12 ENGLISHSAGA embanked river, the sage Carlyle rode down eighteenth-century lanes to improve his digestion. Here on Saturdays would come bowling by many "a spicy turn-out and horse of mettle and breed," with the little liveried top-hatted tiger swinging on the footboard behind and his gay bachelor master smoking his cheroot and flicking his whip as he sped to his riverside villa, with its fairy-like grounds, cellar of recherche wines, pictures, statues, and "many a gem of vertue." Elegant London of royal Victoria's virgin days where Jullien, the Napoleon of Quadrille, "saucily served Mozart with sauce- piquant". ?&&. Taglioni danced like a spirit in Rossini's newest ballet! For all its ragged hungry urchins, its fever-stricken alleys and crushing poverty, there was still music and gaiety in it. In August, 1842, Mozart's Cost fan tutte was being sung at His Majesty's and Rossini's Semimmide at Covent Garden under the direction of Benedict, while Purcell's King Arthur was rehearsing at Drury Lane and Spohr's new opera, The Fall of Babylon^ at the Hanover Rooms. • •*••••• There was a pastoral quality about the amusements of our great-grandparents. The great summer regattas on the Thames between London Bridge and Hammersmith were attended by paddle steamers with brass bands and boats full of fluttering flags and pretty girls giggling in the sunlight under painted awnings, while the banks were thronged with runners and riders and convivial parties watching from the festooned balconies and gardens of riverside pubs. At Putney Fair were Fat Ladies and Learned Pigs, much "firing of cannon, jollity, shouting, jangling of street pianos and popping of ginger beer," and many a pull at Finch's ale. Every Whit Tuesday the Cockneys went en masse to Greenwich, cargo after cargo going down the river singing and cheering and devouring stout and sandwiches, to sample the traditional delights of the great fair—its rows of booths hung with dolls, gilt gingerbreads and brandy balls, its raree-shows and performing pigs, its giants and its dwarfs. Here prentices and shop boys pushed about with whistles, penny trumpets, false noses and rolled twopenny scrapers—in sound simulating tearing material—down the backs of their elders. And the park was filled with young people and hoydens—playing at kiss-in-the-ring, riding donkeys, or, more simply, tumbling head over heels down the hill.