Pottery from a grave long eyelashes while I turned over in my hands two pots and a bronze spear-head from the grave. These were obviously very ancient, and people who are good at dating such objects have since told me that they probably belonged to somewhere about 1500 B.C., and that they are similar to other objects found near the south-west corner of the Caspian. The two pots were made of grey earthenware, with a decoration of lines and small circles scratched upon them, and very good in shape. The spear-head was bronze, the tip broken off, probably for ritualistic purposes: it had been found lying on the breast of the skeleton, while the pottery stood at its head* Other graves, they said, might probably be found in the same place—the valley of Rashak we had passed the day before, some way from where it opens into the plain. There was no getting them to dig, however, as the laws on this point have become very stringent in Persia. An hour or so went over the bargaining, interspersed with glasses of tea. When the two principals appeared to reach a deadlock, friends and retainers took up the controversy and set the negotiations going again. I finally parted with two tomans (45.), and a procession formed to carry the objects in triumph to my room. After this I managed to escape and was allowed to wander through that most delightful of villages whose houses are all embowered in walnut and firuit trees, and whose main street is but a narrow earth track beside the rippling loveliness of the river. Blotches of sunlight filtered through shade almost as green as the leafy canopies that caused it; agreenluxuriance flung itself over the fences of the little gardens; and the bright colours and many beads and bangles which the Kurdish women love made them to look as gay as butterflies against their whitewashed walls, where they sat spinning on benches built to run along the outside of the houses, in the manner of old Italian palaces*