The Throne of Solomon then looking still like a titanic impossible labour. O carved tombstones here and there show that this was an ancier well-trodden way; they were being used for the new road, ar. there are probably none left in sight by now. We got tired of rocks upon rocks; they rose in chaos froi the very water's lip where our path cut its way on nanxr ledges; only here and there, in some widening amphitheati of the river bed, small villages crowded with their tree Their ripe white mulberries were sweet for the picking as w passed, not pausing. This barren landscape grew wilder as the daylight faded piled up like a discordant orchestra in fierce confusion, it ha< none of the mighty serenity of the higher hills. But at last with dusk falling, we opened out on a wide bend, and sav Varian in groves of trees and orchards through which the rive: flowed unconstricted, catching last sunset gleams. We asked for lodging, and were taken to a garden full oj fruit trees and a small house with three good rooms raised on a terrace, where carpets were soon spread. A dish of grapes and pears was brought me, first fruits of the warmer plains, and we were told that our last stage next day would be made along the level surface of the new motor road. Some way up the valley, at a village famous for its weavers, we had stopped to bargain for one of the woollen covers they caHjajims. *Aziz had shouted casually over a garden wall, and the thing was produced, its many-coloured stripes and close texture approved of after expert handling by the men, and the negotiations carried on half-way down to Varian, with various refusings, handings back and re-takings of die object, and returns of its owner back to his village and down again after us. Now the cover, of which I was very proud, was produced for the approval of the assembled ladies of Varian, who had gathered to call on me. They instantly rose and departed, and [352]