LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Freya Stark, from a pencil sketch by Dorothy Hawksley frontispiece Facing page Fort Alishtar........16 The Guard on the Varazan Pass 16 The Bride of QaTa Kafrash.....18 A Lur in Khava wearing a costume now prohibited ly the Persian Government, and a headdress to be replaced by the Pahlevi hat......32 Printed in the " London Illustrated News " A Lur Caravan at Arjini.....36 The Mound at Qal'a Kafrash.....36 A looted graveyard across the Kangevari . . 38 Printed in the " London Illustrated Nats " A bronze-age grave from Dilfan.....38 Keram Khan........48 The farewell to Keram Khan above Harsin 56 The Rock of Alamutfrom the South . . . .210 The Rock ofAlamut Elburz in the background Ruins ofNevisar Shah......218 Ruins on the Alamut Rock, looking South . . .218 Village of Garmrud in the Alamut Valley , . .228 [3]