CHAPTER XII

DOWN TO THE KHYBER PASS—THE TIDE BREAKS—AMANULLAH
TAKES ACTION—REVOLT IN THE PLAINS—HUMILIATION

IF it was difficult to obtain permission to visit
Kabul, it was almost impossible to leave. There
were more formalities and red tape. My passport
was once more decorated with the hieroglyphics of
Eastern officials. Once more the official stamp of the
British Legation pounded down on the pink sheet,
neighbour to that one which said: "Refused per-
mission to cross the Frontier into Afghanistan.35

I was to find, also, that I did not yet know the niceties
of conduct with officials. For, foolishly, I applied
formally at the Afghan department the next morning
for the precious seal which should give me leave to pass
through the gates of Kabul and down the road to
India.

The big office was shut. , Only one aged guardian of
its secrets slept in the porch. The office, he said through
an interpreter, was closed until the end of celebrations.
No business could be done.

My guide, an Indian who was in close touch with the
officials, suggested a call on the private residence of an
official. We walked up the road to his imposing villa.
The official, said the servants, was still abed, and could
not be bothered with visitors.

A rupee put that right. The dignitary was sent for.

We waited an hour* Then the official came in, still
sleepy and unwilling to put pen to paper during this week
of leisure. I explained my business.

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