60 CENTS. a

THE

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK,

CONTAINING

A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS,
THEIR HARBORS, AGRICULTURAL RESOURCES.
PLANTATIONS, SCENERY, VOLCANOES,
CLIMATE, POPULATION,

AND COMMERCE.

BY. ELEN AY ov. “VWeELICANE YS,

EDITOR OF THE HAWATIAN GAZETTE.

,

FIRST EDITION, 4,000 COPIES, /

HONOLULU, H. I.
PUBLISHED BY HENRY M. WHITNEY,

WHITE & BAUER, WASHINGTON S8T., SAN FRANCISCO,
3ORDON & GOTCH, GHORGE ST., SYDNEY.

1875.

iJ

ay

THE

HAWAITAN GUIDE BOOK,

Prev RS"

CONTAINING

A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS,
THEIR HARBORS, AGRICULTURAL RESOURCES,
PLANTATIONS, SCENERY, VOLCANOKS,
CLIMATE, POPULATION,

AND COMMERCE.

BY HENRY M. WHITNEY,

HDITOR OF THE HAWAIIAN GAZETTE,

Oe

FIRST EDITION.

HONOLULU, H. I,
PUBLISHED BY HENRY M. WHITNEY,

1875.

a
L-

PREFACE.

Iy issuing the first edition of this Hand Book, its
author claims no special merit for originality. His
object has been to present in it such information
as travelers require in a hand-book of this descrip-
tion, and at the same time to supply all the facts which
intelligent settlers may wish to know. ‘The more
interesting sketches of our scenery have therefore been
necessarily curtailed. For a more full account of
this group the reader is referred to Jarves’ History,
which is recommended as the most impartial work on

the Islands that has been published.
H, M. W.

Honoxvny, April, 1875.

¥ ON CNC NN aN akan’ a aes
HAWAIIAN GAZETTE PRESS,

Hawanan Cuine Book.

Tue Hawaiian or Sandwich Islands lie in the North
Pacific, stretching from latitude 19° to 23°, and from
west longitude 155° to 161°, about 2080 miles from
San Francisco and 4880 miles from China. The bell-
tower, which is one of the most conspicuous objects in
Honolulu, is in latitude 21° 18’ 23”, and longitude
157° 48’ 45’.* There are twelve islands in the group,
eight of which are inhabited, and the area of the whole
is six thousand square miles. Their names are Hawaii,
Maui, Lanai, Kahoolawe, Molokai, Oahu, Kauai, and
Nithau. Molokini, Lehua, Kaula and Bird Island are
barren rocks. Recent surveys show that they are a
chain of volcanic peaks rising abruptly from a depth of
three miles below the ocean level to a hight three miles
above, making the loftiest summits of Hawaii six miles
above the bed of the Pacific Ocean. They possess the
general attractive characteristics of the tropical Polyne-
sian groups—that perfection of climate and most charm-
ing scenery which suggest to the sea-worn traveler Para-
dise and the Garden of Hden. As seen from the deck

* The spire of the Roman Catholic Church (near the bell-tower) is in N.
Latitude 21° 18” 23/7, W. Longitude 157° 48/ 31/’, the mean of observations
made by Prof, C. §. Lyman, Lieut. Fleuriais and Capt. Tupman. The
Transit of Venus Observatory, (near the Stone Church,) has been located in
WN. Latitude 21° 17’ 56’, W. Longitude 157° 48” 30/7, by Capt, Tupman.

4 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

of a steamer gliding rapidly along their shores, no
scenery can be more picturesque—their mountain tops
enveloped in clouds, or perhaps in winter, wrap-
ped in a mantle of snow; mountain slopes broken into
enormous gulches, fern-clad, tree-clad, green with the
richest summer foliage, and sparkling with numerous
shining waterfalls and streamlets—they present the most
delightful picture imaginable. Approaching nearer to
the land, plantations of golden sugar-cane attract at-
tention at one station; broad fields of velvety pasture-
land, dotted with cattle, transform the solitariness of
another into active life; while groups of cocoanut palms
skirt the white coral shores, under whose shade may be
discovered, with a glass, the primitive dwellings of the
simple natives, themselves strolling on the beach, fish-
ing in the sea, or sporting in the surf.

Vessels approaching Honolulu from the eastward,
generally run along the windward shores of Mani and
Molokai, and pass through the Oahu channel, not open-
ing the harbor till abreast of Diamond Head. As soon
as they are observed in the channel, often twenty-five
miles from port, they are telegraphed by the watchman
at the signal station on the ridge back of Diamond
Head, so that the pilot meets them between the har-
bor entrance and the above headland.

The approach to Honoluln, as the steamer passes, the
remarkable promontory called Diamond Head, and
opens to view the extensive cocoanut groves of Waikiki,
its pretty cottages dotting the shore, the shipping and
the city almost buried in foliage in the distance, with the
lofty background of serrated mountains and near fore-
ground of wind-combed, snow-crested breakers, curling

co
1 : H
LA

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOR. 5

many miles to the westward, is exceedingly picturesque,
and will never be forgotten by a stranger. The sudden
change of the ocean color is a peculiar feature in this
beautiful scene, the land rising so abruptly that the
ocean retains its dark blue tint within a mile or less
of the shore, and passes most rapidly through all shades
of the marine spectrum. Nowhere around the group
is a vessel approaching the land in the daytime in any
danger until the breakers are plainly visible, when it is
time to call a pilot or heave the lead. The depth of wa-
ter in the channels between the islands is two miles.

The Honolulu roadstead, accessible at all times, and
safe during most of the year, has good anchorage in
from 13 to 18 fathoms. It is always safe except in-a
Fone or South Storm, which rarely occurs except dur-
ing the winter months, from December to March, The
anchorage is designated by a buoy, about half a mile to
windward, or south-east, of the entrance to the harbor:
This buoy is in latitude 21° 16’ 56”, longitude 157° 49”
ol”, and lies in 184 fathoms of water.

The channel, which ought never to be taken, even by
a war vessel, without a pilot, is a narrow passage through
the coral reef, averaging 550 feet in width, by three-
quarters of a mile in length, from the spar-buoy to the
light-house. This light may be seen from a steamer’s
deck eight miles off. There are 22 feet of water on the
bar at mid tide, the rise and fall being about thirty
inches, twice each day. Sailing vessels are gener-
ally towed into the harbor by a government steam-tug,
whose charges vary from thirty to seventy-five dollars,
according to the tonnage of the vessel. On leaving port,
vessels seldom have to wait for a wind, as the trades

blow fresh and fair nine months of the year.
1*

6 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

HONOLULU,

The commercial emporium of the Hawaiian Islands,
is located on the south side of Oahu, four miles from
Diamond Head. It is the capital of the Kingdom,
the seat of government and residence of the King, the
largest and only place im the group deserving the name
of city. Here the traveler lands, and here receives his
first impressions of Hawaii and the Hawaiians. Asa de-
pot for trade, it possesses great advantages as the key
of the Northern Pacific, and the ocean half-way-house
of North America and Asia, California and the New
World of Australia and New Zealand. Its harbor is
small, but perfectly safe, and will easily accommodate
one hundred vessels. Its wharves, of which it possesses
_ a frontage of over three thousand feet, are not surpassed
in any port, being built mostly of solid stone. Hvery
vessel that can cross the bar can lay alongside of these
wharves, where the facilities for loading and discharg-
ing cargoes are equal to those of any port of America
or Hurope. It is no exaggeration to state that from
500 to 600 tons of general cargo can be handled, if nec-
essary, during twenty-four hours. The Custom House
and public store-houses, built of coral and fully fire-
proof, are located within an hundred yards of the steam-
boat wharf and connect with it by tramways. Indeed,
nothing has been omitted on the part of the government
and the merchants of the port, to provide every possible
facility for the convenience of shipping and commerce.

All passengers who land at this port, whether to re-
main permanently or only a few weeks, are required to
obtain a permit to land their baggage, and also to pay a
fee of two. dollars towards the support of the Queen’s

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 7

Hospital, an institution maintained for the joint benefit
of foreigners and Hawaiians. Passengers in transitu,
who leave in the vessel in which they arrive, or who
remain not over thirty days, do not pay this or any other
government tax. All merchandize importations are re-
quired to pay a duty, mostly ten per cent. ad valorem
and must be regularly entered at the customs, the pen-
alty for failure being seizure and confiscation, not alone
of the merchandise, but also of the vessel in which it
was brought.

Two hours after a steamer is telegraphed, if in the
daytime, or after her rockets are seen, if at night, she
reaches the dock,—sufficient time to give notice of her
arrival, to attract a large crowd of sight-see-ers, and
bring out carriages and expresses, drays and handcarts
to convey passengers and baggage to the Hotel or pri-
vate residences.

THE HAWAIIAN HOTEL.

This elegant establishment, on which so much of the
pleasure of a yisit to Honolulu and the Hawaiian Islands
depends, was erected in 1871 by the joint expenditure of
the citizens and the government, in answer to a deeply
felt want and a constant public demand for a first class
hotel. It was opened for the accommodation of guests
early in 1872, and no better kept public house can be
found in any port of the Pacific. A view of the build-
ing is given in the frontispiece.

The hotel proper, not including out-buildings, is 120
by 90 feet, is built of concrete stone, is three stories in
height, and is surrounded by broad airy verandas,
Hach story is abundantly high to give free circulation

8 HAWAILAN GUIDE BOOK,

of fresh air through all the rooms, halls and parlors.
The accompanying plan of the main floor of the hotel
affords a proximate idea of the arrangement of the

rooms.

Veranda.
Veranda.

\

Front
Entrance

Entrance Hall.

Back Stairs,

Pantry. |

Q)

Veranda.:
Veranda.

Hall.

75 x 32
Dining

The location could not have been bettered in Hono-
lulu, and is a genuine tropical gem. The premises

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 9

cover an acre of ground, which is shaded by so many
fine trees, as to merit the appellation of tree-garden, com«
municating with every street on the block. When illu-
minated at night with flaming torches and Chinese
lanterns for an out-door concert, and when crowded with
- people and the gay colors which the Hawaiian ladies love
to display, the picture equals the enchanted descriptions
of the Arabian Nights. The royal palace, the new Par-
liament House, the public square, where the really ad-
mirable Hawaiian band plays every Saturday, and the
churches of different denominations, are all within a few
minutes walk, while the wharves, Custom House, Post
Office, business houses and Consulates can be reached in
four or five minutes. What more could be desired ?

The entrance to the Hotel, both in front and rear,
is by massive stone stairways, protected by iron
railing, that add to the. imposing appearance of the
building. The visitor, on reaching the top of the
ascent, finds himself under the broad veranda, which
is supported by wooden pillars, with a promenade
of the whole front before him. He finds the office on
his left as he enters the cool hall, where a courteous at-
tendant is always waiting to supply his wants, answer
his questions, and aid in making him comfortable and at
home.

The hotel contains forty-two sleeping rooms, and will
accommodate from sixty to ninety guests, who will find
the furniture all new, having been imported expressly
for it. The beds are provided with springs, and the
best of hair mattrasses and linen. ‘The other fixtures
are such as a long experience in tropical climate has
proved best adapted to promote the comfort and happi-

10 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

ness of the guests. Hvyery room is connected with the
office where is placed a Will & Frink Annunciator, con-
sidered the best in use. Water from the government
pipes is laid on, and carried to every room in the build-
ing. Bath-rooms, with both cold and warm water, and
water-closets, are provided on each floor.

The entire building is lighted with gas, manufactured
on the premises in a large machine furnished by the Pa-
cific Pneumatic Gas Co. Upwards of two hundred
burners are provided, and this has proved the safest and
most economical mode of lighting the building.

The hotel parlor is a spacious room, 30 by 32 ft. lo-
cated in the southern extremity of the main floor of the
house. It is handsomely furnished with black walnut
furniture of the’ most approved pattern, and is carpeted
with elegant Brussels, making with its surroundings, a
very pleasant reception room.

The dining room occupies the whole of the north
wing. It has at the west end, a compartment that may
be included or closed fora private diningroom. The di-
mensions of this spacious hall, are 75 by 32 feet, and
one hundred and eighty guests can be accommodated
in it.

The kitchen is in the basement, and is a model of
economy in its way. Itis furnished with a first class
French cooking range, capable, with a small supply of
fuel, of rapidly cooking meals for five hundred people.
A dumb waiter connects it with the dining room. Near-
by is the store-room, with its large, convenient refriger-
ator, where fresh meats, vegetables and all perishable
articles of a tropical cuisine, are kept in perfect order.

The Billiard Hall is under the dining room in the

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 11

north wing of the basement. It is of the same size as
the room above, is cool, airy and very attractive, and
contains at the east end a bar and card table.

Three of Strahle & Co’s finest billiard tables, made of
choice California laurel oak, furnished with Delany’s
patent cushions and other late improvements, occupy the
hall. No better tables are made in any part of the
world, and the proprietor has spared and will spare no
expense to render this part of the establishment a popu-
lar resort to the lovers of the game.

The Hawaiian Hotel was leased by Mr. Allan Herbert
early in 1872. He has done everything in his power to
make it all that the most exacting could demand, and has
omitted nothing that can increase its reputation as a first-
class hotel. The department of cuisine in a new country
is always difficult to manage. When Mr. Herbert took
charge, he found it nearly impossible to supply his tables
with variety sufficient to please. But after becoming
acquainted with the Chinese gardeners, and those natives
and foreigners who deal in poultry, fish and game, milk,
butter and eggs, fruits, vegetables, &c., and after in-
structing them how to produce and prepare for market,
and deliver in good order what he might require, he has
so systematized this department, that any time he can call
for and obtain in quantities to suit, anything he needs.
He pays one gardener over a thousand dollars a year,
and expends a much larger sum for fruits. To be sure
of a constant supply of poultry and eggs, he sustains a
ranch at, Kalihi, where he maintains a stock of fowls,
ducks, turkeys, geese, and pigs, buying them as offered,
keeping on hand and fattening fer the table. A good

12 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

idea of his success may be obtained from the following
bill-of fare: *

Fiso—Soft-shell crabs, Pacific Ocean lobsters, mullet,
bonita, dolphin, flying-fish and some twenty varieties
of tropical fish in their seasons.

Mzats—Beef, mutton, pork and all kinds of poultry.

Vncerastes—lrish and sweet potatoes, beans, toma-
toes, corn, beets, cabbage, carrots, radishes, onions, tur
nips, squash, egg-plant, cucumbers, taro, bread-fruit,
yams, &c.

Fruitr—Strawberries, grapes, guavas, oranges, pine-
apples, bananas, mangoes, pohas or cape gooseberries;
papaias, melons, ohias, dec.

These articles of food may be obtained at nearly all
seasons, or in such variety as to satisfy any reasonable
guest. The proprietor always provides his table with
every meat, vegetable, and fruit the market affords.
Fresh island butter, eggs and milk are served in abund-
ance, and ice manufactured in the city is daily supplied,
while no purer water can be found than that which flows
through the government pipes, from the clear mountain
streams and reservoirs of Nuuanu Valley.

Mr. Herbert has in addition provided a cottage at the
gea-shore at Waikiki some three miles distant, where
guests can go and spend the day, or merely enjoy a
morning or evening bath in the ocean. This great lux-
ury will be appreciated by many besides invalids. The
coach of the eStablishment will make as many trips as
called for to this pleasant sea-side resort, and saddle
horses may be provided at short notice, by leaving or-
ders at the office. Besides all this, when the steamers

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 13

are in port, occasional open-air concerts are given, when
the hotel grounds are illuminated, the balconies and
walks thrown open to the public, and Berger’s brass
band of twenty-four pieces discourses its favorite Ha-
wallan and foreign airs.

Probably no building in Honolulu was ever built
more faithfully than this hotel, whose every part was
constructed with a view to strength and permanence.
Its roof is covered with the best English slate. From
the cupola an excellent view may be had of the city em-
bowered in trees, the mountain valleys, the plain and the
ocean stretching from Diamond Head to the Waianae
mountains, twenty-five or thirty~miles distant to the
north-west. Very few views in Honolulu surpass it,
save, perhaps, that from the Bell Tower, the new Gov-
ernment House or from Punch Bowl Hill. The total
cost of this inter-oceanic hotel (and it must be remem-
bered that Honolulu is a place with but 3000 foreign in-
habitants) was not far front $150,000.

Tourists in pursuit of health or the most delightful
tropical climate and scenery: men of business as well
as men of leisure, can have no excuse for delaying
their visits to this historie group or passing by the port
for lack of suitable accommodations. None who come,
ever regret the excursion, be the stay one month or six.
Those who propose remaining at the hotel longer than a
day or two, should always engage their rooms, if possi-
ble, before arrival, as the house is sometimes crowded.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THE CITY.

Attractive as is the appearance of the port and its

surroundings, as seen from the ship’s deck while ap-
2

14 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

proaching and entering the harbor, the stranger is exci-
ted and amused with the novel sights and scenes that
meet him at every new turn in the Anglo-Hawaiian city
of Honolulu. The bright eyes, intelligent faces and
light dress of the native race strike him curiously and
pleasantly before he leaves the deck, The mixed crowd
from eyery nation under the sun, that throngs the
wharf, the peculiarity of some of the vehicles, the coral,
fruit, gold-fish and shell peddlers, the Babel jargon of
French, German, Portuguese and the aboriginal lan-
guage, prove that he is in a new land; while the pon-
derous coral stone warehouses, walls and stores, sure
tokens of civilization, assure him that he is not abso-
lutely in a new world and alone. The streets are of
macadamized coral, black lava stone and sand; in the
city and vicinity well graded and smooth, forming fine
carriage drives. The streets near the wharves, being
without trees, are at midday hot and uninviting ; but
farther away from the business centre, the residences
of native and foreign inhabitants may be found, where
beautiful foliage is seen, such as exists only in similar
lands; trees, the beauty of whose foliage, flowers and
fruit cannot fail to arrest the attention of the most
eareless. A few are indigenous, such as the cocoa-nut
palm, the lauhala or screw palm, the breadfruit, the
ohia or native apple, the koa, the hau, and the kukui
or candle-nut tree; but many of the handsomer trees
have been introduced from foreign countries, and have
grown into magnificent stature within the past quarter
century. Among these are the mango, opulent in fruit,
the tamarind, the Chinese orange and the sweet orange,
the lime, the alligator pear, the citron, the custard ap-

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 15

ple, the fig, the coffee, bananas, papaias, peaches, date-
palms, magnolias, algarobas, and samang or monkey-
pod, wonderful in its profusion of flowers and the
regularity with which it folds its sensitive leaves to
sleep. Also several varieties of acacia, the eucalyptus
of Australia, the brilliant ponciana regia, Norfolk and
Caledonia pines, the royal and fan-palms, the Indian
banyan, the bamboo, the loquot and Chinese plum, with
_ the pepper, cinnamon and spice trees.

Almost concealed by the foliage of these trees and
shrubs are the dwelling houses, each with its garden,
containing plants and flowers in great variety. In ad-
dition to the more common kinds will be found Japanese
and Micronesian lilies, crape myrtle, the alamander,
blooming creepers, the passion flower, Mexican vine,
and indeed: the flora of nearly every country under the
sun is represented in these isles of the sea. Among
the more showy of the creepers is the Bourgainvillia,
with its brillant crimson clusters, which, in the spring,
will attract attention of strangers, and forms a notice-
able feature in Honolulu. The dwellings of the foreign
residents are constructed either of stone or wood and
surrounded with verandas. Water is brought in iron
pipes to every house, thus conferring upon all the peo-
ple that greatest of luxuries in a hot climate—abundant,
pure water. The poorest can enjoy his daily bath and
cultivate flowers and vegetables about his home. Hyery
day of every month in the year one can feast his eyes
on roses, lilies and a legend of floral gems, unsurpassed
in variety elsewhere.

Honolulu contains a population, by the census of
1872, of 14,852. Of this total, less than 3,000 are for-
eigners. The native population is very movable.

16 HAWAITAN GUIDE BOOK.
GOVERNMENT.

The city is under the direct watch, ward and control
of the King and his advisers, of whom the following is
the register of the court, cabinet, judiciary and ‘princi-
pal government officers:

THE COURT.

His Masesty Tue Kine, born November 16th, 1836; elected Feb-
ruary 12, 1874, and inaugurated February 18, 1874. Son of
Kapaakea and Keohokalole.

Her Magesty KAPIOLANI, Queen Consort.

Her Majesty Queen Dowager Emma, relict of His Majesty Alexan-
der Liholiho, Kamehameha LY.

His Royal Highness, Wini1am P, LeLeronoxu, Heir Apparent—
Brother to the King—born January 10, 1855.

Her Royal Highness Lypra K. Dominis, sister to the King.

Her Royal Highness Mintam L. CLEGHORN, sister to the King.

His Royal Highness CHARLES KANAINA, father of the late King
LUNALILO.

Her Royal Highness Ruta KEELIKOLANI, sister to Their.late Maj-
esties Kamehameha LY. and VY.

THE KING’S CABINET.

Minister of Foreign Affairs..-........ ..s.0- His Ex. W. L. Green.
Minister of Interior....... Br eeah ee ae His Ex. W. L. Moehonua.
AVES Per OL MIM Cem. eecerereng ttelen side aette His Ex. John 8. Walker.
Attorney Generals. cin. . tennessee + are 6 His Ex. Richard H. Stanley.

PRIVY COUNCIL OF STATE.

-H, R. H. Wm. P. Leleiohoku, H. R. A. Chas. Kanaina, their Ex-
cellencies W. L. Green, W. L. Mochonua, J. 8. Walker, R. H.
Stanley, J. O. Dominis, P. Kanoa, J. M. Kapena.

Honorables Elisha H. Allen, C. C. Harris, A. F. Judd, E. O. Hall,
Chas. R. Bishop, P. Nahaolelua, H. A. Widemann, H. A. Ka-
bann; J. Mott Smith, 8. N. Castle, Godfrey Rhodes, 8, P. Ka-
lama, J. W. Makalena, 8. G. Wilder, Henry M. Whitney, A. 8.
Cleghorn, J. Moanauli, H. A. P. Carter, E. H. Boyd, J. A.
Cummins, W. C. Parke, J. U. Kawainui, W, P. Wood, R. Stir-
liog, W. J. Smith.

Secretary,....... Sat ece Serres ee tisia OIE St din wale Hon. E. H. Boyd.

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 17.

SUPREME COURT.

Chief Justice and Chancellor........ fan esce ye. One Hy, A. Allen.
First Associate Justice..... Raters tseetetyy ate nage ares Hon. C. C. Harris.
Becond Agsociave Gushice: ve cck ow elecaivar aececees Hon. A. F. Judd.
lenis cere Seite sels. nies W. R. Seal. | Deputy Clerk....J. E. Barnard.
GOVERNMENT OFFICERS.
Governor of Hawaii........ Jie aks Rin ct neners sae His Ex. 8. Kipi, Hilo.
Governor of Oahu.............. His Ex. J. O. Dominis, Honolulu.
Governorof Maui. «ances ees cers His Ex. J. M. Kapena, Lahaina.
GOVErno-OMMAUAL, cen cerc ese wate e es His Ex. P. Kanoa, Nawiliwili.
Collector General of Customs. ...........-e2ee0e Col. W. F. Allen,
Deputy Collector........ Lah atarsieeta eh eee J. A. Hassinger.
BOBEMASTers Generally sics8ta.5 3043 ajaptmadeateld sie Helatacele A. P. Brickwood.
Hirst: ClerkeyPost: OMicers tun Mees aes ccleuiesc Pee aces I. B. Peterson.
Marshal of the Hawaiian Islands..... Head Hate ens Wm, OC. Parke.
Perr tye MTS OAL oes, cla aieicle teretemtete science anion Ae David Dayton.
DEP OLeALbORNG YWo-en Cie cal koe taclealtle «la stcute o/s 015 5 L. McCully.
Water Supervisor & Clerk of Market...... Sia teswttls Ate H. Prendergast.
Registrar of Conveyances....5..ceescncscenecucces Thomas Brown.
Secretary of Interior Department................- Chas. T. Gulick.
Ass't. Secretary Interior Department.............. F. W. Beckley.
Secretary of Foreign Office.......... “EERE eo a aad Wm. Jarrett.
Registrar of Public Accounts. .......0...-cnccesceeves J. O. Carter.
Police Justice of Honolulu............ Peet tecse ee cies W. C. Jones,
IPolieerbistices of Muahsinaes: case on 2 co sees lemic« H. Dickenson, Sen.
A ONIGSrUIBLICesON EMLOrte niet shir ts sels cals vie vel etree L. Kaina.
dailor of Oahu Prison........ Be eielatbl esd fexebaarcleters seatgiat eete tes D. K, Fyfe.
Sheriff of Hawaii...... settee ap atets oper eyietabe ra cir raare L. Seyerance, Hilo.
Sheriff of Mani............. fe Rig lant weet ate T. W. Everett, Lahaina.
Sheriff of Kauai........... Suetal vel oe) shone sete 8. W. Wilcox, Nawiliwili.
Physician Insane Asylum......... deel saree ale .G. Trousseau, M. D.
Physician Kalibi Leper Hospital...... ao hentest G. Trousseau, M. D.
POREGENVSICIAns | eLOMO UN tne een eeo’eyele tee ote G. Trousseau, M. D.
Harbor Master of Honolulu............ese0-08 Capt. Daniel Smith.
Pilots..... Thee ebbtarereoess deta Capts. A. McIntyre and Wm. Babcock.
Road Supervisor and Tax Collector. ........ arnt Geo. H. Luce.
Surveyor General, Honolulu.............. Prof. W. D. Alexander.
Port Surveyor and Guard.......esseesseececerses W. A. Markham.

The members of the cabinet and most of the govern-
ment officers have public offices in the new Parliament
2*

18 HAWAITAN G UIDE BOOK.

House on King Street, opposite the palace grounds.
Persons desiring introduction to the King should apply
to the representatives of their several nations, who will
be able to secure a presentation for those that have
proper credentials. The following are the diplomatic
and consular representatives :

United States—Minister Resident, His Ex. Henry A. Peirce; resi-
dence, Judd Street.

England—Commissioner and Consul General, Major J. H. Wode-
honse; residence Makiki, 11g miles southeast of Honolulu.
France—Consul and Commissioner, Mons. Theo. Ballien; resi-

dence, corner Beretania and Punch-bow] Streets.
France—M. Pernet, Chancelier.

FOREIGN. CONSULS.

United States—Honolulu............-200 mo Mtelerete sac James Scott.
United States—Honolulu—Vice Consul.......... Wm. H, Peebles.
United States—Hilo—Commercial Agent,.......... Thos. Spencer.
United States—Honolulu—Nayal Pay Inspector..... Ed. C. Doran.
England—Honolulu—Vice Consul..............- Theo. H. Davies.
ATES CIA ELON OLU Ws aie e:sincesteciecineren es we SER AL ET: E. Hoffmann.
Netherlands and Belyium—Honolulu................- F. Banning.
Italy—Honolulu........-...-. ON AE AS A F. A. Schaefer.
Whrke—H on olules oyht Feta sae Saeed JL Melee tects dee C. 8. Bartow.
Peru—Honolulu......-..0.. e005 (Acting) Alexander J. Cartwright.
Germaty—Honolulns 51.4000. eee svaake us (Acting) J. C. Glade,
Sweden and Norway—Honolulu............. (Acting) J. C. Glade.
Denmark—Honolulu.............0.000- (Acting) H. R. Macfarlane.
Russia—Honolulu—Vice Consul........... (Acting) J. W. Pfluger.

These representatives of the leading nations of the
world, maintain the national honor in a manner most
creditable to the sovereign and the people they repre-
sent. They extend to every traveler from their native
land, the cordial greeting of home, the right-hand of
fellowship, timely aid in cases of want or distress, and
the protection of the national flag. Their offices are

*

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 19

located in various parts of the city. At any time, by
inquiring at the hotel office, directions may be obtained
or a guide secured, either to their dwellings or offices.

PLACES OF WORSHIP.

Strangers will always find a welcome to the services
of any of the churches, of which the following is a list.
The two first mentioned are conducted in the native
language:

Kawaiahao (Congregational) Church, corner of King and Punch-
bow! Streets; Rev. H. H. Parker; Pastor, Services in Hawai-
jan every Sunday at 101g A. M., and at 3 P. M.

Kaumakapili (Congregational) Church, Beretania Street, near Ma-
unakea; Rev. M. Kauea, Pastor. Services in Hawaiian every
Sunday at 101g A. M., and at 71g P. M.

Bethel Chureh,; corner of King and Bethel Streets; Rev. 8. C. Da-
mon, D. D., Pastor and Seamen’s Chaplain. Services every
Sunday at 11 A. M.; Sunday School meets one hour before the
morning service.

Fort Street (Congregational) Church, corner of Fort and Beretania
Streets; Rey. W. Frear, Pastor. Services every Sunday at 11
A. M. and 724 P. M.; Sunday School meets one hour before the

_ morning service,
Roman Catholic Church, Fort Street, near Beretania; Rt. Rey. L.
Maigret, Lord Bishop of Arathea; Rey. Abbe Modesteand Rev.

Father Hermann, assisting. Services every Sunday at 6 and at
10 A, M. and at 44g P. M.

Episcopal Church, Emma Square; Rt. Rey. Bishop of Honolulu
Officiating, assisted by Rey. A. Macintosh and Rev. D. Dunne.
Services in English every Sunday at 614 and 11 AM., and at
246 and 714 P.M. Services in Hawaiian every Sunday at 9 A.
M. and 33g P. M. Sunday School meets one hour before Eng-
lish morning service.

Honolulu Lyceum, corner of Nuuanu and Kukui Streets. Reli-

gious services Occasionally Sunday eveniug, at 714 o’clock. No
settled Pastor.

20 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

LODGES.

Le Progres de ’Oceanie, A. F. @ A. M.; meets on King St., on the
Jast Monday in each month.

Hawaiian, No. 21, F. & A. M.; meets in Makee’s Block, on the
first Monday in each month,

Honolulu Royal Arch Chapter; meets in the kall of Le Progres de
POceanie, every third Thursday of each month.

Honolulu Commandery No. 1, Knights Templar; meets at the
Lodge Room of Le Progres de l’Oceanie, every second Thurs-
day of each month.

Kamehameha Lodge of Perfection; meets in the Hall of Le Pro-
gres de l’Oceanie, every fourth Thursday of each month.

Excelsior No, 1, I. O. of O. F.; meets at the hall in Odd Fellows’
Building, on Fort St., every Tuesday evening.

Polynesian Eucampment No. 1, I. O. of O. F.; meets at Odd Fel-
lows’ Hall, first and third Fridays of each month.

Oahu No. 1, K. of P.; meets on Hotel Street every Thursday eve-
ning.

Ultima Thule, No.1, 1. O. of G. T.; meets on King Street every
Tuesday evening.

Queen Emma, No. 2, I. O. of G. T.; Lodge meets on King Street,
every Monday evening.

Visiting members of these different organizations will
find in Honolulu, that fellowship that becomes the law
of their order, and a cordial welcome will always await
traveling brothers who may visit Honolulu. ;

PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS.

Tun Insane Agyium, located in Kapalama, about two
miles north of the city, is supported chiefly by the gov-
ernment, and ample provision is made for all who suffer
from temporary or permanent insanity. It is under the
medical care of Dr. G. Trousseau, and the management
of Mr. A. B. Davidson. The number of patients varies
from twenty-five to forty, and they comprise not only
Hawaiians but natives of other countries.

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 21

Tue Oanu JAIL is a substantial coral stone structure
located at Leleo, a short walk northerly from the Post
Office and in full view from the harbor. Here are kept
most of the criminals sentenced for offences committed
in any part of the group. The number varies from
eighty to one hundred. Most of them are sentenced to
hard labor and are employed on the roads, or other goy-
ernment service. ‘This state prison is one of the best
kept institutions to be found in any country, and is well
worth a visit from those interested in prison discipline,
Té is under the immediate supervision of Marshal W. C.
Parke and Jailor D. K. Fyfe, whose management has
tended greatly to its efficiency.

TH QuzEn’s Hospitat at the foot of Punch Bowl Hill,
was erected in 1860, chiefly by the efforts of Kine
Kamrnamnua TV, and named after Queen Emma. Itis
a well kept institution under the supervision of Dr.
Rob’t. McKibbin, Physician, and Mr. T. Toel, manager.
It has usually about one hundred patients, including
Hawaiians and foreigners.

THE ParRLiAMeEnt Houss, called Atttonant Hats, erect-
ed in 1872-3, is located on King street, nearly opposite
the palace grounds. It contains the hall of the legislative
assembly, and is the headquarters of all the government
officers, including the ministers, judges, governor, bu-
reau of public instruction, marshal and police, hall of
records, public library, museum, etc. It is one of the
finest public buildings any country can boast of, in pro-
portion to the population and resources, and admirably
serves the purpose for which it was erected.

Tue Rerormatory Scoot, established for the refor-
mation of juvenile delinquents, is located at Kapalama,

99 HAWAIAN GUIDE BOOK.

one mile north of the city. It is presided over by Mr.
George H. Dole, and is under the general supervision of
the Board of Education. Thenumber of juveniles in it
varies from 50 to 75, all of whom receive instruction in
the elementary branches and in manual labor.

THE SCHOOLS,

In this kingdom, are supported chiefly by the government,
which expends annually about $40.000 in sustaining
them. very district is provided with schools and teach-
ers, where all who choose can receive instruction in the
common branches, and it 1s a noteworthy fact that a
Hawaiian who cannot, at least, read and write, is rarely
to be found. Besides the common schools, there are
higher seminaries and boarding schools, in which both
the vernacular and English languages are taught.
There are a total of 242 schools and 7755 scholars in
the kingdom. Honolulu is well provided with select
English schools where natives and foreigners can obtain
a good academical education. Among theseis Punahou
School, established thirty years since, and situated about
two miles east of the town, in an exceedingly healthy
location.

WHAT TO SEE, AND WHERE TO GO.

The stranger, after settling himself in comfortable
quarters, next seeks something to see or do, and asks
what has Honolulu worth seeing ?

We say, go to the “pali,”’* for a view which cannot be
surpassed in California even, or to Kalihi Valley for a
sight of the banana orchards, that send hundreds of

——

* Hawaiian for “ precipice’’ or ** palisade.’’

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 23

bunches away by every steamér: go to Punch Bowl Hill
for a tropical picture that has few superiors in the world;
or if you are a climber and desire a larger horizon, see
the same from the summit of Round Top; or reaching
still higher, overlook the whole from Tantalus, a peak
directly in the rear of Punch Bowl Hill; or if a
member of the Alpine Club, try the rock cliffs of the bar-
rier mountains, that send their helmets into the windy
clouds. Gotothe valleys of Nuuanu, Pauoa, Paloloand
Manoa, go to the sea-shore and cocoanut groves at Wai-
kiki. Take a horseback ride by moonlight around Dia-
mond Head, returning by the telegraph station. Go
around the island on foot, on horse, or in a carriage,
either by the way of Waianae, Koolau and the pali, or
take a shorter and rougher ride by way of Coco Head,
Waimanalo, Kaneohe, and the Pali.

THE NUUANU PALI.

Six miles back of Honolulu, at the abrupt head of Nun-
anu valley, is a precipice remarkable among the most re-
markable wonders of nature. It affords, in one view, @
picture of wild, natural scenery, that of its kind is unri-
valled in the known world. The mountains, that from
the Honolulu ocean verge, rise from the sea level to a
height of 4000 feet, do not descend in sober mountain
fashion to the north side, but are cleft in tyro, one half
left standing, the other gone, no one knows whither.
Nowhere is the perpendicular rock less than 800 feet
deep ; in many places the bold front is thrice this appal-
ling depth. Below are plains and hills, rolling prairies
on a small scale, containing sugar and rice plantations,
grazing ranches, extinct craters, ete. At the water's

94 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

edge may be seen fish ponds and a fine bay, beyond are
the rugged breakers and the barrier reef to an ocean,
that has no other shores to wash until it reaches distant
North America, .

The road to the pali from Honolulu, ascending all the
way, is excellent for carriages as well as horsemen.
After leaving the hotel, the traveler enters Nuuanu Val-
ley, most beautiful among the valleys of Oahn, and pro-
ceeds by a broad ascent towards the heart of the island.
On either hand are cottages and flower gardens. Some
new tropical tree or creeper or fruit or flower may be
discovered each succeeding moment. After crossing the
Nuuanu stream the ascent becomes perceptible and the
valley begins to contract. Here we see the burial
grounds, where many are laid who have died far from
home and kin, A little beyond, on the right, stands
the Royal Mausoleum, a gothic structure of stone, which
contains the remains of all the Hawaiian Kings and also
of many of the high chiefs who have died since the con-
quest. The grounds are well kept and the stranger will
see in these cemeteriey much to remind him of older civ-
ilization.

As the traveler proceeds, his attention will be drawn
to the patches, where is grown the Hawaiian staff of
life, the taro, cultivated in mud and water. It pro-
duces a root, which is baked in the earth, then pounded
to paste which is called poi, and forms the principal ar-
ticle of food for the natives. This is the aruwm esculen-
tum of the botanists, and in some localities is cultivated
on the upland.

A mile from the cemeteries the country residence of

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 25

Queen Dowager Emmia is situated. Thence on, the val-
ley loses its civilized appearance, the rugged mountain
draws its steep cliffs nearer, and lines of fences grow
crooked and at length disappear altogether.

This valley is classic ground in Hawaiian history.
Here was fought the last-of seven decisive battles by the
Napoleonic Kamehameha, victories that made him sole
monarch and established his dynasty. On the rocky
slopes of these impregnable mountains, the natives, with
club and rock and spear resisted the hordes of the inva-
der, fighting vainly but well, for wife, child and native
land, and at last were driven headlong over the pali.
Here fell Kaiana, rival of Kamebameha, disputing with
war club and spear, every foot of the conqueror’s pro-
gress. It is a lonely and romantic spot, worthy of the
death-strugele of brave and knightly warrior chiefs of
the ancient time. b

Nuuanu Valley narrows from the width of a mile at
its entrance to a few hundred yards at the pali. The ~
mountains on either side rise up in lofty turrets or pin-
nacles which are lost in a cap of clouds. The wind, at
times, draws through this gap with tremendous force.
The carriage should be left in the plateau below. The
visitor-Gan stand on the parapet of the precipice, which
is protected by an iron railing, for here is the only prac-
ticable descent over the mountains to the windward side
of the island, and the government has hewn, from the
basaltic rock, a safe road after the plan of an Alpine pass,
leading to the base of the precipice, over which horge-
men and footmen may be seen constantly passing.
This trip to the pali can be easily accomplished in three
hours, or less, perhaps, if the traveler is limited in time,

3

26 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.
WAIKIKI.

The cocoanut grove of Waikiki is only four miles
from the hotel and the road excellent. This was the
residence of the ancient kings of Oahn, as well as of
Kamehameha the Great, after the conquest, and before
the discovery of Honolulu harbor. During the sum-
mer months it has been the residence of the more re-
cent kings. The grove once numbered 10,000 trees.
Many have died, and many been cut down for timber
and posts, while others have been destroyed by a species
of caterpillar. The beach, which seaward skirts the
grove, is a famous resort for bathing. |

COCO HHAD.

The ride to this southernmost poimt of Oahu, ten
miles from the hotel, must be performed on horseback.
The road lies past the telegraph station, and through
several little villages and cocoanut groves. This is an
extinet crater and is flanked by a beautiful cove, where
tropical fishes are usually abundant. Returning, take
the road along the beach and around Diamond Head,

thus traversing the battle ground of Waialae, where —

Kamehameha fought his first battle with the King of
Oahu—a sanguinary fight, in which thousands of war-
riors were slain, whose bodies were buried in the sand
near the beach. Skulls have been frequently found
here and hundreds carried off as relics. This battle
was fought in 1790 or ’91.

FERNS,

In great variety, may be found in our valleys by those
in search of specimens of tropical vegetation. He who

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 24

can climb will be richly rewarded in their beauty and
variety. At the head of Palolo Valley is an extinct
crater, in which grow both ferns and flowers. The
traveler should leave his horse at the head of the val-
ley, climb up 400 or 500 feet to the crater, in shape
like an oblong bowl, where he can readily secure an as~-
sortment of ferns. About one hundred and twenty
kinds are found on this gronp, some of which are very
rare and choice, and found in no other country.
HOLIDAYS

Form a striking feature of Hawaiian life. Saturday 4
afternoon is the gala time of the natives. Business
ends for the week at 4: o’clock, when mechanics and la-
borers receive their wages. To ride seems the grand
idea. of the natives, and mounted on horses, mules or
jackasses, saddled or bareback, bridled or tethered, they
gallop up one street and rush down another, whisking
around corners, skillfully avoiding collision with equally
reckless riders, and giving pedestrians numberléss hair-
breadth escapes. The observer at the corner.of Nuu-
anu and King Streets will see in one half hour the
same parties ride by three or four times, having made
the cireuit of the town as many times and always at a
headlong pace, making street crossing dangerous. In
a short space of time one may here count a thousand
equestrians. The women are most conspicuous in their
gay dresses and wreaths of vines or flowers, and riding
astride they manage their horses with masculine energy
and skill, until the shades of evening put an end to
their sport, or halting at some unlucky moment they
are arrested for fast riding, and they end one week and
begin another in the police station, unless some maka-

98 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

maka (friend) steps forward with the six dollars bail,
which they willingly forfeit.

The holiday enjoyment is not confined to the natives.
Here is a group of mechanics, American, English and
German, good specimens of the restless race who pene-
trate to the ends of the earth, garments toil stained
possibly, but with pleasant faces and the dollars jingling
in their pockets. There come groups of the mixed race,
offspring of intermarriage of foreigners with natives.
They possess the traits of the two races, speak Hng-
lish as well as Hawaiian, and form a most important
and rapidly increasing part of the population. A few
more years may find them masters of the land, as the
natives are fast passing away. Yonder whirls a mer-
chant, with his London or New York turn out and his
imported nag. His week’s work too is done, and bid-
ding adieu to ledgers and bills of exchange, he seeks
the free,air of Nuuanu or the plains of Waikiki.

Here are sailors out of their proper element and full
of an improper one, their feet well home in the stirrup,
both hands holding on to the pommel of the saddle as
if it were a tiller, while the rudderless animal goes
blundering and shying in every direction. There a
jabbering Chinaman with his handcart, will not get out
of the way ; an old native woman comes leading her pig
with a rope that stretches half across the road ; a quaint
vehicle turns out the wrong way ; while the dust stirred
up by the numerous horsemen, is so thick that one is
blinded. These are some of the incidents of a holiday
in Honolulu. <A few years ago, there might have been
added an occasional wild bullock escaped from the lasso,
madly cavorting along the street and diving at the
scattering crowd.

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 29
THE FISH MARKET.

The greatest and most characteristic novelty of Hon-
olulu, never altering its features, is the fish market on
Saturday afternoon. It is located at the northern ex-
tremity of Queen Street. Here are exposed for sale
fresh fish from every part of Oahu coast, pickled salmon
from Oregon, dried fish from the other islands, squid
smaller than Victor Hugo’s devil fish, dolphin and boni-
ta in their season, also flying fish and ocean mullet,
the latter always in good supply, the young fry being
secured and fatted in ponds.. The variety and beauty
of the tropical fish are wonderful. The naturalist with-
out exertion, save a short walk, may secure a score of
new varieties. The market is supplied with shrimps,
sca-urchins, lobsters, crabs and various kinds of shell-fish,
as also sea mosses, which are valued by the natives as
relishes for their poi. Here, too, meats of all kinds
are for sale, as well as vegetables and melons; the awa.
seller has his department, and the tobacco (native leaf’)
peddler a regular placeof trade. Thousands of Hawai-
ians flock hither in holiday garb to procure the dainties,
to be obtained nowhere else, and the scene is one of dire
confusion to the stranger. With ordinary powers of
imagination you may get from this crowd a good idea.
of what occurred a few thousand years ago at the‘Tower
of Babel. Every nation that you can readily call to
mind, and others that are yet nameless in history, are
here represented. We doubt if the Apostles had a hbet-
ter field in which to display their gift of languages on
the “day of Pentecost.” Stolid-looking Hindoo is
cheek-by-jowl, with the gesticulating Frenchman—
swarthy Spaniard jostles the fair-haired German—pigmy

3%

30 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

Malay is overshadowed by the huge African—inquisi-
tive Yankee confronts the cat-eyed Chinaman—jaunty
Chileno and blubber-logged Russian—dulcet-toned Ta-
hitian and guttural Indian—fastidious Briton and not
at all fastidious Hawatian—children of the sunny south
and of the frozen north—sons of the old and worn out
east, and of the young and vigorous west—“ black spir-
its and white, red spirits and gray,” all mingle together
and form the singular element of a Saturday afternoon
in Honolulu.
AROUND THE ISLAND.

A visit to Honolulu is incomplete without a trip
around the island, easily performed on horseback or in
abuggy. <A part of the circuit is so uninviting to any
but the geologist that itis usually omitted, indeed the
traveler who expects to find every rod of soil bursting
with tropical vegetation is doomed to disappointment.
Tradition makes the land outside of Hden’s garden a
howling waste, so here are treeless plains, rough, rocky
hills and voleanic sand and clay, but this very contrast
is what makes the fertile valleys more attractive and
beautiful. ‘The so-called trip around the island, omitting
the route by Coco Head referred to, is only 80 miles,
and may be accomplished comfortably in three or four
days. ‘The matter of outfit, guides, é&c., can be arrang-
ed by consultation with Mr. Herbert at the office of the
hotel. The road taken is that described to the pali;
having descended the mountain pass, a gallop of three
miles takes the rider to the village of Kaneohe, where
are located several sugar plantations. Thence a de-
lightful ride of ten miles through cane fields, taro and
rice patches; also among hamlets, grazing fields, and on
through the jungle of guava bushes to Judd’s Ranch

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. Sal,

at Kualoa. The scenery is of the most delightful char-
acter, bounded inland by magnificent palisades and sea-
ward by the coral fringed ocean. From this point a
barrier mountain, reaching far down toward the sea,
shuts ont the view of the road and leaves the traveler
alone with the mountain and the sea. A good road en-
tices him onward, new views of surpassing beauty open
on the unwearied eye at every turn; now of a small
hamlet in a well watered valley, now of a stupendous
cliff or of a deep bay surf bounded and coral paved.
A waterfall in the exquisite Valley of Hauula allures
the traveler from the direct road; he wonders at the
Mormon colony at Laie, then spurs his horse on over
the cattle trod plain of Kahuku. If a conchologist, he
tarries on the beach at Waimea to gather the fluted
univolyus, that shell-workers use, or, if a theologian,
he diverges to the renowned heian, or heathen temple,
where human sacrifices once bleached on the altar.

Fifty miles from Honolulu, by the above route, is
Waialua, formerly a populous village, but now note-
worthy only for a girls’ school and one or two sugar
plantations and cattle ranches. From this point, a
gradual ascent of eight miles leads the tourist to a pam-
pas alive with cattle and horses. It is deeply scored
by ravines and water courses, some requiring a detour
of a mile or more to cross. As natural wonders they
are worth the trip. Lofty mountains, hazy in the dis-
tance, bound these great plains, now treeless, but once
densely shaded by a forest that was burnt in order to
find its Sandal wood.

Still ascending, but so gradually that the exhilarating
gallop never flags, the summit brings in sight Diamond
Head, Honolulu harbor and the panorama of the coast

32 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

for thirty miles. Now descending we pass, after a few
miles, the village of Hwa, the famous harbor of Pearl
River, rice and sugar plantations, wonderful fish ponds
on the distant left, then on again by the famous crater
and its salt,lake, and over the coral road, past the In-
sane Asylum, the Reform School and the Prison, and
again enter Honolulu and draw up at the Hotel, after a
ride that has no superior for comfort, ease and charm-
ing views, the Hawaiian Islands.

STEAMER KILAUEA.

The traveler seeking new and strange sights will
find none more curious than those connected with the
departure of the inter-island steamer; nor does the
novelty end, nor can all be witnessed, without taking
personal cognizance of an island circuit from the deel
of the steamer ‘‘ Kilanea”’ as a passenger.

This staunch propeller of 400 tons is owned by the
Hawaiian Government, and is managed in its interest.
It is generally crowded and those proposing to take an
excursion should secure their tickets a day or two in
advance of the date of sailing, to obtain good berths,
Mr, Herbert will always give attention to this important
master, his experience enabling him to advise and assist,
to do just the right thing in the right place.

The office of the Kilauea is in the counting room of
Hon. S. G. Wilder, on the corner of Fort and Queen
streets, under whose management the government
steamer has become deservedly popular. Hvery per-
son, who in the past has ever endured the discom-
forts or horrors of a crowded inter-island schooner pas-
sage, will bless the Kilauea and steam in a calm ; and
in a blow will look at the watchful Captain on the

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 33

bridge and hear the constant revolution of the powerful
machine®y with most unalloyed satisfaction. The ar-
rangements for the comfort of passengers on this ves-
sel are yery good—awnings, seats and mattresses on
deck, with broad transoms and clean berths below.
The table is well supplied, and the store of ice and of
ice water is abundant—a luxury that none can fail to
appreciate, at sea in the tropics.

A grand feature of the voyage consists in the licensed
observation of Hawaiian home life—manners, habits,
civilization, kind of dress, mode of rest, of retiring,
of arising, of eating, drinking, caring for wife, chil-
dren and family, the eating of poi with their fingers,
which every one should see ;—all these and an immense
deal more are to be witnessed in perfect freedom and
abandon on the steamer, and that in every degree of
caste, and demi-semi-civilization.» The scene on deck,
when the vessel is crowded is an amusing one. The
natives are mostly deck passengers, paying one or two
dollars each, according to distance. Not unfrequently
they are so thickly congregated forward of the privi-
leved quarter-deck—reserved for foreigners who pay
for the privilege—that they are unable to he down,
but remain wedged up in a tangled mass of men,
women, children, dogs, mats and calabashes, suggesting
the idea of a nice mess when the inevitable channel is
encountered. When weary of the sights of this phase
of humanity, the step to perfect rest costs the turn of
an eye to the ocean and the coast, which, if Capt. Mar-
chant is in command, is close aboard. The Captain
mows every sounding in the islands, and gives the
tourist a near and safe observation wherever he may go.

34 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

ISLAND OF MAUI.

This island consists of two lofty mountain masses,
separated by a sand isthmus from six to ten miles in
length and six miles wide from the northern shore to
Maalaea Bay. Hastern Maui consists of the plains,
slopes, precipices and canyons of Haleakala (House of
the Sun) 10,030 feet high. West Mani mountains,
though not so high, are more inaccessibly mountainous,
do not comprise so large a quantity of fine, arable land,
and on the whole are more picturesque than is Hast
Mani, unless the windward district be an exception.

LAHAINA.

~ Ten hours’ steaming from Honolulu brings us to La-
haina, the islands of Molokai and Lanai having been
passed during the night. This town is the capital of
Maui, and residence of the governor of the island and
other executive officers. Itis built in a grove of cocoa-
nut, breadfruit, mango, tamarind, orange and other
trees, which grow to the very ocean verge, whose rocky
shore. and sandy beach are ever friged by the foam of
the playful breakers that often rise into lofty rollers,
the terror of any landing boat, but glorious playthings
of the daring surf riders, many of whom live here and
are frequently seen sporting in the breakers. Jor two
miles along the coast the white dwellings seem to grow

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 35

out of the trees, while the whole is bounded by an em-
erald border of rustling sugar cane. The back ground
of the picture is grand in mountain majesty, rent into
deep cliffs when the foot prints of Almighty power trod
here in earthquake and volcanic eruption. The con-
trasts are violent, abrupt, prompt and worth coming
afar to see. They are all distinctly seen from the sea,
but when viewed from the summit above Lahainaluna
in the afternoon, as the sunlight varies its brilliancy
with the approach of delightful evening, the scene is
far more beautiful. Three islands enter the landscape,
—Kahoolawe to the left, Lanai to the front, and Molo-
kai to the right, the grand dome of Hast Maui being
partly shut off by the mountain. ‘To a true lover of
nature this scene has attractions that hold like invinci-
ble chains,—chains neyer to be broken.

In Hawaiian early history Lahaina was the city of
the King, and the chief capital of Hawaii. Its harbor
has been greatly renowned in the palmy days of the
nearly extinct whale fishery. Its sheltered roadstead
held at one time half an hundred ships with room
for a thousand more. Its narrow streets held scores of
shops and sailors’ homes, and it was provided with a
Bethel, a Consulate anda U. 8. Hospital. Now, Ho-
nolulu is the metropolis. The royal palace, 120 by 40
feet with its huge surrounding veranda has tumbled
down; the old fort has been removed; the consulate,
hospital and the land-shark sailor homes have all been
abandoned, and Lahaina is in decay. Still a company-
of clamorous boat boys besiege the steamer’s gangeway
as she rides at anchor; the old break-water protects
the landing and the lighthouse; the government build-

36 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

ing in which are the. court-room, post-office, &c., is in
open sight, and here the traveler may debark for his
trip around Maui, or continue to the Bay, a few miles
farther east.

Lahaina has no hotel or public-place of entertainment ;
yet for a very reasonable stipend furnished dwellings
can be obtained by the day or week for an individual,
a family or a party; while meals can be obtained of
Chinese cooks at fair rates by the day or week. Let-
ters of introduction from friends abroad or in Honolulu
to the foreigners residing here, will always open wide
the doors of a generous hospitality, and assure the
bearers of as kind a welcome as can be found in the
world. In the same respect and to the same degree, de
proper credentials assure the visitor a kind reception
anywhere and everywhere on the islands. The pro-
prietors of plantations, the officers of government,
and merchants and foreigners in general are always
willing, and more than willing to do all im their power
to make visitors comfortable. _ Questions will always be
answered, information freely given, and aid extended
to the courteous and reasonable traveler, who will find
some one ready to answer all his demands for a fair re-
muneration,

There is not much to interest the traveler in this
place. The Court House, the native churches, Protest-
ant and Catholic, the Anglican ‘ Sister’s School,” the
sugar plantation of Messrs. Campbell & Turton, and the
Native Hawaiian College at Lahainaluna are the princi-
pal objects of interest. The latter institution is located
six hundred and fifty-two feet above the sea, two miles
back of Lahaina,—an oasis of green on tie slope of a

Districts on Oahu Districts of. Mani
1 Kaanapali
2 Kula

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ISLANDS.

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Honolulu Observatory..........2....05 21°17" 56” 157°48’ 30 | Lahaina Anchorage.....-...-.4.2+.+:- 20°52 =. 156-347 .
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Waimea (Kanai) Anchorage........... 21 57) apse 2 eSitbmuhamunitont diMavene Mlpntae. 6 Apter aac fara o (heres en imemelicea mlell

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 27

red clay mountain, and “ Upper Lahaina,” as seen from
the deck of the steamer, with its bright foliagé and em-
bowered cottages, forms a pretty feature of the picture.
Persons interested in the literature and scholastic pro-
gress of the islands will meet a cordial reception from
President Bishop and Professor Baldwin, who are at
the head of this institution. _ As the manual labor sys-
tem obtains, the best time to visit the school is in the
morning. This institution is the most advanced of the
kind in the group, and is sustained by the government.

Black Rock, situated on the Maui Channel shore,
three miles from Lahaina, is a small crater that is now
and was formerly an object of no little attraction. It
is well worth a visit, beg within a comfortable riding
distance for morning" or evening recreation.

A TRIP AROUND MAUI.

Horses may be obtained and guides for the overland
ride by sending a previous notice to friends at Lahaina,
or by waiting in town until they are secured. Two
routes present themselves; a third exists, but so seldom
taken as hardly to enter for choice in crossing the
mountain to Hast Maui; and yet, to the young and vig-
orous Alpe climber, the ascent of the deep gorge near
Lahaina that leads to the Wailuku Pass, and thereafter
the exciting and in places dangerous descent of the
wonderful rift that bisects West Maui, with all its la-
bor and toil and peril will be most attractive. The
second route is by the shore around Maui toward Black
Rock, and the Maui channel on the west and north;
thence by Kaanapali and its plains of sugar cane, thence
by a continual series of ascending and descending palis

4

38 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

until the village of Wailuku is reached. The journey
consumes only the hours of daylight, and most amply
repays the toil by a constant change of fine tropical
scenery. The route most commonly chosen is over the
mountain by the way of the sea coast east of Lahaina,
—a dusty and fatiguing ride of four or five hours. The
traveler, in crossing the mountain may possibly be treat-
ed toa mumuku or squall of wind from one of the
gulches that opens on the plains of Oloalu ; in that case
look out that the bridle does not blow off the horse, or
the hat and coat from his rider. Descending the rug-
ged mountain, the plain of Kula gives a fast gallopme
road to Waikapu, a small village, noted in history
as the rendezvous where KAMEHAMEHA THE Grnat called
his troops to battle by blowing a conch shell. Passing
this without dismounting, we come to

WAILUKU,

A thriving village, at the mouth of the Wailuku valley.
It is a place of considerable importance from the amount
of business centered and foreigners resident there. In
this immediate vicinity are four sugar plantations,
where magnificent fields of cane follow for miles on miles,
not less than fourteen. Firstis that of Cornwell & Son ;
succeeded by the Bailey plantation; next the Brewer
plantation, and adjoining this, that of Messrs. Wide-
mann & Co. The schooner Moi, one of the finest of the
Hawaiian coasting fleet, makes regular weekly trips
between the port and Honolulu. The steamer Kilauea
lands mails and passengers at Maalaea Bay, connecting
by express wagons with Wailuku, five miles distant.
Another landing is called Kalepolepo, and is distant ten
miles from Wailuku and Ulupalakua.

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 39
THE WAILUKU PASS AND VALLEY,

Tho soil of the Wailuku Valley is very rich. Taro
is cultivated extensively and largely supplies the plan-—
tations and surrounding country. This valley is full of
wonderful scenery ; formerly a crater, its fires are sup-
posed to be still not actually extinct, as steam cracks
have recently been discovered in a lofty, remote, and
until recently unknown spot. Here is a field awaiting
some energetic explorer. A. never failing stream flows
through this valley. But itis not the agricultural or
economical features that chiefly attract the traveler to
this spot. It is that to which allusion has already been
made—“ the Pass.” ‘ Prospects more picturesque and
more awfully grand are seldom seen by the most univer-
sal traveler. Itis attended with much fatigue and some
danger, but the tourist is amply repaid for all his toil.
The river Iao wends its way through it with a thousand
gentle murmurs among crags of fallen lava and wild
luxuriant tropical foliage.”

Up the “ Pass” winds-a narrow footpath over rock,
through wild grass and ferns, along the brink of tre-
mendous precipices. Here was fought one of those des-
perate battles of KaAmpHAMEHA THE GREAT, who by it
conquered Maui. Retreat was impossible. Limited
room for fighting rendered the conflict deadly. Face
to face, hand to hand, and those hands armed with
sharks’ teeth, they fought until both victor and van-
quished rolled off the pali. So terrible was the carnage,
that the river was dammed with the slain ; baptizing the
peaceful Iao with the new name Wailuku, (water of
destruction.) It is called the “ Battle of the precipice,”
and the river at that point is named the Kepaniwai, or

40 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

stopping water. Kahekili’s army was annihilated, and
Prince Kalanikupule, in command, fled to his father
residing on Oahu.

Three miles from Wailuku is the port of Kahului,
where all the freight and produce of the vicinity is tran-
shipped, to and from vessels, which frequentit. In pass-
ing over the sand plain between the two places, bones of
warriors may be seen,—the mouldering relics of the
Hawaiian battles of ancient times.

HAST MAUL.

More than two-thirds of the entire island is included
by this part of Maui, and that by far the most produc-
tive, most genial and attractive. The extent of agri-
cultural lands cannot be less than 100,000 acres in the
vicinity of Makawao alone, though at present for the
most part unavailable for the want of rain or streams.
It is claimed by some that all this fine region may be irri-
gated from the abundant streams of Hamakua; but to
bring the water from thence would be a costly under-
taking,—labor for a future generation.

Here, upon the comfortable slopes of Haleakala, may
be found the temperature of every zone and its produc-
_ tions. So gradual and easy is the ascent of the moun-
tain, the loftiest point of which is 10,030 feet above the
saa, that some superficial observers treat it with disre-
spect. Wheat, corn, oats, potatoes, figs and peaches are
readily and abundantly raised, while the yield of sugar
to the acre is not exceeded in the world.

MAKAWAO.
Two thousand feet above the sea is located the dis-
trict of Makawao, on the north eastern slope of the

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. Al

mountain. Its climate is so delicious that one writer
uses this language in its description, which no one who
. has visited the place will consider exaggerated: “A
man feels years younger, and he is almost tempted to
wish he were a child again, so that he might chase the
butterfly from flower to flower. He wanders among
whole groves of the rose and blood geranium, towering
to a height of four to seven feet, breathing forth almost
celestial odors. He stretches forth his hands and plucks
a peach so luscious and blooming that it seems an act
of violence to deface it by eating. The pure dew drops
are pendant from every bough, and these delicate tears
of night drop upon your drapery, hands, hair and
cheeks, with all the sweetness-of a lover’s kiss. Think
of this before breakfast! while thousands in our cities
are buried in sleep—and in the month of May.”

In regard to hospitality the same writer, ‘Sandwich —
Island Notes by a Haole”’ has these remarks, which
may appropriately be introduced here: ‘I was deeply
sensible of the kindness of the foreign residents to the
trayeler before leaving Makawao. No matter how fara
man has traveled in the course of a day, nor how rude
his externals may be, the welcome he receives by the
family of a foreigner he never forgets. This generous
spirit is rife both im missionary and lay families. The
parlor is scrupulously neat and clean. The table cov-
ered with linen of a snowy whiteness, and supplied with
plain and good cheer for the inner man. Night covers
that dwelling with its dark wings. You are shown to
a sleeping apartment where the bed drapery rivals the
whiteness of winter’s snows, its fine sheets have been
spread for your special comfort. You would not change

4%

42 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

your position for the ‘Paradise of the Prophet,’ even
if you could get there, * * * and as sleep begins to
steal over your senses you are led to exclaim, ‘My
country women! God bless them forever!’ ”

SUGAR PLANTATIONS.

The sugar of the Makawao plantations is very supe-
rior, and the yield more uniform than in some other
districts, where rain is not so regular throughout the
year. The cane does not tassel here, and its growth in
the cool climate is not-as rapid'as elsewhere. There are
NOW, four plantations; the Haiku, the Hamakua, the
Grove Ranch and Hast Maui, the combined product of
which is\about twenty-two hundred tons annually.

SEMINARIES.

Here are located two educational institutions, which
reflect credit on the residents of Makawao. The Fe-
male Boarding School, under the care of Miss Carpen-
ter and Miss Mary Parker, has thirty-four pupils, who
are taught in English and trained to domestic work. A
Military Boarding School is also located here, which is
under the charge of Prof. F..L. Clarke. It has fifty to
sixty boys, who are given a thorough academical edu-
cation, combmed with manual labor and military in-
struction. This institution is wnder the care of the
Board of Education, which aids in its support. :

ASCENT OF HALHAKALA,.

The traveler who goes to Maui for pleasure and sight-
seeing, must not fail to visit ‘The House of the Sun.”
As a pleasure trip it amply repays one’s time and

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 45

trouble, and no description, however graphic, can do it
justice. Perhaps the world affords no similar fifteen
miles of horseback travel, which, with so little compar-
ative effort, will elevate one so many thousand feet, and
there command atone glance such a vast areacof bound-
less vision. On leaving Makawao,—and early in the
morning is the ‘best time to start for the summit,—one
may take the ‘narrow path alone as a good guide
until it reaches a pomt where it multiplies into number-
less cattle tracks ; there’a ‘sharp eye may make a bee
line to some prominent summit peak; ‘but it is quite as
well, and safer, to have a good guide familiar with ‘the
way. It will also ‘be well worth the trouble to take
blankets and such attendants as will make it comforta-
ble to ‘remain all night, if the weather be favorable, to
view ten thonsand feet of sunrise and sunset once ina
life-time. The trip and return can be made the same
day by starting as early as four o’clock in the morning.

The absence of forests will ‘strike the observer. In
some places young groves of koa, a species of acacia,
may be seen. ‘Also the silvery foliage of kukui groves
in many ravines and gulches. The bulk of the timber
‘was probably consumed in'those wanton days when the
forests were set on fire to discover sandal wood. by its
‘burning fragrance. In July a complete: circuit of
the mountain is covered with strawberries, and every
year bushels by the thousand ‘wait in vain for pickers.
Ohelos, a strictly Hawaiian production, abound in their
season. This fruit resembles a cranberry, grows on a
shrub, and may be found of different species. They
are of a crimson color, and equal to American whortle-
berries in favor and sweetness. Another wax berry,

44 HAWAITAN GUIDE BOOK.

hiding by its beautiful profusion the parent stalk, will
attract attention and excite the admiration by its deli-
cate contrast of pink and white, especially when grow-
ing in proximity to the jet black berries of a vagrant
plant resembling moss ; both are beautiful and tempting
but worthless. An interesting characteristic of the
limbs of some of the trees will be noticed in’ the fantas-
tic robes of luxuriant moss that multiply their real
dimensions to huge proportions.

A sure guarantee of wind and weather can no more
be expected of a guide book than a similar prediction
in “ Poor Richard’s Almanac.” The start may be in a
clear and cloudless sky, and the day may so continue ;
yet after a few miles half numb, half stifling sensations
creeping over the limbs may bring to mind the pure,
pungent atmosphere of a New England morning in
March. Or, the clouds may gather around, as the
tourist ascends, and leave him to plod his way through
a cold and cheerless rain. Rising higher the atmos-
phere rarefies, the clouds scatter, and again the mountain
top is in sight. Where the rain clouds cease, vegeta-
tion mostly ceases, and the region of sterile rock begins.
This point is about 8,000 feet above the sea. The as-
cent here is literally through a field of lava scoriz
yery fatiguing to man and beast. The distance to
the summit is now only four or five miles, but your
faithful horse will be sure to give out unless .he was
carefully shod at the start. No hoof, unshod, can en-
dure incessant grinding over rough lava.

The road is so passable that after four or five hours
of riding from the village, the brow of the crater is
reached. The view is limited from this spot, and, dis-

{
i
'
'

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 45

mounting, the horses are fastened, to rest, and nibble
the scanty herbage, while you walk by a nondescript
path, abounding with diabolical fragments of lava and
atrocious jumping: off places, for some distance along
the crater’s jagged edge, to an elevated spur command-
ing the whole panorama below.

What a grand prospect! Standing on this lofty sum-
mit, ten thousand feet above the sea, a sight that beg-
gars description bursts on the unprepared vision. Wea-
riness is forgotten; language fails ; silence reigns.

Four thousand feet above the level of the clouds that
float around the mountain’s brow like banks of snow ;
the summit possesing a horizon two hundred miles in
diameter ; an atmosphere clear even to rarefaction: no
impeding obstacle to extended vision in any direction
—the observer is spell-bound.

To the westward are the mountains of West Maui,
with the horizon unbroken above them; beyond them is
Molokai; far to the northwest lies the cloud-capped
Island of Oahu, and on very clear days may be seen the
' peaks of Kauaitwo hundred and fifty miles distant. La-
nai stands gleaming opposite distant Lahaina. Kahoo-
lawe is a mere rock, and Molokini a speck at your feet.
Southeast, in the far-off sky, are the blue summits
of the three giant mountains of Hawaii, Mauna Kea
and Hualalai, with the magnificent dome of Manna Loa.
Everywhere beyond, around and abroad is the blue
ocean, stretching upward till the horizon seems suspend-
ed midway between the zenith and the base of the moun-
tains,—a sight which once seen can never be forgotten.

Below, at a distance of more than two thousand feet,
is a crater unequaled in size in the world; quiescent for —

46 HAWAITAN GUIDE BOOK.

ages, a space of time whereof the mind of man runiieth
not to the contrary, it affords a view of the marvelous
which no lover of nature should fail to obtain. The
bowl of this crater is oblong in shape, and so immense
as to surpass in extent the entire city of New York,
below Central Park, which is of a somewhat simi-
lar form. ‘Trinity steeple would be a toy cane by the
side of one of its sixteen sub-crater cones, some of
which are larger than Punch Bowl that overlooks Hon-
olulu, and five hundred and fifty feet in hight. The
shape of this huge crater of Haleakala, must, in former
ages, have been that of an egg seven miles in length
and two thousand feet deep.

The sides of the external crater are in some places a
perfect wall; in others abutments of lava rocks flanked
by slides of scoriz, or red and black sand. On the east
and north two black rivers, perhaps two miles wide, run
out of the center of the crater, each current making a
deep gap through the solid external wall, one running
north-easterly towards Hamakua, the other towards
Kaupo, both reaching the sea, and showing the course
of the streams throughont their entire length. The
lava is as fresh as if the eruption was yesterday,
and suggests, why not again to-morrow? At some
period this immense bowl was undoubtedly filled with
lava, when the mountain must, by a heavy earthquake,
have been broken into the gaps through which these
rivers run, and the sixteen cones at the bottom of the
large crater been formed since that grand rupture.

The absence of familiar objects to give a relative size
to other objects embarrasses any attempt at description.
Hverything is so immense at this elevation that craters

Ld
HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. An

eight hundred feet high in the basin below look like small
mounds. A descent into the crater and a day’s travel
is essential to even a tolerable acquaintance with its
many wonders. An idea may be conveyed by the ap-
pearance of a flock of goats half way down the crater.
They appeared no larger than rats, and when running
at full speed seemed hardly to move over a few rods.

Water, clear as crystal, may be obtained in abundance
along the mountain route and until within two miles of
the summit; also from a spring in Kula; and in the
Kaupo end of the crater, from a water hole called,
“ Ka wai pant.” Tt is chilling cold. One third of the
way down into the center of the crater is a deep basin
always full of clear, cold ice water, and near by isa
cavern where travelers across the island may find tem-
porary shelter, there being a path practicable for horses
across the bottom of the crater to the Hana district.

Among the peculiar and noteworthy curiosities of the
trip are the silver-sword plants, (Argyroxyphium)—
Alpine silver-swords of all sizes to the height of six or
seven feet, and found in the crater and on the upper
two thousand feet of the mountain. A single plant may
have several hundred leaves, each being from twelve to
sixteen inches in length, three or four lines in width
and coated with a thick down of splendid silvery hue.
The plant isan annual, with a dark red flower: in shape
it is convex and may be seen at several miles distance,
glistening in the sun. It is highly prized by travelers
and tourists.

In winter Haleakala is often covered with snow.
During all the cold months ice forms at low tempera-
tures, and clothing should always be warm, with extra

48 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

garments fora sudden change. The party should by
all means go prepared with food and blankets to spend
a night, in order to enjoy SUNSET AND SUNRISE

IN THE HOUSE OF THE SUN.

Tho singular clearness and purity of the atmosphere
at this great elevation, the immense circuit of the hori-
zon, make the magnificent view of the day hardly less
attractive at night. The sunlight strikes this point
first, and leaves this point last. When candles have been
long burning at Wailuku, the western horizon holds
clouds still tinted with orange, vermilion, violet, purple,
cornelian, amethyst rose, the eastern horizon has lit
its stars, and the South exhibits the Southern Cross.
The first morning and last evening rays cast shadows
and outlines in the vast crater pit, the rough profile of
the opposite bank, a most peculiar and striking sight, to
which is doubtless due the origin of the name Haleaka-
la. The sunrise is most grand and wonderful, rising as
it does from this elevated horizon, that seems suspended
midway between the zenith and the shores of this vol-
canic cone, whose summit stands ten thousand feet
above. The artist to paint this landscape is yet to
come. The writer who shall put its picture into
“thoughts that breathe and words that burn’ will be
thrice welcome to “‘ Haleakala, the House of the Sun.”

A LADY’S DESCRIPTION.

From a recent volume,* we copy the following
graphic description of this scene: “ The sunrise turned
the densely packed clouds below into great rosy masses,

* «Phe Hawaiian Archipelago,’”? by Miss I. L. Bird ; London, 1875,

f
L
:

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. AQ

which broke now and then, showing a vivid blue sea,
and patches of velvety green. At seven, after toiling
over a last steep bit, among scorie, and some very
scanty and unlovely vegetation, we reached what was
said to be the summit, where a rugged wall of rock
shut out the forward view. Dismounting on some cin-
ders, we stepped into a gap, and from thence looked
down into the most gigantic crater onearth. I confess
that with the living fires of Kilauea in my memory, I
was at first disappointed with the deadness of a volcano
of whose activity there are no traditions extant.
Though during the hours which followed, its majesty
and wonderment grew upon me, yet a careful study of
the admirable map of the crater, 2 comparison of the
heights of the very considerable cones which are buried
within it, and the attempt to realize the figures which
represent its circumference, area, and depth, not only
give a far better idea of it than any verbal description,
but impress its singular sublimity and magnitude upon
one far more forcibly than a single visit to the actual
crater. * * * The great surprise of Hale-
akala to me was, that when according to calculation
there should have been a summit, an abyss of vast
dimensions opened below. The mountain top has been
in fact blown off, and one is totally powerless to im-
agine what the forces must have been which rent it
asunder. * * = I diyided the time be-
tween glimpses into the awful desolation of the crater,
snatched between the icy gusts of wind, and the enjoy-
ment of the wonderful cloud scenery which to every-
body is a great charm of the view from Haleakala.
The day was perfect; for first we had an inimitable
)

50 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

view of the crater and all that could be seen from the
mountain-top, and then an equally inimitable view of
Cloudland. There was the gaunt, hideous, desolate
abyss, with its fiery cones, its rivers and surges of black
lava and grey ash, crossing and mingling all over the
area, mixed with splotches of color and coils of satin
rock, its walls dark and frowning, everywhere riven
and splintered, and clouds perpetually drifting through
the great gaps, and filling up the whole crater with
white swirling masses, which in a few minutes melted
away in the sunshine, leaving it all as sharply definite
as before. Before noon clouds surrounded the whole
mountain, not in the vague, flocculent, meaningless
masses one usually sees, but in Arctic oceans, where
lofty icebergs, floes and pack, lay piled on each other,
glistening with the frost of a Polar winter; then Alps
on Alps, and peaks of well remembered ranges gleaming
above glaciers, and the semblance of deep ravines load-
ed with new fallen snow. Snow-drifts, avalanches,
oceans held in bondage of eternal ice, and all this mass-
ed together, shifting, breaking, glistering, filling up the
broad channel which divides Maui from Hawaii, and far
away above the lonely masses, rose, in turquoise blue,
like distant islands, the lofty Hawaiian domes of Mauna
Kea and Mauna Loa, with snow on Mauna Kea, yet
more dazzling than the clouds. There neyer was a
stranger contrast than between the hideous désolation
of the crater below, and those blue and jeweled sum-
mits rising above the shifting clouds.”

EXTENT OF THE CRATER.

Prof. W. D, Alexander, in August, 1869, spent six
days making a thorough and accurate survey of the cra-

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. i

ter with a theodolite. The greatest length of the crater
was from east to west, seven and one-half miles; the
narrowest point, two and a-quarter miles; circumfer-
ence, eighteen to twenty miles, and general form oval.
Kolekole, the highest point on the west side, is 10,030
feet above the sea, and is 2,720 feet above the base level
at the bottom of the crater. The area of the crater is
about sixteen and one-third square miles. The point
where the Makawao road strikes the summit is 2,000
feet above the bottom of the crater. On the night of
August 5th, a heavy frost fell around the camp and the
thermometer indicated 838° to 42° at sunrise, and at
noon 72° in the shade. The average variation of
the needle was 94° H. Where magnetic lava abounds,
the variation was greater.

THE TRIP TO HANA,

Mount Haleakala has a circumference of ninety miles,
and is divided into eight districts. Commencing at
Kula near to Makawao, then come Honuaula, {Kahi-
kinui, Kaupo, Kipahulu, Hana, Koolau and Hama-
kua. Hach extends from eight to fifteen miles along
the shore, narrowing as it approaches the summit.
Honuaula has a soft, rich soil, and will be described as
Ulupalakua plantation. Kahikinui is dry and rocky,
and fit only for grazing. Kaupo and Kipahulu are too
stony for plough and harrow cultivation. Koolau con-
sists of dense forests, while Hamakua has forests and
well watered: pasture lands. Hana has good soil,
a small sugar plantation, and, with Maliko, the only
~ good harbor from Wailuku to Makena. The traveler
from Makawao passes eastward over a rolling country

52 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

pasture and wood, the road, which at first is good,
growing worse and worse, until in the Hamakua swamp,
he reaches the worst road in the Kingdom, consisting of
an unbroken series of ridges formed by the feet of ani-
mals, their hoofs sinking into the mud so deep that their
bellies rest on the ridges. After getting through the
swamp, the road lies over palis and through valleys not
less than twenty, some high up where the horizon is
fifty miles at sea, and the bottom of the ravines, thous-
ands of feet below ; so on up and down, over ridges and
through deep canyons that may appropriately be called

THE SWITZERLAND OF HAWAII.

“Nothing can be more enchanting than this wild and
ever changing panorama.* Hach valley that we enter
séems more charming than the one just passed—some
new and more fascinating scenery, some more singular
precipice or mountain spur, some more beautiful water-
fall or cascade is ever attracting the eye. From the
sea-shore to the mountain summit, stretch dense forests
of tropical growth, in places a perfect jungle, the dark
green of the orange, koa, pandanus, and ohia, forming
a marked contrast to the bright silvery leaf of the ku-
kui. One of the most beautiful valleys is that of Waio-
huh, about eight miles west of Nahinu. Several streams
come rushing down from the mountain and their course
can be traced far up, by the frequent waterfalls and cas-
cades, which appear very picturesque among the dense
foliage around them, When it rains here, the drops
fall merrily, and in an hour the effect is apparent in the
rapid, swollen streams. Frequently after a day’s rain,

* From 4 sketch by the Editor, published in 1868, in the Advertiser.

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 53

all the streams in this district are either impassable, or
crossed. only at great risk, and travelers should not ven-
ture over, when cautioned against it by the natives.

“The valley of Wailuanui, or the two large waters, is,
perhaps, the most romantic on the island of Maui. It
is quite broad, and broken by ridges or spurs of the
mountain into valleys or ravines, in which orange groves
and apple trees (chia) abound, while the pine apple and
banana grow wild almost everywhere. The coast is ab-
rupt and rocky, consisting mostly of steep precipices,
and destitute of harbors, between Hana and Haiku. In
July or August, the traveler through this wild district
may witness a sight not often seen, which is—

THE LARGEST APPLE ORCHARD IN THE WORLD,

“The wilderness of Koolau, Maui, contains a forest
of ohias, (native wild apple trees,) countless in number,
stretching from the sea far up the mountain sides. The
trees vary from forty to fifty feet in height, and in the
harvest season, from July to September, are covered
with fruit, some white, but mostly red. We passed
through the forest, when the trees were loaded with
ripe and ripening apples. What a sight! For miles
around us, up the mountain and toward the seashore,
was one vast grove of ohias literally red with ripe fruit,
their branches bending to the ground with the bounte-
ous harvest. Birds of gorgeous colors, of mingled red,
blue, green, yellow and black, were feasting in countless
numbers, and making the forest ring with happy cho-
ruses. The crop of these apple orchards, which nature
has planted so generously in this wild and solitary
waste, would fill a fleet of one hundred steamers of the

5*

54 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

size of the Mikado; for the orchard stretches over a
country from five to ten miles wide by twenty miles
long, and many of the larger trees bear at least fifty bar-
rels apiece. The fruit furnishes the traveler excellent
repast, appeasing both thirst and hunger. So far ar is
now known, no commercial use can be made of the ohia,
as when ripe it cannot be kept more than four days.”

The road to Hana continues through the district of
Koolau, in an impenetrable forest reaching from the
sea shore up the mountain as far as the eye can reach.
The highway, the only passage through this jungle, is
a perfect bower of trees and vines.

HANA.

The district of Hana, the extreme eastern bound of
Hast Maui, possesses a small but excellent harbor in a
bay well sheltered from the trades and southers, but
open to the north. A good pier on the south could be
easily constructed, making a safe landing for steamers
and other craft. The country is well suited to culti-
vation, produces fine crops of sugar, awa and tobacco,
said to be of a superior flavor and quality. The roads
in the district are good, and it is capable of sustaining
a, population of ten thousand people. Hana is peculiar
in this, that notwithstanding the abundant rains with
which it is favored, no permanent stream exists in its
borders, and the people rely on spring and rain water
for their supply.

Returning from Hana, we pass around Haleakala
toward the south. Twelve miles, brings us to Kipahu-
lu village. Between Kipahulu and Kaupo are a num-
ber of ravines and palis, all of which have to be crossed.

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 55

One is noteworthy for having its steep precipices cov-
ered through all their length and breadth with screw-
pines, (lawhala,) which rise from the bottom to the top
of the sloping steeps in a dense mass, and in most. beau-
tiful symmetry. Wailua valley is one of those pictur-
esque productions of nature that could never be imag-
ined. It has two streams, three silver white waterfalls
and foliage of endless variety. The precipices are per-
pendicular, and covered with vines dangling down from
the cliffs several hundred feet to the swift roaring
streams which rush through the valley from the
mountain..
ULUPALAKUA,

The sugar plantation of Captain James Makee, Ulu-
palakua, is situated in Honnaula, a district which pos-
sesses, ab an elevation of about two thousand feet, a
soft rich soil, productive as any in the group. It is
reached by wagon road from Makawao, and has steam
communication with Honolulu by the “ Kilauea.” Its
elevation above the sea, combines the climates of the
temperate and torrid zones, and the name Hden has
been aptly applied to the garden adjoming the planter’s
mansion. Here the northern apple fruits by the side of
the date palm and sunny orange. Roses whose name
and variety is legion are ever in blossom, and that
bloom no diminutive occasional flower, but abundant
and plenteous as spring roses, allthe year round. From
the early commencement of this plantation no pains or
expense was spared to secure every flowering plant or
tree brought to the islands, and numbers may be found
in the garden that have matured no where else. Few
private establishments any where will rival or compete

56 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

with the wealth of this at Ulupalakua, in ravé valuae
ble flowers, fruit and shade trees. The number of
different varieties of flowers cannot be less than two
hundred; nor can the different varieties of fruit trees
number less than fifty. In every respect this is a
model estate, in the sugar houses, plantation quarters,
and in the avenues of trees thickly set with valua-
ble species introduced from abroad.

One peculiar feature of Ulupalakua is the entire ab»
sence of springs or streams of water. Clouds, rain and
dew, in all ordinary seasons, furnish crops, flowers and
trees with their needed supply; and for steam, for
stock, for all household and other purposes cisterns
have been constructed; so that the plantation is like a
village in India, dependent on cisterns for its water.

The establishment of Ulupalakua is as complete and
satisfactory in its internal economy as in its external
arrangement and adornment. The same kind and
watchful hand dispenses its free and abundant hospital-
ity. The taste that appears among the flowers of the
garden, so attractive, never fails to grace the parlor,
and honor the drawing-room and dining hall. A more
charming spot for a home could not be found in the
wide world than this, which has the appropriate name
of “Rose Ranch.” The view from itis so grand and
so unlike most other places in this group, that the
stranger is almost fascinated. Ashe sits on the yeran-
da, before him stretches out a panorama of ocean and
islands, with the distant horizon and scudding trade
clouds. As he enters the garden countless novelties
attract his eye on every hand—roses, lilies and carna-
tions of every shade and hue are blooming everywhere.

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 5ST

Almost every flower grown in the tropical or temperate
zone may be found here, while the numerous ever-
greens, stretching up thirty to fifty feet high, remind
him of other lands. Groves of eucalyptus trees flourish
here asin their native soil, and form a feature of the
place. Such is the spot which few who visit it can
leave without regret, or without recalling the poet’s ideal
of perfect bliss—

«In a blue summer ocean far off and alone,
Where a leaf never dies in the still blooming bowers,
And the bee banquets on through & whole year of flowers;
Where the sun loves to pause
With so fond a delay,
That the night only draws
A thin veil o’er the day ;
Where simply to feel that we breathe, that we live,
Is worth the best joys that life elsewhere can give.’’

At this point, the traveler usually takes the steamer
to proceed to Hawaii, but before passing on in our de-
scription to that island, we will give brief sketches of
the smaller islands near Maui.

KAHOOLAWE.

This island is twenty-four miles W. S. W. from
Lahaina, twelve miles from Hast Mani, and contains
25,600 acres, of which 3,000 are table land. It has for
many years past been leased asa sheep pasture. “Natives
occasionally go over to fish, and sometimes in the rainy
season to plant melons and sweet potatoes, but there are
only two or three permanent residents on it.

LANAI,

The sixth island of the group in size, is 21 miles long,
8 miles broad, and has a territory of a little more than
100,000 acres. It derives its native name from its re-

58 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

semblance at sea to a “humpback” whale. This
island was a Puuhonua (or place of refuge) in ancient
times. Jt has sixteen heiaus, one in a very perfect
state of preservation at Kaunolu. The summit of
its main ridge rises to about 2400 feet, and this
mountain range forms a wall continuous with a circle of
lower elevations, so as to completely enclose an interior
space like a vast crater, which it no doubt is, that has
an area of about 20,000 acres; and this large, round,
land-locked valley of Palavwai, elevated 1500 feet above
the sea, is level and grassy, like the richest of culti-
vated meadow. The ridges and ravines of the island
are covered with dense forest of timber and shrubbery,
which afford a rich field for the botanist. The outer
slopes of the island leading to the sea present usually a
brown and uninviting appearance; but they afford ex-
cellent pasture for numberless herds of animals,—about
30,000 sheep, 2500 goats, 650 horses, 500 head of cat-
tle, and innumerable hogs and turkeys. Lanai is well
watered with springs and ravines, and with sweet foun-
tains at several points on its beach ; and. has one perpet-
ual stream of water in a great ravine or barranca of
great natural beauty, named Maunalei or the Mountain
Wreath. The native population is now about 380
souls, who ave fishers, shepherds and patch cultivators.
The only foreign population is Mr. Walter Murray Gib-
son and his family. As he holds by fee simple title
and on long lease about nine-tenths of Lanai, he is vir-
tual possessor of the whole island.
MOLOKINI

Is a bare uninhabited rock in the channel, midway be-
tween Kahoolawe and Hast Maui, and neither man nor
beast can subsist on it.

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. ~ 59

MOLOKAIL,

This island is long and narrow, and the high mount-
ains of the eastern end slope off gradually to the west-
ern point. The natives in speaking of Molokai, term it
Ka aina pali,—a land of precipices. Some of the
windward portions of the island, for a large part of the
year, can be approached only by sea, and that in good
weather, the mountain paths being impassable. The
leeward side presents some fine land for culture and
grazing. Immense walls all along the leeward, enclose
fish-ponds of magnificent dimensions, which in ancient
feudal times yielded revenues to the ruling chiefs,

There are several small but fertile valleys and spots
on this island, where sugarcane and ramie will thrive,
and where small plantations will probably be com-
menced. They are limited each to a few hundred acres
in extent; and no large well-watered tract is known on
Molokai, available for sugar estates, as are found on
Mani and Hawaii.

The late King Kamehameha VY. had, during hig
reign, an extensive grazing ranch, occupying the west-
ern plateau of the island, where large numbers of fine

sheep and cattle ranged. A few spotted and other deer,
sent to him by friends abroad, have increased, and
now run wild in the mountains, where no one is allowed
to hunt or killthem. It is said that they thrive well,
but the extent of their increase will depend on whether
the young can be kept from the attacks of wild dogs
which infest the mountains.

Halawa valley is the finest on Molokai. The brink
coming unawares surprises the traveler with a panorama
2,000 feet deep,—a romantic river, an arduous zigzag

60 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

descent, a luxuriant valley, a series of foaming cascades,
mighty precipices and leaping waterfalls. The palis of
Kalae, on the north-western limit of Molokai, stand
close to the shore of the ocean, perpendicular, three
thousand feet high. The fierce trade winds keep its
brink bare of vegetation. From the base of the pali,
the plains of Kalaupapa extend seaward, where is located

THE LEPER SETTLEMENT.

These plains are bounded by the ocean and_forti-
fied by the pali of Kalae, and here all lepers are
collected. They are effectually imprisoned in an open
enclosure made by nature. No one can escape, nor can
they be visited without a permit from the Board of
Health, ‘The disease of leprosy has reached its limit
and cannot be diffused any longer. All anxiety and
alarm on its account have disappeared. Those affected
with it are separated from home and friends and kept
in this secluded place at the public expense, being well
eared for, and generally contented with their lot.

WAYS TO REACH MOLOKATI,

The usual means of access to Molokai is by small
schooners from Lahaina or Honolulu. The steamer
Kilauea touches at Kaunakakai once a month, and for
travelers this is the preferable way to reach the island.
There are but few foreigners living on it, and less at-
tractions than are presented on the other islands.

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 61

ISLAND OF HAWAIL

The good steamer Kilauea will seem like an old
friend, as the traveler again embarks to continue his
voyage. He will receive a courteous welcome from the
captain and officers, and like an old stager, will settle
down in comfort and wait for the next station.

HAWAIL CHANNEL.

This turbulent river of the ocean, separating the is-
lands of Maui and Hawaii, is 830 miles wide at its nar-
rowest point. Like all the Hawaiian channels itis very
rough, and the voyager stands a fair chance of being
“rocked in the cradle of the deep” before reaching
idawan. Yet Kamehamehathe Great brought an army
of 10,000 across it, in 200 double canoes.. They were
drilled to the water, by which is meant more than the
simple aquatic life of a fisherman. Kamehameha drilled
them to encounter canoe wreck, by taking his fleet to
sea, separating the. double canoes, throwing out the
paddles and untying every string of outriggers or other
parts lable to loosen or break in ai storm, suffering them.
to float unrestrained ; then, at the word of command,
every canoe was cleared of water, every article recov-

ered, every knot tied, the water battalion ordered on
6

62 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

deck and the canoe companies sent double quick to their
quarters. Admiral Kamehameha’s naval practice was
very different from that of modern times, but most
effective in making tough warriors of his rude sailors.

MOUNTAINS OF HAWAIL

This island consists of the three mountains of Mauna
Kea 18,805 feet high, Mauna Loa about 13,700 feet and
Hualalai 8,275; also of the elevated plateau between
these mountains, and the slopes and plains from their
bases to the sea. The vegetation on the windward side
is abundant; on the leeward, the land. is hot and deso-
late, a great portion being covered with black volcanic
rock, ‘T'o this volcanic feature, Hawai owes its special
interest, and the tourist should prepare to see and to
study, not tropical but volcanic productions; the com-
bination of these two is unrivaled anywhere. One may
weary of the quantity, but can never say he did not see
enough lava.

KAWAIBAE.

The* steamer anchors first in Kawaihae Bay, a favor-
ite station for whaleships, where they take in potatoes,
beef, and mutton. This is a fine place for fishing, and
beautiful varieties of fish are often taken from the deck
while the vessel is at anchor.’ Large shoals constantly
swim by, and this is the place to look. out for sharks.
The appliances are always at hand, and the enthusias-
tie fisherman may, if he chooses, help catch a shark.
Occasionally a whale is captured in this bay.

Kawaihae has but few houses. It is an important
port for the inland trade of Waimea and Hamakua dis-
tricts, and has an overland mail route reaching all parts

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 63

of Hawaii. Though now barren and destitute, 1b was,
in Captain Cook’s and in Vancouver’s day, an import-
ant place, thronged with inhabitants. The slopes now
denuded of trees, and desolate, save for the cattle and
sheep that have been the prime cause of their destruc-
tion, were from the summit to the shore covered with
_ ferns, creepers, ti, flowering plants and all kinds of per-
ennial vegetation and the beach was studded with vil-
lages.

To the archxologist, nearly the whole coast line
of the island of Hawaii would be deeply interesting, in
its ruins of dwellings, cultivated spots, ancient water-
courses and heathen temples of a race, diminished, dur-
ing a hundred years, from 400,000 to less than 50,000
people. The causes that contributed in the past were
war, oppressions by the rulers, chiefs, and priests,
drunkenness and heathen sacrifices. Hillis in his tour
through Hawaii, says: ‘In the days of Umi, they
said, that king after being victorious in battle over the
kings of six of the divisions of Hawai, was sacrificing
captives at Waipio, when the voice of Kuakino, his god,
was heard from the clouds, requiring more men. The
king kept sacrificing and the voice continued, calling
for more, till he had slain all his men except one, whom,
as he was a great favorite, he refused at first to give up ;
but the god being urgent, he sacrificed him also, and
the priest and himself alone remained. Upwards of
eighty victims, they added, were offered at that time,
in obedience to the audible demands of the insatiate de-
mon. About the year 1807, in the reign of Kameha-
meha the Great, a pestilence, called the kaw okuu, the
exact nature of which is not known, swept offa vast

64 HAWAITAN GUIDE BOOK.

population. It was short, sharp, and_.sudden ; a strong,
well man at dawn, was dead before dark. The smallpox,
measles, licentiousness, the changes from barbarism to
civilization, and other causes, have contributed, and the
end cannot be far distant. Justatthe harbor of Kawai-
hae, on the right, is a pagan temple or heiau, one of the
largest and most perfect on the island. Here Keoua, ri-
val of Kamehameha the Great, having been revengefully
murdered by Keeaumoku, the assassin was exposed as
a sacrifice with his slaughtered companions. This tem-
ple was built by Kamehameha the Great, to show his
veneration for the gods, to secure their favor, to
strengthen his kingdom and to offer human sacrifices.

WAIMEA.

Waimea village is distant fourteen miles from Ka-
waihae by a passable cart road, that rises about 250 feet
tothe mile. Horses may be obtained at the beach. This
place formerly had a large population, and has heen a
mission station for many years, under the charge of
Rey. L. Lyons, of the American Board of Missions.
The situation is a plain between the Kohala range of
mountains and Mauna Kea, where the trade winds
sweep across at times with tremendous force, and being
charged with moisture, at the temperature of this ele-
vated region, woolen clothes are essential and a fire in-
doors decidedly comfortable during the cooler seasons,
when the thermometer frequently averages below 55
degrées, and thin ice occasionally forms in winter.

Three miles south of Waimea are the sepulchral caves
of the ancient Hawaiians. They are not easy to find
without a guide, and have so often been disturbed and

HAWATAN GUIDE BOOK. 65

robbed, that all remains of any value have been re-
moyed by surviving relatives. Descent is a labor of
care by aid of a torch and. with feet foremost, for a vol-
cani¢c cave is black as midnight a hundred feet thick.
The torch only makes the darkness visible. The cave
is represented as perfectly airy and was formerly largely
occupied with human remains. Some were in a sitting
posture, their skin in folds like a parchment, others so. .
quiet in their repose that they seemed asleep. ‘The cave
at Keannui, with its remains, situated a few miles east
of Waimea was wantonly set on fire and its sepulchral
contents consumed many years ago,

KOHALA

Is the most northern district of Hawaii, and was once a
petty kingdom, thronged with people. It covers more
than three hundred square miles, and is latticed with
abandoned foot paths and boundary lines, showing the
minute subdivisions of the soil in those populous days.
The steamer leaving Kawaihae stops at Mabukona, a
sheltered landing under the lee of the north point of
Kohala, from whence to Iole, the center of population,
the site of two sugar plantations, isa distance of 10.
miles. The sugar house landing is near the north-
eastern point of Iole, the home of the Kamehameha,
but itis not a regular stopping place for the steamer,

Three objects of interest attract the traveler in Ko-
hala: the celebrated heiau or heathen temple of Punepu ;
the ancient water course at Iole and Waipio valley; -
and the ruins of the largest heathen temple in the Ha-
waiian Islands, situated six miles north-west of Iole,
within a few miles of the sea shore. It is three hundred

6%

66 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

and fifty feet long, one hundred and fifty wide, its walls
thirty feet thick atthe base, eight at the top and fourteen
feethigh, Thewallsarepartlyinruins. Tradition says
the stones for the construction of these monstrous walls
were passed from the valley of Polulu, twelve miles
distant, by a file of workmen standing in battle array
the whole distance. Three altars stand within the sa-
cred enclosure, and niches may yet be discovered in the
wall where the idols stood. That in the north-eastern
corner was for the great god of the temple. ‘ Human
sacrifices were favorite oblations both to the deities
loved or hated.’ Men were immolated to avert conta-
gious disease, to secure victory before war, to celebrate
triumph at its conclusion; in fact, in the absence of
cattle, sheep and goats, man was the handiest blood-sac-
rifice, and humanity perished by hecatombs.

The victims were permitted to remain on the central
altar during two whole days. On the morning of the
third day, and when putrefaction had commenced, the
bodies were removed to a large, flat stone on the
outside of the temple. This stone was placed near
the east corner of the north wall. Its dimensions
were seven feet long by five wide and it was slightly
concave. It was sacred to the purposes of immo-
lation. When the victims above alluded to, were
placed upon it, the flesh was stripped from the bones
and the latter all separated. Both flesh and bones were
then carried down to the sea and thoroughly washed.
On being conveyed back to the temple, the bones were
tied up in bundles and the flesh was consumed to ashes
at the back of the altars.

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 67
AN ANCIENT WATER COURSE.

The interest connected with this water course, lies in
the obstacles encountered and surmounted by a savage
race, destitute of iron implements and engineering tools.
The water lay in a ravine, 200 feet and more below the
land level and the problem was to take the whole
stream from the head of the ravine where it fell and
carry it on to the land below. This was done by build-
ing an embankment from the bed of the ravine to the
desired height and constructing a water course thereon.
After the embankment terminates the channel is hewn
in the sides of solid rock for more than halfa mile, and
that with stone axes and sticks of hard wood. Take it
all in all, this is the most remarkable of the relics of
ancient Hawaiian skill and labor to be found in the
whole group.

THE VALLEY OF WAIPIO.

The steamer, having left the anchorage of Mahukona
and entered the channel, encounters the full strength of
the trade winds and the head sea therewith connected.
Por hours the struggle of steam against wind continues ;
the ancient_temple is left in the distance ; Tole, the birth
place of Kamehameha I., and Polulu, the valley of
stones, are left behind, but slopes covered with verdure,
mountains clad in trees and decorated with clouds are
in close company, and will so continue until the anchor
finds smooth holding ground in Hilo Bay.

After passing Kohala point, the shore becomes bold,
terminating in perpendicular bluffs, varying from a few
hundred to two thousand feet in hight, and broken by
frequent gulches or valleys. As the steamer plows her

68 ' HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

way slowly agamst wind and current, passengers have
a fine view of some of the most captivating scenery: on
Hawaii. Precipices covered with verdure from the
summit to the water, in the dense foliage of which at,
least fifty waterfalls may be counted, opening to view,
one after another. The trip from Kohala to Laupahoe-
hoe point by water—some forty miles—furnishes an un-
broken panorama of bold palisades and tropical scenery
unsurpassed in this, group, unless it be found on the ride
overland from Waimea, to Hilo, where the traveler pass-
es through a succession. of valleys with verdure and
scenery much similar to that of these ocean palisades.
Several points are worthy of observation, and first we
notice Waipio. Not quite two miles wide at the sea, it
sweeps a circuit before it, draws its lofty volcanic sides
closer for six or more miles, when the perpendicular walls
terminate in a grand ravine two thousand five hundred
feet in depth. Over the barrier cliff of this romantic
valley, leap numerous streams full of foaming cascades,
interrupted by waterfalls. Several rivers unite to form
the two. that make the half circuit of the valley. In one
of these near the lofty southern wall, the water course
terminates on the brink of a rock one thousand six
hundred feet high. The rapid stream already foaming
among the rocks which obstructs its way, pitches down
and is broken into spray, on which the sun and the
moon at its full paint rainbows in all their perfection of
color, This valley once possessed a Aeiay and a city of
refuge, While they have passed away, even the stones
gone, it remains among the most fertile, romantic and
beautiful of the Hawaiian valleys. It is renowned as
one of the great food-producing districts, from which
Kohala and Waimea draw large supplies of kalo.

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 69
WAIPIO AS DESCRIBED BY MISS BIRD.*

‘‘ There is something fearful in the isolation of this
valley, open at one end to the sea, and walled in on all
others by palis or precipices, from 1,000 to 2,000 feet in
height, over the easiest, of which hangs the dizzy track,
which after trailing over the country for sixty difficult
miles, connects Waipio with the little world of Hilo.
* * * T do not care for any waterfall but Niagara,
nor do I care in itself for this one, for though its first
leap is 200 feet and its second 1,600, it is so frittered
away and dissipated in spray, owing to the very magni-
tude of its descent, there is no volume of water within
sight to create mass orsound. But no words can paint
the majesty of the surroundings, the caverned, precipi-
tous walls of rock coming down in one black plunge
from the blue sky above to the dark abyss of water be-
low ; the sullen shuddering sound with which pieces of
rock came hurtling down among the trees, the thin tin-
kle of the water as it falls, the full rush of the river, the
feathery growth of ferns, gigantic below, but so dimin-
ished. by the height above, as only to show their pres-
ence by the green tinge upon the rocks; while in addi-
tion to the gloom produced by the stupendous height of
the cliffs, there is a cool, green darkness of dense for-
est, and mighty trees of strange tropical forms glass
themselves in the black mirror of the basin. For one
moment a ray of sunshine turned the upper part of the
spray into a rainbow, and never to my eyes had the bow
of promise looked so heavenly as when it spanned the
black, solemn, tree-shadowed abyss, whose deep, still
_ waters only catch a sunbeam on five days of the year.”

*% «¢ Hawylian Archipelago,

70 HAWAITAN GUIDE BOOK.
HAMAKUA.

This great fertile district extends thirty miles on the
shore from Waipio valley to Laupahoehoe valley, the
boundary of Hilo district. No seaport marks it rugeed
coast exposed to the strong trade winds. xcept in the
embrasures of the ravines, that empty fresh water into
the sea, cliffs ranging from 200 +0 2000 feet high forbid
the beating waves to roll inland. A succession of val-
leys similar to Waipio greet the traveler in Hamakua.
This district is characterized by fine grazing lands
adapted to sugar cane, coffee or ramie, and towards the
mountain is thickly covered with timber.

HILO DISTRICT.

From Laupahoehoe on the north to Puna on the
south extends this large and fertile district, where the
trade winds are neutralized by the mountains, and
where the rain falls in such abundance as to keep the
land perpetually green to the water’s edge. Hxcept at
Hilo Bay, the coast is composed of bold bluff cliffs from
a hundred to upwards of 1000 feet high; these are
higher on the north and. the pali, at Laupahoehoe, is a
remarkable one. Suddenly the traveler rides on toa
point, where the road ends on the face of a cliff, above
a beach where three rows of big, combing breakers
constantly. beat against the shore. If he comes un-
warned the chances favor an instant retreat; for the
slip of the rock or a false motion would precipitate
horse and rider over a pali of 1500 or 1800 feet into a
foaming bed of surf and rocks beneath. Close to the
sea, with a narrow sand fringe on its more sheltered
side, in a cocoanut grove, lies Laupahoehoe village.

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 71

‘La, Paz,” says in one of his graphic sketches, “ Laupa-
hoehoe is a mere leaf of basaltic lava pushed out into
the sea from the narrow yalley, which formed the path-
way for the last voleanic throe of Maunakea.. We
have no doubt that the name of ‘the village is derived
from the shape of the lava point on which itis situated,
Lau-pa-hoe-hoe, meaning a leaf of lava. On the other
cliff, one mile distant, you discern horsemen and decide
that the road to Hilo lies over there, but: how to get
there. This wall extends inland for miles, a stream
rolls down its precipitous valley, plainly one must go
down before getting up the other’ side. At length the
ribbon road: wound downward on the shelying roof of
. the valley appears. From twenty minutes to half an
hour will be occupied in the descent, according as you
risk the neck of horse and rider. . More thanja score,
some say fifty similar valleys, with twice this number
of similar ribbon windings, miniature Alpine passes, lie
between Lanpahoehoe and Hilo village.”

Mountain. torrents rush through each of these passes,
and one of the wonders of this voleanic:country lies in
these gulches, with their gothic steeps that disrupt the
land for three score miles or less, pierciig: the land’s
centre. The number of waterfalls is beyond estimate,
ther height varies: from tens to thousands of feet,
and many of the streams literally /eap into the sea. A
mere sprinkle at the beach ‘often increases, higher up
the mountain, to a heavy rain, and the stream may rush
in torrents for a mile and then resume the common
course of a brook. It isnot uncommon for the traveler
to| be detained: by a swollen, stream for half a day.
Tn olden times the streams were crossed by stepping

72 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

stones. ‘lua Paz” says of this overland ronte: “As
we rode along, the rain poured, rattling among the
leaves, pattering among'the impromptu pools and drains ;
the torrents tumbled from the hills or leaped through
chasms, over frightful rocks, with a thundering sound
that jarred the cavernous earth ; the ocean waves camo
surging and groaning against the beetling cliffs like a
wail of despair, and our horses kept tumbling over a
corduroy road of mud ridges and holes of water, alter.
nating with the regularity of rice rows; a succession of
mud ridges and miniature hoo wallows.

“* Before reaching the Scotchman’s gulch, we passed
a deep chasm, where some rough stone piers indicated
where the apology for a bridge had formerly stood.
Through this swept a mad and foaming torrent, near
four feet'deep, whirling and rushing past gigantic ba-
saltic boulders, a cataract above, a waterfall below ; we
passed between this Scylla and Charybdis, and came
near being carried away by the: foaming flood. We
have crossed the Rocky Mountains six times, the Sierra
Madre of Mexico often; the voleanic chain of Central
America three times and the Andes twice ; and we here
most solemnly protest that we have never traveled a
road that gave the traveler more ups'and downs on a
sliding scale than the pathway from Laupahoehoe to
Hilo.”

SUGAR PLANTATIONS NEAR HILO.

The Kilauea, having buffeted the trades with a de-
termined perseverance, and for most of the distance
close in shore, affords a delightful view of this magnifi-
cent landscape. The blue sea and its white caps; the
bluff shore pierced with numerous embrasures, and

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 73

every one discharging a river into the sea; under favor-
able circumstances ten or more cascades may be count-
ed at one time; the sloping sides of the mountain are
green with sugar cane, bright pastures, and dense dark
foliage as the forest rises to the distant snow capped top
of Mauna Kea. The first plantation passed after leav-
ing Laupahoehoe Point, is Kaupakuea, ten miles from
the Hilo anchorage, the property of Messrs. Afong &
Achuck, Chinese merchants, who have here extensive
works run by steam and water power, with vacuum
pan, centrifugal separators and all the recent improve-
ments in sugar manufacture. The second is Onomea
Plantation, six miles from Hilo, owned and managed
by Judge S. L. Austin. Its mill, plantation houses
and manager’s residence are snugly nestled together
and make a charming picture amid the growing
cane. The appliances of this establishment are very
complete, from the drying of the cane to the grinding
of the sugar. The soil is rich and favorable to its
growth, and with a little exaggeration it may be said,
the cane enters the mill at the top and comes out in
kegs of sugar at the bottom. The smoke stack is now
of sheet iron; formerly it was a lofty tower of stone,
but was utterly destroyed in the great earthquake of
1868, showing that masonry is unavailable for such a
structure in a volcanic country. A peculiar feature of
all the Hilo sugar works, springs from the moisture of
the climate and the necessity of grinding in the rainy
season, compelling the erection of immense open sheds
or trash houses to dry the rind for fuel. The sugar
house, mill, and half a dozen trash houses give the ap-

pearance at a distance of a small village.
7

74 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

Kaiwila plantation, owned by Messrs. Hitchcock &
Co., is three miles from the village of Hilo. The fields
of cane are so near that the tasseled plumes waving over
a hundred acres, form a spectacle that cannot bé de-
scribed. This plantation has a capacity for 500 tons
perannum. The buildings are observed on the ridges,
one of which is impassable except near the sea, where a
scow ferry is maintained at government expense. A
noticeable flume crosses one of these gulches to convey
the cane across, and is more than 100 feet high and a
thousand in length; its tracery of timbers seen in the
distance appearing like a cobweb.

The plantation of Capt. Thomas Spencer at Aman-
ulu, is within the limits of Hilo, has fine water power,
and a good mill, with 3,000 acres, and its proprietor
has spared no expense to make the establishment perfect.

THE VILLAGE OF HILO.

A more beautiful panorama than that seen from the
deck of the steamer at sunrise, in Byron’s Bay, it will
be difficult to find in any country. Usually at sunrise
not a cloud is to be seen on either of the grand mount-
ains which form the background of the picture. At the
right stands Mauna Kea, seemingly higher by several
thousand feet than its more distant rival Mauna Loa.
The summits of both are in winter covered with snow,
but that of Mauna Kea is particularly beautiful, with
its serrated peaks and deep valleys, perfectly white for
miles below the summit. During the night and early
morning the cool winds blow directly down these belts
of snow, and impart to the air a refreshing and bracing
temperature. ‘The trade winds are rarely felt here, as’

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 65)

the highlands break their force and turn them to the
north and south; but in their place are the alternating
land and sea breezes, the latter prevailing during the
day and the former during the night. Hilo enjoys an
abundance of rain, and not unfrequently 150 inches fall
during the year.

In the foreground of this tropical picture, we have
the bay skirted with a line of cottages and stores, in
front of which the foamy surf is perpetually breaking
and roaring. Directly back are seen white churches
and dwellings, almost hidden among the dense fohage
which extends for miles in either direction. Hilo is cer-
tainly the most attractive and tropical-looking village
in this group; and an air of thrift and prosperity is ob-
servable everywhere in it, im the neatness and taste
surrounding its comfortable dwellings. The Court-
house occupies the centre of a square, noticeable for its
beautiful lawn, and exotic trees, and adds much to the
beauty of the village. Here under one roof are the
post-office, Governor Kipi’s and Sheriff Severance’s offi-
ces, with the police court, presided over by Judge Kai-
na, on the first floor; while the second is devoted to the
circuit court room and offices. Its location is central
and convenient for the public business of the village and
district. Mails not only arrive and leave by every steam-
er and schooner, but post riders also come and go, with
a recularity which is really marvelous, when we con-
sider the condition of the roads, thus connecting the
capital of Hawaii with every town on the island, The
correspondence despatched from the Hilo post-office
for way stations is laree,—not less than fifteen or twen-
ty thousand letters a year, The sugar interest located

76 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

near this village contributes much to its prosperity, as
a great share of the cost of maintaining these planta-
tions 1s expended among the native and foreign popula-
tion. The periodical arrival of a cargo of lumber also
facilitates the erection of frame dwellings, which are
everywhere in this neighborhood superseding thatch
huts, and thus contributing toward the health and com-
fort of the people. There are here four churches, capa-
ble of seating over one thousand persons, one seminary
with fifty students, several excellent schools for both
native and foreign children, a photograph gallery, tan-
nery, two bakeries, several blacksmith and cabinet
shops, and ten or twelve stores.

The four sugar plantations are located near the shore
to the north of the village, and extend a distance of
several miles, that of Messrs. Afong & Achuck, at Kau-
pakuea, being the farthest out, about ten miles from
the village. Planters in the vicinity of Hilo have
always labored under disadvantages, among which
are bad roads, (interrupted by frequent and deep ra-
vines), poor harbors, and excessively wet weather, which
causes rank vegetation of weeds to contend with, and
in various ways adds to the expense of sugar manufac-
ture. Yet, with all these drawbacks, this industry pros-
pers, and has proved a large benefit to the common peo-
ple and to mechanics. By the introduction of water
flames, constructed on the same principle as mining
flumes in California, a great reduction in the cost has
been made. In these flumes all the sugar cane and
wood are now floated down to the mills, for a distance
often of four or five miles. By this simple device, the
heavy cost of carts, teams and men, formerly em-

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 77

ployed in drawing cane and wood, has been greatly re-
duced, and the work expedited. There cannot be less
than thirty miles of flumes on these plantations, and as
they require to be built on a regular, inclined plane,
they are seen crossing the plantations in ‘every direc-
tion, spanning ravines and hollows, presenting the ap-
pearance at a distance of elevated truss railroad bridges:
So far, they haye served well the purpose for which
they were designed—to reduce the great expense of
transportation of crop from field to mill.

Next to Honolulu, Byron’s Bay affords to shipping
the best harbor in the group. It is not well protected
against north winds, but as these are seldom very severe
it is practically safe for shipping. The entrance is
- broad and deep, and vessels can enter or leave the bay
at any hour of the day or night. The depth of water
in the harbor or entrance is from thirty to forty feet—
sufficient for the largest steamers afloat. The south
east part of the harbor, on or near Cocoanut Island, af-
fords a fine location for wharves or anavy yard. Wai-
akea is the native name for this bay, the anchor-
age of which is N, Latitude 19° 44, and W. Longi-
tude 155° 03.

Hilo is the capital of Hawaii, the residence of the
Governor, Sheriff and executive officers, and has for
many years been a mission station of the American
Board, under the charge of Rey. T. Coan, The French
Roman Catholic mission has also a fine church here.

Hilo has ever been a favorite resort for whaleships,
Supplies, such as fruits, vegetables, beef, pork, poultry,
&c., may be generally obtained here, The following ar-
ticles are included among the exports; coffee, arrow-

q*

78 HAWAITAN GUIDE BOOK.

root, rice, pulu, fungus, goat skins, hides, tallow, leath-
er, sugar and molasses.

WATERFALLS NEAR HILO. .

In the Hilo district are several very fine waterfalls
which will repay the tourist for the toil of a visit. The
‘Rainbow Fall,” in the Wailuku stream, is the most
accessible, being within a short distance of the village,
and can be visited on foot, at any time of the day.
During the rainy season, when the stream is swollen, it
furnishes a pretty sight, overhung asit often is, with the
beautiful bow which gives to it its name. ‘The height of
the fall is only about ninety feet.

Near the Kaupakuea Plantation, ten miles from
Hilo, is one of the finest waterfalls on Hawaii. It is in
the Kohkoli river and gulch, three miles back of the
sugar mill, and is known as the “ Akaka Falls.” To
reach it, the tourist will have to go on horseback and
with a guide, part of the road being through a dense
thicket. Arriving at the falls, he will be amply paid for
the trouble taken. The stream is about as wide as the
Wailuku at Hilo, and the height of the fall 560 feet, the
stream falling unbroken into a deep basin below. The
scenery around this waterfall is wild and romantic in
the extreme, and when the river is swollen, it affords a
sight of rare beauty.

TO THE VOLCANO KILAUEA,

Two routes may be taken to the crater Kilauea, on
the slope of Mauna Loa, one by Puna, the other by Olaa.
Tt will be advisable to combine both, by going one way
and returning the other. ‘Time being an object, the

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 79

trip to and from the crater via Olaa can be accomplished
in three days, which will give one day and two nights
at the volcano house.

The Puna route leaves Hilo by way of the bay beach,
through cocoanut groves, bamboo thickets and fish
ponds across the Waiahuma and the Waiakea bridge,
through the bread-fruit orchard, out of Hilo village into
the uneven pasture land of Waiakea, whose broad acres
soon become thickly set with the pandanus, (screw
palm,) and after four or five miles enters the forest that
stretches from the ocean to the limit of vegetation on
Mauna Loa. The vegetation throughout this tract
is fully as luxuriant as that near Panama or on
the borders of the Amazon; itis perhaps the most ac-
cessible to strangers of any tropical jungle on the islands
and forms one of the wonders of the volcanictrip. In
its flowering season the forest is gay with red and yel-
low, and the parasitic creepers, the deze, seem aflame
with color. Birds, native and imported, keep this flower
garden alive with motion and with song: noteworthy
the black 00 whose wings hide the rare, yellow feathers
used for the royal mantles of the ancient chiefs. Some
of the ohia trees are 60 or 80 feet high, and are often
seen in full bloom to the very tops, while the under-
growth of strawberries and ferns is next to impenetra-
ble. This continues for three or four miles, and then
follow groves of the pandanus, and at Kaea the ocean
appears and the housesin Puna. Cocoanut trees here
begin to form a prominent part of the landscape, clus-
tered in groups of hundreds and thousands.

Twenty-five miles of fair riding will carry the traveler
to the comfortable ranch of Capt. Hldarts, who enter.

80 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

tains guests for a reasonable compensation. This vicin-
ity is noticeable for the ancient heiau upon a palm crown-
ed cone; for a fresh water reservoir in an extinct cra-
ter; for a hot water cave; and for an open stone basin,
below a lofty cliff which contains a pool of warm, blue
water that sparkles when stirred. The temperature is
so delightful that a half hour’s bath is delicious, The
greatest depth is not less than 18 feet, and the water is
80 buoyant as to make diving difficult, This section of
Puna is quite fertile, whenever soil for cultivatlon can
be fonnd. Bread-fruit and cocoanuts are abundant.
After a good rest at Hidart’s the route continues over a
vast tract of rough lava, on which the ohia woods are
beginning to secure firm and permanent hold; the sea
is skirted by successive rows of cocoanut trees, some so
thickly planted as to hide the ground from the rays of
the sun. Highteen miles of road rough and smooth,
volcanic scenery variegated by bread-fruit, guaya, ohia,
pandanus and cocoanut trees, and interspersed with
miniature churches and grass houses, ends the journey
at Kaimu, near the sea, where comfortable quarters
for the night may be obtained at a native house. The
next day, after a warm and tedious ride of six or more
hours over lava flows ancient and recent, lava waves,
lava billows, lava sand, lava ashes, lava cinders, lava
smooth and lava rough, lava marked, barren and deso-
late, and lava grass-clad in spots, fern-hid, tree-covered,
and in places densely tangled with impenetrable parasitic
vegetation, the Crater of Kilauea and the Volcano
House are reached by the Puna route in three days from
Hilo, .

The short route to Kilauea Crater, leads out of Hilo

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 81

village by Volcano street, adorned with white cottages
in flower gardens shaded by fruit and ornamental trees.
The road soon becomes densely fenced with the ohz
bush, then crosses the end of theefamous Waiakea fish
ponds and only fairly starts in the wilderness after pass-
ing Gov. Lyman’s cattle ranch in Waiakea. It is no
broad macadamized thoroughfare, and will try the pa-
tience of most travelers. Ten miles bring the traveler
into the magnificent woods with their gorgeous trees,
plants, creepers, ferns, and thick undergrowth, conspicu-
ous with many colored flora of the woods.

Fifteen miles from Hilo Olaa is reached, the half-way
stopping place. The intermediate territory is covered
with ¢¢ plant and ferns, while the road consists mostly
of pahoehoe lava, scantily covered with bunch grassand
occasional bushes and trees.

“The Half-way House” at Olaa is merely a cluster
of grass houses, a. passable rest for travelers, who wish
to spend the night, and obtain pasturage for horses.
Here several orange trees display their rich fruitin sight
of the road. Although this point is 1188 feet above
the sea level, and ten miles from Keaau, (the nearest
point on the sea shore) the roar of the sea may be dis-
tinctly heard during a heavy surf. Leaving Olaa, the
route is over pahoehoe in allits varieties, thickly covered
with wild grass, straggling ferns, creeping vines, and
that vegetation which in tropical lands seeks only water
to become impenetrable. Fires have swept over parts of
the adjoming land and the blackened rocks with their
scant supplies of soil, demonstrate how little alluvial
earth nature requires to run wild, when it has plenty of
light, warmth and moisture.

82 HAWAIIAN G UIDE BOOK.

Here the ascent hitherto very gradual becomes more
rapid, reaches into a second rim of Koa woods, becomes
more level and after a short gallop, the traveler finds
himself, (eight hours rom Hilo,) on the brink of the fa-
mous crater, and, four thousand feet above the level of
the sea, dismounts from his tired animal and enters the

VOLCANO HOUSE,

Which is a commodious thatch house, standing on a
‘grassy plat, under the lee of a hill which partially shel-
ters it from the damp and chilly east wind that sweeps
over the crater. It is a comfortable one story house,
built expressly to accommodate tourists, having ample
accommodations for all parties that have made the trip
in the last ten years. The enclosure is extensive, the
out-buildings are commodions, the table well spread, and
if previous notice is given, special effort is made to far-
nish every tropical luxury in season. The temperature
here often approaches the freezing point, and an open
fire in an old-fashioned chimney, throwing its shadows
over the walls, and comfortable easy chairs, give the
stranger a home feeling even on the brink of a crater.
The sleeping rooms open out of this common parlor;
their windows look directly into the pit, and atany hour
of the night, by turning the head, the flames and re-
flection may be seen, now like an aurora borealis ; now
like a prairie on fire ; now like a burning city, and again
like a fan of flame. The Volcano House is under the
management of Messrs. Stackpole and Gilman, one of
whom is generally on hand to welcome travelers.
Guides and every convenience for descent are always in
readiness and await an order.

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 83
HOT SULPHUR STEAM BATHS AND SULPHUR BANKS.

Some few rods to the right of the Volcano House, a
steam-crack has been harnessed into use by Yankee in-
vention. A bath house is built and a steam-box fash-
ioned, where any desired heat from simple moisture to
boiling may be controlled at will. This sulphur bath is
most refreshing, resting the system and preparing it for
a night of sweetest repose.

North-west of the Volcano House, less than a quarter
of a mile, are Sulphur Banks, several hundred yards in
extent and twenty or thirty feet high. The sulphurous
steam is not very highly charged with noxious gas and
the traveler may with safety collect the crystals that
abound in this formation. The finest are by the side of
miniature cones or blow-holes and must be carefully de-
tached as they break easily, especially when moist and
warm. Theslopesare damp and slippery from the con-
stant steam which escapes'in clouds from a crevice of:
the cleft where are wonderfully fine specimens of pend-
ent flowers in pure and stained sulphur. The rock in
various directions, near and remote, is penetrated with
steam fissures, whence clouds continually puff forth ;
which condensed, make delicious drinking water.

THE DESCENT INTO KILAUEA.

Probably no two visitors ever see Kilauea alike, their
emotions may be similar, but absolute likeness is impos-
sible, when the restless fiery lava is producing constant
. change; but of all the descriptions yet published
of this wonderful exhibition of nature, we have seen
none which equals in truth and vividness that of Miss
I. L, Bird, a Scotch lady who visited these islands in

84 HAWAITAN GUIDE BOOK.

1874, and has since issued a book descriptive of her
travels.* She writes:

* We think of a voleanoasacone. This Kilauea is
a different thing, The abyss, which really is at a hight
of nearly 4,000 feet on the flank of Mauna Loa, has the
appearance of a great pit on a rolling plam. But such
a pit! It is nine miles in circumference, and its lowest
area, which not long ago fell about 300 feet, just as ice on
a pond falls when the water below it is withdrawn, covers
six square miles. The depth of the crater varies ftom
800. to 1,100 feet in different years, according as the
molten sea below is at flood or ebb. Signs of volcanic
activity are present more or less throughout its whole
depth, and for some distance round its margin, in the
form of steam cracks, jets of sulphurous vapor, blowing
cones, accumulating deposits of acicular crystals of sul-
phur, &c., and the pit itself is constantly rent and shak-
en by earthquakes. Grand eruptions occur at intervals
with circumstances of indescribable terror and dignity,
but Kilauea does not limit its activity to these outbursts,
but has exhibited its marvellous phenomena throngh all
known time in a lake or lakes in the southern part of
the crater three miles from this side.

“This lake, the Hale-mau-mau, or House of Hver-
lasting Fire of the Hawaiian mythology, the abode of
the dreaded goddess Pele, is approachable with safety
except during aneruption. The spectacle, however, va-
ries almost daily, and at times the level of the lava in
the pit within a pit is so low, and the suffocating gases
are evolved in such enormous quantities, that travelers
are unable to see anything. There had been no news

* « Hawaiian Archipelago.’ London, 1875.

a NI te a te

. HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 85
from it for a week, and as nothing was to be seen but a
very faint bluish vapor hanging round its margin, the
prospect was not encouraging, * * ¥*

“The first descent down the terminal wall of the cra-
ter is very precipitous, butit and the slope which extends
to the second descent are thickly covered with ohias,
ohelos (a species of whortleberry), sadlerias, polopodi-
ums, silver grass, and a) great variety of bulbous plants,
many of which bore clusters of berries of a brilliant tur-
quoise blue. The ‘‘ beyond” looked terrible. I could
not help clinging to these vestiges of the kindlier mood
of nature in which she sought to cover the horrors she
had wrought. The next descent is over rough blocks
and ridges of broken lava, and appears to form part of
a break whioh extends irregularly round the whole cra-
ter, and which probably marks a tremendous subsidence
of its floor. Here the last apparent vegetation was left
behind, and the familiar earth. We were in a new Plu-
tonic region of blackness and awful desolation, the ac-
customed sights and sounds of nature all gone. Terra-
ces, cliffs, lakes, ridges, rivers, mountain sides, whirl-
pools, chasms of lava surrounded us, solid, black, and
shining, as if vitrified, or an ashen gray, stained yellow
with sulphur here and there, or white with alum. The
lava wag fissured and upheaved everywhere by earth-
quakes, hot underneath, and emitting a hot breath.

“After more than an hour of very difficult climbing
we reached the lowest level of the crater, pretty nearly
a mile across, presenting from above the appearance of
a sea at rest, but-on crossing it we found it to be an ex-
panse of waves and convolutions of ashy-colored lava,
' with huge cracks filled up with black iridescent rolls of
8

86 HAWAITAN GUIDE BOOK.

lava, only a few weeks old. Parts of it are very rough
and ridgy, jammed together like field ice, or compacted
by rolls of lava which may have swelled up from beneath,
but the largest part of the area presents the appearance
of huge coiled hawsers, the ropy formation of the lava
rendering the illusion almost perfect. These are riven
by deep cracks which emit hot sulphurous vapors.
Strange to say, in one of these, deep down in that black
and awful region, three slender metamorphosed ferns
were growing, three exquisite forms, the fragile heralds
of the great forest of vegetation, which probably in com-
ing years will clothe this pit in beauty. Truly they
seemed to speak of the love of God. Onourright there
was a precipitous ledge, and a recent flow of lava had
poured over it, cooling as it fell into columnar shapes as
symmetrical as those of Staffa. It took us a full hour
to cross this deep depression, and as long to master a
steep hot ascent of about 400 feet, formed by a recent
lava-flow from Hale-mau-mau into the basin. This la-
va hillis an extraordinary sight—a flood of molten stone,
solidifying as it ran down the declivity, forming arrest-
ed waves, streams, eddies, gigantic: convolutions, forms
of snakes, stems of trees, gnarled roots, crooked water
pipes, all involved and contorted on a gigantic scale, a
wilderness of force and dread. Over one steeper place
the lava had run in a fiery cascade about 100 feet wide.
Some had reached the ground, some had been arrested
midway, but all had taken the aspect of stems of trees.
In some of the crevices I picked up a quantity of very
curious filamentose lava, known as “ Pele’s hair.” Itre-
sembles coarse spun glass, and is of a greenish or yellow-
ish-brown color. In many places the whole surface of

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 87

the lava is covered with this substance seen through a
glazed medium. During eruptions, when fire-fountains
play to a great height, and drops of lava are thrown in
all directions, the wind spins them out in clear green or
yellow threads two or three feet long, which catch and
adhere to projecting points.

«“ As we ascended, thé flow became hotter under our
feet, as well as more porous and glistening. It was so
hot that a shower of rain hissed as it fell uponit. The
crust became increasingly insecure, and necessitated our
walking in single file with the guide in front, to test the
security of the footing, I fell through several times, and
always into holes full of sulphurous steam, so malig-
nantly acid that my strong dog-skin gloves were burned
through as I raised myself on my hands. * * *

“ Suddenly, just above, and in front of us, gory drops
were tossed in air, and springing forwards we stood on
the brink of Hale-mau-mau, which was about 35 feet be-
low us. I think we all screamed, I know we all wept,
but we were all speechless, for a new glory.and terror had
been added to the earth. It is the most unutterable of
wonderful things, The words of common speech are
quite useless. It is unimaginable, indescribable, a sight
to remember for ever, a sight, which at once took poss-
ession of eyery faculty of sense: and soul, removing one
altogether out of the range of ordinary life. Here was
the real “bottomless pit’’—‘the fire which is not
quenched ”—‘“the place of hell’”—‘the lake which
burneth with fire and brimstone’’—the “everlasting
burnings ”’—the fiery sea whose waves are never weary.
There were groanings, rumblings, and detonations,
rushings, hissings, and splashings, and the crashing

88 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

sound of breakers on the coast, but it was the surging
of fiery waves upon a fiery shore. But what ean I
write! Such words as jets, fountains, waves, spray,
convey some idea of order and regularity, but here there
was none. The inner lake, while we stood qhere, form-
ed a sort of crater within itself, the whole lava sea rose
about three feet, a blowing cone about eight feet high
was formed, it was never the same two minutes togeth-
er. And what we saw had no existence a month ago, .
and probably will be changed in n every essential feature
a month hence.

‘What we did see was one irregularly-shaped lake,
possibly 500 feet wide at its narrowest part and nearly
half a mile at its broadest, almost divided into two by a
low bank of lava, which extended nearly across it where
it was narrowest, and which was raised visibly before our
eyes. The sides of the nearest part of the lake were ab-
solutely perpendicular, but nowhere more than 40 feet
high ; but opposite to us on the far side of the larger
lake they were bold and craggy, and probably not less
than 150 feet high. On one side there was an expanse
entirely occupied with blowing cones, and jets of steam
or vapor. The lake has been known to sink 400 feet,
and a month ago it overflowed its banks. The promi-
nent object was fire in motion, but the surface of the
double lake was continually skinning over for a second
or two with a cooled crust of a lustrous grey-white, like
frosted silver, broken by jagged cracks of a bright rose
color. The movement was nearly always from the sides
to the centre, but the movement of the centre itself ap-
peared independent and always took a southerly direc-
tion. Before each outburst of agitation there was

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 89

much hissing and a throbbing internal roaring, as of im-
prisoned gases. Now it seemed furious, demoniacal, as
if no power on earth could bind it, then playful and
sportive, then for a second languid, but only because it
was accumulating fresh force. On our arrival eleven
fire fountains were playing joyously round the lakes.
and sometimes the six of the nearer lake ran together
in the centre to go wallowing down in one vortex, from
which they reappeared bulging upwards, till they form-
ed a huge cone 30 feet high, which plunged downwards
in a whirlpool only to reappear in exactly the previous
number of fountains in different parts of the lake, high
leaping, raging, flmging themselves upward. Some-
times the whole lake, abandoning its usual centripetal
motion, as if impelled southwards, took the form of
mighty waves, and surging heavily against the partial
barrier with a sound like the Pacific surf, lashed, tore,
covered it, and threw itself over it in clots of living fire.
It was all confusion, commotion, force, terror, glory,
majesty, mystery, and even beauty. And the color!
“Hye hath not seen” it! Molten metal has not that
crimson gleam, nor blood that living light! Had I not
seen this, I should never have known that such a color
was possible.

“The crust perpetually wrinkled, folded over, and
cracked, and great pieces were drawn downwards to be
again thrown up on the crests of waves. The eleven
fountains of gory fire played the greater part of the
time, dancing round the lake with a strength of joyous-
ness which was absolute beauty. Indeed after the first
half hour of terror had gone by, the beauty of these jets
made a profound impression upon me, aud the sight of

8*

90 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

of them must always remain one of the most fascinating
recollections of my life. During three hours, the bank
of lava which almost divided the lakes rose considera-
bly, owing to the cooling of the spray as it dashed over
it, and a cavern.of considerable size was formed within
it, the roof of which was hung with fiery stalactites,
more than,a foot long. Nearly the whole time the sur-
ges of the further lake taking a southerly direction,
broke with a tremendous noise on ‘the bold.cragey cliffs
which are its southern boundary, throwing their gory
spray to a height of fully forty feet. At times an over-
hanging crag fell in, creating avast splash of fire and
increased commotion.

“« Almost close below us there was an intermittent jet
of lava, which kept cooling round what was possibly a
blow-hole forming a cone with an open top, which when
we first saw it was about six feet high on its highest
side, and about as many in diameter. Up this cone or
chimney heayy jets of lava were thrown every second or
two, and cooling as they fell over its edge, raised it rap-
idly before our,eyes, Its fiery interior, and the singu-
lar sound with which the lava was yomited up, were
very awful. There was no smoke rising from the lake,
only a faint blue vapor which the wind carried in the op-
posite direction. The heat was excessive. We were
obliged to stand the whole time, and the soles of our
boots were burned, and my ear and one side of my face
were blistered. Although there was nosmokefrom the
lake itself, there was an awful region to the westward,
of smoke, and sound, and rolling clouds of steam and
vapor whose phenomena it was not safe to investigate,
where the blowing cones are, whose fires last night ap-

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 91

peared stationary. We were able to stand quite near
the margin, and look down into the lake, as you look
into the sea from the deck of a ship, the only risk being
that the fractured ledge might give way.

“ Before we came away, a new impulse seized the lava.
The fire was thrown toa great height ; the fountains and
jets all wallowed together; new ones appeared, and
danced joyously round. the margin, then converging to-
wards the centre they merged into one glowing mass,
which upheaved itself pyramidally and disappeared with
a vastplunge. Then innumerable billows.of fire dashed
themselves into the air, crashing and lashing, and the
lake dividing itself recoiled on either side, then hurling
its fires together and rising as if by upheaval from be-
low, it surged .over the temporary rim which it had
formed, passing down in.a slow majestic flow, leaving
the central surface swaying and dashing in fruitless
agony as if sent on some errand it failed to accomplish.

“ Warewell, I fear for ever, to the glorious Hale-mau-
mau, the grandest type of force that the earth holds!
“ Break, break, break,” on through the coming: years.

‘*No more by thee my steps shall be,
No more again forever !”

THE DISTRICT OF KA-U,

Which commences at the crater of Kilauea, extends to
about ten miles beyond or north of the south point of
this island, and includes hundreds of square miles
devastated by eruptions. Leaving the volcano, the road
winds around the Ima Pele (crater pit) in sight of its
black walls, and over the strawberry and ohelo beds, on
andon. Distance, in this region, cannot be accurately

92 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

measured by the eye, as many a long gallop will prove.
Ashes, sand and lava prevail hour after hour, to be suc-
ceeded by clinkers and pahoehoe, with a few scatter-
ing trees. The tragic camp where the army of Keoua
met its terrible destruction, is in this vicinity. Bing-
ham says, “ It may be briefly stated, on the authority of
natives who were cotemporary with Keoua and Kame-
hameha, and who represent themselves as having been
witnesses, that while they encamped two days and three
nights at the crater of Kilauea, there were repeated
eruptions or the sending up of flame and smoke, cinders
and stones. On the third day they set forward towards
Kau. ‘The earth trembled and shook under their feet,
a dense dark cloud arose from the immense crater, light-
ning and thunder burst forth over their heads, and dark-
ness covered them, and a shower of cinders and sand,
thrown high from the crater, descended on the region
round about, and great numbers of Keoua’s men were
killed and were found there many days afterward,
apparently unchanged, and were at first mistaken for
a living company.”

Near the verge of the broad lava field, ten or more
miles from Kilauea, are caves, some of narrow limits ;
one, an ancient burial place, has two mauka (mountain-
ward) and two makati (sea-ward) corridors, extending
several miles. ‘They are unexplored, and will probably
remain so forever, unless some traveler, more daring
than any who have preceded him, is found to accom-

plish the task.
REED’S RANCH,

At Kapapala, is a tract of land bounded by the ocean
and the sky, or as high on Mauna Loa as grass can

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 93

grow, and has an extent of pasturage like a pampas in
Brazil. At the shore the cattle are tame and form a
rich herd; but in the upper forest region they are wild,
and are hunted only for their hides. The proprietor
counts cattle, sheep, goats and acres by the tens of
thousands. Here the stranger is sure of a cordial
reception, and at this point preparations may be made
for the ascent of the 14,000 feet elevation to the sum-
mit crater of Mokuaweoweo.

ASCENT OF MAUNA LOA.

The frequent excursions made by travelers during
the past three years to the top of this mountain, have
dispelled the terrors which former travelers had thrown
over its rough gorges and broken clinker a-a lava fields.
Hven ladies have conquered the untrod heights, and
have seen Mokuaweoweo in irruption. Douglass, the
ill-fated Hnglish explorer, first described the summit as
“twenty-four miles in circumference, and in terrible
activity! The interior a tremendous sunken fire five
miles square, being a lake of liquid fire sometimes
tranquil, sometimes rolling its blazing waves with furi-
ous agitation and casting them upwards in columns of
from 380 to 170 feet high.” The greatest depth,
_ mneasured by a line and plummet, was found to be 1270
feet. The American missionary Goodrich made the
ascent previously, but did not see the crater in action.
Mr. Douglass was 17 days in performing the trip, and
subsequently lost his life on this same mountain.

In the winter of 1840 Com. Wilkes left Kilauea
December 18th, with a large company of officers,
sailors and natives and reached the crater on the 22d.

94 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

The wind blew a gale over the snow-covered summit,
the thermometer fell to 13 ° Fah., and two men, a sailor
and a native, died. from exposure.

-Mokuaiweoweo remained inactive until August, 1872,
and on Sept. 2d of that year, a party numbering twelve,
of whom the compiler was one, left Honolulu by steam-
er, reached Kaalualu, Kau, on the 4th, obtained horses
at Waiohinu for the ascent and the trip to Hilo; left at
9 A. M. of the 5th, reaching Kapapala, distant 24
miles, the same evening. Thence at 3 P. M. of the 6th,
the party with guide and five attendants began the
actual ascent, so gradual that in three hours, ten miles
brought them to the mountain station of this ranch,
where the party spent the night. At six the next
morning they left this last habitation, rode three hours
through a succession of ohia and koa groves by an easy
grade to the “camping ground,’ nine miles from the
mountain station, and sixteen from the ranch, at an
elevation of 7,000 feet. Here they left their superfin-
ous baggage, lunched and started afresh, following the
guide through bushes becoming more scanty, until at
the end of three miles, no sign of vegetation could be
seen. The face of the mountain is very rough; the
remaining twelve miles leading over desolate lava rock.
At5 P. M. Sept. 5th, after fourteen traveling hours
they stood on the brink of

MO-KUA-WEO-WEO.

This crater on the summit of Manna Loa.is in the
centre of its vast dome, nearly 14,000 feet above the
sea; itis oblong and about 8,000 feet in length, by
Wilkes’ survey of 1840; its eastern wall 470, and its

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 95

western 784 feet deep. In 1840 the floor of the crater
was level; m 1872 one-third of the floor was depressed
two or three hundred feet below the rest. In this sink,
midway between the north and south wall, and near
the western extremity, is the new crater. Action began
Aug. 9th and has since been almost incessant, throwing
up a fountain of crimson lava, estimated at 200 feet
high. ‘The party were somewhat affected by the moun-
tain sickness, but camped at the brink of the crater for
the night, and returned next morning, reaching the
mountain station at 4 P.M. The total distance from
Kaalualu to the summit is 61 miles, and from Hilo to
the same point 66 miles. Simce that date, the crater
has been visited by numerous parties, most of whom
found it in action. One visitor, Mr. W. W. Hall, in
the autumn of 1873, succeeded in making a descent
into the abyss, and approaching nearer to the fountain
than any other party. His description published in the
“ Hawaiian Gazette” of Jan. 18th, 1874, as well as
that of the Hditor of this Guipn Boox, published in
September, 1872, are minute in detail, and may interest
travelers, who propose making the trip.

WAIOHINU, KAU,

' Leaving Kapapala ranch, the road crosses the mud
flow of 1868, ejected three miles during the heavy earth-
quake. At the road it is 30 feet deep and half a mile
across, but is now overgrown with grass and weeds.
A full account of this anomaly in volcanic nature, and
also a condensed account of this and all previous known
eruptions, may be found in the last, edition of Jarves’
History.* Continuimg to the sea, the scene of the de-

* History of the Hawaiian Islands, 4th Edition, Honolulu, 1872, p, 229,

96 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOR.

vastation of the tidal wave is traversed and several new
villages appear in place of those destroyed.

The road to Waiohinu is barren, hot and desolate,
yet not without botanic interest in showing the rapidity
with which nature repairs injuries, This village of
Waiohinu, the name signifying in Hawaiian, “ shining
water,” is the paradise of Kau, and here Hon. Thos.
Martin, a noble specimen of the half-caste race, dis-
penses the hospitalities of the place, and exhibits the
advanced civilization of Hawaii most worthily.

KEALAKERUA.

High above the sea, along which the coast is almost
impassable from its jagged hills of broken lava, ‘the
government road winds over rough pahoehoe and a-a
lava, where recent and remote eruptions have left their
ruins ; occasional bursts of vegetation and glimpses of
tropical luxuriance relieve the scene, but the sixty long
miles are a dreary, hot and fatiguing ride, and the
hours monotonous until the beach and its cocoanut
groves are reached. Thence on, the lava rock is more
passable and the horses may gallop rapidly through
groves and villages to the classic land of Hawaii,—
Kaawaloa and Kealakekua, where the king among
kings, Keawe o Keawe, dwelt; where Captain Cook |
was received and worshipped as a god and then slain ;
where was the sacred refuge of Honaunau ; the “House
of Keawe,” and mausoleum of the ancient chiefs of the
land. Along this rocky shore there were fought the
early conflicts between paganism and christianity ; here
was the first royal violation of the terrible taboo, and on
these rocks, between Kailua and Kaawaloa, the party

HAWAITAN GUIDE BOOK. OF

of progress fought and won their first victory in blood,
before a Christian missionary trod the soil of Hawaii.

On the rocky shore ‘of Kaawaloa, within a stone’s
throw of the steamer’s wharf, may be seen the monu-
ment erected in 1874, under the direction of the British
Commissioner, to mark the spot where Captain Cook
was murdered. It is a plain shaft of concrete stone,
bearing an inscription to the memory of the celebrated
nayigator. The story of his death may be found in
Jarves’ History, pp. 54—64,

KAILUA.

The bays on this Kona coast, each bordered by the
white beach and cocoanut trees, are perfect gems of
tropical scenery, in which the back-ground of mountain
and fore-ground of ocean, with little villages between,
fit like apples of gold m pictures of silver. Jailua ig
one of these gems. The coast is rocky, hot and uncul-
tivated, but two or three miles from the shore, the
mountains are covered with woods, orange and cofiee
groves and luxuriant vegetation. The tourist, how-
ever, will soon exhaust all of attraction that the region
affords, and taking the steamer will gladly glide alone
the black and barren coast to Kawajhae Bay, satisfied
and richly paid for the toil connected with the circuit
of the island of Hawaii. If however, his ardor is un-
abated, the ascent of

MAUNA: KEA
Yet remains, the highest land in the group. Waimea,
ten miles from Kawaihae, is the pomt from which to
commence the ascent. Generally horse and guide can

be obtained at short notice, and when an early start is
9

98 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

made, the summit can be reached by sundown. The
top of this mountain differs very much from that of
Mauna Loa, which is extremely level, while this ig
broken into a number of peaks, divided by deep valleys.
Travelers should go prepared to spend one or more
nights on the summit, the view from which is exceed-
ingly grand, while the atmosphere at night is about
40 ° in the warmest months.

WAIMANU VALLEY.

Among the noteworthy places which the traveler
can visit is this valley, which is near the shore, and
a few miles southeast of Waipio, which it resembles
in its principal features, but surpasses in the height of
its walls, which are not far from 2500 feet. Except in
the rainy season, its stream is small, and its waterfalls
are less attractive. Jt is more maccessible, and on this
account more seldom visited than its rival, Waipio.
Guides can always be found to conduct the tourist to
both places.

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 99

ISLAND OF KAUAL.

This, the northernmost of the Hawaiian group, with
its cooling breezes, has been aptly named the ‘“ Garden
of Hawaii.” It is nearly circular, has an area of 520
square miles, one-half of which is adapted to grazing
and agriculture. It lies between 21° 47’ and 22° 46°
north latitude, while its eastern point is in longitude
159° 18’ and its western extremity reaches 159° 55’
west.

This island is unrivaled for its agreeable climate
and with its charming valleys, broad plains, picturesque
cliffs, views, waterfalls and lofty mountains, it offers
attractions to the traveler unexcelled by any other in
the group. By the monthly trip of the inter-island
steamer, a finé opportunity is offered for a short visit
and a circuit of the island, while regular schooners run
weekly between Honolulu and its various ports,

The roads and bridges on the island of Kanai, are
said to be the best in the group. It is quite possible to
drive in a light vehicle from Hanalei to Mana point, a
distance of 65 miles.

NAWILIWILI BAY.

This beautiful little cove affords an anchorage for
vessels of less than 500 tons burthen. The outer bar
has three fathoms of water, and the anchorage is open
to heavy swells when the south-east winds blow, rend-

100 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

ering it at such times unsafe; but Niumalu at the
mouth of the river is a safe shelter for small craft
in all seasons. ‘This place is the residence of the Goy-
ernor and other officers of the island.

Leaving the steamer, going inland, the mountains
and valleys will be found covered with forests, except~
ing where fires and the woodman’s ax have denuded
the land. The high shore plain which forms here, ex-
tending with varying width around the southern, east-
ern and northern sides of the island, is a region of
grass and shrubbery, shaded with occasional groves of
pandanus and kukui trees. On this windward side of
Kauai, the mountain tops are covered with rain clouds,
and the declivities are threaded with white cascades
streaming down almost vertically in uninterrupted
lines, one, two, and even three thousand feet.

LIHUE,

Two miles inland from the bay, is the site of one of the
pioneer sugar plantations, which is worthy of note, for
its extent and its success, but particularly for its system
of irrigation, by means of a canal which brings the
mountain water over a distance of ten miles to every
cane field. The estate is the property of a Joint Stock
Company, of which Mr. Paul Isenberg is the resident
manager and part owner. It comprises about ten
thousand acres, running from the shore to the moun-
tains and including extensive tracts of level plains,
from Nawiliwili Bay to Wailua River, sufficient for
several sugar estates. It is considered one of the best
conducted and most profitable plantations in the group,
as ib is one of the oldest.

Between Lihue and Koloa is a precipitous basaltic

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 101

range of hills, where the ancient chiefs battled for
supremacy, and where one bold warrior, the last of his
defeated clan, made a frightful leap from a beetling
crag into the river and thus made his escape.

Leaving Lihue, and proceeding northward towards
Hanalei, two roads present almost equal claims to the
rider. The one along the sea is by way of Honomaulu
river to the mouth of Wailua river, where a shallow
harbor separates it from the ocean. Here the surf
often breaks heavily, shifting the sands and thus ford-
ing becomes dangerous. The other road, which is per-
haps the pleasanter, lies inland over a plain to Wailua
river above

THE FALLS.

The road here descends from the high plain to a low
marshy flat near the sea, with here and there banks of
sand, and dense groves of hau trees. A ferry of fifty
yards takes horse and rider over for five cents. Wailua
river, seven miles from Lihue, is the deepest on the
islands, being twenty fathoms not far from its mouth.
No one should fail to ascend this stream in a canoe, as
its rich, wild palisades and tropical scenery ure worth
seeing. The falls are magnificent after a heavy rain.
Approaching them from above, without warning, an
abyss of 180 feet opens its wonders to the eye. Black
and emerald rocks, beautiful ferns, fleecy foam and
silver gleamings among leafy trees combine with the
roar and mist in unrivaled beauty and grandeur. The
breadth of the fall is fifty feet, and at low water it pours
its larger sheet on one side; the other is so thin as -to
make each drop seem to fall by itself. But when the
winter rains set in, the banks are full, and crossing

9*

102 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

above is impossible; then the roar of rushing water is
incessant and the sight is sublime. ‘Two cascades may
be found higher up the river, one 70 and the other 100
feet high.

Not far from the falls, on the brink of a small crater,
may be seen the remains of a large mansion, embowered
im exotic trees and shrubbery, formerly the head
quarters of an extensive cattle ranch and dairy.

The village of Wailua by the sea, once large and
populous, was the home of the famous Queen Kapule,
better known .as Deborah, the favorite wife of Kaumu-
alii, the last king of Kauai.

MAUNA WAIALEALE,

This is the central peak of Kauai, and its ridges
overtop all others. Its sides are precipitous, well clad
in green, and interspersed with cascades and waterfalls.
The scenery of this and other mountains, less hi¢h but
piercing the plain below with sharp, green spurs or
peaks, broken, tottering and craggy, variegate the scene
to the distant ocean’s horizon.

The excursion to its summit is considered a most
difficult feat, but to those who can bear the necessary
fatigue and exposure, it will repay the effort. It can
only be made on foot, and with a guide, and will occupy
at least three days; one night being generally spent at
or near the top. The trip will furnish to the botanist,
or the conchologist in search of land-shells, a rare oppor-
tunity to gratify his curiosity and pursue his scientific

researchse.
FROM WAILUA TO HANALEI.

On leaving the falls, evidences of a dense population
passed away, occur on every side in dried taro patches,

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOR. 103

abandoned water ways and houses marked only by their
rude foundations. An ancient battle ground may be
found a few miles north of Wailua.

At Kealia, nine miles northward from the falls, is
the rauch of Mr. E. Krull, and roaming over the broad
pastures, may be seen thousands of sleek cattle, which
are raised. chiefly for their hides and tallow.

At Kilauea, eight miles further on, is the residence
of Mr. Chas. Titeomb, whose extensive farm is one of
the finest localities for raising sugar cane, coffee or ramie,
to be found on the islands. :

Kalihiwai valley, six miles from Hanalei, has beanti- |
ful banks, and the river is remarkable for numerous
cascades. Between this valley and Hanalei, the rolling
upland is covered with a lauhala forest, reaching to the
old silk works of Mr. Titcomb, which were located near
the river. Some of these upland tracts, where water
can be brought on to them from the neighboring
streams, furnish the best of cane land, and will eventu-
ally be cultivated with sugar cane or tobacco.

HANALEL,

This name covers not only a river and bay, but a
district raised some hundred feet above the sea, com-
prising 20,000 acres of fine arable lands, well watered,
especially in its eastern portion which has at least
twenty streams. Sugar cane grows spontaneously and
the leaves of the multicaulis attam the enormous size
of fifteen inches in length by twelve im breadth.

Hanalei harbor is on the north side of the island,
affording good anchorage, except in northwest winds
which blow usually in the winter months. And even

104 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

in strong gales, small vessels with good ground tackle
can lie safely under the lee of the reef, opposite the
mouth of the river. The view from the anchorage has
' been pronounced by travelers as one of the finest in the
world. Hanalei river is lined with luxuriant foliage,
and a boat ride on its smooth bosom, in a bright moon-
light, rivals the Arabian Nights enchantment. Its gar-
dens contain the olive, pomegranate, orange and grape,
and among roses and shrubbery, the magnificent mag-
nolia grandiflora scatters the exquisite fragrance of its
snowy blossoms.

PRINCEVILLE PLANTATION

Is located on the banks of this beautiful river, and has
the reputation of haying the best sugar mill and plant
in the group. Certain it is that a large fortune was
expended by its former proprietor, Mr. R. C. Wyllie,
in developing the productive capacity of this valley.
Since his death, m 1865, the estate has passed into
other hands, and is now managed by Capt. John G.
Ross, who is also part owner. With a fine mill and ex-
tensive tracts of the richest bottom as well as upland,
this estate must become, when the system of irrigation
is introduced, one of the most productive and valuable
on our islands.
WAIOLI VALLEY.

The scenery in this vicinity is romantically tropical.
The soil is fertile, and produces taro, sugar cane, cofiee,
and indigo, with fruits and vegetables in great variety.
This stream, rushing down a rocky chasm, assumes
every fantastic shape possible, and a traveler describes
it as a picture “more exquisite than any we have seen
on the islands.”

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 105
WONDERFUL CAVES.

Two caves, Waiamoo and Waiakanaloa, six miles
west of Hanalei, deserve the attention. of the explorer.
They are divided into compartments, are filled with
water and must be explored with lanterns, torches and
a canoe. The natives say a gigantic moo (dragon)
guards one of the chambers. The Hawaiian Spectator
says of one: “Its entrance is gothic, from 20 to 30
feet high and as wide. The entrance to the second
apartment, directly in the rear is also gothic, and one-
half as large as the outer opening. The first chamber
is about 150 feet long, 100 wide and 60 high; the
whole forming a beautiful arch.” The depth of the
water at the mouth of the second cave is forty-two feet.
There are said to be rooms beyond, under the mountain,
waiting for the fearless explorer. The water is cold,
clear and sweet, having no apparent ingress or egress,
or connection with the sea.

NAPALI.

Along the north-western coast of Kauai, for twenty
miles, stands a bold bluff of unrivaled majesty. The
ocean does not shoal from blue to green until right on
the breakers and the wild surge, without a barren reef,
dashes on precipitous walls of primitive rock. No cliff
falls below 800 feet m elevation, and the average is
above 1200. Numerous streams pour over the face of
the mountain, durmg the wet séason, and become mist
before they reach the ocean.

The Kilauea on her circuit trips, steams within 400
yards of these palisades, which are interrupted only by
an ancient retreat of the chiefs at Milolii, with its forti-

106 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

fied fish pond and impregnable valley accessible from
the land only by a pole ladder.

THE BARKING SANDS OF MANA

Are prominent among the curiosities of Kauai. The
sand possesses the property of ringing or barking, and
it may be produced by striking the banks; by sliding
down, or dragging a heavy body over them. ‘This
property of sound is fixed and can be produced in
samples taken to a foreign country. Moisture deadens
and temporarily destroys its resonance.

WAIMEA

Is the name of a district, village and river, distinguished
in the ancient traditions of Kauai, and also famous as
the place where Captain Cook, the discoverer of the
group, first anchored in 1778, and made the acquaintance
of the natives, who called his vessel a mokw or island.
The harbor, an open roadstead, affording good anchors
age, sheltered from the trade wind, is in latitude 21 °
57’, north, longitude 159 ° 42’, west. Waimea village,
now only a wreck of a once populous capital, is situated
on the west bank of the river. On the ‘opposite side
are the remains of the stone fort built by the Russians,
in 1815, for King Kaumualii. The final conflict in
1824, that confirmed the title of the Kamehamehas and
established their authority on Kauai, was fought over
the walls of this fort. |

THE VALLEY AND FALLS OF HANAPEPE,

Situated midway between Waimea and Koloa, seven
miles from each, are remarkable among the scenery of
the Hawaiian Islands. The banks are precipitous ;

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 107

from hundreds to thousands of feet high, the brink
comes unheralded on the startled observer, who finds it
impossible to descend, except by a few passes. Near
the sea the valley widens, and the barrier walls decrease
in height, exhibiting masses of red columnar lava.
Here, close by the ocean, under the cocoanut trees, by
the mouth of the stream that runs down the valley, are
the dwellings of the natives, whose patches of taro and
bananas line the banks above. So much untilled land
and other indications of a former numerous population,
assure us that the estimates of Cook and Vancouver,
who placed the population in 1780 at 400,000, were not
far from correct.

_ Hanapepe valley, like most others on this island, ex-
tends inland almost toits centre. Asit recedes from the
shore, the mountains stretch upward, the valley walls
‘growing higher. Rocks become clifis, changing their
form and appearance at every turn. Now a darkened.
narrow gorge through which the river rushes violently,
now a miniature valley with just room for a tiny village,
and the cultivated plats of the inhabitants ; now a stone
viaduct, a flume through which one may look upward
as through a ventilator in a mountain tunnel.

Some five or six miles inland, the level of the valley
begins rapidly to rise, creating some beautiful cas-
cades in the stream, before the Hanapepe Fall appears
in view. Jarves says, “As we approach, it is again
lost to sight, until, after turning a sharp angle in the
glen, it appears, and the visitor finds himself a few rods
from the fall on a narrow ledge of rocks. In that
direction nature’s fiat proclaims ‘thus far shalt thou
come and no farther.’ A perpendicular wall between

108 HAWAITAN GUIDE BOOK.

three and four hundred feet in height, and forming so
complete a circle that no outlet except that which the
stream makes, is seen; and it is only by following up
tts bed through dense thickets that this spot can be
reached. ‘The circle is small and the rocks above partly
project over the outlet, so that 1t appears like a tunnel,
and the sun can reach its bottom only when vertical.
Nothing can be seen except a few scattering shrubs
which border the top. Fleecy clouds drive rapidly past
before the strong gusts of these mountain regions.
The air here is exceedingly cold and chilly, and the
rocks wet and slippery with spray. If the visitor is
heated by this excursion, it would be dangerous for him
to approach the fall before he is cooled, as the perspira-
tion is lable to be suddenly checked. Opposite and far
above him is the waterfall; there, about ten feet in
width and several in depth, but ranging in volume ac-
cording to the rains, springing from between two nar-
row and overhanging masses of basaltic columns, it
leaps thirty feet, strikes a ledge of rocks, and gradually
spreading and lessening in thickness, falls many more
feet and strikes another ledge; from whence, falling
again an equal distance into a deep and circumscribed
gulf below, or whitens with its foam the whole surface
of the rock from the height above.”

Another writer says of this fall, “Coming out of a
romantic and picturesque gorge, formed in the loftiest
peaks in the central range, it leaps through its mountain
gateway of basaltic pillars from precipice to precipice,
nearly four hundred feet, into the bright elysian valley
below. From the clear sheet of pure, rushing, leaping
water above, it gradually expands in spray, whitening

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 109

into foam as it descends, till it falls a never-ceasine
shower into the cool basin below. We thought of vari-
ous cascades and waterfalls of world-wide celebrity, but
none can equal Hanapepe in the beauty, grandeur and
magnificence of its surrounding scenery.” The height
of this waterfall is 326 feet.

WAHIAWA.

Two miles Hast from Hanapepe are the stream and
valley of Wahiawa. The scenery beyond, toward
Koloa, is very fine, for the woods reach down in points
resembling an Hnglish park. ‘The hills are green,
grassy, wave-like and rounded, and the mountain is
watered by the streams of Waikaka, Waiheo and La-
wai, each adorning its own sweet valley. A half mile
above the road at “ Brideswood,” four miles from Ko.
loa, may be seen the residence of Hon. D. McBryde,
judge of the circuit court of this island. The site ig
lovely, in a grove of kukui and koa trees and surround-
ed with broad, rolling pastures, covered with cattle.

THE VILLAGE OF KOLOA

Is fifteen miles to the northeast of Waimea, and ten
miles south from Iihue. It has no harbor, butan open
roadstead. The trade wind blows along and a little off
shore. The anchorage is close in shore, in four or six
fathoms, under the shelter of a bluff. The town istwo
rniles from the landing, and is noted for its sugar plan.
tation, the oldest in the group, formerly owned by Dr.
R. W. Wood, and now by Messrs. Wright and Isenberg,

The Koloa district gradually rises from the sea and
reaches a range of high hills, which separate it from the
extensive plain of Lihne on the north. There is a fine
carriage road to Lihue, passing through a gorge in the

10

\

110 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. ©

mountain ridge, and travelers will always find the ride |
through “the gap” a pleasant one. They can embark
on the steamer either at Koloa or Lihue, though the
latter place is preferable.

THE SPOUTING HORN

Is one of the natural curiosities of Koloa. It is a lofty
jet of spray, which in a heavy sea is fully a hundred
feet high. The waves rush through an underground
channel and burst upward through an opening in the
lava rock, near the landing place, making an intermit-
tent fountain usually fifty feet high. This is accom-
panied with a sound sometimes audible a mile distant.

NITHAU.

Justice demands a passing notice of this fine little
island, the westernmost inhabited island of the group,
—once populous, and now the property of Mr. Francis
Sinclair. It is used exclusively as a sheep ranch, which
numbers about 75,000 head. It is immediately opposite
or west from Waimea, twenty miles distant, always in
sight, but not easily accessible. It was formerly noted
for the “ Niihan mats,” woven from a fine grass, which
grows only on it, and which resembles the Guayaquil
grass, of which the Panama hats are made. Some of
these mats were woven in colors, and others had mot-
toes. They have become extremely rare, and like genu-
ine ** Panama hats” are very highly prized. This island
was also noted formerly for the beauty of its land and
sea shells, but the latter are now seldom collected by
shell divers on Nihau, or indeed on any of our islands.
Land shells are found on the mountains throughout
the group, and some fine collections of them have been
made by naturalists.

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. lil

INFORMATION for IMMIGRANTS.

Having finished the sketch of the several islands of
this archipelago, which will serve as a guide to tourists,
and enable persons living abroad to form a tolerably
correct idea of them, we will endeavor to answer a few
of the inquiries which the reader will be likely to make,
if disposed to migrate here, with the view of settling
permanently.

1.—Is the climate healthy for natives of coiderlati-
tudes ?

It most certainly is a very healthy one for all foreign-
ers, wherever they may have been born. As a general
thing, foreigners from any part of the world, enjoy as
good health here as they did at home; while for inva-
lids there is no better climate in the world. Consump-
tives and others affected with constitutional complaints,
who come here before disease has gained control of
them, and who can find a light occupation, that will
employ without overworking the mind and body, may
prolong them lives many years, while in some cases
cures may he effected. Acute diseases are more rare.
here than in colder countries, where the changes of cli-
mate are more sudden. Those who are industrious and
obey the laws of nature and of God, need have little
fear of the ills of life so common in colder climates.

112 HAWAITAN GUIDE BOOK.

2.— Can foreigners endure the tropical heat of the
LIslands ?

Owing to constant trade winds which blow over this
group, cooled by an ocean current flowing from the
Arctic, the climate is milder and different from that
of most tropical countries. These trade winds come
from the northwest coast of America, are cool and heal-
thy, and enable laborers, whether whites or colored, to
work in the sun without injury. Indeed, some main-
tain that those who labor in the open field here enjoy
better health than any others. Certain it is that the
prejudice which exists against whites working in the
field in other tropical countries, particularly in India
and the Hast Indies, has no. force in this group.

3.—Are there good chances in the islunds for men.
with fair enterprise and possessed of little capital ?

While the truth requires us to state that such chan-
ces are fewer here than in other countries, yet there are
occasional openings for farmers, tradesmen, and profes-
sional men. Asa general thing, “small farming” has
not succeeded well here; but under the operation of the
reciprocity treaty with America, there will be greater
inducements for this class to settle and engage in rais-
ing rice, bananas, coffee, oranges, sugar cane, tobacco
and ramie, for all. which there will be an unlimited mar-
ket in the Pacific Coast States of America. Those
who come here to settle should have means sufficient to
buy and improve their land, and maintain them tll
‘their crops. bring in a return.

4,— Js land obtainable, and at what cost?

The title to lands here is always good, if secured by
a “royal patent,” as most lands are. But while com-

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 118

paratively easy to lease land, it is difficult to pur-
chase. The four million acres of land which form our
group are owned by less than six thousand free-holders ;
and of this total, probably three and half millions are
held by less than one hundred parties, including the
government, the “crown land estate,” and the native
chiefs. The policy of the large landholders is not to
sell but to lease. The value of land varies. here very
much as it does'in other countries. Whenever it is in
the market for sale, large tracts may be had for from
fifty cents to two dollars an acre. No stranger should
buy or lease land until he has had an opportunity to
visit the various islands, and examine personally any
properties offered to him, and make full imquiries about
the locality. Government lands are now almost all
leased, but their boundaries, in many cases, are indefi-
nite. They are being surveyed as rapidly as possible;
but it is a work of years.

5.—Are the islands well adapted to raising cane,
vice, coffee and tobacco ?

They are most admirably, not only as regards:climate
but soil. For sugar cane each of the four principal
islands has been fairly tested, and we say, without any
fear of contradiction, that there is no country in the
world where a finer climate for sugar exists, or a richer
soil. Of course some localities are better adapted to it
than others, and the yield per acre varies accordingly.
While our group is, to a remarkable degree, exempt
from those hurricanes which sweep with such destruc-
tion over the West and Hast Indies and the South Pa-
cific; while our crops are free from the blighting frosts
that frequently visit Louisiana, Texas and other South-

10*

114 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

ern States; the yield of sugar is sure and large, seldom
less than 2,000 pounds, and in fayored localities 8,000
and even 10,000 pounds to the acre is no unusual yield.
A fair average may be stated as 3,000 pounds of sugar
to the acre. This is not an annual yield, for the cane
requires generally eighteen months to mature. There
are thousands of acres on each of our islands still un-
cultivated, but most admirably suited for cane; and we
are within bounds when we say that within ten years,
if the requisite labor and capital were obtainable, our
annual product of sugar might be doubled. Indeed,
those who are best acquainted with the subject, main-
tain that the large island of Hawaii alone is capable of
producing as much as is now raised in the whole group.

Respecting Correr we may say that there is no more
delicious coffee in the world than that grown in Kona,
Hawaii, when properly cured. Most now gathered
grows wild in the woods, very little attention. being paid
to its systematic cultivation. When good sites are
secured coffee culture may become a safe and profitable
business. Travelers who come here from coffee grow-
ing countries are surprised at the quality and excellence
of our coffee. During 1874, an Hnglish gentleman
largely interested in Ceylon and its coffee trade, spent
some weeks on Hawaii examining the coffee districts,
and declared that Hawaii not ouly possessed finer coffee
lands but produced a far superior article to Ceylon.

There is no product that promises so well for this
eroup as coflee, provided elevated localities are chosen
for it. It is stated that on Hawaii the trees which
grow in the woods and at a certain height are not at-
tacked with blight, bub are every year found loaded

|

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 115

with berries. There are tracts in Kula and Hamakua,
East Maui, where sufficient elevation is obtained, and
which may be found to be the proper location. So too
in Kona, Kau, Hamakua and Hilo, on Hawati—there
are many good localities, possessing sufficient moisture
and well protected from the winds, where coffee planta-
tions may be profitably located. These lands, when not
purchasable, can generally be leased at a fair annual
rental. Though stony, they are said to be all the bet-
ter on this account for coffee culture. We consider
this the most promising business that can be engaged
in by foreigners of small means.

Ric also grows well, yields abundantly a fine grain,
considered equal to the best American rice. It will
grow anywhere that taro does, in the valleys or on the
uplands. Two crops a year have been raised, but the
amount and quality are better when but one crop of
3,000 pounds of paddy are raised annually, turning out
2,000 pounds of No. 1 table rice per acre.

ToBacco grows very rank on all the islands, and is
raised by the natives for their own use; but owing to a
lack of knowledge in the proper mode of curing, it is
not raised for export. .

6.—Js field labor obtainable, and at what cost ?

Native labor has become quite scarce, and will. be
more and more so each year. The pay of field hands
varies from 80 to 50 cents a day, or from $8 to $13 a
month of twenty-six days. lfforts are being made by
the government to introduce Chinese and Japanese la-
borers, and the. probability is that there will soon be no
scarcity in this respect. The wages of cooks and house
servants vary from five to three dollars a week.

116 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

?7.—Do all the tropical products flourish ?

All that have been imported and cultivated appear to
do well. Among them are the banana, pine-apple,
guava, tamarind, mango, citron, lime, oranges in certain
localities, and among roots, tapioca, sago, arrowroot,
sweet potato, yams, &c. Among berries, are the cape
gooseberry, strawberry, ohelo or whortleberry, rasp-
berry, &e.

8.— Can products of the temperate zone be raised ?

Fruits of the temperate zone have not so far done
well here, perhaps because they have not been suff.
ciently acclimatized or have not found their proper
locality. Peaches have done best, but are inferior to
those in other countries, and will bear only from seeds
planted here. Grain, such as wheat, oats, barley, rye,
buckwheat, &c., grow pretty well; but they are not
equal to American, and on this account flour and
grains are imported. Irish potatoes grow well above
one thousand feet elevation. Vegetables and melons
also do well, and are equal to any raised elsewhere.

9.— What animals, birds or reptiles abound ?

All domestic animals and fowls do as well here as in
any country, and are kept at a much less cost. There
are no wild animals, unless we except a few dogs, hogs,
goats and cattle which run wild in the mountain for-
ests, and furnish game for sportsmen. Of reptiles and
insects there are few venomous ones. Centipedes,
scorpions, ants, spiders, and wasps, are abundant, but
their venom is modified by the climate—at least they
are not fatal as in other countries. Mosquitoes are
found in some localities. There are no snakes or frogs
in the group. Besides domesticated poultry, which in-

HAWAITAN GUIDE BOOK. 117

elude fowls, turkeys, ducks, geese, guimea and pea
fowls, doves, &e., there are not many birds. Attempts
have been made to introduce insectiverous and game
birds, but they are not abundant, if we except wild
ducks, plover, snipe and owls.

10.—Have you a liberal government ?

The government is a constitutional monarchy, and
may be considered as a very liberal one. The present
ruler, King Kalakaua, is a Hawaiian Chief, who was
elected by the Legislature in 1874, is gifted with wis-
dom.and moderation, and what is all-important, appears:
to have the true interests of his people at heart. His
recent visit has caused him to be well and favorably
known abroad. The Legislatureis composed of twenty
nobles appointed for life by the King, and twenty-
eight representatives elected: biennially by the people.
These assemble every two years, and’ sit together, form-
ing one legislative body, on whose. acts the King has a
veto.

11l.— Are taxes oppressive ?

By no means. Every male subject or resident fors
eigner is taxed five dollars per annum, of which two
dollars are forthe support of public schools, two dol-
lars for the public roads and one dollar poll tax. Real
and personal property is taxed } of one per cent on the
assessed valuation, or five dollars on every thousand.
Hvery horse is. taxed 625 cents, every dog one dollar,
and every carriage five dollars. Passengers arriving
from a foreign country pay two dollars each towards
the support of the Queen’s Hospital, which is open to:
all alike. Foreign goods pay an import tax of ten per
cent. on their cost. Licenses have to -be paid by all en-

eas HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

gaged in mercantile pursuits, varying generally from
fifty to two hundred dollars a year. The whole reve-
nue collected by the government annually is $430,000,
or about seven dollars a head for the entire population,
tion, while in England and France the average is eleven
or twelve dollars, and in America it is still larger.
Compared with those countries, taxation here may be
called very moderate.

12.—Is the cost of living high ?

It is about the same as in the United States. Rents
in Honolulu vary from $200 to $600 a year, according:
to the size and quality of the dwelling. In the coun-
try, dwellings can be had for one half or one-third
these sums. A good house and lot, suitable for a fam-
ily of six or eight, can be purchased in Honolulu for
$3,000; in country places for half or one-third that
sum. As to provisions,—in Honolulu, flour costs 4
cents a pound, beef and mutton 5 to 8 cents, potatoes
2% cents, rice 4 to 5 cents, sugar 5 to 8 cents, butter 30
to 50 cents, milk 6 to 8 cents a quart, eges 30 to 50 cents
a dozen. Lumber, building materials and wages of
mechanics are about the same here as in the United
States. In country places beef, milk, eggs, potatoes,
&c., are much cheaper, while imported provisions cost
more. A native saddle-horse costs $5 to $25; a milch
cow, $10; sheep, $1 to $2; and goats, 50 cents to ¢1
each. A family; in the country, can never lack the
necessaries of life, as an acre of taro, sweet potatoes
and bananas will amply support it. The Inxuries, how-
ever, are always more expensive here than elsewhere.

13.—Are good schools established ?

The government schools throughout the islands are

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 119

established chiefly for the natives, and the Hawaiian
language is taught in them. In the principal towns
such as Honolulu, Lahaima, Wailuku, Makawao, Hilo,
Kona, &c., there are good English schools, where tui-
tion costs one dollar a week. Jt is probable that the
government will soon extend its system of Hnglish
education more generally throughout the group.
14.—Are earthquakes destructive at the islands ?

Although this question is an absurd one, we will an-
swer it by stating that the islands of this archipelago
(excepting only Hawaii,) are as free from earthquakes
and volcanic phenomena as are America or Hurope.
The only active volcano is found-on Hawaii, on Mauna
Loa, and the southern half of that island only, say
from Hilo to Kawaihae, is exposed to its influence.
The other islands of this group have earthquakes less
frequently tham California or Hurope, and nowhere are
they destructive to life or property.

To sum up—our government is liberal—taxes are
light—courts of law guarantee justice to foreigner and
native alike—our climate is remarkably genial and
healthful—life and property are secure—land is obtain-
ed at a fair price—labor and capital are in demand and
well paid—and the staple products of the islands, sugar,
rice, coffee and wool, are in demand at a fair profit to
the producer, and are likely to continue so for an indefi-
nite period ; while new products, such as tobacco, ramie,
banana hemp, flax, cotton, &c., are open to those skilled
in raising them. Those who are in search of a country
where they can live cheaply, provided they dispense
with Iuxuries, in a climate as fascinating as it is heal-
thy, can find no place equal to the Hawaiian Islands,

120 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.
POPULATION OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS.

A census of the whole group is taken by the govern-
ment once in every six years, the last being that of De-
cember, 1872. It gives a total population of 56,897,
the details of which are below :

Total number of Natives, December, 1872.........01.000ss 49,044.
Total number of Half-castes, Decembet, 1872............-.. 2,487
Total number of Chinese, December, 1872...............--. 1,938
Total number of Americans, December, 1872........esee-ee 889
Total number of Hawaiian born, foreign parentage..... Pie. | OG
Total number of Britons, foreign parentage..... Salen rl iniare bes 619
Total number of Portuguese, foreign parentage............. 395
Total number of Germans, foreign parentage........-....+- 224.
Total number of French, foreign parentage.............--0. 88
Total number of other Foréeigners....... Sbalgreee tho Wb o-anefen 364.

Total population, December, 1872.............-0. 0-00: 56,897
Total number of Natives and Half-castes in 1866...... i 58,765
Total number of Natives and Half-castes in 1872............ 51,531

Total decrease of Natives and Half-castes sifice 1866..... 1,284
Total number of Foreigners in 1872....... SGA arid haake sin 5,366
Total number of Foreigners in 1866.............00. tee brapd ocd LOE

Total increase of Foreigners since 1866,.... Aatalis ae ao Pye aligticy2)
Decrease of Natives and Half-castes since 1866 .............. 7,284
Increase of Foreigners since 1866.,......... He enebnaeebav nes 1,172

Total decrease of population since 1866............ P28 6,062
Native males over 40 years of AWC... eke eek eee nets ees 9,991
Native females over 40 years Of a@@.......0 see sccecececsese "545
Native males of all ages............ S htelesttetais afeislete A's) sca Sgnee - 26,180
Native females of all ages............000.+-..0... salace grata esas 22,914
Flawaiian born, foreign parents, males............ ret eeeeeee 418
Hawaiian born, foreign parents, females........ ayalelanand's $08 Bae aol
Chinese Males... sie.5se- wesw re donees ip eins «lino sipest w otbeged eens 1,831
(TMT: ERG ATO ALC B ia. ereeaerd sacisinectotaseatecesefers bie o\eig «arses cucietes piso cteasiies 107

Clergymen 120, teachers 324, licensed physicians 47, lawyers 91,
merchants 728, mechanics 2,115, agriculturists 9,670, plantation la-
borers 4772, freeholders 6,580,

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 121

From the above data it will be observed that the de-
erease of the native race during six years was 7,534, or
at the rate of about 14 per cent., while the foreign pop-
ulation shows an increase of 28 per cent. for the six
years covered by the census.

HINTS TO TRAVELERS.

Journeying through the group is mostly done by sea
or on horseback. The roads are generally good for an-
imals, and in some districts for carriages, but traveling
is seldom performed in vehicles, except near Honolulu.
Horses can usually be hired for one dollar an hour in
Honolulu, or when wanted for a trip around an island,
or to the crater from Hilo or Kan, the charge is ten
dollars. Some find it cheaper to buy a horse or mule,
which will cost from $10 to $25. Have him well
shod, and when through dispese of him for what he
will bring. Guides can be had for fifty cents to one
dollar a day, or for a specific sum for the round trip.
There is usually no difficulty in hiring horses or guides.

Here, as in other mountainous countries, travelers
should take with them as little superfluous luggage as
possible,—a change or two, with some kind of water-
proof garment for protection during the rains which
are encountered on the mountains. ‘Throughout the
group the natives will be found kind, hospitable and in-
offensive, and as a general rule honest, at least with
those who confide in them. In almost every village
there are white residents, but where there are none the
natives will always provide for strangers lodging and
food—such as they have, trusting to the generosity of
their guests for their reward. ‘The following table giy-

1]

122 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

ing an approximation to distances, will be found useful

to such as travel over the group; though it should be

stated that the number of miles will not always serve

as a correct guide in judging of the time necessary to

travel over the road. This remark applies more espe-

cially to Hawaii, where the roads are very stony, and

interrupted with ravines, some of which require an

hour to cross, or when the streams are swollen, may be
impassable for several hours or days.

DISTANCES ON OAHU.

From Honolulu Post-office to Waikiki Grove...........-- 8 miles
«6 “ se Diamond Head......-<-.<- ae ay
« oe «“ PEN Wc Hina CT yeesetceae ss eters aerele By os
« & “ TROISOMEN CA dim etic eteneace ate 1dbe Eh
6 6c “ Waianae (Church at Pokai).30 ‘
rt “ RE Waialua Church,.......... 2Q81¢ **
rs ue “ TNH OF ONL ETM ees fase oe Ty gs
a «ce “ Waimanalo Ranch......... 127 ate
& « ss Kaneohe Sugar Mill........ g1g s
“ &“ “6 Kaalaea Plantation ........ Aa
‘ tc st Kualoa Ranch....,........194¢ *
« “ te Punaluu Rice Plantation...26 *%
a“ “ st Laie Mormon Settlement...382 ‘
«& & “ Kahuku via Waialna.......88 ‘

ON THE ISLAND OF MAUL

From Lahaina to Wailuku via the Mountain Road........ 20 miles
‘s Lahaina to Kaanapali,........«-« eae sicictgid aif 3-2) 4/50 AES
‘© Wailuku to Kalepolepo..... py ee Ant oatomor ate Pe ALE noe
s Kalepolepo to Makee's, 5. ii.dasaesomeveenewivdsaeslO
** Kalepolepo to Makawao (Saynete 8 Store) Been at G0 1326 “*
© Sdyre’s Store to Summit of Haleakala........ corsesta *
© Maliko Landing, Haiku, to Sayre’s Store, Makawao. 7 “
‘6’ Wailuku to Makee’s Plantation,...... wr taaets aide Heo EEE
“© Wailuku to Makawao (Sayre’s Store),......... ¥ fig ad y ot
“ Kahului to Wailuku Post-office......,,........008% Ba os

‘* Kahului to Makawao (Sayre’s Store)..,,..,.......-11

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 193

¥rom Makee’s Landing to Ulupalakua Mill...,...... sser6 0 Miles
“ Ulupalakua to Hana, via Kaupo........ selerene bau eee
* Kabulni to Hana, (Hamakua route)..cocssseseveces 45

ON THE ISLAND OF HAWAII.

From Kawaihae to Waimea Court House..... Pilenescaea eis -11 miles
* Kawaihae to Kohala Plantation...........c..e0---- Lite” tse
‘¢ Waimea Court House to Kohala Plantation......... 23 —~«CS
ee $s ¢ % Waipio Valley,...c.e.s.-. Ute
cf es AG oe Ta UPANOChO er uty wiqeat= ibs + Oman’
et ss ss tes Hilo, via Laupahoehoe..,.60 ‘“*
sf Ee s *« Summit of Mauna Kea, via
Kalaieha..... prsecca sie leth aseth gtal atarasth.c erebaareedts wraveabadeantsins aarofs 40
From Hilo to Kaupakuea Piaetann Sr Audanencs aipreeiees cere ds HO se
ft ct GRA eT OT ARM ATICAS sg els prarno tees eratea gee arcs. 6 80.‘
hg i PUY cal-co Tn aera (GINEEUTIN) cepleve vars ccteretctctnccteeepetpaeta erces gleeots Game ist
*¢ Crater of Kilauea to Summit Crater of Mauna Loa..35 *
‘© Waiohinu (Kau) to Kealakekua.........00+s0-e0-0 ther ON
SUS MIG CaCO el Qu Om Callas, cate toae. wtotezace Sete wer seaceitl cena orate as Ay NG
FF eS Summit of Mt. Hualalai............. he 13:
Smolin TOS Ka waitacs 2 itn Reh lel, stein Maly tateleteetaee ons: aD) =F
Ff Minionine (Kau) to Kapapala, (Reed's “PAB emer ot
“s . Summit Crater, via Kapapala...61 ‘°
*¢ Hilo to Summit Crater, via Kilanea......... eetea ister ¢ 65 fF

. ON THE ISLAND OF KAUAT.

From Lihue to Koloa....... Piste sar eee ssossese-l0 miles
£6 SROLOA TOTEAM AD CPC s.2 ese ts ececeiecs ae Rk ree Paatwhased aa?
Ks Ae AW ORVS rea een Eb ae Ak areas feroeist ote Sete ots LD It SS
“ Waimea to Mana Point.........c...0. PM are ory Load Amar st
‘¢ Lihue to Wailua Falls......-.cscecese Sin ahaa Ea Bae oft
ee es Kealia. (Karullltgyi 22. . 2 22s mest Haves tystanas 14 &
on oe Retlaneas Chitcomrb?s)s tiers aemiaciset ose acleetes Pp OC
st My EELEOTU EL LTE etal aticle otek ate yaneet ice Et stele RU sheve to csbta% GAO) as

INTER-ISLAND CHANNELS, &c.

Width of Kauai and Oahu Channel..........ssscoee Rebede ref 70 miles
- Gahu and Molokai Channel.......... Meare cssnstése coer 207 66s
Se Molokai and Mani,..,........02seeeee Rec letersi st igs £0
ss Maui and Lanai...... ni cnare ddvabibereseeeteys Mats taaiotetex since sh

ee Maui and Hawaii.........- BH niet pone ae bees 0 ta

124 HAWAITAN GUIDE BOOK.
Width of Kauai and Niihan Channel..............ss.-0..13 miles

q

From Honolulu to Lihue Anchorage, Kanai,....... hosetp O37, ie
C: tt Lahaina Aneborage...... SCH ES e565 nie BK
ae ‘t Kawaihae Anchorage,...... J auIeIOS Ao 140 «=
s6 % Kealakekua Anchorage, via Kawaihae.175
ce &e Hilo Bay, via Kawaihae..............220 &
WG ilo BavrOrectelinerestss.csee coo ©

OCEAN DISTANCES.

Honolulu to Sam Francisco.............+sseeeeeeseee ee 22100 miles

ut Levuka,; Fiji...... Maso a tne als autebee pees: Ss

A} AD BUO THULE, Se MPNO ns soe ee eB Me Be Aer lal Us

ee Auckland, direct....... bees SS eee NERS 6si4

" Otago, via Auckland.......... sand te Ae eee

ne Syduey, direct...... bicies MuAH A ellen te ote

sl Eon scone stit ets sm neuen meee teeters 4593S

Ny Yokohama, direct.......... BE aOL cy SUR ACA I 3440 *S

ct Dabiti mid recta sees Ds arisishacttetp a teeriectete 2080 8

hs Panamiaes chine ctisas arses eaten leiion cm eee atom 4620

oe Acapuleo, direct....... me ese ae ST acta Ra aye) tks

a CAT AOMAILECHS SAA Pe Snore ewes eee aren en eee 5240 «*

is Valpandiso, GineCthiematers. tes ee eee O OO: oss

ae Sse ueies eG) VG ie orth rey ety coir Sy crasetecsbacieteerett? 1640 ¢

Ge Victoria, Vaneouver’s Island.............. 2380 *

HEC WNC ASLOMAI Ol GT Chant nt enteral vette Platte dacs nates 116%
Hw PE ViCUILG Vere sitters! fom lemeesterere stra aleccslermeleyiayate +. Peloe «5

Re San Francisco (via Honolulu)..... Ss AB ene 4808 ‘
Tutuila to Auckland............ Roa sitar Unsreloia T°
Re VAMC, (es ssccseiejtpee asec arenes mye eee er eens cen

a Mevukaee. seeee Seite 43 ee dine Fa Nez cbiete ela atae PeaGSy) 5s

z WEMINIEO Cee copeaneceas atevtihy ee pet atc. 656
San Francisco to Auckland, (via Honolulu)...... Me raye: see 5914
S eC Sydney, via Honolulu and Leyuka..... 6580 ‘¢

‘ re Sydney, via Honolulu, Fiji& Auckland.7174
Sydney to Auckland via Cape Manukan................1176 ‘“*

ie Melbourne yia Cape Howe......c...eceeeace 522

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 125

INFORMATION FOR TOURISTS.

Cabin passage by steamer, from Honolulu to San
Francisco, $75.

Cabin passage by sail vessel, from Honolulu to San
Francisco, $50 to $60.

Cabin passage by steamer to Auckland, $150.

Cabin passage by steamer to Sydney, $150.

Steerage passage, by steamer to Sydney, $90.

Steerage passage, by steamer to San Francisco, $40.

Steerage passage, by sail vessel to San Francisco,
$30.

Freight from Honolulu to San Francisco, per ton, $0
to $6. '

Freight from Honolulu to Sydney, per ton, $10.

Cabin passage from Honolulu to Mani, $5 to $8.

Cabin passage from Honolulu to Hawaii, $5 to
$12.50.

Cabin passage from Honolulu to Kauai, $5 to $8.

Board at the Hotel, $3 dollars a day or $15 a week.

Steamer Kilauea leaves Honolulu every Monday for
ports on Maui and Hawaii, excepting one week in the
month, when she makes a trip to Kauai.

Schooners leave daily for different parts of the group.

Foreign steamers touch once a month regularly, con-
necting Honolulu with Sydney, Auckland, San Fran-
cisco and Fiji. See Time-table.

American and Hnglish gold and silver coins form the
principal currency in this Kingdom. Spanish silver
coins, and French silver five franc or dollar pieces, and
Chilean and Peruvian dollar pieces are also current.
Silver certificates, representing specie on deposit in the
government treasury, are also current.

Gis

126 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

Passengers can always obtain the privilege of re-
maining over one or two trips of the steamers, at Hon-
olulu, provided the arrangement is made at the time of
engaging passage. Four weeks stoppage will enable
them to visit the volcano and Mt. Haleakala on Maui;
but to visit all the principal places will require two
or more months.

MAILS AND POSTAGE,

Honolulu possesses an excellent General Post-office,
as well conducted asin any country. Mails are receiy-
ed and despatched by every conveyance, to Sydney,
Auckland, San Francisco and all parts of the United
States; London and all parts of England and Hurope.
All postages must be prepaid.

Letter postage to any part of the Australian Colonies,
12 cents for each half ounce in weight. Newspapers,
2 cents each, all in Hawaiian stamps.

Letter postage to the United States, 6 cents each half
ounce, Hawaiian stamp. Newspapers, 4 cents each, 2
cents Hawaiian and 2 cents United States.

Letter postage to Hngland and Germany, 11 cents
each half ounce,—6 cents Hawaiian and 5 cents Ameri-
can. Newspapers, 6 cents each,—2 cents Hawaiian and
4: cents United States.

Rates to other countries vary, and can always be as-
certained at the General Post-office, Merchant street.

Inter-island letter postage is 2 cents for each half
ounce ; local newspapers to subscribers wAw ee of postage.
Transient papers, 1 cent each.

NEWSPAPERS PUBLISHED IN HONOLULU.

There are five weekly newspapers and one monthly,
published in Honolulu ;

The GAzgrrs, issued every Wednesday morning, pub-

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 127

lished and edited by Henry M. Whitney, office over the
General Post-office.

The ADVERTISER, issued every Saturday morning,
published by J. H. Black, on Merchant street.

The IsLAnpDuER, issued every Friday morning, publish-
ed by Thos. G. Thrum, on Merchant street.

The Kuoxos, (Hawaiian,) issued every Saturday
morning, published by H. M. Whitney.

The Lanur Hawa, (Hawaiian,) issued every Thurs-
day morning, published by the Hawaiian Board.

The FRIEND is issued on the first of each month by
Rey. Samuel C. Damon, Seamen’s Chaplain.

There are no daily papers issued at presentin Honolulu.

HAWAIIAN STATISTICS.

Annual reyenue of the government, not including loans. $ 483,561
Sources of reyenue—Duties on foreign imports.$175,379
From fines and penalties... 19,952
‘© internal commerce... 58,904
“¢ internal taxes....... 108,361
‘* fees and perquisites.. 9,448
* government rents, &c 64,025
‘© miscellaneoussources 5,085

Public debt, April, 1874..... aac cher fee Peano adeee 340,000
Imports, total for 1I874............0 Soe re ney e bse 1,310,827
Exports, total for 1874...........4- meng be Sec Rp peck 1,839,620
Principal articles of export, 1874:

Bev IM PN TaD SS erat ety tetate, vlvtera0ter kato ove, open roan atten ses 24,566,611

Riceand paddy, lbs.........-. sess eee e+. 1,627,148

WOO, WSs ses creo cc one Diaiy ob io: dil alta sire 399,926

BUGS VDE crats seta ste eat hd See Non ond oe 418,320

SPREE owyyrs SUIS Ses rate bts teed d's p's wo, everetale ce re winiety al ohm 125,596

Hawaiian vessels, 54; tonnage of same, 8000 tons.

Hawaiian whalers, now in service, 4.

Area of the group, 4,000,000 acres.

Live stock on the islands (estimated)—cattle, 80,000; sheep, 175,-
000; horses, 33,000; goats, 250,000.

Public schools, 242; scholars in attendance, 7,755,

Annual cost of public schools, 1874, $40,330.

———

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

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HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOR. 129

THE RECIPROCITY TREATY BETWEEN THE UNITED
STATES AND HAWAII.

This commercial convention was concluded in Wash-
ington during the early part of 1875, and approved by
the Senate in March. Since that date, it has been sign-
ed by President Grant and King Kalakaua, and now
awaits the necessary legislative action of Congress,
legalizing the removal of duties, as provided byit. The
treaty has not been promulgated, and may not be until
Congress assembles in December, 1875, when a law will
be enacted to render it operative.

The draft of the treaty, published in the San Francisco
Commercial Herald, in February, is believed to embrace
all the products of either country, which are to be ex-
empted from duty when the treaty goes into effect.

Articles 1 and 2 of the Treaty, enumerating the list
of free goods, as there published, is inserted herewith :

HAWAIIAN PRODUCTS FREE OF DUTY IN ANY PORT OF
AMERICA,

ARTICLE 1. For and in consideration of the rights and privi-
Jeges granted by His Majesty, the King of the Hawaiian Islands,
in the next succeeding articles of this convention, and as an equiy-
alent thereof, the United States of America hereby agree to admit
all the articles named in the following schedule, the same being
the growth, manufacture or produce of the Hawaiian Islands, into
all parts of the United States free of duty.

Arrowroot;

Castor Oi];

Bananas, nuts, vegetables, dried and undried, preserved and un-
preserved ;

Hides and skins, undressed ;

Rice;

Pulu;

Seeds, plants, shrubs or trees;

150 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

Muscavado, brown or other unrefined sugar, meaning hereby the
grades of sugar heretofore commonly imported from the Hawaiian
Islands, and now known in the markets of San Francisco and Port-
land as ‘Sandwich Island Sugar;”’

Sirups of sugar-cane, melado and molasses;

Tallow. f

AMERICAN PRODUCTS FREE OF DUTY IN ANY HAWAII-
AN PORT.

ARTICLE 2, For and in consideration of the rights and privi-
leges granted by the United States of America, in the preceding
article of this convention, and as an equivalent thereof, His Maj-
esty, the King of the Hawaiian Islands, agrees to admit all the ar-
ticles named in the following schedule, the same being the growth,
manufacture, or product of the United States of America, into all
the ports of the Hawaiian Islands free of duty.

Agricultural implements; animals;

Beef, bacon, pork, ham, and all fresh, smoked or preserved
meats.

Bread and breadstuffs of all kinds; grain, flour, meal and bran;

Boots and shoes; bricks, lime and cement;

Butter, cheese, lard, tallow; bullion;

Coal, cordage, naval stores, including tar, pitch, rosin, turpen-
tine, raw and rectified ;

Copper and composition, sheathing, nails and bolts;

Cotton and manufactures of cotton, bleached and unbleached,
and whether or not colored, stained, painted or printed ;

Eggs, fish and oysters, and all other creatures living in the water
and the products thereof;

Fruits, nuts and yegetables, green, dried or undried, preserved
or unpreserved ;

Hides, furs, skins and pelts, dressed or undressed;

Hardware, hoop-iron and rivets, nails, spikes and bolts, tacks,
brads, or sprigs ;

Ice; iron and steel, and manufactures thereof.

Leather; harness and all manufactures of leather;

Lumber and Timber of all kinds, round, hewed, sawed and un-
manufactured in whole or in part; doors, sashes and blinds ;

Machinery of all kinds, engines and parts thereof;

Oats and Hay ;

Paper, stationery, and books, and all manufactures of paper or
of paper and wood;

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK, 131

Petroleum, and all oils for lubricating and illuminating purposes ;

Plants, shrubs, trees and seeds;

Rice;

Sugar, refined or unrefined ;

Salt; soap; starch; shooks, staves and headings ;

Tobacco, whether in leaf or manufactured; tallow;

Wool and manufacture of wool, other than ready made clothing;
Wagons and carts for the purposes of agriculture or drayage; wood
and manufactures of wood, or of wood and metal, except furni-
ture, cither upholstered or carved, and carriages; textile manufac-
tures made of a combination of wool, cotton, silk or linen, or of
two or more of them, other than when ready-made clothing.

This treaty applies only to the interchange of Hawai-
ian and American products. Productions of other
countries, though shipped from the United States or
from Hawaii, cannot claim the benefit of. free entry
under this treaty, when imported into the other coun-
try. The treaty is to continue for seven years from
the date when it takes effect, which, at this writing, is
uncertain.

COMMERCIAL REGULATIONS.

Honowvtv is the principal port at which the foreign
commerce of the Kingdom centres. Lahaina, on Maui;
Hilo, Kawaihae and Kealakekua on Hawaii; and
Koloa on Kauai, are also ports of entry for foreign
merchandise and shipping.

Pilotage fees at Honolulu are $1.50 per foot, on en-
tering or leaving the port. At Hilo $1.00 per foot.
_ For anchoring a vessel outside the harbor, at Honolulu,

the pilot’s fee is $10.

The rates of towage at Honolulu vary from $30 for
vessels under 200 tons, to $50 for vessels over 1000 tons,

The commanding officers of all vessels are required
to report at the custom house, near the steamer wharf,

132 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

immediately on arrival, and to furnish a certified state.
ment of passengers and cargo,

Foreign goods pay 10 per cent. duty, with some few '
exceptions: spirits pay $3 per gallon; alcohol, $10;
coffee, 8 cents a pound; molasses, 10 cents a gallon; |
cleaned rice, 15 cents a pound; sugar, 2 cents a pound ; |
tobacco and cigars, 15 cents ad valorem; wines, of 18 :
to 30 per cent. alcohol, $1.50 per gallon. [See Hawaii- |
an Digest for more full particulars. |

The free list embraces, books printed in Hawaiian,
coals, copper sheathing and all kinds of sheathing metals,
all specie, goods imported for the King and govyern-
ment, birds and bees, animals for improvement of stock,
returned containers and bags, tools of trade, profession-
al books, implements and furniture in actual use, iron,
plants and seeds, returned cargo, tanning materials, de.

Every passenger arriving from a foreign port pays $2
towards the support of the Queen’s Hospital. Also a
permit to land baggage is required.

Hivery person, on leaving the Kingdom, who has re-
sided here for over thirty days, is required to take out
a passport from the custom house, before leaving.

Storage is furnished in the government warehouses
at the rate of 40 cents per ton of 2000 pounds, or 40
feet cubic méasurement, per month. On ale, beer and
porter, beef, pork and fish, pitch and tar, there are spe-
cial storage rates.

Any foreign vessel may obtain a Hawaiian register,
by payment of a fee of $1 per ton for the first twenty-
five tons, and half a doliar per ton for any excess of
tonnage over the above limit, with the usual charges
for blank and bond.

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 133

Lights are maintained at the ports of Honolulu,
Hilo, Lahaina, and Kawaihae, and the charge at either
port for lights is $3. Coasters pay ten cents per ton
annually as ight dues.

A marine signal telegraph is also maintained, station-
ed on the ridge in the rear of Diamond Head, which
sionalizes all vessels approaching or passing the port of
Honolulu. Captains of vessels arriving and having a
mail on board for this port are requested to hoist the
national ensign at the main-mast head, as soon as they
open up the telegraph station. Vessels passing the
port without stoppmg are requested to display their
number or private signal. ,

All vessels, foreign or coasters, load and discharge
cargo in the port of Honolulu at the public wharves,
the wharfage charge being two cents per ton, per diem,
not including Sundays and holidays. While vessels
having foreign goods on board are discharging cargo, a
custom house guard is stationed on each to superintend
the landing of cargo, and to inspect the same when
necessary.

Special privileges and exemptions are granted to
whaleships, and they are allowed to trade or barter at
specified ports, under certain regulations.

There are no export duties nor transit charges, other
than the cost of blank forms.

All invoices of foreign goods presented for entry at
the customs, whether dutiable or free, are required to
have a certificate attached to them by the Hawaiian
consul resident at the port of shipment. A list of Ha-
waiian constls will be found on the next page.

Much additional useful information regarding the
12

134 HAWAIHAN GUIDE BOOK.
port and commercial regulations may be obtained from

“ Hassinger’s Hawaiian Tariff and Digest.”

HAWAIIAN DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR AGENTS
RESIDING IN FOREIGN COUNTRIES.

CHARGES D’ AFFAIRES AND CONSULS GENERAL.

Manly Hopkins........ eietsiesvete ares iar Arce sere stcers ane London, England
William Martin......... ee eetcevenesceessscseessss-Laris, Franee
TOM NOHE GORE Letvan eta setute aerate eed ae Bere, Hamburg, Germany
David Thomas....... piniasahens stmiens mitre ais apres sole Valparaiso, Chile
RGU CHISELS EG Ue acted ne etrccelt cerca ries) ee eee Lima, Peru
Robert M. Brown....... Bis Wea dce re fe saeeesiaysendle -..- Yokohama, Japan
CoNsULS GENERAL:
EL ME ALOT bis cede. stn teks Meee bdiete s dusla/ees. Susteren inteee New York City
SVVAUIMER ICES Wid Cliate etats anata cis levelelstciars peas Hongkong and Macao, China
ICE THN n ds sedi reokeoeapr ....--.9ydney, New South Wales
CoNnsuULs:
ELV AIS OVEHANICG. cassis tiega se qase's .....9an Franeisco, California
John McCracken..,.. ied Phen aarcicitisetie Hitisd Portland, Oregon
FGI WALCO IM. AB UGNVIER Sc els oucinie ni4.d ye visite o nseipecuok mike teens Boston, Mass.
ROW CUAG MI ANLOM se ats veak aks le evn eae arene Liverpool, England
SWVE NED TORCh: setts rts close, sf tales eys eget set eaas teed alee Falmouth, England
SAGER SS UOC EGR eKiso wleaiticts Besa ietetils ane venient an Ramsgate, England
W. D. Seymour...... daavemtitaa ys isis ote Dies Ses Th elke Cork, Ireland
James Dunn.......... Gfagel atesstetere\ctencYopaia staictsis alate eS Glasgow, Scotland
Edward G. Buchanan,............- Edinburgh and Leith, Scotland
Chas. Scheessler...... BOF tole AIOE Sectordic wictcislors ant ticte sreterne Rouen, France
JG ROTO ROR AAP GREG Ul oes FORTE RY OS Steger yo Marseilles, France
Leon de Mandrot........ Atte ar tere Sn S feLpe ecco nen b Havre, France
A Dpeiohelsyrevelcy GXONSs ee AAA SH At orn Seen hee oo ec Bordeaux, France
Miy.CHO MLOMMLGYET. ccna msec s elrecleris tee citer Copenhagen, Denmark
Pio of owe ee YS Orme tere ao tec eect ia ad Bremen, Germany
Taken oie WCW IESE Ares eae cenbees Sree co As eecie 2 bck oe Carlsruhe, Baden
Wictorischonb ereer.cnru ties s re oe eek 2 co Ree Vienna, Austria
Raphael de Luehi. s,s. seks es Aton PCOS IDOE be Genoa, Italy
William Knight, Hobart Town,............... Van Dieman’s Land
ELEM MYTH OMe aaa als ois cleleie ante te hal aieletsne ere ore al ss iossiciele Victoria, B. C.
James Cruickshank..,.. A HAR inc etG Auckland, New Zealand
Henry Driver.......-:: pas hee Gos ASH be Otago, New Zealand

George N, Oakley........-.++++-.-Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 135

Alexander Speed Webster...........--- Sydney, New South Wales
Ernest A. White (Vice Consul)...,..Neweastle, New South Wales
William H. Delano........... ered noe orate eccane -Coquimbo, Chile
eo Ker COOKS. 1:42 aie ee OREN oes Panama, New Grenada
PIMUVATLUS CGEOSDV= « scccabatatlacie mms Mapes et ties sem eles e tee Callao, Peru
D Arey: W. L. Murray.......--+0+- at Doce HE Levuka, Fiji
@yias, is, Hisher. 0... tcese ecco Secon pier eoee mace et Nagasaki, Japan
PNAC IOULI US {At rut. sta telater ers Clee ralertta, areisiol stealer», Kobe and Osaka, Japan
PRY LCLA TA UZ Secde: Neste ote ela. ack eppepeleveccveleze pn. ot cial ctatel a ci ere wtetete 4 Batavia, Java
Ged Me Dea ar Hs aac pierces asietslste chs Port Stanley, Falkland Islands
BOARD OF IMMIGRATION,
HGR Chet bars steer ern tapsieteve Resa ateleeere tee His Ex. the Minister of Interior

Members.... W. L. Green, C. R. Bishop, E. H. Boyd, 8. G. Wilder

CHAMBER OF COMMERCE.

President—C. R. Bishop............. Vice President—J. C. Pfluger
PECLEHALY ANG. ETGASITED. css gles cc's cans = Alexander J. Cartwright

LENGTH OF PASSAGES.

It may interest readers to know the time required
to make the voyage to Honolulu from various places,
and the following data will furnish the desired informa-
tion:

San Francisco to Honolulu, by steamer............ 7 to 8 days
San Francisco to Honolulu, by sailing vessel...... 12 to 20 *
Portland, Oregon, to Honolulu, by sailing yessel.. 14 to 20 *
New York to Honolulu, by rail and steamer....,.. .... Ags AL
London to Honolulu, by steamers and rail........ .. .. 25 %*
Tahiti to Honolulu, by sailing vessel.......... Sees 2 oy 0) 8%
Samoa to Honolulu, by sailing vessel............. 20 to 380 ‘*
Auckland to Honolulu, by steamer........ as pasl cata 14-to 16° *
Sydney to Honolulu, by steamecr.........s.sseses nso walise AUG
Fiji to Honolulu, by steamer ...........022- eeee heaeteeOD Se i MS
Yokohama te Honolulu, by steamer .............- 2to 16
Yokohama to Honolulu, by sailing vessel......... 30 to 40 “
Hongkong to Honolulu, by steamer, via Japan.... 18 to 22 ‘¢
Hongkong to Honolulu, by sailing vessel.......... 40 to 60 ‘“
Boston, U.S.A., to Honolulu, by sailing vessel, via

Cape Horn..... Seni os AA Stine Cs eas »...120 to 140 *

London or Bremen to Honolula, by sailing vessel,
yia Cape Horn.......... ~Téapatcie tac ad stags 125 to 140 “

136 HAWAITAN GUIDE BOOK.

OCEAN TELEGRAPH. ‘|

The survey of the ocean bed between San Diego and |
Honolulu, and also between San Francisco and Hono-
lulu, and thence westward to Japan, by the U. 8.
steamer Tuscarora, during 1874, and the more recent
survey made by H. B. M’s. ship Challenger, have de-
monstrated the fact that no obstacle exists to laying a
cable from the American shore, via this archipelago, to
Japan, whenever a company may be formed and capital
provided for this object.

The Hawaiian Legislature, at its session in 1874,
passed a law granting exclusive privileges to the first
company which shall connect this group with the Am-
erican Continent. The concession includes the right to
land a cable on any or on all the islands, the mght of
way over them, and the exclusive monopoly of inter-
island telegraphy in this Kingdom.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE WEATHER.

The weather during 1874 was remarkable in sev-
eral respects. Not only was it unusually cool during
the spring, summer and autumn, for this latitude,
but the trade winds prevailed more uninterruptedly
than in previous years. The rainfall i Honolulu,
was more evenly distributed through the entire year.
Thus in June, July, August and September, usually
dry months, we find an average of two and an eighth
inches of rain in each month. And the total rainfall
for the year was nearly 53 inches. The average for a
series of years, as registered by the late Dr. G. P.
Judd, at his residence in Nuuanu Valley, was 46:80
inches. During Noyember there was an extraordinary
fall of nine inches of rain during one night.

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 137

The weather in December, commencing about the
date of the transit of Venus, was for the most part
mild, light westerly and northerly winds prevailing,
with cool, dewy nights, during which the thermometer
fell frequently to about 60°, and on several occasions
below that figure. This cool weather continued into
the spring months of 1875, the thermometer at sunrise
having ranged from 52° to 68°, and during one
night, the 5th of January, it dropped to 503°, as reg-
istered at the Transit of Venus observatory in this city,
which is the coolest we have ever known it to be here,
though at other localities the mercury often falls to
50°, 40° and 30°, according to the elevation above
the sea. Weappend the following table showing the
rainfall in Honolulu for two years, and in Hilo one year.
That for the year 1874, was kept by Mr. Hall at his resi-
dence on Nuuanu Avenue, a short distance above the
intersection of School street, which, we may add, is one
of the best localities for impartial meteorogical observa-
tions to be found in Honolulu.

HONOLULU. HILO.
MONTHS. Ther. Sunrise.

_. ae. 1866. 1874. High’t Low’t 1846,
SAIGON Vee seats iatn ope ele 12.73 10.00 Toons) bos oleh
TECOMUyrelee tea ea ae aes 14.08 } 3.41 Lal op AL AG 9.96
Marche eee. See aeloiehel 8.55 4,16 0s 4, GF 88.15
PME en CAGE Soeanenn 1.60 1.28 70 64 18.86
1 Ri aR Ad «dob de reee ee 8.34 114 (gece. 105 10.68
THLE ys perlite shane elriape-s:bse 1,57 2.51 Te wpe Ee) 5,25
ety ate seaeets Jee eBay 1.86 2,40 Nae teen tO) 9.91
AUGUSE...s.2se00. aoe yel.: 1.56 1.00 Ji hee eral 10.68
September ....... opener 1.75 2.58 73 .. 4.96
October,.....+. eee Ay 2.11 5,50 (Beg, 230 12.64
NOVEM DEI ssren Seen aeicte 1,55 15.67 iB) Pay 25.64
PI SCCHED EI =fs 5. ce areaiteit 4.98 3.90 te Se a3 138.98
Tift pe spe 55.63 | 52.95 ~ | 182.17
Annual average of rainfall at Honolulu, 5 years.............. 46.80

12

138 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

Annual rainfall at Hilo,...............0005 eased tered seyien.t ....180.00
Annual average of rainfall in Eastern United States......... 85.00
Annual average of rainfall in the tropics..................-- 95.00

Number of days in which rain fell in Honolulu, during 1866, 98.

HAWAIIAN FERNS.

The flora indigenous to these islands is not numerous,
though there are some choice wild flowers found in the
mountains. Nearly all the beautiful flowers seen in
our gardens and some of those growing wild are im-
ported. Of ferns, mosses, lichens, and alge, this
group possesses as fine varieties as any part of the
world, its varied climate and the high altitude of its
mountains furnishing a home for many not existing in
other groups of lower land. Mr. Mann enumerates 115
varieties of ferns found by him, but itis believéd that the
whole numbers about two hundred. Mr. EH. Bailey, of
Wailuku, Maui, has prepared the following catalogue of
such as he has collected and of which he has specimens,
numbering 121, As his collection embraces chiefly those
growing on that island, which by the way, are among
the finest in the group, it will doubtless be enlarged
after research on the other islands of this group :

CaraLoGuE or Hawarran Furns.
Prepared by Edward Bailey, Wailuku, Maui.

ADIANTUM, capillus Veneris.

ASPLENIUM, nidus, trichomanes, monanthemuni, fragile, Ma-
craei, erectum, resectum, gemmifernm, obtusatum,, contiguum,
faleatum, cundatum, horridum, deparioides, sylyaticum, adiantum
nigrum, dissectum, rhizophyllum, fureatum, flaccidum, affine, niti-
dum, aspidioides, brevissorum, Arnottii, Sandwichianum. N, B.—
Two species, of which one has three varieties, must, 1 think, come
under another genus; while several species of asplenium are either
unnamed, or the names to which they belong are badly described.

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK. 139

AsPIDIUM, yarium, falecatum, caryotideum, aculeatum, Halea-
kalense, aristatum.

ACROSTICHUM, micradenium, conforme, squamosum, gorgon-
eum, reticulatum.

BLECHNUM, Souleytiana.

BotrycHium, daucifolium.

CYSTOPTERIS, fragilis.

DIcKSONIA, glaucum, glaucum var., Menziesii, Chamissoi.

DrEPaRi, prolifera,

DavauLita, Macreana, repens, hirta, Speluncae, Mannii, tenuifo-
lia, Alexandri.

Doopra, media, Kunthiana.

GLEICHENIA, dichotoma, Hawaiiensis, longissima.

GYMNOGRAMME, Jayanica.

HYMENOPHYLLUM, recurvum, lanceolatum, obtusum, Borneense.

LINDS4#YA, pumila, erecta.

Mararria, Douglassii,

NEPHRODIUM, cyatheoides, Hudsonianum (truncatum), filix-mas
8 yarietes, unitum, globuliferum, cicutarium, latifrons, squami-
gerum, glabrum, rubiginosum, and at least three species not well
made out.

NrPHROLEPIS, exaltata and 1 variety.

OPpHIOGLOSSUM, pendulum, concinnum.

PELL, ternifolia.

Pruris, irregularis, excelsa, Cretica, aquilina, decipiens, decora,
quadriaurita.

POLYPODIUM, Microdendron, crinale, unidentatum, Hillebrandii,
Keraudrinianum, Sandwicense, punctatum, Hookeri, lineare, pseu-
do-grammites, spectrum, serrulatum, sub-pinnatifidum, sarmento-
sum, adenophorus, decorum, pellucidum, pellucidum variety
miriocarpum, bi-pinnatifidum, hymenophyloides, tamariscinum,
tamariscinum variety Hillebrandii.

SADLERIA, cyatheoides, pallida, squarrosa.

SCHIZMHA, australis.

TRICHOMANES, parvulum, filicula, Draytonianum, radicans, mei-
folium, (noyum ?),

VITTARIA, elongata, elongata variety rigida.

140 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

INDEX.

A Lady’s Description of Haleakala, .... vee gus ia
Animals, Birds, and Reptiles, Dctere tre eats 116
Ancient Water-course in Kohala se ats ahs 67
Around the Island of Oahu, Trip Sacer re Bes 50
Barking Sands of Mana, Kauai Eee ae Sasa 106
Bill of Fare at Hotel, Fonts “Aes ews 12
Board of Immigration, Officers of ney onthe epee 185
Byron’s Bay, Hilo, Latitude of Shoe Sots dons G7
Captain Eldart’s Ranch, Puna Sob6 45.55 t&)
Captain Cook’s Monument at Kealakekua, BF, ARES 97
Census of the Islands in 1872, Sia oaths Aye 120
Chamber of Commerce, Officers of erad Wie. ae 185
Channel of Hawaii, Passage of seats Sons sate 61
Channels, Hawaiian, Width of serene site alee 123
Chances for Enterprising Men, aoe oie ean 112
Chinese in Honolulu, Number of ae Seles dents 120
Churches in Honolulu, aan ae, aha.ot 19
Climate, Healthy for Foreigners, eas age 2b 1G bE
Coco Head, mets Por Jee 2

Coffee Culture, ererets erihe Aa ee 114
Coins and Currency In Honolulu, Stes hse ater 126
Commerce of Hawaiian Islands, Table of.. Bice nee 128
Commercial Regulations, Port of Honolulu, .... eae 181
Consuls and Representatives, in Honolulu, one viens 18
Cost of Living in Honolulu, ont Ab 118
Crater of Haleakala, Description of .... aay oles 50
Crater of Kilauea, Description of we os abe 83
Crater of Mokuaweoweo, Description of.. AA ‘eat 94
Descent into Crater of Kilauea, 258 aera aS 83
Depth of Water on Honolulu Bar, oad tire head 5
Distances on the Islands, Table of 4aoe Bene ~»- Lee, 123
Douglass the Traveler, sees peat Seas 93

Duties Payable on Imported Goods .... canes eR

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

Earthquakes, Remarks on e4 Arete
East Maui, Island of
Entrance to Honolulu, Depth and Wiath of

Fruits of Temperate Zone, Cultivated .... sacs
Fruits of Tropical Zone, Cultivated .... sees
Fish Market in Honolulu, rd ae
Ferns, List of Hawaiian alee se

Fruits and Meats at Hotel,

First Impressions of Honolulu,
Foreign Laborers at Islands
Foreigners in the Group, Number of
Foreign Importations, duties on same.... Bb
Free Goods, List of

Good Templars and Other Benevolent Societies...
Government Statistics,
Government, Existing Form of
Grains, Cultivation of

Great Pestilence in 1807

Hawaii, Island of

Hawaiian Hotel, Description of a
Hawaiian Government, List of Officers...
Hawaiian Consuls in Foreign Ports,
Hauula, on Oahu, Valley of

Haleakala, Ascent of Mount of
Hana, A Trip to and Description of ...
Hamakua, Hawaii, District of a.
Halemaumau, In the Crater of
Hanalei, Kauai, Village of
Hanapepe, Valley and Falls of Ap or,
Hassinger’s Tariff and Digest Sea
Heiau or Heathen Temple see
Hilo, District and Village of
Hints to Travelers,

Holidays in Honolulu,
Honolulu Roadstead,
Henolulu City, Description of pele
House of the Sun, Description of mone

Insane Asylum, .
Information for Immigrants,

Kaneohe, Kualoa and Kahuku,

ree 119

we se 116

Git 182

oaee 103

-.70, (4, TF
121

.. 111, 12:
vids 80; 81

142 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

Kauai, Island of Pee tick vans 99
Kau, District of As Pseie Bias 95
Kahoolawe, Island of soa i/o 2 5 57
Kawaihae, Village of HS + ete test 62
Kaiwiki Plantation, near Hilo, cree 5885 seo %4
Kailua, Village and Bay of ite Beit atime wleit
Kealakekua, Village and Bay of ee aan AAP 96
Kine’s Cabinet, Members of oie sie eae 16
Kohala, Village and Plantation of riptace: NEBL 3c ay 65
Koloa, Village of init Por Paice 109
Latitude and Longitude of Islands 51 4h wh: ore 3
Latitude and Longitude of Waimea, Kauai, .... Roos 106
Latitude and Longitude of Honolulu, (note) .... mon 3
Labor at the Islands, : ones sere ite a 115
Largest Apple Orchard in the World, . .. AAS eee 53
Lahaina, Village of eal AR arctan 34
Labainaluna Seminary, Ae oe SR ela 36
Lanai, Island of saci eta be 57
Land and Its Cost, ants sane aati 112
Length of Passages, tea Sen Past 4 185
Leper Settlement, Bett by Ap AS Sisk 60
Light House at Honolulu Harbor, How5 ope seat 5
Lihue, Kauai, alts eee mare 100
Maui, Description of ease sone Hci 34
Masonic Lodges, atone, briic ers 20
Mausoleum, Royal Ange: teiere ielets 24.
Makawao, Village and District of notes clots pie 40
Map of Hawaii, facing page Dobe antea Dearie 61
Mauna Loa, Ascent of wines ry tes Rod 93
Mauna Kea, Ascent of ee Hen Pe Seat ie
Mauna Waialeale, Kauai, Biooete Bhd amet 102
Mails and Postage Rates, neiee rete Piet 126
Meteorological Statistics, moet so dieen 183
Molokini, Island of nee nate marred 58
Molokai, Island of pai ates see 59
Mountains of Hawaii, Height of Eaters sors areas 62
Mokuaweoweo, Crater of one Pere yor 94
Names of the Islands, “Bie shed ga.8 3
Nawiliwili Bay, sone At et 99
Na Pali, Kauai, atest arye ae 105

Newspapers in Honolulu, Names of .... eis ae 126

HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

Niihau, Island of aie ogo

Ocean Distances from Honolulu,
Odd Fellows and Other Societies,

Oloalu Gulch, Maui, goes pete
Olaa, Half-way House to the Crater, .... erie)
Onomea Plantation, Hilo, Safa ane
Pali, Nuuanu, ie meee
Parliament House, or Aliiolani Hale, .... arene
Passenger Tax on Landing, soos

Passage on Steamers, Price of “Loss Lalas

Pele’s Hair, : hhc
Pilotage at Honolulu and Hilo, Rates Of. : aero
Population of Honolulu,

Population of Islands, soo

Post Office and Rates of Postage, alex

Princeyille Plantation, Kauai, ARS Rass
Prison and Jail in Honolulu, Scieke
Privy Council of State, ane

Puna Route to the Volcano,

Queen’s Hospital, tes
Queen Emma’s Residence, ha Bete
Rainfall at Honolulu and Hilo, ae shins
Reciprocity with the United BAe obte oh
Reformatory School, Bere: ae,
Reed’s Ranch, Kapapala, Tels Sere
Rice Culture, eevee
Schools of the Hawaiian Kingdom, re cheat
Seminaries at Makawao, hts

Shells, Sea and Land,

Silver Sword Plant, pete
Smuggling, Penalty, Confiscation of Gacas Bonn

Spouting Horn, at Koloa, Lope
Steamer itinea, nici
Sugar Plantations of Makawao, sdtate

Sugar Cane Calture, are ne oy
Supreme Court of Law, Judgesof .... Bese
Sugar Plantations near Hilo, sive See
Switzerland of Hawaii, oka betes
Telegraph Station at Diamond Head, ....
Telegraphs, Ocean and Marine Signal, ....

144 HAWAIIAN GUIDE BOOK.

Trees and Flowers in Honolulu, Names of ste Utd. abd, Home

Taro Plant, Description of ape A eke 24 |
Trip Around the Island’ of Maui, ‘at ote saga nade 87 |
Tobacco Culture, - se ere Eaerete 1154
Taxes in Hawaii, - ' te ser) ap tee Lae
Thermometer, eaten of at t Honoluln, Tate one onde: 135
Ulupalakua, Description of aetes aha cpl 55
Useful Information to REIN ddan Saat eee 121
Voleano of Kilauea, : When, 3 5 c¥ats sche 78
Volcano House, Kilauea, Janu ori oe 82
Waioli Valley, Kauai, cht Sse Set 104
Waikiki Cocoanut Grove, SAG tobe «2.4, 12, 26
Waialua, Oabu, Village of Rahat ae Able, 3l
Wailuku, Maui, Village of Sh ae erie Janie 38
Wailuku Pass and Valley, mic Aor Orc 39
Ways to Reach Molokai, = Phase vee Sots 60
Waimea,-Hawaii, Village of ea Abi dikes 64
Waimea, Kauai, Village of sobs at raleye 106
Waipio Valley, Description of 308 Goat ste. OWiOo
Water Flumes, near Hilo, one Raat sani 76
Water Falls, near Hilo, ged ntere ager %8
Waiohinu, Kau, ast ees none 95
Waimanu Valley, fe rae Rae 98
Wailua Falls, Kauai, a a cee ends 101
Waialua to Honolulu, 4A GE sede Anes 102
Wahiawa, Kauai, Bote a Po ates 109
Weather Statistics, Bevest aise ety 136
What to See and Where to Go, ita, aera Sie 22
Wonderful Caves, Kauai, aenye mee mere 105
ERRATA :

page 17—under Places of Worship, for Rey. M. Kauea, read Rey. M

Kuaea,
Page 32—9th line from top, read “‘ views in the Hawaiian Islands,”’

Page 117—in last paragraph, read ‘‘ every horse is taxed 75 cents.’

H, A, Pp. CARTER, J.D. BREWER. P.C. JONES, IR.

C. BREWER & CO.,
Shipping and Commission Merchants,

HONOLULU, OAHU, H. I.

C. H. LEWERS. J. G. DICKSON,

PE) Bip Sain ee)

IMPORTERS AND

Dealers in Lumber!
And all kinds of Building Materials.

Levehetar Gameususpty SE) ee Gaop COpEAOneRe SSCA

F. A: SCHAEFER & CO.,

Importers and Commission Merchants

HONOLULU, HAWAITAN ISLANDS.

MACFARLANE § fp.

IMPORTERS & WHOLESALE DEALERS IN
WINES, ALES AND SPIRITS,

KAAHUMANU STREET, Honotutu, H, I,

ALEX. J. CARTWRIGHT,

Shipping and Commission Merchant.

Agent of N. Y. Board of Underwriters,
Agent Imperial Fire Insurance Co., London,

Agent Equitable Life Assurance Society, N. Y.,

AGENT FOR WELLS, FARGO & CO.

HONOLULU, OAHU.
ESTABLISHED IN 1849.3

A, 8. CLEGHORN. JNO. S. SMITHIES,

A. 8S. CLEGHORN & CO.,

IMPORTERS AND WHOLESALE AND

Retail Dealers in General Merchandise;

Corner of Queen and Kaahumanu Streets,
Nuuanu St., and Corner Fort and Hotel Sts.

AND BRANCH STORES IN EVERY PRINCIPLE PLACE IN
THE KINGDOM.

HONOLULU, OAHU, H. I.

———————

M. PHILLIPS & CO.,
IMPORTERS, WHOLESALE AND
Retail Dealers in Fashionable Clothing,

HATS, GENTS’ FURNISHING GOODS,
Boots, Shoes, Faney Goods, Tobacco, Ete.,

No. 11 Kaauumanu Sr., Honoxvty, H. L.,

Above the Banking House of Bishop & Co.

M. S. GRINBAUM & CO.,
Importers of General Merchandise,
MAKkEE’sS BLOCK, QUEEN STREET,

HONOLULU, H. I.

E. P. ADAMS,

FLUCTIONEER AND COMMISSION MERCHANT,
(Robinson’s Fire-Proof Building, )

Queen STLCES Tye. tnecgeeceesneevesen Honolulu, H. I.

E. 0. HALL & SON,

IMPORTERS AND DEALERS IN HARDWARE, PAINTS, OILS,

4 AND .-
GENERAL MERCHANDISE,

Corner of Fort and King Streets, Honolulu, H. I.

HYMAN BROTHERS,
IMPORTERS OF

English, German & American Dry Goods,

GENTS’ FURNISHING GOODS,

SNow’s BUILDING, - - Mrrowant Srrext:

H. HACKFELD & CO., -

GENERAL COMMISSION AGENTS,

Queen Street, Honolulu, H. f.

Wo G, IRWIN 2) Gos

Commission Merchants,

Plantation and Insurance Agents,

Honoxvuy, H. I.

JOHN T. WATERHOUSE,

IMPORTER AND

PEALER IN GENERAL MeRcHANDISE

Queen Street, Honolulu, H. I.

CECIL BROWN,

Attorney and Counsellor at Law,

Notary Public and Agent for taking Acknowledgments of
Instruments for the Island of Oahu.

No. 8 Kaahumanu Street, Honolulu, H. I.

WILDER & Co.,

IMPORTERS AND

Dealers in all Kinds of Building Materials

HONOLULU, OAHU, H. I.

MER

MARCHANT, MASTER.

STEA
Regular communication with all the other Islands.
_ SAM’L G. WILDER, Ageni.
MUTUAL
fa FE |NSURANCE lo.
OF NEW YORK.

Samuel G. Wilder, Agent.-

IENRY May,

TEA DEALER, COPPEE ROASTER,
PROVISION MERCHANT,

59 Fort Street, - - - = = Honolulu, H. I.

FAMILES, PLANTATIONS AND SHIPS SUPPLIED
WITH THE

Choicest European and American Goods!

California Produce by Every Steamer.

PINE Prp frona [OFFEE

ROASTED AND GROUND ON THE MOST APPROVED PRINCIPLES
AND GUARANTEED PURE.

An Extensive Assortment of Fine Teas
from China and Japan direct.

The greatest care taken in packing goods for Naval and

Merchant Vessels,

er Prckson,

PHOTOGRAPHER, 61 FORT ST., HONOLULU.

—_—— —E

(9)

ALWAYS ON HAND AND FOR SALE LOW

A CHOICE ASSORTMENT OF

Photographs of Hawaiian Scenery, &ec.,
From more than two hundred Negatives.

ee ee

Curiosity hunters will find at this establishment a splendid

BoleceoneD tL:

-YOLCANIO SPECIMENS,
CORALS, SHELLS,
WAR IMPLEMENTS,
FERNS, MATS,
KAPAS, &c.,

AND A GREAT VARIETY OF

OTHER HAWAIIAN & MICRONESIAN CURIOSITIES

PICTURE FRAMES A SPECIALITY.

DILLINGHAM & Co.,
Importers and Wholesale and Retail Dealers in all Kinds of

HARDWARE AND AGRICULTURAL
LMPLEMEN TS!

‘0.

SAUCE PANS, FRY PANS, THEA KETTLES,
IRON POTS, FURNACE BOILERS.

Heavy Block Tin Milk Pail and Pans,
The Best Hickory Carriage Material,
Table and Pocket Cutlery, Scissors and Razors,
Butcher Knives and Steels,
Guns, Pistols, Caps and Cartridges,

Best Sporting and Giant Powder, Seine and Wrapping Twine,
Fish Hooks and Lines.

- Kerosene Lamps, Chandeliers, Lanterns and Oil!

Hubbuck’s Best White Lead, Zine and Linseed Oil,
Colored Paints, in Oil and Dry,
Byam’s Celebrated Card Matches,
The Real Manila, sizes from 14 to 1}-in

CARRIAGE WHIPS, HORSE BITS, BRIDLES & SPURS,
HORSE CART AND PLOW HARNESSES.

BAR STEEI AND BAR IrROW:
LOG AND TRACE CHAINS, TOPSAIL CHAINS.

ALL THE ABOVE WILL BE SOLD

At the Lowest Market Prices and on the Most
Reasonable Terms !

No. 95 King Street, Honolulu, H. I.

BisHop & Co.,,

BANKERS.

FIONOLULU, PAHU, - - + FAWAIIAN JSLANDS.

DRAW EXCHANGE ON

GEE ee ope CAHPORNI A pe PR AREIBEP

AND THEIP AGENTS IN

New York,
Boston,
Paris,
Auckland,
THE ORIENTAL BANK CORPORATION, LONDON,

AND THEIR BRANCHES IN
HONGKONG,
: SYDNEY, and
: MELBOURNE,
And transact a General Banking Business.

Fireman’s Fund Insurance Company.

. Fire and Marine Insurance on the most favorable
Terms. Apply to :

BISHOP & CO., Agents.

JOHN H, PATY,
NOTARY PUBLIC AND

COMMISSIONER OF DEEDS FOR THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA.

Office at the Bank of Bishop & Co..

Keahumaau St., Honolulu.

S.-H ckSebe, | Ee: ATHERTON. 3. Pi COOKE.
CASTLE & COOKE,
SHIPPING AND COMMISSION MERCHANTS,

IMPORTERS AND DEALERS IN
GENERAL MERCHANDISE,
NO. 80 KING ST, HONOLULU, H. I.

AGENTS FO Re

The Union Insurance Company of San Francisco, California,
The New England Mutual Life Insurance Co., Boston,
The Oregon Packet Line,
Dr, Jayne & Son’s Celebrated Medicines,
Wheeler & Wilson’s Sewing Machines,
The Kohala Plantatioti,
The Haiku Plantation,
W. H. Bailey’s Plantation,
Waialua Plantation,
Hamakua Plantation.

A. W. PIERCE & CO,
SHIP CHANDLERS

— AND —

GENERAL COMMISSION MERCHANTS,
HONOLULU, OAHU, H. I.

Agents Puuloa Salt Works,
Brand’s Bomb Lances, and
Perry Davis’ Painkiller,

"GAZETTE PRINTING ESTABLISHMENT,

Merchant Street, over the Post-Office,
HONOLULU, H. I.
——S 1

ERyery kind of Printing required for Steamers, Programmes
for Concerts, Business Cards, &c., executed at
short notice and reasonable prices.

CHULAN & CO,

Importers and Dealers in China Goods

_OF ALL, DESCRIPTIONS, .
AND IN ALL KINDS OF DRY GOODS.

Also, constantly on hand
A Superior Quality of Hawaiian Rice.
Nuvanu Srrpur, Hoyonvqw.

E, B. FRIEL, -s R. W. Larne.
FRIEL & LAINE,
FAMILY GROCERY
Odd Fellows’ Building, 52 Fort St.. Honolulu, ihe

Importers of and dealers in Choice Groceries. Families
and Shipping supplied. All goods warranted,
Particular attention given to putting up
Stores for Officers’ and other messes -

of Vessels of War.
FINE TEAS AND COFFEE A SPECIALITY.

M. McInerny,

)MPoRTER AND Peavprin CLlorHine

FURNISHING GOODS, BOOTS AND SHOES, ~

Perfumery and Toilet Articles, Pocket Cutlery, Watches,
Diamonds, Jewelry, and Solid Silver Ware.

Ladies and Gents’ Trunks, Valises, Carpet Bags.

TRAVELERS AND TOURISTS SUPPLIED- AND PERFECT
SATISFACTION GUARANTEED.

Corner Fort and Merchant Sts., Honolulu, H. I.

BOLLES & CO.,

SHIP CHANDLERS AND COMMISSION MERCHANTS,
_ IMPORTERS AND DEALERS IN GENERAL MERCHANDISE,

No. 34 QunENn Srreet, Honoruty, Oauu, H. I.
PARTICULAR ATTENTION PAID TO THE PURCHASE OR SALE
AND SHIPPING OF HAWAIIAN PRODUCE,

Messrs, Williams & Hayen, New London, Ct. |Mossrs. Swift & Allen,-.-...-.. Now Bedford.
Messrs. J, 6. Morrill & Co.,-.--San Francisco. |Mossrs. C. Brower & Co..---- Honolulu, 2. au

AFONG & ACHUCK,
Importers and Dealers in China Goods,

INCLUDING
TEAS, SILKS, MATTING,
GOLD AND SILVER JEWELERY,
-TORTOISE AND CRYSTAL JEWELRY,
IVORY WARE AND CURIOS,

Also—Agents for the Kaupakuea Sugar Plantation.
Nuvanv Street, Honoxvxn, H. I.

F. T,. LENEHAN § CO.,

IMPORTERS AND COMMISSION MERCHANTS,
AND WHOLESALE:
Dealers in General Merchandise,

Queen St., Honolulu, H. I.

HAWALLAN HOTEL!

—— ENTRANCE —

Ou Hotel, Richard, Berétania and Alakea Sts.

HONOLULU, HAWAIIAN ISLANDS,

THE PROPRIETOR (ALLEN HERBERT)
Will spare no pains fo make
THIS ELWGANT HOTEL FIRST-CLASS IN EVERY

PARTICULAR! [!

Pel Hee US CAGE TLE
IN CONNECTION WITH THE HOTEL,
SINGLE, oR DOUBLE CARRIAGES, AND FOUR IN
HAND, WITH POLITE AND TRUSTY DRIVERS.
=e Fo 0,51 8) see

LADIES’ AWD GENTLEMEN’S SADDLE HORSES!

HONOLULU IRON WORKS

COMPANY,

[RON AND BRASS FOUNDERS, ENGINEERS,

Machinists and Boilermakers.

—

Manufacture and Repair Engines, Boilers,

Sugar Mills, Vacuum Pans and

PLANTATION MACHINERY OF EVERY DESCRIPTION.

All kinds of Work required by
Merchant and Naval Ships or Steamers,
Whether iron or wood— executed with despatch.

A LARGE ASSORTMENT OF

Bar and Pilate iron and Other Material,

Being kept on hand to meet the requirements of
vessels putting into this report for repairs.

$60,000 to $100,000 Worth of Material Constantly in Stock |

The Works are complete with Steam Tlammer, and the
most modern tools and appliances of a first-rate engineering
establishment, with a full staff of first-class mechanics,
boilermakers and smiths always employed.

Theo. H. Davies,
Importer and Commission Merchant.

eee

Agent for
LLOYDS’ AND THE
LIVERPOOL UNDER W-. RITERS,
NORTHERN ASSURANCE COMPANY,
AND BRITISH AND FOREIGN
MARINE INSURANCE COMPANY.

Fire-Proof Buildings, Kaahumanu and Queen Streets.

% 34 ESTABLISHED 1858. &
$ | L
HAVANA AND GERMAN CIGARS,

Turkish, Porto Rico, and Kanasta

Smoking Tobaccoa.

CONSTANTLY ON HAND, THE VERY BEST
oe ee
Smoking and Chewing Tobacco!
MEERSCHAUM PIPES,
CIGAR HOLDERS, &C., &C.

H. J, NOLTE,

Corner Queen and Nuuanu Sts., Honolulu, H. J.

THOS, G. THRUM,
IMPORTING AND MANUFACTURING =
STATIONER, NEWS DEALER & BOOK- “BINDER

MERCHANT STREET, NEAR FORT, HONOLULY, H, 1,

SSS SD ———

ee GOW SE AWN Tee “Oa ee Sa i
A PULL ASSORTMENT OF BLANK BOOKS!

WRITING PAPERS,
_Foolscap, Letter aid Note, —

Flat Papérs—all sizes,
Drawing Paper, Tracing Paper,
Tracing Cloth, Rubbers,
: Faber’s Drawing Pencils,.
; Inkstands, Gold Pens,
Steel & Quill Pens.

INKS—IN VARIETY. ENVELOPES—ALL SIZES,

Hart’s and De la Rue’s Playing Cards,
Checker Boards, '

Cribbage Boards and Pegs, bs

Wood and Ivory Chess Men.

Books relating to the Hawaiian Islands
Photographs of Hawatian Celebrities and Scenes,

. ET ROtOe Eas ts Wiew7 of EXonolulu

(AS SEEN FROM THE REEF)

Size,9x24 inches, acknowledged to be the best yet taken,

Together with Many Other Articles.

Publishor of the Hawaiian Almanac and Annual.

TPA an:

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HAWATIAN DANCING CIRL.

I HENRY M. WHITNEY,
FURPIER: ROP EREP EER

—AND—

TMPORTER OF AMERICAN AND KUROPEAN |
BOOKS AND STATIONERY,

NMierchant St., Honolulu,

Next door to General Post-Office.

3

0

HAWAIIAN, AMERICAN, EUROPEAN & AUSTRALIAN -
| PERLODIC ALS 1 |
In English, French and Geren,

On Hand and Received by every Arrival.

=}

Jarves’ History of the Hawaiian Islands,
Andrew’s Dictionary of the Hawaiian Language’
Hawaiian Grammar and Phrase Book,
Charts of the Hawaiian Archipelago.

oO

LATE AMERICAN AND ENGLISH WORKS ON THE
: HAWAIIAN ISLANDS. .
FOR SALE BY

tt : ' - ' = Sean il hn
i i SRG, ETT AS TE I TP IE a TA TELE ASSESS? EEE SEY EME SLD ITT, eT
oad et — = ~ = = 7 ~ aaa :
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7 Henry M. Whitney. |