The Throne of Solomon way down the poles and just covered my bed, keeping off water though not dampness, and giving me a useful shelter for dressing when no other was available. *Aziz and the Refuge now arranged it as snugly as possible for the night, while I sat with my collar turned up in the rain, wondering why on earth I was there when I had a comfort- able home of my own. I remembered my godfather who, being asked by some enthusiast what his thoughts were during lonely nights in the beauty of the mountains answered: " I usually think: Why the devil did I come?" Presently a fire was enticed into life in our enclosure. There was no wind, only a gentle dropping of water which fell harmlessly on the men's skaulars, as they moved about attending to the straying mules in the dusk. They looked scarcely human in those stiff felt things in the gathering night. Having warmed myself with hot tea I undressed quickly, put my clothes under my pillow to keep them dry, slipped into a loose fur lining and felt happy again. As for 'Aziz and the Refuge, they wrapped themselves in a shaular and a Mazanderani carpet respectively, and were asleep on the ground in no time. The Throne of Solomon Next morning a rim of big drops hung from the suspended edge of my tent like a fringe and, peering out from beneath it, I looked on to a grey world apparently dead. A few motion- less heaps of greyness among the stones was all one saw of the visitors to the watering resort. Presently a faint stir began among them. The women, their cotton rags and ballet skirts very limp after the wet night, began to move about and seek the stream of water. A slight morning breeze brought life into the air. And when the sun rose over the mountain-side, the Caspian sea mist broke and vanished. It comes up, they [294]