We camp with the Dusan of a fever chart. It was called Kuh Siah, the Black Mountain, and continued the formation we had already seen in the valley helow Garau: here, as there, it was broken at intervals by black ravines. The Larti and Hindimini, the two tribes we meant to visit, lived each in one of these ravines, under the shadow of the mountain wall. Between us and them, across the open stretch of plain, were white and red small salty hills, untidily scattered in a straggling line. Our track, dotted through the afternoon by wayfaring labourers, made straight for them, passing in the open plain a little cemetery with domed tombs, and the obelisk memorials of which the Lurs are fond. The Dusani guide was near his own home, but the darkness threatened us before he could hope to reach it, and no one is willingly out in this country in the dark. As the sun sank, we stopped to water our horses at the only spring in the neighbour- hood, the Eye of Bitterness, which slips into a green hollow out of a cavern in the limestone hills. It is good plentiful water, and cold, with a slight salty taste, not unpleasing. After leaving it, we wound among the hillocks. The plough- land ceased; we came into a grassy downland; and on an emi- nence found a Dusani camp, just as the last women were shouldering their goatskins at a water-hole below in the dusk. Here was no question of a doubtful welcome, for our Dusani was among his own people, and Sa'id Ja'far was also a man of consideration and well known, though of a different tribe. The place was high and windswept: from the tent door it looked out westward to Warzarine, and east to the open valley spaces beyond whose horizon the invisible Saidmarreh flowed. To the north we could see the day's travel, and the hill where the treasure was, and ridges in Lakistan beyond. I ml