346 THE STORY OF MY LIFE [1853
stein's. Here, one room is hung with artificial stalactites : in another are portraits of Wallenstein and his second wife, and the charger which was shot under him at Liitzen, stuffed — but only the body remains of the original horse, the head and legs have beer, eaten up by moths and renewed! The garden is charming, with an aviary of peacocks.
" A. has been twice threatened with arrest for persisting in wearing a wide-awake in the streets, for at present it is a revolutionary emblem ! At first he insisted on putting it on again, but the second attack has been too much for his fortitude. Just now I was roused by his shrieks, and reached his room just in time to see a large black sheep emerge from under his bed! — it had walked in from the market by the open galleries and had taken refuge there."
July 23. We came here by Dresden and Saxe-Altenberg, with its charming old castle. Near Hof the engine burst, doing us no harm, but keeping us for hours sitting on the grassy railway bank till another engine arrived, so that we did not get here till 3 A. M. The cathedral is glorious. Only imagine my having found Baron and Baroness von Usedom in the hotel, and the next morning Lady Malcolm and her two daughters arrived — most kind, most amusing — and Madame von Usedom most extraordinary. She received me with ' You 're wonderfully like your sister, and she is very beautiful,' so that Js a compliment ! "
" July 28. We have had another vision of loveliness at Nuremberg. One became quite weary of saying, 40h! how beautiful ! how beautiful ! ' But no letter can give an idea of what Nuremberg is — 4 The German Venice ' Madame d' Usedom called it. And Albert Diirer is a part of the place: whenever I see his woodcuts again at they left him and his wife alone ; and his rood works live on so much, that sick persons are often >rought here to lie upon his grave, in the hope of their >eing cured.'