AMANULLAH Minister, was there too. She lounged on an iron seat, her blue eyes vacant, seeing perhaps the happy life of the city from which she had been transplanted for sver. Pierri and I sat down on the grass. " I think," said Pierri, " this is going to be gay." It was. The band started suddenly. At least half of the instrumentalists in the toy bandstand knew the notes. They played valiantly, striving to drown the sudden snorts of their companions. There were some blowings where there should have been suckings. There were some shrieks from those tortured brasses where there should have been plaintiveness and sobbings. Then we got into trouble again. The policeman was inclined to be pitying. Here were we, two apparent feringhe, who did not know that it is not civilised to sit on the grass. Here were we, two representatives of the West, setting a bad example to the East. The policeman was sure that in Western cities, from all he had been told, men in hats did not sit on the grass when there were seats. Why then should we seek to subvert the orders of the King who had been Westernised ? That much I read from his angry words, and his violent gesticulations towards those unbending, un- compromising iron seats. And, rather sheepishly, we got up and sat bolt upright in those seats. Modernity had won. For when a man has to leave the comfort of fresh green grass, the smell of earth, to sit on an iron park bench, then you may take it that there is an end for ever to the amenities of the untrampled virgin wastes of the world. We were supposed to be in one now* But Signor Pierri had been in " the forbidden laud " longer than L His fine delicate features registered only 162