LETTER xxv OFFICIAL POLITENESS 18V

he was most courteous. He sent his secretary to ask me
to spend a day or two at his house, and told him, in case
I could not, to remain for the night to arrange for my
comfort and safety, an order very efficiently carried out.1

He sent word also that if I could not accept his
hospitality I was still to be his guest, and not to pay for
anything—a kindness which, for several reasons, I never
accept. He added, that though the road was safe, he
should send three sowars " to show the Khanum honour,"
and they had received strict orders not to accept any
present. The men who attempted to rob my caravan
spent the night here, and, as they had robbed them
before, the villagers were very glad of the protection of
the Governor's scribe and my sowars.

Sujlulak, October 2.—Having been "courteously en-
treated," I sent on the caravan and servants at day-
break, and, having the sowars with me, was able to make
the march to Geokahaz at a fast pace. The sowars
were three wild-looking Kurds, well mounted, and in
galloping Boy had to exert himself considerably to keep
up with them, and they obviously tried to force his pace.

The day was cool, cool enough for a sheepskin coat,
and the air delightful. The halcyon season for Persian
travelling has come, the difficulties are over, and the
fever has left me. Brown, bare, and bushless as are the
rolling hills over which the road passes, it would be im-

1 I have very great pleasure in acknowledging a heavy debt of gratitude
to Persian officials, high and low, for the courtesy with which I was
uniformly treated. It is my practice in travelling to make my arrange-
ments very carefully, to attend personally to every detail, and to give
other people as little trouble as possible, but in Persia, when off the beaten
track, the insecurity of some of the roads, the need of guards at night
when one is living in camp, and the frequent insubordination and
duplicity of charvadars render a reference to the local authorities occa-
sionally imperative; and not only has the needed help been given, but it
has been given courteously, and I have always been, treated as respectfully
as an English lady would expect to be in her own country.