An unfortunate encounter Alidad, after a heart-to-heart talk with an inferior servant who marched on foot, they were going to fetch a bride and all her trousseau for one of their chiefs. They were un- attractive men, and wore the Palilevi hat with a European coat, and rode on embroidered saddles with silver pommels. The chief among them had murdered his father and was, Alidad explained, " not a good man," even in a country where the standard is not very high. He looked at me in a glowering way, twisting himself round on his saddle to do so after he had passed, and calling to Alidad to explain me: and as we rode on I felt uncomfortably that my days of freedom would be numbered as soon as these ill-omened ones reached the capital with their story. Shah Riza, too, looked flustered, his grey hair sticking out in wild rebellion under the respectable superstructure of the national headgear as he told me the unedifying details of the great one's past. It took us half an hour's riding or so down the easy, tree-filled defile before we could capture again the morning's sense of peace. A little narrow valley, coming down from north-west, opened up into ours at the end of the defile, and showed at its head behind us a bit of the cliff table-top of Barazard, to which we had looked across all day yesterday as we came down from our pass. This meeting and meeting again, from different points and in other lights, of the same landmarks, is the charm of hilly travel. The mountain shape, first seen as a dream in the distance, alarming as you approach, lost perhaps altogether as you become involved in its outworks and ramifying valleys, appears again suddenly, unexpected as some swift light upon a face beloved to which custom has blunted our eyes. Like a human being, the mountain is a composite creature, only to be known after many a view from many a different point, and repaying this loving study,^if it [91]