EX-KING OP AFGHANISTAN mysterious, but for which the tribes had paid heavily in fines and in punishment. It was still a wild land. The laws of the British in the Khyber were still inflexible, and still prohibited movement among the soldiers after nightfall. The hills still held their fanatics, and the rifle shots, continuing some family feud, still echoed round the hills sometimes to interrupt the chatter in the British Messes. But the old Indian came with chicken and a huge pile of rice, and I started dinner, alone and very thirsty. The pillau was very dull, but quite edible. The old man seemed anxious to talk. He told me that it was very strange for a Sahib to stay the night at the Telegraph Office. I agreed. He told me that it was in fact quite indefensible for a Sahib to stay the night this side of the Frontier. I agreed. " There are badmashes still in the villages," he said. I expressed astonishment. " The Sahib should have gone to Peshawar, or to Landi Kotal," he said. Whole-heartedly I agreed. Then I heard the bugles calling " Lights out " in Landi Kotal, The notes ripped the silence of the hills. It was an eerie place, frowned on by the hills on either side. The Persians yawned and went to sleep. I saw to the driver, who was already curled up in the driving seat of the car, fast asleep. Then the old man came with a hurricane lamp and showed me the way upstairs. He had fixed up a ckarpqy in the room, and had evidently persuaded the Persian clerks to sleep in the next room. They must have been very crowded, but they had given me a room to myself. I spread out my bedding and went to sleep, waking to the chatter of the clerks just before the sun caine up. Then we pressed a few rupees on the old Indian,. started the car, and the gate lifted again to admit us 195