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JOURNEYS IN KUBDISTAN LETTER xxvm

Hesso's house is just a *' but and a ben/' with a door
which involves stooping. Its rough stone walls are un-
plastered, and the only light admitted comes from a hole
in the roof, which serves to let out the smoke. I confess

HESSO KHAN.

to a feeling of trepidation when I asked to see the
Kurdish chief, and I felt the folly of my errand, A
superbly-dressed Kurd took us into a room dense with
tobacco smoke, which, from its darkness, the roughness of
its walls, and the lowness of its rude roof, resembled a