EX-KING OF AFGHANISTAN boundary line between two worlds. There met the incoming traders from the hills and the modernised shopkeepers and merchants of old Kabul. That was an arena where two ages met and st ared in wonder. Down the long road from the north, there would come a daily procession of caravan traders. They would sit astride their lean-shanked ponies, with their rifles aslant over their broad shoulders. Their saddles were heaped rugs and pads of leather. There was coloured work in their harness, and heavy iron stirrups, with protective skins to keep the cold of winter from their shanks. Their puggarees were voluminous and generous. Their waistcoats gaudy and loose, trousers of white hanging down in wide folds to their green and red and yellow sandals. They would rein in their ponies and stare at the new KabuL At the policeman at the crossroads, in a smart new cap of modern design, jacket, puttees, and — wonder of all — boots. They would spare a glance for the burly Russian Air Force mechanics, perpetually sitting in the garden of the hotel. They would look at electric lights, paved streets, and wide avenues and new shops, showing advertisements of new Western products, with the eyes of the unbelieving. Was this the new Kabul of which they had heard ? The travellers were not lying for once, then ! Then they would kick their ponies into a trot, call to their laden mules, and stare fiercely ahead as they made their way to the old city. Even then, they were not past their wonderment and their troubles. For the point-duty policeman would shout and revile them. He would stand in their way and call them dolts, louts, ignorant animals. Did they not know that in modern Kabul traffic must keep to the left of the road ? They did not know. They had never 147