The Hidden Treasure garden of the tribe and came again to rough pasture between red sides of hills. The lesser ridge that shut out the main valley of the Khirr, (our Garau River of the days before) soon sank into nothingness upon our right, and we came out into the openness of the main valley, and saw again in the hot blues of the middle morning the noble barricade of Kebir Kuh. On our left an uncompromising red wall with splashes of white limestone rose steep and near and treeless. Here was the road to the treasure. I saw it, winding up through the crumbly powder of the lime and asked the direction, which corroborated exactly with what was written on my map. Now, however, we were not attending to this part of the adventure, and rode straight on until we left the Musi lands and came into the boundaries of a small tribe of Arab origin, who take the name and guard the shrine of one of the saints from Medina, a certain Jaber, buried in this valley under a white plastered obelisk. Indistinct remains of old buildings and Moslem gravestones surrounded the obelisk in its lonely place. For some reason unknown it made me think of what I imagine to be a Tibetan landscape: the round and ugly hills behind, and the small tower rising in polygonal tiers about a foot high, with dingy discoloured plaster above the half- subterranean building of the tomb. There was no name and no date, but the place is probably old; it has an air of secrets about it, a life now long under the ground. The Dusan guide and the young man in the velvet stooped down the steps into the tomb to make their vows while Shah Riza gave him- self the airs of an archaeologist, wandering about and picking up shards of pottery as he had seen me do. After leaving this place of ancient piety our track went down into the river bed, flat as a table between the long ridge [104]