THE PILGRIMAGE TO AMARNATH	357
Passing the night at Yavjin, the next day they prose-
cuted their march. About nine o'clock they reached a
place called Sheshnag. The cold was now becoming in-
creasingly rigorous. Sheshnag is a vast circular natural
reservoir of water, a gigantic cavity in the mountains
resembling a tub with one of its sides open. The water was
of dazzling purity with a bluish grey tint. Ramdas and the
party approached the margin of the spherical lake and
found the water icy cold.
Turning to Ramcharandas he said:
"Ramji, remove your clothing, let us have a bath in the
lake." Ramcharandas shrank from the prospect.
"The water is extremely cold," he said; "do not let us
bathe here."
"No, Ram, it is essential that we should have a bath in
this lake. Ramdas will take Ms dips near the bank as he is
not used to swimming, whereas you ought to take a jump
into the water and have a good swim. You are young and a
spirited youth. You have no cause to hesitate. Come along,'1
urged Ramdas.
Reluctantly the lad doffed the snug and warm cloak
that covered his body, while Ramdas also divested himself
of his scanty garment. He first entered the water and when
he came to a depth in which the water stood up to his chest,
he asked Ramcharandas to take the leap, which he did,
swimming for about five minutes before returning to the
bank. Ramdas after three dips also gained back his place.
The pandits were ready to rub and dry his body with their
coarse towels.
Then the party went forward and came to Panehatarni
by evening. Panehatarni is a flat valley in the midst of high a
mountains covered with thick layers of silvery snow.  T]j$4
river here was flowing at a slow pace. The pilgrims pitched
their tents near the bank of the river. It must be nofeckihat
in these higher regions the sun shone dimly through^ tls^fefe
grey mist, and the air was surcharged with