The HiMen Treasure matter of fact the land is covered with ruins of villages and cities, probably from days when Lurish Atabeks built on sites laid out long before by their predecessors in the land, the Kurdish Hasanwayds from Sarmaj near Harsin, and the Sassanians before them. Christians and Jews were settled in this country in very early days; and graves of far more ancient people lie beneath the ground that runs towards die rivers, graves marked with boulders embedded in earth and thorns, but still visible to the eye of the expert and of the tribesman. The country is divided by the almost unbroken ridge of Kebir (or Kabir) Kuh, and beyond, south-eastward, flows the Saidmarreh River, which becomes, lower down in its better- known reaches, the Kerkha. It is a fine stream, green and deep. It flows through desolate hills that lie in rust-coloured ridges, like the upturned hulls of ships, in parallel ranges east- ward. The eastern bank is Lakistan, a dangerous country, whence Bairanwand and Sagwand raiders cross the stream in summer ebb and pillage the tribesmen of the border. I have been into the north of Lakistan, travelling into it from the plain of Nihavend: but it was surrounded by so careful a cordon of police, and was considered so undesirable for the traveller, that I thought the best chance of reaching the centre of the country would be through die solitudes of Pusht-i-Kuh, if one could cross them unhindered and un- observed. This would have proved a perfecdy sound and successful theory if a buried treasure had not come to compli- cate my plans. Tbe Treasure " As you are thinking of Luristan, would you like to hunt for a treasure?*' said someone at a party one evening, a few days before I was to leave. [62]