II

M t^t Clafe ^ i^t Clangs

T ^HEBE the Ganges leaves the hills and comes to

r the plains is Eikkikesh, a grey little village
where hill-folk with narrow slit eyes and high cheek
bones come from their mountain homes over the great
suspension bridge called, the Swing of Lakshmana
(Lakshmanjhula), to trade their simple wares. Baby
monkeys in their mothers' wake race one another up
the thick steel cables of the bridge; yet, long before
the age of steel, the Swing of Lakshrnana existed.
Here, tradition avers, the heroes of the epic, Samayana^
passed through Hardwar and Bikkikesh, and in this
same spot did sling a bridge—was it of lianas or of
ropes ?

Just below this Eikkikesh the pale green trans-
parent waters divide into channels that speed, powerful
and melodious, between wooded islands, down to
Hardwar where they once more finite. The temple-
crowned Silver Hill (Chandi Pahad) watches over the
transformation of the Granges from a mountain torrent
into a powerful stream—transformed, as it were, from
tempestuous maidenhood into matronly grace.

Hardwar, ancient and holy pilgrim resort resting
on one of the channels, was built round the spot where,
occording to the followers of Vishnu, Lord Hari left the
imprint of his feet; or, as the followers of Siva would
have it, where Hara (Siva) trod this very spot.

Since ancient times this has been a station on the
pilgrim route to the Kumaon shrines; since ancient