The lieutenant is ill water, a black trickle like spilt ink among the blazing rocks, with the dusty shadow of one oak tree thrown across it. But we had hardly begun to take the packs off, when the lieutenant and his two policemen came up and begged us to ride a little farther, to some tents on higher ground. The lieutenant was so ill that he could hardly ride at ail: he crouched on the saddle, holding my sunshade to protect him from the sun, and murmuring dolefully at intervals that he was dying, while his bodyguard rode solicitously before and behind him. They led the way, up a small rise, on to the edge of the open plain of Husainabad, or Deh Bala as it is still more generally known. Then for the first time since leaving Iraq, we looked at a flat horizon to the north, where ran the plateaux west of Kermenshah: long table hills enclosed us right and left, though so far apart that the impression was that of openness, given by the level land between. Only a high massif to the north-west, the Manisht Kuh, still domin- ated the view. The plain was rich and filled with plough- land: well-grown oak trees grew there, widely spaced, so that each tree had sun and earth around it; a warm breeze came across the level space, driving clouds across a blue sky. As soon as we topped the rise, our policeman led us from the track towards the right, and we came to three tents near together, small and poor under the trees. The lieutenant collapsed beside one of them, while I with my party settled down for lunch beside another; and while the chicken was caught and massacred in the name of Allah, two cheerful little orphan girls, dressed with all fineries of beads and bangles, came to chat and experiment, in momen- tary awe, with the zip fastener of my travelling dress. They had been adopted by the woman of the tent: she looked at them smilingly, as if they were her own—but sadly too, for [167]