones J frait piace

*e eee te © eee ee

a
vg
.
f
os
rf
/

fh : ‘ | ,
Tanypnet us PR CNL Fp Po yw ifn P pe Saas

we *

o* .
+ 6 ewe ee Oe
eee aeee

bhe-
broke, |
ited

oe
oe

is

igni

h freight-
spark.

ists at 20 degrees
—News-Acme.

en
ine

tis
1]

which was

rl
fue
room

ter
2

rooklyn P

owe e «
cece € + oe ee &

s at her East River

h |

blaze

Fire started
ine

l

A

ras
when a
ol

OKLYN

.
e°

.

*

she
ier.

lieve

d
spilling
by an eng

BRO

er Silve

as
p
]

,

s,

»
a ‘a*e a n'a: )

+
*e*

2

LJ »*
+? uM re”

» hes
en e's aw

a8

s¢
oe .F + 8 + 2»
o 6° 9 4 *
Onm

—

s

= +6 2 * + 2s,
ntat a oF O4@,

-* > « 48 *
.

os

24.4.2

=
a7

~
i

ate! ier

J
9 6%
LD 8
*¢

= so eo

?

*

*
»

*

#2 ee

*
*e a

2

©

**
* 8

it
*€
A

see e
a

‘e'0*

a

as

A)
*
*

wot
i

“

*

ose 0a 9 *

*

‘a’ g*e e's
ee es
Oe

ae &
ese
o-oo ©

ae @
lata’

4

*
6

*

iJ
*

.
2

-

e e8

.
erat
ae

«

ere «.

4.
'e
vs
wtete
eo
* + *

s+
nae .
“oe

&
*

2+
os
«

*
Oe
‘3
at
oiee

Pt
*

8
*

%

Ay
.
#.%,

bear)
as

~~

a
‘ae ee

tte

Pere

A Pl

A

-*
2.9.4 8 4

4.
“bes

i Pree:

-

»

as

as

=

LJ
4.6 8 64 aD

Lm
* 8

FP atete
5

+o 6
fata’

+9 68 #.
Crate re
ee ‘de

*

¥

2

2 6 9 2 8

gt

-
* .
*

.

2-29 ee

= + 2 fe
ee ee lad

a9 ee,

see wne

, Sis ¢ Oi @ -@ *4 a
Ce ee ".* : iterate Carsie
we, - . Faye
FATT De Bed ,
PEPE LTE

-?
~

46.) @ >

ee
+ = eo

e-
x

°

~

<= *,

=

2

wate
arate!
+. “*

ee

ee"

a

= = 5 o.%
Pe ee ee oY

i Oe te ee

.
*

eeu ee

.

ES"
2 Bata”

i

>
A

fe Secs
Le 7%,

oe * «0%

"ain" s a a6 9

eseaeee

s,* +g
ee)

a
.

a)

ae

=

Pan 3H
.
.

6.4»
‘*

at
oa

.
*

Ad

im)
mm)
. 2.
*,* eta

Ce
Med
ist
by

ne,

Se%,

<8

ne
7 Oe

‘ee.

. .
‘dt San
-o es © Bw
8 2 Rw *

oe

wae
* ‘ane

Fo

*

}
*

9 Ky,

ae

He Fought for Life With One Arm

«
evtrce . 3 - ‘
oo nS phat ek oN a bd eee i a aes

> Sa
¥ vee

#9 * 4d ey 8
+ :

eee ee

?

.
:
«<

eee ee ee

st ttl tin hi
es @ees

Pema.
ve apa

«

°
co

+

ej reseae

’ «
eee +2 sa be ° -*
ae’ . ‘

©

a

ae
°
-es 0

Py

*

+
eer

*

Pe Pe ee

anki
oe

.
.

* *
eer ee are ae
. ees ee eee 8

ome
a <e © oe
5

~s 948
es

es
.

*

.

*

eo ee
oe ce @e

se
«

.

¢

rr
eee eee eo es
oes?

eae te 8
ve

oe a
eae rse

oe a

@ 9 + 6 Os oe 8 0 9 ek ee oe
ef a

ecene

.
e

Saeco vee
ec ene eee

os
*
.

oe 68
@
*

*

me

* 25 2 *
we > seep eenee ®
eae oo a en eee

vee oe

arete
LZ
.

*

ar

v2 ev ee eee ee
aasaa

oe
e262 8
oo

.

*
2 8 oe © ©
ees peer eas
¢ 6 eo 6

e?

eceeoneoe
«¢ se oes

rate

7 ©
*

oe
eeaces gece

Boegeoeeoese cer ake ee ees eseenwoe
° e °

oagq wow
ee eee ee neuncaecaentseona ewe o

sos s

oe 2 76 %°,°%
eu eeooe ce sean )
werorusceagye

s eseeune
eeseecrocess O88 o te ote te avatar atatene”

e
.
«

.

ae a eee
eeeecoatacahaga dea n 8 as &
wecaoueneoesuwaenaad cl) s ooo ee 8
eeet woe e a 2 eed
*
os eens
* eve

© 4 @ 0 8 @
aaa a neana
eoen @¢avaneocae
o oe
eae ee
eoeceneceeseaanaa
ee s

SES

oe ®

sees oe an w
eso 0
eas

ee) a6
a6 ae oe ee
eeaennaw ae
Le
ane

e

@
e «
° an
° ahha! %
a : re

Big Sg eRe =