EX-KING OF AFGHANISTAN than was the case at Dacca. But naturally enough, this being near the capital, the price was higher. Twenty rupees it cost me, and we chugged through to the long straight road that led to the old gates of the city. The road was chock-a-block with farm carts returning to Kabul for the night. They were loaded up with grain and other goods, and the poor bullocks strained and stumbled under the weight and the rain of blows that fell on their heads. The dusk was filled with the ghastly thud of stout staves on the bowed heads of the beasts as the carts rumbled on great wooden wheels into the city, carving a rut in the soft road as they went. They swayed unsteadily, the course of the labouring teams diverted by the methodical tail-twisting that urged them on. " Ai ! " called the drivers, sitting on the poles and reviling their beasts with the lurid wit of the East. " Ai ! Ai ! " The thuds provided a fiendish chorus into Kabul. It was nearly dark when we ran through the old gate in the battlements, and old Bala Hissar, the ruined fortress, was only a dim shape. The lights were up in the city, and the bazaar was swarming with people. We kept out of the inner city, however, and encircled the town on a new, rutty road that was wide and provided with pavement stones. Our first stop, after depositing the jubilant and grateful ballast passengers near the city, was the British Legation. I stopped the car outside the gate and presented my- self to the guardroom. The tall cavalry trooper with the ink-black beard saluted, and let me in. From there I was escorted to an office of the Legation* A young secretary to the Legation, in civilian clothes, came out of his room. " Hello," he greeted me. ** You're not supposed to be here, you know. The wires have been buzzing with 141