The Hidden Treasure uninhabited, for people were ploughing here and there. They gave drinks from their water-skins to our police, who never appeared to travel with so necessary an equipment as a water- bottle in this arid land. As we came out into Garau by the defile where we had first met the ill-omened wedding guests, an old man came down with his plough on his shoulder; it was made all of wood with a blunted wooden blade, shiny and smooth with use. He, smiling up with shrewd peasant eyes under his matted hair and felt skull cap, looked as ancient as the instrument he carried. "We met the first advance guards of the tribes moving to winter quarters: a trail of tired people, donkeys and small black oxen laden with cooking-pots, carpets, and tents, and a few chicken on the top of all. Women, their long gowns catching them at every step, walked half bent with small children on their backs. The daily stage for a tribe on the move must be a very slow one; and one can realize why, a year or two ago, when some Lurs, settled by force in eastern Persia, wanted to break their way home across the hostile land, they eliminated the worst of the impedimenta by massacring their own families before the march. Shah Riza had of course forgotten the merely terrestrial matter of lunch, though he had been reminded in good time. "How wicked," said he, without a moment's hesitation when I asked him; " how wicked is the wife of Mahmud to let a guest depart without food for the wilderness." " She forgot," said I, " but it is only once, and you forget every day. Now what are you going to do 3" " Khanum" said he, with an appearance of gentle reason- ableness, ** by the Majesty of God, can I produce food in an uninhabited lande" I gave up the effort to cope with my Philosopher and turnec to the police. They were taking me where I had never plannec