A Journey to the Valley of the Assassins the genuine note was only heard when they came to speak of Kaiumars, their legendary king, who first built the Rock, said they. No doubt in a winter's evening one might collect many an old tale, but I think that the lords of the castle would scarcely figure in them. Meanwhile the sunlight came to us from the west. Through its level shafts we descended across the meadows, and talked of hunting-eagles with Mahmud, while Ismail, ahead of us with the mules, sang the melancholy ballads of the charvardars. They seemed to be hendecasyllables, three rhymes like the quatrains of FitzGerald, a long sad story of Miriam of Tanakabun. Here as among the Arabs song still springs naturally out of men's daily life; the incidents of the market, the gossip of the valley, are woven into ballads as they come: ever retouched and readapted to their modern background, they keep their original substance perhaps through centuries, like the ballad of Rosmunda the Gothic princess, which, in modern garb, is still sung by Italian peasants in the hills of Piedmont. I had promised the policeman a visit, so that after a talk to the ladies of the house, and another futile effort for the baby's welfare, I went with the two boys across the river- lands to the police house in Mahmudabad. My luggage had been thoroughly gone through in my absence, and had disclosed nothing more criminal than a Persian grammar, so that I found both the police and the Arbab as cordial as possible. The little office contained a table and chair, but we sat independently of them on the floor, and were presently joined by an elderly unshaven man who proved to be not only interested but also intelligent in old castles, and told me so much of the one above Shirkuh and its reservoirs and the ruins of ancient water channels that I made tentative suggestions about a journey to investigate and was only [222 ]