354 THE EMPTY QUARTER

whitish wilderness of gravel in which were frequent burrows
of the great Dhabb (spiny-tailed lizard) but little or no vege-
tation except the now familiar lines of Harmal and acacias.
Everywhere there was the sprouting of tiny plants too
minute for the camels to notice, and we sought in vain some-
thing that would justify a halt for refreshments. Salim
produced the last of his dry meat and we agreed that it would
be pleasant to have some coffee if we could find something
for the camels to browse on meanwhile. But the distant lines
of Harmal led us on in the hope they might be Dha'a only to
disappoint us when we reached them until, towards 10 a.m.,
I announced my intention of halting at the next patch of
Samr (acacia) we might come to. Zayid redoubled his
energies and went into the lead, but the others lagged in the
hope that I would be as good as my word. I drew rein accord-
ingly at the next bushes and went off after a hawk-moth that
I saw darting from flower to flower of the Harmal, while the
rest set to work with the pots and the fire. Zayid, left in the
air, came back livid with fury and I said not a word, leaving
the others to appease his wrath. But not to be appeased he
sulked apart while we enjoyed coffee and dates. Thus a good
hour went by and, when we resumed the march, I informed
Salim about the error of his direction. With the mounting
sun the desert had become somewhat hazy and the poor
visibility made it impossible to see the distant uplands.
Nevertheless Salim agreed that it would be safer to march
west for a bit until he could pick up a landmark. We
changed course accordingly, and Zayid came racing up from
the rear in a perfect paroxysm of fury. What is this ? he
cried; where are your senses that you change direction ?
The afternoon is upon us and you go wandering here and
there in this desert. The water is there, there, he added
challengingly, pointing south-west in the very direction from
which we had turned away. I felt no inclination to leave
Salim to bear the brunt of the storm and took up the chal-
lenge before he could answer, for in truth he was not very
sure of himself. Oh Zayid, I answered, Salim is our guide and
he has directed us over the desert all these days. What fault
have you found in him that you question his guiding now ?