The Hidden Treasure and respect. His son, who was obviously a charming and kind man, listened with great deference while the old sheikh apologized for the poverty of our meal and begged us to use all the tribe could afford as if it were our own. They brought a mess of pumpkins and a small chicken floating in a syrup of melted butter, a food which after a week or so of hard riding in the Luristan air becomes more appetizing than one would think. This winter, they said, there would be nothing but acorns to eat, as the harvest was poor for want of rain. We hurried our leave-taking so as to have time for more digging among the Lard. I had promised the old man of yesterday to return and see what he had been able to find during my absence, and resisted all efforts of Shah Riza to miss the rendezvous and take the more direct route home. "We accordingly hit the Larti ravine some little distance be- low the city, and made our way into it by a path among trees and boulders. A foxy-faced old man came walking down behind me. He was the headman of Larti, the kadkhuda. u You walk well in the hills,55 said he after a greeting. " But I am a hill woman," I explained. " You run as lightly as a partridge," he said. " Is not England a city?" Sa'id Ja5far, who had left the horses and was also walking down, interposed. " Perhaps you come from Scotland?" he said. " When I was in Baghdad, soldiers came marching through: I saw at once that they were different from the others. I said to myself: * These people surely come from the hills. They walk better and they are dressed like us of the Pusht-i-Kuh. Perhaps they are our cousins/ And when I asked, I was told that they were Scotchmen of the mountains." fi26l