BITTER WATERS 211

to it and went off again in search, of insects, keeping generally
to the direction of our route so that they could catch me up
when they had had their refreshments.

They had obviously discussed my attitude and concluded
that it would be betterto march properly themselves than have
me walk. That was more than the most callous of them could
stand. So I mounted when they caught me up and Farraj
rode with me, evidently determined to get to the bottom of
things. I like walking, I assured him, but I hate this slow
rate of marching. Surely it is better for us all to get to the
well quickly and pitch our tents. Then you can have your
coffee, while I can walk about as I like seeking these insects
and bits of rock. Tell me, he replied ; we notice two things
in you. Firstly you are hot-tempered and easily get angry
if we do not as you please. And secondly you are ever ready
to disbelieve what the guides say. Tell me, he went on very
frankly and confidentially, were you like that from the day
God created you ? or what is the reason for it ? Surely you
know that the guides do not lie deliberately, and this is their
own country where they know every bush and every hum-
mock. Why then should you suspect them of lying 1 As for
the guides, I replied with equal frankness, I know that they
know this country and you say they do not lie deliberately.
Do you remember that day marching down to cAin Sala,
when I wanted to go aside to visit Adraj on the way and 9 Ali
told us it was distant a day's journey ? Afterwards we went
to Adraj, as you know, and when I drew it on my map I
found it was but an hour's ride from our route. Tell me, did
'All really not know or was it otherwise ? You speak sooth,
he replied, 'Ali lied but he was thinking of our need of water.
Well then, I went on, only this morning Ibn Humaiyid,
who is our guide now and went with 'Ali and Zayid to spy
out the way to Ziqirt, told us to hasten, as you know, saying
that we would not come to the place before sunset if we
marched hard. You have seen how we have marched this
morning. You all stopped to hunt that hare and you stopped
again for coffee and I have walked on my feet. We have
marched slowly and it is but noon. Now tell me—how far is
Ziqirt ? Ziqirt! he exclaimed, why, that is yet afar off, very