Uttarakhand 87 in plenty. I have seen Bharals in hundreds, negotiating sheer rock faces or crossing the ridges. Ascent on the sources of Ganga From Gaumukh onwards, I have ventured journey on two occasions, one towards Tapovan and then undertaken an ascent on right shoulder of the Shivling, upto a height of 19,500 ft. The area beyond Gaumukh, after crossing the ridge, the entire scenery is exceptionally beautiful. There is a big even ground which is inter- sected with small streams and in the background of which lies magnificent peak of Shivling. A little ahead is Kedarnath dome, the climb to which consists of crossing big crevasses. We halted at Tapovan, in the lap of Shivling and had three memorable days of climbing there. The climb upto right shoulder of Shivling was a memorable feat. From the top we could glance on the other side of the valley and see magnificent range rising over Chaturangi Glacier. Ascent on Bhagirathi group of peaks It was in the year 1968 when we marched quickly upto Harsil and from Gangotri to Gaumukh. At Gaumukh we had intensive training of ice and snow craft. We did scrambling on the rocks and enjoyed the evenings with campfire. After having fully acclimatised ourselves we proceeded determined onwards on our journey. The trek from Gaumukh to Nandan Van is very difficult. It lies overs heer rocks and huge boulders. While we walked and walked we had crossed Chaturangi and Rakta Varna Glacier. As we moved on, we saw Shivling and Kedarnath dome from different angles. The other peaks visible at close range were Karchha Kund, Chauk- hamba, Bhagirathi sisters, Bharat Kuntay, BhrighuPanth and numerous other peaks. We could see the vast plains of Tapovan which we crossed last year. We halted at Nandan Van which was at a height of 15,000 ft. The colours and dramatic change from sunset to night and the appearance of noon which we viewed there is unforgettable. The wonderful moonrise behind the Bhagirathi can be put into words only by a celebrated poet, like Kalidas. Next morning, we got up early and left for Vasuki Tal. This part of the trek was easier