AMANULLAH walls of the Palace itself, there would soon rage the mob that began the end of this strange chapter of Eastern history. Up and up we went, looking over the precipices and skirting the outer ridges of the road as we went. The road was well engineered, but still the surface was appalling, and the back-seat passengers had their songs choked in their throats if they ever contemplated another burst of high spirits. There were more fords and bridges, and more than once the driver had to force his way over obstructions, where the road-menders were clearing away landslips and huge boulders that had fallen down the cliff-side. It grew cooler every minute, until, at the top of the plateau we had been mounting, a keen wind blew across the road, delightful and invigorating. We stopped the car for water, at one of the springs at the side of the road, indicated by a notice board that Amanullah had been at pains to erect for motorists. Towards noon we stopped again, this time at the command of a huge, signalling figure in the centre of the road. We saw him from some way off, on the down slope of a long gradient. He seemed strangely clad from a distance. And as we got nearer, I saw that he was a European, very tanned and swarthy, with the unmis- takable features of an Italian. He was dressed in mechanic's clothes, with the addition of Afghan top-boots. His hands were oily and his face was begrimed and sweating. When he had halted us, he climbed on to the running-board and bade us drive down the hill. Then we saw his trouble. A huge military transport van, with the mark of an Italian firm on its bonnet, but the Afghan Army marks on its flank, was at the side of the road, its bonnet open and the legs of another mechanic, similarly clad, appearing from the 186