The Throne of Solomon life, unchanging, centuries old and forgotten, held our pilgrim souls in its peace. Here in the moonlight shadow of the mountain itself, I heard the legend of King Solomon and his Throne; and an alternative version which has it that the prophet, burdened with more wives than even he could stand, sent there for a different one every night, and left her in the morning, frozen to death by the mountain air. The men of Shahristan sat round me in a circle, smoking their long straight pipes and twinkling slowly over the thought of how King Solomon managed his wives; bits of wood and iron nails from his bed still lay scattered, they told me, on the mountain-top. But when it came to a closer .enquiry, none, it appeared, had ever been up there except a hairy old. mountaineer with wrinkled face, the village shikari for ibex, who seemed loath to describe the matter in detail, but said he would take us up either to the summit or to the pass below it. "We decided first to go up the little valley where the warm stream gushes out that was made for the Queen of Sheba, and whither people still ride a three or four days' journey from all the lands around to be healed. And from there we would climb the walls of the Throne, and perhaps its very summit, but at any rate we would cross its great buttress and make our way into an engagingly blank bit of country on its eastern side. This great buttress wall runs unbroken and only dipping slightly from the Throne itself to a pass above the Seh Hizar which leads to Daku in the jungle, and between these two points there is only one high col a little north of the mountain, which is possible though difficult for mules. "Aziz and The Refuge of Allah denied its existence, having no wish to go east of their own country; but one is not bred in hills for nothing, and die shikari disclosed the pass of Kalau just where I ex- pected to find it. Here, then, after our visit to the watering [288]