THE A B C

MDING TO HOUNDS

JOHNA.SEAVERNS

THE "A B C"

OF

RIDING TO HOUNDS

FOREWORD

It is not expected that the following
notes will be of value to experienced riders,
much less are they intended to represent
the lore of a great sport, but the writer
has found the suggestions they embody
useful in preparing his children for the
hunting field, and believes that their more
general observance would go far to dimin-
ish accidents and promote pleasure.

C. B. M.

Bernardsville
Oct. 1,1916

THE "A B C"

OF

RIDING TO HOUNDS

The first requisites of a satisfactory-
hunter are ability to jump safely and sub- Choice of
jection to the control of his rider. To turn a Mount
out on a vicious animal or one that may at
any time get the better of you is unsports-
manlike, because such a mount is a source
of danger not only to yourself but to the
whole field. If you are only a moderate
rider do not try a horse that is "above
you" because he goes well with experts.
Above all things, avoid a "lugger". With
such an animal, not only is needed strength Luggers
wasted, but the attention of both horse
and rider is diverted from the business to
which they should be attending. More-
over, a horse that is fighting for his head
when approaching a fence is unable prop-
erly to see and measure the obstacle, and
if his nose is in air when taking off, he
will not be in position to jump safely.

Good hunters are of many shapes and
1

Conforma-
tion

2 RIDING TO HOUNDS

sizes, but the characteristics which should
be looked for are a bony structure and
arrangement of muscles adapted for en-
durance and jumping. More specifically
a hunter should have a sloping shoulder,
high withers, a lean and clean neck and
a head properly set on. He should be
"light in front". Round, hard feet below
short cannons are a great advantage and
depth of girth is important, as indicating
good heart room. The back should be of
a type to keep the saddle well behind the
withers, leaving little space between it and
the rump.
Importance The value of a sloping shoulder is two-
?? ^^^P*°^ fold ; it enables a horse to raise his fore-
legs safely when "taking off" and absorbs
the shock of his weight on landing. A
horse is propelled solely by his hindquar-
ters, so that in jumping the function of
his hindlegs is to drive him into the air,
while all that is required of his forelegs is
that they should be well tucked up in pass-
ing the obstacle, and straight and sound to
land upon. By far the most important

Shoulders

RIDING TO HOUNDS 3

attribute in a hunter, other things being
equal, is that of intelHgence, for, after all,
the horse does most of the work. A safe
hunter does a lot of thinking, and learns
from experience. Many a rider has been
saved a fall by his mount's refusal to try
the impossible, or quick change of feet to
meet some unexpected difficulty.

Before mounting, examine your girths,
which in the case of a side saddle should
be further tightened after the rider is Mounting
seated. Also notice carefully your bits,
to see that they hang sufficiently low in the
horse's mouth to bear against the bars of
his jaw and not against his cheeks. Most
horses are "over bitted" either in weight
or severity. Look especially at the throat
latch, which can hardly be too loose.
If tight, it will not only distress your
horse, but in extreme cases, cause a rush
of blood to his head.

Ride to meet slowly not only to save
yourself and your horse, but not to excite ^^ Meet
the latter. Let him adjust himself to his
work and digest his oats. Nothing is

4 RIDING TO HOUNDS

worse form than to arrive flustered and
out of breath with your horse in a lather.
Pay your respects to the master and keep
your horse as quiet as possible until the
start. If the weather is cold, or he is very
excitable, walk him about slowly at a dis-
tance from other horses. Many good
hunters are nervous and difficult to handle
at this stage, but quiet down as soon as
they get imder way, unless in the mean-
while they have been allowed to get into
a fight. If your horse is inclined to kick,
the traditional danger sign is a bit of red
ribbon braided in his tail. Do not indulge
in loud talking or shouting, which has the
effect of exciting other riders' horses.

On the way to cover ride as quietly as
you can; do not crowd others, or follow
too closely restless or kicking horses. Do
On the Way ''^^^ "show off" by taking unnecessary
to Cover jvmips or gallops. As you ride along,
notice the country through which you
pass; learn to estimate distances and to
locate landmarks, such as bridges, streams,
taverns, church steeples, etc. Pay partic-

RIDING TO HOUNDS 5

ular attention to cross-roads, and note the
directions on road signs. Study the fen-
cing on both sides of the highway — its
character and the best points at which to
negotiate it, if necessary. You may cross
the same road at full gallop an hour later
when you will have little time to examine
banks and ditches. Do not crowd the
hounds or huntsmen, nor insist on follow-
ing immediately behind them. You can
easily make up this distance when hounds
take off.

When the hounds are off, devote your
whole attention to the business in hand. Full Cry
and use your brains. At all times look
ahead as far as possible, sizing up the
country, trying to foresee the direction
the fox will take, and endeavoring to
select independently of others, the best
and easiest line to follow. When the
hounds are not in sight, you can often tell
the direction they have taken by the ac-
tions of sheep or cattle at pasture, or by
that of crows circling in the air. A fox
prefers to run down wind.

6 RIDING TO HOUNDS

Keep out of the ruck, preferably near
the front but sHghtly to one side or the
other of the hounds. The advantage of
this is obvious ; you are more independent,
you can see better what is ahead of you,
and if the ground is soft, it will not be
roughened by horses which have preceded
you.

On entering an enclosed field, select at
once the point at which you wish to leave
it, and approach your fence at right angles
from as long a distance as possible, in-
stead of waiting until you are near it to
straighten out your horse. This enables
your mount to see and understand in
ample time what is expected of him, and
allows other riders to know your line and
not interfere with it.
Jumoinj^ Never, under any circumstances, take

in General a fence except at right angles. The rea-
son for this is that if you go at it straight
and vour horse hits, he has a chance to
recover himself on landing, or at the worst,
to stumble over on his knees and neck, —
whereas if he strikes it sideways, he is

RIDING TO HOUNDS 7

thrown on his flank with no chance to save
himself, and you will probably be crushed
under him.

In selecting your jump, pay more at-
tention to the "take off" and "landing"
than to the height of the obstacle. It is
easier for a horse to jump five feet from
a good "take off" than four feet from a
bad one. Light, Dust

The question of light is an important and Wind
one in jumping. Horses have not par-
ticularly good eyesight and jump more
safely with the light shining from behind.
To jump directly against the rays of a
setting or rising sun is to take a chance.
Strong shadows on the ground are often
mistaken for holes by horses and cause
them to shy.

To jump in a cloud of dust is also dan-
gerous. High grass, or other vegetation,
growing against a fence tends to make
a horse underrate its height, and also
makes a "blind" "take off".

On very windy days extra care is needed
in the field. Horses are peculiarly sensi-

8 RIDING TO HOUNDS

tive to wind, which irritates their nerves,
stiffens their muscles and makes their eyes
water, sometimes to the extent of inter-
fering with their sight.

As you approach your fence, rein in suf-
Jump ficiently for your mount to get his hind-

quarters well under him, so as to obtain
the necessary purchase for the jump, but
as soon as he "takes off" leave his mouth
entirely alone and do not tighten up your
reins until he has recovered his stride after
landing. Many books on riding advise
you to lean far back on approaching a
jump, but my experience is that it is better
to lean slightly forward and "throw your
heart over" ahead of you, because a horse
is quick to sense any indecision in the rider,
and may mistake your leaning back for
flinching. Avoid the practice of many
riders who give their horse a signal by
sound of whip, in jumping. A good
hunter can tell when it is best for him to
"take off" much better than you can. If
he knows his business, your signal will
merely distract his attention; while if he

RIDING TO HOUNDS 9

learns to rely on it, you will undoubtedly
make mistakes at times in giving it. In
general, the higher the jump, the slower
the approach should be to within a few
strides of it. From that point the horse
should be allowed to gather momentum.
A hand canter is the safest speed at which
to approach.

Never select a panel that is leaning p . ,
towards you, because if your horse strikes Rail
it it will rise and stiffen as he passes
over, whereas if the panel is perpen-
dicular, or leaning from you, any knock
will tend to lower and weaken it. Avoid,
if possible, a panel close to trees on the
further side, for should your horse carry
off the top bar, it may catch against the
trees and trip him after he has passed the
fence. One of the worst falls I ever saw
happened in this way to an experienced
rider. A panel with a fairly heavy and
straight top bar is to be preferred. Your
mount can see it better than a thin one
and is less inclined to take a chance at
breaking it. A rail that curves up-

10 RIDING TO HOUNDS

wards is naturally more dangerous than a
straight one or one curving downward, as
it heightens the jump by just so much
and is apt to deceive your horse when
gauging his jump by the average top line
of the fence.

Some of the worst accidents occur over
fallen or low fences. Be sure that your
horse sees these and realizes the necessity
of jumping them instead of attempting

Picket to step through them.

ences Picket fences are dangerous because the

light on them is often tricky and their top
line being irregular, your horse cannot
easily fix his attention on it.

Stone walls are not as difficult as they
look. They are seldom as high as wooden
fences. Being solid, they are easily seen,
and your horse can have no illusions as to
breaking through. If he has once rapped

Stone Walls one, he seldom does it again. The danger

of stone walls does not lie in their height

or solidit}^ but in the fact that you are

unable to see what is on the further side.

No special care is needed in jmnping

RIDING TO HOUNDS 11

hedges beyond making sure that they are

not wired and endeavoring to secure a safe Hedges

landing. Hedge jumping, however, tends

to make horses careless because they soon

learn that they can brush through with

impunity. In England hedges must often

be "flown" because flanked by ditches or

ox-rails, but this is seldom the case in this

country.

Watch out at all times for wire. Some
farmers run a single strand along the Wire
top of their fences. Such a wire often
escapes notice. If it is below the top rail
it can usually be disregarded if you are
on a safe hunter. In rare cases where
it becomes absolutely necessary to jump
wire, dismount and cover the top strands
with your coat or some other solid article
and jump at this point, after having care-
fully shown it to your horse. In Australia
where most of the fences are of wire, horses
are taught to jump the posts, but with us
few animals are sufficiently well trained
for this. If caught in wire, dismount at
once and quiet your horse, holding down

Water

12 RIDING TO HOUNDS

the loose strands with your feet, while
your horse steps out of them.

In approaching a water jump, the im-
portant thing is to choose firm ground on
which to "take off" and land. Unlike a
high jump, it should be taken at full or,
nearly full speed, in order to carry you
across. I think it is Whyte Melville who
pointed out that if the hounds try to take
a stream in their stride, whether they fail
or not, you are safe in attempting to jump
it, but if the hounds stop at the brink, and
wade in, you want to look out. On enter-
ing a river give your horse plenty of rein;
to pull in his head may cause him to roll
over, as his footing is necessarily precari-
ous, when his body is supported by the
water. If forced to swim leave his head
entirely alone.

In negotiating steep banks and hillsides.
Banks always point your horse straight down the

incline. This is partly for the same rea-
son that you cross a fence at a right angle,
and also because in going down hill, a
horse can slide on his haunches, bringing

RIDING TO HOUNDS 13

his hind feet far in advance. It is sur-
prising how steep a bank a horse can
descend in this manner. I have seen Ital-
ian Army officers take almost perpendicu-
lar banks. In jumping "on and off" give
your horse time to change its feet while
on the bank. Irish hunters do this natu-
rally, but others have to learn it by ex-
perience.

If bogged dismount at once to lighten
your horse, throw the reins over his head ^®^*
and standing in front of him but a little
to one side encourage him by voice, and
rein to extricate himself.

When riding through woods, accustom
your horse to seek naturally the open
spaces and to be guided by the manner Woods
in which you throw your weight. There
is no time to guide him by pulling his head
first one way and then the other. Inci-
dentally, nothing tends to make a horse
more handy and tractable, than schooling
him among trees. In passing under low
branches lean well forward, bringing your
head beside your horse's neck. Never lean

14 RIDING TO HOUNDS

back because by so doing you lose sight
of where you are going and you are liable
to be struck in the face when straightening
again in the saddle. Also, you can lean
much lower forward than backward and
can retain better control over your horse.
Do not think that you can easily ward off
dead branches. Do not catch branches in
your hand and let them spring back in the
face of the next rider. In passing through
narrow places move your legs well for-
ward of the saddle.

If your horse gets in difficulty on land-
ing after his jump or at other times, do
not hurry him or try to "hold him up" by
pulling on the reins, as some recommend.
Not only is this as foolish as trying to lift
yourself by your own boot straps, but in-
asmuch as a horse never puts his forefeet
in front of his nose, by pulling in his head
you restrict the action of his front feet as
he endeavors to get out of trouble. On
the contrary, leave the reins entirely loose,
leaning well back in the saddle so as to
lighten his load in front.

RIDING TO HOUNDS 15

In case of a fall, be sure to hang on to
your reins, not merely to keep your horse
from running away and leaving you in Falls
the lurch, but to prevent your animal from
kicking or rolling on you, for a horse is
comparatively helpless when his head is
under control.

If you are thrown free of your horse,
draw in your arms and legs, curve your
back and tighten your muscles. Make
yourself as much like a rubber ball as
possible. The art of falling has almost
as much place on the hunting field as in
football. A stiff hat — derby or silk — is a
great protection to the head.

Besides studying the country in front
of you, pay particular attention to the
character of the ground over which you
are passing. Remember that there is a
right and a wrong way of traveling over
every foot of ground, and that it is not
only when jumping that good horseman- .
ship is required. Ease your horse where YourMount
the going is heavy and speed up on solid
and smooth ground. At every oppor-

16 RIDING TO HOUNDS

tunity, bring your horse to a trot. It rests
him, not only because it is his natural gait,
but because his weight and yours is then
more evenly distributed on his feet. If
you come to a plowed field keep along one
of the fence lines, or if it becomes neces-
sary to cross the furrows, ride with them,
if possible, rather than diagonally over
them, going a little out of your way to do
this, if necessary. Watch out for holes
made by hedgehogs, rabbits and other
animals, and for soft or rough spots.
These can nearly always be distinguished
by the appearance of the ground. Loose
dirt always indicates danger, and a rank
growth of vegetation, or change in the
color of grass suggests bogs and other pit-
falls. In passing over a newly cut corn
field or burnt ground, be very careful of
your going. Many a horse has been lamed
by a sharp corn stalk or the charred stump
of a sapling.

Many accidents occur through turning
a horse suddenly at a side fence while
galloping along the road. In such cases
your horse's mind and attention are fixed

Jumping

RIDING TO HOUNDS 17

on the road before him and he has but a
short time and distance in which to pre-
pare himself for the jmnp. The safe plan
is to pull up, turn completely around in ^ ^_"5^^*
a direction away from the jump and then
put him at it slowly, starting from the
opposite side of the road.

While waiting at a check, do not allow
your horse to become chilled in a cold
wind. If you dismount and lead him
about, it will rest you both.

Never take a jump for the sake of
"showing off" or through jealousy. Re-
member that hunting does not exist for the
sake of jumping, but jumping is rather
an unavoidable incident to hunting. Do
not attempt an impossible obstacle, but on
the other hand do not shirk a difficult or
even dangerous jump if it comes in your
way, and you cannot avoid it without in-
terference with others, or loss of your own
line. Under these circumstances, never
pull back in order that someone else may
take the risk for you.

When changing direction at a canter
or gallop make sure than your horse is

Refusing

18 RIDING TO HOUNDS

leading with the foreleg towards which
you are turning, — otherwise he may cross
his feet and give you a dangerous fall.

If your horse "refuses", your first
thought should be to keep out of the way
of more fortunate riders. Do not ride
down the fence line cutting across the
paths of other huntsmen. Remember that
you have no right to try the same panel
again until everyone else wishing to take
it has had a chance. Before putting your
horse again at the jump, make up your
mind as to why he refused it the first time.
Perhaps he misjudged his distance or
stepped on a stone as he neared the fence,
or possibly he felt the twinge of some old
injury and saved you a fall by stopping
as he did. If it was laziness, a few good
cuts of the whip should wake him up, but
before punishing him make allowance for
nervousness and give him every chance to
try it again pleasantly. But whatever
your method, never allow him to go on
without jumping that fence. If necessary,
meet him half way by lowering the top

RIDING TO HOUNDS 19

bar, but on no account let him think that
he has conquered you. Never hit a "re-
fuser" on the head or in front of the
saddle.

A good hunter should follow his master
willingly when led. Nothing is more ag-
gravating than to be on one side of an
obstacle while your horse hangs obsti-
nately back on the other.

Avoid galloping, and, if possible, trot-
ting on macadamized roads. You can
usually find soft going on one side or the
other of the hardest highway. Remember
the old saying:

" 'Tis not the 'untin' and the jumpin'
What 'urts your 'orse's 'oofs,
But the 'ammer, 'ammer, 'ammer
On the 'ard 'ighway."

Do not treat your mount as if he were "Sympa-
a machine. Hunters steadily improve or thetic"
deteriorate with use, and in the long run Riding
are pretty much what their riders make
them. Kind and intelligent treatment will
be amply repaid. No one can become

W RIDING TO HOUNDS

really expert in the field who is not a
sympathetic rider, maintaining a constant
understanding with his mount. A horse
is extraordinarily sensitive to his rider's
mental condition and reacts at once to any
vacillation, anger or fear on the latter's
part.

As these suggestions are not intended

Good *^ ^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^ ^^* ^^ riding, except while

Hands hunting, little has been said about the

all important question of "good hands".
Whether they are a natural gift or can
be cultivated, has always been a subject
of controversy among huntsmen, but it is
well to remember that the essence of "good
hands" is to ride as if you were pulling
on a thread which you were afraid of
breaking, to keep a constant feel on your
horse's mouth, and never allow him to test
his strength against yours in a dead pull.
There is no truer saying than the old one
that "if you pull a post, it will pull you".
Riding with long reins is one of the
essentials of "good hands", and is a par-
ticularly valuable habit on the hunting
field. Melville says on this point:

RIDIN GTO HOUNDS SI

"A man with long reins not only affords
his horse greater liberty at his fences, but
allows him every chance of recovering
should he get into difficulties on landing,
the rider not being pulled with a jerk on
the animal's neck and shoulders, so as to
throw both of them down when they ought
to have gotten off with a scramble."

Be punctual at meets. Nothing is more
exasperating to the Master than to keep Manners
hounds and horses standing in the cold
while stragglers arrive.

The quiet rider is nearly always the
best. The essence of good sportsmanship
in this, as in other games, is a knowledge
of your business and consideration for the
rights of others. Do not crowd, and never
cross another person's line. To pass be-
tween a rider and the panel he is approach-
ing is the unpardonable sin, and is very
dangerous for yourself and others. When
jumping in single file, never allow your
own horse to "take off" until the horse
ahead of you has recovered after landing,
and regained Ms regular stride.

In passing through a self-closing gate,

RIDING TO HOUNDS

Rights of
Land-
owners

hold it open until the next rider cares for
it. If you are the last one through a gate,
it is your business to shut it, otherwise you
may be responsible for the loss of live-
stock at pasture.

When you come upon a hole or wire,
give warning to those following you by
raising your hand and crying " 'ware
wire", or " 'ware hole".

Never crowd the hounds. Even if you
do not ride them down by so doing, you
make them nervous and interfere with
their work. A woman once boasted to me
that she had finished "far ahead of the
hounds"! Be friendly and democratic on
the field, ever ready to do a kindness to
a fellow sportsman.

At all times be careful of the land over
which you are riding. Remember there
is no reason why a farmer should be par-
ticularly enthusiastic about your sport at
his expense, and in the long run the suc-
cess of any hunt depends upon the good
will of the land owners. It is true that
the actual damage done to land by hunting

RIDING TO HOUNDS 23

over it under proper conditions is infini-
tesimal, and objections of farmers are
for the most part purely sentimental. But
on the other hand, even the sentiments of
land owners are entitled to respect by-
trespassers! To cut up a sightly meadow
while it is soft, or to trample new sown
wheat is not only an injury to a farmer's
feelings, but a financial loss as well, while
the damage caused by the breaking of
fences is a very serious one, as you would
realize if you had to rebuild them yourself.
It is a good plan to pretend to yourself
the land you are riding over is yours, and
to treat it accordingly. If you have oc-
casion to negotiate with a farmer, deal
with him yourself and never through a
servant.

Be considerate of the Master. Remem-
ber he has many responsibilities and is try- xh M t
ing his best to provide you with good
sport. Don't bother him with silly ques-
tions or give him advice unasked. Keep
behind him at all times in the field, and
give him precedence over a jump.

24 RIDING TO HOUNDS

j^ The test for appointments in the field

is one of utility and good taste. Loose
ends of all kinds should be avoided, and
the outfit should be compact and business-
like. Flowers, ribbons, etc., are out of
place. Carry in your pocket a pen knife
and bit of string to mend a broken bridle
or stirrup leather. Pink coats have both
a sentimental and practical value, as they
not only add cheer to the landscape but
can be distinguished at a distance, and are
easier to locate than black or grey. If pink
is worn, it should always be accompanied
by a silk hat and black boots with light col-
ored tops. Gloves should be substantial,
very loose and turned back, unbuttoned
over the wrist, to permit the easy flexing
of the latter. Unless your horse is lazy,
a crop is better than a whip, as it can be
used to open gates, let down bars or pick
up a lost hat. Spurs are recognized as
part of full dress equipment, but I have
a strong prejudice against them, based on

bpurs observation and experience. Few riders

are sufficiently expert to avoid using them

RIDING TO HOUNDS 25

unintentionally at times, and their effect
upon a horse, unlike that of a whip, is to
make him flinch and contract his muscles.
To spur a horse when approaching a fence
is to do all you can to sour him, and I
have seen several good horses so ruined for
life in a single ride. The dread of being
pricked as they approach their jump
makes them nervous and they soon take
an inveterate dislike to fences, which they
associate with their own hurt.

In case of a fall the danger of being
dragged is much greater with spurs on
than without. So famous a rider as Mel-
ville says in his "Reminiscences" that he
could not recall a single instance where
a boot without spurs had failed to come
clear of the stirrup, and adds "I firmly
believe that nine out of every ten men who
come out hunting would be better and
more safely carried if they left their spurs
at home."

Sore backs spoil the usefulness of many
good hunters. There is no sure preventive
against galling, but many sore backs are

26 RIDING TO HOUNDS

caused by a misfitting saddle or the un-
even seat of the rider. Sit well down in
your saddle so as to balance your weight
over the center of gravity. Side saddles
are peculiarly apt to cause sore backs, par-
ticularly when the rider rises with a churn-
ing motion. To avoid this she should rise
as the horse brings forward his off fore-
foot.

The comparative merits of a side or
Side or cross seat for women in the hunting field

is a perennial subject of controversy. The
fact is that each has peculiar advan-
tages. The side saddle gives a much
firmer seat, and while a horse keeps his
feet, is therefore the safer; also most
women look better on side saddles. Al-
though some women ride astride grace-
fully, I have never yet seen a woman with
a really first class seat on a man's saddle,
and most women are so shaped that when
riding astride they exemplify the ugly
"tailor's" seat. On the other hand, a cross
saddle is lighter and easier on one's horse
and is far safer if the latter comes

Cross
Saddle for
Women

RIDING TO HOUNDS

down, both because the rider more easily
falls clear of her mount, and also because
she is in no danger of being crushed by a
sharp pummel. The modern apron skirt
and safety stirrup strap have practically
ehminated the danger of being "dragged".

Some horses look smart with hogged
manes, but many a good rider has been
saved a fall or has kept his saddle in place
during a steep climb by a friendly grip on
his horse's mane.

The proper place for grooms is in the
rear of the field and not beside or imme-
diately behind you. They should not take
a jump until every sportsman has passed
it. Nor have you the right to let them
school your unruly horses to the discom-
fort of the rest of the field.

A word as to "post mortem" hunting.
Nothing is more enjoyable than to discuss
with other sportsmen around a cheerful «Post
fire, the incidents of a fine run. Remem- Mortem"
ber, however, that the whole interest of Hunting
the run did not center in your own achieve-
ments, and that others— particularly those

Grooms

28 RIDING TO HOUNDS

who did not follow — are not carried away
with enthusiasm at learning the exact
height of that monstrous fence which you
took so cleverly, or eager as to the details
of how you outdistanced other riders!
No sport shows up the character of those
engaged in it better than hunting, whether
evidenced by their conduct in the field, or
by their af tertalk.