LETTER xvi COMPLIMENTS TO ENGLAND 7 being strong is far less deaf, and consequently the virtues of wormwood have forced themselves on the Khan's attention. The boy had suffered various things. He had been sewn up in raw sheepskins, his ears had been filled with fresh clotted blood, and he had been compelled to drink blood while warm, taken from behind the ear of a mare., and also water which had washed off a verse of the Koran from the inside of a bowl. It transpired that the Khan, who is a devout Moslem and a mollali, could not allow his son to take my medicine unless a piece of paper with a verse of the Koran upon it were soaked in the decoction. I asked him why the Bakhtiaris like the English, and he replied, " Because they are brave and like fighting, and like going shooting on the hills with us, and don't cover their faces." He added after a pause, " and because they conquer all nations, and do them good after they have conquered them." I asked how they did them good, and he said, " They give them one law for rich and poor, and they make just laws about land, and their governors take the taxes, and no more, and if a man gets money he can keep it. Ah/' he exclaimed earnestly, " why don't the English come and take this country ? If you don't, Eussia will, and we would rather have the English. We're tired of our lives. There's no rest or security." It may well be believed that there are no schools, though some deference is paid to a mollah, which among the Bahktiaris means only a man who can write, and who can read the Koran. These rare accomplishments are usually hereditary. The chiefs' sons are taught to read and write by munsJiis. A few of the highest Khans send their sons to Tihran or Isfahan for education, or they attend school while their fathers are detained as