(^t^fc^<<£W^<^<^<^<^<^^ AMANULLAH valley and before the dawn voice of the Iman had cried from the Mosque. Kabul was busy already, though, with shivering, cloaked figures, moving hurriedly about their business, driving cattle and horses out through the great stone gates. We were quick through the Customs barrier at the bridge. They were too sleepy and bored to bother this morning. We climbed up the hill in the full light of dawn, and I turned back once to see the old city. The morning mist lay heavy over the roof-tops. Smoke rose lazily from a thousand open fires in the serais. The day-long clatter and hum of the bazaar was beginning. From the parade ground there came the long note of a bugle, and already the rifle ranges were cracking with the chatter of machine-guns. It was still bitterly cold, as we turned the next loop in the climbing road. I had seen the last of Kabul, so soon to be enveloped, not with the smoke of dung fires, but with a cloud of more pungent and menacing nature. That driver could certainly handle a car. He pressed the old vehicle valiantly on, rattled it over the worst bits of the road, swung round hairpin bends, forced it crazily down the slopes, A hundred times we edged the loose stones off the road and down the precipice. We shaved the inside corners on a hundred turns, skidded and slid, swerved on a mad career to old tumble-down bridges, and ran into warmth. The Frontier gate at Landi Khana, mouth of the Khyber Pass, shut at sundown. It was just possible, however, to do the trip in a day providing that we had no accidents, and no arguments with the Customs gentry. With the employment of a little bakshish and not a little tact, I reckoned that we could get to Peshawar that night. Already, before we had run a couple of hours, I was visualising the comfort of the hotel in Peshawar, 190