t^c^fc^t«^t^c^t^t^t^t^ EX-KING OF AFGHANISTAN Visitors to dinner, seeing the snapshots and concealing yawns over the endless descriptions common to travellers, uttered the usual polite noises of surprise and mild horror at the world wanderers' exposing themselves to so great a danger. Amanullah changed even that. Very soon the board was removed, and another, larger and more noticeable, took its place. It read, in less direct and less menacing language : " TRAVELLERS TO AFGHANISTAN ARE ADVISED THAT ON NO ACCOUNT MUST THEY CROSS THIS BARRIER UNLESS THEIR VISAS ARE IN ORDER." The anti-climax was complete. Afghanistan was open to the world. The veil of mystery was torn away. The glamour was gone. No doubt very soon the travel agencies would be advertising a glimpse of the sacred tombs of the Amirs for the benefit of world travellers, and a few well-arranged hold-ups on the rocky road from British India into the heart of Afghanistan. There came a Proclamation from the King stating in bald terms that permission to cross the Frontier could be gained merely by the securing of a visa. Travellers were encouraged, in theory at any rate, and the new pro- grammes for the rebuilding of the main roads received due prominence. " The Gates of Afghanistan are open," said the officials in the various capitals of the world. "The King has secured peace in his land, and is inviting foreigners to see for themselves the progress that has already been made in the amenities of his State." The mullahs realised that their exclusive and privi- leged reign over the destinies of their people was doomed. Already they began subterranean campaigns of protest. 79