CONTENTS Foreword vii' Preface ix List of Illustrations - xi 1. The lure of the mountains • 1 2. Pleasures of a journey into Himalayas 5 3. Remember if you are going to the hills 11 4. The story of pilgrimage , 17 5. Himalaya—the divine king of mountains 25 6. Uttarakhand—The cradle of early civilisations 35 7. The land and people of Garhwal 45 8. The land and people of Kumaon 53 9. Swargarohini—the expedition to heaven 65 10. The Holy Ganga 77 11. The ascent on the sources of Ganga 85 12. Trek to the Valley of Gods—Kedarnath 91 13. Yamunotri Valley 97' 14. Journey into the interiors of Himalaya 101 15. The lake town—Nainital 107 16. Almora 113 17. Trek toPindari Glacier 117 18. The lure of the valley 121 19. JaunsarBabar 129 20. The mysterious lake—Rupkund 135 21. The Gods, Goddesses, Demons and Devils of Uttarakhand 143 22. Katyur—The Switzerland of India 149 23. The land of free love—Rang Bhang 153 24. The way to Heaven 157" 25. HariKiDoon 161