bi o.ge ne x ; ; bei Re geese : fh Se re Bes : : 5 : 5 oS Aiport <5 Pear a ey Dey sti DORR i pale ‘ela Aer setae a de ST ie SS nas Eseries Sane e epee eons bitten ences ed phat cliarew RRS ee Siemens Mp peat eu cpas es Ep inne ener Desa nerves ees ev ¥ DUA Rie Hoe Sn ~ ae setetatate! Aa tine SP ets tins Re accor ec ee RS eR OD ae UTS Sere v ove Ne ERAS 3 Te = = e ——— = - aa EXTRACT FROM THE PUBLICATION OF CAPTAIN SIR EDWARD BELCHER, R.N. i ENTITLED ’ NARRATIVE OF - A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, - PERFORMED IN HER MAJESTY’S SHIP SULPHUR, DURING THE YEARS 1836—42. LONDON : PRINTED BY G. J. PALMER, SAVOY STREET, STRAND. A ae REGIONS OF VEGETATION; BEING AN ANALYSIS OF THE DISTRIBUTION OF VEGETABLE FORMS OVER THE SURFACE OF THE GLOBE IN CONNEXION WITH CLIMATE AND PHYSICAL AGENTS. BY RICHARD BRINSLEY HINDS, Esa. SURGEON, R. N. LONDON : PRINTED BY G. J. PALMER, SAVOY STREET, STRAND. : 1843. ADVERTISEMENT. Her Majesty’s ship Sulphur was the school in which I more particularly studied geographic botany. Precon- ceived views, and results drawn from the perusal of the writings of scientific travellers, were here practically tested. Her extensive voyage, and rapid transition from one portion of land to another, afforded rich and most favourable sources of comparison. With a bias towards the subject, it was an occupation of delight to develope the principles of the study, and to apply them to a result. Climate is the basis on which the earliest data must be founded, and with the liberal use of instruments, observa- tions on temperature and humidity were in time col- lected. These, with observations on the physical condi- tion of the surface, furnish us with many of the circum- stances which govern the distribution of the flora of the world. What I have accomplished under these heads. has been collected together, and forms the subject of a lengthened paper, which, through the liberality of the proprietors of the Annals of Natural History, has been already published. Naturally following the consideration of physical agents, were the subjects of original distribu- tion, amount, relative proportion to space, and similar de- tails; but which I have not yet ventured to make public. ADVERTISEMENT. The result of these investigations was the develope- ment of regions of vegetation, and which had their origin and stability in previously established views. At the same time, I do not insist that these are natural, but that taken in their entireness, they present, in situations, cir- cumstances of remarkable individuality. In the mean- time they will be found eminently useful in studying the features of vegetation, and more particularly in leading the subject to the naturalization of plants—the great end and aim of geographic botany. My views respecting these regions have been more fully dwelt on in Sir W. J. Hooker’s Journal of Botany for June 1842, and our space here does not permit me to enter on these at a greater length. It is enough to add that these regions are the result of observations matured during the voyage, and that with fourteen of them I have been practically acquainted. R; 3. HH. CONTENTS. AMERICA, NORTH. I. The Greenland region II. The North-West America region III, The Canada region IV. The Iroquois region V. The California region VI. The Prairie region VIL. The Chihuahua region VIII. The Central America region IX. The Mexico Alpine region X. The West India region AMERICA, SOUTH. XI. The Oronoco region ; XII. The Andes region , ‘ XIII. The Amazon region XIV. The Paraguay region XV. The Chili and Peru region XVI. The Pampas region XVII. The Patagonia region AUSTRALIA. XVIII. The Polynesia region . . XIX. The Papua or New Guinea region XX. The Australia Tropic region XXI. The New South Wales region XXII. The West Australia region XXIII. The Van Diemen’s Land region XXIV. The New Zealand region CONTENTS. AFRICA. XXV. The South Africa region XXVI. The Mozambique region XXVII. The Madagascar region XXVIII The West Africa region XXIX. The Canary Islands region XXX. The Barbary region XXXI. The Nile region XXXII. The Asia Minor region XXXIII. The Arabia region XXXIV. The Tartary region XXXV. The Siberia region XXXVI. The Japan region XXXVII. The China region XXXVIII. The Birmah region XXXIX. The Malaisia region XL. The Hindostan region XLI. The Himmaleh region EUROPE. XLII. The Spain region XLITI. The Italy region XLIV. The Danube region XLV. The Alps region : XLVI. The Central Europe region XLVII. The Volga region XLVIII. The Ocean region THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. I.—THE GREENLAND REGION. Exrenr.—An important portion of the northern hemi- sphere is occupied by a vegetation entirely without trees, and covering a dreary, bleak, inhospitable surface, hardly capable, even in the most favoured spots, of any cultiva- tion. Greenland composes much of this, and the region further comprises that part of America to the north of a line commencing at Hudson’s Bay in 60° N. lat., thence stretching to 68° at the Mackenzie river, and continued to Behring’s Straits; with that part of Siberia to the north of 65°, and Iceland, Spitzbergen, and Melville island, The natural course of this line is with the forest, obeying its sinuosities and sweeps, and will be found to enclose a region of some peculiarities. The northern limit of course only ceases with the vegetation. Paysicat Cuaractrers.—Thesurfaceis usually extremely rocky and rugged, destitute of soil, and maintaining its flora in sheltered valleys and rayines. It is now a re- 10 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. ceived fact, that all those plants mutually existing in the northern parts of Europe and America are found in this region; hence it seems to have been a region of trans- mission, and to have been eminently active in supplying the northern parts of these two portions of the globe with many plants In common. Cuimate.—There are but two seasons, summer and winter, which succeed each other with surprising rapidity. The latter is severe and protracted, and occupies a large portion of the year; summer suddenly follows on its decline, and from the now protracted presence of the sun much heat is accumulated. The activity of the vegetation would appear to be in proportion to the duration and com- pleteness of its dormant condition, and is very characte- ristic. In Greenland, the range of the thermometer during the year is from 84° to—48°, or 132 degrees. Frora.—Shrubs compose the larger vegetation; they are not the large bushy plants known as such in tempe- rate and warm climates, but are of dwarf stature, and appear to be struggling against the elements to attain that state which nature has destined them to assume; thus some of them are only a few inches high; still they are numerous, and have sometimes showy flowers with brilliant colours. Leguminose, umbellifere, caryophyllee, and erucifere, have a smaller share in the vegetation than might be expected ; bnt ranunculacee, saxifrages, and ericacee, hold a more important station, and the propor- tion of graminee has greatly increased. It is, how- ever, among cellulares that the greatest change is mani- fest, particularly in musci. Greenland has a flora of 403 species, of which 172 are phenogamous, and 231 cryptogamous. Theseare distributed among 137 genera and 45 natural families. On analysis, the phenogamous species are found to be in proportion NORTH-WEST AMERICA REGION. 4 to the genus as 2 to 1, the cryptogamus as 4°5 to 1; taking the whole flora, the value of the genus is 2-9, of the natural family 3; of the phenogamous genus 2, of the cryptogamous 4:5; of the phenogamous family 2:3, of the crytogamous 7:3. The genera have few species compared with Iceland; saxifraga, draba, ranunculus stellaria, cerastium, epilobium,; pedicularis, eriophorum, Juncus, carex, and salix, being the only phenogamous genera with more than three species. There are no trees; pyrus aucuparia reaches 61° as a small shrub, and about a dozen species are peculiar. Iceland, situated between 63° and 68° N. lat., has 652 species. Of these 359 are phenogamous, and 293 crypto- gamous. Umbellifere constitute 109th part, leguminose 8st, cruciferee 40th, composite 33rd, and graminee 15th. The most numerous phenogamous genera are salix, saxi- fraga, ranunculus, gentiana, veronica, potamogeton, plantago, epilobium, rumex, polygonum, geranium, hieraceum, gnaphalium, orchis, carex, juncus, agrostis, aira, poa, festuca. Melville island, in 75° N. lat., has 116 species distri- buted between 22 families; or of phenogamous plants 67, and of cryptogamous 49. A few of the species are not found elsewhere, and it may have a genus of its own, at present an unsettled point. Retations.—The most interesting are with the three upper regions of alpine vegetation, where many of its characteristic features reappear. Il—THE NORTH-WEST AMERICA REGION, Eixrent.—The rocky mountains and Pacific Ocean on the east and west, and 68° N. lat., and the Columbia river to the north and south, enclose this region. iy THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. Puysicat Cuaracrers.—Thesurface is irregular, consist- ing entirely of mountain and valley, without the least pre- tensions to plain; the former composed chiefly of primi- tive rocks, among which granite is abundant, quartz is sometimes seen, and rarely, I believe, limestone. The soil is often rich, from the great accumulation and rapid decomposition of vegetable remains. Cumate.—Being freely exposed to winds from the ocean, and westerly winds prevailing, the climate is con- siderably modified. Compared with Europe, it is far cooler for the latitude, and with the opposite coast with- out those extremes so common there. It is, however, much more moist than either, and the rainy days are very frequent. In 56° N. lat., the mean temperature has been ascertained to be 45°5, and the range of the year from 2°3 to 81°9. Only thirty-seven really clear and fine days were experienced, on forty-six snow fell, and on the rest more or less rain. This was at Sitka, or New Archangel. At the Columbia river in 46° N. lat., being the southern limit, and with an interval from the above of ten degrees, the mean-temperature is 54°, the annual range from 18° to 92°, number of rainy days 157, the quantity of rain 53°6 inches, and snow is rarely seen. Frora.—Though the inequalities of the surface are great, soil is abundant, and the investing vegetation vigo- rous. The constant moisture favours premature decay: and thus the trees are early undermined, and falling from their ranks in the forest, cover the ground in vast num- bers. It is not easy to conceive how thickly the surface is crowded with these, unless by recalling something like the vast accumulations of the coal measures. Within the tropics I have never seen anything equal to the scene of devastation the northern part of this region presents ; trunks of trees, of great length and clear of branches, enn eee NORTH-WEST AMERICA REGION. to are seen on all sides strewed in tiers, and covered with a dense agamic vegetation. It would often seem that they were unable to attain a good old age, as, always exposed to moisture from the repeated rains, they have yielded to its influence immediately that period of life arrived when the activity of vegetation diminishes. Here everything is moist, the soil is completely saturated, mosses and lichens are in their liveliest vigour, and much of the surface is swampy. Tracing the regions from Prince William’s Sound in 6) north latitude to the east, and then to the south, the — whole will be found to be covered with one vast forest. It extends to the north as far as the boundary line, and to the south, through several degrees of latitude, to the Columbia river, where a sudden change occurs, and which is a very decided line of demarkation between this and the California region. Returning fora moment to Prince William’s Sound, a tongue of land stretches from it to Oonalaska and the other islands of the Aleutian chain, over which there is no forest, and the only ap- proach to trees is a few stunted spruces in the sheltered valleys. But the vegetation is very luxuriant, and to- wards the close of summer the roses, willows, and lupins form a dense mass not easy to penetrate. At this time, on the sides of the lower mountains, sustaining towards their summits irregular patches of snow, there is a rich- ness and quiet beauty about the flora particularly attrac- tive, for many of the flowers are showy, and their colours clear and brilliant. Here especially are mimulus luteus, geranium eriostemon, lupinus nootkatensis, making the surface quite blue with its flowers, epilobium latifolium, polemonium humile, and some ferns and grasses, many of the latter of which are in common with Europe. : Elsewhere the forest, though dense, consists of but few 14 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. species; abies has three, which, with cupressus thyoides, constitute all the larger trees, whilst some smaller are contributed by crategus, salix, cerasus, betula, and to the south diospyros. The undergrowth of shrubs is so extremely luxuriant, that it appears a chief characteristic, and, regardless of the shade of the forest, flourishes in great vigour. These shrubs are chiefly the species of vaccinium, men- ziesia, rubus, and ribes, which, though numerous in spe- cies, have a multitude of individuals. Towards the south, lonicera involucrata, mahonia glumacea, symphoria racemosa, gaultheria shallon are superadded, and par- ticularly aspidium munitum, a handsome fern, very social, and covering portions of the surface to the ex- clusion of others. Another peculiarity is, that though some of the genera appear through several degrees of ) latitude, they are continued by new spegies ; thus ribes, rubus, rosa, and lupinus, are seen everywhere in the re- _ gion, yet each species had but a small range, and is im- \. mediately succeeded by another. Retations.—I wo plants are common which are emi- nently distinguished for their large foliage, and as members of families of a warmer climate; panax hor- ridum, a fine shrub with large showy leaves, upwards of a foot in length, has a range of growth from 45° to 61° north latitude ; and dracontium camtschaticum, with a very different habit, spreading its broad leaves over the surface, on the under side of which is usually a small hairy helix, abounds in moist situations from 61° north latitude to the Columbia River, or 46°19’. Mimulus guttatus has a wide habitat, extending from 59°30’ north latitude to 37° in California. The herbaceous plants are of families common to these latitudes, though both - eruciferee and umbelliferee are scarce, and the genera are ’ THE CANADA REGION. 15 similar 40. the European with few exceptions. The southern part mixes but feebly with the California region | > and the features are preserved singularly intact even to | i the banks of the Columbia. Here querecus commences / with many others, abies ceases suddenly, and pinus ) es partly supplies its place, nor disappearing from the | elevated lands till it arrives in the vicinity of Panama. | A collection of plants from its northern part contained about one half common with the north of Europe, and a similar number with Siberia. III.—THE CANADA REGION. Exrent.—To the west the Rocky Mountains, and s&s to the east the Atlantic Ocean; in the south a line commencing on the coast in 44° north latitude, thence to the margin of Lake Erie and to the Mississippi, then taking a north, and afterwards a north-west direction by the north branch of the Saskatchawan river to the Rocky Mountains. Its northern outline is irregular, being determined by the forest; towards Hudson’s Bay it crosses the country in 60° north latitude; but attains a higher latitude to the west, till it reaches 68°, near the Mackenzie River. Puysicat Cuaracrers.—Much of this surface is covered with forest. There are no important mountain chains, though smaller ranges separate several large plains. These have generally a fruitful alluvial soil, but wild rocky districts are not uncommon, too dreary and inhospitable to support a vigorous vegetation. The primary moun- tains of the Iroquois region pass its southern boundary, and separate some plains in the vicinity of the lakes and the St. Lawrence, the luxuriant fertility of which, 16 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. according to Murray, is almost unsurpassed, and whose characteristics are limestone rocks, waters highly charged with caleareous matter, and copious deposits of gypsum and marl. Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and the is- lands, form an important portion of the region. Here granite, clay-stone, sandstone, and limestone, constitute the basis on which the soil reposes. In Prince Edward’s Island the soil is fertile, and though occasional masses of granite occur, scareely a stone or pebble is to be seen; sandstone is the basis of the island, and clay abounds. In Newfoundland the surface is more rocky, secondary formations prevail, with coal and various sandstones. Of Labrador little more is known than that it is covered with a vast forest, and is unusually inclement for the latitude. Curmats.— This varies considerably, but is every- where severe for the latitude. Like the United States the extremes of temperature are intense, and with the anomaly that the seasons of Lower Canada run into greater extremes than Upper Canada, or that the range is greater near the sea than inland. Summer and winter succeed each other so rapidly, that spring and autumn are not distinguishable. About the close of October, sharp frosts commence, heavy falls of sleet and snow occur in November, and this state of the weather prevails till the middle or end of December, when it rapidly yields to aclear sky anda frosty atmosphere, which continue till nearly the end of March. A rapid change now takes place ; a fervid sun bursts forth, which melt- ing the snows and unlocking the frozen streams, vegeta- tion appears with magic haste, and every spot is beau- tiful and green with verdure. From May to September inclusive, a warm and oppressive summer prevails. Frora.—Unlike the neighbouring lroquois region, the THE IROQUOIS REGION. 17 forest offers little variety in its trees, these being chiefly spruces, as abies alba, a. nigra, a. canadensis, with occasionally thuja occidentalis, pinus resinosa, and larix microcarpa. Mixed with these are several trees with deciduous leaves, but they do not extend quite so far north, nor so completely enter into the composition of the forest; quercus ambigua, betula papyracea, b. lenta, b. excelsa, populus balsamifera, p. tremuloides, p. grandidentata; and with limits something more southern, acer saccharinum, a. rubrum, fagus ferru- ginea, ulmus americana. A close compact forest is unfavourable to the humbler vegetation, and thus there is no great variety ; and in the present instance is more’ _ particularly characterised by shrubs of cerasus, sambucus, viburnum, salix, rhodora, sedum, kalmia, ribes, rubus, rosa, and amelanchier. Rexations.—Among the herbaceous plants are many _ peculiar species, but almost always of genera widely diffused over other parts of the continent or of Europe. About half-a-dozen genera only seem peculiar. Wher- | ever, during a portion of the year, the climate possesses — considerable warmth, there will generally be found re- presentatives of forms belonging more abundantly to warmer. latitudes; here, accordingly, are met with two species of panax, two of aralia, and draczna borealis. IV.—THE IROQUOIS REGION. Exrzyr.—I have attempted, in the name of this region, toconnect the memory of the brave Indians with the magnificent forests they once claimed as their own. The word was applied collectively to several tribes of North Americans, well known in their day as the Six Nations, Cc 18 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. and closely concerned in the early political transactions of this country. They were the admiration of their co- temporaries, but nothing now remains of them, unless sufficient of their history to adorn a tale. Perhaps a few solitary descendants may be traced out, far from the land of their fathers, but no more, The forests them- selves are disappearing under the thrift and industry of their greatest enemy, the white man; the trees that once sheltered the Indian lodge are falling beneath the axe of the regenerator; and the trackless forest, so -often traversed by the skilful hunter and dauntless war- rior, is now covered with corn-fields, canals, and rail- roads. The boundary of this region commences on the coast of the Atlantic in 44° north latitude, and proceeds, just skirting the southern margin of Lake Erie, onward to the Mississippi. It now continues along the edge of the forest on its western shore, approaching it more closely at its mouth than in its northern course; and afterwards crossing Florida in 27° north latitude, with the Gulf of Mexico and the Atlantic Ocean, it incloses an irregular parallelogram of about 690,000 square miles. Puysicat Cuaracters.—This surface is unequally di- vided by the Alleghany mountains, which slope towards the Atlantic and the Mississippi. The latter has also a gra- dual and regular ascent from the Gulf of Mexico to the lakes of Canada, of 1,200 feet. Both of these plains abound in a fruitful soil wherever the forest has been removed, but superior fertility and excellence belongs to that between the mountains and the Mississippi. The mountain system, though attaining no great elevation, has a length of 1,200 miles, and oceupies a belt of about one hundred, of which two-thirds are estimated to consist of valleys. It traverses the region obliquely from north- THE IROQUOIS REGION. 19 east to south-west, and has an average height of between 2,000 to 3,000 feet, the highest summits never exceeding the latter. There are elsewhere some loftier elevations, Mount Washington being 6,428 feet, and the Black Mountain in Carolina 6,476 feet. The Alleghanies are divided into four distinct ridges, and are chiefly composed of primary stratified rocks. This stratification is very generally prevalent, and one of its effects is visible in the numerous cascades, falls, and rapids of the rivers. Gneiss, granite, sienite, and hornblende are frequent in the northern parts, and are equally the basis of the plains as of the mountains. Towards the south the granitic rocks in a great measure disappear, and are supplanted by an extensive limestone formation. Much of the surface of the plain between the mountains and the Atlantic is covered by sand, which in many instances is far more productive than might be imagined, from, it is supposed, a submersion to which it was formerly exposed. There are likewise extensive patches of marsh or moist meadow land, and nearer the sea occasionally inundated districts. Criimate.—With so wide an extent of latitude, there will be much difference in the climate. Generally it may be called a climate of extremes, particularly in the northern part, where this feature is experienced in greatest force. The vicissitudes are great, and accom- plished with much rapidity; the extreme of heat and cold even ina single day is immense, and it has been known to be 41°; 28° is mentioned as common. After the hottest days, the nights may be piercingly cold. An American writer has summed up a detail of his climate by observing, that in spring it has the moisture of Britain, in summer the fervid heats of Africa, in June the bland warmth of Italy, in winter the snows of Norway and i, 20 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. the ice of Holland, the tempestuous winds of the West Indies, and in all seasons the variable weather of Great Britain. Such a combination is not likely to be favour- able to the human race, but under it the vegetation is ndoubtedly varied and luxuriant. Plants love a warm atmosphere, especially if combined with brilliancy of the sun’s rays; and a succeeding cold season, instead of proving hurtful, seems rather to prepare them to expand in the coming summer with unusual vigour. Fuora.—A vast impervious forest onee covered the whole eastern part of North America. Towards the north it commenced around the shores of Hudson’s Bay, reaching as far as 60°; and stretched towards the south in one broad mass, bounded on one side by the Atlantic Ocean, and on the other by the Mississippi, the father of rivers. It did not quite confine itself to the east side, but crossing the river, continued down its west bank in a belt of fifty or a hundred miles broad. The only interrup- tions throughout its extent were occasioned by two in- roads of prairie, mentioned under that region. To the south it received no check till it arrived on the margins of the Mexican Sea. A portion of this forest comprises the present region. Beyond the northern boundary of the latter the forest consists of but few species, but to its south a new state of things prevails ; for many new and extensive genera now contribute their species, and bestow an unrivalled variety. One hundred and fifty distinct kinds of trees are known, of which eighty attain an height upwards of sixty feet. Of these the most peculiar to the region are the various carya, nyssa, liriodendron, taxo- dium, robinia, and gymnocladus. A small part only of this forest has been removed; but where this has hap- pened a material change has been produced in the vegetation. Its original herbaceous plants, which re- THE IROQUOIS REGION. pai quired shelter and protection, have disappeared from the clearings, and were replaced by strangers. But if the forest again resumes possession of the soil the old inha- bitants return, to the exclusion of the intruders. The numerous species furnishing these trees are, with few exceptions, peculiar, and, including those just mentioned, belong to the following genera, many of them having several species :—Quercus, ulmus, pinus, juglans, dios- pyros, cupressus, acer, negundo, laurus, celtis, gleditschia, virgilia, magnolia, tilia, maclura, cesculus, pavia, corylus, fraxinus, ostrya, juniperus, morus, rhus, rosa, euonymus, rhamnus, hamiltonia, hydrangea, prinos, eclethra, kal- mia, crateegus, comptonia, myrica, sorbus, halesia, ber- beris, olea, philadelphus, malus, cerasus, gordonia; but many of the latter are only shrubs. Among herbaceous plants the most characteristic are, in Labiate, collinsonia, salvia, gardoquia, calamintha, hyptis, ceranthera, macbridea, monarda, cunila, scutel- laria, hyssopus; Scrophularinee, seymeria, gerardia, ma- cranthera, herpestis, gratiola, pentstemon, orobanche, antirrhinum, mimulus ; Huphorbiacee, croton, euphorbia, phyllanthus, jatropha, tragia; Ranunculacee, clematis, thalictrum, delphinium, ranunculus ; Composite,—these are extremely numerous and varied; aster and solidago on which Schouw has erected a region, but they are as- sembled with so many others that it is giving them an- undue importance ; liatris, a characteristic group, helian- themum, coreopsis, rudbeckia, eupatorium, prenanthes, apogon, krigia, borkhausia, stokesia, vernonia, cacalia, hymenopappus, erigeron, arnica, verbesina, chaptalia, galardia, baldwinia, elephantopus, senecio, lactuca, eni- cus, hieraceum; Leguminose, desmodium, lespedeza, in- digofera, stylosanthes, baptisia, astragalus, tephrosia, lupinus, two species with simple leaves; trifolium is not 2D, THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. common; Stellate, houstonia, galium, rubia; Polemo- niacee, phlox, polemonium; Papaveracee, sanguinaria, meconopsis; Apocynee, amsonia, anantherix, polyotus, asclepias, stylandra, apocynum ; Umbellifere, eryngium, hydrocotyle, leptocaulis, daucus, tiedmannia ; Crucifere are scarce, but hesperis prevails; Thymelee has only one representative; among Orchidacee are habenaria, coral- lorhiza, orchis, triphora, malaxis, eypripedium, eranachis, bletia, spiranthes, epidendrum ; and of other endogene iris, phalangium, yucca, agave, canna, tradescantia, com- melina, amaryllis, crinum, paneratium. To complete this sketch must be added, podophyllum, diclytra, claytonia, erythronium, mikania, smilax, vitis, polygala, hyperi- cum, lobelia, enothera, silene, arum, nymphea, nuphar, vallisneria, villarsia, sagittaria, zizania, sarracenia, dio- nea, drosera, oxalis, solanum, rhexia, several species, jus- sizea, mitreola, spilegia, gentiana and sabbatia, various beautiful kinds, eriogonum, pleea-like dionea with a limited habitat, warea, tiaridium, and numerous ferns. A strong tendency exists in the southern portions to display tropical characters, as 1s evident from some of the endogene already mentioned, and is farther confined by tillandsia, bromelia, epiphytic orchidacee, chameerops palmetto, and other palms; sapindus, passiflora, turnera, bignonia, croton, and pontederia. The monomic* families are very few, and are confined to podophyllacee, sarraceniacee, and limnanthacee ; of genera 332 are monomic in North America, which is certainly a large number to have so limited a range. \'There are two which are singularly absent, erica and | fieus; for the latter might be expected in the south, since ' it is so plentiful in the low lands of Mexico. The forest trees are so numerous, that was it our opinion that vege- * Confined to one region. ae en ee aR THE IROQUOIS REGION. 23 tation was diffused from centres, we should almost con- sider this as that whence the temperate regions of the world had been supplied. Leguminose bear among ‘them a great proportion for the latitude Others are remarkable for the size and brilliancy of their flowers ; oceasionally for their glossy leaves; and the autumnal tints of an American forest have long charmed the ima- ginative observer. Graminez are feebly represented, and to some extent their place is supplied by juncee and cyperacex, which love the marshy lands. The range of growth of some of the trees has been carefully observed. Quercus virens, the live oak, is found along the shores of the Atlantic and the Gulf of Mexico to the Sabine river, but not more than twenty miles from the sea, and ceases at 37° N. latitude. Quercus prinus, the chesnut oak, abounds in the Atlantic states south of 41°; q. stellata, the post oak, in Maryland, Virginia, and the upper parts of Georgia and the Carolinas, preferring a dry gravelly soil; q- montana, the rock chesnut oak, valuable in ship-building, grows in stony soils on the Hudson, Lake Champlain, and in the Alleghanies of Pennsylvania and Virginia. Juglans nigra is common in a deep and fertile soil south of 43°, Acer saccharinum» the sugar maple, ranges chiefly from 48° to 46°, but is common in some parts of Pennsylvania and Genessee. Besides sugar, it yields potash abundantly, good charcoal, and a valuable wood. A. nigrum, the black sugar maple, is found farther south, and chiefly abounds in the vicinity of the rivers of the west, It yields sugar freely, but is less generally useful than the former. Betula papyracea, the canoe birch, is a northern tree, not descending be- south on the summits of the Alleghanies. B. nigra, on the banks of the rivers, from 41° to Georgia. Laurus 24 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. caroliniensis, the red bay, in swamps to the south of 37°. Diospyros virginiana is common in the United States south of 41°, Asimina triloba, the papaw, but not to be confounded with carica papaya, ceases at 40°. Populus angulata grows only to the south of 39°. Chamerops palmetto stretches along the coast of the Atlantic to 35°. This palm grows to forty or fifty feet high, and has some useful qualities. The wood is in request for wharfs and other submersed buildings, as it is not attacked by worms; it also will not splinter when struck by cannon- balls. Cornus florida only grows south of 43°, Nyssa villosa, the sour gum, south of 41°. N. biflora, the black gum, to 43°, and always in moist situations. Fraxinus acuminata abounds to the north of 41°, and its wood is so valuable for strength and elasticity, that it is exported. “Ulmus americana thrives best from 42° to 46°, but is found generally. Its wood is inferior to the European. Pinus resinosa, the red pine, is not seen south of 43°. P. palustris, a valuable tree for its wood, its copious resin, and as occupying a very arid soil, commences at Norfolk, in 37°, and stretches along the coast for 600 miles, and with a breadth of 100. P. teda, the loblolly pine, exclusively to the south of 38°. P. strobus chiefly be- tween 43° and 47°; and the tallest kinds are used for the masts of vessels. Abies canadensis, the hemlock spruce, has the same range as the last. A. nigra, chiefly from 44° to 53°. Its wood is preferred for spars, and spruce beer is made from its branches. A. alba has a similar range. Thuja occidentalis, lignum vite, or white cedar, grows with the spruces. Taxodium distichum, the bald eypress, is peculiar to swamps south of 38°. Juniperus virginiana, the red cedar, prevails south of 44° in dry exposed situations.* * For much of these details I am indebted to the interesting sketch of the eC EN THE CALIFORNIA REGION. 25 Retations.—This region is so rich in variety that very extensive relations might be expected, but though these are certainly numerous, the peculiarity of its fora is very striking. With Europe it might be supposed to have 8 many species in common; yet of 2,891 phanerogamic, J— only 385 re-appear there. The proportionate scarcity of : umbellifere, cruciferee, and trifolium, is somewhat re-' markable; and in examining the vegetation we cannot failto be impressed how closely the productions of cold and hot regions are brought together, and consequently how much the intermediate temperate portion is compressed. This appears to be the reason why the groups just men- tioned are so littleseen. With the China region there are some interesting points of resemblance, through hydran- gea, cocculus, and others; with South Africa in amaryl- lidee, India in scitaminee; and with the Patagonia and California regions through berberis, and many other genera with the latter. Clusia rosea is met with in Carolina, and several cinchonacee prevail through the region to the vicinity of the lakes. V.—THE CALIFORNIA REGION. Exrent.—After crossing the Columbia river from the north, an entirely altered vegetation commences. The dense compact forests of abies cease suddenly, and are sup- planted by an open country, spotted by occasional clump of oaks, and the river lines fringed by platanus, fraxi- nus, juglans, and salix. The outline of the region may botany of the United States, as in the American edition of Murray’s Ency- clopedia of Geography. 26 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. be traced up the Columbia river tothe Rocky Mountains, which it meets in about 50° N. latitude, and is continued along them to the south, till approaching the com- mencing waters of the Colorado, it runs along its course to the gulf of California. The remaining portion is cir- eumscribed by the Pacific Ocean. Puaysicat Cuaractrers.—lIn its northern part the sur- face is regular, and there are some well-watered fine allu- vial plains, without a rock or stone. Occasionally ranges of low mountains traverse it, chiefly of porphyry, basalt, and jasper, which are not of sufficient elevation to affect materially the vegetation, but support some groves of pinus lambertiana and abies religiosa; pinus rigida prefers the plains. The broad plains which separate them are often overflowed in the winter, which with their deep rich soil renders them very fertile. To the south, the scenery is wild and rugged, nearly altogether moun- tainous, the ranges running from north to south. Not a tree is to be seen, but there is a moderate sprinkling of a more lowly and interesting vegetation. The prevailing rocks here are serpentine, gneiss, basalt, and greenstone. There is no soil nor fertilizing streams, water being very scarce. Cuimats.—To the north the climate is even and tem- perate; the winters are mild and of short duration, and snow appears on the loftier hills; and the summers have an agreeable warmth, with the atmosphere clear and transparent. In the autumn the dews are excessively heavy. The summers of the southern portion are warmer, the temperature being generally from 60° to 74°. The rains are soon over, but during their continuance deluge the country. The atmosphere. is particularly clear, and it would also appear dry, as when signs of the THE CALIFORNIA REGION. ay wet season were gathering in the heavens, the dew-point was 62°, the shade 72°; and at the same time the sun’s rays were 115°. Fiora.—The finest part of this region is to the north, where an open country prevails, varied by patches of trees of noble growth. Of the oaks, two species are deci- duous, and two evergreen. The latter are confined to the neighbourhood of the sea coast between 38° and 34° N. latitude. The other trees are not numerous, and are chiefly comprised under platanus, acer, pavia, juglans, cornus, laurus regia, and the aromatic tetranthera cali-_ fornica. It is among these forest trees that the chief relations with the Iroquois region is established, and itis / one of affinity. The undergrowth consists of several species of rubus, ribes, lupinus, rhus, vaccinium, arbutus, and lonicera; and such is the variety of some of these, | that a new species may be met with almost every hun- dred miles. Vitis, scarcely expected, grows abundantly / on the margins of some of the rivers. Shrubby com- posite prevail throughout, but are in the greatest inten- sity towards the centre of the region; and in the more arid parts cacte and euphorbiacee are particularly nu- merous, with a few leguminose. Cacteze are not seen further north than 34°; here also is the limit of ricinus communis, of course introduced, as is phoenix dacty- lifera, a few large trees of which may be seen about San Diego, but only yielding a sour fruit. As characteristic peculiarities of the region may be mentioned, its great aridity, general scarcity of trees, superior prevalence of cactex, composite, and euphor- biaceze, great number of plants with lactescent juices, and with fragrant foliage, the frequent developement of the flowers and leaves at different periods, and the general small range of its species. The negative features consist \ nee a iasmsienincntetsegronenenscommmeneeremeeererreinereereeree eae ETT _ aa Aen nasaaanaeeaeonamenee enero 28 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. in the scarcity of ferns, mosses, and fungi, none of which exist in the southern part, except perhaps the latter during the rains. Lichens, with sickly aspects, occa- sionally cling to the trees or rocks. Reations.—California, though less known, has an equally fine climate with the south of Europe, Chili, the Cape of Good Hope, or New South Wales; and with these parts of the world has a general resemblance in its vegetation. In establishing a comparison between the western and eastern parts of the American continent, a superiority must be assigned in the forest trees to the east, and in the herbaceous vegetation to the west. VI. THE PRAIRIE REGION. Exrent.—This is a peculiar tract enclosed by the vast forests of North America. It extends from within a hundred miles of the west bank of the Mississippi to the Rocky Mountains, stretching to 54° N. latitude, and again only bounded on the south by the wooded country of the Texas and the Mexican Sea. The outline is tolerably regular, except that two processes cross the above river; one penetrating the states of Illinois, Indiana, and Ohio ; and the other farther south, stretching into Alabama. Pursica Cuaracters.—The prairie is far from being a continuous extensive plain, and in this respect must yield to the Pampas. It consists rather of an assemblage of plains, often with slightly undulatirg surfaces, and frequently covered with a fruitful soil; their level being occasionally broken by projecting masses of rocks or ranges of low hills. The subjacent structure is com- posed of red or grey saliferous sandstone, chiefly the _ THE PRAIRIE REGION. : 29 former, with beds of clay. Chloride of sodium abounds with other salts, and are found largely in the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains, and in the northern part of the region. Gypsum likewise occurs, and gravel, sand, or boulders occasionally prevail. Cuimatse.—The long droughts to which the prairie is liablé have been supposed to preclude the existence of shrubs or trees, and to be favourable to the more fuga- cious grasses. Heavy rains sometimes fall, and during their continuance rivers spring up, and gliding over the country, nourish a lively vegetation. In the dry season these soon shrink to small streams, disconnected chains of ponds or marshes, or entirely disappear. Fiora.—tThis extensive portion of country supports a by no means insignificant flora. Graminee is the most important group, and is represented by numerous festuca, _bromus, stipa, aristida, poa, agrostis, crypsis, keeleria, hordeum, eriocoma, and others. Grasses flourish more particularly in the northern part, yielding gradually towards the south to various herbaceous composite, some eucurbitacex, vites, scrophularinee, solanee, boraginee, and euphorbiacee. The peculiarities of the region are derived chiefly from the absence of trees, the great preponderance of graminee and of composite through the genera rudbeckia, helianthus, silphium, coreopsis, and other allied groups, and in the searcity of bulbous plants in a situation, where, from a comparison with the Cape of Good Hope and other places, they might be supposed to exist. Cacteze appear farther north in the prairie than in the California region, and are often ac- companied in both by a yucca. However interesting the Rocky Mountains may prove to the geologist, they have no flora sufficient to give them any individuality as a region. They are as destitute of 30 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. arboreseent vegetation as the prairie, and the interesting herbaceous plants found among them are only a portion of this flora. If their latitude generally is considered, they will be found incapable of possessing any important alpine vegetation, and even around their bases the snow will lie long and perseveringly on the ground. Rexations.—Towards the south this region becomes gradually blended with the California and Chihuahua regions: an analogy with the pampas is established through the numerous graminee ; and with the northern regions by numerous cruciferee and umbellifere, but those of the prairie are nearly all peculiar. The more interest- ‘ing relation exists with the Steppes of Tartary, with which it has many points incommon. The chief relation is that of affinity, the same genera being represented in both by different species; among these are artemisia, astragalus, thermopsis, sophora, glycyrrhiza, fritillaria, and diotis; and rheum is replaced by the analogous genus eriogonum. VIL—THE CHIHUAHUA REGION. Exrent.—This name is pronounced Chi-wah-wah, and though the designation may appear somewhat novel, on the spot it is in extensive use ; but almost equally little is known of the inhabitants, productions, and flora. On account of the barrenness of information respecting the latter, we can hardly more than indicate this region. Though an important portion of Mexico, it differs from it in many respects, and it is necessary to draw a strong line of demarcation, since the very name of Mexico is apt to convey to the mind of the botanist an association of characters certainly not pertaining to this part of the THE CENTRAL AMERICA REGION. SY republic. — On the north it has the Prairie Region, sweep- ing round it even to the shores of the Gulf of Mexico, and meeting the Central America Region, thus completely separating it from the Atlantic. To the south, it ceases about the limit of the tropic, and on the west it has the Gulf of California, and the Rio Colorado. PuysicaL Cuaracrers.—Bold and mountainous. Curmate.—Cold for the latitude, and apparently liable to vicissitudes. : Frora.—A thin forest occasionally covers part of the surface ; at other times the vegetation is lowly, and there are broad spots entirely without any. The general cha- racter is rugged and austere, the land rising rapidly to a moderate elevation. Hence the climate is cool for the latitude, and the productions those of ten or fifteen de- grees farther north. Steep precipices, and narrow passes abound, with the customary attendants of stern mountain scenery. Between the various ranges are fertile plains well adapted to agriculture, and the valleys are often very productive. Nitre and common salt are sometimes mixed copiously with the soil, depriving it of fertility. Composite are numerous ; some are shrubby, but the tribe coreopsidee more particularly prevails. Cactez are com- mon; afew amaryllidew, some showy and interesting spieces of labiate, and perhaps also of scrophularinee and boraginez. Rexations.— Unknown. VIII.—THE CENTRAL AMERICA REGION. Exrent.—The southern portion of the republic of Mexico, the whole of the Federal States of Central America, and a portion of New Granada; it thus extends 6 32 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. from the north tropic to the Gulf of St. Michael in the Bay of Panama, but sends a tongue to meet the Prairie Region, on the Mexican Sea. In elevation it attains — 4.500 feet, or the commencement of the cultivation of wheat; and the lowland cultivation ceases about this, which is inconsiderable for the latitude. Humboldt’s warm region ceases at 600 metres, or 1,968 feet, but this is no limit to either the introduced or natural productions. Puysicat Caaracters. — That part comprising the Mexican States, and the Upper States of Central America, rises rapidly from the shores of both seas to the elevated and peculiar table-lands of this part of America. Near both shores the soil is productive, if not abundant, but on leaving them the surface is usually rugged, and broken by huge masses of granite, porphyry, serpentine, or bazalt. This part of the region is composed almost en- tirely of these primary rocks, very few of secondary for- mation being known to exist. More to the south, and near the Isthmus of Panama, the country is far more even, the continuity of the Andes being completely broken, and in the vicinity of the lakes of Leon and Nicaragua is so even that no perceptible inequality can be noticed on traversing it, and the greatest difference is no- where more than a few yards. Here the soil is rich and abundant, very productive, and capable of yielding many successive crops. Cuimate.—The seasons are tropical, the rains com- mencing from April to June, according to the latitude, and lasting five months. During the rest of the year a hot sun and clear sky prevail. Frora.—tThis region belongs to that variety of tropical vegetation where leguminose, &c., prevail, and hence we infer a certain aridity of soil and atmosphere. In this respect it yields greatly to the Oronoco Region, and CENTRAL AMERICA REGION: 30 though Schouw combines them in his anomalous region of Cactez and Piperacee, I venture to separate them, after some practical acquaintance with both. Everywhere a forest exists, but it is usually a thin open forest: the trees are not distinguished either for stature or bulk, and there is a scarcity of undergrowth. In this latter respect there . is a very remarkable difference between it and the North- | West America Region. Nor is the variety of the forest trees great; hematoxylon campechianum is common; . swietenia mahagoni and cedrela odorata are gregarious . in the neighbourhood of the lakes, and very numerous as individuals. Mimosee are particularly abundant on the summits and sides of the hills, where there is any expo- sure, and the larger kinds convey a particularly airy and picturesque effect. Bauhinia, hymenea, and schrankia, have several species. Ficus is also numerous, and from the manner of growth is highly distinctive ; one species has a strange partiality for encasing the trunk of the chamzrops palmetto, of which instances are numerous. Tropical endogene are not frequent, a few scitaminee, musacee, and commelinee appearing only in the wet Itacolumi, | or the Child of Stone, a mountain near Villa Rica, attain-. 4 5,710, Von Martius saw the curious arborescent. ilies of barbacennia bicolor, b. tricolor, b. tomentosa, ae b. luzuleefolia, b. ensifolia, vellosia abietina, and v.. taxifolia. Other characterizing genera are galium, mo-_ rinda, declieuxia, oxypetalum, ditassa, lisianthus, exagum, phyllanthus, lavradia, gloxinia, gesneria, vitis, and terns- | troemia. Growing on the ironstone floetz formation, and | supposed to be distinetive of it, were, laurus erythropus, | ae ire : 2 es: bauhinia ferruginosa, abatia tomentosa, brysonima niti- | qe ° ° e ° . oe ; dissima, banisteria versicolor, vanillosma firmum, lisi- | anthus pulcherrimus, phyllanthus robustus, and mikania glauca. The swampy ground is distinguished by species Pan 48 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. of hydrocotyle, drosera, andromeda, gaultheria, utricu- laria, sauvagesia, and eriocaulon. Reations.—Among the alpine plants, if so they can be called, are many intimately connected with the ve- getation of the temperate regions of Europe and North America, as panax, clethra, vitis, galium, and gaultheria. Ambrosia artemesizfolia, a strand plant of the Iroquois Region, occurs on the shores of Paraiba, Walsh saw patches of the European fern, aspidium filix mas, and also bushes of Rubus occidentalis. The same traveller mentions avena sterilis attaining a height of ten feet. For some time the existence of canna indica was sup- posed to confer an interesting point of identity with India, but it is now known to be a frequent plant within the tropics. XIV.—_THE PARAGUAY REGION. Exrent.—It embraces the space of country traversed by the Paraguay River and its tributary streams; its outline will thus extend from the coast between the Brazilian provinces of San Paulo and Minas Garaes, and, arching to the north, terminate on the limits of the Pampas Region, and again on the south along the course of the Rio Plata, and the hitherto unascertained margin of the same region. PuysicaL Cuaracters.—A portion of this tiny is not so completely a plain as would appear from the maps, as towards the Andes several spurs are sent off which spread into the interior. San Paulo is sufficiently elevated to affect considerably its productions, and the difference between it and Minas Geraes has struck several travellers. (tenerally the soil is rich and fertile, THE PARAGUAY REGION. 49 but there are large spaces covered with scarcely any- thing but sand, and yielding a poor bushy vegetation. Curmate.—That of San Paulo corresponds to the whole region; the mean temperature of the year is 73°, and the range is small. Hoar frost is sometimes seen, but snow is unknown. The rains occur at two periods, the autumnal being the heaviest. Fiora.—The tropical features, which the Amazon Region possesses in such intensity, have greatly dimi- nished; palme are few; ferns continue very numerous, but with a habit more suited to a drier climate. Bac- charis and other composite cover the sandy districts, and cactee are frequent. Umbelliferze, though far from numerous, have a greater preponderance than in neigh- bouring regions. The forest is open, and composed of fine trees; arborescent ferns still continue, and where they assemble in groves exclude all other vegetation, a peculiarity possessed by them when growing gregariously. In a collection of plants made in the warmer portion of the region, composite were a 12th, leguminose a 15th, cinchonacee and orchidee a 20th, melastomacez a 29th, labiate and solanee a 40th. Tristan da Cunha, situated in 37° §, lat.,is known to possess 113 indigenous plants, among which are several umbellifere, which induces us to regard the island as a fragment of this region. Retations.—These are perhaps feeble with distant regions, whilst they are not strong with those in the vicinity. Araucaria brasiliensis is frequent in the forest, a representative of an Australian genus, though having a nearly allied species in Chili. 38k ED THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. XV.—THE CHILI AND PERU REGION. Exrent.—A_ peculiar and well-defined region, but still far from productive. It includes a narrow strip between the Cordilleras and the Pacific Ocean from Cape Blanco in 4 S. lat. to the oblique” line stretching from 36° S. lat. on the coast of Chili to Port St. Antonio on the opposite side. Both limits are well marked; at the northern the forest of the adjacent region commences suddenly, and at the southern, around Conception, rapidly appear those numerous genera, which establish so strong a relation between the Patagonia Region and the tem- perate latitudes of the northern hemisphere. Some doubts may arise whether the Andes of its southern part should not be included, and I am disposed to think they ought, but at present it is impossible ;to trace the exact relations. The two islands of Juan Fernandez also belong here. Puystcat Cuaracters.—The flank of the Cordilleras regarding the Pacific is composed chiefly of porphyritic rocks, but the somewhat inclined plane which slopes towards the ocean is formed by deposits of clay, both tertiary and recent, very frequently inclosing shells, and resting on a substratum of brown sandstone. The surface may be divided into the valleys and the intervening ridges ; the former containing some soil, and a supply of water near which is assembled the entire vegetation, whilst the spaces between are usually quite bare, or only support some straggling brushwood. The soil in the exposed places contains a large proportion of salt, both of nitrate of potash and chloride of sodium, which lies in a thin stratum one or two inches beneath the surface, and can be easily removed in solid thin cakes. This admixture renders the soil very puffy, and after being moistened by the heavy dews it forms a thin brittle crust. | ie THE CHILI AND PERU REGION. 51 | : | | It also deprives it of the customary cohesion, and | wherever the soil has collected, as on the sides of the \ hills and valleys, the foot readily sinks six or eight lk inches. 3 a Cummate.—Though much is within the tropics, it has \|\ few corresponding features. The temperature of the i intertropical part is warm during the dry season, but is unusually cold and chilly at the opposite period; it has thus a great range. Rain is a novelty almost through- out, and instead there are dense falling mists, called we garuas, from May to August, which render the weather particularly unpleasant. In the northern part these cease with great suddenness, for in the Bay of Guayaquil the rains are very heavy, and at Tumbez, within half a degree, a shower is not seen for years together. To the south the two are gradually shaded off into each other, | and at Valparaiso the rainy season is short and _ less ie regular, whilst at times there is something like the garuas. The absence of regular rain has been attributed to the south wind, which blows with much constancy ; and it has been observed that during the season of mists a light breeze from the opposite quarter is not unfre- quent. At Valparaiso the temperature is more in accord- | ance with its geographical position ; it is situated in 33° | S. lat., and during June and July, the two most unfavour- _ Hie able months, the range was from 46° to 64°, the dews ex- tremely heavy, but rain fell latterly. Frora.—Nothing that can be called forest exists, a few trees only being scattered sparingly about, and though much is within the tropic, corresponding characters are not strong. Cocos chilensis has a few individuals scat- We tered about the valleys in the neighbourhood of Val- | BH 2 2 | | 52 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. paraiso, and the potato may be seen here growing wild on some of the hills; a species of bambusa is not un- common, and a salix is frequent in the valleys. The chief tree is cordia decandra, but many spots are not deficient in cultivated fruit trees. The plants recalling tropical features aie azara serrata, krameria cistoidea, coriaria ruscifolia, cassia sp., mimosa cavenia, loasa aceri- folia, amirola glandulosa, and croton lanceolatus. Cereus, opuntia, euphorbia, lobelia, calceolaria, and oxalis, are common. About Valparaiso are low thickets of shrubby composite ; and amaryllidee and iridee are numerous. On waste ground near Lima tropzolum majus abounds, with sida, datura, cestrum, alternanthera, cenothera, asclepias, and calceolaria. In a few favoured valleys the ground is quite yellow with the multitudes of flowers of pancratium amencaes, whose expanding flowers are the signal for the commencement of the revels bearing its name. Retations.—The most interesting will be with the California Region, with which there is much similarity in climate, and some in productions through ageratum, mimulus, castilleja, rhus, ribes, berberis, and laurus. The prevalence of bulbous plants in Chili confers some resemblance with the South Africa Region. XVI.—THE PAMPAS REGION. Exrent.—That portion of South America between the Andesand the mouthof the Rio Plata is composed en- tirely of this peculiar district. ‘To the north it extends to the neighbourhood of the towns of the interior, and ap- proaches the river Paraguay; its exact outline is here imperfectly known. To the south it terminates in an THE PAMPAS REGION. 53 oblique line, extending from the Port of San Antonio to 36° §. latitude on the west coast. Puysicat Cuaracters,—A vast plain stretches on all sides, very slightly raised above the level of the sea, and only diversified in a few places by low hills. Some un- _ Important rivers have their origin, and are often again lost in the soil. Reddish marl is mentioned as occurring, but is not perhaps general. To the south the soil is impregnated with saline matter. Curmate.—The seasons are temperate, and their alter- nations produce a rapid change in the vegetation. Fiora.—The remarks of Sir Francis Head on the features are appropriate. “The great plain of Pampas of the Cordillera is about 900 miles broad, and the part which I have visited, though in the same latitude, is divided into regions of different climate and produce. On leaving Buenos Ayres, the first of these regions is covered, for 180 miles with clover and thistles ; the second, which extends for 430 miles, produces long grass; and the third region, which reaches the base of the Cordillera, is a grove of low trees and shrubs. The second and third of these regions have nearly the same appearance throughout the year; for the trees and shrubs are evergreens; and the immense plain of grass only changes its colour from green to brown; but the first region varies with the four sea- sons of the year, in a most extraordinary manner. In winter, the leaves of the thistles are large and luxuriant, and the whole appearance of the country has the rough appearance of a turnip field. The clover, at this season, is extremely rich and strong; and the sight of the wild cattle, grazing at full liberty in such pasture, is beautiful. In spring, the clover has vanished, the foliage of the thistle has extended across the ground, and the country still looks as if covered with a rough crop of turnips. In 54 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. less than a month the change is most extraordinary; the whole region becomes luxuriant with enormous thistles, which have suddenly shot up to a height of ten or eleven feet, and are in full bloom. * * * The summer is not over before the scene undergoes another change; the thistles suddenly lose their sap and verdure; their heads droop, the leaves shrink and fade, the stems become black and dead, and they remain rattling with the breeze one against another, until the violence of the pampero or hurricane levels them with the ground, where they rapidly decompose and disappear; the clover rushes up, and the scene is again verdant.” Ranunculacee, caryo- phyllez, and crucifere, make their appearance, and the low bushes are most probably chiefly composite. Species of lathyrus, polygala, anemone, oxalis, lobelia, galium, plantago, and teucrium, are also frequent. Retations.—There is a strong connexion with some of the European Regions through numerous genera, and > some slight alliance with the South Africa Region. It is curious that an exotic thistle, cynara cardunculus, should have taken such entire possession of a large district, as to have obliterated nearly the whole of the spontaneous vegetation. Its luxuriance is so great, that the question arises, whether plants can ever find a situation more favourable to their existence than that in which nature has placed them? The excessive developement also of psidium pomiferem, at Tahiti, would seem to require an affirmative. In general character there is some similarity with the Prairie Region, but the minuter features are different, and the latter is less fertile. THE PATAGONIA REGION. 5D XVIL—THE PATAGONIA REGION. Exrent.—In the vicinity of Conception, a change takes place in the character of the vegetation, and in the climate ; trees commence, and heavy rains are exchanged for the peculiar climate of Chili and Peru. An imagi- nary line, commencing on the west coast, in 36° §. lati- tude, and extending obliquely to Port San Antonio, on the opposite side, separates the southern extremity of the continent, and with the adjacent islands constitutes the region. ? Puystcan Cxaracrers.—The Andes have now lost their stupendous size, and are continued as an inferior mountain range, of an average elevation of 3,000 feet, rarely or never attaining 6,000 feet, and their appearance is wild, bleak, and desolate. Primitive rocks abound, and granite greatly prevails; towards the Straits of Ma- gellan are various hornblendes and slates, and the latter appear favourable to vegetation, for fagus antarctica attains on it a great size, whilst a reddish sandstone is barren. Curmate.—Moist and unfriendly for the latitude; the number of rainy days is very great, and a thoroughly fine one is rather a novelty. Though the temperature is not in extremes, still the summer months are chilly. For the month of May, in the vicinity of Cape Horn, the mean temperature was 40°, the range from 30 to 48°, and very equable through the day and night ; the fall of rain eight inches; dew-point 29 or 3° below the atmo- sphere, the greatest being 7° or 8°; hail frequent, with the temperature from 42’ to 48’, About Conception the climate is more agreeable, the temperature warmer, and the rain falls at regular seasons. 56 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. Frora.—Irregular groups of wood cover the surface, wherever the climate is moderate, and there is a mitiga- tion of its general austerity. The chief trees are as- sembled about Conception, and somewhat to the south is the principal station of auraucaria imbricata. Among these are fagus obliqua, laurus lingui, laurelia aromatica, drymis chilensis, quadria heterophylla. At Tierra del Fuego and Staten Land, fagus antarctica, an evergreen species, is frequent, and, assisted by others of a similar habit, gives a peculiar character to the scenery. Forster, the companion of Cook, has described with some quaint- ness the general features. “In the cavities and cre- vices of the huge piles of rocks, forming Tierra del Fuego and Staten Land, so very like each other, where a little moisture is preserved by its situation, and where, from the continued friction of the loose pieces of rocks, washed and hurried down the steep sides of the rocky masses, a few minute particles form a kind of sand; there, in the stagnant water, gradually spring up a few algaceous plants from seeds carried thither on the feet, plumage, and bills of birds; these plants form at the end of each season a few atoms of mould which yearly increases; the birds, the sea, or the wind carries from a neighbouring isle, the seeds of some of the mossy plants to this little mould, and they vegetate in it during the proper sea- sons. Though these plants are not absolute mosses, they are, however, nearly related to them in their habit. We reckon among them the ixia pumila, a new plant which we call donatia, a small melanthium, a minute oxalis and ealendula, another little dioicous plant, called by us phyl- lachne, together with the mniarum. These plants, or the greater part of them, have a peculiar growth, parti- cularly adapted to these regions, and fit for forming soil and mould on barren rocks. In proportion as they grow THE PATAGONIA REGION. 57 up, they spread into various stems and branches, which lie as closely together as possible; they spread new seeds, and at last a large spot is covered ; the lowermost fibres, roots, stalks, and leaves, gradually decay and push forth on the top new verdant leaves; the decaying lower parts form a kind of peat or turf, which gradually changes into mould and soil. The close texture of these _ plants hinders the moisture below from evaporating, and thus furnishes nutriment to the vegetation above, and clothes at last whole hills and isles with a constant ver- dure. Among the pumilous plants some of a greater stature begin to thrive, without in the least prejudicing the growth of these creators of mould and soil. Among these plants we reckon a small arbutus, a diminutive myrtle, a little dandelion, a small creeping crassula, the common pinguicula alpina, a yellow variety of viola palustris, statice armeria or sea-pink, a kind of burnet, the ranuuculus lapponicus, the holeus odoratus, the com- mon celery, (apium australe,) with the arabis hetero- phylla. Soon after we observed, in places which are still covered with the above-mentioned, a new rush, (juncus triglumis,) a fine amellus, a most beautiful scarlet che- lone, (C. ruelloides,) and lastly even shrubby plants, viz. a scarlet-flowered shrubby plant of a new genus, which we called embothrium coccineum, two new kinds of ber- berry, (berberis ilicifolia, b. mitior,) an arbutus with cuspidate leaves, (A. mucronata,) and lastly the tree bearing the winter’s bark, (drymis winteri,) which, how- ever, in these rocky barren parts of Tierra del Fuego never exceeds the size of a tolerable shrub; whereas in Success Bay, on a gentle sloping ground, in a rich and deep soil, it grows to the size of the largest timber.” Many of Forster’s new names have now becounie as fa- 58 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. miliar as household words to the botanist. Mosses and lichens abound here, but ferns are scarce. The flora of the Falkland Islands is scanty, being composed chiefly of a few composite, gramine, lichens, and musci. Bolax glebaria is found here, and veronica decussata as a shrub six feet high, but not fit for fire- wood, the deficiency of which is met by peat, which, Weddel says, is abundant. The South Shetlands have only some straggling grass , and a lichen. Retations.—The relations are stronger with the tem- perate regions of the northern hemisphere than with \.those in its vicinity. With the former it has a number of genera in common, as, omitting those already men- tioned, betula, ribes, rubus, andromeda, vaccinium, auri- cula, cardamine, draba, lepidium, stellaria, hydrocotyle, anemone, drosera, galium, tussilago, salix, carex, cy- perus, and usnea. With adjoining regions, fuchsia, myrtus, drymis, baccharis, escallonia, calceolaria, and chelone. With the South Africa Region, notwithstand- ing a considerable difference in the climate, gladiolus, ixia, wistenia, galaxia, and crassula. And with New | Holland, araucaria, embothrium, ourisia, and mniarum. Its own peculiarities are due to the novelty of nearly the whole of the species, and to the genera gaimardia, astelia, eallixene, philesia, drapetes, bea, pernettia, oligosporus, nassavia, bolax, azorella, donatia, acena, hamadryas, and the curious misodendrum. A relation of identity with European regions is established through pinguicula al- pina, viola palustris, statice armeria, dactylis glomerata, \_and several mosses and lichens. THE POLYNESIA REGION. | 59 XVIII.—THE POLYNESIA REGION. Exrent.—The various groups of islands composing this region have no great superficies, but possess many features of pecularity and interest. The region by no means includes all the group of the Pacific Ocean, but only those which are more particularly designated as Polynesia. It comprises the Sandwich Islands, the Society Islands, the Marquesas Islands, the Gambier Islands, the Harvey Islands, the low coral islands of the Dangerous or Pomoutou group, and the Radack and Ralick chains, with a few solitary detached, but unim- portant islands. PuysicaL Cuaracrers.—There are perhaps few spots where such an assemblage of agreeable external cireum- stances is met with, and where the visitor is assailed by so many favourable impressions. The climate is warm without being oppressive, the scenery partakes of all that variety nature can so well assume, where mountain, valley, and plain exist, and have each their charms; and where the vegetation is varied and agreeable, with- out being in excess. The islands may be regarded as so many mountains of basalt and lava, split by numerous valleys, and with their bases often dilated into plains, stretching with various inclinations to the cliffs or coral reefs of the shores. The valleys are usually very steep, and contain the chief and richest soil, for the mountains often display precipices with the smoothness and regu- larity of artificial walls. Elsewhere are numerous pro- jecting masses of rocks, rendering certain parts entirely unfit for cultivation. Among the denser vegetation the soil is black from the mixture of organic matter, but on the plains it is frequently of a deep-red colour, and may be used as a coarse paint. This owes much of its exist- 60 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. ence to the decomposition of the lava rock, and is very productive when supplied with abundance of water. The coral islands must be excepted from the above, as they have a low flat circular surface, with small patches of vegetable mould. Curmate.—Within the influence of the trade-winds, and ever fanned by their breezes, the temperature of the region is not high for the latitude. It is something greater at the Society Islands to the south of the equator, than at the Sandwich Islands to the north. At Ho- nolulu, Sandwich Islands, Mr. Rooke’s Observations for 1838, give the mean temperature as 77°93, fall of rain 21-1 inches, fine days 285, rainy 37, variable 43. Similar observations at the Society Islands are wanting. The quantity of rain in different places varies greatly ; and in the interior, near the highest land, the amount will be three or four times more than the above; and places to windward will have less than others to leeward. From some observations, I am disposed to fix 193 feet of ascent as equal to one degree of the thermometer. The seasons at the two sides of the equator will be at different periods, and rains occur a little after the summer solstice. At the Marquesas I found some relative temperatures to be, under the shade of vegetation 86° 5, the soil 80°, the sun’s rays partially obscured, 103°. Frora.—The vegetation is not rich but interesting ; indeed it may be called a poor flora. Forest cannot be said to exist ; and the trees crowd up the valleys and less perpendicular ascents, with more the character of groves. Irregular patches of these diversify the aspect of the country, the intervals being filled with smaller vegeta- tion. Dracena terminalis spreads over the valleys; and the troublesome grass, centrotheca lappacea, covers every dry spot on the ridges and sides of the hills, and even of THE POLYNESIA REGION. 61 the plains. The trees are not large but numerous, and want the great height attained in the genuine forest. The vegetation is otherwise peculiar, from its small and inconspicuous flowers, being deficient in size and richness of colour, the absence of fragrant properties to a great extent, and the leaves being mostly small, undivided, and of a dull shade of colour. I have thought that there were proofs here of plants degenerating towards the margins of the extent of their indigenous existence. Artocarpus incisa, broussonetia papyrifera, and aleurites triloba, grow nearly everywhere spontaneously. At the Society Islands they thrive vigo- rously, as large trees; but on advancing eastward they gradually diminish in size and vigour till, in the Gambier group, they are hardly of any use to the natives; and in Easter Island, where the two latter are found, they are low and useless bushes. The same circumstance may be noticed with the shells, cardium cardissa, terebra macu- lata, conus betulinus, purpura persica, and perhaps others. The Sandwich Islands have a superficies of 6,600 square miles. The prevailing families are, filices, very nume- rous; a large proportion of composite, cinchonacee, leguminose, malvacee, cyrtandracee, labiate, urticee, euphorbiacee, piperacez, and graminee. The vegetation is more closely distinguished by several] araliacez, goode- novie, lobeliacee, amarantacee, and pandanee; whilst the presence of crucifere, saxifrageze, and umbellifere, invests it with further peculiarities. Till recently no palm beyond the cocoa-nut was supposed to exist, but a species of chamerops has been discovered. Orchidacee have no existence. The peculiar genera are few, kadua, charpen- tiera, dubautia, and a few others. In Hawaii, Mouna Roa reaches 15,980 feet, and Mouna Koa 13,500 feet, and 62 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. have a vegetation with alpine features. . Vaccinium, rubus, and fragaria are found here; and when the flora shall be better known, a small alpine region will most probably become necessary. The Society Islands. These islands have a much smaller superficies, and a flora of only 500 species. They contain nearly the whole of the different species of the region south of the equator; and there are very few not found at Tahiti, the largest of the group. The prevailing families of the Sandwich Islands exist equally here, the chief peculiarities depending on the presence of several crucifere, on the comparative abundance of cinchonacee, euphoribacee, and urticee, the scarcity of leguminose, and through celtis discolor in possessing ulmacee. The Marquesas yield nothing in natural beauty to the other islands, and have a flora hitherto very sparingly examined, but apparently identical with that of the Society Islands, though even less abundant. The self- introduced plants which fringe the shores are different from those of the same class at the Sandwich Islands, and evidently come from that part of the coast of America nearest at hand. Some species monopolize a large sur- face. Hibiscus tiliaceus runs far into the valleys, to the exclusion of everything else; desmodium purpureum occupies the waste ground near the sea; and centrotheca lappacea spreads higher upon the hills. The bread-fruit and cocoa-nut compose large groves. The Harvey Islands have a vegetation identical with the Society Islands. Raratonga has the reputation of being the most picturesque island of the Pacific. It is very productive; and the paramount object of the resi- dents at present is to exclude the guava-bush, which at Tahiti hasspread so widely, obliterated the grass, and much other of the vegetation. THE POLYNESIA REGION. 63 iil) & The Gambier Islands are volcanic islands set in coral | reefs. The flora is the same as at the Society Islands. | Metrosideros obovata has hitherto only been met with | here. The Pomoutou Islands, These irregular coral islands are upwards of fifty in number. Their surface is com- posed of ragged fragments of dead coral, with a little vegetable mould in places; and sometimes water is found a few inches beneath the surface. The flora is extremely ‘ limited, and, it must be inferred, in no respect original ; yet there are one or two plants at present not known to exist elsewhere. A collection of plants made by myself, with a few additions from other sources, gives a total amount of 47 species, which are referable to 40 genera, and 27 families. Lepidium piscidium disregards the heat, and appears wherever there is a little soil, and the parasitic cassythis filiformis mats together the bushes. The Radack and Ralick Chains, though closely resem- bling the latter, are more productive, and cultivation is practised. Chamisso mentions 52 species, many of which are indigenous at the Sandwich Islands and Guahon. He also observes that the southern islands have a richer soil and older vegetation. | Retations.—The existence of this region, as a whole, 3 | il : is very clearly defined; the connexions with the nearest | regions not being very intimate. Its relations are spread | : far and wide. In the Sandwich Islands there are affi-| WEE nities with New Holland through metrosideros, myopo- | it rum, exocarpus, cyathodes, and an aphyllous acacia; with | Europe are several jungermannia, and musci in common; | besides, with North America and Asia, several identical «... species. In the Society Islands the affinities are strong- | est with New Holland through metrosideros, myoporum, © Hi casuarina, and dodonea; but they have no representative | costs 64 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. of epacridez, as at the Sandwich Islands.. From these latter they are further distinguished by the presence of ficus and several orchidacee. With South America and Asia there are some relations, but they are not striking. Rhizophora has no existence. XIX. THE PAPUA OR NEW GUINEA REGION, Exrenr,—Several large and important islands, of which New Guinea is by far the most extensive, lying between the equator and 23° south latitude. Commenc- ing at the western extremity, the region includes the Moluccas, Papua or New Guinea, the former designa- tion being the most in use in the surrounding seas, the Admiralty Islands, New Britain, and New Ireland, the Solomon Islands, New Hebrides, New Caledonia, the Feejee Islands, Tonga archipelago, and Navigator's Is- lands, PuysicaL Cuaracters.—The scenery is bold and rugged, particularly about the Solomon group, and many of the islands are nothing but mountains. The forest, which abounds everywhere, rests on rocky declivities, with very little soil. In Papua and the Feejee Islands, there are extensive level surfaces of rich soil, apparently the deposit of rivers. There are several active volca- nos, and much of the structure is in every probability voleanic. Conglomerate, limestone, and stratified sand- stone occur in Papua. The islands of the Tonga group are curious flat tables of limestone, forty feet and up- wards above the level of the sea, and with deep water close to their wall-like cliffs. The elevation of the mountains of Papua is undoubtedly not so great as has been supposed, and along the whole extent of its northern lad PAPUA OR NEW GUINEA REGION. vd shore none are visible which at all approach the limit of perpetual snows. Crimate.—Heat and moisture prevail, and render the climate a warm, and from the productions, it is likely, a peculiar one. An anomaly existsin the distribu- tion of the seasons. It is customary for the south-east monsoon to bring the dry season to the space over which it blows from May to October inclusive. The north- west monsoon prevails for the remaining months of the year and accompanies the rains. The reverse happens over the extent of this region, for though the monsoons are not so powerfully felt at its eastern extremity, the cli- mate is everywhere the same. In the south-east mon- soon the rains are heavy and frequent, and the deposition | must be very considerable. Frora.—Approaching this region from the eastward, the character of the flora as distinct from the Polynesian is very evident; palme become more numerous through chamerops, caryota, and areca; pandanus has many spe- cies; leguminose, though more abundant than in the Polynesia Region, and composite are not frequent, a proof of the usually moist state of the atmosphere ; cycas first appears at New Ireland, and rhizophora in the rivers of the Feejees. However, it is a flora, with the exception of the Moluccas, almost unknown. Papua or New Guinea.—Forest covers everywhere this large and fine, but unhealthy, island, and presents a variety which perhaps makes it the most prolific of vegetable forms in the world. The vegetation is ex- tremely varied, and the species appear to have a limited range. Here, as elsewhere, it is chiefly on the margins of the forest, that flowers and herbaceous plants are seen. The colours are generally little attractive, and white greatly prevails. This is partly compensated by F 66 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. the frequent fragrance of the flowers, and sometimes even of the foliage. Leguminose, solanee, and umbellifere, are uncommon. ‘Trees of achras and myristica are numerous in the forest, and there are several species of each. The nutmegs are without the aroma found in myristica moschata. This genus extends as far to the east as the Feejee Islands. Ferns of every variety of habit are most numerous, and orchidacee abound. The Moluccas have a less compact forest, as open spaces of bushes often occur, but a great variety in its trees. They are remarkable, as the native country of the clove and nutmeg of commerce, and of other aroma- tic productions. Retations. — When the southern shores of New Guinea are better known, there will most probably be discovered many sources of resemblance with New Hol- land. At present the most prominent are, casuarina, common throughout the region, melaleuca and eucalyp- tus in the Moluccas, and acacia laurifolia, an aphyllous species, in the eastern groups. A passiflora is common in the Feejee and Navigators’ Islands. Agathis appears in the Moluccas, as well as in New Zealand, and the resin is largely used, under the name of dammar, to give light. t=) XX —THE AUSTRALIA TROPIC REGION. Exrent.—The space between the northern shores of New Holland and the limit of the tropic in 23°28’ south latitude. The genuine characters of this region are lost, even within this limit, towards the west coast, where at Point Leveque in 123° east longitude, it meets the west Australian region. AUSTRALIA TROPIC REGION. 67 Puysican Caaracters.—Little is known respecting it, the coast only having received a partial examination. The shores are generally low and sandy, often barren, but sometimes clothed with a rich and luxuriant vegeta- tion. ; Curmate.—Tropical in temperature, but deficient in the usual amount of suspended moisture. Frora.—The thin forest of New Holland prevails, but partakes more of the usual tropical characters, and in some places is so dense and vigorous as to be almost impenetrable. In the vicinity of Van Diemen’s Gulf spe- cies of eucalyptus, corypha, pandanus, acacia, and croton, form a thick vegetation. The shores are closely beset by rhizophora, brugiera, and carallia, all genera of rhizo- phoree. Palme are not numerous, and are represented by corypha, ‘seaforthia, livingstonia, and calamus. Le- guminose, as might be expected in such a climate, are very abundant; also euphorbiacee through croton and phyllanthus ; and conifer are present in podocarpus, eallitris, and araucaria. A. excelsa is not here a large tree, but occasionally covers much space. Cinchonacee do not abound, and such as exist have Indian relations. Bignoniacee have a few species. Cryptogamic plants, epiphytic orchidacee, and others with similar habits, and depending less on their roots for food than on the at- mosphere, are all infrequent. Loranthus, embracing as it does genuine parisites, is frequent on all the coasts of New Holland. Those plants so entirely characteristic of this continent, and which are developed so profusely in the metropolis of their existence, are still spread among the vegetation, but in reduced numbers. Proteacee are nearly limited to grevillea, hakea, and persoonia; the Australian myr- tacee are few; diosmee has only eriostemon and phe- F 2 68 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. balium; eucalyptus has few species and individuals, and diminished vigour ; casuarina is gradually disappearing. Retations.—Mr. Allan Cunningham has had the best opportunities of examining the vegetation. In an ex- pedition directed to this part of the coast he collected 1500 species of phenogamous plants, of which 520 , had been previously described. In a comparison | between the east and north-west coasts in the parallel \ of 15°, and with an intervening space of 1,800 miles, he _ found only forty-eight species in common. He also gives a list of fifty-two Indian and South American plants, which are indigenous to Australia. (King’s voyages, Appendix.) Umbellifere have a few species, and there are some close relations with the flora of New Guinea and the Malay Islands. Among others, myristica is not uncommon on the northern and north-western coast. XXI.—THE NEW SOUTH WALES REGION. Exrent.—The British colony of New South Wales occupies a large portion of the east coast of New Holland. Our region is, however, more rigorously defined, and will comprise the east portion of the continent south of the tropic, and ceases to the west and south somewhere in the neighbourhood of the mouth of the Morumbridgee. Puysicat Cuaracrers. — The whole continent has been divided into two parts, the region of terraces, and * the region of plains, separated by the 148th meridian. Captain Sturt observes, that of the ridges which divide the latter, each presents a different rock formation, and also that he has noticed that the botanical and geological features are intimately connected. The Blue Mountains NEW SOUTH WALES REGION. 69 attain no considerable elevation, scarcely exceeding 3,000 feet, and form a wild and sterile barrier between two portions of the country. The soil varies, much is ex- tremely arid, and some is productive on slight cultivation. It is probably a variety which will soon wear out, and large tracts are required for grazing purposes. The kind of trees growing are regarded as a good indication of the quality of the soil; the native apple (Angophora lanceo- lata) selecting a good soil, and the spotted gum and stringy bark a bad. Rhagodia, salsola, and similar plants, are met with in places, and indicate a saline soil. After the wet season, ephemeral rivers traverse the country, and lose themselves either in sandy plains or chains of marshy ponds. At other seasons much of the surface is indifferently watered. Curmmatre.—There is a great disposition to excess both in temperature and in dryness. The range of the ther- mometer is sometimes very great and sudden, being in the summer months from 36° to 106°, the mean 70°; and in the winter months from 27° to 98°, the mean 66.9 At Sidney the number of rainy days is 107. There is evi- dently a strong adaptation of the vegetation to the climate and other physical agents. Frora.—It has been observed by many, that in the Australian vegetation there is a sombre dulness which en- tirely excludes any of those lively and agreeable impres- sions it elsewhere so frequently creates. The forest, where it abounds, is not close and compact, but so open as to offer no obstruction to the passenger, and intervals are frequently occupied by dry stunted bushes, or straggling | grass. Mr. P. Cunningham remarks that the trees are nearly all evergreens, with fewer branches, and compara- tively fewer leaves than European trees. Manyshed their bark, and whilst the new has the appearance of a dead 70 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. tree pealed, the old bark is hanging in loose shreds and flakes, giving the whole much the character of an assem- blage of dead trees. Dr. R. Brown attributes the mono- tonous aspect and want of lustre in the vegetation to the equal existence of the cutaneous glands, or stomata, on both surfaces of the leaf. Nor when vegetation has ceased does the decay of the decomposing parts impart the usual fertility, for Captain Sturt conceives that the decaying leaves and timber, instead of adding richness to the soil, actually preclude minor vegetation, and that plants seem to shun the spot where a tree has fallen and gone to decay. In a climate so arid, the seasons will assert a powerful influence over the vegetation, and as soon as the beneficial effects of the rains are felt, there is much gaiety and liveliness in the numerous curious and handsome flowers; but on their disappearance the vegeta- tion soon becomes parched and uninteresting. The wood of the trees possesses to an important extent the pro- perty of incombustibility, which is supposed to be due to the presence of aluminous earth. The botanist must take a closer inspection,and here finds a novelty and pleasure the more general observer is de- prived of. The various species of eucalyptus, nearly a hundred in number, compose the chief bulk of the forest ; it has been estimated at four-fifths. They are frequently trees of enormous dimensions, except within the tropics, where they are also fewer. Exocarpus cupressiformis is the commonest tree of New Holland, without the tropics. Casuarina has many species, which have the local name of oaks. Leguminose are very abundant, the decandrous papilionaceous kinds prevail, as pultenza, gompholobium, and dillwynia; and the aphyllous species of acacia are almost peculiar. Composite are liberally represented by the tribe corymbifere, but very sparingly by the two NEW SOUTH WALES REGION. Fi others. Orchidacez are very numerous as species, but not \ as individuals, always growing sparingly, and sometimes / are extremely rare; those which are epiphytic cease at/ P 34° S. latitude, and are more abundant in this region than the tropical. Palme extend to the same limit. Protea- cee, myrtacee, and epacridee, abound in great numbers in peculiar genera, and intermingled with diosmee, goodenovie, myoporinee, stylidex, restiacee, treman- drex, polygalew, and dilleniacee, impress very distinc- tive peculiarities. Cryptogamic plants are not so abun- dant as usual, owing to the dryness of the climate, the absence of large trees in many situations, and the deci- duous bark. A tree-fern, dicksonia antarctica, extends -through the region, even into Van Diemen’s Land. Retations.—It is not a little singular, that identical species of European plants appear here in greater numbers than in South Africa, or other intervening regions. Dr, Brown’s experience renders his observations valuable. “In comparing very generally the flora of the principal parallel, (between 33° and 35’ S. latitude) of Terra Aus- tralis, with that of South Africa, we find several natural families characteristic of the Australian vegetation, as proteacee, diosmee, restiacee, polygalee, and also butteneriacez, if hermannia and mahernia be considered as part of this order, existing, and in nearly equal abun- dance, at the Cape of Good Hope; others are replaced by analogous families, as epacridee by ericee ; and some tribes, which form a considerable part of the Australian peculiarities, as dilleniacee, the leafless acacia, and eucalyptus, are ‘entirely wanting in South Africa. On the other hand, several of the characteristic South African orders and extensive genera are nearly or entirely want- ing in New Holland; thus, iridee, mesembryanthe- mum, pelargonium, and oxalis, so abundant at the Cape of Good Hope, oceur very sparingly in New Holland, 72 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. where the South African genera aloe, stapelia, cliffor- tia, penea, and brunia, do not at all exist. Very few species are common to both countries, and of these, the only one which is at the same time peculiar to the southern hemisphere is osmunda barbara.””* XXII—THE WEST AUSTRALIA REGION. Extent.— The tropical features of New Holland are not fully developed on the north-west coast, which makes it necessary to extend the limits of this region in this direction. It will thus occupy the western portion of the continent from 123° E. long., and become mingled with the New South Wales Region on the south coast in the neighbourhood of the Morrumbidgee, the interior of the continent being unknown. Puysicat Cuaracters.—It is a feature in New Holland that the shores are invested by a broad belt of sandy soil, which gives them a very unprepossessing aspect to the stranger, and most of all to the settler. This is succeeded by grassy and thinly-wooded plains. Such is particularly the character of this region. At a little distance from the coast is a parallel, but irregular and broken, range of hills; and others detached are spread over the country. Basaltic rocks are not unfrequent, but that kind of sandstone known as ironstone, chiefly prevails, and forms the basis of the plains. Limestone is also not unusual. This surface generally is indif- ferently supplied with streams. Crimate.—Similar to that of New South Wales, but not so liable to extremes of temperature or to long droughts. At Perth the average temperature in Fe- * Flinder’s Voyages, Appendix, Vol. ii, p. 588. VAN DIEMEN’S LAND REGION. re bruary, at four p.m. was 84°, in August 63°, and at ten a M. respectively, 81° and 60°. The mean of these hours throughout the year are 72° 1 and 69° 5. January, February, and March, are the months of greatest heat and aridity. Fiora.—The plants of this coast are almost entirely distinct from those of the east coast, but with King George’s Sound they are strikingly identical. This pe- culiarity, however, is chiefly confined to species. The most charactertstic plants are species of casuarina, callitris, zamia, exocarpus, xanthorrhcea, and kingia australis, and nutysia floribunda. Eucalyptus has few species, and angophora isnot known. (Brown in Journal Geographical Society.) The northern limit of xan- thorrheea is at 28° 8. lat. The vegetable productions, then, of this region are sufficiently peculiar, for whilst it fully retains Australian features, its closer forms are its own, Reations.—South African ferns are more abundant than in any other portion of the continent, and this is conspicuous even in its proteacee. An European plant, arenaria marina, is met with. XXIIL—THE VAN DIEMEN’S LAND REGION, Extent.—The island so called, situated between 40° 42’ and 43° 43’ §. lat., and having an area of 17,192 square miles, Paysicat Cuaractrers.— Van Diemen’s Land has fewer of those extremesso frequent in the neighbouring continent. The surface is occupied by fertile plains, occasionally swelling into hill and dale, and sometimes raised into ranges of inconsidérable elevation. Ben Lomond, to the 74 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. north-west, attains 4,200 feet, and Mount Wellington, near Hobart Town in the south, about 3.700 feet. In the vicinity of the rivers are large plains with good soil, and covered only with an herbaceous vegetation. The whole island is available, and rarely unfit for cultivation. Cumate.—With our European notions of climate, this would be considered cold for the latitude. The seasons are more regular, and the distribution of heat and moisture more equable, than in New South Wales. The smaller range of temperature is attributable to its insular position, and the humidity to the prevalence of southerly winds. Fiora.—There is a freshness and variety about the vegetation denied to New Holland. Though possessing many of its distinctive groups, the species are to a great extent limited ; its epacridew, proteacee, and myoporinez have even peculiar genera. Eucalyptus, though with fewer species, attains here its greatest developement. Among its trees are podocarpus asplenifolius, dacrydium taxifolium, exocarpus cupressiformis, carpodontos lucida, atherosperma moschata, zieria arborescens, tasmannia australis, t. fragrans, with species of gaultheria, poma- derris, and fagus. Cryptogamic plants are numerous, and some are identical with the European. Dicksonia antare- tica, an arborescent fern, is met with. . Rexations.—The connexions of the vegetation are | widely extended. With the more temperate parts of Europe there are many genera in common, as stellaria, linum, viola, clematis, anemone, ranunculus, veronica, drosera, geranium, polygonum, cardamine, and nastur- \ tium. With the South Africa region more particularly, *\by pelargonium, elichrysum, and oxalis; with North America, by gaultheria and aster ; and with the Malaisia region, by podocarpus. NEW ZEALAND REGION. a3] XXIV.—THE NEW ZEALAND REGION. Exrrent.—Two islands situated between 34° and 48° S. lat., and with an area of 62,160 square miles. The northern is the smaller, but possesses the greatest capabi- lities, and is called Eaheinomauwe. The southern is known as T’avai Poenammoo. Puysicat Cuaractrers.—A lofty range of mountains, from 12,000 to 14,000 feet high, traverses both islands, their upper portions covered with eternal snows, and their lower clothed with noble forests, the trees of which are equally distinguished for their tall and stately growth, as for their great girth. The soil of the plains is plentiful in places, and yields a good return under cultivation. Crrmate.—Temperate, but liable to fluctuations. Friora.—Tropical vegetation still lingers in palms, arborescent ferns, and epiphytic orchidacee ; the latter cease at 45° S. lat. Areca sapida reaches 34° S. lat. There is a curious mixture of its own peculiar forms with others common to both near and distant regions, as is evident in the genera dracena, forstera, myoporum, melaleuca, avicennia, weinmannia, tetragonia, dicera, pimelea, epacris, phormium, knightia, plagianthus, cya- thea, angiopteris, gleichenia, fuchsia, andromeda, oxalis, and mesembryanthemum. Palms, tree-ferns, and epiphy- tic orchidacee all occur farther south than in New Holland. The kawrie, yielding valuable masts and spars, is the dammara australis or agathis australis. Rextarions.—The most interesting are with the Pata- gonia Region through fuchsia, mniarum, drymis, acena, sisymbrium, and lepidium; and with the South Africa Region through gnaphalium, tetragonia, and oxalis. 3 ENT NE 76 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. There are also some other interesting affinities with South America. Agathis loranthifolia, a near ally of the kawrie, abounds in the Moluccas. XXV.—THE SOUTH AFRICA REGION. Exrent.—-Southern Africa beyond the tropic; Cape L’Agulhas, the extreme point, is in 34° 55’ S. L. PuysicaL CHaractrers.—“ The surface of this region is striking and peculiar, presenting three successive mountain ranges, running parallel to the coast and to each other. The first, called Lange Kloof, is between 20 and 60 miles from the ocean, the breadth of the intermediate plain being greatest in the west. The second chain, called the Zwaarte Berg, or Black Mountain, rises at an interval nearly similar behind the first, is considerably higher and more rugged, and consists often of double or triple ranges. Behind, at the distance of 80 or 100 miles, rises the Nieuweldts Gebirgte, the loftiest range in Southern Africa. The summits, to a great extent, are covered with snow ; from which circumstance the eastern and most elevated part is called the Sneuwberg, or Snowy Mountains, whose highest pinnacles are not supposed to fall short of 10,000 feet. The plain nearest the sea is fertile, well watered, richly clothed with grass and trees, and enjoys a mild and agreeable climate. The plains between the successive ranges are elevated, and contain a large proportion of the species of arid desert called karroo. ‘The southern plain in particular is almost entirely composed of the great karroo, 300 miles in length and nearly 100 in breadth, covered with a hard and impenetrable soil, almost unfit for any vegetation. Along the foot of the Sneuwberg, however, SOUTH AFRICA -REGION. Th there is a considerable tract, finely watered, and affording very rich pasturage. Beyond the mountains, the territory is for some space black and sterile; but it gradually im-— proves till it opens into the extensive pastoral plain occu- +; pied by the Boshuanas. So far as this has been explored to the northward, it becomes always more fertile, though to the west there has been observed a desert of very great aridity. ‘The eastern coast also consists chiefly of a fine pastoral plain, occupied by the various Caffre tribes, and broken by some chains of mountains, the direction of which has been very imperfectly explored.”—(Murray’s Geo- graphy.) The most fertile soil is found in the neighbour- hood of the coasts, along the base of the Snowy Mountains, and in the vicinity of the rivers. Several rivers and streams traverse the country, becoming during the rains much swollen, and shrinking in the long and painful droughts to a small size, or to chains of muddy pools. Sandstone and granite greatly prevail in the mountain ranges, on which often repose clay-slate and greywache. “ As far as is at present known, the whole of the table-land of Africa to the north of the Orange River is composed of limestone in horizontal strata, clay-slate, sandstone, and quartz rock, granite, greenstone, serpentine, and potstone.” —(Jameson in Murray’s Geography.) In some places the soil is very salt. Cirmate.—Over such a diversified surface there will be much variety in the climate. ‘The mean temperature and range are different in situations in the neighbourhood of each other, and the eastern coasts are colder than the western. Mr. Colebrook’s observations give the mean of Cape Town 67° 3, and the extremes 960 and 45°, or fifty- one degrees. The mean of the coldest month is 57°, of the hottest 79°, least summer heat 77°, and the solar radia- tion is very considerable. Inland both the mean and ig SO 78 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. range are lower; at Stellenbosch the mean of one year’s observations was 66° 3, range from 87° to 50°; at Zwart- land the mean 66° 5, range from 85° to 54°. The year is divided into the cold or rainy season, which lasts from May to October, and the warm or dry season, from November to April. From the same we have some facts on the hygroscopic condition of the atmosphere obtained near False Bay from December to March. At sunrise the ordi- nary dryness was 6’ or 7°, the extreme from 12° to 3% The maximum at noon was 249, the greatest range within the day 35°, mean dryness of the morning 7°, of the noon 14°, and further minimum dryness scarcely a fourth of the atmospheric capacity for moisture. Fiora.—This portion of Africa presents a good speci- men of a particular variety of vegetation, where there is an intimate relation between the flora and external influencing circumstances, and a close adaptation of the organs of plants to the duties required of them. In many respects this is highly conspicuous; the leaves are often very small or minutely divided, and clothed with hairs, or to- mentose, or lanuginose investments; many species are provided with fleshy succulent leaves, which do not part readily with their juices, and serve as so many magazines of nourishment, whilst the very numerous bulbous plants are eminently adapted to a climate which, for a long season, is extremely arid; at this time the bulbs retain their vitality without requiring any nourishment, and are ready to assume activity on the appearance of the rains. The want of moisture, equally with low temperature, as seen in northern regions, would seem productive of a low, stunted, bushy vegetation, and is also characterised by the frequency of spinous organs, the disagreeable effects of which are expressed in the quaint name of wait-a-bit, given to acacia detinéns. The colours of the flowers are usually rich and SOUTH AFRICA REGION. 79 brilliant, the brightness of the solar rays, assisted by a clear atmosphere, having developed them in the most per- fect manner. Pink, yellow, and white flowers greatly pre- vail, with a rare mixture of those tamer colours seen in a luxuriant vegetation under a moist atmosphere. Though the flowers are not conspicuous for their fragrance, this is frequent in the foliage; we observe this in various pelargonium cultivated with us, and on the spot in species of diosma, composite, and the numerous stapelia, if the carrion odour of the latter can be so called. The mention of a beautiful provision of nature must not be omitted, particularly as it involves a departure from a general rule. The capsules of several species of mesem- bryanthemum refuse to open except when moistened by the rains, lest, opening in a dry season, they should shed their seeds on an unprepared soil. Leen The very numerous species which constitute the flora of | South Africa belong, to a considerable extent, to genera | which are peculiar; and even when it shares its natural | families with other regions, its genera are rarely extended ! to them; as in proteaceze, leguminose, irideze, composite, rosacez, and cruciferee. It is only in particular situations that forest exists, giving shelter to numerous savage buffa- loes. The largest trees are ilex crocea, curtisia faginea, canonia capensis, taxus elongata, laurus teterrima, olea ca- pensis, tarchonanthus camphoratus, t. arboreus, brabejum stellatum, acacia vera, ekebergia capensis, and various pro- teaceze, gardenia, and royena. We will glance hastily over the prevailing families and their more peculiar genera. pe Proteacee abounds in protea, serrularia, leucospermum, lorocephalus, spatalla, mimetes, and nivenia; Legumi- nose has liparia, lebeckia, aspalathus, borbonia, — les- sertia, psoralia, podalyria, and schotia; Ericacee, the very numerous and interesting group of erica, and the far 86 THE REGIONS OF VEGETATION. smaller genus bleria; Diosmee prevail extensively in diosma, agathosma, adenandra, and baryosma;