Old route to the Caspian colony of bugs had invaded my mosquito net, almost the only ones I came upon in Mazanderan. So we left next morning. I sat in the porch of the little mosque and waited for my mules. The Throne of Solomon shone faintly, like a transparent flame in the white summer sky. 'Aziz and his small son had gone ahead to prepare the welcome in Garmrud, and Ismail was to take me across the valley to see an old castle on our way. " Do not forget me," said the doctor, as he came to see us off. " We shall never meet again." He waved his hand with my clock in it, which I had left as a legacy, and watched us as we jingled down over the stubble. Three Weddings We climbed from our shelf down to the Alamut by Zavarak, rested a minute at the house under the trees, and then made straight up the other side of the valley towards a little village called Ilan, where an Assassin tower was said to guard the way from Syalan and the Caspian. The tracks from the old stronghold of Alamut go by Atun and flan, over many Sialan passes, down on to the Do and Seh Hizar Rivers in the north. It is natural that there should have been fortifications to overlook them, and it is not the existence so much as the character of the ruin of lian that is unexpected. The place is on the very top of an immense boulder about 100 feet high, and steep on every side as a " gendarme " in the Alps. It is made of a sort of pudding stone, and has rolled down in a desolate wilderness of rocks of the same kind where, as one descends, one may think of Dante climbing from one infernal circle to the other. In the overhanging pock-marked cliffs wild bees have made their nests; I tried some of their honey at the end of a stick, and thought it sweeter than any honey I had ever tasted.