The Throne of Solomon any kind on any one of them, but a running or geometric pattern, and often the slabs at head and feet rose in their centre to a stone hump, evidently typical of this region, since I came across the same thing later at Joistan in Talaghan. New graves too were here, for the place is still used, and a box of Qurans for the congregation stood in the porch of the chapel: but we found no inhabitants except the birds, who felt themselves at home, and three Kurdish lads who presently materialized out of nowhere to look through my glasses, and took me a few hundred yards over the stubble to where another carved tomb lay out in the open. The hillside is covered with them over a great area, including Shahri and Kiviter, and the ridge north of it which they call Ikane; and there are remains of walls, now indistinguishable heaps, but once, the village people say, a great city rising up towards the ridge. Not a single tomb seen by them, the lads told me, had any script upon it. The elder of these boys could read and write: there was a mulla in Kiviter who taught him, and he had been for a short visit to Teheran. He would like to leam English, he said: did I think he could do so in six months? This keen adventurous Kurdish mind is a pleasure to meet, so different from the peasant's apathy of the plains. Truly the world belongs to the hillmen. Rather late in the afternoon, though the exact time is un- certain since my watch now went on strike altogether, we left our sanctuary and continued downhill over wide natural terraces scattered with thorny bushes till we came into the valley: then crossing a little ravine full of acacia thickets we climbed in dusk to the village of Baude, where we hoped to spend the night. Silence met us even before we entered among its dozen or so of houses. Not a soul was to be seen. In the last daylight the fenced gardens shone with a careless luxuriance, tossing [330]