II

DOMESTIC LIFE 31

Weaving.—The warp is prepared by passing the thread round
two smooth pieces of wood, one of which is fastened to twa
uprights, while the ends of the other are attached to the ends
of a broad leather band, which passes behind the back of the
weaver as she sits on the ground and, by leaning back, stretches
the threads to the requisite degree of tightness. The woof is
formed by passing to and fro bamboos round which are wound
different coloured threads, which are beaten home with a well
polished batten made of the sago palm.

A very serviceable form of quilt called " puanpui" is made by
passing round every fourth or fifth thread of the warp a small
roll of raw cotton and drawing both ends up. A row of these
cotton rolls is put in after every fourth or fifth thread of the
woof, so that on one side the quilt is composed of closely placed
tufts of cotton.

Dyeing.—The commonest dye is obtained by boiling the
leaves of the Assam indigo (Strolilanthes flaccidifolia). Many
immersions are required to render the colour permanent, and as
the plant, which is cultivated near the villages or in the gardens,
does not grow luxuriantly, it is seldom possible to obtain enough
leaves in any one year for more than two immersions, so that
the whole process may take two or three years.

Several red and yellow dyes are known, but they are little
used, and most of the thread, excepting the blue and white, is
obtained from the bazars.

Ornamentation.—Cloths are ornamented almost entirely by
lines of different colours. White cloths have blue and red
stripes down the centre and sometimes one transversely about a
foot from either end. Coloured cloths are mainly blue, with
stripes of red, yellow, and green. Zigzags are not un-
common, and short lengths of this pattern are placed
haphazard on cloths and coats. The stems of women's pipes
are ornamented with spirals and coils.

The most valued * animal is the mithan; these tame bison 8;
wander all day at will in the jungle round the village and animals,
towards dusk return spontaneously, each animal going to its
owner's house, round which it loiters till it receives a little salt,
after which it joins the rest of the herd under the zawlbuk,
The animals are only used for slaughter. They interbreed