Night in the hills grasses in the beds of dry gullies, that looked soft from far away, changed, as we approached, into desiccated beds of thorns. As the darkness began to fall we turned aside into a fold of the land, under a high cliff ridge called Zamiyah Kuh, out of sight so as to leave the path clear through the night to the Malikshahi smugglers. A cold wind came creeping, not the fierce batterer of the desert, but an insidious creature that chilled one to the bone. The Philosopher, with great resourcefulness, seized my spare Burberry and put it on. Alidad made a fire in a small gully. Shah Riza answered my enquiries as to food by the remark that we had lots of flour, and the muleteers, having unpacked and settled down, began to mix a few handfuls of it with water, to pat it into a disc about an inch thick, and put it under the embers to cook. Shah Riza, whose dealings with the Burberry had shown a touch of the Epicurean, must belong to the Stoics after all, I reflected, and began to hunt for sardines in my saddle-bags. " Another time," said I, " a chicken, alive or dead, is to be carried with us into any desert." The three men agreed that female fragility might reasonably require such knick-knacks. They cleared a small space near the fire for my sleeping- sack to lie evenly, settled themselves on the other side, and we were soon engulfed in the high, thin, nightly silence of the hills. The Law of Hospitality The Philosopher had been rather perturbed by the fact that his mare, a vicious grey with a blind eye, slipped over the edge during our descent from Gildar. The edge was not quite sheer, and she slid on her four hooves with the smuggler hanging on behind, using the tail as a rudder: the operation [77]