An anxious night they kindly remove him. The Ittivends took no sides in the matter and waited till the man departed of his own accord and left us to eat our supper in peace. All the same we spent an anxious night. Kerarn did not think it advisable for me to sleep with the ladies and out of his reach. He arranged my sack at the back of the guest tent, with himself in a strategic position between me and the open side. My luggage he piled carefully under his own head and mine. The horses were tethered close by and Hajji settled down beside them. Distant fires of Ittivend camps twinkled in the shadows of the valley and the lower slopes: the cliffs of Peri Kuh rose flooded in moonlight from the darkness: there was an immense and beautiful silence. Just as I was dozing off, Hajji crept up, and whispered to me to sleep lighdy, for there would be trouble in the night: I opened one eye to watch him creep back and sit, a wakeful and forlorn litde figure, guarding his horses in the moonlight: and I heard no more till, some- where about the middle of the night, the two men woke me with shouts which frightened away a woman who was creep- ing from under the back of the tent towards the luggage I was sleeping on. I called on Amanulla Khan's two wives next morning. They lived in separate tents and had very litde to do with each other, and were both equally beautiful in an imperial way; in the dim light they sat like idols, hung with many necklaces and bracelets, under the weight of their great turbans. The tents themselves were extremely bare. Aman- ulla's first wife apologized; their furnishings, said she, were locked away in Khurramabad, since they could not have kept them here " in the land of thieves." Robbery in Luristan is as much the topic of conversation as horses and hounds in a hunting county. [55]