304 THE EMPTY QUARTER

scattered Abal bushes and very little (though still something)
of other plants. A raven appeared on the scene some way
ahead to emphasize the Jifelessness of our surroundings. I
recorded the ridges and valleys as we went, a monotonous
task in an altogether monotonous world. The men sang
grimly to wear down their boredom. Salim discoursed to me
of his experiences in the desert. He had never done or
attempted its crossing from Shanna or Naifa, and had never
heard of anyone else having done it. We are surely the first
to make this journey, he said. Beyond Hawaya and Shu-
waikila I have no knowledge of these parts except from the
talk of others. But once long ago I rode with Al Nifl from
the Aflaj district to Naifa, seeking out the Sa'ar folk to raid.
And another time I went from Bir Fadhil to Sulaiyil with our
grazing camels, when there had been rain in those parts. The
herds remained in the desert, and I went to the village to get
dates and other provisions. But this is the Empty Quarter;
no one comes here, never.

So we trailed on rather wearily throughout that afternoon
over immense gently-undulating plains varied at intervals by
rougher patches formed by the confluence of dunes and
ridges. At first there was little wind except occasional
refreshing gusts from the north-west, while the clouds for the
most part were massed in the south and west. Gradually the
wind gathered strength, always coming from the same quar-
ter, and the flying sheets of sand made the latter part of the
afternoon somewhat disagreeable. By 3.30 p.m. a mild gale
was blowing and stirring up a feeble sandstorm over a
considerable area, blotting out the view. We struggled on
but Salim was showing signs of weariness. I am thirsty, he
said, let us stop awhile for our companions to drink. Quite
firmly I goaded him on. We will lose time if we halt, I said;
we are in the van and, as long as we march, the others will
follow. Look how far they are behind and lagging. Per-
chance they would like to camp now though the afternoon is
scarce half spent. If we stop it will mean camping here for
the night. By God ! he replied with a sigh of resignation,
this country has good pasture. It would do the camels good.
We shall come to pastures as good, I replied, before sunset.