Jlibrar^ N THE CUSTODY OF THE BOSTON PUBLIC LIBRARY. SHELF N° ADAMS ACCOUNT OF AN EXPEDITION FROM PITTSBURGH TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, PERFORMED IN THE YEARS 1819 AND '20, ^ BY ORDER OF THE HON. J. C. CALHOUN, SECY OF WAR: TTNDER THE COMMAND OP MAJOR STEPHEN H. LONG. FROM THE NOTES OF MAJOR LONG, MR. T. SAY, AND OTHER GEN- TLEMEN OF THE EXPLORING PARTY. COMPILED BY EDWIN JAMES, BOTANIST AND GEOLOGIST FOR THE EXPEDITION. IN TWO VOLS.— WITH AN ATLAS VOL. I. VRILABELTRIA: H. C. CAREY AND I. LEA, CHESNtJT ST. 1823. J ** *7 ADAM$17^*\ EASTERN DISTRICT OF PENNSYLVANIA, to wit: BE IT Remembered, that on the twenty-ninth day of November, in the forty-seventh year of the independence of the United States of America, A. D. 1822, H. C. Caiiey and I. Lea of the said district, have deposited in this office the title of a book, the right whereof they claim as proprietors in the words following, to wit: " Account of an Expedition from Pittsburgh to the Rocky Mountains, performed in the years 1819 and '20, by order of the Hon J. C. Calhoun, Sec'ry of War, under the command of S. H. Long, IV! aj. Topi. Engrs. from the notes of Maj. Long, IVlr. T. Say, and other gentlemen of the Explor- ing Party, compiled by Edwin James, botanist and geologist for the ex- pedition. In two vols. — Vol.1. In conformity to the act of the congress of the United States, intituled " An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies, during the times therein mentioned." — And also to the act, entitled, " An act supplementary to an act entitled, " An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts and books, to the authors and proprietois of such copies during the times therein mentioned," and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing, engraving, and etching historical and other prints." D. CALDWELL, Clerk of the Eastern District of Pennsylvania- TO THE HONOURABLE J. C. CALHOUN, SECRETARY OF WAR, WHOSE LIBERAL VIEWS, ENLIGHTENED POLICY, AND JUDICIOUS MEASURES, WHILE THEY HAVE BEEN PROSECUTED WITH THE UTMOST CIRCUMSPECTION AND ECONOMY, HAVE AT THE SAME TIME CONTRIBUTED IN AN EMINENT DEGREE to the ADVANCEMENT of the NATIONAL CHARACTER OF THE UNITED STATES BOTH IN SCIENCE AND POLITICS; THESE VOLUMES ARE MOST RESPFCTFUI.LY DEDICATED BY THE AUTHORS, AS AN HUMBLE TESTIMOMIAL OF THEIR HIGH SENSE OF HIS TALENTS AND PATRIOTISM, AND AS A GRATEFUL ACKNOWLEDGMENT OF HIS INDULGENCE AND PATRONAGE. CORRECTIONS. Vol. I. page 4, line 12 from bottom, for Pelicanus read Pelecanus. " M 8, " 2 from bottom, for Alleghany read Jtionongahela. " " 24, last line of note, for Tours read Jour. " " 29, line 1 from top, for Abutibon read Abulilon. " " 30, last line of note, forthsee read these. " " 34, line 21 from bottom, for bitumiuous read bituminous. " " 36, line 9 from top, for considerable read a considerable. " " 38, line 5 from top, insert is. " " 43, line 17 from top, for more read shore. " " " line 2 from bottom, for review read renew. " " 50, line 2 from top, for 1816 read 1819. " " 69, line 8 from top, for fifth read sixth. " " 72, line 1 from top, for retured read returned. *« " 102, line 12 from top, for Chneij read Chenal. (et passim). " " 108, heading of Chap, for Isle au Vache read Fort Osage. " " 119, line 16 from bottom, for mere read were. " a 115, line 1 of note for Macroura read macrurus. " " 167, line 4 from top, for one read and. " " 285, line 15 from bottom, for progressing read progression. " " 298, line 3 from top, for exertions read excursions. " " 342, line 7 from top, erase yet it. " " 408, line 7 from top, for Alexandria read Chesterfield. Vol. II. " 15, line 16 from bottom, for sandy read shady. " " 26, line 8 from bottom, for Spediculariae read Pedicularia. " " 42, line 11 from top, for obstruct read impede. " •• 51, iine 16 from top, after Galeodes insert a period. " " 63, line 1 from top, for gigantus read giganteus. " " 89, line 2 from top, for Schranika read Schrankia. " " 136, line 3 from bottom for cirunata read circinata. " " 151, line 8 from bottom, for Oarks read Ozarks. u " 160, line 10 from bottom, for epidote chlorite read epidote, chlorite. " " 388, line 13 from top, after Dardenai erase Eye. '• " 320, line 13 from top, for southwestern read southeastern. " " 304, line 20 from top, for " Rigote de Bon Dieu" read " Rigollet de Bon Dieu." ** " 326 line 8 from bottom, for 50 read 5°. ,r " " line 2 from bottom, for Carraccas read Caraccas. " " 327 line 4 from bottom for like read unlike. " " 376, line 1 1 from bottom, for IX read X. " " 379, line 15 from top for X read XI. PRELIMINARY NOTICE. In selecting from a large mass of notes and jour- nals the materials of the following volumes, our de- sign has been to present a compendious account of the labors of the Exploring Party, and of such of their discoveries as were thought likely to gratify a liberal curiosity. It was not deemed necessary to preserve uniformity of style, at the expense of substituting the language of a compiler for that of an original observer. Important contributions of entire passages from Major Long and Mr. Say, will be recognized in various parts of the work, though we have not always been careful to indicate the place of their introduction. Those gentlemen have indeed been constantly atten- tive to the work, both to the preparation of the manu- script and its revision for the press. In the following pages we hope to have contributed something towards a more thorough acquaintance with the Aborigines of our country. In other parts of our narrative where this interesting topic could not be in- troduced, we have turned our attention towards the phenomena of nature, to the varied and beautiful pro- ductions of animal and vegetable life, and to the more magnificent if less attractive features of the inorga- nic creation. If in this attempt we have failed to produce any thing to amuse or instruct, the deficiency is in our- selves. The few minute descriptions of animals and plants that were thought admissible, have been placed as marginal notes, and we hope they will not be the less acceptable to the scientific reader, for being given in the order in which they occurred to our notice. Descriptions of the greater number of the animals and plants collected on the Expedition, remain to be given. These may be expected to appear from time to time, either in periodical journals or in some other form. Not aspiring to be considered historians of the re- gions we traversed, we only aimed at giving a sketch true at the moment of our visit, and which, as far as it embraces the permanent features of nature, will we trust, be corroborated by those who shall follow our steps. Much remains to be done not only on the ground we have occupied, but in those vast regions in the interior of our continent, to which the foot of ci- vilized man has never penetrated. We cannot but hope, that the enlightened spirit which has already evinced itself in directing a part of the energies of the nation, towards the development of the physical re- sources of our country, will be allowed still farther to operate; that the time will arrive, when we shall no longer be indebted to the men of foreign countries, for a knowledge of any of the products of our own soil, or for our opinions in science. We feel it a duty incumbent upon us, to acknowledge our obligations to many distinguished individuals both 3 military and scientific, and particularly to several mem- bers of the Philosophical Society of Philadelphia, for their prompt offers of any aid in their power to con- tribute towards advancing the objects of the expedition at its commencement. We are indebted more espe- cially to Professors James, Walsh, and Patterson, to Dr. Dewees and Mr. Duponceau: each of whom fur- nished a number of queries, and a list of objects, by which to direct our observations. These we found eminently useful, and we regret to state that, with many of our manuscripts they were inadvertently mislaid, otherwise, they should have been published in this place, for the information of future travellers. An interesting communication from Messrs. Gordon and Wells, of Smithland, Kentucky, was received after the first volume had gone to press, consequently too late for insertion. As a farther introduction to our narrative, we sub- join an extract from the orders of the Honourable Secretary of War to Major Long, exhibiting an outline of the plan and objects of the Expedition. " You will assume the command of the Expedition to explore the country between the Mississippi and the Rocky Mountains." " You will first explore the Missouri and its princi- pal branches, and then, in succession, Red river, Ar- kansa and Mississippi, above the mouth of the Mis- souri." " The object of the Expedition, is to acquire as tho- rough and accurate knowledge as may be practicable, of a portion of our country, which is daily becoming 4 more interesting, but which is as yet imperfectly known. With this view, you will permit nothing wor- thy of notice, to escape your attention. You will as- certain the latitude and longitude of remarkable points with all possible precision. You will if practica- ble, ascertain some point in the 49th parallel of lati- tude, which separates our possessions from those of Great Britain. A knowledge of the extent of our limits will tend to prevent collision between our traders and theirs." " You will enter in your journal, every thing inter- esting in relation to soil, face of the country, water courses and productions, whether animal, vegetable, or mineral." " You will conciliate the Indians by kindness and presents, and will ascertain, as far as practicable, the number and character of the various tribes, with the extent of country claimed by each." " Great confidence is reposed in the acquirements and zeal of the citizens who will accompany the Expedi- tion for scientific purposes, and a confident hope is en- tertained, that their duties will be performed in such a manner, as to add both to their own reputation and that of our country." " The Instructions of Mr. Jefferson to Capt. Lewis, which are printed in his travels, will afford you many valuable suggestions, of which as far as applicable, you will avail yourself." It will be perceived that the travels and researches of the Expedition, have been far less extensive than those contemplated in the foregoing orders: — the state of the national finances, during the year 1821, having called for retrenchments in all expenditures of a public nature, — the means necessary for the farther prosecution of the objects of the Expedition, were ac- cordingly withheld. VOL. I. CONTENTS OF VOL. I. CHAPTER I. Page Departure from Pittsburgh. — Northwestern slope of the Alleghany Mountains. — Rapids of the Ohio. ------ I CHAPTER II. The Ohio below the Rapids at Louisville. — Ascent of the Mississippi from the mouth of the Ohio to St. Louis. 30 CHAPTER III. Tumuli and Indian graves about St. Louis, and on the Merameg. — Mouth of the Missouri. — Charboniere. — Journey by land from St. Charles, to Loutre Island. ------- 58 CHAPTER IV. Settlement of Cote Sans Desseiu. — Mouths of the Osage. — Manito Rocks.— Village of Franklin. 79 CHAPTER V. Death of Dr. Baldwin. — Charaton River, and Settlement— Pedes- trian Journey from Franklin to Fort Osage. - - - - 93 CHAPTER VI. Mouth of the Konzas — Arrival at Wolf River. — Journey from Fort Osage to the Village of the Konzas. - - - - - 108 CHAPTER VII. Further account of the Konza nation. — Robbery of Mr. Say's detach- ment by a war party of Pawnees. — Arrival at the Platte. 130 CHAPTER VIII. Winter Cantonment near Council Bluff. — Councils with the Otoes, Missouries, Ioways, Pawnees, &c. - - - - - -146 CHAPTER IX. Animals. — Sioux and Omawhaw Indians. — Winter residence at En- gineer Cantonment. - - - - - - -165 CHAPTER X. Account of the Omawhaws. — Their Manners, Customs, and religious rites — Historical notices of Blackbird, late principal chief. 201 CHAPTER XI. Further account of the Omawhaws. — Of their marriages. — Of infancy, and the relationship of parents and children. Their old age. 230 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XII. Page Diseases. — Medical and Surgical knowledge. — Drunkenness, and other vices. — Ideas of God, and a future state. — Superstition, and practice of the Magi. — Expiatory tortures. ... - 259 CHAPTER XIII. Death — Mourning for the Deceased — Physical Character — Senses — Manufactures and Arts — Domestic and Warlike Implements — War. 281 CHAPTER XIV. War. — Negociation for peace. — Revenge. — Self-esteem. — Hospitali- ty.— Mimickry 300 CHAPTER XV. Tribes and Bands — Fabulous Legends — Wit — Ninnegahe or mixed tobacco — Dances — Otoes — Migrations — Language. - - 323 CHAPTER XVI. Boyer's Creek — Visit to the Pawnees — Human sacrifices — Anec- dote of Petalesharoo — Appendix. — Animals — Indian language of signs — Indian speeches. -------- 344 CHAPTER XVII-. Journey by land from St. Louis to Council Bluff — Grand River — Plaius at the sources of the Little Platte and Nishnebottona — Departure of the Expedition from Council Bluff. • - - - 404 CHAPTER XVIII. The Platte — Desert Plains — Mirage — Arrival at the Rocky Moun- tains. -- 45fj EXPEDITION FROM PITTSBURGH TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. CHAPTER I. Departure from Pittsburgh— -North-Western slope of the Al- leghany mountains — Rapids of the Ohio. Early in April, 1819, the several persons constituting the exploring party had assembled at Pittsburgh. It had been our intention to commence the descent of the Ohio, before the middle of that month; but some unavoidable delays in the completion of the steam boat, and in the preparations neces- sary for a long voyage, prevented our departure until the first of May. On the 31st March the following instructions were issued by the commanding officer, giving an outline of the services to be performed by the party, and assigning to each individual the appropriate duties. " Pursuant to orders from the Hon. Secretary of War, Major Long assumes the command of the expedition about to engage in exploring the Mississippi, Missouri, and their navigable tributaries, on board the United States steam boat Western Engineer. " The commanding officer will direct the movements and operations of the expedition, both in relation to military and scientific pursuits. A strict observance of all orders, whether written or verbal, emanating from him will be required of all connected with the expedition. The prime object of the ex- vol. i. 1 2 • Expedition to the pedition*being a topographical description of the country to be explored, the commanding officer will avail himself of any assistance he may require of any persons on board to aid in taking the necessary observations. In this branch of duty Lieutenant Graham and Cadet Swift will officiate as his im- mediate assistants. " The journal of the expedition will be kept by Major Bid- die, whose duty it will be to record all transactions of the party that concern the objects of the expedition, to describe the manners and customs, &c. of the inhabitants of the coun- try through which we may pass ; to trace in a compendious manner the history of the towns, villages, and tribes of In- dians we may visit ; to review the writings of other travellers. and compare their statements with our own observations ; and in general to record whatever may be of interest to the community in a civil point of view, not interfering with the records to be kept by the naturalists attached to the expedi- tion. " Dr. Baldwin will act as Botanist for the expedition. A description of all the products of vegetation, common or pe- culiar to the countries we may traverse, will be required of him, also the diseases prevailing among the inhabitants, whether civilized or savages, and their probable causes, will be subjects for his investigation ; any variety in the anatomy of the human frame, or any other phenomena observable in our species, will be particularly noted by him. Dr. Baldwin will also officiate as physician and surgeon for the expedi- tion. Mr. Say will examine and describe any objects in Zoology and its several branches, that may come under our observa- tion. A classification of all land and water animals, insects, &c. and a particular description of the animal remains found in a concrete state will be required of him. " Geology, so far as it relates to earths, minerals and fos- sils, distinguishing the primitive, transition, secondary, and Rocky Mountains. Z alluvial formations and deposits, will afford subjects of inves- tigation for Mr, Jessup. In this science, as also in Botany and Zoology, facts will be required without regard to the theories or hypotheses that have been advanced on numer- ous occasions by men of science. " Mr. Peale will officiate as assistant naturalist. In the se- veral departments above enumerated his services will be re- quired in collecting specimens suitable to be preserved, in drafting and delineating them, in preserving the skins, &c. of animals, and in sketching the stratifications of rocks, earths, &c. a,s presented on the declivities of precipices. " Mr. Seymour, as painter for the .expedition, will furnish sketches of landscapes, whenever we meet with any distin- guished for their beauty and grandeur. He will also paint miniature likenesses, or portraits if required, of distinguished Indians, and exhibit groups of savages engaged in celebrat- ing their festivals, or sitting in council, and in general illus- trate any subject, that may be deemed appropriate in his art. " Lieutenant Graham and Cadet Swift, in addition to the duties they may perform in the capacity of assistant Topo- graphers, will attend to drilling the boat's crew, in the exer- cise of the musket, the field piece, and the sabre. " Their duties will be assigned them, from time to time, by the commanding officer, " All records kept on board the steam boat, all subjects of Natural History, Geology, and Botany, all drawings, as also journals of every kind relating to the expedition will at all times be subject to the inspection of the commanding officer, and at the conclusion of each trip or voyage, will be placed at his disposal, as agent for the United States' government. " Orders will be given, from time to time, whenever the commanding officer may deem them expedient. S. H. Long, Major U. S. Engineers., CommaJiding Expedition.'' n 4 Expedition to tht On the third of May we left the arsenal, where the boat had been built, and after exchanging a salute of twenty- two guns, began to descend the Alleghany, towards Pitts- burgh. Great numbers of spectators lined the banks of the river, and their acclamations were occasionally noticed by the discharge of ordnance onboard the boat. The impor- tant duties assigned the expedition rendered its departure a subject of interest, and some peculiarities in the structure of the boat attracted attention. We were furnished with an adequate supply of arms and ammunition, and a collection of books and instruments. On Wednesday the 5th of May, having completed some alterations, which it appeared necessary to make in our engine, and received on board all our stores, we left Pittsburgh and proceeded on our voyage. All the gentlemen of theparty except Dr. Baldwin were in good health, and entered upon this en- terprise in good spirits and with high expectations. Four- teen miles below Pittsburgh we passed a steam boat lying aground; we received and returned their salute, as is cus- tomary with the merchants' boats on the Ohio and Mississippi. At evening we heard the cry of the whip-poor-will;* and among other birds saw the pelicanus carbo, several turkey vultures, and the tell tale sandpiper. The spring was now ra- pidly advancing, the dense forests of the Ohio bottoms were unfolding their luxuriant foliage, and the scattered plantations assuming the cheering aspect of Summer. A few weeks residence at and near Pittsburgh, and sever- al journies across the Alleghany mountains, in different parts, have afforded us the opportunity of collecting a few observa- tions relative to that important section of country, which contains the sources of the Ohio. In the Alleghany river we found several of those little animals, which have been described as a species of Proteus, *Caprimulgus vociferus. Rocky Mountains. 5 but which to us appear . more properly to belong to the genus Triton.* * Triton lateralis. Say. Body and extremity above brown, with irregular black spots; tail much compressed, subacutely edged above and beneath, lanceolate; a black vitta from the nostrils passes through the eyes, and i9 dilated on the sides and becomes obsolete on the tail; a vertebral indented line, from the neck to the origin of the caudal carina, more faintly indented on the head; head somewhat rectilinearly attenuated from the anterior branchia, to the vici- nity of the nostril, and truncate or subemarginate before; nostrils minute; eyes very small, whitish, crossed with the lateral line of the bead; beneath pale flesh colour; chin and jaws to the branchia, and tail from the poste- rior feet, with the exception of the areola of the anus, coloured like the back; mouth moderate, angles beneath the eyes; lips covering the jaws freely, inferior lip with a duplicative each side, which is white and cover- ed by the superior lip; tongue free, fleshy, rounded, extending beyond the angles of the mouth; teeth, lower jaw in a single row, obtusely conic, small, rather distant; a few smaller ones near the angle, elevated on a slightly prominent portion of the jaw; superior jaw with a double series of teeth similar to the others, but rather smaller, an unarmed depression cor- responding with the elevation* in the lower jaw, and a few elevated teeth nearer the angle; throat with a duplicated cuticle; branchiae permanent. Legs short, weak, four toed. Total length 10 inches; from the tip of the nose to the vent, 6 1-2 in- ches. We caught this animal with the hook and line in the neighbourhood of Pittsburgh, but it is by no means so common there as the Salamandra Al-» leghaniensis of Michaux, or young alligator. The colour above is in reality pale, but it is rendered of a browr.ish ap- pearance by the very numerous confluent points of that colour, which near- ly cover the surface of the body; branchia bright red; peduncles colour of the body. Daudin informs us, that Schneider, in his history of Amphibia, describes an animal very similar to this, found in Lake Champlain, and which Daudin supposes to be the larva of Triton Alleghaniensis; Daudin however, is of the opinion, that the hind feet were mutilated, from the cir- cumstance of their having only four toes. The late Professor B. S. Barton had heard of this animal, and from the account he received, was led to regard it as a Siren. Finally, Dr. Mitchell has antoptically described the animal, in the 4th Vol. of Silliman's Journal, as a Proteus. Not supposing the lateralis to belong, strictly speaking, to either of these genera, and with a view to ascertain its real nature, we obtained permis- sion from the Academy of Natural Science, to open a specimen belonging to their cabinet, and which was brought from the Ohio by Mr. J. Speak- man. The result corresponded with our most confident expectations, showing that the number of its vertebrae is greatly inferior to that of the Proteus, and corresponding with that of the Tritons; and that the pseudo ribs were in an entire series, somewhat superior in proportional length and perfection of form to those of the Proteus, and resembling those of the Triton. It has therefore, a far more close alliance with the genus Triton, than with any other yet established. Several animals have been described, to which it is more closely relat- 6 Expedition to the The northwestern slope of that range of mountains, known collectively as the Alleghanies, has a moderate inclination towards the bed of the Ohio, and the St. Lawrence, which run nearly in opposite directions along its base. This moun- ed by the character of the persistent branchia, than it is to the well known types of the genus, of which the branchia disappear at the age of puberty. Of such animals the following may be instanced: The Axolotl of Mexico. Siren pisciformis of Shaw. Gen. Zool. The Tetradnctyla of Lacepede in the Ann. des. Mus. Vol. 10. The Siren Operculee of Beauvois in Philos. Trans, of Phila. Vol. 4. And possibly also, the Proteus JV*eo Ccesariensis of Professor Green — Jour. A.N. S. Vol. 1. These four or five species might with propriety be separated from the genus to which they are referrible in the present state of the system, and placed in a separate genus, the external characters of which will be the same as those of Triton, with the exception of the persistent branchia. Its proper station will doubtless be intermediate between Triton and Pro- teus, but far more closely related to the former. It may be proper to mention in this place, that the generic name Tri- ton, was applied by Laurenli to the Newts, long before Montfort made use of it in Conchology to designate the war conch of the ancient Ro- mans, and of the present inhabitants of Madison's island. We are indebted to Dr. Richard Harlan, for the following anatomical observations, on this singular animal. Alveolar margins of the maxilla? serrated, the spiculae pointing back- wards towards the esophagus. The esophagus very large, like that of the serpents, gradually expanding as it descends to form the stomach, which again contracts at the commencement of the intestinal tube; the lining membrane of the esophagus and stomach, thrown into longitudinal folds, which were continued throughout the intestines; which tube undergoes several enlargements in its course, giving it a sacculated appearance si- milar to the alimentary canal of the alligator: in the animal under consi- deration, they form several convolutions previous to their termination into the cloaca; the stomach contaiued an earth worm. The mesentery transpa- rent, displaying a number of very large lacteals, which in the present in- stance, were filled with coagulated chyle. Length of the intestines 10 in- ches. The ovary is of considerable size, of an oblong figure, lying close to the vertebrae, and opening by a straight duct into the posterior part of the cloaca. Liver very large, and apparently (but not certainly) discharged its contents into the stomach. Lungs, consist of two long membranous bags, which run the whole length of the abdomen, anteriorly to the stomach and intestines; the opening of the larynx scarcely large enough to admit a pin's head; the lungs resemble two long air bags, more than a true pulmo- nary apparatus; the cartilaginous laminae of the branchia, three in num- ber, attached superiorly to the integuments over the cervical vertebrae, converging together beneath or anteriorly, and are attached to a cartilage, answering to the os hyoides; the heart, which was extremely small, con- sisted apparently of one auricle, and one ventricle, the aorta soon bifur- cated, sending one branch to each pulmonary apparatus to be intimately ramified upon the branchia, resembling so far the circulation of fishes, and Rocky Mountains. 7 tain chain extends uninterrupted along the Atlantic coast, from the Gulf of St. Lawrence southwest to the great alluvial formation of the Mississippi. It crosses the St. Lawrence at the rapids above Quebec, and has been supposed to be connected as a spur to a group of primitive mountains occu- pying a large portion of the interior of the continent, north of the great Lakes.* An inspection of any of the late maps of North America, will show that this range holds the se- cond place among the mountain chains of this continent. All our rivers of the first magnitude have their sources, either in the Rocky Mountains, or in elevated spurs, projecting from the sides of that range. The largest of the rivers, flowing from the Alleghanies, is the Ohio ; and even this, running al- most parallel to the range, and receiving as many, and, with a few exceptions, as large rivers from the north as from the differing from the amphibia, in which there is either a double or mixed circulation. Olfactory apparatus similar to that of fishes, viz; a small aperture near the extremity of the snout, leads into a cavity or cut de sac, lined by a de- licate membrane, plentifully supplied by the fibrillse of two slender olfac- tory nerves, which go off from the anterior end of each lobe of the cere- brum. The brain is of an oblong figure, the cerebrum is formed of two lobes, the cerebellum of one lobe situate directly posterior, not much thicker than the medulla oblongata. The optic nerves, which were large in proportion to the organs of vision, took their origin in a very unusual manner On either side of the medulla oblongata, is given off a large nerve which proceeds forwards and outwards, and soon after it passes outside of the cavity of the cranium, it divides into two branches, the smaller goes to the eye, the larger is distributed to the superior maxilla. The eye itself is small, and the lens which was coagulated by the spirits, is about half the size of a pin's head, and of the texture of the lens of a fish when boiled. The number of vertebra? from the atlas to the last lumbar, is exactly nineteen, to the transverse processes of all of them, (after the two first is attached by a moveable articulation,) a small slender spicular of bone, or rib like process, about one-eighth of an inch in length, which at the same time, they give origin to the large muscles that move the body, offer no obstruction to the lateral curvatures of the animal when in motion, but as to appearance or function, are not to be considered as ribs. • The number of vertebras from the first sacral to the last caudal, is from twen- ty to thirty-five; tbey become exceedingly small towards the end of the tail; on the back part of the esophagus, exterior to the cavity of the cra- nium, is found on each side, a calcarious concretion, similar to that in the head of the shark. * Maclure. 8 Expedition to the south, seems in a great measure independent of it. From the most elevated part of the continent, at the sources of the Platte, and Yellow Stone branches of the Missouri, the de- scent towards the Atlantic, is at least twice obstructed by ranges of hills nearly parallel, in direction, to each other. Erroneous impressions have heretofore prevailed, respecting the character of that part of the country called the Missis- sippi Valley. If we consider attentively that extensive por- tion of our continent, drained by the Mississippi, we shall find it naturally divided into two nearly equal sections. This division is made by a range of hilly country, to be hereaf- ter particularly described, running from near the north-wes- tern angle of the Gulf of Mexico north-eastwardly to Lake Superior. Eastward, from this range, to the summit of the Alleghanies, extends a country of forests, having usually a deep and fertile soil, reposing upon extensive strata of ar- gillaceous sandstone, compact limestone, and other seconda- ry rocks. Though these rocks extend almost to the highest summits of the Alleghanies, and retain even there the hori- zontal position which they have in the plains, the region they underlay, is not to be considered as forming a dis- trict of table lands. On the contrary, its surface is varied by deep vallies, and lofty hills; and there are extensive tracts elevated probably not less than eight hundred feet above the Atlantic ocean. The north-western slope of the Alleghany mountains, though more gradual than the south-eastern, is, like it, divided by deep vallies, parallel to the general direc- tion of the range. In these vallies, many of the rivers, which derive their sources from the interior and most elevated hills of the group, pursue their courses for many miles, descending either towards the south-west, or the north-east, until they at length acquire sufficient force to break through the oppos- ing ridges, whence they afterward pursue a more direct course. As instances, we may mention the Alleghany river, which runs nearly parallel, but in an opposite direction, to Rocky Mountains. 9 the Ohio— the great Kenhawa, whose course above the falls forms an acute angle with the part below — also the Cum- berland, and Tennessee, which run a long distance parallel to each other, and to the Ohio. This fact seems to justify the inference, that some other agent than the rivers has been active in the production of the vallies between the subordi- nate ridges of the Alleghany. There appears some reason to believe that the rocky hills, along the immediate course of the Ohio, and the larger western rivers, have received, at least their present form, from the operation of streams of water. They do not, like the accessary ridges of the Alle- ghany, form high and continuous chains, apparently influenc- ing the direction of rivers, but present groups of conic emi- nences separated by water-worn vallies, and having a sort of symmetric arrangement. The structure of these hills, does not so much differ from that of the Alleghany mountains, as their form and position. The long chains of hills, which form the ascent to the Alleghany, on the western side, are based either on metalliferous limestone, or some of the inclined rocks belonging to the transition formation of Werner, and have their summits capped with the more recent secondary aggregates in strata without inclination, and greatly resem- bling those found in the plains west of the Ohio. It is not easy to conceive how these horizontal strata, unless origin- ally continuous, should appear so similar at equal elevations in different hills, and hills separated by vallies of several miles in width. If that convulsion which produced the inclina- tion of the strata, of the metalliferous limestone, the clay slate, and the gray wacke, happened before the deposition of the compact limestone, and the argillaceous sandstones, why are not these later aggregates found principally in the vallies where their integrant particles would be supposed most readily to have accumulated? On the other hand, if the secondary rocks had been deposited previous to thai suppos- ed change, how have their stratifications retained the original vol. i. 2 10 Expedition to the horizontal position, while that of the transition strata has been changed? Most of the rivers which descend from the western side of the Alleghany mountains, are of inconsiderable magnitude, and by no means remarkable on account of the straightness of their course, or the rapidity of their currents. The maps accompanying this work, will, in the most satisfactory manner, illustrate the great contrast in this respect, between the district now under consideration and the eastern slope of the Rocky mountains. The Tennes- see, the Cumberland, the Kentucky, the Kenhawa and Alle- ghany rivers, though traversed in their courses by rocky dikes, sometimes compressing their beds into a narrow com- pass, occasioning rapids, and in other instances causing per- pendicular falls, yet compared to the Platte, and the wes- tern tributaries of the Missouri generally, can be consid- ered neither shoal nor rapid. Their immediate banks are permanent, often rocky, and the sloping beach covered with trees or shrubs, and the water, except in time of high floods, nearly transparent. The waters of the Ohio, and its tributa- ries, and perhaps of most other rivers, when they do not suspend such quantities of earthy matter as to destroy their transparency, reflect, from beneath their surface, a greenish colour. This colour has been thought to be, in some instances, occasioned by minute confervas, or other floating plants, or to result from the decomposition of decaying vegetable mat- ter. That it depends on neither of these causes, however, is sufficiently manifest, for when seen by transmitted light, the green waters are usually transparent and colourless. Some rivers of Switzerland, and some of South America which descend from lofty primitive mountains, consisting of rocks of the most flinty and indestructible composition, covered with perpetual snows, and almost destitute of organic beings, or exuvige either animal or vegetable, and whose waters hav<; a temperature, even in summer, raised but a few degrees above the freezing point, which circumstance, together with Rocky Mountains* 11 the rapidity of their currents, render them unfit for the abode of vegetable life, and is incompatible with the existence of putrefaction, notwithstanding the transparency of their waters, and the reddish, or yellowish colour of the rocks which pave their beds, have a tinge of green, like" the Ohio and Cumberland, at times of low water. It is well known that the water of the ocean, though more transparent than any other, is usually green near the shores; and on sound- ings, while at main ocean, its colour is blue. Perhaps the power which transparent waters have of decomposing the solar light, and reflecting principally the green rays, may have some dependence upon the depth of the stratum. If this were the case, we might expect all rivers, equally transparent and of equal depth, to reflect similar colours, which is not always the case.. In the southern part of Pennsylvania, the range called par- ticularly the Alleghany ridge, is near the centre, and is most elevated of the group. Its summit divides the waters of the Susquehannah, on the east, from those of the Ohio on the west. This mountain consists principally of argillite and the several varieties of gray wacke, gray wacke slate, and the other aggregates, which in transition formations usually in- tervene between the metalliferous limestone and the in- clined sandstone. The strata have less inclination than in the Cove, Sideling, and South mountains, and other ridges east of the Alleghanv. The summit is broad, and covered with heavy forests. Something of the fertility of the Mississippi valley seems to extend, in this direction, to the utmost limits of the secondary formation. The western descent of the Al- leghany ridge is more gradual than the eastern, and the in- clination of the strata, in some measure, reversed. It is pro- per to remark, that, throughout this group of mountains, much irregularity prevails in the direction as well as of the dip and inclination of strata. If any remark is generally applica- 12 Expedition to the ble, it is, perhaps, that the inclination of the rocks is towards the most elevated summits in the vicinity. Laurel ridge, the next in succession, is separated from the Alleghany by a wide valley. Its geological features arer in general, similar to those of the eastern ranges ; but about its summit the sandstones of the coal formation, begin to ap- pear alternating with narrow beds of bituminous clay slate. Near the summit of this ridge, coal-beds have been explo- red, and, at the time of our visit, coals were sold at the pits, for ten cents per bushel. In actual elevation, the coal strata, at the summit of Laurel-hill, fall but little below the summits of the Alleghany. Thus in traversing from east to west, the state of Pennsylvania, there is a constant but gradual ascent from the gneiss at Philadelphia, the seve- ral rocky strata occurring one above another, in the inverse order of their respective ages, the points most elevated being occupied by rocks of recent origin, abounding in the remains of animal and vegetable life. Near the summit of this ridge some change is observed in the aspect of the forest. The deep umbrageous hue of the hemlock spruce, the Weymouth pine, and other trees of the family of the con iferse is exchanged for the livelier verdure of the broad leaved laurel, the rhododendron, and the magnolia acuminata. Chesnut ridge, the last of those accessary to the -i.llegha- ny on the west, deserving the name of a mountain, is some- what more abrupt and precipitous, than those before men- tioned. This ridge is divided transversely by the bed of the Loyalhanna, a rapid but beautiful stream, along which the turnpike is built. Few spots in the wild and mountain- ous regions of the Alleghanies, have a more grand and ma- jestic scenery, than this chasm. The sides and summits of the two overhanging mountains, were at the time of our journey brown, and to appearance almost naked; the few trees which inhabit them, being deciduous, while the laurels '* Rocky Mountains. IS and rose bays, gave the deep and narrow vallies the luxu- riant verdure of spring. The Monongahela rises in Virginia, in the Laurel ridge, and running northward receives in Pennsylvania the Yoho- gany, whose sources are in the Alleghany mountain, oppo- site those of the Potomac. This river, like most of those descending westward from the Alleghany, has falls and ra- pids at the points, where it insterects Laurel-hill, and some of the smaller ranges. Along the fertile bottoms of the Alleg- hany river, we begin to discover traces of those ancient works so common in the lower parts of the Mississippi valley, the only remaining vestiges of a people once numerous and pow- erful, of whom time has destroyed every other record. These colossal monuments, whatever may have been the design of their erection, have long since out-lived the memo- ry of those who raised them, and will remain for ages, affect- ing witnesses of the instability of national, as well as indi- vidual greatness ; and of the futility of those efforts, by which man endeavors to attach his name and his memorial to the most permanent and indestructible forms of inorganic mat- ter. In the deep vallies west of the Alleghany, and even west of the Laurel-ridge, the metalliferous limestone, which ap- pears to be the substratum of this whole group of mountains, is again laid bare. In this part of the range, we have not observed those frequent alternations of clay-slate with this limestone, which have been noticed by Mr. Eaton and others in New England.* In its inclination, and in most particulars of external character, it is remarkably similar to the mountain limestone of Vermont, and the western coun- ties of Massachusetts. Many portions of the interior of the state of Pennsylvania, have a basis of this limestone. When not overlaid by clay -slate, and particularly when not in connexion with sandstone, the soils resting on the transi- * Geological Survey of Rensselaer conn ty. P. 11. 14 Expedition to the tion limestone, are found peculiarly fertile and valuable, having usually a favorable disposition of surface for agricul- tural purposes, and abounding with excellent water. The transition limestone is not, however, of frequent oc- currence westward of the Alleghany ridge. It appears on- ly in the vallies, and is succeeded by clay-slate and the old sandstone lying almost horizontally. The coal, with the ac- companying strata of argillaceous sandstone and shale, are, as far as we have seen, entirely horizontal. The country westward from the base of the Chesnut- ridge, has an undulating surface. The hills are broad and terminated by a rounded out-line, and the landscape present- ing a grateful variety of fields and forests is often beautiful, particularly when, from some elevation, the view overlooks a great extent of country, and the blue summits of the dis- tant mountains, are added to the perspective. Pittsburgh has been so often described, the advantages, and disadvantages of its situation, and the gloomy repulsive- ness of its appearance, have been so often and so justly por- trayed, that we should not think ourselves well employed in recounting our own observations. The Alleghany and the Monongahela at Pittsburgh, where they unite to form the Ohio, are nearly equal in magnitude ; the former, however, on account of the rapidity of its current, and the transparen- cy of its waters, is a far more beautiful river than the latter. Its sources are distributed along the margin of Lake Erie, and a portage, of only fifteen miles, connects its navigation with that of the St. Lawrence. About the sources of the Alleghany are extensive forests of pine, whence are drawn great supplies of lumber, for the country below as far as New Orleans. On French Creek and other tributary streams, are large bodies of low and ra- ther fertile lands, closely covered with forests, where the great Weymouth pine, and the hemlock spruce are intermix- ed with beech, birch, and the sugar maple. The great white Rocky Mountains. 15 orWemouth pine, is one of the most beautiful of the North American species. Its trunk often attains the diameter of five or six feet, rising smooth and straight from sixty to eighty feet, and terminated by a dense conical top. This tree, though not exclusively confined to the northern parts of our conti- nent, attains there its greatest magnitude and perfection. It forms a striking feature in the forest scenery of Vermont, New- Hampshire, and some parts of Canada, and New York ; ri- sing by nearly half its elevation above the summits of the other trees, and resembling, like the palms of the tropics, so beautifully described by M. De Saint Pierre, and M. De Humboldt, " a forest planted upon another forest."* The sighing of the wind -in the tops of these trees, resembles the scarce audible murmurings of a distant water-fall, and adds greatly to the impression of solemnity produced by the gloom and silence of the pine forest. In the southern parts of the Alleghany mountains, pines are less frequent, and in the central portions of the valley of the Mississippi, they are extremely rare. The Coal formation containing the beds, which have long been wrought near Pittsburgh, appears to be of great extent ; but we are unable particularly, to point out its limits towards the north and east. One hundred miles above Pittsburgh, near the Alleghany river, is a spring, on the surface oj whose waters, are found such quantities of a bituminous oil, that a person may gather several gallons in a day. This spring is most probably connected with coal strata, as are numerous similar ones in Ohio, Kentucky, &c. Indeed it appears reasonable to believe that the coal strata are con- tinued along the western slope of the Alleghanies with lit- tle interruption, at least as far northward as the Brine springs of Onondago. Of all the saline springs belonging to this formation, and whose waters are used for the manufacture * See Humboldt's Personal Narrative, page 46, vol. v. Also St. Pierre's Paul and Virginia. 16 Expedition to the of salt, the most important are those of the Kenhawa, a river of Virginia. Others occur in that country of ancient monu- ments, about Paint-creek, between the Sciota and the Mus- kinghum, near the Silver-Creek hills in Illinois; and indeed in almost all the country contiguous to the Ohio river. Wherever we have had the opportunity of observing these brine springs, we have usually found them in connexion with an argillaceous sandstone, bearing impressions of phyto- lytes, culmaria, and those tessellated zoophytes, so com- mon about many coal-beds. It appeared to us worthy of remark, that in many places, where explorations have been made for salt water, and where perpendicular shafts have been carried to the depth of from two to four hundred feet, the water, when found, rises with sufficient force to elevate itself several feet above the surface of the earth. This effect appears to be produced by the pressure of an serial fluid, existing in connexion with the water, in those cavities beneath the strata of sandstone, where the latter is confined, or escaping from combination with it, as soon as the requisite enlargement is given, by perforating the super- incumbent strata. We have had no opportunity of examin- ing attentively, the gaseous substances which escape from the brine pits, but from their sensible properties, we are induced to suppose that carbonic acid, and carburetted hydrogen, are among those of most frequent occurrence. The little village of Olean, on the Alleghany river, has been for many years a point of embarkation, where great numbers of families, migrating from the northern and east- ern states, have exchanged their various methods, of slow and laborious progression by landt for the more convenient one of the navigation of the Ohio. From Olean downward, the Alleghany and Ohio bear along with their currents fleets of rude arks laden with cattle, horses, household furniture, agricultural implements, and numerous families having all their possessions embarked on the same bottom, and floating onward Rocky Mountains. 17 toward that imaginary region of happiness and contentment, which like the " town of the brave and generous spirits," the expected heaven of the aboriginal American, lies always " beyond the place where the sun goes down." This method of transportation, though sometimes speedy and convenient, is attended with uncertainty and danger. A moderate wind blowing up the river, produces such swells in some parts of the Ohio, as to endanger the safety of the ark j and these heavy unmanageable vessels are with difficul- ty so guided in their descent, as to avoid the planters, sun- ken logs, and other concealed obstructions to the navigation of the Ohio. We have known many instances of boats of this kind so suddenly sunk, as only to afford time for the escape of the persons on board. On the 6th we arrived at Wheeling, a small town of Virgi- nia, situate on a narrow margin along the bank of the Ohio, at the base of a high cliff of sandstone. Here the great national road from Cumberland, comes in conjunction with that of Zanesville, Columbus, and Cincinnati, i'he town of Cumber- land, from which this great national work has received the ap- pellation of the Cumberland road, lies on the north side of the Potomac, one hundred and forty miles E. by S. from Wheel- ing. The road between these two points, was constructed by the government of the United States, at a cost of one million eight hundred thousand dollars. The bridges and other works of masonry, on the western portion of this road, are built of a compact argillaceous sandstone, of a light gray or vellowish white colour, less durable than the stone used" in the middle and eastern sections, which is the blu*; metallifer- ous limestone, one of the most beautiful and imperishable among the materials for building which our country affords. A few miles from Wheeling, a small but beautiful bridge, forming a part of this road, is ornamented with a statue of that distinguished statesman Mr. Clay — erected, as we were informed, by a gentleman, who resides in that neighbourhood, vol. 1. 3 18 Expedition to the In an excursion on shore, rear the little village of Charleston in Virginia, we met with many plants common to the eastern side of the Alieghanies; beside the delicate sison bulbosum, whose fruit was now nearly ripened. In shady situations we found the rocks, and evtn the trunks of trees to some little distance from the ground, closely cover- ed with the sedurn ternatum, with white flowers ful- ly unfolded. The cercis canasendis, and the cornus florida, were now expanding their flowers, and in some places oc- curred so frequently, as to impart their lively colouring to the landscape. In their walks on shore, the gentlemen of the party, collected great numbers of the early flowering her- baceous plants, common to various parts of the United States. An enumeration of a few of the species most commonly known, with the dates of their flowering, is subjoined.* * April 3d. Dentaria laciniata. Lamium amplexicaule. Draba vema. Poa anua. Alsine m^dia. Houstonia cerulea. Saxifraga virginiensis. 4th- Anemone hepatica. Bepatica triloba of Pursh. Flowers varying from blue to white. Alnus serulata. Carpinus Americanus. Satyrium re- pens, root perennial. 9th. Collected in flower from the south-west side of the Ohio, San- guinaria canadensis. Hydrocotile bipinnata; root small and round, with small tubers attached to the fibre like radicles, flowers white. Poa brevi- folia. 13th. Glehoma hederacea; this plant covers not only the low grounds, but the wildest hills, particularly in northern exposures. Is it native? 24th. Pulmonana Virginica, this is a predominant plant on the islands, as well as along the shores of the Alleghany on both sides. Epigaea re- pens. Phlox aivaricata. 25th. Corydahs cucullaria. Trillium erectum, flowers varying from dark purple to white. Anemone thalictroides. Carex oligocarpa. Gnaphalium plantagioeum. Potentilla sarmentosa. Obolaria virginica. Acfersaccbannuro, and A. dasycarpum, still flowering. Also the Celtis occidentalis. Ulmus Americana, and Planera aquatica, past. 27th. Veronica peregrina, and Ranunculus celeratus; both common in the wildest situations and apparently native. 28th. Stellaria pubera. Turritis laevigata. Arabis lyrata. Viola pu- bescens. Ranunculus hirsutus- Thalictumdioicuni. Cercis canadensis. Cerastium vulgatum. 30th. Deutana diphylla. Trillium sesile. Mitella diphylla. Delphini- um tricorne. Arabis thaliana. Caulo^hillum thalictroides. May 1st. Carpinus wnericanus. Vicia cracca. Ranunculus abortivus. Suifraga Pennsylvania. Uvulaiia ,randiflora. Ph. 3d. Geranium maculatum. Apple tree flowering. Veronica officinalis Dr. Baldwin^ Diary. Rocky Mountains. 19 The scenery of the banks of the Ohio, for two or three hun- dred miles below Pittsburgh is eminently beautiful, but is defi- cient in grandeur and variety. The hills usually approach on both sides, nearly to the brink of the river ; they have a rounded and graceful form, and are so grouped as to pro- duce a pleasing effect. Broad and gentle swells of two or .three- hundred feet, covered with the verdure of the almost unbroken forest, embosom a calm and majestic river, from whose unruffled surface, the broad out line of the hills is re- flected with a distinctness, equal to that with which it is im- printed upon the azure vault of the sky. In a few instan- ces near the summits of the hills, the forest trees become so scattered, as to disclose here and there a rude mass, or a perpendicular precipice of gray sandstone, or compact lime- stone, the prevailing rocks in all this region. The hills are however usually covered with soil on all sides, except that looking towards the river, and in most instances are susceptible of cultivation to their summits. These hilly lands are found capable of yielding, by ordinary methods of culture, about fifty bushels of maize per acre. They were originally covered with dense and uninterrupted forests, in which the beech trees were those of most frequent occur- rence. These forests are now disappearing before the in- dustry of man ; and the rapid increase of population and wealth, which a few years has produced, speak loudly in fa- vor of the healthfulness of the climate, and of the internal re- sources of the country. The difficulty of establishing an in- disputable title to lands, has been a cause operating hitherto to retard the progress of settlement, in some of the most fer- tile parts of the country of the Ohio; and the inconveniences resulting from this source, still continue to be felt. On the 7ch, we passed the mouth of the Kenhawa, and the little village of Point Pleasant. The spot now occupied by this village, is rendered memorable, on account of the recollections connected with one of the most affecting inei- 20 Expedition to the dents, in the history of the aboriginal population. It was here that a battle was fought, in the " autumn of 1774, be- tween the collected forces of the Shawanees, Mingoes, and Delawares on one side, and a detachment of the Virginia militia, on the other. In this battle, Logan, the friend of the whites, avenged himself in a signal manner, for the inju- ries of one man, by whom all his women and children had been murdered. Notwithstanding his intrepid conduct, the Indians were defeated, and sued for peace; but Logan dis- dained to be seen among the suppliants. He would not turn on his heel to save his life. " For my country," said he, " I rejoice in the beams of peace, but, do not harbor a thought that mine is the joy of fear. Logan nevr r felt fear. Who is there to mourn for Logan! Not one." This story is elo- quently related by Mr. Jefferson, in his u Notes on Virgi- nia," and is familiar to the recollection of all who have read that valuable work. In the afternoon of the 8th, we encountered a tremendous thunder storm, in which our boat, in spite of all the exer- tions we were able to make, was driven on shore ; but we fortunately escaped with little injury, losing only our flag- staff with the lantern attached to it, and some other articles of little importance. On the following day we passed Mays- ville, a small town of Kentucky. On our return to 1 hila- delphia, in 1821, we were delayed some time at this place ; and taking advantage of the opportunity thus afforded, we made an excursion into that beautiful agricultural district, southeast of Maysville, about the large village of Washing- ton. The uplands here are extremely fertile, and in an advan- ced state of cultivation. The disposition of the surface, re- sembles that in the most moderately hilly parts of Pennsyl- vania, and to the same graceful undulation of the landscape, the same pleasing alternation of cultivated fields, with dense and umbrageous forests, is added an aspect of luxuriant fer- tility, surpassing any thing we have seen eastward of the Alleghanies. Having prolonged our walk many miles, we Rocky Mountains. 21 entered after sunset a tall grove of elms and hickories; towards which we were attracted by some unusual sounds. Direct- ed by these, we at length* reached an open quadrangular area of several acres, where the forest had been in part cleared away, and much grass had sprung up. Here we found several hundreds of people, part sitting in tents and booths, regularly arranged around the area, and lighted with lamps, candles, and fires; part assembled about an elevated station, listening to religious exhortations. The night had now become dark, and the heavy gloom of the forest, rendered more conspicuous by the feeble light of the en- campment, together with the apparent solemnity of the great numbers of people, assembled for religious worship, made considerable impression on our feelings. As long as we remained among them, we observed no- thing incompatible with the most rigid requirements of de- corum, nothing in ill accordance with the solemn grandeur of the scene, they had chosen for their place of worship. On the 9th May, we arrived at Cincinnati. Since our departure from Pittsburgh, Dr. Baldwin's illness had increa- sed, and he had now become so unwell, that some delay ap- peared necessary on his account ; as we wished also for an opportunity of making some repairs, and alterations in the machinery of the boat, it was resolved, to remain at Cincin- nati some days. Dr. Baldwin was accordingly moved on shore, to the house of Mr. Glen, and Dr. Drake was re- quested to attend him. Cincinnati is the largest town on the Ohio. It is on the north bank of the river, and the ground on which it stands is elevated, rising gradually from the water's edge. Compact limestone appears here, in the bed of the Ohio, and extends some distance in all directions. This limestone has been used in paving the streets, for which purpose its tabular fragments are placed on edge, a-s bricks are some- times used in flagging. The formation of limestone, to which this rock belongs, is one of great extent, occupying a large 22 Expedition to the part of the country from the shores of Lake Erie, to the southern boundary of the state of Tennessee.* It appears, however, to be occasionally interrupted, or over-laid by fields of sandstone. It abounds in casts, and impressions of ma- rine animals. An orthocerite in the museum of the col- lege at Cincinnati, measures near three feet in length. Very large specimens of what has been considered lignite, have also been discovered, and parts of them deposited in that collection. We saw here no remains of ammonites. Nu- merous other species, appear to be similar to those found in the limestone of the Catskill, and Hellebergh mountains. The soil, which overlays the limestone of Cincinnati, is a deep argillaceous loam, intermixed with much animal and vegetable matter. Vegetation is here luxuriant, and many plants unknown eastward of the Alleghany mountains, were constantly presenting themselves to our notice. Two species of iEsculus are common. One of these has a nut as large as that of the JEJ. Hippocastanum, of the Mediterranean, the common horse-chesnut of the gardens. These nuts are round, and after a little exposure, become black, except in that part which originally formed the point of attachment to the receptacle, which is an oblong spot three fourths of an inch in diameter, the whole bearing some re- semblance to the eye ball of a deer, or other animal. Hence the name buck-eye, which is applied to the tree. The several species of sesculus are confined principally to the western states and territories. In allusion to this circumstance, the indigenous backwoodsman is sometimes called buck-eye, in distinction from the numerous immigrants who are introduc- ing themselves from the eastern states. The opprobrious name of Yankee is applied to these last, who do not always stand high in the estimation of the natives of the south and * Drake's Picture of Cincinnati, page 64. To that work, Cramer's "Navigator" published at Pittsburgh in 1814, and Gilieland's "Ohio and Mississippi Pilot," we refer our readers for very minute, and, in gene- ral, very accurate accounts of the country along the Ohio. Rocky Mountains. 23 west. Few of these sectional prejudices are, however, to be discovered in Ohio, the greater part of the population here having been derived from New England. Cincinnati, which in 1810 contained 2,500 inhabitants, is now said to number about 12,000. Its plan is regular, and most of the buildings are of brick. The dwellings are neat and capacious, and sometimes elegant. The site of the town was heretofore an aboriginal station, as appears from the numerous remains of ancient works still visible. We forbear to give any account of these interesting monuments, as they have already been repeatedly described. On Tuesday, the 18th, the weather becoming clear and pleasant, Dr. Baldwin thought himself sufficiently recovered to proceed on the voyage; accordingly having assisted him on board the boat, we left Cincinnati at 10 o'clock. During our stay at that place, we had been gratified by the hospitable attentions of the inhabitants of the town. Mr. Glen was unremitting in his exertions to promote the recovery of Dr. Baldwin's health; to him, as well as to Dr. Drake, and several other gentlemen of Cincinnati, all the members of our party were indebted for many friendly attentions. Below Cincinnati the scenery of the Ohio becomes more monotonous than above. The hills recede from the river, and are less elevated. Heavy forests cover the banks on either side, and intercept the view from all distant objects. This is, however, somewhat compensated by the magnificence of the forests themselves. Here the majestic platanus attains its greatest dimensions, and the snowy whiteness of its branches is advantageously contrasted with the deep verdure of the cotton-wood, and other trees which occur in the low grounds. The occidental plane tree is, perhaps, the grandest of the American forest trees, and little inferior in any respect to the boasted plane tree of the Levant. The platanus orienta- lis attains, in its native forests, a diameter of from ten to sixteen feet, An American plane tiee, which we measured, 24> Expedition to the on the bank of the Ohio, between Cincinnati and the rapids at Louisville, was fourteen feet in diameter. One which stood, some years since, near the village of Marietta; was found, by M. Michaux, to measure 15. 7-10ft. in diameter, at twenty feet from the ground.* They often rise to an eleva- tion of one hundred and fifty feet. The branches are very large and numerous, forming a spreading top, densely cov- ered with foliage. Many of those trees, which attain the greatest size, are decayed in the interor of the trunk, long after the annual increase continues to be added at the exte- rior circumference. The growth of the American plane tree does not appear to be very rapid. It was remarked by Hum- boldt, that in the hot and damp lands of North America, between the Mississippi and the Alleghany mountains, the growth of trees is about one fifth more rapid than in Eu- rope, taking for examples the platanus occidentalis, the lirio- dendron tulipifera, and the cupressus disticha, all of which reach from nine to fifteen feet in diameter. It is his opinion that the growth in these trees does not exceed a foot in di- ameter in ten years. f As far as our observation has enabled us to judge, this estimate rather exceeds than falls short of the truth. This growth is greatly exceeded in rapidity by the baobab, and other trees in the tropical parts of America ; a^o by the gigantic adansonia of the eastern continent,^; and equalled, perhaps, by several trees in our own climate, whose duration is less extended than that of those above mentioned. § The sycamore, or occidental plane tree has been cultivated for more than one hundred and eighty years in England, yet * Voy. a 1' ouest des monts Alleghany, 1.804. P. 93. f Pers Nar. Vol. I. P. 357. Philadelphia Edition. \ Salt's Abyssiuia, P. 49. Amer. Edit. § The cotton-wood tree is of very rapid growth. It has beenascerta jn- ed that one individual, in the term of twenty-one years, attained the height of one hundred and eight feet and nine inches, and the diameter of twenty and an half inches, exclusive of the bark. Barton's Supp. Med. and Phys. Tours P. 71. Rocky Mountains. 25 it does not appear to have become entirely naturalized there, as we are informed by president Smith that great numbers were killed by the severe frost of the winters of 1810-11. In America this tree is very widely distributed, and ex- tends northward beyond the forty-fifth degree of north lati- tude. In the fertile alluvial lands of Otter Creek, and other rivers which discharge into Lake Champlain, this tree at- tains more than one half the magnitude which it is seen to reach in the most prolific portions of the Mississippi valley: it appears, therefore, that some other cause than the frigi- dity of the climate, must have occasioned the destruction of the plane trees in England, since it is well known that the winters of Vermont and Lower Canada, far surpass in severi- ty those of the island of Great Britain. The fruit of the svcamore is the favourite food of the paroquet, and large flocks of these gaily plumed birds con- stantly enliven the gloomy forests of the Ohio. During the night of the 18th, the weather being clear, we continued on our voyage, as is customary with most of the steam boats navigating the Ohio. It was long since remarked by Mr. Schultz, and consid- ered by him as an inexplicable circumstance, that the reflec- tion, by night, of the image of the banks of the Ohio, does not furnish an infallible guide to the middle of the bed of the river. Nothing is more manifest than that the banks at different places, having different degrees of elevation, and being sometimes naked, and sometimes covered with very tall trees, must, of necessity, cast shadows of different lengths, upon the surface of the water, consequently that the luminous stripe along the middle of the river, from the sur- face of which the sky and the stars are reflected, must be greatly subject to irregularities in position and direction. This circumstance often proves very annoying to inexperi- enced pilots, who attempt to navigate the Ohio, or any other VOL. l. 4 26 Expedition to the * river of similar character, by night, as we have had occasion in many instances to experience. On the morning of the 19th we arrived at Louisville, having passed, in the night, the boats containing the sixth regiment of infantry, then on their way to the Missouri. At Louisville we stopped to procure a pilot to conduct our boat over the rapids. Two or three pilots appointed pursuant to an act of the legislature of Kentucky reside at Louisville, always holding themselves in readiness to go on board such boats as are about to descend the rapids, and leaving them again at Shippingsport, for which service they are entitled to receive two dollars for each ark or raft. At these rapids, called usually the falls of the Ohio, the river descends about twenty-two feet, in a distance of less than two miles. At times of high water an acceleration of cur- rent, not usual in other parts of the river, is all that is per- ceived in passing down this descent: at other times the water is dashed and broken upon the rocky and uneven bed of the channel, called the Indian chute, through which a great part of the water passes. The magnificence of a cataract is how- ever at no time displayed here, and it is only in peculiar conditions of the atmosphere, that the noise of the fall can be heard at the distance of one fourth of a mile from the bank of the river. Large boats ascend the rapids at the time of the Spring floods, by the aid of a cable made fast to a tree, or some other object above, and taken in by the capstan. In 1821, the Maysville, a steam boat of about two hundred tons, was taken up, and had nearly reached the head of the rapid, when the cable broke, and the boat swinging round, was thrown against the rocks, in the bed of the river, and placed in such a situation as to render hopeless all attempts to get her off before the next annual rise of the water. Arks and small barges descend, by the aid of skilful pilots, for great part of the year. It is expected that the navigation of this danger- Rocky Mountains 27 ous rapid will soon be rendered more convenient, by canal- ing, which can be accomplished at a very inconsiderable ex- pense. The direction ot the Ohio, above and below the rapids, is nearly from north-east to south-west, but where the stream passes the rocky obstruction occasioning the fall, it is a little deflected from its course, making a bend towards the west. Thus a point is formed on the south-eastern side pro- jecting from the elevated bank, which, from its present posi- tion, would seem to indicate that the bed of the river had changed its place, having formerly traversed the point from north-east to south-west, in a direct line. In times of high floods the water is, in part, discharged through this old chan- nel, and large boats are said to have ascended by that route within a few years past. On this point stands the small town of Shippingsport, at the foot of the rapids. The proposed canal will traverse the point in the rear of this village. The obstacles to be encoun- tered in opening a canal at this place are but trifling. The soil is firm and gravelly, being based on horizontal strata of compact limestone, and fine argillaceous sandstone. The sandstone, which is the rock of most common occur- rence about the rapids, very closely resembles that of Pitts- burgh. It is commonly of a compact texture, having an ar- gillaceous cement, with a laminated structure. At Ship- pingsport, and at Clarksville, in Indiana, it is succeeded by bituminous clay slate. While we were waiting at the rapids, several of the party made an excursion to visit the boiling spring, at the foot of the Silver Creek hills, in Indiana, at a little distance from New Albany. This spring is small, dis- charging no water above the surface of the ground. It is an artificial excavation in the clayey bank of a small stream, called Fountain Creek. It is filled to the level of the water in the creek, the spring itself evidently discharging very little, if any water. That which fills the basin is turbid, being kept in constant agitation by the bubbles of inflammable air which 28 Expedition to the rise through it. The smell of sulphuretted hydrogen is perceptible at considerable distance about the spring, and a piece of silver, held near the sunace of the water, was quick- ly tarnished. The Silver Creek hills are of argillaceous sand- stone, and secondary clay slate ; and this spring seems to be placed near the meeting of the two strata. In the bed of the Ohio opposite Shippingsport, is a tabular mass of rocks visible above water for great part of the year, and called Corn Island. Onthehighestpartsof this, are remain- ing some small portions, of the limestone stratum, which appears in many places to have been worn through, and re- moved by the river. Five or six acres of the surface of this island are of the smooth compact argillaceous sand rock, before mentioned, lying horizontally, and divided into squares and paralellograms by the natural fissures. These fissures con- tain some soil which supports, in the summer, a dense growth of herbaceous plants. Among these we noticed the Hy- pericum spluecrocarpum of Michaux (apparently not the plant mentioned by Nuttail, under that name, which has been no- ticed near Philadelphia, by Collins, and others, but without doubt that originally described by Michaux). Two species of Andropogon, the Panicum virgatum, Solanum nigrum, Polygala verticillata, Leplanthus gramineus, Chenopodium botrys, &c. The lower part of the island is covered with loose sand} bearing some small cotton-wood and willow trees. The unenclosed grounds, about Louisville and Shippings- port are extensive and afford pasturage to great numbers of domestic animals. They are, however, much overrun with luxuriant weeds. The Datura strammonium, which is com- mon in every part of Ohio, is sometimes eaten by sheep, and the spiny capsules of the seed, when about half ripened, we have seen eaten with apparent avidity by cows. In addition to this loathsome plant, the common may-weed (anthemis cotula) has become abundant in all the waste grounds, to the exclusion of the native plants. A few of these, which keep their places with the greatest obstinacy by the road sides, Rocky Mountains. 29 are the Sida abutibon and S. spinosa, and the verbena hastata, while the thistles, Chrysanthemums, and Johnsworts so com- mon about old fields, in New England, are not to be met with. The Eleusine mucronata of Pursh, is one of the most frequent grasses along the streets. The Silver Creek hills, are elevated about one hundred and fifty, or two hundred feet above the level of the country in the rear of JefFersonville. They form a continuous range, crossing the country from north to south. On the Kentucky side they constitute the commencement of a rugged and barren district, called the Knobs, and extending far to the south. At some remote period this range may have formed a barrier, extending across what is now the immediate valley of the Ohio, and retarding the retreat of the waters from the tract above the falls. Coal occurs frequently in this range of hills, on the north side of the Ohio; quarries have been opened near the Blue river, in Indiana, about the two Pid- geons, opposite the mouth of Green river, and in various other places. The larger steam boats which run on the Mississippi, and the Ohio, ascend usually no farther than Shippingsport, and several of them remain at this place, during several months of the summer, while the water is too low to admit their pas- sing up and down the rivei*s. This time it is often necessa- ry to spend in repairs of various kinds. The high steam en- gines require frequent repairs, and in the difficult navigation of the Mississippi the hulks of vessels are often injured. It fre- quently happens that the boats, built at Pittsburgh, and other places near the sources of the Ohio, are within three or four years after they are launched, in a condition to require the plank- ing of fne hulk to be replaced with new timber. These boats are usually planked with the upland white-oak: we have been informed that those boats which are built lower down on the river, and of such timber as is found in the low grounds, are more durable. CHAPTER II. The Ohio below the Rapids at Louisville— 'ascent of the Mis- sissippi from the mouth of the Ohio to St. Louis.* Our small boat descended over the rapids without injury, and having taken on board some wood near New Albany, we proceeded on our voyage, with a pressure of steam equalling one hundred pounds to the square inch, upon all parts of the engine, exposed to its immediate operation. This enabled us to descend, at the rate of ten miles per hour. A small island in the Ohio, about twenty-three miles below the rapids, is called Flint Island, from the great numbers of fragments of flints, broken arrow points, and various in- struments of stone, heretofore used by the Indians, which are found there on turning up the soil. This island has proba- bly been the favourite residence of some tribe, particularly expert in the manufacture of those rude inplements, with which the wants of the aboriginal Americans were supplied. The stone employed in these manufactures appears to have been in most instances, that compact flint, which occurs in nodular masses, in the secondary limestones. In one instance we met with a triangular prism, of a very hard and compact aggregate of feldspar, and hornblende, unlike any rock we have seen in the valley of the Mississippi. This prism was about five inches long, with faces of about an inch in width, and was perforated, from end to end, forming a complete tube, with an orifice, about half an inch in diameter, and smoothly polished, both within and without. We were * Observations were made, at Shippiagsport, to ascertain the rate of going of our chronometer, the latitude of the place, and for other purposes; according to thsee, the Falls are in 38° 15 23 " N. Expedition, &c. 31 never able to discover, to what use this implement could have been applied; nor do we recollect to have met with ac- counts of any thing analogous to it, except, perhaps, those " tubes of a very hard stone," mentioned by the Jesuit Venegas, as used by the natives of California, in their treat- ment of the sick.* That it may have passed, by means of the intercourse of various tribes of Indians, from the primi- tive mountains of California, to the rapids of the Ohio, is not perhaps, improbable. Indirect methods of communica- tion may have conveyed the productions of one part of the continent to another, very remote from it. The savages of the Missouri, receive an intoxicating bean, from their neigh- bours on the south and west ; these again, must probably procure it from other tribes inhabiting, or occasionally visit- ing, the tropical regions. In the Philadelphia museum, are many Indian pipes, of that red indurated clay, found only, (as far as hitherto known,) on the Pipe Stcne branch of the little Sioux river of the Missouri; one of these, however, was found on the banks of the Rio de la Plata, in South America; several were found in the territory now called New England, and in the north eastern part of the continent. On the 26th we passed the mouth of the Wabash, and arrived at Shawaneetown, ten miles below. Near the mouth of the Wabash, an accident happened to the engine, which rendered it necessary for us to drift down, until we should arrive at some place, where repairs might be made. Some of the gentlemen of the party, determined to go on shore, and walk to Shawaneetown. In swimming across a creek, three miles above that place, Lieutenant Graham dropped his rifle in the water, and, having spent some time, in attempts to recover it, did not arrive at Shawaneetown, until after the boat had reached that place. * Page 108. 32 Expedition to the On the 27th, several of the party went out to hunt in the forest, and swamps, north-west of Shawaneetown. At about four miles distance from the Ohio, they arrived at the banks of a small pond, three miles long, and only three or four hundred yards wide. Here they killed a turkey, and some small birds. On the bank of the pond, was found a specimen of the Lake Erie tortoise,* depositing its eggs in the sand, at about twenty yards distance from the water. It had made, with its feet, a hole in the sand, two inches in diameter and four inches in depth, enlarging towards the bottom to three inches. This species occurs frequently in the pools and stagnant waters along the Ohio. We first met with it near the rapids at Louisville. Among other birds, we no- ticed about Shawaneetown, the pileated woodpecker, the minute tern, numerous flocks of the psittacus caroliniensis, two broods of young wood duck, some gulls, and semipal- mated sandpipers. The terns appear to be attracted hither by great numbers of a species of phryganea, with which we found the stomachs of some of them filled. The semipal- mated sandpipers were in large flocks, and did not appear stationary. We left Shawaneetown at twelve o'clock on the 28th, and stopped three miles below, to take in wood ; then proceeding forward, at four P. M. we ran aground on a sand bar, seven miles above the " Cave Inn," or " House of Nature." After much exertion, by means of anchors and poles, with the aid of the engine, and all the men, who were under the necessity of jumping into the river, we at length succeeded in getting her off, and ran down to the Cave, where we laid by for the night. Early the next morning, we went to visit the cave, of the entrance to which two views were sketched by Mr. Sey- mour. It is a perpendicular fissure, extending about one hundred and sixty feet, into the horizontal limestone cliffs, * Testudo geographica of Leseuer. Rocky Mountains. 3S which here, form the north bank of the river. At times of high water, the Ohio flows in, and fills the cave nearly to its roof. In this cave, it is said, great numbers of large bones were some time ago found, but we saw no remains of any- thing of this kind. Impressions and casts of the shells of submarine animals are seen in the rocks, forming the sides of the cave, as in all the stata of compact limestone, in this region. The organic remains' here, do not appear to be so numerous as those of the rocks at the falls, and at Cincinnati ; and are much less distinct, and visible in the fracture; in- deed the fracture generally exhibits to the eye no vestige of organic remains. It is upon the surface only, and more especially in such parts of it as are in a certain stage ot decomposition, that they are at all to be distinguished. As far as we could discover, they consist, chiefly of the caryophyllse, similar to the radiated species, so common at the falls of Ohio; of the encrinus, but of this our specimens were not so perfect, as to enable us to determine the analo- gy. Numerous other remains were exhibited, but not sufficiently characterized, to be referred to their proper places in the system. The top of the cliff, into which this fissure opens, is said to be the favourite haunt of great num- bers of birds of prey. This is not improbable, as many hawks and birds of prey always choose high and inaccessi- ble cliffs to build their nests in. We saw about the tops of these rocks, only one pair of hawks, which we took to be of the red shouldered species, (Falco lineatus,) hurt a heavy rain, which commenced soon after we had ascended, prevented us from procuring a specimen. About the cave, we found some fragments of pottery, arrow points, and other articles of Indian manufacture. Near Shawaneetown are extinsive salt manufactories, at a place heretofore called the United States' Saline, afford- ing employment and a source of trade to a part of the inhabi- tants of that village. Common salt, with the nitrates of vol. i. 5 34 Expedition to the lime, potash, &c. occur in great plenty, in connexion with the horizontal limestones and sanJstones on the Ohio. Of these we subjoin some account, from the mineralogical re- port of Mr. Jessup.* * J\ Urate of Potash. This salt occurs in most of the caves in the wes- tern states and territories. It is found in efflorescences and incrustations frequently combinded with nitrate of lime. Its colour is grayish or yellow- ish white. The manufacture of nitre, in the numerous caves in Kentucky, is conducted as follows: The earths containing the nitrates of lime and potash are lixiviated ; the lixivium is afterwards passed through the ashes of wood, by the alkali of which the nitrate of lime is decomposed. If the earths, after having been lixiviated, are replaced in the caves, they again become impregnated with the same salts. One bushel of earth commonly yields from one to four pounds of nitre. The process by which nature supplies the consumption of this important article has not yet been discovered. Muriate of Soda. In the Uuiled States, common salt has been usually found in solution combined with the sulphates of lime, magnesia and soda, and with sulphuretted hydrogen gas. The springs, yielding the greatest quantity of salt, are those of the Kenhawa, and little Sandy rivers, the U. S. Salines near Shawaneetown Illinois, Boon's Saline, near Franklin Missouri, and Lockhart's on the Le Mine river. The Kenhawa salt works supply about thirty thousand bushels of salt per annum. The rocks about these springs belong to the secondary for- mation, and are limestone, variegated sandstone and bitumiuous shale : we were informed that two hundred and fifty gallons of this water yield one bushel of salt. At the Salines of the Little Sandy ten thousand bushels are manufactured yearly. The waters, like those of the Kenhawa, hold in solution muriate and sulphate of soda, sulphate of lime, and probably a small portion of sulphate of magnesia. Limestone and sandstone are the only rocks to be met with in the neighborhood. The United States' Sa- lines near Shawaneetown, produce at present about a hundred and thirty thousand bushels of salt per annum ; they formerly yielded more than two hundred thousand in the same time. There are now seven furnaces in operation : the water is procured from three wells, two of which are ren- ted by Maj. I. Taylor. At these works the salt water formerly issued from the earth at the su/face. A well of sixteen feet deep, brought the work- men to a spring, which now discharges sixteen gallons of water per minute. Two hundred and fifty gallons )ield fifty pounds of salt. About one thousand yards to the east of this well is a basin, or hollow, one hun- dred and thirty five feet in diameter. The soil in and about it is intimately blended with fragments of earthen ware. In the middle of this basin, a well has been sunk, which affords a more concentrated brine than that before meutioued ; one hundred and ten gallons yielding fifty pounds of salt. * In digging this well, the first fourteen feet was through a light earth mixed with ashes and fragments of earthen ware : the remaining fourteen through a bed of clay, deeply coloured with oxide of iron, and containing fragments of pottery. The clay has something the appearance of having been subjected to the action of fire. At the eastern side of the basin ap- pears to have been a drain for the purpose of conveying away the super- Rocky Mountains. ■ 35 On the 29th of May we passed the mouths of the Cum- berland and Tennesee, the two largest rivers, tributary to the Ohio- At the mouth of the Cumberland, is a little vil- lage called Smithland, where, for a considerable part of the year, such goods are deposited as are designed for Nashville and other places on the Cumberland. The Cumberland and Tennesee rivers are, for many miles, nearly parallel in direction, and at no great distance apart. Between them are some low sandstone hills ; but, we be- lieve, no lofty range of mountains, as has been sometimes represented. About these hills, also, in the low ridges north of the Ohio, we found the sandstone, which appears to be the basis rock, often overlaid with extensive beds of a pud- dingstone, wherein pebbles of white yellow and variously co- loured quartz are united in a cement highly tinged by oxide of iron ; extensive fields of compact limestone also occur in the same connexion. About half way between the mouth of the Cumberland and Tennesee, near the old deserted settlement, origninally called Smithland, are several large catalpa trees. They do not, however, appear to be native, nor have we here, or elsewhere, abundant water. Inthisdrain,about four feetbelowthe surface of the earth, is a layer of charcoal about six inches deep. The stones in the vicini- tv appear as if they had been burnt. Four miles west of this point, a well has been sunk sixty feet through the following beds. First — twenty feet of tenacious blue clay, at the bottom of which they came to a small spring- of salt water. Second — another bed of clay, of a similar character, twenty-five feet thick. Thirl — abed of quicksand, about ten feet deep; in which they met with a large vein of salt water. Bones of the mammoth, and other animals, were found both in the clay and sand. The original reservation at these salines comprised ninety-two thousand one hundred and sixty acres of woodland, and was transfered from the United Mates to the State of Illinois, at the time of the admis- sion of the latter into the union. The rents amount to ten thousand dol- lars per annum. Nitrate of Lime is found in the calcareous caverns of Kentucky ; ac- companying nitrate of potash, with which it is intimately blended in the earth, on the floors of the caves : it is also sometimes found in delicate aecicular crystals, shooting up from the walls and floors of the caverns. 36 Expedition to the been able to discover any confirmation of the opinion, that this tree is indigenous to any part of the United States. It is here called petalfra, which, as well as catalpa, the re- cieved appellation, may be a corruption from Catawba, the name of the tribe by whom, according to the suggestion of Mr. Nuttall, the tree may have been introduced. Follow- ing the directions of the Pittsburgh navigator, we kept near the left shore, below the Cave inn, by which means we again run our boat aground, on a sandbar, where we spent consider- able part of the night in the most laborious exertions. These were at length crowned with success, and having the boat once more afloat, we proceeded with greater caution. On the 30th, we arrived at a point a little above ike mouth of Cash river, where a town has been laid out, called America. It is on the North bank of the Ohio, about eleven miles from the Mississippi, and occupies the firstheights on the former, secure from the inundation of both these rivers, (if we except a small area three and a half miles below, where there are three Indian mounds, situated on a tract containing about half an acre above high water mark.J The land on both sides of the Ohio, below this place, is subject to be overflowed to various depths, from six to fourteen feet in time of floods ; and on the south side, the flat lands ex- tend four or five miles above, separated from the high coun- try by lakes and marshes. The aspect of the country, in and about the town, is rolling or moderately hilly, being the commencement of the high lands, between the two rivers above mentioned; below it, however, the land is flat, having the character of the low bottoms of the Ohio. The growth is principally cottonwood, sycamore, walnut, hickory, maple, oak, &c. The soil is first rate, and well suited to the cultivation of all products, common to a climate of 37 Deg. N. Lat. From the extensive flat, or bottom, in its neigh- bourhood, and the heavy growth of timber, which here ge- Rocky Mountains. ST nerally prevails, it is probable that the place will be unheal- thy, till extensive clearings are made in its vicinity. This position may be considered as the head of constant navigation for the Mississippi. The Mississippi from New Orleans to the Ohio, is navigable for boats of the largest size, and America may be considered as the head of con- stant as well as heavy navigation. Ice is seldom to be found in the Mississippi, as low down as the mouth of the Ohio and never in so large quantities as to oppose any serious ob- struction to the navigation. The navigation of the Ohio has a serious impediment about four and a half miles above the town, occasioned by a limestone bar, extending across the river, called the Grand Chain, This bar is impassable in the lowest stage of the water, and will not admit boats of any considerable burden, except in the higher stages. The Mississippi has, in like manner, two bars, called the Big and Little Chain, which appear to be a continuation of the same range of rocks as that in the Ohio, extending across the point of land, situated between the two rivers. These bars are situated a little above the Tyawapatia Bottom, about thirty miles above the mouth of the Ohio, and in low water have but a moderate depth of water across them, which, added to the rapidity of the current, occasions a serious obstacle to the navigation. Boats suited to the navigation of both rivers above the bars here specified, should be of inferior size ; those for the Mississippi, not exceeding one hundred tons burden, and those for the Ohio, from fifty to seventy-five tons. Any position on the Mississippi in the neighbourhood of the Ohio, would be objectionable for the following reasons : First, The rapidity of the current, which renders it difficult to find a safe and commodious landing, there be- ing no rocky-bound shore within thirty miles above and a 38 Expedition to the far greater distance below the point. — The Iron Banks, seven- teen miles below the mouth of the Ohio, have been thought by some, an eligible position for the extensive business, which, it is admitted by all, must center in this neighbourhood. — But at this place there no safe landing; and besides the banks are com- posed of layers of sand and clay alternating with each other, of an acclivity nearly perpendicular, and annually wearing away, by the current of the river, which sets strongly against them. These banks are elevated about one hundred and thirty feet above the common level of the river, and are insurmountable, except by a circuitous rout, leading from the river a consi- derable distance above and below them. Second, There are no positions on the Mississippi, except the Iron and Chalk Banks, for a great distance below the Ohio, secure from inundation. The bottom directly oppo- site the mouth of the Ohio, on the west side of the Mis- sissippi is elevated a little above high water, but as it is an al- luvial shore, having no permanent foundation, and the banks often falling in, it affords no conveniences or security as a place of business. Third, No places of anchorage for boats of heavy burden are to be found, except in the main channel of the river, where they would be exposed to driftwood, great quantities of which are brought down in times of freshet, — and when borne along with the rapid current of the river occasion serious danger to boats lying in its way. The town of America is almost entirely exempt from any of these objections; -although it has not a rocky foundation, (which may be said of most of the towns on the Ohio,) the current of the river is so gentle, that no such guard against the undermining and wasting away of the banks, is required. In case of an excessive flood, or an unusual quantity of floating ice, (which may possibly be apprehended in remarkably cold seasons) the mouth of Cash river, five •« Rocky Mountains. oi) miles below the town, is a harbour, in which boats may lie in perfect security.* We would not encourage the idea, that the site now fixed upon as a town is exclusively the point where business is to be done ; but that the town will eventually extend along on that side of the river about four miles, to the Big Chain above described. In view of the great extent of inland navigation centering at this place, and the incalculable amount of products, to be realized at no distiant period, from the cultivation of the rich vallies and fertile plains of the west ; a great proportion of which must find a market here ; no doubt can be enter- tained that it will eventually become a place of as great wealth and importance, as almost any in the United States. In the afternoon of the 30th we arrived at the mouth of the Ohio. This beautiful river has a course of one thousand and thir- ty-three miles, through a country surpassed in fertility of soil by none in the United States. Except in high floods, its water is transparent, its current gentle and nearly uni- form. For more than half of its course its banks are high, and its bed gravelly. With the exception of about two miles at the rapids, at Louisville, it has sufficient depth of water, for a part of the year, to float vessels of 300 tons burthen to Cincinnati. The country which it washes, may, with proprie- ty, be considered under two divisions. The first, extending from its head at Pittsburgh, to the little town of Rockport, about 150 miles below the falls or rapids at Louisville, is hilly. This district forms a portion of one of the sides of that great formation of secondary rocks, which occupies the * Although the range from extreme high to extreme low water, amouuls to sixty feet perpendicular, in many parts of the Ohio, it does not exceed twenty feet at this place, owing to the width to which the Ohio spreads in this neighbourhood, when the river is high. This may be considered a circumstance much in favour of the place, when compared with the disadvant?ges most other positions on the Ohio labour under, from inun- dation in high water, and the difficulty of unlading in low. 40 Expedition to the basin of the Mississippi and its tributaries. This formation, like others of the same period, is rough, with small elevations, which are most considerable on its borders, and diminish in proportion, as we approach nearer its central parts. Compact limestone, and sandstone of several varieties, are the rocks which invariably occur along that portion of the Ohio we are now consideriag. Sandstone of a light gray or ashen colour, of a compact texture, an argillaceous cement, and a slaty or lamellated structure, is the most abundant, and occupies the lowest points which we have hitherto been able to examine. This rock frequently contains alternating beds of coal, bituminous shale, and its accompanying minerals. The beds of compact limestone, which occur in this region, usual- ly rest upon the sandstone just mentioned. Considered as a stratum, its distribution is the reverse of that of the sand- stone. It occupies the central and least elevated portions of the formation, and on the borders where the sandstone is most abundant, the limestone is of less extent and of more uncommon occurrence. These remarks are applicable to the hilly district on the upper portion of the Ohio river. From Pittsburgh to Cincinnati, the prospect from the river is that of hills of moderate elevation, sometimes rocky and abrupt, but often sufficiently gradual in their ascent, to admit of cul- tivation to their summits. Their character, as to extent, di- rection, &c. seems to be determined by the number, direc- tion and magnitude of the streams which traverse them. They are the remains of what was formerly a continuous and nearly horizontal stratum, with a large deposit of super- incumbent soil, which the flowing of water, during the lapse of ages, has channelled and excavated to its present form. These hills diminish in altitude as you approach the falls from above ; there they again rise to a height nearly equal to what they attain at the head of the river, and from thence gradually diminish, until they disappear, a little above the confluence of the Ohio and Green rivers. Here commences Rocky Mountains. 41 the low country, which extends west to the Mississippi. It is characterized by the great extent of the river alluvion, the increased width and diminished velocity of the stream. The river banks are low, but thickly wooded with sycamore, cot- ton wood, river maple, the planeraaquatica, cypress, &c. The river hills, which terminate the alluvial district, are distant and low, and it often happens that the surface descends on both sides, from the immediate banks of the river to these hills. Hence when the waters of the river are sufficiently swollen to flow over its banks, they inundate extensive tracts, from which they cannot return to the channel of the river, and are left stagnant during the summer months, poisoning the atmosphere with noxious exhalations. Many of these in- undated tracts have a soil of uncommon fertility, which it is probable will hereafter be recovered from the dominion of the river, by dykes or levees. The beach or sloping part of the immediate bank of the Ohio, throughout its whole extent, is of rather -gradual as- cent, and covered with timber a considerable distance below high- water mark. The average rapidity of the current of the Ohio is about two and an half miles per hour, and the de- scent of its surface nine inches per mile, as estimated by Dr. Drake of Cincinnati. The annual inundations happen in the spring. The range between extreme hig'i and low vvater, in the upper part of the river, is more than 60 feet; but below, where it is not confined by high banks, it is much less. About the falls of Ohio, the cane, (myegia macrosperma of PersoonJ begins to be seen, and increases in quantity thence westward to the Mississippi. The " Cave inn Rock," or " House of Nature,'' which we have before mentioned, is an immense cavern, penetrating horizontally into a stratum of compact limestone, which forms the river bank for some distance above Golconda in Illinois. Its entrance is a large and regular arch, placed immediately on the brink of the ri- ver, and a similar form is preserved in some degree through vol. i. t> 42 Expedition to the its whole extent. The Battery rock is a high mural preci- pice of the same stratum, running in a straight line, and form- ing the northern bank of the river, which washes its base. The face of this precipice is smooth and naked, and it is surmounted by a heavy growth of timber. This limestone is compact, entirely horizontal in its position and filled with organic remains. It is traversed by veins containing sul- phuret of lead, and at several places near Golconda, this is accompanied by fluat of lime, in beautiful yellow and violet coloured crystals. I luat of lime is also found disseminated in small and irregular masses throughout the rock. At Gol- conda, six miles below the cave, a coarse, gray, flinty sandstone is found, extending some distance to the west. This rock forms broad hills on the Kentucky side, between the Cum- berland and Tennessee rivers ; where it abounds in iron ore of several kinds. Perhaps these hills ought to be considered as a spur from the Cumberland hills. At the mouth of the Ten- nessee river, is a locality of the columnar argillaceous oxide of iron, which rises from the surface in pyramidal and colum- nar masses, somewhat resembling the cypress knees. An extensive tract of land between the Tennessee and Mississippi rivers, included in the recent purchase from the Cherokees, is rocky and broken, abounding in ores of iron and lead, and probably some other minerals. We have seen a specimen of sulphuret of Antimony, in possession of an in- habitant, who being a sort of alchemist, greatly delighting in mystery, thought it imprudent to reveal the secret of its par- ticular locality. It is to be hoped, future and more mi- nute examinations than we had the opportunity of making, may hereafter detect valuable mineral depositions in this tract. The confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi, is in latitude 37° 22' 9" north according to the observations of Mr. Ellicott, and in longitude 86° 50' 42" west from Greenwich. The lands about the junction of these two great rivers are low? Rocky Mountains. 43 consisting of recent alluvion and covered with dense forests. At the time of our journey, the spring floods having subsid- ed in the Ohio, this quiet and gentle river seemed to be at once swallowed up, and lost in the rapid and turbulent cur- rent of the Mississippi. Floods of the Mississippi, happening when the Ohio is low, occasion a reflux of the waters of the latter, perceptible at fort Massac, more than thirty miles above. It is also asserted that the floods in the Ohio occa- sion a retardation in the current of the Mississippi, as far up as the little chain, ten miles below Cape Girardeau.* The na- vigation of the Mississippi above the mouth of the Ohio, also that of the Ohio, is usually obstructed for a part of the winter by large masses of floating ice. The boatmen ob- serve that soon after the ice from the Ohio enters the Mis- sissippi, it becomes so much heavier by arresting the sands, always mixed with the waters of that river, that it soon sinks to the bottom. After ascending the Mississippi about two miles, we came to an anchor, and went on more on the east- ern side. The forests here are deep and gloomy, swarming with innumerable mosquitoes, and the ground overgrown with enormous nettles. There is no point near the conflu- ence of the Ohio and Mississippi, from which a distant pros- pect can be had. Standing in view of the junction of these magnificent rivers, meeting almost from opposite extremities of the continent, and each impressed with the peculiar cha- racter of the regions from which it descends, we seem to imagine ourselves capable of comprehending at one view all that vast region, between the summits of the Alleghanies and of the Rocky Mountains, and feel a degree of impatience at finding all ourprospectslimited, by an inconsiderable extent of low muddy bottom lands, and the unrelieved, unvaried, gloom of the forest. Finding it necessary to review the packing of the piston in the steam engine, which operation would require some time, * Schultz's Travels, p. 92. v. 2. 44 Expedition to the most of the gentlemen of the party were dispersed on shore in pursuit of their respective objects, or engaged in hunting. Deer, turkies, and beaver, are still found in plenty in the low grounds, along both sides of the Mississippi, but the annoy- ance of the mosquitoes and nettles preventing the necessary caution and silence in approaching the haunts of these ani- mals, our hunting was without success. We were gratified to observe many interesting plants, and among them several of the beautiful famil) of the Orchidse,* particularly the orchis spectabile, so common in the moun- tainous parts of New England. The progress of our boat against the heavy current of the Mississippi, was of necessity somewhat slow. Steam boats in ascending, are kept as near the shore as the depth of water will admit; and ours often approached so closely as to give such of the party as wished, an opportunity to jump on shore. On the first of June, several gentlemen of the party went on shore six miles below the settlement of Tyawapatia bot- tom, and walked up to that place through the woods. They passed several Indian encampments, which appeared to have been recently tenanted. Under one of the wigwams they saw pieces of honey comb, and several sharpened sticks, that had been used to roast meat upon, on a small tree near by was suspended the lower jaw-bone of a bear. Soon after leaving these they came to another similar camp, where they found a Shawanee Indian and his squaw with four children, the youngest lashed to a piece of board and leaned against a tree. The Indian had recently killed a deer, which they pur- chased of him, for one dollar and fifty cents — one-third more than is usually paid to white hunters. They afterwards met * The cymbidium hiemaleof Willdenow, which has been placed by Mr. Nuttall under the genus corallorhiza of Haller, occurs in the fertile soils of the Mississippi, with two radical leaves, as described by the early au- thors; Mr. N.'s amended description is therefore only applicable to the plant, as it occurs in the eastern 6tates, where it is commonly found to have but a single leaf. Rocky Mountains. 45 with another encampment, where were several families. These Indians have very little acquaintance with the English language, and appeared reluctant to use the few words they knew. The squaws wore great numbers of trinkets, such as silver arm bands and large ear rings. Some of the boys had pieces of lead tied in various parts of the hair. They were encamped near the Mississippi, for the purpose of hunting on the islands. Their village is on Apple creek, ten miles from Cape Girardeau. June 2nd. As it was only ten miles to Cape Girardeau, and the progress of the boat extremely tedious, several of the party, taking a small supply of provisions, went on shore, intending to walk to that place. Above the settlement of Tyawapatia, and near cape a la Biuche, is a ledge of rocks, stretching across the Mississippi, in a direct line, and in low water forming a serious obstacle to the navigation. These rocks are of limestone, and are placed at the commencement of the hilly country on the Mississippi. Here the landscape begins to have something of the charm of distant perspective. We seem released from the imprisonment of the deep monotonous forest, and can, occasionally, overlook the broad hills of Apple Creek, and the Au Vaise, or Muddy river of Illinois, diversified with a few scattered plantations, and some small natural meadows. About five miles above Cape Girardeau we found the steam boat Jefferson, destined for the Missouri. She had been de- tained some time waiting for castings which were on board the Western Engineer. Several other steam boats, with stores for the troops about to ascend the Missouri, had en- tered that river, and were w.ajting to be overtaken by the Jefferson, and the Calhoun, which last we had left at the rapids of the Ohio. On the 3d of June we passed that insu- lar rock in the middle of the Mississippi, called the Grand Tower. It is about one hundred and fifty feet high, and two hundred and fifty in diameter. Between it and the right 46 Expedition to the shore is a channel of about one hundred and fifty yards in width, with a deep and rapid current. In the summer of 1673, Father Marquette and M. Joliet descended the Mississippi, probably as far as the mouth of the Arkansa. Their narrative contains sufficient evidence that they passed the mouth of the Missouri, the Grand Tow- er, the mouth of the Ohio, &c. As their work may not be easily accessible to many of our readers, we subjoin, in a note, an interesting passage, in which these objects are men- tioned.* ♦They left the Illinois about the middle of June. Of the rocky cliffs below the confluence of that river Father Marquette speaks as follows: u Among the rocks I have mentioned; we found one very high and steep, and saw two monsters painted upon it, which are so hideous that we were frightened at first sight, and the boldest savages dare not fix their Eyes upon them. They are drawn as big as a Calf, with two Horns like a Wild-Goat. Their looks are terrible, though their face has something of human figure in it. Their Eyes are red, their Beard is like that of a Ti- ger, and their body is covered with Scales. Their Tail is so long that it goes o'er their Heads, and then turns between their Fore-Legs under the Belly, ending like a Fish Tail. There are but three Colours, viz. Red, Green, and Black; but those monsters are so well drawn that I cannot believe the Savages did it. And the Rock, whereon they are painted, is so steep that it is a Wonder to me how it was possible to draw those Figures: But to know to what purpose they were made is as great a Mystery. Whatever it be, our best Painters would hardly do better. As we fell down the River, following the gentle Stream of the Waters, and discoursing upon those Monsters, we heard a great noise of waters, and saw several small Pieces of Timber, and small floating Islands, which were huddled down the River Pekkanoni. The waters of this stream (the Missouri) are so muddy, because of the violence of its Stream, that it is impossible to drink of it, and they spoil the Clearness of the Mississippi, and make its navigation very dangerous in this Place. This river runs from the North- West, and I hope to discover, in following its channel to its source, some other river that discharges itself into the Mar Marvejo or the Caliphornian-Giilp/i- " About twenty Leagues lower than the Pekitanoni, we met another river, called the Ouabouskigon; but before we arrived there, we passed through a most formidable Place to the Savages, who believe that a Mani- to or Devil resides in that Place to dwas able to walk 72 Expedition to the a short distance on shore, but retured much fatigued by his exertions.* On the morning of the 27th, after having taken in a small supply of indifferent fuel, we crossed over to the right hand side of the river, and took on board one of the party, who had left the boat at an early hour, to visit a friend residing a short distance from the river. At evening we came to anchor half a mile below point Labidee, a high bluff, where observations for latitude were taken. Here we were detained a day making some necessary repairs. A fine field of wheat, which appeared to be ripe, extended down to the brink of the river opposite the spot where we lay. This belonged to the plantation of a farmer, recently from Virginia. From him we obtained a plentiful supply of milk, and some bacon hams. A portion of the bank had lately fallen into the river, and with it, a part of the wheat field, and the dwelling hojise and other buildings seemed destined soon to follow. The shore here was lined with the common elder, (Sam- bucus canadensis) in full bloom, and the cleared fields were yellow with the flowers of the common mullien. This plant, supposed to have been originally introduced from Europe, follows closely the footsteps of the whites. The liatris pycnostachia here called " pine of the Prairies," which was * The vegetable productions at this place were, the populus deltoides, oc- cupying the narrow margin of the river, (not here preceded by the salix an- gustata, as is generally the case in recent alluvial grounds on the Ohio and Missisippi,) the amorpha fruticosa,f and platanusoccidentalis, next follow. The margin of the bluff produces the quercus rubra, juglans pubescens, carpinus Americana, (around the latter, we observed the celastrus scan- dens eutwined and in fruit,) and on higher grounds, the laurus sassafras andjuniperus Virginianus. Of herbaceous plants, the only one in flower was the Rudbeckia fulgida. The higher parts of the hills were in many places thickly covered with species of Elymus and Andropogon, the summits being usually quite naked, and consisting of horizontal masses of ferruginous coloured sandstone. Baldwin. t This beautiful flowering shrub occupies the low lands of Georgia, on the sea coast, but is not confined to the margin of rivers, as appears to be the case on the Missouri. , Rocky Mountains. 73 now in full bloom, has a roundish tuberous root, of a warm somewhat balsamic taste, and is used by the Indians and others, for the cure of Gonnorhsea. The Indian interpreter Mr. Dougherty also showed us some branches of a shrub, which he said was much used among the natives, in the cure of Lues venerea. They make a decoction of the root, which they continue to drink for some time. It is called ** blue wood" by the French, and is the Symphoria racemosa of Pursh, common to the maritime states, the bank of the St. Lawrence, and the Missouri. It is here rather taller, and the branches less flexuous than in the eastern states.* Without meeting any remarkable occurrences, we moved on, from day to day, encountering numerous obstacles in the navigation of the river, and being occasionally delayed, by the failure of some part of the steam engine, till on the 2d of July, we arrived at Loutre Island, where we found Mr. Say and his companions. After leaving the steam boat at St. Charles, on the 25th of June, this party had travelled over a somewhat hilly coun- try, covered with open oak woods, for about ten miles, to a small creek, called the Darden, entering the Mississippi a few miles above the Illinois. This stream they crossed three miles from the Missouri, having in their walk suffered great- ly from thirst. At evening they tied their pack-horse to a bush, and as they returned after being absent a few minutes for water, the animal took fright, and breaking loose, disen- cumbered himself of his pack, and set off on a gallop to re- turn to St. Charles, and it was not without great exertion that he was overtaken, and brought back. They then pitch- ed their tent, and were so fortunate as to find a house at the distance of half a mile. This belonged to a family from Carolina, and exhibited great appearance of neatness and "' Baldwin. vol.. i. 10 74 Expedition to the comfort, but the owner was found particularly deficient in hospitality. He refused to sell, or to give any refreshments for the use of the party, and even granted them some water with apparent reluctance, marching haughtily about his pi- azza, while some person was annoying his family by play- ing wretchedly on a flute. Mr. Say and the gentlemen of his party had on the fatigue dress of common soldiers, to which they probably owed the coldness of their reception. We are however glad to be able, from much experience, to say that there are few houses in the lately settled parts of the United States, where common soldiers would have met such a reception, as was accorded b) this Mr. N. to the gentle- men of the party. Want of hospitality is rarely the fault of the inhabitants of the remote settlements. Being refused refreshments, they returned to their camp, and with the ad- dition of a hawk which they had killed, made a supper from the contents of their pack. On the 27th they crossed the Perogue, about nineteen miles from St. Charles, and after a fatiguing march of se- veral miles, were entertained at the house of a very worthy- man, who supplied them with whatever his place afforded. From too long fasting, and from the effect of exposure, and fatigue, Mr. Say and others became somewhat unwell, and on their account, the party remained at the house of their friendly host till evening, when they walked four miles to a place called Fort Kennedy. They purchased a ham, and a loaf of corn bread of Mr. Kennedy, paying ten cents per pound for the ham, and twenty-five cents for all the bread, milk, and corn consumed during their stay. The next morning having travelled about seven miles, they halted for breakfast, and having fettered their horse, dis- missed him to feed, but when sought for the purpose of con- tinuing their journey, he could not be found. Two travellers at length arrived, and informed them that the horse had been seen at about six miles distance, on the way towards St. Rocky Mountains. 75 Charles: a horse was therefore hired, and a person returned in pursuit, but he was not to be found, having proceeded on his journey, previously to the arrival of the messenger. The prairie flies (a species of Tabanus,) are exceedingly troublesome to horses and cattle, in so much that people who cross these grassy plains, usually travel very early in the morning, and again at evening, resting greater part of the day ; some indeed journey only by night. If they travel at all in the day, they have the precaution to defend the horse, by a covering thrown loosely over him. The Tabani appear about the 10th of June, and are seen in immense numbers, until about the 10th of August, when they disap- pear. Near the farm houses we observed, that cattle when at- tacked by them, ran violently among the bushes, to rid them- selves of their persecutors. — Mosquitoes were not numerous. As they were fearful of being unable to overtake the steam boat on the Missouri, if they made a longer delay to prosecute the search for their horse, it was determined to abandon him altogether, rather than return to St. Charles, whither he had doubtless gone ; accordingly on the 29th of June, they made a division of their baggage, and each one shouldering his respective portion, proceeded towards the margin of Loutre Prairie. When they arrived here, they determined to take the most direct route towards the Mis- souri, as it seemed folly for them to attempt, in the drought and heat, which then prevailed, to. cross the extensive plains of Loutre, and the grand Prairie with their heavy burthens. They therefore, followed a path leading nearly south, along a naked ridge, where they travelled twelve miles, without finding water, and arrived at Loutre Island in the evening. They were all the day tormented with excessive thirst, and being unaccustomed to travelling on foot, they were much fatigued, ami several became lame. The soil of the exten- sive Prairies which they passed, was not very good, but mixed at the surface, with so much vegetable matter, accumulated /(j Expedition to the by the successive growth, and decomposition of the yearly products, as to give it the aspect of fertility. On the south side of Loutre Prairie, a well has been sunk, sixty-five feet without obtaining water; on the north, water is readily found, by digging to a moderate depth. Loutre Prairie is twenty-three, and Grand Prairie is twenty-five miles in length: on the borders of each are some scattering settlements. Near Loutre island are several forts, as they are called by the inhabitants, built by the settlers during the late war, and designed to afford protection, against the attacks of the Abori- gines, chiefly the Kickapoos, and Saukees, who were most feared in this quarter. They are simply, strong log houses, with a projecting upper story, and with loop holes for musketry. It was within a few miles of this place, that a company of mounted rangers, commanded by captain Calloway, were attacked by the Indians. The assault commenced as the rangers were entering a narrow defile, near the confluence of the Prairie-Forks of Loutre Creek. Several men were kill- ed at the first fire, and captain Calloway received in his bo- dy a ball, that had passed through his watch. So furious was the onset, that there was no time for reloading their pieces, after they had discharged them. Captain Calloway threw his gun into the creek, that it might not add to the booty of the Indians, and though mortally wounded, drew his knife, and killed two of the assailants, but seeing no prospect of success he ordered a retreat, hoping thereby to save the lives of some of his men. He was the last to leave the ground, when springing into the creek he received a shot in his head, and expired immediately. Loutre island, is something more than nine miles long, and about one mile wide, and is the residence of several families. Between it, and the main land, is an isthmus which is left naked at times of low water. Loutre creek enters at the lower end of the island. It is not navigable. Mr. Tal- Rocky Mountains. 77 bot formerly from Kentucky, has been resident here for nine years. His farm is in a high state of cultivation, and furnish- es abundant supplies of poultry, eggs, potatoes, and the nu- merous products of the kitchen garden, of which he sent a handsome present on board our boat. He informed us that peach trees succeed well in the most fertile parts of the island. The first dwellings constructed by the white settlers, are nearly similar in every part of the United States. Superior wealth and industry are indicated by the number, and mag- nitude of corn-cribs, smoke houses, and similar appurte- nances; but on the Missouri, we rarely meet with any thing occupying the place of the barn in the northern States. The dwellings of people who have emigrated from Virginia, or any of the more southern states, have usually the form of double cabins, or two distinct houses, each containing a sin- gle room, and connected to each other by a roof, the inter- mediate space, which is often equal in area to one of the cab- ins, being left open at the sides, and having the naked earth for a floor, affords a cool, and airy retreat, where the family will usually be found in the heat of the day. The roof is composed of from three to five logs, laid longitudinally, and extending from end to end of the building; on these are laid the shingles, iour or five feet in length; over these are three or four heavy logs, called weight poles, secured at their ends by withes, and by their weight supplying the place of nails. They have corn mills, consisting of a large horizontal wooden wheel, moved by a horse, and having a band passed round its periphery, to communicate motion to the stone. These are called band mills, and are the most simple, and economical of those in which the power of horses is employ- ed. The solitary planter, who has chosen his place remote from the habitation of any other family, has some times a mill of a more primitive character, called a hand mill, proba- bly differing, little from those used among the ancient Egyp- 78 Expedition, &c. i tians. It consists of two stones, and while one person causes the uppermost to revolve horizontally upon the disk of the other, a second, who is usually a child or a woman, intro- duces the corn a few grains at a time, through a perforation in the upper stone. Some are content with the still ruder apparatus, consisting of an excavation in the top of a stump, into which the corn is thrown, and brayed with a pestle. This is the method in use among many of the agricultural Indians. A large species of Lampyris is common on the lower part of the Missouri. It is readily distinguished from the small- er species, the common fire fly, by its mode of coruscating. It emits from three to seven or eight flashes, in rapid suc- cession, then ceases; but shortly after renews its brilliancy. This species appears early in May; we saw many of them in returning by night, from the Merameg to St. Louis; but be- fore our arrival at Loutre island they had disappeared, and were succeeded by great numbers of the Lampyris pyralis, whose coruscations are inferior in quantity of light, and ap- pear singly. The black walnut attains, in the Missouri bottoms, its greatest magnitude. Of one, which grew near Loutre island, there had been made two hundred fence-rails, eleven feet in length, and from four to six inches in thickness. A cotton tree in the same neighbourhood produced thirty thousand shingles, as we were informed by a credible witness. CHAPTER IV. Settlement of Cote Sans Dessein — Mouths of the Osage- — Manito rocks — Village of Franklin. The left bank of the Missouri at the confluence of Lou- tre creek is precipitous, terminating a group of hills which can be distinguished, running far to the north-east. To- wards the river, these fall off in perpendicular precipices, whose bases are concealed in a dense growth of trees and underwood. From their summits huge masses of rock have fallen, and some of these are of such magnitude, that their summits rise above the surrounding forest. One standing opposite the head of the Island next above Loutre, is mark- ed with numerous rude drawings, executed by the Indians, some representing men with the heads of bisons, spears, ar- rows, bows, &c. Half a mile above this rock, the Gascon- ade enters the Missouri from the south. The sources of this river are in the hilly country, near those of some of the larger tributaries of the Yungar fork of the Osage ; its waters are transparent, and its current rapid. Traversing a rocky and broken country, it has not the uniformity of current common to many of the branches of the Missouri, but is va- ried by numerous cataracts and rapids, affording convenient stations for water-mills. Some saw-mills have already been erected, and from them, a supply of pine timber is brought to the settlements on the Missouri, that tree being rarely met with here, except in the hilly country. The Gascon- ade is navigable for a few miles. As might be expected a projected town is placed at the confluence of this river, and the Missouri, and is to be called Gasconade. Above the Gasconade, the aspect of the shores of the Missouri, is the same as below, except that the hills are dis- 80 Expedition to the continued on the left side, and make their appearance on the right, extending along eight or nine miles; above this both shores are low bottom grounds. Having received on board Mr. Say and his companions, we left Loutre island on the 3d of July, and passing in suc- cession the mouths of the Gasconade, Bear Creek, the Au Vase and other tributaries, we anchored on the evening of the 5th, above the little village of Cote Sans Dessein. This place contains about thirty families mostly French, occupy- ing as many small log cabins, scattered remotely along the left bank of the river. Nearly opposite the village is the lower mouth of the Osage. Just above the town is the ele- vated insular hill, which has given name to the place ; it ex- tends about eight hundred yards, parallel to the bank of the river, and terminates at a small stream called Revoe's creek. Back of the hill is a marsh, discharging a small stream of water into the creek. The site of the settlement of Cote Sans Dessein is remarkable on account of the fertility of the soil, the black mould extending to the depth of about four feet. The soil is very rich for twenty or thirty miles, in the rear of the village, but the uncertainty of the titles, arising from the conflicting claims, founded on the basis of pre-emption, New Madrid grants, and the concession of a large tract opposite the mouth of the Osage, made by the Spanish authorities in favor of Mr. Choteau, still operates to retard the increase of population. At the time of the late war, the inhabitants of this settle- ment relying on mutual protection, did not retire, but erect- ed two stockades, and block houses for their defence ; the Sauks, assisted by some Foxes and Ioways, having by a feigned attack and retreat, induced the greater part of the men to pursue them, gained their rear by means of an am- buscade, and entering the village, raised their war cry at the doors of the cabins. The women and children fled in con- sternation to the block-houses. At this juncture, a young Rocky Mountains. 81 man was seen, who would not abandon his decrepid mother, even though she entreated him to fly and save his own life, leaving her, who could at best expect to live but a few days, to the mercy of the savages. The youth, instead of listen- ing to her request, raised her upon his shoulders, and ran towards the stockade, closely pursued by the Indians. They fired several times upon him, and he must have been cut off had not a sally been made in his favor. After killing the villagers who had fallen into their hands, the Indians proceeded to attack the lower stockade. The block-house at this work was defended by two men, and several women. On hearing the war cry, this little but deter- mined garrison responded to it in such a manner as to com- municate to the Indians the idea that the block-house con- tained a considerable number of men. They, therefore, pro- ceeded to the attack with caution. In the first onset,* one of the two men received a mortal wound, which made him incapable of further exertion — the other continued to dis- charge the guns at the besiegers, they being loaded and put into his hands by the women. One mode of attack, adopted by the Indians, had nearly prove:' successful. They threw burning torches upon the roof, which was several times on fire, but the women, with admirable presence of mind, and undaunted intrepidity, ascended to the top of the building and extinguished the flames. This scene continu- ed during the entire day, and at evening, when the assail- ants withdrew, a small portion only of the roof remained, so often had the attempt to fire the building been repeated. The loss sustained by the enemy was never correctly as- certained ; it has since been stated by an Indian, that four- teen were killed and several wounded, but many are of opi- nion that two or three only were killed. We saw the hero of this affair at the block-house itself, now converted into a dwelling, but he did not appear to be greatly esteemed, having perhaps few qualities except per- vol. i. 11 $2 Expedition to the sonal intrepidity to recommend him. Cote Sans Dessein contains a tavern, a store, a blacksmith's shop, and a bil- liard table. The Cane* is no where met with on the Missouri ; but its place is in part supplied by the equisetum hiemale, which, re- maining green through the winter, affords an indifferent pas- turage for horned cattle and horses ; to the latter, it often proves deleterious. The inhabitants of St. Genevieve placed their horses upon an island covered with rushes, where great numbers of them shortly after died ; but it was observed that such as received regularly a small quantity of salt remain- ed uninjured. Of a large number of horses, placed on an island near the mouth of the Nishnebottona, to feed upon this plant, no less than twenty were found dead at the end of five days. May not the deleterious properties of the equisetum hiemale depend, in some measure, on the frozen water included in the cavity of the stalk? We were told the cows on this part of the Missouri, at certain seasons of the year, give milk so deleterious, as to prove fatal, when taken into the stomach ; and this effect is commonly attributed to a poisonous plant, said to be fre- quent in the low grounds, where it is eaten by the cattle. They have a disease called the milk sickness; it commences with nausea and dizziness, succeded by headache, pain in the stomach and bowels, and finally, by a prostration of strength, which renders the patient unable to stand ; a general torpor soon ensues, succeeded by death. It is a common be- lief that the flesh of animals, that have eaten of this poison- ous weed, is noxious, and that horses are destroyed by it. We have heard it remarked by the inhabitants of the Ohio below the rapids, that the milk of cows running at large in August is poisonous ; and this they do not fail to at- tribute to the effect of noxious plants, and in some places they point out to you one, and in another place, another ve- * Miegia macrosperma of Persoon. Rocky Mountains. S3 getable, to which they assign these properties. The inhabi- tants generally seem to have no suspicion that milk, unless it is poisoned, can be an unwholesome article of diet, and we have been often surprised to see it given to those labour- ing under fever. Throughout the western states, and'particu- larly in the more remote settlements, much use is made of butter milk, and soured milk in various forms; all of which they sell to travellers. Below Cote Sans Dessein we paid, for new milk, twenty-five cents per gallon, and for soured milk, eighteen and three-fourth cents. At that place twenty- five cents per quart were demanded by the French settlers. It is commonly remarked that the French, as well as the Indians, who have been long in the immediate vicinity of the whites, charge a much higher price for any article than the Anglo-Americans, under the same circumstances. Emi- grants from the Southern states prefer sour milk, and the traveller's taste in this particular, we have often observed, forms a test to discover whether he is entitled to the oppro- brious name of Yankee, as the people of the northern and eastern states rarely choose sour milk. We have found that in some of the sickliest parts of the valley of the Mississippi, where bilious and typhoid fevers prevail, through the sum- mer and autumn, the most unrestrained use is made of but- ter, milk, eggs, and similar articles of diet. Dr. Baldwin was of opinion that the milk sickness of the Missouri, did not originate from any deleterious vegetable substance eat- en by the cows, but was a species of typhus, produced by putrid exhalations, and perhaps aggravated by an incautious use of a milk diet. During the few days we remained at Cote Sans Dessein, Dr. Baldwin, though suffering much from weakness, and yielding perceptibly to the progress of a fatal disease, was able to make several excursions on shore. His devotion to a fascinating pursuit, stimulated him to exertions for which the strength of his wasted frame seemed wholly inadequate; 84 Expedition to the • and it is not, perhaps, improbable that his efforts may have somewhat hastened the termination of his life. Between Loutre island *and Cote Sans Dessein, compact limestone occurs, in hori2ontal strata, along the sides of the Missouri valley. It is of a bluish white colour, compact structure, and a somewhat concoidal fracture, containing few organic remains. It alternates with sandstones, having a si- licious cement.* These horizontal strata, are deeply covered * From Bay Charles hill, 4 miles below Hannibal, Missouri, we receiv- ed, through Dr. Sommerville, several organic remains. Among them are the following : Carbonate of Lime : One specimen contains exclusive quantities of segments of the Encri- nite of small diameter, from 1 -4 of an inch down to miuute. Another specimen also with numerous small Encrinites has a very wide and short radiated Productus. Another specimen a grayish chert, containing cavities formed by the so- lution and disappearance of encrinites, the parts of these which were ori- ginally hollow when in the state of carbonate of lime, being subsequently filled with chert, now show the nature of the fossil, being cylindrical ca- vities, with a solid centre and transverse partitions— the largest 3-10thsof an inch wide. From Rector's hill, adjoining the village of Clarksvillc, Missouri, from Dr. Sommerville's collection : A specimen of oolite — carbonate of lime. It is composed of small spherical granules in contact with each other, which, in their fracture, exhibit rather a concentric tendency, with theap- pearance of a central nucleus; but we could not perceive any decided evi- dences of former organization in them. Imbedded in the mass are a few columnar segments of encrinites, and a portion of a compressed bivalve, which, in the form of its radiating lines, resembles a pecten. From Charboniere : A specimen in argillaceous sandstone of a portion of a leaf like the Nelumbium — It is only the middle portion of the impression of the leaf that remains, being of an oval form of about five inches in greatest di- ameter, the rest being broken away : the stalk has been broken off at the junction of the leaf. Productus spinosus. Say. A small species of terebratula, in width two fifths, and in length more than seven-tenths of an inch — an internal cast — individuals very numer- ous, varying much in size, the smallest being about one-fifth of an inch wide. From the Mammelles near St Charles : Productus : a portion of a valve, and smaller portion of the oppo- site valve of a remarkably large species, of *vhicb the proportions may have been not dissimilar to that of the Ency. Meth. pi. 244, fig. 5— the striae are similar to those of that shell, except in being somewhat smaller, and the groove of one valve, and consequent elevation of the other, not so profound, less abrupt, and more angular in the middle, and Rocky Mountains. 85 with soil, usually a calcareous loam, intermixed with decayed vegetable matter. July 6th. Soon after leaving the settlement of Cote Sans Dessein we passed the upper and larger mouth of the Osage River. Here, to use the language of the country, a town has been located, and the lots lately disposed of at St. Louis at various prices, from fifty to one hundred and eighty dollars each. Within the limits of this town is a considerable hill, rising at the point of the junction of the two rivers, and running parallel to the Missouri. From its summit is an ex- tensive view of the village of Cote Sans Dessein, and the surrounding country. The river of the Osages, so called from the well known tribe of Indians inhabiting its banks, enters the Missouri one hundred and thirty-three miles above the confluence of the latter river with the Mississippi. Its sources are in the Ozark mountains opposite those of the White River of the Mississippi, and of the Neosho, a tributary of the Arkansa. Flowing along the base of the north-western slope of a mountainous range, it receives from the east several rapid and beautiful rivers, of which the largest is the Yungar, (so named, in some Indian language, from the great number of springs tributary to it,) entering the Osage one hundred and forty miles from the Missouri. In point of magnitude the Osage ranks nearly with the Cumberland and Tennessee. It has been represented as navigable for six hundred miles, but as its current is known to be rapid, flowing over great numbers of shoals and sand- bars, this must be considered an exaggeration. In the lower part of its course it traverses broad and fertile bottom lands, bearing heavy forests of sycamore and cotton trees. We may expect the country along the banks of this river will soon become the seat of a numerous population, as it possesses in far less prominent on the edge of the shell. It may justly be named grandis, as its binge width was more than 3 1-2 inches. 80 Expedition to the a fertile soil and a mild climate, advantages more than suf- ficient to compensate for the difficulty of access, and other inconveniencies of situation. The northern bank of the Missouri, for some distance above the confluence of the Osage, is hilly. Moreau's Creek enters three miles above, and at its mouth is Cedar Island, where we anchored for the night. This island is three miles long, and has furnished much cedar timber for the settle- ments below ; but its supply is now nearly exhausted. In the afternoon of the following day we were entangled among great numbers of snags and planters, and had a cat head carried away by one of them. In shutting off the steam on this occasion, one of the valves was displaced, and as we were no longer able to confine the steam, the engine became useless, the boat being thus exposed to imminent danger. At length we succeeded in extricating ourselves, and came to an anchor near the entrance of a small stream, called Mast Creek by Lewis and Clark. At evening dense cumulostratus and cirrostratus clouds skirted the horizon: above these we observed a comet bear- ing north-west by north. Above the mouth of the Osage, the immediate valley of the Missouri gradually expands, em- bracing some wide bottoms, in which are many settlements increasing rapidly in the number of inhabitants. The Manito rocks, and some other precipitous cliffs, are the terminations of low ranges of hills running in, quite to the river. These hills sometimes occasion rapids in the river, as in the in- stance of the Manito rocks, opposite which commences a group of small islands stretching obliquely across the Mis- souri, and separated by narrow channels, in which the cur- rent is stronger than below. Some of these channels we found obstructed by collections of floating trees, which usually ac- cumulate about the heads of islands, and are here called rafts. After increasing to a certain extent, portions of these rafts, becoming loosened, float down the river, sometimes Rockij Mountains. 87 covering nearly its whole surface, and greatly endangering the safety, and impeding the progress of such boats as are ascending. The group above mentioned is called the Thou- sand Islands. Nashville, Smithton, Rectorsville, and numerous other towns of similar character and name, containing from one to half a dozen houses each, are to be met with in a few miles above the Little Manito rocks. Almost every settler, who has established himself on the Missouri, is confidently- expecting that his farm is, in a few years, to become the seat of wealth and business, and the mart for an extensive district. The banks of the Missouri, in this part, present an alter- nation of low alluvial bottoms and rocky cliffs. Roche a Pierce creek is a small stream entering nearly opposite another, called Splice creek, a few miles above the Manito rocks. Here is a range of rocky cliffs, penetrated by numer- ous cavities and fissures, hence called by the French boat- men, Roche a Pierce, and giving name to the creek. These rocks we found filled with organic remains, chiefly encrinites. About eight or ten miles above this point the Missouri again washes the base of the rocky hills, which bound its imme- diate valley. The rocks advance boldly to the brink of the river, exhibiting a perpendicular front, variegated with seve- ral colours arranged in broad stripes. Here is a fine spring of water gushing out at the base of the precipice j over it are several rude paintings executed by the Indians. These cliffs are called the Big Manito rocks, and appear to have been objects of peculiar veneration with the aborigines, and have accordingly received the name of their Great Spirit. It is not to be understood that the general surface of the country, of which we are now speaking, is traversed by con- tinuous ridges, which, in their course across the valley of the Missouri, occasion the alternation of hill and plain, which, to a person ascending the river, forms the most conspicuous 88 Expedition to the feature of the country. The immediate valley of the Mis souri preserves great uniformity in breadth, and is bounded on both sides by chains of rocky bluffs rising from one to two hundred feet above the surface of the included valley, and separating it from those vast woodless plains which overspread so great a part of the country. Meandering from right to left along this valley the river alternately washes the base of the bluffs on either side, while, from a person passing up or down the stream, the heavy forests intercept the view of the bluffs, except at the points where they are thus disclosed. Opposite the Big Manito rocks, and the island of the same name, is the Little Saline river, on the left side ; and three or four miles above, on the opposite side, a stream called the Big Manito creek. Here we passed the night of the 12th July. About midnight so violent a storm arose that we were compelled to leave our encampment on shore, the tent being blown down, and to seek shelter on board the boat. Though the storm did not continue long, the water fell to the depth of one inch and an half. After taking in a supply of wood, we departed on the morning of the 13th, and the same day arrived at Franklin. This town, at present increasing more rapidly than any other on the Missouri, had been commenced but two years and an half before the time of our journey. It then contained about one hundred and twenty log houses of one story, se- veral framed dwellings of two stories, and two of brick, thirteen shops for the sale of merchandise, four taverns, two smiths' shops, two large team mills, two billiard rooms, a court house, a log prison of two stories, a post office, and a printing press issuing a weekly paper. At this time bricks were sold at ten dollars per thousand, corn at twenty-five cents per bushel, wheat one dollar, bacon at twelve and an half cents per pound ; uncleared lands from two to ten or fifteen dollars per acre. The price of labour was seventy- five cents per day. Rocky Mountains. 89 In 1816 thirty families only of whites, were settled on the left side of the Missouri, above Cote Sans Dessein. In three years, their numbers had increased to more than eight hun- dred families. The Missouri bottoms about Franklin are wide, and have the same prolific, and inexhaustible soil as those below. The labor of one slave is here reckoned sufficient, for the cul- ture of twenty acres of Indian corn, and produces ordinari- ly about sixty bushels per acre, at a single crop. In the most fertile parts of Kentucky, fifteen acres of corn are thought to require the labour of one slave, and the crop be- ing less abundant, we may reckon the products of agricul- ture there, at about one third part less than in the best lands on the Missouri. Franklin is the seat of justice for How- ard county. It stands on a low and recent alluvial plain, and has behind it, a small stagnant creek. The bed of the river near the shore, has been heretofore obstructed by sand bars, which prevented large boats from approaching the town; whether this evil will increase or diminish, it is not possible to determine, such is the want of stability, in every thing belonging to the channel of the Missouri. It is even doubt- ful, whether the present site of Franklin, will not at some fu- ture day be occupied by the river, which appears to be at this time encroaching on its bank. Similar changes have happened in the short period, since the establishment of the first settlements on the Missouri. The site of St. Anthony, a town which existed about thirteen years since, near Bon- homme, is now occupied by the channel of the river. Op- posite Franklin is Boonsville, containing at the time of our visit eight houses, but having in some respects a more ad- vantageous situation, and probably destined to rival, if not surpass its neighbour. Numerous brine springs are found in the country about Franklin. Boon's Lick, four miles distant, was the earliest settlement in this vicinity, and for some time gave name to VOL. 1. 12 90 Expedition to the the surrounding Country. Some furnaces have been erected, and salt is manufactured, in sufficient quantities to supply the neighbouring settlements. Compact limestone appears to be the prevailing rock, but it is well known that coal-beds, and strata of sandstone, occur at a little distance from the river.* We visited one establishment, for the manufac- ture of salt. The brine is taken from a spring at the sur- face of the earth, and is not remarkably concentrated, yield- ing only one bushel of salt to each four hundred and fifty gallons. Eighty bushels are manufactured daily, and re- quire three cords of wood for the evaporation of the water. The furnace consists of a chimney-like funnel, rising ob- liquely along the side of a hill, instead of the vertical and horizontal flues, commonly used in these manufactories. The fire being kindled in the lower orifice of this, the ascent of the air drives the flame against forty or fifty iron pots, inserted in a double series; to these the water is conveyed by small pipes. The banks of the ravine, in which this spring rises, still retain the traces of those numerous herds of bisons, elk, and other herbivorous animals, which former- ly resorted here, for their favourite condiment. . While at Franklin, the gentlemen of the exploring party, received many gratifying attentions, particularly from Gen. T. A. Smith, at whose house they were often hospitably re- ceived, and where they all dined by invitation on the 17th of July. Here we met several intelligent inhabitants of the village, and of the surrounding country, from whose conver- sation we were able to collect much information of the character of the country, and the present condition of the settlements. Mr. Munroe, a resident of Franklin, related to us that be- ing on a hunting excursion in the year 1816, he remained some- * In compact limestone, which had been subjected to the action of fire, we observed segments of encriaites becoming easily detached. They were three-fifths of an inch in diameter, varying to the size of fine sand. At Boonsville we found a small ostrea and a terebratula, in carbonate of lime. Rocky Mountains. 91 time on a branch of the Le Mine river, where he found the relics of the encampment of a large party of men, but whether of white troops, or Indian warriors, he could not determine. Not far from this encampment, he observed a recent mound of earth, about eight feet in height, which he was induced to believe must be a cache, or place of deposit, for the spoils which the party, occupying the encampment, had taken from an enemy, and which they could not remove with them on their departure. He accordingly opened the mound, and was surprised to find in it the body of a white officer, apparently a man of rank, and which had been inter- red with extraordinary care. The body was placed in a sitting posture, upon an Indian rush mat, with its back resting against some logs, placed around it in the manner of a log house, enclosing a space of about three by five feet, and about four feet high, covered at top with a mat similar to that beneath. The clothing was still in sufficient preservation to enable him to distin- guish a red coat trimmed with gold lace, golden epaulettes, a spotted buff waistcoat, finished also with gold lace, and pantaloons of white nankeen. On the head was a round beaver hat, and a bamboo walking stick with the initials J. M. C, engraved upon a golden head, reclined against the arm, but was somewhat decayed, where it came in contact with the muscular part of the leg. On raising the hat, it was found the deceased had been hastily scalped. To what nation this officer belonged, Mr. Munroe could not determine. He observed, however, that the button taken from the shoulder, had the word Philadelphia moulded upon it. The cane still remains in the possession of the narrator, but the button was taken by another of his party. In relation to this story, Gen. Smith observed, that when he commanded the United States troops in this department, he was informed of an action, that had taken place near the Le Mine, in the Autumn of 1815, between some Spanish dragoons, 92 Expedition, &c. aided by a few Pawnee Indians, and a war party of Sauks and Foxes. In the course of this action, a Spanish officer had pursued an Indian boy, who was endeavouring to escape, with a musket on his shoulder, but who finding himself near- ly overtaken, had discharged the musket behind him at ran- dom, and had killed the officer on the spot. The skirmish continuing, the body was captured, and recaptured several times, but at last remained with the Spanish party. This may possibly have been the body discovered by Mr. Mun- roe, but by whom it was buried in a manner so singular, is unknown. About the middle of July, the summer freshets in the Missouri began to subside at Franklin. On the 17th the wa- ter fell twelve inches, though in the preceding week, more than two inches of rain had fallen. We were informed that the floods had continued longer this year, and had risen higher than usual, owing to the unusual quantities of rain that had fallen. CHAPTER V. Death of Dr. Baldxvin. — Charaton River, and Settlement. — Pedestrian Journey from Franklin to Fort Osage. Dr. Baldwin's health had so much declined that, on our arrival at Franklin, he was induced to relinquish the inten- tion of ascending farther with the party. He was removed on shore to the house of Dr. Lowry, intending to remain there until he should recover so much strength as might enable him to return to his family. But the hopes of his friends, even for his partial recovery, were not to be realiz- ed. He lingered a few weeks after our departure, and ex- pired on the thirty-first of August. His diary, in which the latest date is the eight of August, only a few days previous to his death, shows with what earnestness, even in the last stages of weakness and disease, his mind was devoted to the pursuit, in which he had so nobly spent the most important part of his life. He has left behind him a name which will long be honoured ; — his early death will be regretted not only by those who knew his value as a friend, but by all the lovers of that fascinating science, to which his life was de- dicated, and which his labours have so much contributed to advance and embellish. We regret that it is not in our pow- er to add to this inadequate testimony of respect, such noti- ces of the life and writings of Dr. Baldwin, as might be sa- tisfactory to our readers. His manuscripts were numerous, but his works were left unfinished. The remarks on the Rot- bollia, published in Silliman's Journal, are his only produc- 94 Expedition to the tions, as far as we are informed, hitherto before the public." His Herbarium, it is well known, has contributed to enrich the works of Pursh and Nuttall. He was the friend and correspondent of the venerable Muhlenbergh, and contributed materials for the copious catalogue of North American plants, published by that excellent botanist. In South America he met with Bonpland, the illustrious com- panion of Humboldt, and a friendly correspondence was es- tablished between them, which continued until his death. He had travelled extensively, not only in South America, but in Georgia, Florida, and other parts of North America. His notes and collections are extensive and valuable. Dur- ing the short period of his connection with the exploring party, the infirmities, resulting from a long established and incurable pulmonary disease, then rapidly approaching its fatal termination, could not overcome the activity of his mind, or divert his attention entirely from his favourite pursuit. Though unable to walk on shore, he caused plants to be collected and brought on board the boat; and not dis- heartened by the many vexations attending this method of examination, he persevered, and in the course of the voyage from Pittsburgh to Franklin, detected and described many new plants, and added many valuable observations relating to such as were before known. To show the scope and ac- curacy of his method of observation, and for the gratifica- tion of the botanical reader, we subjoin a part of the obser- vations registered in Dr. Baldwin's diary, from July * In a letter addressed to Mr. Frazer, an extract from which was pub- lished in the tenth volume of the London Journal of Literature and the Arts, Dr. Baldwin mentions having discovered, near Monte Video, in South America, the Solatium Tuberosum in its native locality. Mr. Lambert, how- ever, considered this plantasthe SolanumCommersonio{Dvmal,2iTid though it produces tuberous roots, and in other respects makes a near approach to S. tuberosum, he was not satisfied of their identity, and remarks that it is yet to be proved, that this is the stock from which the common potatoe has been derived. It appears, however, that the original locality of the so- lauum tuberosum has been ascertained by Ruiz and Pavon, after having escaped the observation of Humboldt and Bonpland. Rocky Mountains. 95 fifteenth, the timeof our departure from Cote Sans Dessein, to its conclusion. From this the reader will be able to form a satisfactory idea of the vegetable physiognomy ot the cou- try on this portion of the banks of the Missouri.* Messrs. Say, Jessup, Seymour, and Dougherty, accompani- ed by major Biddle, left Franklin on the 19th July, intend- * Above Cote Sans Dessein, we saw frequently the Juglans nigra, and J. pubescens, called white hickory, also a species of Crataegus which, though sometimes seen in Pennsylvania, appears to be hitherto undescribed. Its fruit is large, yellow when ripe, and of an agreeable flavour. On the evening of the eleventh we anchored opposite a steep bank, which I was assisted to climb, but night came on, and put au end to our herbarizations before I had the opportunity to collect any thing interesting. The soil here is a dark vegetable mould, at least five feet in depth, and little inter- mixed with sand. I ascended the same bank on the following morning, but found nothing except a species of Carex, that I do not recollect to have seen before. After getting under weigh, we passed high calcareous bluffs on the left side of the river, covered with timber, and reminding us of the deep um- brageous forests within the tropics. Franklin, July loth. Portulacca sativa, Solanum nigrum, Urtica- pumila, Datura strammonium, and Phytolacca decandra, occur by the road side. Blackberries were now ripe, but not well flavoured. Cam- panula americana, the large Vernonia mentioned at Cote Sans Dessein, now flowering. Some plants were brought in, among which we distinguished the Mon- arda fistulosa, Achillea millefolia, Cacalia atriplicifolia, called " horse mint," Queriacanadensis, Menisp^rmumlyoni? Verbena urticifolia. The Annona triloba is frequent aboul Franklin, also the Lauras benzoin, and the Symphorianow in flower, the Rhus glabrum, Cercis canadensis, Am- pelousis quinquefolia, Eupatorium purpureum, in flower. Cucubalus stellatus, still flowering. The Prickly fruited iEsculus has nearly ripen- ed its nut, Zanthoxylouclavahercuhs in fruit, a "wild gourd" not in flower. July 26th. The Gledits.hia is a small tree here, Geum album, My- osotis virginiana, Amaranthushybsidus. Erigeroncanadense, Solanum Car- olinianum, very luxuriant and still flowering. The leaf of the Tilia gla- bra, I found to measure thirteen inches in length, and eleven in breadth. Bignonia radicans, Dioscorea villosa, a Helianthus with a leaf margined with spines, the narrow leaved Bracbystemum, the Liatris pyenostachia, Rudbtckia purpurea, and various others in flower. Juglans porcina, and cinerea, Ostrya virginica, Rhus copallmum. August 4th. Dr. Lowry informed me he has seen Pyrus coronaria, forty feet in height in the forests about Franklin. He showed me a Rudbeckia about three feet high with a cone of dark purple flowers probably a new species. 5th. Eupatorium hieracifolium beginning to flower, Menispermum canadense here called " sarsaparilla," its slender yellow roots being sub- stituted for that article. 6th. A Mimulus is found here resembling M. ringens, but the leares are not sessile; peduncle very short, flowers large, pink coloured, stem acutely quadrangular, Campanula Americana, three and a half feet high?'" 96 Expedition to the ing to traverse the country by land, to Fort Osage, where they proposed to await the arrival of the steam boat. A pack- horse was purchased for the transportation of their baggage, and a tent, blankets, and provisions, furnished for their ac- commodation. The party now remaining on board the steam boat, con- sisted of major Long, major Ol Fallon, Mr. Peale, and lieuten- ants Graham and Swift. Having completed some repairs of machinery, and other necessary operations, which had oc- casioned a delay of six days at Franklin, we left that place on the same dav, at four o'clock in the afternoon. The in- habitants of the village were assembled on the bank of the river to witness our departure, and signified their good wish- es by repeated cheers and acclamations. The fuel we had taken on board, being of an indifferent quality, we were able < to make small progress against the rapid current of the Mis- souri. We anchored, for the night, three miles above Frank- lin. Finding the valves, and other parts of the steam en- gine, so much worn by the fine sand, suspended in the water of the river, as to become leaky, we were compelled to lay by, and were occupied for a day in making repairs. In the meantime the boat's crew, were employed in taking on board a supply of dry mulberry wood, which is the best that the forests along the Missouri afford. The water in the river was now subsiding, and the rapidity of the current conse- quently diminishing; we did not, therefore, so much regret the necessary delays, as we might otherwise have done. Some of the party went out on the south west side of the river, to search for game. Most of the deer, and larger ani- mals, as well as the turkies, have fled from this part of the country, though it is but a few years since they were ex- tremely abundant; they met however, with a raccoon, the Maryland arctomys, some small birds, and some interesting little animals. After leaving the river bottom, they passed some groves of small and scattered oak trees, and bushes. Rocky Mountains. 97 and arrived at the margin of a wide grassy plain, which spread before them as unvaried, and apparently as bound- less as the ocean, and which is said to extend uninterrupted, near three hundred miles to the Arkansa. At evening a soldier came on board the boat, who had been sent express from colonel Chambers' command. He brought intelligence that the detachment had arrived within fifteen miles of Fort Osage, and that their provisions were nearly exhausted. Charaton, where we arrived on the 22d, is a small village, its settlement having been commenced in the year 1817. It is, however, in a flourishing condition, and from the advan- tages of its situation, promises to become one of the most important towns on the Missouri. It does not stand imme- diately on the bank of the Missouri, but of the Charaton river, about seven hundred yards above its mouth. Chara- ton will be the depot of merchandise, for a large extent of fertile country, which lies towards the north and east. At this time, the settlement contained about fifty houses, and near five hundred inhabitants, on a spot where two years previous, no permanent habitation had been established. Such is the rapidity, with which the forests of the Missouri are becoming filled with an enterprising and industrious population. Charaton river is seventy-five yards wide at its mouth, and navigable, at high water, one hundred and fifty miles. Half a mile from its confluence with the Missouri, it re- ceives the Little Charaton, also a considerable stream, and navigable for many miles. The Charaton originates near the De Moyen river of the Mississippi, and traverses a country which is of great importance, both on account of the fertility of its soil, and its inexhaustible mines of coal. The Western Engineer, being the first steam boat that had ever ascended the Missouri, above Charaton, great numbers of the settlers were attracted to the banks of the river, on both sides to witness our progress. So numerous were the obstacles vol. r. 13 98 Expedition to the to be encountered, that many were of opinion our progress would soon be arrested. It sometimes happened, that mis- taking the channel, we ran our boat aground in shoal places, and in some instances it was necessary to fall back, in order to extricate ourselves from these difficulties. In this way much time was consumed. The expansions of the Missouri bottom above Franklin have, since their settlement, received distinctive names. We pass on the south the Chney au Barre, Tabeau, Titesaw, and Miami bottoms; on the north, those of Charaton, Sugar tree, and Grand river. These are wide and fertile plains, usually covered with heavy forests of cottonwood, sycamore, asrmand sugar maple, and partly encircled by the bluffs, rising ab- ruptly, about to the elevation of the highest trees, thence sloping gradually to the prairies, the region of the Grami- na, and the Cyperaceea. Eighteen miles above Charaton is the entrance of Grand river, an important tributary to the Missouri, from the north. This river is one hundred and fiftv yards wide at its mouth, and is navigable, for boats of small burthen, about two hundred miles. Its waters are transparent, except in times of high floods, and its current less rapid than that of the Missouri. There are no settle- ments on its banks, except at the mouth where is a trading house, and the residence of a single family. The lands are, however, of a good quality, and the adequate supply of tim- ber, and numerous springs of water, will ensure their speedy settlement. The Sauks, Foxes, and Ioways, hunt in the plains towards the sources of Grand river, where elk, and deer are still numerous, and the latter dispose of their pej- tries to the traders on the Missouri. The navigation of the Missouri, for a few miles above and below the mouth of Grand river, is supposed to be more difficult than at almost any other place, owing to the rapidi- ty of the current, and the numerous sand bars and snags. Two miles above the confluence, is the channel called Grand Rocky Mountains. 99 liver Cut-Off, so thickly set with snags as to be almost im- passable. The distance by the Cut-Off, to the head of the island, is three fourths of a mile; by the course of the river, to the same point, it is six miles. We followed the old chan- nel, which is much obstructed by trunks of trees and sand bars, and after a few hours succeeded in ascending this dan- gerous pass. Compact limestone, and argillaceous sandstone, occur frequently along the Missouri, above the mouth of Grand river, and indications of coal are often met with. In a country affording but«an insufficient supply of timber for the consumption of a dense population^ these extensive beds of fossil coul will be considered of great value, and the neces- sities of the inhabitants will lead to their early exploration. Whenever the dominion of man is sufficiently established in these vast plains, to prevent the annual ravages of fires, trees will spring up; but we may expect that before forests, ori- ginating in this manner can arrive at maturity, the popula- tion along the banks of the Missouri will become so dense, as to require the greater part of the soil for the purposes of culture. The beds of coal, in this district, lie horizontally, varying much in thickness, and occuring often at an elevation of a few feet above the surface of the water, in the Missouri. On the first of August we arrived at Fort Osage, one hun- dred and five miles above the mouth of Grand river. Here Mr. Say and his party had been some days encamped, hav- ing arrived on the 24th July, from their pedestrian journey, across the country from Franklin. After leaving that place on the 19th, they passed through a fine bottom on the left side of the river, closely covered with forests of oaks, elms, hack- berry, walnut, the mulberry, the gleditschia, the guilandina and the other trees common on the Missouri, for twelve miles, when they arrived at Arrow Rock, where is a ferry by which they crossed the Missouri. In this walk they pas- sed a field of corn, containing seven hundred acres. The 100 Expedition to the ferry boat used at Arrow Rock is one peculiarly adapted to the navigation of a rapid stream. It consists of two canoes, on which rests a platform, with a slight railing to prevent cattle from falling off. Arrow Rock is so called from its having been formerly re- sorted to, by the neighbouring Indians, for the stone used to point their arrows. It is a beautiful situation, and rises to considerable elevation above the water. From its summit is a pleasing view of the river, and near the base is a re- markable eddy, which, as they were crossing, whirled their ferry boat entirely round. On the second day they left their encampment at an early hour, and travelled forward through plains, where very few trees were to be seen. They turned off from the Osage trace, in which they had been travelling, and went eight miles to visit the salt works, and some re- markable diggings, on the saline fork of the Le Mine. Here, at one establishment, one hundred bushels of salt are manu- factured per week; eight men are employed, and one hun- dred and eighty gallons of water are evaporated to produce a bushel of salt. Two miles fromjthe confluence of the Camp Fork with the Saline, are the salt works, and the residence of Mr. Lock- hart, who received the detachment with much hospitality. His works were not then in operation, but were sufficient- ly extensive for the manufacture of five hundred bushels of salt per week. Near his house, are the diggings so often mentioned in this region as objects of curiosity. These are irregular, but very numerous excavations of little depth, but evidently the result of the united labours of many per- sons, who were possessed of instruments of iron and steel, as no others could have penetrated, and removed the com- pact rocky soil, of which the points and brows of the hills are composed. These excavations occur frequently in an extent of two or three miles; and from the amount of labour, which appears to have been expended on them, it has been thought Rocky Mountains. 101 by some, that several hundred men, must have been occupi- ed two or three years in digging them; but this is, doubtless, much overrated. Whoever were the labourers, it is probable their search was for the precious metals, though at present no indications of any metallic ores, except of a little iron, are perceptible about the diggings. Mr. Lockhart had sunk a shaft to the depth of twenty-two feet, but the appearances continued the same as at the surface. After travelling forty miles from Arrow Rock, for great part of the way through open plains, where the high grass and weeds rendered their progress difficult and laborious, they pitched their tent, on the evening of July 21st, on a branch of the Le Mine. Here they saw four Mississippi kites. The forks of the tail of this bird are so much elon- gated, as to resemble some fortuitous appendage, for which, at first sight, they are often mistaken. Sandhill cranes, and flocks of prairie hens were also seen, but were so shy as not to be taken without much difficulty. The country about the Le Mine is beautiful and fertile. The unaccustomed eye, in roving over those extensive un- dulating prairies, is beguiled by the alternation of forests and meadows, arranged with an appearance of order, as if by the labour of men, and seeks in vain to repose upon some cottage or mansion embosomed in the little copses of trees, or in the edge of the forest, which margins the small streams and ravines in the distance. Their provisions being nearly exhausted, the detatchment delayed a short time at their encampment on the Le Mine, to replenish their stock by hunting. This camp was near a place called the Grand Pass, a narrow neck of prairie be- tween the timber of the Saline, and that of a small creek discharging directly into the Missouri. Here the Osage trace passes, and a little beyond falls into a waggon road leading to the Tabeau Settlement. On the 22nd Maj. Biddle experienced a severe attack of cramp in the stomach, but soon found some relief from swal- 102 Expedition to the lowing a quantity of ginger, the only medicine with which they were provided. On the following day they entered the forests of the Missouri bottom, and soon after crossed the Tabeau, where a town of the same name, at that time con- taining two houses, had been established. Tabeau is the name of a Canadian hunter, who formerly frequented this region. The creek is navigable to the site of the projected town, about one mile from the Missouri, having for this distance about six feet of water. Four miles from this place they crossed the Little Tabeau, and at evening pitched their tent on a stream called the Little Chneij au Barre, about a mile and an half from the Missouri. Here is a good mill seat. The Great and Little Chneij au Barre are two creeks entering the Missouri about a mile and a half from each other. Before the mouths of these two creeks is a large island, the slough or Chneij dividing this island from the shore, received the additional name of Au Barre from a hun- ter known, by that appellation, who was lost here for some time, successively ascending the two creeks, which he mis- took for the Missouri ; hence the name of Chneij au Barre island, Great and Little Chneij au Barre creek, &c. In the afternoon they halted to rest at the. cabin of a hun- ter on Fire Prairie creek, so called from the circumstance of three or four Indians having been burned to death by the sudden conflagration of the dry grass in the meadows at its source. Here Mr. Say had an opportunity to examine a young black wolf, which was confined by a chain at the door of the hut. These animals are common in this part of the country. This individual was one of five that had been ta- ken from the same den. It had become familiar with the hunter and his family, but was shy towards strangers. When fed on meat the ferocity of his disposition manifested itself in attempts to bite the children. It was ordinarily fed on bread and milk. This man had been settled here two years, but had not " made a crop," having subsisted himself and his family by Rocky Mountains. 10.3 hunting, wherein he had been very successful. In the pre- ceding autumn he had killed seventy deer, and fifty bears. He took great pleasure in relating his huntirg adventures, particularly his engagements with bears. One bear, which he had killed, he said, weighed seven hundred pounds ; but in this instance he was probably mistaken. He had seen, in the winter of 1818, a large herd of bisons near the Grand Pass ; but they had been driven down by the severity of the weather, and were not ordinarily to be found within the limits of his hunting excursions. During the severe wintry weather, he affirmed that bears make for themselves a shel- ter of brushwood, into which they creep to secure them- selves from the cold. From May until July the female of the common deer conceals her young whilst she goes to feed It is at this time that the hunters take advantage of the maternal feelings of the animal to secure their prey. They conceal themselves and imitate the cry of the fawn. The solicitude of the parent animal for her young overcomes her usual care for her own safety; and believing she hears the cries of her offspring in distress, she hurries toward the spot where the hunter lies concealed, and falls an easy prey.* Mr. Say and his companions were very politely received * A variety of this species, the Cervus Virginianus, three specimens of which occurred at Engineer cantonment, had all the feet white near the hoofs, and extending: to them on the hind part from a little above the spu- rioushoofs. This white extremity was divided upon the sides of the foot by the general colour of the leg, which extended down near to the hoof, leav- ing a white triangle in front, of which the point was elevated rather high- er than the spurious hoofs. The black mark upon the lower lip, rather behind the middle of the sides, was strongly noted — Total length, exclusive of hair, at tip of tail, ft. Ear, from the upper part of the head, Tail, from lateral base, exclusive of the hair, Hind foot, from tip of os calcis to tip of toe, Fore arm, Weight, in February, U5lbs. This species, common as it is, was never figured, nor indeed very well described, until the year 1819, when it appeared in the valuable work of Messrs. Geoffroy and F. Cuvier (Hist. Nat. des Mammiferes, 2nd liv.) 5 4 3-4 6 1-2 9 1-2 iu 1 6 1-4 1 11 7-8 104 Expedition to tht by Col. Chambers, then at Fort Osage. The rifle regiment was encamped here, waiting the arrival of the contractor's boats. Fort Osage was established in 1808, by Gov. Lewis. It stands on an elevated bluff, commanding a beautiful view of the river, both above and below. The works are a stockade, of an irregular pentagonal form, with strong log pickets per- forated with loop holes ; two block houses are placed at op- posite angles ; one of them, however, flanks one of its cur- tains too obliquely to be of much service in defending it. There is also a small bastion at a third angle. Within are two series of buildings for quarters, store houses, &c. The position of the fort is not a secure one, on account of nume- rous ravines and declivities that would cover an enemy within a short distance ; but is such that boats ascending or descending the river must be exposed to its fire. The stream in the middle of the river, and on the opposite side, is so remarkably rapid that it is in vain to contend against it with the oar or paddle ; it is, therefore, usually necessary for as- cending boats to enter the eddy, which brings them within musket shot of the fort. Its highest northern range is Canada, in North America; and it is found as far south as the river Oronoco, in South America. This species is leanest in February and 'March, and in best condition in October and November. The rutting season commences in November, and continues about one month, ceasing generally about the middle of December. During this season the neck of the male becomes much di- lated. The fawn, towards autumn, loses his spots, and the hair becomes gray- ish, and lengthens in the winter. In this state the deer is said by the hun- ters to be in the gray. This coat is shed in the latter part of May and beginning of June, and is then substituted by the reddish coat. In this state the animal is said to be in the red. Towards the last of August the old bucks begin to change to the dark bluish colour ; the doe commences this change a week or two later. In this state they are said to be in the blue. This coat gradually lengthens until it comes again to the gray. The skin is said to be toughest in the red, thickest in the blue, and thinnest in the gray. The blue skin is most valuable. The horns are cast in January. They lose the velvet the last of Septem- ber, and beginning of October. About the middle of March, Mr. Peale shot a large doe, in the matrix of which were three perfectly formed young, of the size of a rabbit. Rocky Mountains. 105 At the time of our journey Fort Osage, which, according to our estimate, is one hundred and forty-two miles, by the course of the river, above Charaton, was the. extreme fron- tier of the settlements. For a great distance below, the es- tablishments of the white settlers were confined to the im- mediate banks of the Missouri. The inhabitants of this fron- tier are mostly emigrants from Tennessee, and are hospita- ble to strangers. Many of them are possessed of considera- ble wealth. In the inhabitants of the new States and Terri- tories thece is a manifest propensity, particularly in the males, to remove westward, for which it is not easy to ac- count. The women, having their attention directed almost exclusively to domestic pursuits, form local attachments, and establish habits, which are not interrupted without occa- sioning some disquietude. They are at first discontented in their new abode ; in :i few weeks they become reconciled, but less attached than to their former home ; and, at length, by the habit of frequent migration, they acquire the same fondness for an adventurous, unsettled life, as characterises the men. Daniel Boon, whose history is connected with that of all the new settlements from Kentucky westward, answered to an inquiry concerning the cause ot his frequent change of residence, " I think it time to remove when I can no longer fall a tree for fuel, so that its top will lie within a few yards of the door of my cabin." The charms of that mode of life, wherein the artificial wants, and the uneasy restraints insepa- rable from a crowded population are not known, wherein we feel ourselves dependent immediately and solely on the bounty of nature, and the strength of our own arm, will not be appreciated by those to whom they are known only from description, though they never fail to make an impression upon such as have acquired a knowledge of them from ex- perience. A settler^ on the Missouri observed to us, ihat the land he at present occupied was not better than that he vol. t. 14 106 Expedition to the had left in Tennessee ; but he did not wish to spend all his life in one place, and he had learned, from experience, that a man might live in greater ease and freedom where his neighbours were not very numerous. A person upwards of sixty years old, who had recently arrived at one of the highest settlements of the Missouri, inquired of us very particularly of the river Platte, and of the qualitv of the lands about its source. We discovered that he had the most serious intention of removing with his fami- ly to that river. On the last day of July and the .first of Au. gust about two inches of rain fell : the prevailing winds were from the north-east ; but the superior strata of the at- mosphere carried clouds of different descriptions in differ- ent, and sometimes opposite directions. The moon, soon af- ter rising, passed behind a long dense body of cirrus clouds, that floated over the eastern horizon. Long and distinct radii were soon after seen converging to a point fifteen or twenty of the moon's diameters to the eastward of its disk. Such is the refracting power of the aqueous vapors some- times suspended in the atmosphere. Horizontal strata of sandstone, and compact limestone, are disclosed in the cliffs on both sides the valley of the Mis- souri. These rocks contain numerous remains of Caryophilla, Productus, and Terebratulse.* * From Fort Osage. Productus spinosus. Say. Longitudinally and transversely subequally striated, the transverse striae somewhat larger than the others; a few re- mote short spines, or acute tubercles,, on the surface, arising from the lon- gitudinal striae. Breadth an inch and a half; the striae are somewhat indistinct — as in No. 5. Productus incurvus. Say. Shell much compressed ; hinge margin nearly rectilinear; surface of the valves longitudinally striated; convex valve longitudinally indented in the middle ; the beak prominent and incurved at tip ; opposite valve with a longitudinal prominence in the middle ; the beak incurved into the hinge beneath the other beak and distant from it. Width more than 2 2-5 inches — A few univalves also occurred, but they were so extremely imperfect that their genera could not be made OUti Rocky Mountains. 107 Some days passed, after our arrival at Fort Osage, before the weather admitted our making the astronomical observa- tions necessary to ascertain its position. The mean of the results of several observations of the meridian altitude of the sun's lower limb gave 39° 9' 33 1-2" north, for the latitude of the place. A dark coloured carbonate of Kme, containing1 small Terebratulae like the T. ovata of Sowerby. but less than half as long. No. I. — A mass of carbonate of lime, containing segments ofencrinites in small ossicula. 6.— A Caryophylla of a single star, about 4 inches long, of an irregu- larly transversely undulated surface, imperfect at each end, but seems to have been attached at base — Near the base it is bent at an angle of about 45 degrees. Some small and young specimens of the Terebratula, like T. subundata of Sowerby. Miliolites centralis — Say. 12. Astrea. A. species of very minute alveoles. From the state of the petrifaction no radii are perceptible, so that the genus is not determinable. Saltworks near Arrow Rock. Columnar segments of the Encrinus. Inferior portion of the head of a Pentramea. Say. Segments of the column of an oval encrinus, much narrower in the mid- dle than the oval vertebra of an encrinite represented by Parkinson, Vol. 2. pi. 1.3, f. 40 — resembling those of the genus Plalycrinites of Miller. • CHAPTER VI. Mouth of the Konzas — Arrival at Wolf River — Journey by land from Isle au Vache to the village of the Konzas. Wishing to extend our examinations between Fort Osage and the Konzas river, also between that river and the Platte, a party was detached from the steam boat, with instructions to cross the Konzas, at the Konza village, thence to traverse the country by the nearest route to the Platte, and to des- cend that river to the Missouri. The party consisted of Mr. Say, to whom the command was entrusted, Messrs, Jessup, Peale and Seymour, Cadet Swift, Mj. J. Dougher- ty, and five soldiers. They were furnished with three pack- horses, and a supply of provisions for ten days. Thus or- ganized and equipped, they commenced their march on the afternoon of August 6th, accompanied by Maj. Biddle and his servant. After their departure, the steam boat was delayed a few days at Fort Osage. On the ninth a part of the troops des- tined for the Missouri service arrived in keel-boats. Col. Chambers, with the principal part of his regiment, were still at Fort Osage, awaiting the arrival of supplies of provisions, now daily expected. On the following day we resumed our journey, and were accompanied about ten miles by Mr. Sibley, agent of Indian affairs, and his lady, to whom the gentlemen of the party were indebted for numerous hospitable attentions during their stay at Fort Osage; also by captain Bissel, and lieuten- ant Pentland, of the rifle regiment, who returned in a skiff. Our progress was much impeded by shoals and rapids in the river, but we succeeded in passing these without warping, and anchored at sun-set, having ascended eighteen miles. Expedition, &?c. 109 Between Fort Osage and the mouth of the Konzas river, a distance of about fifty-two miles, are many rapid places in the Missouri. We were able to ascend all these, except one, without towing. It was with some difficulty we supplied our furnace with wood of a suitable quality. The forests of the Missouri, though limited in extent, are deep and shady, and, though the atmosphere is perceptibly less humid than in the forests of the Mississippi, fallen trees, whose wood is soft and porous like that of the linden and cotton tree, absorb much moisture from the ground. It was only when we were so fortunate as to find a dry mulberry, ash, or cotton-wood still standing, that we could procure fuel well adapted to our purpose. Much time was of necessity expended in cutting and bringing on board our supplies of this article, and the additional delay occasioned by the numerous obstacles to the easy navigation of the river, made our ascent somewhat te- dious. The mouth of the Konzas river was so filled with mud, deposited by the late flood in the Missouri, as scarcely to admit the passage of our boat, though with some difficulty we ascended that river about a mile, and then returning drop- ped anchor opposite its mouth. The spring freshets subside in the Konzas, the Osage, and all those tributaries that do not derive their sources from the Rocky Mountains, before the Missouri reaches its greatest fulness ; consequently the waters of the latter river, charged with mud, flow into the mouths of its tributaries, and there becoming nearly stagnant deposit an extensive accumulation of mud and slime. The Konzas river has a considerable resemblance to the Mis- souri ; but its current is more moderate and the water less turbid, except at times of high floods. Its valley, like that of the Missouri, has a deep and fertile soil, bearing similar forests of cotton-wood, sycamore, &c. interspersed with mea- dows ; but in ascending, trees become more and more scat- 110 Expedition to the tered, and at length disappear almost entirely, the country, at its sources, being one immense prairie. We sailed from the mouth of the Konzas on the 13th of August. Numerous sandbars occur in the Missouri above that point, and these occasioned us some delay. The water having fallen several feet, we had less velocity of current to contend against, but found it more necessary to keep in the channel, and could not so often take advan- tage of the eddy currents, below the points and along the shore. A party of white hunters were encamped on the Missou- ri, not far above the Konzas. In the rudeness of their de- portment and dress, they appeared to us to surpass the Sava- ges themselves. They are usually the most abandoned and worthless among the whites, who adopt the life of wander- ing hunters : frequently they are men whose crimes have excluded them from society. Eighteen miles above the Konzas river, and five above the Little Platte, is a large island, which from its rhombic form, has received the name of Diamond island. The principal channel is on the north side. It is difficult to pass, being much obstructed by sandbars. Four miles above this is a small group, called the Three Islands ; and two miles further another cluster, known as the Four Isl- ands, and by the French as the Isles des Pares, or Field Is- lands. At each of these places, as in the neighbourhood of islands generally, the navigation is difficult. The site of an old village of the Konzas, and the remains of a fortification erected by the French, were pointed out a few miles below Isle au Vache. This island, which lies about one hundred miles above Fort Osage, was the win- tering post of Capt. Martin's detachment, destined to pro- ceed in advance of the troops ordered to the Missouri. Captain Martin, with three companies of the rifle regiment, left Bellefontain in September 1818, and arrived at Isle au Rocky Mountains. Ill Vache in October, with the expectation of resuming his march, as early in the following spring as the weather would permit. But not having received the necessary supplies of provisions as anticipated, they had been compelled to remain till the time of our arrival, subsisting themselves principally by hunting. Fortunately, this part of the country afforded so much game, that a competent supply was easily obtained. Between two and three thousand deer, beside great numbers of bears, turkies, &c. had been taken. The arrival of the boats, laden with provisions, now furnished them the means of continuing their ascent, and they had the prospect of de- parting within a few days. Previous to our departure from Fort Osage, major O'Fal- lon, the Indian agent who accompanied us, had sent a mes- senger across the country by land to the Konzas nation of Indians, residing on the Konzas river, summoning their chiefs to a council, to be held at Isle au Vache, on the arri- val of the Western Engineer. Agreeably to the message sent by an interpreter, the Indians had been expected on the 18th, but did not 'arrive until the 23d of August, having been ab- sent, when the messenger reached their village, on a hunt- ing excursion. As soon as they received the invitation they repaired, with all convenient speed, to the appointed place, having sent runners before, to apprise us of their approach. The interpreter, who returned with them, brought intelli- gence of the safe arrival of Mr. Say and his party, and of their kind reception at the Konza village. We were sorry to learn that Mr. Say had been in ill health, and had not entirely recovered. On the 24th, the chiefs and principal men of the Konzas, to the number of one hundred and fifty, assembled under an arbour prepared for their reception. The Indian agent addressed them in a speech adapted to the occasion, setting forth the causes of complaint, which they had given by their repeated insults and depredations upon the whites, giving 112 Expedition to the them notice of the approach of a military force, of sufficient strength to chastise their insolence, and advising them to seize the present opportunity of averting the vengeance they deserved, by proper concessions, and by their future good behaviour, to conciliate those, whose friendship they would have so much occasion to desire. The replies of the chiefs were simple and short, expres- sive of their conviction of the justice of the complaints made against them, and of their acquiescence in the terms of reconciliation proposed by the agent. There were pre- sent at this council, one hundred and sixty-one Konzas, in- cluding chiefs and warriors, and thirteen Osages. The most distinguished men were Na-he-da-ba, or Long Neck, one of the principal chiefs. Ka-he-ga-wa-ta-ning-ga, Little Chief, second in rank. Shon-ga-ne-ga, who had been one of the principal chiefs, but had resigned his authority in favor of Ka-he-ga-wa-ta-ning-ga. Wa-ha-che-ra, Big Knife, a partizan or leader of war parties. Wom-pa-wa-ra, He xvho scares all men, more commonly known to the whites as Plume Blanche, or White Plume, a man rising rapidly in importance, and apparently destined to become the leader of the nation. In addition to the Indians, the officers of the garrison, and a few gentlemen were present at the. council. The ceremonies were commenced by a discharge of ord- nance from the steam boat ; the flags were hoisted in their appropriate places, a council flag being placed near the chair occupied by the agent. The Indians appeared gratified at the displays made on the occasion, but their attention was more particularly aroused by the exhibition of a few rockets and shells, fired for their entertainment. At our departure, which, on account of the Indians, was delayed until the 25th of August, man}' of them were present, and manifested some surprise at witnessing the operations of the steam boat.. It was thought adviseable to make some addition to our force at Isle au Vache, as we should soon be in advance of fiocky Mountains. 113 the troops on the Missouri, and might be exposed to insults and depredations, from some of the numerous tribes of In- dians. Accordingly, on application to colonel Morgan, a boat and fifteen men, under the command of lieutenant Fields, were detailed for this duty, and directed to regulate their move- ments agreeably to the orders of the commanding officer of the exploring expedition. These men were furnished with pro- visions for sixty days, and having embarked on board a keel boat, called the Gen. Smith, they sailed in company with the Western Engineer. A favourable wind springing up, we proceeded in the course of the day about twenty-three miles, and encamped at night near the entrance of a small stream called Independence Creek. A little above, and on the south side of the river, is the site of an old Konza town, called formerly the village of the Twenty- Four. Above Cow Island the Missouri is more serpentine in direction than below, and the difficulties of the navigation we found by no means diminished as we ascended. The bed of the river, in many places, is broad, and the water distributed into small channels separated by sandbars. About fifty miles above Cow Island we passed a spot that had lately been occupied as a hunting camp by captain Martin, who had been here to procure the requisite provisions for the subsistence of his party. At the Yellow Banks we found the bluffs elevated about one hundred and fifty feet above the surface of the valley. Barometric observations, several times repeated, gave nearly the same result at some points below. One hundred and fifty feet may, therefore, be assumed as the medium depth of the immediate vallev of the Missouri ; its aggregate width, for the first five hundred miles above the Mississippi, may be estimated at about three miles. The corresponding appear- ances in the strata of the opposite sides of this valley, as well as its entire form and character, indicate it to have been formed by the river. But far more than that vast body of vol. i. 15 114 Expedition to the soil and of rocky strata which formerly filled the space now occupied by the immediate valley of the river, has been removed by the Missouri. From the summit of the bluffs there is a sloping ascent towards the interior of the country, and it is probable the aggregate elevation of the great plains, is not less than three hundred feet above the surface of the river. If we admit that this great valley, with its numerous ramifications, has resulted from the operation of currents, wearing down, and transporting to the ocean the solid ma- terials of the earth's surface, it would appear necessary st;ll farther to acknowledge that this channel was once much deep- er than at present, for we usually meet with thick alluvial depositions covering the rocks that line the bottom of the Missouri valley. The manifest tendency of the operation of the Mississippi, at this time, upon its valley, is to fill up rather than to excavate ; but it may be doubted whether this is equally, or even to any degree, the case with the Missouri. The aggregate mass of alluvion within the valley of the Missouri is, undoubtedly, moving downwards, with con- siderable rapidity, fojr the quantity of earthy matter carried into the Mississippi is, at all times, very great. In their descent the alluvial substances are alternately deposited and swept away, as by the variations in the direction of the cur- rent any particular point is, from time to time, either expos- ed to, or sheltered from, the action of the stream. About eighty-seven miles above Cow Island is the mouth of the Nodowa, a river of some importance, being about seventy yards wide, and navigable to some distance. It is not usually seen in passing, being concealed by the island called the Great Nodowa, which is about five miles long, and covered with heavy forests. The lands on tne Nodowa are of an excellent quality. On the 1st of September, we were under the necessity of remaining encamped near the mouth of Wolf river, that some repairs might be made to the steam engine. Here we sent out some persons to hunt, who after a short time re- Rocky Mountains. 115 turned, having taken a deer, a turkey, and three swarms of bees, which afforded us about halt a barrel of honey. On the trees which margin the river, we frequently observed a fine species of squirrel, which possesses all the graceful activity of the common grev squirrel, as it leaps from bough to bough.* After our machinery was adjusted, we resumed our ascent, and had proceeded a short distance, when we were hailed from shore by Mr. Dougherty, who had accom- panied Mr. Say's party across the country. We were not a little surprised at this unexpected meeting, and were appre- hensive some disaster had befallen the detachment. Mr. Dougherty being received on board, informed us that Mr. Peale, Mr. Swift, Mr. Seymour, Chaboneau the Indian * Sciurus macroura. Say. B xly above each side, mixed gray and black, fur plumbeous, black at base, then pale cinnamon, then black, then cinereous, with a Ion? black tip; ears bright ferruginous behind, the co- lour extending to the base of the fur, which, in its winter dress, is promi- nent beyond the edge; within dull ferruginous, the fur slightly tipped with black; side of the head and orbits pale ferruginous, cheek under the eye and ear dusky; whiskers black, in about hve series, of which the four in- ferior ones are more distinct, hairs a little Hattened; mouth margined with black; teeth reddish j'ellow: head beneath, neck and feet above pale ferruginous; belly paler; fur pale plumbeous at base; palms black; toes, anterior ones four, the thumb tubercle not longer than its lobe in the palm, and furnished with a broad flat nail; posterior toes five; tail beneath bright ferruginous, the colour extending to the base of the fur, with a submarginal black line; above mixed ferruginous and black; fur within pale cinnamon, with the base and three bands black; tip ferruginous. From nose to tip of tail (exclusive of the hair) 1 foot 7 1-4 inches. Tail, from base to tip ditto 9 1-10 Ear, from head to tip 3-4 The most common species of squirrel on the banks of the Missouri river. It is allied to 5. cinereus, but cannot be considered as a variety of that species; neither does it approach any of the numerous varieties of the very variable S. capistratus of Bosc The fur of the back in the summer dress is from 3-5 to 7-10 of an inch long; but in the winter dress the longest hairs of the middle of the back are 1 inch and 3-4 in length. This difference in the length )f the hairs, combined with a greater portion of fat, gives to the whole animal a thick- er and shorter appearance; but the colours continue the same, and it is only in this latter season that the ears are fringed, which is the neces- sary consequence of the elongation of the hair. This species was not an unfrequent article of food at our frugal yet social meals at Engineer Can- tonment, and we could always immediately distinguish the bones from those of other animals, by their remarkably red colour. The tail is even more voluminous than that of the S. cinereus. It seems to approach the Sc. rvfventer. Geoff, v. Diet. D. Hist. Nat. article Ecu. — p. 104. 1 16 Expedition to the interpreter, and one of the soldiers were at a little distance in the rear, having accompanied him across the country, from Cow Island, where they had arrived five days after our departure. Mr. Say, and Mr. Jessup had been left sick at Cow Island. We encamped immediately, to give those, who were near, an opportunity of joining us. It will now be necessary to return to the time of Mr. Say's depar- ture from Fort Osage, and briefly to trace the progress of his detachment to the place where a rencontre with a war party of Pawnees, frustrated their design, and made it neces- sary for them to rejoin the steam boat. Mr. Say's detachment consisting of twelve men and a boy, furnished with three pack horses for the transportation of baggage, departed from Fort Osage on the evening of Au- gust 6th. Their route lay westward across the woodless plains, about the sources of the Hay Cabin, Blue Water, and Warreruza Creek. The cliffs along the Blue Water are na- ked perpendicular rocks. In the vallies numerous Indian encampments occurred, which appeared not long since to have been occupied. These were most frequently seen at the points, where the streams making almost a complete cir- cuit, and nearly enclosing a small tract of ground, afforded an important protection against the approach of an enemy. The prairies about the head waters of the Warreruza abound in game. Here ravens were first seen by the party, and numbers of large banded rattle-snakes were killed. The blowing flies swarmed in inconceivable numbers, attacking not only the provision of the party, but depositing their eggs upon the blankets, clothing, and even on the furniture of the horses. On the 11th of August they arrived at some ele- vated ridges, from which they overlooked an extensive coun- try, and could trace the whole course of the Wahrengeho, or Full Creek, diverging slightly from the Konzas, and could readily perceive timber upon several of its head branches. The lands between the head waters of Full Creek, and the Konzas are not so good as those about the sources Rocky Mountains . 117 of the Warreruza, and produce less timber. The settle- ment of this region, will be much retarded on account of the want of trees, these being confined to the margins of the water courses, while tracts of valuable soil, of many miles in extent, have not a single tree or bush upon them. The soil is, however, well adapted to the culture of some of our most valuable forest trees. The sugar maple, and several of the most important species of carya, the oaks, the tulip tree, and the linden, would unquestionably succeed. In consequence of the excessive heat of the weather, the great fatigues of the party, and their constant exposure in the open plains, the health of several of them began to be impaired. The high and coarse grasses which now covered the plains greatly impeded their progress, and very rapidly destroy ed their clothing and mockasins. Their journey was, therefore, slow and laborious. On the night of the 13th they encamped on the bank of the Konzas, having travelled some distance parallel to the course of that river. The next day several of the party, already much debilitated, began to be afflicted with dysentery; some accidents also occured to re- tard their progress, and on that and the following day they advanced only two miles. On the 16th they marched about fifteen miles, and encamped on the bank of the Konzas. Being now in doubt, as to the situation of the Konza village, and the illness of some of the party continuing, they determined to remain encamped, while some persons should be sent out to reconnoitre the country, and discover, if possible, whether that part of the river, at which they had arrived, was above or below the village they designed to visit. The Konzas river in this part bears the closest resemblance to the Mis- souri, both in the turbulence and rapidity of its current, and the aspect of the country along its banks; it is, however, so shoal as at almost any point to admit of being forded with- out difficulty. Willow islands, moving sandbars, and falling-in banks, are as frequent as in the Missouri. The line of forest which 118 Expedition to the skirts the banks, including the bed of the river, is about half a mile wide, but not entirely uninterrupted. The course of the river is remarkably serpentine, forming woodland points alternately on both sides. After crossing, and recrossing the river, and extending their search in every direction, they had the satisfaction at last to fall in with a beaten path, leading up the river, and which their guide and interpreter was confident would con- duct them to the Konza village. On the morning of the 1 9th, they passed across a wide and fertile prairie to the Vermillion, a stream which enters the Konzas from the north-west. It is four feet deep, and about twenty yards wide. Here they halted in the middle of the day, and dined on the flesh of a black wolf, the only game they were able to procure. About Vermillion Creek are some open forests of oak, not extending far on either side. The trees are from fifteen to twenty-five feet high, and from one foot to eighteen inches in diameter, standing at a considerable distance from each other. On the day following, the Konza village was descried at a distance. The detachment immediately halted to ar- range their dress, and inspect their fire arms. This was thought the more necessary, as no party of whites had visit- ed the village since a number of the Konzas had received a whipping at Isle au Vache, and it was a matter of doubt, whether the party would meet a friendly reception. As they approached the village, they perceived the tops of the lodges red with the crowds of natives; the chiefs and warriors came rushing out on horseback, painted and de- corated, and followed by great numbers on foot. Mr. Say and his party were received with the utmost cordiality, and conducted into the village by the chiefs, who went before and on each side, to protect them from the encroachments of the crowd. On entering the village the crowd readily gave way before the party, but followed them into the lodge Rocky Mountains, 11 9 assigned to them, and completely and most densely filled the spacious apartment, with the exception only of a small space opposite to the entrance, where the party seated themselves'on the beds, still protected from the pressure of the crowd by the chiefs, who took their seats on the ground immediately before them. After the ceremony of smoking with the lat- ter, the object which the party had in view in passing through their territories was explained to them, and seemed to be perfectly satisfactory. At the lodge of the principal chief, they were regaled with jerked bison meat, and boiled corn, and were afterwards invited to six feasts in immediate succession. Chaboneau and the old Frenchman, who had been despatched from Fort Osage, to summon the Konzas to meet the agent at Isle au Vache, had arrived some days previous; but the nation being at that time absent on a hunt- ing excursion, the interpreters, after reaching the village, had proceeded immediately into the plains in pursuit of them. At the time of the arrival of our detachment, the village was in confusion, the hunters having lately returned, and being then engaged in preparations for the journey to Isle au Vache. Two runners mere despatched to give notice to major OFallon, that his summons had been received; and at the same time the chiefs and principal warriors departed for the place appointed. Before his departure, the principal chief was careful to appoint a fit person to attend Mr. Say's party, and arrangements were made to promote their com- fort and convenience, while they should remain at the vil- lage. Many reports had been circulated among the Konzas, respecting the invitation to council their chiefs had received. They were conscious of having recently offended, by firing on major O1, Fallon, and by insulting and plundering several soldiers of captain Martin's command. For these offences they had been in some measure punished at the time, major OFallon having returned their fire from his boat, and not en- tirely without effect, as was supposed ; several also had been 120 Expedition to the flogged by the orders of captain Martin, yet they did not consider themselves secure from the vengeance of the whites. Many believed that at the time of the anticipated council, barrels of gunpowder were to be placed in the earth to de- stroy them at once. The two runners, who had been despatch- ed, quarrelled before they had gone far ; one saying all the things that had been told them by the interpreters were lies, for which assertion he was struck to the ground by his com- panion. In this situation they were found by the advancing chiefs. Finally a dispute happened between the chiefs them- selves, respecting rank, in consequence of which ten or twelve of them returned to the village. Mr. Say, who spent some time among the Konzas, gives, in his notes, the following account of that nation. " The approach to the village is over a fine level prairie of considerable extent ; passing which, you ascend an abrupt bank of the height of ten feet, to a second level, on which the village is situate in the distance, within about 1-4 of a mile of the river. It consists of about VlO lodges, placed as closely together as convenient, and destitute of any regularity of arrangement. The ground area of each lodge is circular, and is excavated to the depth of from one to three feet, and the general form of the exterior may be denominated hem- ispheric. " The lodge, in which we reside, is larger than any other in the town, and being that of the grand chief, it serves as a council house for the nation. The roof is supported by two series of pillars, or rough vertical posts, forked at top for the reception of the transverse connecting pieces of each series ; twelve of these pillars form the outer series, placed in a circle ; and eight longer ones, the inner series, also describ- ing a circle ; the outer wall, of rude frame work, placed at a proper distance from the exterior series of pillars, is five or six feet high. Poles, as thick as the leg at bastr, rest wi'h their butts upon the wall, extending on the cross pieces, which are Rocky Mountains. 121 upheld by the pillars of the two series, and are of sufficient length to reach nearly to the summit. These poles are very numer- ous, and, agreeably to the position which we have indicated, they are placed all round in a radiating manner, and support the roof like rafters. Across these are laid long and slender sticks or twigs, attached parallel to each other by means of bark cord ; these are covered by mats made of long grass, or reeds, or with the bark of trees ; the whole is then cover- ed completely over with earth, which, near the ground, is banked up to the eaves. A hole is permitted to remain in the middle of the roof to give exit to the smoke. Around the walls of the interior, a continuous series of mats are suspend- ed ; these are of neat workmanship, composed of a soft reed, united by bark cord, in straight or undulated lines, between which, lines of black paint sometimes occur. The bedsteads are elevated to the height of a common seat from the ground, and are about six feet wide ; they extend in an uninterrupted line around three-fourths of the circumference of the apart- ment, and are formed in the simplest manner of numerous sticks, or slender pieces of wood resting at their-ends on cross pieces, which are supported by short notched or forked posts, driven into the ground ; bison skins supply them with a com- fortable bedding. Several medicine or mystic bags are careful- ly attached to the mats of the wall, these are cylindrical, and neatly bound up ; several reeds are usually placed upon them, and a human scalp serves for their fringe and tassels. Of their contents we know nothing. " The fireplace is a simple shallow cavity, in the centre of the apartment, with an upright and a projecting arm for the support of the culinary apparatus. The latter is very simple in kind, and limited in quantity, consisting of a brass kettle, an iron pot, and wooden bowls and spoons ; each person, male as well as female, carries a large knife in the girdle of the breech cloth behind, which is used at their meals, and sometimes for self-defence. During our stay with these In- vol. i. 16 122 Expedition to the dians they ate four or five times each day, invariably supply- ing us with the best pieces, or choice parts, before they attempted to taste the food themselves. " They commonly placed before us a sort of soup, compos- ed of maize of the present season, of that description which, having undergone a certain preparation, is appropriately named sweet corn, boiled in water, and enriched with a few slices of bison meat, grease, and some beans, and to suit it to our palates, it was generally seasoned with rock salt, which is procured near the Arkansa river, "This mixture constituted an agreeable food ; it was serv- ed up to us in large wooden bowls, which were placed on bison robes or mats, on the ground ; as many of us as could conveniently eat from one bowl sat round it, each in as ea- sy a position as he could contrive, and in common we par- took of its contents by means of large spoons made of bison horn. We were sometimes supplied with uncooked dried meat of the bison, also a very agreeable food, and to our taste and reminiscence, far preferable to the flesh of the do- mestic ox. Another very acceptable dish was called leyed corn; this is maize of the preceding season shelled from the cob, and first boiled for a short time in a lej' of wood ashes until the hard skin, which invests the grains, is separated from them ; the whole is then poured into a basket, which is re- peatedly dipped into clean water until the ley and skins are removed ; the remainder is then boiled in water until so soft as to be edible. They also make much use of maize roasted on the cob, of boiled pumpkins, of muskmelons, and water- melons, but the latter are generally pulled from the vine before they are completely ripe. " Ca-ega-wa-tan-ninga, or the Fool Chief, is the here- ditary principal chief, but he possesses nothing like monar- chical authority, maintaining his distinction only by his brave- ry and good conduct. There are ten or twelve inferior chief- tains, or persons who aspire to such dignity, but these do Rocky Mountains. 123 not appear to command any great respect from the people. Civil as well as military distinction arises from bravery or generosity. Controversies are decided amongst themselves ; they do not appeal to their chief, excepting for counsel. They will not marry any of their kindred, however remote. The females, before marriage, labour in the fields, and serve their parents, carry wood and water, and attend to the culinary duties ; when the eldest daughter marries, she commands the lodge, the mother and all the sisters ; the latter are to be also the wives of the same individual. When a young man wishes to marry a particular female, his father gives a feast to a few persons, generally old men, and acquaints them with his design j they repair to the girl, who generally feigns an unwillingness to marry, and urges such reasons as her poverty, youth, &c. — the old men are often obliged to re- turn six or seven times before they can effect their object — wben her consent is obtained, the parents qf the young man take two or three blankets and some meat to the parents of the female that they may feast, and immediately return to theirlodge. The parents put on the meat to cook, and place the same quantity of meat and merchandize on two horses, and dress their daughter in the best garments they can afford ; she mounts one of the horses, and leads the other, and is preced- ed by a crier announcing, with a loud voice, the marriage of the young couple, naming them, to the people ; in this way she goes to the habitation of her husband, whose parents take from her every thing she brings, strip her entirely na- ked, di-ess her again in clothes as good as she brought, fur- nish her with two other horses, with meat and merchandize, and she returns with her crier to her parents. These two horses she retains as her own, together with all the articles she brings back with her. Her parents then make a feast, to which they invite the husband, his parents and friends ; the young couple are seated together, and all then partake of the good cheer, after which the father of the girl makes a ha- 124 Expedition to the rangue, in which he informs the young man that he must no^ assume the command of the lodge, and of every thing belonging to him and his daughter. All the merchandize which the bride returned with, is distributed in presents from herself to the kindred of her husband in their first visit. The husband then invites the relatives of his wife to a feast. Whatever peltries the father possesses are at the disposal of the son to trade with on his own account ; and in every re- spect the parents, in many instances, become subservient to the } oung man. " After the death of the husband the widow scai-ifies her- self, rubs her person with clay, and becomes negligent of her dress until the expiration of a year, when the eldest brother of the deceased takes her to wife without any cere- mony, considers her children as his own, and takes her and them to his house ; if the deceased left no brother, she mar- ries whom she pleases. They have, in some instances, four or five wives , but these are mostly sisters ; if they marry into two families the wives do not harmonize well together, and give the husband much inquietude ; there is, however, no restriction in this respect, except in the prudence of the husband. The grandfather and grandmother are very fond of their grandchildren, but these have very little respect for them. The female children respect and obey their parents j but the males are very disobedient, and the more obstinate they are and the less readily they comply with the com- mands of their parents, the more the latter seem to be pleas- ed, saying * he will be a brave man, a great warrior, he will not be controlled.' " The attachment of fraternity is as strong, if not stronger, than with us. The niece has great deference for the uncle. The female calls her mother's sister mother, and her mother's brother uncle. The male calls his father's brother father, his father's sister aunt, his mother's sister mother, and his mother's brother uncle. Thirteen children have oc- Rocky Mountains. 125 curred in one family. A woman had three children at a birth, all lived. " The young men are generally coupled out as friends ; the tie is very permanent, and continues often throughout life. " They bear sickness and pain with great fortitude, seldom uttering a complaint ; bystanders sympathize with them, and try every means to relieve them. Insanity is unknown ; the blind are taken care of by their friends and the nation gene- rally, and are well dressed and fed. Drunkenness is rare, and is much ridiculed ; a drunken man is said to be bereft of his reason, and is avoided. As to the origin of the nation, their belief is, that the Master of life formed a man, and placed him on the earth ; he was solitary and cried to the Master of life for a companion, who sent him down a woman ; from the union of these two proceeded a son and daughter, who were married, and built themselves a lodge distinct from that of their parents ; all the nations proceeded from them, excepting the whites, whose origin they pretend not to know. When a man is killed in battle the thunder is suppos- ed to take him up, they do not know where. In going to battle each man traces an imaginary figure of the thunder on the soil ; and he who represents it incorrectly is killed by the thunder. A person saw this thunder one day on the ground, with a beautiful mockasin on each side of it ; having much need of a pair, he took them and went his way ; but on his return by the same spot the thunder took him off, and he has not been since heard of. They seem to have vague notions of the future state. They think that a brave warrior, or good hunter, will walk in a good path ; but a bad man or coward will find a bad path. Thinking the deceased has far to travel they bury with his body, mockasins, some articles of food, &c. to support him on the journey. Many persons, they believe, have become reanimated, who had been, during their apparent death, in strange villages ; but as the inhabitants used them ill they returned. They say they have never seen 126 Expedition to the the Master of life, and therefore cannot pretend to personify him ; but they have often heard him speak in the thnnder ; they wear often a shell which is in honour, or in representa- tion of him, but they do not pretend that it resembles him, or has any thing in common with his form, organization, or dimensions. " This nation having been at profound peace with the Osa- ges since the year 1806, (see Pike, p. 144.J have intermar- ried freely with them, so that in stature, features and customs they are more and more closely approaching that people. They are large and symmetrically well formed, with the usual high cheek bones, the nose more or less aquiline, colour reddish coppery, the hair black and straight. Their wo- men are small and homely, with broad faces. We saw but a single squaw in the village who had any pretensions to beauty ; she was recently married to an enterprizing warrior, who invited us to a feast, apparently in order to exhibit his prize to us. The ordinary dress of the men is a breech cloth of blue or red cloth, secured in its place by a girdle; a pair of leggins, made of dressed deer skin, concealing the leg, excepting a small portion of the upper part of the thigh ; a pair of mockasins made of dressed deer, elk, or bison skin, not ornamented ; and a blanket to cover the upper part of the body, often thrown over one arm in hot weather, leaving that part naked ; or it is even entirely thrown aside. The outer cartilage of the ear is cut through in three places, and upon the rims, thus separated, various ornaments are sus- pended, such as wampum, string beads, silver or tin trinkets, &c. The hair of most of their chiefs and warriors is scru- pulously removed from the head, being careful however to leave enough, as in honour they are bound to do, to supply their enemy with a scalp, in case they should be vanquished. This residuum consists of a portion on the back of the head of about the breadth of the hand, rounded at its upper ter- mination near the top of the head, the sides rectilinear, and Rocky Mountains. 127 nearly parallel, though slightly approaching each other towards the origin of the neck, where it abruptly terminates ; on the exterior margin, the hair is somewhat longer and erect ; this strip of hair is variously decorated ; it is some- times coloured on the margin with vermillion, sometimes a tail feather of the war eagle is attached transversely with respect to the head ; this feather is white at base, and black at tip ; but the principal ornament, which appears to be worn by some of their chief warriors, and which is at the same time by far the most handsome, is the tail of the common deer; this is attached by the base near to the top of the patch of hair, the back of it resting on the hair, and the tip secured near the termination of the patch ; the bristly hair of the tail is dyed red by a beautiful permanent colour, and parted longitudinally in the middle by a broad silver plate, which is attached at top, and suffered to hang loose. Many of them are tattooed on different parts of the body. The young boys are entirely naked, with the exception of a girdle gene- rally of cloth, round their protruding abdomen. This part of the body in the children of this nation is remarkably promi- nent ; it is more particularly so when they are very young, but gradually subsides as they advance in age. In hot wea- ther the men, whilst in the village, generally use fans, with which they cool themselves, when in the shade, and protect their heads from the sun whilst walking out ; they are made of the wing or tail of the turkey. The women rarely use them. The dress of the female is composed of a pair of mockasins, leggins of blue or red cloth, with a broad pro- jecting border on the outside, and covering the leg to the knee or a little above ; many, however, and perhaps almost a majority of them, do not in common wear this part of the dress. Around the waist, secured by a belt or cestus, is wrapped a piece of blue cloth, the sides of which meet, or come nearly in contact on the outside of the right thigh, and the whole extends downward as far as the knee, or to 128 Expedition to the the mid-leg ; around the left shoulder is a similar piece of cloth, which is attached, by two of the corners, at the axilla of the right arm and extends downward as far as the waist. This garment is often laid aside, when the body, from the waist upward, is entirely exposed. Their hair is suffered to grow long ; it is parted longitudinally on the top of the head, and flows over the shoulders, the line of separation being coloured with vermillion. The females, like those of other aborigines, cultivate the maize, beans, pumpkins, and water- melons, gather and prepare the two former, when ripe, and pack them away in skins, or in mats, for keeping ; prepare the flesh of the bison, by drying, for preservation ; attend to all the cooking j bring wood and water ; an d in other respects manage the domestic concerns, and appear to have over them absolute sway. These duties, as far as we could observe, they not only willingly performed as a mere matter of duty, but they exhibited in their deportment a degree of pride and ambition to acquit themselves well ; in this respect resemb- ling a good housewife amongst the civilized fair. Many of them are tattooed. ** Both sexes, of all ages, bathe frequently, and enter the water indiscriminately. The infant is washed in cold water soon after its birth, and the ablution is frequently repeated ; the mother also bathes with the same fluid soon after delive- ry. The infant is tied down to a board, after the manner of many of the Indian tribes. " The chastity of the young females is guarded by the mother with the most scrupulous watchfulness, and a viola- tion of it is a rare occurrence, as it renders the individual unfit for the wife of a chief, a brave warrior, or good hunter. To wed her daughter to one of these, each mother is solici- tous ; as these qualifications offer the same attractions to the Indian mother as family and fortune exhibit to the civilized parent. In the nation, however, are several courtezans; and during our evening walks we were sure to meet with re- Rocky Mountains, J 29 spectable Indians who thought pimping no disgrace. Sodomy is a crime not uncommonly committed ; many of the subjects of it are publicly known, and do not appear to be despised, or to excite disgust ; one of them was pointed out to us : he had submitted himself to it, in consequence of a vow he had made to his mystic medicine, which obliged him to change his dress for that of a squaw, to do their work, and to permit his hair to grow. The men carefull} pluck from their chins, axilla of the arms, eye brows, and pubis, every hair of beard that presents itself : this is done with a spiral wire, which, when used, is placed with the side upon the part, and the ends are pressed towards each other so as to close the spires upon the hairs, which can then be readily drawn out 5 this instrument we observed to be an article of dress of the chiefs, who departed to attend the council at the Isle au Vacho. vol. i. 17 CHAPTER VII. Further account of the Konza nation — Robbery of Mr. Say's detachment by a war party of Paxunees — Arrival at the Platte. The Konza warriors, like those of some others of the Missouri tribes, on their departure on a war excursion, some- times make vows, binding themselves never to return until they have performed some feat which they mention, such as killing an enemy, striking an enemy's dead body, or stealing a horse. An instance lately occurred, of a warrior who had been long absent under a vow of this sort, and finding it im- possible to meet an enemy, and being in a starving condition, he returned to his own village by night, with the determina- tion of accomplishing his vow, by killing and scalping the first person he should meet. This person happened to be the warrior's own mother, but the darkness of the night prevent- ed the discovery until he had accomplished his bloody pur- pose. On the 23d of August, Mr. Say's party began to prepare for leaving the Konza village, where they had been treated with much hospitality. They purchased a number of articles for their use on the journey they proposed to take, such as jerked bison meat, pounded maize, bison fat put up like sausages, mockasins, leggings, spoons made of the horn of the bison, two large wooden dishes, &c. They received also an addition to their cavalcade of two horses, one belonging to Maj. O Fallon, and another which they procured from a Frenchman residing in the village. Expedition, £s?c. itfl A Pawnee prisoner, an interesting young man, was brought to them, who said he was desirous to accompany them to his nation, but at the same time, was afraid his people would not recognize him, and would kill him for a Kouza. He was promised protection, but at the same time it was remarked to him, that if he should attempt to steal the horses of the party on the way, they would certainly pursue him and take his scalp. On the 24th, says Mr. Say, having been detained until after- noon in searching for our horses, we departed, accompanied by several Indians, who intended to pass the night with us, and to return to the village the following morning. Our path led along the margin of Blue Earth creek, a stream of the width of twenty- five yards, and greatest depth of three feet, which discharges into the river a mile or two above the Konza village. The soil supports but a thin growth of grass, and the timber is far from abundant, consisting principally of different sorts of oak, confined to the margin of the creek, its ravines and tributaries. One of our Indian followers, who, although a chief of the extinct Mis- souri nation, has yet much influence with the Konzas, wish- ed to exchange a horse he had with him, for one of ours, which was evidently a less valuable animal. The reason he assigned, in explanation of his desire, of such an apparently disadvantageous exchange was, that his horse had been pre- sented to him by a person, who, he feared, intended to re- claim him, but that if he should exchange him for another horse, he would be secure in the possession of the individual so obtained, as an Indian will not reclaim a present which is not identically the same he had given. At the distance of seven miles from the village, our party encamped by the side of the creek, in a narrow but beautiful, and level prairie bot- tom, which was bounded by an abrupt, though verdant, range of bluffs. 132 Expedition to the Mr. Dougherty and one of the Indians went in quest of game, and having supplied the two remaining Indians with a pipe and tobacco, we were partaking of some refreshment, when one of the party suddenly drew our attention to an exten- sive cloud of dust, which arose from the plain, and which we soon perceived but partially concealed a body of Indians, who had already approached within a quarter of a mile, and were now running with great swiftness. Our Indian followers now displayed all their activity; the chief seized his gun, and ran towards the advancing multitude to obtain his horse, which he mounted and rode off at full speed, whilst his companion disappeared in the bushes in an instant. This was a sufficient intimation that a hostile party was before us, and a timely admonition of the approach of danger. Our men were there- fore drawn up in aline, and all prepared themselves for de- fence in case of extremity. The advancing party were armed, decorated and painted for battle, but they manifested, as they rushed up to us, the most pacific deportment, shaking us by the hand, putting their arms about our necks, and raising their hands with the palm towards us, in token of peace. We were not, however, dis- posed to rely upon these assurances of friendship, being fully aware of the difficulties which their partizans would have to surmount, in checking the inconsiderate prowess of the young- er warriors. We now observed some of them seizing our horses, which were staked at some distance :. they mounted them and rode swiftly in the direction that the chief had ta- ken, but they soon returned. It soon became necessary to protect our baggage by arranging ourselves around it; still, however, in despite of our vigilance many cf our small arti- cles were stolen. They begged for whiskey and tobacco, and a small portion of the latter was given them. Amidst the con- fusion arising from the incessant and rapid movements of the Indians, we observed an individual bearing off a small pack- age of very fine pounded meat; I immediately pointed out the Rocky Mountains. 133 circumstance to the partizan, and directed him to recover it and punish the thief; he complied by wresting the meat from the grasp of the latter, and from that of several others who had been contending for portions of it, placed it beneath his feet, and defended it with his lance; but Chabonneau, to whom the meat belonged, declaring that he had given it to them, they were permitted to retain it. A tent which had been pitched for me in consideration of my illness, and in which my blanket, pistols, together with some small articles had been deposited, was plundered of its contents; it was finally cut down and would have been taken away, had we not made an effort to preserve it. During the whole transaction those war- riors, who stood at a short distance, intently watched our movements, as if they were led to believe, from the attitude we assumed, that we would attempt to repel them, even with our inadequate force. No sudden action or motion of any one of the party escaped them, and individuals were fre- quently observed to draw their arrows, to test the elasticity of the bows. At a critical juncture, a tall and graceful In- dian cocked his gun fiercely, and put his war whistle to his mouth, but the signal was not blown. Amongst numerous in- cidents that occurred during the half hour that we were sur- rounded by them, an individual attempted to seize a knap- sack belonging to one of the soldiers, and immediately un- der his observation; the latter placed his foot upon the knap- sack to detain it, and at the same time prepared his gun as if to shoot the offender, who leaped backward with great agility, and with an ejaculation of pleasure, drew his arrow to the head. The whole party precipitately retreated just as Mr. Dougherty returned from hunting; being briefly in- formed of the nature of their visit, he called aloud to the fu- gitives in their own language, but they passed on without heeding him, taking our horses with them. I had by a rough estimate fixed their number at one hundred and forty; the\ were chiefly armed with the bow and arrow and lance, with 134 Expedition to the the usual accompainments of tomahawks, war- clubs and knives, together with a few guns. Fortunately no personal indignity was offered us, yet we could not repress a sensation of much mortification, at the prospect of a frustration of our enterprise, which now seemed inevitable, and of extreme vexation at the irreparable loss of our horses, which no ex- ertions of ours could have saved: an appeal to arms, except in the last extremity, would have heen the height of impru- dence, conquest being hopeless and escape almost impossi- ble. Soon after their departure Mr. Jessup and Chabonneau, set out for the village to procure assistance, for the purpose of removing our camp to that place from which we recom- menced our journey at amoment so unpropitious, whilst webu- sied ourselves in removing the baggage to a situation amongst the neighbouring bushes, which appeared favourable for con- cealment, and for defence, in case of a night attack, which was confidently anticipated. Several alarms occured during the night, and on the return of day we observed thirty mounted Indians riding swiftly towards us. The chief, who left us so precipitately the preceding evening, on his arrival at the village, hastily assembled a little band of warriors for the purpose of returning immediately to our assistance, and it was he and his party, that we had now the pleasure to greet. They expressed great satisfaction, when they learned that we were all uninjured. After saluting us cordially, they pursued the trail of the Pawnees for some distance, and from the footsteps in the grass, and other appearances, to be duly appreciated only by the eye of an Indian, they estimated the number of the Pawnees at 130. On their return they restor- ed to us some bacon and other articles, which had been car- ried off by the fugitives, and rejected as not at all to their taste. We were now supplied with a conveyance for cur- selves and our baggage, and were conducted back to the village. Rocky Mountains. 135 The Indians who committed this robbery, were a war party of the Republican Pawnees, and were about one hundred and forty in number. Their nation was at war with the Konzas. Mr. Say's party were kindly received at the village they had left on the preceding day. In the evening they had re- tired to rest in the lodge set apart for their accommodation, when they were alarmed by a party of savages, rushing in armed with bows, arrows and lances, shouting and yelling in a most frightful manner. The gentlemen of the party had im- mediate recourse to their arms, but observing that some squaws, who were in the lodge, appeared unmoved, they be- gan to suspect that no molestation to them was intended. The Indians collected around the lire in the centre of the lodge, yelling incessantly; at length their howlings assumed some- thing of a measured tone, and they began to accompany their voices with a sort of drum and rattles. After singing for some time, one who appeared to be their leader, struck the post over the fire with his lance, and they all began to dance, keeping very exact time with the music. Each war- rior had, besides his arms, and rattles made of strings of deer's hoofs, some part of the intestines of an animal inflated, and inclosing a few small stones, which produced a sound like pebbles in a gourd shell. After dancing round the fire for some time, without appearing to notice the strangers, they departed, raising the same wolfish howl, with which they had entered ; but their music and their yelling continued to be heard about the village during the night. This ceremony, called the dog dance, was performed by the Konzas for the entertainment of their guests. Mr. Sey- mour took an opportunity to sketch the attitudes and dresses of the principal figures. See the annexed plate. Finding it impracticable to obtain horses by purchase, out of their almost exhausted stock of merchandize, to enable them to prosecute their march to Council Bluff, after due de- liberation, they saw no alternative, but to endeaveur to hire 136 Expedition to the horses on credit, and to make the best of their way for Cow Island, in hopes of meeting the steam boat there. A French- man, Mr. Gunville, resident with this nation, agreed to fur- nish two pack horses, and a saddle horse for Mr. Say, whose state of health would not admit of his continuing the journey on foot. Thus furnished they prepared to depart, and in the meantime two runners were dispatched to inform Major Long of their situation by letter. On the 25th of August, Mr. Say and his party again left the Konza village, accompanied by the French trader, who had furnished them two horses, and by a Missouri Indian ; but this last had followed them only a few miles, when he repented of his undertaking and returned. In pursuing the most direct route from the Konza village to the Missouri, they crossed at the distance of seventeen miles, the Vermillion, a small stream bordered with hand- some forests. Nineteen miles beyond this they arrived at the sources of Grasshopper creek, where they encamped on the evening of the 27th. Here the soil changes somewhat abrupt- ly. The high Prairies about the Vermillion and Blue Earth creeks are barren, almost naked, and inhabited by some or- bicular lizards. About Grasshopper creek the soil is fertile, the grass dense and luxuriant. On the 29th they arrived at Isle au Vache, and were hos- pitably received by Col. Morgan and the officers of his com- mand, but had the mortification to learn that major Long, after waiting a sufficient time to enable the Indian agent to complete his negotiations with the Konzas,had departed with the steam boat before the arrival of the messengers, that hud been sent to notify him of their disaster. These runners had been despatched immediately after their arrival, with instruc- tions*© overtake the steam boat, and to deliver Mr. Say's letter, but after some days they returned, without having been able to effect any thing. It was now determined that Mr. Say and Mr. Jessup, who Rocky Mountains. 137 on account of ill health, were unable to travel farther on foot, should for the present remain at Isle au Vache, while the other gentlemen of the detachment, should continue their jour- ney. Mr. Dougherty, from his intimate acquaintance with the country, was of opinion that by crossing in the nearest direction from Isle au Vache to the mouth of Wolf river, they might yet overtake the steam boat. They accordingly placed themselves under his guidance, and by great exertion, fortu- nately arrived at the mouth of Wolf river, on the evening of the 1st of September, as the steam boat was passing. The country southwest of the Missouri, between the Kon- zas and the Platte, is drained principally by Wolf river and the Great Nemahaw. These rivers, like the Nodowa and Nishnebottona, which enter the Missouri nearly opposite them, from the northeast, rise in the prairies at an elevation probably of forty or fifty feet above the level of the Missouri,, As they descend, their vallies becoming gradually wider, em- bosom a few trees, and at length, near their entrance into the Missouri valley, are forests of considerable extent. The sur- face of these prairies presents a constant succession of small rounded hills, becoming larger and more abrupt, as you ap- proach the beds of the rivers. The soil is deep, reposing usually on horizontal beds of argillaceous sandstone, and se- condary limestone. In all the limestones along the Missouri, we observe a tendency to crystalline structure, and they have often a reddish or yellowish white colour. There is however always something in the arrangement and in the aspect of the crystals, to distinguish these sparry varieties from the primitive granular limestone, to which thev have something of general resemblance. The horizontal disposition of the strata of this limestone, the great numbers of organic relics contained in it, and its intimate connexion with coal strata, indicate with sufficient clearness its relation to the secondary rocks. No person who shall examine this stratum with the least attention either about the Nemahaw and the 'Konzas, vot, i. 18 ** 138 Expedition to the or in the mining district at the sources of the Gasconade, the Meramt-g, and the St. Francis, will for a moment mistake it for any of those varieties of transition or primitive limestone, which it in some respects so closely resembles. The crystal- line varieties, no less than the compact blue limestones, em- brace numerous masses of chert or hornstone. This occurs of various colours, and these are arranged in spots or stripes. Some specimens have several distinct colours arranged in, zigzag lines, somewhat resembling the fortification agate. The hunters use fragments of this stone for gun flints; the savages also formerly employed it in the manufacture of ar- row points and other implements.* The soil superimposed upon these strata of limestone, is a calcareous loam. Near the rivers it is intermixed with sand; this is also the case with the soil of the high prairies about the Konzas village. In ascending the Konzas river, one hundred, or one hundred and twenty miles from the Mis- souri, you discover numerous indications, both in the soil, and its animal and vegetable productions of an approach to the borders of that great Sandy Desert, which stretches east- ward from the base of the Rocky Mountains. You meet there with the orbicular lizard or " horned frog," an inha- bitant of the arid plains of New Mexico. You distinguish also some cacti, as well as many of those plants allied to chenopodium, andsalsola, which delight in a thirsty muriati- ferous soil. The catalogue of the forest trees belonging to the vallies of this region is not very copious. The cotton wood, and the plane tree, every where form conspi- cuous features of the forests. With these are intermixed the tall and graceful acacia, the honey locust, and the bonduc or coffee tree,f and several species of juglans, carya and . * Jessun's MS. Report. f The Guilaudina *!ioiea of I. inn. Marshall, &c. hut referred by Micbaux to the new genus Gymnocladas of which it is the only well ascertain- Rocky Mountains, 1^9 fraxinus, with pinnated or many-parted leaves. Trees of the family of the conifers are not of frequent occurrence on the .Missouri. About the summits of rocky cliffs are here and there a few cedars or junipers, the only trees that retain their verdure during the winter. The prairies, for many miles on each side of the Missouri, produce abundance of good pasturage ; but as far as our ob- servation has extended, the best soil is a margin from ten to twelve miles in breadth, along the western bank of the river. In the summer very little water is to be found in the prairies, all the smaller streams failing, even though the season be not unusually dry. On account of the want of wood and of water, the settlements will be, for a long time, con- fined to the immediate vallies of the Missouri, the Konzas, and the larger rivers ; but it is probable, forests will hereafter be cultivated in those vast woodless regions, which now form so great a proportion of the country ; and wells may be made to supply the»deficiency of running water. We have seen at Bellefontain, as well as at several other points on this river, a pretty species of sparrow, which is altogether new to us ;* and several specimens of a serpent ed species. It is common throughout the western states and terri- tories, and io Canada, where it is called by the French Chicot, or stump tree, from the nakedness of its appearance in winter. In the English, gardens, where it has been cultivated many years under the name of the Hardy Bonduc,it has attained considerable magnitude, but has not hither- to been known to produce flowers. * Fringilla grammacn. Say. Above blackish- brown- head lineated; beneath white, a black line fro ; the inferior base of the inferior man- dible, above this a dilated white line; from the angle of the mouth proceeds a black line, which is much dilated and ferruginous behind the eye, and terminates in a contracted black line; a black line from the eye to the superior mandible enclosed, as well as the eye, by a dilated white line which is more contracted behind the eye; top of the head with two dilated lines, which are black on the front and ferruginous on the crown and hind head, and separated from each other by a cinereous line; inter- scapulars and lesser wing coverts margined with dull cinereous or brown- ish; wings dusky brown, a white spot on the outer webs of the second, third, 140 Expedition to the have occurred, which has considerable affinity with the pine snake of the Southern States or bull snake of Bartram.* and fourth primaries, near their bases; back dirty olive-brown; tail round- ed; tail feathers twelve, blackish brown, two intermediate ones immacu- late, adjoining- ones with a small white spot at tip, which, on the lateral ones, increases in size until on the exterior one it occupies half of the total length of the feather; the exterior web of the outer feather is white to its base; chin and throat white: neck and breast dull cinereous; abdomen and vent white; feet pale, tinged with orange; nail of the middle toe slightly dilated on the inner side. Length six and a quarter inches. Shot at Bellefontain on the Missouri. Many specimens were obtain- ed. The auricuJars of the female are yellowish brown. They run upon the ground like a lark, seldom fly into a tree, and sing sweetly. They were subsequently observed at Engineer cantonment. * Coluber obsoletns. Say. Body black above, beneath whitish with large subquadrate black spots, which are confluent and pale bluish towards the tail ; throat and neck pure white; sidesbetween the scales with red marks. Description. Body black; anterior half with a series of continuous, dilated dull red large circles, formed upon the skin between the scales, on the side; on many of the scales, are white marginal dashes near their bases; these scales are placed in groups each side of the vertebra of the anterior moiety of the body; scales bipunctured at tip; beneath flat, so as to produce an angle or carnia each side; white slightly tinged with yellow- ish red, irrorate with black points, and spotted with large oblong quadrate marks, which gradually become more continuous, confluent and plum- beous towards the tail, occupying nearly the whole surface; head beneath and throat pure white; posterior canthus of the eye two scaled; iris black- ish; pupil deep blued -black, inclosed by a silvery line. One specimen, PI. 228— Sc. 67? Another do. do. 233— do. 84 Another do. do. 228— do. 84 Total length — 4 feet 11 5-8 inches Tail do. do. 10 1-8 do. The lateral red marks are not perceptible unless the skin be dilated so as to separate the scales, and the small white marginal lines on the bases of some of the scales are observable only on close inspection. It varies in being nearly or quite destitute of spots on the anterior portion of the body beneath, but the posterior half of the inferior surface still re- mains blackish. The whole animal bears strong resemblance to C. con- strictor^ but the scales are decidedly smaller,jand the number of its plates and scales approach it stilt more closely to that uncertain species C. ovivorus. It is not an uncommon species on the Missouri from the vicinity of Isle au Vache to Council Bluff. Penis terminated by a hemisphere, covered with compressed, white spines, which are reflected at tip; the series interrupted on the posterior side of the member by a canal; it is much dilated, dark reddish brown, abruptly contracted at base from the exterior side, and with a prominent tubercle on the middle of the inner side; length one inch aad a quarter, width about seven-sixteenths of an inch. Rocky Mountains. 141 Having received on board the detachment that had arriv- ed from the Konza village, except Messrs. Say and Jessup, who, on account of ill health, remained at Isle au Vache, we left the mouth of Wolf River on the 2nd of September. A party of hunters, furnished with a horse for the transporta- tion of game, were despatched at the same time with instruc- tions to hunt on the south side of the river, and to join us again in the evening. We had little difficulty in procuring a constant supply of venison. Deer are very numerous on this part of the Missouri, and we had several opportunities to kill them from on board, as they were swimming across the river. Twenty-one miles above the mouth of Wolf River, and on the same side, is the entrance of the Grand Nemahaw, a considerable river, which rises in the plains between the Platte and the Republican Fork of the Konzas river, and running eastwardly about one hundred and fifty miles, dis- charges into the Missouri a little north of latitude forty de- grees. In the straightness of its course, the rapidity and turbulence of its stream, it has a general resemblance to the other western tributaries of the Missouri. A few miles above the Nemahaw, and on the opposite side is the mouth of the Tarkio a smaller stream. On the 4th of September we were joined by the hunters, who brought two deer, and informed us they had killed several others. Lieutenant Field's boat was allowed to re- main at the encampment of the preceding night, after the departure of the steam boat, for the purpose of taking on board a large quantity of honey. Swarms of bees were found here in great numbers, and the honey they afforded made a valuable addition to our provisions, consisting now in a great measure of hunters' fare. Finding one of the valves of the steam engine much worn and leaky, we were now under the necessity of stopping for a day to have a new one, which we had brought, adapted to 142 Expedition to the its place. Several of the men amused themselves by hunt- ing and fishing. We had now a plentiful supply of game, and many large catfish were taken, some of them weighing more than fifty pounds. We passed in succession the mouths of the Nishnebottona, and the Little Nemahaw, and arrived on the 7th at the Grand Pass. Here the Nishnebottona, a beautiful river about sixty yards wide, approaches within one hundred and fifty yo. Is of the Missouri, being separated from it by a sandy prairie, rising scarcely twenty feet above the surface of the water. After pursuing for a short distance a parallel course, the two rivers diverge, and the Nishnebottona meanders along the side of the Missouri valley, about sixty miles, to its confluence with the latter river. From this point is a pleas- ing view of the hills called the Bald Pated Prairie, stretching along the north-eastern side of the Nishnebottona, and di- minished to the size of ant-hills in the distant perspective. Here the navigation is much obstructed by sandbars, and the ordinary current of the Missouri, according to the state- ment of Lewis and Clark, corroborated by our observation, is something more than one fathom per second.* In many places the Missouri hurries across concealed sandbars and other obstructions, with the velocity of seven, eight or even twelve feet in a second, f Between these obstructions, the channel becomes deeper, and the current more moderate; consequently the aggregate velocity at times of low water may be reckoned something less than six feet to the second. As the volume of water is increased by the heavy rains, and * Lewis and Clark, p. 28. vol. i. •f- This velocity of current is equalled by that of the Cassiquiare in South America, and probably surpassed by the Oronoko, the averag-e de- scent of whose bed is thirteen inches to the mile of 950 toises, (6 feet.4. 376 inches per toise.) See Humb. Pers. Nar. vol. 5, p. 637, and vol. 4, p. 452. La Condamine and major Rennel suppose the mean descent of the Amazon and the Ganges, scarce four or fivr inches to the mile, which is about equal to that of the Mississippi, according to the most satisfactory estimates we have been able to make. Rocky Mountains. 143 ihe melting of the snows within the Rocky Mountains, the cunent is proportionally accelerated, and becomes more equable, running for many miles in succession, not less than seven hundred and twenty feet per minute. At the time of our ascent the summer floods had not entirely subsided, and in contending against the current, we found occasion in a few instances to make use of the towing rope. About thirtetn miles above the Grand Pass, is a point where Lewis and Clark witnessed the falling of a portion, about three-fourths of a mile in length, of a high cliff of sand- stone and clay. Appearances have considerably changed since the time of their journey. There is still an indentation along the bluff, showing the upper part of the portion which had slid down, but the whole is now covered with grass. The river has retired from the base of the cliff it was then undermining. A grassy plain, of some extent, occupies the spot where the bed of the river must have been; but this prairie is, in its turn, experiencing the vicissitude incident to every thing along the bank of the Missouri, and is evidently very soon to disappear entirely. A mile or two above this point are cliffs of sandstone and indurated clay, in a state of rapid disintegration. Here we observed extensive beds of aluminous earth, of a dark gray colour, alternating with red and yellowish white sandstone. Here are also numerous vegetable remains, which Mr. Say thought to consist of the limbs of trees included in the rock, carbonized and often in- termixed with pyrites; smaller limbs in short fragments lay intermixed, and crossing each other" in every direction. Among other things, we observed here what appeared to be the cast of the seed vessel of the nelumbium, of uncom- mon magnitude. Fragments of mineral coal were observed scattered about the surface. • The mouth of the Platte* where we arrived on the 15th of September, is, according to our observations, in latitude 41* 3' 13" ntrth. We shall hereafter have occasion to speak 144 Expedition to the more particularly of this river. Its mouth now exhibited a great extent of naked sandbars, the water, which was trans- parent and. of a greenish colour, flowing almost unseen through a number of small channels. Masses of sand accu- mulate at the mouth of the Platte, rendering the navigation of the Missouri at that point extremely difficult. The Platte, during its floods, pours into the Missouri a volume of water, considerably exceeding in magnitude that of the lat- ter river, occasioning a reflux of the waters for many miles. From the Platte upward, the annual range from high to low water in the Missouri, may be rated at about eighteen feet. Above the Platte, the scenery of the Missouri becomes mush more interesting. The bluffs on each side are more elevated and abrupt, and being absolutely naked, rising into conic points, split by innumerable ravines, they have an im- posing resemblance to groups of high granitic mountains, seen at a distance. The forests within the valley, are of small extent, interspersed with wide meadows covered with Carices and Cyperaceae, with some species of Limnetis, Polypogon, and Arundo, sometimes sinking into marshes occupied by Saggittarias, Alismas, and others of the Hydro- charidse. The woodlands here, as on the whole of the Mis- souri below, are filled with great numbers of pea vines,* which afford an excellent pasturage for horses and cattle. The roots of the Apios tuberosa were much sought after, and eaten by the soldiers, who accompanied us in our as- cent. They are little tubers about half an inch in diameter, and when boiled are very agreeable to the taste. Two and an half miles above the mouth of the Platte, and on the same side, is that of the Papilion, a stream of considerable length, but discharging little water. Here we found two boats belonging to the Indian traders at St. Louis. They had • * Species of Apios, the Glycine of Lin. Rocky Mountains. 145 passed us some days before, and were to remain for the winter at the mouth of the Papilion, to iradt: with ihe Otoes, Missouries, and other Indians. The banks of the Missouri above the Platte, have long been frequented by the Indians, eittier as places of perma- nent or occasional residence. Deserted encampments are often seen. On the northeast side, near the mouth of Mos- quito river, are the remains of an old loway village. Four miles above, and on the opposite side, was formerly a village of the Otoes. On the 17th September, we arrived at the trading establishment of the Missouri fur company, known as Fort Lisa, and occupied by Mr. Manuel Lisa, one of the most active persons engaged in the Missouri fur trade. We were received by a salute from this establishment, and encamped a little above, on the same side of the river. vol. i. 19 CHAPTER VIII. rf inter Cantonment near Council Bluff- — Councils xvith the Otoes, Missouries, loxvays, Paxvnees, &c. The position selected for the establishment of winter quarters for the exploring party, was on the west bank of the Missouri, about half a mile above Fort Lisa, five miles below Council Bluff, and three miles above the mouth of Boyer's river. At this place we anchored on the 19th Sep- tember, and in a few days, had made great progress in cut- ting timber, quarrying stone, and other preparations for the construction of quarters. Cliffs of sparry limestone rise in the rear of the site we had selected, to an elevation of near three hundred feet.* At times of low water, strata of horizontal sandstone, are disclosed in the bed of the Missouri. These pass under and support the limestone. Both these strata probably ex- tend in connexion, some distance to the west ; but as they are deeply covered with soil, we could not accurately ascertain their boundary in that direction. On the map accompany- ing the second volume of this work, we have traced a line running from the Canadian river of the Arkansa, to the Elk Horn, between 96° and 98° west longitude, and mark- ing what we supposed nearly the westernmost limit of the horizontal limestones, and the argillaceous sandstones, dis- closed in the beds of the larger rivers. Both these strata, embrace numerous relicks of marine animals, many of which we collected.f * Height of the bluff ascertained by Lieut. Graham; Trigonometrically, ... 271 feet. Barometrically, - - - . 277 f We add some notices of a few of the most important. 1. Terebratula. — A specimen considerably resembling the T. subunda- Expedition, &c. 147 Immediately after our arrival, an interpreter had been sent across the country, to intercept the traders, then on their way to the Pawnees, with considerable quantities of merchandize. It was thought proper to suspend all inter- la of Sowcrby, in the nodulated line of the edges of the valves ; but it is a much more depressed shell, and of a much less rounded form. In the youn Expedition to the agreeably to our custom of honouring brave or distinguished persons." After a suitable reply, by Major O'Fallon, the amusement of dancing was commenced by the striking up of their rude instrumental and vocal music ; the former consisting of a gong made of a large keg, over one of the ends of which a skin was stretched, which was struck by a small stick ; and another instrument consisting of a stick of firm wood, notch- ed like a saw, over the teeth of which a smaller stick was rubbed forcibly backward and forward ; with these, rude as they were, very good time was preserved with the vocal performers, who sat around them, and by all the natives as they sat in the inflection of their bodies, or the movements of their limbs ; after the lapse of a little time three indi- viduals leaped up and danced around for a few minutes, then, at a concerted signal from the master of ceremonies, the music ceased, and they retired to their seats uttering a loud noise, which by patting the mouth rapidly with the hand, was broken into a succession of similar sounds, some- what like the hurried barking of a dog. Several sets of dancers succeeded, each terminating as the first. In the in- tervals of the dances, a warrior would step forward and strike a flag staff they had erected, with a stick, whip, or other wea- pon, and recount his martial deeds. This ceremony is call- ed striking- the post, and whatever is then said may be relied upon as rigid truth, being delivered in the presence of many a jealous warrior and witness, who could easily detect and would immediately disgrace the striker for exaggeration or falsehood. This is called the beggars' dance, during which some presents are always expected by the performers, as tobacco, whiskey, or trinkets. But on this occasion, as none of those articles were immediately offered, the amusement was not, at first, distinguished by much activity. The mas- ter of the ceremonies continually called aloud to them to ex- ert themselves ; but still they were somewhat dull and back- Rocky Mountains. 155 ward. letan now stepped forward and lashed a post with his whip, declaring that he would thus punish those who did not dance ; this threat from one whom they had vested with authority for this occasion had a manifest effect upon his auditors, who were presently highly wrought up by the sight of two or three little mounds of tobacco twist which were now laid before them, and appeared to infuse new life. After lashing the post and making his threat, letan went on to narrate his martial exploits. He had stolen horses seven or eight times from the Konzas ; he had first struck the bodies of three of that nation slain in battle. He had stolen horses from the letan nation, and had struck one of their dead. He had stolen horses from the Pawnees, and struck the body of one Pawnee Loup. He had stolen horses several times from the Omawhaws, and once from the Pun- cas. He had struck the bodies of two Sioux. On a war par- ty, in company with the Pawnees, he had attacked the Spa- niards, and penetrated into one of their camps ; the Spaniards, excepting a man and boy, fled, himself being at a distance before his party, he was shot at and missed by the man, whom he immediately shot down and struck. " This, my father, said he, is the only martial act of my life that I am ashamed of." After several rounds of dancing, and of strik- ing at the post by the warriors, Mi-a-ke-ta, or the Little Soldier, a war-worn veteran, took his turn to strike the post. He leaped actively about, and strained his voice to its ut- most pitch whilst he portrayed some of the scenes of blood in which he had acted. He had struck dead bodies of indi- viduals of all the red nations around, Osages, Konzas, Paw- nee Loups, Pawnee Republicans, Grand Pawnees, Puncas, Omawhaws, and Sioux, Padoucas, La Plais or Bald Heads, Ietans, Sauks, Foxes and Ioways ; he had struck eight of one nation, seven of another, &c. He was proceeding with his account when letan ran up to him, put his hand upon his mouth and respectfully led him to his seat. This act was 1 56 Expedition to the no trifling compliment paid to the well known brave. It in- dicated that he had still so many glorious acts to speak of, that he would occupy so much time as to prevent others from speaking, and put to shame the other warriors by the contrast of his actions with theirs. Their physical action in dancing is principally confined to leaping a small distance from the ground with both feet, the body being slightly inclined, and upon alighting, an addition- al slight but sudden inclination of the body is made, so as to appear like a succession of jerks ; or the feet are raised alternately, the motions of the body being the same. Such are the movements, in which the whole party correspond ; but in the figures, as they are termed in our assembly rooms, each individual performs a separate part, and each part is a significant pantomimic narrative. In all their variety of ac- tion they are careful to observe the musical cadences. In this dance Ietan represented one, who was in the act of stealing horses. He carried a whip in his hand, as did a considera- ble number of the Indians, and around his neck were thrown several leathern thongs, for bridles and halters, the ends of which trailed upon the ground behind him ; after many pre- paratory manoeuvres, he stoope ' down and with his knife represented the act of cutting the hopples of horses ; he then rode his tomahawk, as children ride their broomsticks, mak- ing such use of his whip as to indicate the necessity of rapid movement lest his foes should overtake him. Wa-sa-ba-jing- ga or Little black Bear, after a variety of „ gestures, threw several arrows, in succession, over his head, thereby indicat- ing his familiarity with the flight of such missiles ; he at the same time covered his eyes with his hand to indicate that he was blind to danger. Others represented their manoeuvres in battle, seeking their enemy, discharging at him their guns or arrows, &c. &c. Most of the dancers were the principal warriors of the nation, men who had not condescended to amuse themselves or others, in this manner, for years before; Rocky Mountains. 157 but they now appeared in honour of the occasion, and to conciliate, in their best manner, the good will of the repre- sentative of the government of the Big Knives. Amongst these veteran warriors Ietan or Sha-mon-e-kus- se, Ha she-a the broken arm, commonly called Cut-nose, and Wa-sa-ba- jing-ga, or little Black Bear, three youthful leaders, in par- ticular attracted our attention. In consequence of having been appointed soldiers on this occasion to preserve order, they were painted entirely black. The countenance of the former indicated much wit, and had, in its expression, some- thing of the character of that of Voltaire ; he frequently ex- cited the mirth of those about him by his remarks and ges- tures. Ha-she-a, called Cut-nose, in consequence of having lost the tip of his nose in a quarrel with Ietan, wore a hand- some robe of white wolf skin, with an appendage behind him called a crow. This singular decoration is a large cushion, made of the skin of a crow, stuffed with any light material, and variously ornamented ; it has two decorated sticks pro- jecting from it upward, and a pendant one beneath ; this ap- paratus is secured upon the buttocks by a girdle passing round the body. The other actors in the scene were deco- rated with paints of several colours fantastically disposed upon their persons. Several were painted with white clay, which had the appearance of being grooved in many places. This grooved appearance is given by drawing the finger nails over the part, so as to remove the pigment from thence in parallel lines. These lines are either rectilinear, undula- ted, or zigzag ; sometimes passing over the forehead trans- versely or vertically ; sometimes in the same directions, or obliquely over the whole visage, or upon the breast, arms, &c. Many were painted with red clay, in which the same lines appeared. A number of them had the representation of a black hand with outspread fingers, on different parts of the body, strongly contrasting with the principal colour with which the body was overspread ; the hand was depicted in 158 Expedition to the different positions upon the face, breast and back. The face of others was coloured, one half black, and one half white, or red and white, &c. j many coloured their hair with red clay ; but the eye-lids, and base of the ears, were generally tinged with vermillion. At the conclusion of the ceremony, whiskey, which they always expect on similar occasions, was produced, and a small portion was given to each. The principal chiefs of the different nations, who had remained passive spectators of the scene, now directed their people to return to their camp. The word of the chiefs was obeyed, excepting by a few of the Ioways, who appeared to be de- termined to keep their places notwithstanding the reiterated command of the chiefs. letan now sprang towards them, with an expression of much ferocity in his countenance, and it is probable a tragic scene would have been displayed had not the chiefs requested him to use gentle means, and thus he succeeded, after which the chiefs withdrew. October 4th. At ten o'clock, the hour appointed for the council, the Indians, headed by their chiefs, arrived ; and after shaking us all by the hand took their seats. There were about one hundred Ottoes, seventy Missouries, and fifty or sixty Ioways. They arranged themselves, agreeably to their tribes, on puncheon benches, which had been prepared for them, and which described a semicircle, on the chord of which sat the whites, with Major OFallon and his interpre- ters in the centre. Sentinels walked to and fro behind the benches ; and a handsome standard waved before the assem- bly. The council was opened by a few rounds from the howitzers. A profound silence reigned for a few minutes, when Major O Fallon arose, and in a very animated and en- ergetic manner addressed his Indian auditors. Suitable re- plies were given by Shonga-tonga, the Crenier and others, with all the extravagant gesticulation which is one of the prominent features of Indian oratory. At the termination of the council, presents were made of blankets, kettles, strouding, tobacco, guns, powder and ball, Rocky Mountains. 159 he. The Big Horse and the Crenier only were acknowledg- ed as chiefs, and to the latter, who did not possess a large medal, one was given in exchange for a smaller one which he possessed. No chief was acknowledged amongst the Mis- souries, as it is the wish of Major O" Fallon to extinguish as much as possible national prejudices between these two na- tions or tribes. Cut-nose now presented to the agent his crow and bison robe ornamented with hieroglyphicks. The Little Black Bear pre ented his robe of white wolf and bison skin, and a pair of handsome leggins. The Black Bird presented a robe and the serrated instrument of music before mention- ed, observing, significantly, that the latter was then the only weapon he possessed with which he could defend his father. October 5th. Last evening Loutre, an old Missouri Indian, died ; he had spoken in the council a few hours before, and remarked then that he had not long to live, . He was buried without ceremony near the trading house. October 9th. Messengers, who had been sent yesterday for the Pawnees, returned, having met with them on the Elk Horn creek, twenty-five miles distant, on their way hither. They arrived about noon, seventy in number, consisting of individuals of each of the three tribes called Grand Paw- nees, Pawnee Republicans and Pazvnee Loups, or Pawnema- has, and halted at some distance from our camp. As we ap- proached them we observed the majority of them standing in a forest of young willow trees, holding their mules by the bridles, and looking dubiously around. The chief of the principal band, Long Hair, was haranguing them in a loud voice, " Take off your saddles ; why do you stand peeping and trembling in the bushes ; you ought to have trembled when the whites were seen near the Konza village, &c." We saluted the principal men in the usual manner, of shak- ing by the hand, though not with much cordiality. Major O' Fallon then said " Pawnees encamp here and smoke your 160 Expedition to the pipes in security ; you have conducted yourselves badly, but the whites will not harm the red-skins when they have them thus in their power ; we fight in the plains, and scorn to injure men seated peaceably by their fires. Think well of what you will have to say to me in council to-morrow." These assurances appeared to annul their present apprehen- sions, and they proceeded to encamp. Three boats came from camp Missouri to take on board a quantity of provisions which are stored here for the troops ; we exchanged salutes with them. The noise of the artillery excited the apprehensions of the Indians, who, being sensible of having grossly offended the whites, now anticipated some exemplary punishment, and were not at ease until reassured of their safety, and the cause of the firing of such great guns so near them, was explained. In the evening, accompanied by several gentlemen of the party, we visited the camp of the Pawnees, whom we found sitting round their fires smoking their pipes in silence. Some were employed in making bows, having found plenty of hickory, and hop horn beam wood here, which are not to be procured in the vicinity of their villages. Their mules were tied to trees, feeding on the bark of the cotton wood. The three tribes were seated around different fires. We sat down in the group of Grand Pawnees and smoked with their chief Tar-ra-re-ca-wa-o or Long-hair. This is an hereditary chief, of a lofty and rather haughty mein ; his mouth is, perhaps through habit, drawn down a little at the corners. He has the appearance and character of an intrepid man, although not distinguished as a warrior, having, during his life, killed but a single man, who was a Spaniard. He is, however, artful and politic, and has performed some laudable actions. The following anecdote may serve in part to illustrate the more amiable traits of his character. Dorion, a Mestizo, on a trading expedition had accumulated a considerable quantity of peltry at the Pawnee republican village, when it Rocky Mountains. 161 was situate on the Republican fork of the Konza river. As he had no horses to transport his merchandize, he requested the chief of that village to assist him in conveying it to the Grand Pawnees on the Platte, as he intended to descend that river to trade with the Otoes, on his way to St. Louis; the chief directly ordered horses to be brought, the furs were packed upon them and they departed on the journey ; but owing to some alleged misconduct on the part of Dorion, the chief, when half way, ordered the goods to be taken from the horses and to be left on the plain. He then, with his followers, returned to his village. The trader, after bewailing his unfortunate condition, at length resolved to go to the Grand Pawnee village, and solicit the aid of Long-hair. Hav- ing arrived at the residence of the chief he related to him in what manner he had been used by the Republican chief, and concluded by requesting assistance to bring in his goods. Long- hair, without reply, ascended to the top of his lodge and called out to his people to bring him one hundred hor- ses. Taking the best of these, and a sufficient number of at- tendants, he accompanied Dorion, and assisted him to trans- port all his peltries, and did not cease with his good offices, until he had aided him in building a skin canoe, and had packed all the merchandize aboard, although previously told by Dorion that he had nothing to reward him with, having as he said, traded every thing away, though at the same mo- ment he had a number of Indian goods concealed in his packs of bufFaloe robes. After all was completed, " now," said the chief, " Dorion, I know that you are a bad man ; I have no doubt but you have a quantity of such goods as we want, concealed in those packs, and could reward me if you were liberal enough ; but I ask nothing. You have a forked tongue. You have abused me to the whites, by calling me a rascal, saying I robbed the traders, &c. ; but go, I will not harm you ; tell the red head (governor Clarke) that I am a rascal, robber, &c. I am content." vol, i. 21 162 Expedition to the At another fire, surrounded by his particular band, sat the Knife Chief, La-che-le-cha-ru, principal chief of the Paw- neemahas. He is a large, portly man, with a very prepossess- ing countenance ; the hair on the sides of his head is gray ; he has a deep scar on the right side, from a wound which was inflicted by a female prisoner, of the Padouca nation, whom he had adopted and taken into his family. This squaw, becoming infuriated at the prospect of the state of slavery to which she supposed herself now reduced, stabbed her child to the heart, mortally wounded the brother of this chief, and, before she could be despatched, had inflicted this wound, through which the bowels protruded. The individu- als of this band live in great harmony amongst themselves, owing probably to their having but two chiefs, who are un- rivalled. The second chief is a Mestizo. Against this band we have no accusation, they have always demeaned them- selves well towards the American whites. In a third group were collected the representatives of the Pawnee Republicans ; this nation or clan stands accused of whipping, robbing, and otherwise abusing a white American and iiis son, whom they found trapping beaver on the Ar- kansa river, this season ; of killing two American citizens, two years since, who were also trapping beaver on the same river ; and of robbing our party of sundry articles and hor- ses near the Konza village, whilst under the protection of the flag of our country, of the nature of which they had been instructed and perfectly well understood. These outrages, and many others, they had committed on lands, to which they do not pretend to have any claim, situated far from their own territories, and in the immediate vicinity of nations with whom they then were, and still are, at war.* On the following day the Pawnees were summoned to council, and in a short time they appeared marching •It was a party of the Grand Pawnees that robbed and ill treated lieu- tenant Pike and his party, when trarersing ihe country within then range. Rocky Mountains. 163 Jeisurely in a narrow pathway, in Indian jile, led by the grand chief ; near this pathway the musical band was sta- tioned, and when Long-hair arrived opposite, they struck up, suddenly and loudly, a martial air. We wished to observe the effect which instruments, that he had never seen or heard before, would produce on this distinguished man, and therefore eyed him closely, and were not disappointed to observe that he did not deign to look upon them, or to mani- fest, by any emotion whatever, that he was sensible of their presence. The Indians arranged themselves on the benches prepared for them, and the cessation of the music was suc- ceeded by stillness, which was suddenly interrupted by loud explosions from our howitzers, that startled many of us, but did not appear to attract the notice of the Pawnees. Major O'Fallon rose and addressed them in a very austere tone and manner, stating the offences they had committed against the white people, and admonishing them to a reforma- tion in their conduct, and to restore the articles they had stolen from us ; this was chiefly directed against the Paw- nee Republicans ; the Loups were applauded for their uniformly good deportment. The council terminated after much of the property taken from us near the Konza village was restored, and a promise given that the offenders should be punished by whipping. (See note A at the end of the volume.) The leisure we enjoyed after our arrival at Engineer can- tonment, afforded the opportunity of making numerous ex- cursions to collect animals, and to explore the neighbouring country. We give here some account of two species of So- rex, taken near our cabins.* * I. Sorex parvus. Say. Brownish cinereous above; beneath cinereous; teeth blackish; tail short, of moderate thickness. Body above brownish cinereous, beneath cinereous;" head elongated; eyes and ears concealed; whiskers long, the longest nearly attaining the back of the head; nose naked emarginate;/Von£ teeth black, lateral ones piceous; feet whitish, five toed; nails prominent, acute, white; tail short. 164 Expedition to the Early in October the cabins for winter quarters were com- pleted. Having made arrangements for the subsistence of the party, and being about to return to Washington, Maj. Long issued orders to the officers and gentlemen of the expedition,, for their government during his absence. The following ex- subcylindric, of moderate thickness, slightly thicker in the middle, whitish beneath Length from tip of nose to root of tail, 2 inches 3-8 of tail, 3-4 from the upper teeth to tip of nose, 3-20 Mr. Peale caught this animal in a pitfall, which he had dug for the pur- pose of catching a wolf. It is a female. Barton, in his Medical and Physical Journal for 1806, p. 67, says, that, " Sorex minutissimus of Zimmerman, has been discovered in the traos- Mississippi part of the United States, in the country that is watered by the Missouri;" had he reference to this species? This Sorex minutissimus. is probably synonymous with S. exilis, to which our specimens cannot be referred, whilst the character attributed to that species, of " tail very thick in the middle," is considered essential. 2. Sorex brevir .udus. Say. Blackish-plumbeous above, beneath rather lighter; teeth, blackish; tail, short, robust. Total length from nose to tip of tail, 4 inches and 5-8 of the tail, 1 from the upper teeth to the tip of nose, 1-8 Above blackish plumbeous, when viewed from before, silvery plumbeous when viewed from behind; fur dense, rather long; beneath rather paler; head large; eyes very minute; cars white, entirely concealed beneath the fur, aperture very large, with two distinct semisepta, (tragus and antitra- gus?} which are sparsely hairy at tip; rostrum short, with a slightly im- pressed, abbreviated line above; nose livid brown, emarginate; mouth mar- gined with whitish and with sparse, short hairs; teeth piceous-black at tip; feet, white, the second, third, and fourth toes subequal, the first and fifth shorter, the former rather shortest, anterior with but very few hairs, nearly naked; nails nearly as long as the toes; tail wiih rather sparse hairs, near- ly of equal diameter but slightly thickest in the middle, depressed, and nearly as long as the posterior feet. This specimen, which is a male, closely resembles S. parvus, but it is much larger, the head is proportionally much larger and more elongated; the tail more robust, and the inferior anterior pair of incisores are simi- lar to those of S. conslrictus, fig. 7, pi. 15, of the Mem. du. Mus. by Mr. Geoffroy St. Hilaire. The incisors of the superior jaw, are twelve in num- ber, in a cranium belonging to this species, five on each side in addition to the two larger anterior ones, the posterior tooth of the lateral ones is small- est. May not this be the animal mentioned by the late professor Barton in his Medical and Physical Journal, for March, 18 6, wh'ch, lie says, " may be called the black shrew?1' I do not know that tli black shrew has ever received any further notice, unless it is the same sneeies to which Mr. Ord has applied the name of Sorex niger. \ \ Rocky Mountains. 165 tract will show to what objects they were instructed to direct their attention. " Mr. Say will have every facility afforded him that cir- cumstances will admit, to examine the country, visit the neighbouring Indians, procure animals, &c. for the attain- ment of which, he will call on Lt. Graham, who is authoriz- ed to make any expenditures in behalf of the expedition, that may be deemed reasonable and necessary, and afford any aid in his power, consistent with the performance of other duties. Mr. Seymour, or Mr. Peale will accompany him, whenever their services are deemed requisite. " Maj. O'Fallon has given permission to Mr. Dougherty to aid the gentlemen of the party, in acquiring information con- cerning the Indians, &c; this gentleman will, therefore, be consulted in relation to visits, and all' kinds of intercourse with the Indians, that may be necessary in the prosecution of the duties of the expedition. " In regard to these duties, the gentlemen of the expedition will consult my orders of March last. The documents trans- mitted from the Philosophical Society of Philadelphia, by the Secretary of War; and the instructions of Mr. Jefferson to Capt. Lewis, to be found in vol. 1st of Lewis and Clark's expedition, and regulate their observations and inquiries ac- cordingly. " Lt. Graham will embrace every opportunity for celestial and barometric observations, and calculate the latitude, lon- gitude, magnetic dip and variation, with the utmost at- tainable precision; also the heights of the neighbouring hills, and the adjacent high table lands. He will also continue the meteorologic observations as usual, noticing the changes of weather, and all celestial and atmospheric phenomena. To aid him in these duties, he will call on Lieut. Swift, or any other gentleman of the expedition, who may not be particu- larly engaged at the time in other important duties. 166 Expedition, &c. " It is believed that the field for observation and inquiry is here so extensive, that all the gentlemen of the expedition will find ample range for the exercise of their talents, in their respective pursuits, and it is hoped that through their unre- mitted exertions and perseverance, a rich harvest of useful intelligence will be acquired." On the 1 1th of October, Major Long and Mr. Jessup took Jeave of their friends at Engineer Cantonment, and accom- panied by several other persons, began to descend the Mis- souri in a canoe, on their way towards Washington and Phi- ladelphia. CHAPTER IX. Animals — Sioux and Omawhaw Indians — Winter residence at Engineer Cantonment. The subsequent account of the transactions at and near Council Bluff, one of the observations made there, we copy from the journal of Mr. Say. Descriptions of some of the animals which occured, are given in notes.* * Vesperlilio pruinosus. Ears large, short, not so long- as the head, hairy on the exterior side more than half their length; tragus very obtuse at tip, arquated; canine teeth large, prominent; incisors, only one distinct one on each side, placed very near the canine, conic, almost on a line with it, and furnished with a small tubercle on its exterior base: nosty-ih distant;yur of the back, long, black brown at base, then pale brownish yellow, then blackish, then white; towards the rump dark ferruginous takes the place of the brownish-yellow on the fur; beneath the colours are similar to those of the back, but on the anterior portion of the breast the fur is not tipped with white, and on the throat it is dull yellowish- white dusky at base; the brachial membrane is densely hairy on the an- terior margin beneath; interfemoral membrane covered with fur; Length nearly 4 1-2 inches. This bat is common in this region, and was observed by Mr. Thomas Nuttall at Council Bluff. It is a fine large species, and remarkable for its many coloured fur. It has much affiuity with the New York bat, (V. No- vaboracensis,) but is more than double its size, and is distinguished from it by many minor characters. The late professor Barton, presented a specimen of this bat to the Pkila- delphia museum, that had been captured in Philadelphia. Vespertilio arquatus. Head large; ears rather shorter than the head, wide, and at tip, rounded, hairy at base, posterior edge with two slight and very obtuse emarginations; the anterior base distant from the eje; tragus arquated, obtuse at tip; interfemoral membrane naked, including the tail to one half of the penultimate joint. Total length 5 inches. — Tail 11-2 inches. Expansion more than 13 inches. 168 Expedition to the The prairie wolves* roam over the plains in considerable numbers, and during the night, the principal season of their hunts, they venture very near to the encampment of the travel- ler. They are by far the most numerous of our wolves, and of- This bat might be readily mistaken for the Caroliaa bat, (V. Carohnen- bis. Geoff.,) which it resembles in colour, but differs from it in being of a larger size, the ears broader and proportionally -borter, and an arquated tragus, curving in an almost luniform manner towards the anterior por- tion of the ear, like that of the V. serotinus. Daub. Geoff though not so broad. The upper incisor teeth, like those of several of our species of bats, are not prominent, they are very much inclined forward, and do not rise at their tips above the level of the intermediate callosity. * Canis latrans. Cinereous or gray, varied with black above, and dull fulvous, or cinnamon; hair at base dusky plumbeous, in the middle of its length dull cinnamon, and at tip gray or black, longer on the vertehral line; ears erect, rounded at tip, cinnamon behind, the hair dark plum- beous at base, inside lined with gray hair; eyelids edged with black, supe- rior eyelashes black beneath, and at tip above; supplemental lid margined with black-brown before, and edged with black brown behind; iris yel- low; pupil black-blue; spot upon the lachrymal sac black-brown; ros- trum cinnamon, tinctured with grayish on the nose; lips white, edged with black, three series of black seta; head between the ears intermixed with grav, and dull cinnamon, hairs duskv plumbeous at base; sides paler than the back, obsoletely fasciate with black above the legs; legs cinnamon on the outer side, more distinct on the posterior hair: a dilated black ab- breviated line on the anterior ones near the wrist; tail bushy, fusiform, straight, varied with gray and cinnamon, a spot near the base above, and tip black; the tip of the trunk of the tail, attains the tip of the os calcis, when the leg is extended; beneath white, immaculate, tail cinnamon to- wards the tip, tip black; posterior feet four toed, anterior five toed. Total length, (excepting the hair at tip of tail) 3 feet 9 1 -2 inches. Trunk of the tail ... 1 1-2 Hind foot os calcis to tip of claw, . 7 1-5 Four foot, elbow to tip of claw, . 1 3-4 Ears from top of head, . . 4 Rostrum from anterior cantnus of the eye, 3 3-4 Taken in a trap, baited with the body of a wild cat. The line on the anterior side of the anterior feet, near the wrfet, is want- ing in a second specimen. This species varies very much in size, another specimen measured In total length, excepting the hair at tip of tail, 3 feet 2 1-2 inches. Tail do do 11 3-4 Ear from top of head to tip 3 5-8 The snout was narrower than in the preceding specimens, but in colour similar. Another specimenwas destitute of the cinnamon colour, excepting on the snout, where it was but slightly apparent; the general colour >vas, therefore, gray with an intermixture of bluck, in remote spots and lines, varying in position and figure with the direction of the hair. Rocky Mountains. 169 ten unite in packs for the purpose of chasing deer, which they very frequently succeed in running down, and killing. This, however, is an achievement attended with much diffi- culty to them, and in which the exertion of their utmost 2 Cnnis nvbilus. Dusky, the hair cinereous at base, then brownish- black then gray, then black; the proportion of black upon the hairs, is so considerable, as to give to the whole animal a much darker colour, than the 'arkest oi the latrnns, but the gray of the hairs combining with the black tips, in the general effect produce a mottled appearance; the gray colour predominates on the lower part of the sides; ears short, deep brownish-black, with a patch of gray hair on the anterior side within; muz- zle blackish above; superior lifjs, anterior to the canine teeth, gray; in- feriorjaw at tip. and extending in a narrowed line backwards, nearly to the origin of the neck, gray; beneath dusky ferruginous, greyish with long hair between the hind thighs, and with a large white spot on the breast; the ferruginous colour is very much narrowed on the neck, but is dilated on the lower part of the cheeks; legs brownish- black, with but a slight admixture of gray hairs, excepting on the anterior edge of the hind thighs, and the lower edgings of the toes, where the gray predominates; the tail is short, fusiform, a little tinged with ferruginous, black above near the base and at tip, the tip of the trunk hardly attaining to the os calcis; the longer hairs of the back, particularly over the shoulders, resemble a short sparse mane. Length from the tip of the nose to the origin of the tail, 4 ft. 3 3-4 in. Length of the trunk of the tail, .... 1 1 Ear from anterior angle to the tip, ... 3 3-4 From the anterior angle of the ear, to the posterior } ., . canthus of the eye, \ From anterior canthus of the eye, to the middle ofj ... the tip of the nose, £ Between the anterior angles of the ears, rather > „ more than \ The aspect of this animal- is far more fierce and formidable than either the common red wolf, or the prairie wolf, and is of a more robust form. Th? length of the ears and tail distinguish it at once from the former and its greatly superior size, besides the minor characters of colour &c , se- parate it from the prairie wolf. As the black wolf (C. lycaoo,) is des- cribed to be of a deep and uniform black colour, and his physiognomy is represented to be nearly the same as that of the common wolf, it is be- yond a doubt different from this species. It has the mane of the mezicanus. It diffuses a strong and disagreeable odour, which scented the clothing of Messrs. Peale and Dougherty, who transported the animal several miles from where they killed it, to the cantonment. 1 Sylvia eclatus. Above dull greenish-olive; rump and tail coverts purer greenish-olive; primaries and tail feathers blackish- brown, olive-green on the exterior margins, and white on the interior margin; head very slightly and inconspicuously crested; cest with the feathers orange at base; bill horn colour, Blender, !iase of the inferior mandible whitish beneath; be- neath olivaceous yellow; inferior tail coverts pure yellow; legs dusky. vol. I. 22 170 Expedition to the swiftness and cunning, are so often unavailing, that they are sometimes reduced to the necessity of eating wild plums, and other fruits, to them almost indigestible, in order to Length 5 1-4 inches. Shot at Engineer Cantonment early in May. This bird is distinguished by the colour of the feathers on the crown of the head, which are of a iuh- vous colour, tipped with the same colour as that of the neck and back, so that the fulvous colour does not appear at first sight. The wings are des- titute of any white band, and tbe margins of the six exterior prima- ries, are much paler than those of the others. We cannot find any des- cription of this bird, it seems, however, to approach nearest to the S. leu- cogastra. Steph., Nashville warbler of Wilson; but in our specimen the belly is not white, neither does Wilson's description of the colour of the head of his Nashville warbler, agree at all with that of our bird. 2 Sylvia bifasciata. Above bluish; all beneath white; head slightly vari- ed with darker; between the eyes and bill blackish; bill black; interscapu- lars Jineate with blackish; tows-? blackish; shoulders bluish; wing coverts with two white bands; primaries margined with wnite on the inner side, and with plumbeous on the exterior side; tail black; feathers blackish, white on the inner margin, and plumbeous on the exterior margin, and excepting the two middle ones, with a white spot on the inner side near the tip; flanks spotted with ipiumheous; feet black. Length rather more than 4 3-4 inches. Shot in May near Engineer Cantonment. This species seems to ap- proach very closely to S. coerulea. Genus Limosa, Cuv. Limosa scolopacea. Dusky cinereous; bill straight, upper mandible a little longer, aud very slightly arquated towards the tip, the grooves con- tinued to near the tip, about as long again as the head, yellowish-green; tip black, dilated, rugose, witli a dorsal groove; palate with reflected, cartilaginous spines; head with a line from the upper mandible, passing over the eye and inferior orbit, white; cheeks, chin, throat and origin of the breist, cinerous, the plumage margined with dull whitish; back be- neath the interscapulars, white; rump, plumage white, fasciate with black; tail coverts, and tail white, fasciate with black, which latter colour is more abundant; lesser wiws coverts margined with whitish; greater viing coverts black, terminal margin white; secondaries black, margin and submargin white; primaries black, interior ones very slightly edged with white; outer shaft white, a little longer than the second; breast and belly white; sides spotted or undulated with blackish cinereous; inferior tail coverts with black abbreviated bands, the white prevailing; feet dirty greeuish; toes webbed at base, the exterior one reaching the first joint of outer toe, the interior one very short; hind toe rather long. Length from tip of bill to that of the tail 1 1 3-4 inches. Length of bill, 2 3-4 Length of feet, 5 3-4 Length from the knee to the origin of the feathers 1 1 -10 Tail projecting more than one inch beyond the tip of the wing. Several specimens were shot in a pond near the Bowyer creek. Corres- ponds with the genus Scolopax, Cuv. in having the dorsal grooves at the Rocky Mountains. 171 distend the stomach, and appease in a degree the cravings of hunger. Their bark is much more distinctly like that of the do- mestic dog, than of any other animal ; in fact the first tip of the upper mandible, and in having this part dilated and rugose; but the eye is not large, nor is it placed far back upon the head; which two latter characters, combined with its more elevated and slender figure, and the circumstance of the thighs being denudated of feathers high above the knee, and the exterior toe being united to the middle toe by a mem- brane, which extends as far as the first joint, and the toes being also margined, combine to distinguish this species, from those of the genus to which the form and characters of its bill would refer it, and approach it more closely to Limosa. In one specimen the two exterior primaries on each wing, were light brown, but the quills were white. It may perhaps with propriety, be considered as the type of a new genus, and under the following characters, be placed between the genera Scolopax and Limosa. Bill longer than the head, dilated and rugose at tip; tip slightly curved downwards, and with a dorsal groove; nasal groove elongated; feet long, an extensive naked space above the knee; toes slightly margined, a mem- brane connecting the basal joints of the exterior toes; first of the primaries rather longest. Genus Pelidna. Cuv. I Pelidna pecioralis. Bill black, reddish-yellow at base; upper man- dible with a few indented punctures near the tip; head above black, plumage margined with ferruginous, a distinct brown Hue from the eye to the upper mandible: cheeks and neck beneath cinereous very slightly ting- ed with rufous, and hneate with blackish; orbits and line over the eye white; chin white; neck above dusky, plumage margined with cinereous; scapulars, interscapulars, and wing coverts black, margined fvith fer- ruginous, and near the exterior tips with whitish; primaries dusky, slight- ly edged with whitish, outer quill shaft white; back, (beneath the inter- scapulars) rump, and tail coverts black, immaculate; tail feathers dusky, margined with white at tip, two intermediate ones longest, acute, attain- ing the tip of the wings, black, edged with ferruginous; breast, venter, vent and inferior tail coverts white, plumage blackish at base; sides white, the plumage towards the tail slightly lineate with dusky , feet greenish-yel- low; toes divided to the base. Length nearly ... 9 inches Bill . . . . .11-8 This bird in many respects resembles cinrlus, but as the average size of that bird is stated at seven inches and one or two lines, ours is doubtless a distinct species. Mauy flocks of them were seen at Engineer Canton- ment, both in the Spring and Autumn, the individuals of which corres- ponded in point of magnitude: we add a description for the information of ornithologists. It is described from a specimeu in the autumnal plu- mage. In the spring dress, the colour of the superior part of the bird is much paler, almost destitute of black, and the feathers are brownish, mar- gined with pale cinereous. The superior part of the head is alvays dark- er than any part of the neck, and margined with ferruginous; the plumage of the neck beneath, and the breast, does not appear to be subject to so much chaDgc, as that of the superior part of the body. ITS Expedition to the two or three notes could not be distinguished from the bark of a small terrier, but these notes are succeeded by a length- ened scream. The wonderful intelligence of this animal, is well worthy of note, and a few anecdotes respecting it may not be amiss. Mr. Peale constructed and tried various kinds of traps to take them, one of which was of the description called " a live trap," a shallow box reversed, and supported atone end, by the well known kind of trap sticks, usually called the " figure four," which elevated the front of the trap upwards of three feet above its slab flooring ; the trap was about six feet long, and nearly the same in breadth and was plentifully baited with offal. Notwithstanding this arrangement, a wolf actually burrowed under the flooring, and pulled down the bait through the crevices of the floor; tracks of different sizes were observed about the trap. This procedure would seem to be the result of a faculty beyond mere instinct. This trap proving useless, another was constructed in a different part of the country, formed like a large cage, but with a small entrance on the top, through which the animals might enter, but not return; this was equally unsuccessful; 2. Pelidna cinclus. Var. Above blackish-brown, plumage edged with cinereous, or whitish; head and neck above cinereous with dilated fuscous lines; eyebrows white; a brown line between the eye and corner of the mouth, above which the front is white; cheeks, sides of the neck and throat cinereous, lineate with blackish-brown; bill short, straight, black; chin, breast, belli/, vent and inferior tail coverts pure white, plumage plumbeous at base; scapulars and lesser wing coverl-j margined with white; greater wing coverts with a broad white tip; primaries surpassing the tip of the tail, blackisti. slightly edged with whitish, exterior shaft white, shafts whitish on the middle of their length; rump blackish, plumage margined at tip with cinereous tinctured with rufous; tail coverts while, submargins black; tail feathers cinereous margined with white, two middle ones slightly longer, black, margined with white; legs blackish. A male. Length to tip of taib • . . 7 inches. Bill • . .' . .7-8 of an inch. This bird was shot in November, near Engineer Cantonment; and it is probably a variety of the very variable cinclus in its winter plumage. Rocky Mountains* 173 the wolves attempted in vain to get at the bait, as they would not enter by the rout prepared for them. A large double vk steel trap" was next tried ; this was pro- fusely baited, and the whole, with the exception of the bait, was carefully concealed beneath the fallen leaves. This was also unsuccessful. Tracks of the anticipated victims,werenext day observed to be impressed in numbers on the earth near the spot, but still the trap, with its seductive charge, remain- ed untouched. The bait was then removed from the trap, and suspended over it from the branch of a tree ; several pieces of meat were also suspended in a similar manner, from, trets in the vicinity ; the following morning the bait over the trap, alone remained. Supposing that their exquisite sense of smell, warned them of the position of the trap, it was re- moved and again covered with leaves, and the baits being disposed as before, the leaves to a considerable distance around were burned, and the trap remained perfectly con- cealed by ashes ; still the bait over the trap was avoided. Once only this trap was sprung, and had fastened for a short time upon the foot of a species, which was shot the following day at no great distance; it proved to be a species distinct from the prairie wolf, and we have described it under the name of C. nubilus. In no respect disheartened by these futile attempts, many times repeated, and varied in every obvious manner, another scheme was executed, which eventuated in complete suc- cess. This was the log trap, in which one log is elevated above another at one end, by means of an upright stick, which rests upon a reunded horizontal trigger stick, on the inferior log. The la trans does not diffuse the offensive odour, so re- markable in the two species of jackalls, (C. aureus and C. anthus^) though in many respects it resembles those ani- mals. Like the Mexicaims, the hair on the vertebral line is elongated ; and we should be disposed to regard it as the 1 74 Expedition to the same animal, but it differs from the description of that spe- cies, both in colour and physiognomy. The ears are pro- portionally longer than those of C. cancrivorus, and, as well as the tail, shorter than the corresponding parts of C. meso- melas. This animal, which does not seem to be known to natural- ists, unless it should prove to be the mexicanus, is most pro bably the original of the domestic dog, so common in the vil- lages of the Indians of this region, some of the varieties of which, still retain much of the habit, and manners of this species. On the 14th of October, four hundred Omawhaw Indians assembled at Camp Missouri. Major O'Fallon addressed them in an appropriate speech, stating the reasons for their be- ing called to council, upon which Ong-pa-ton-ga the Big Elk arose, and after shaking by the hand each of the whites pre- sent, placed his robe of Otter skins, and his mockasins un- der the feet of the agent, whom he addressed to the follow- ing effect, as his language was interpreted by Mr. Dough- erty. " He had heard that his father wished to see him, and he had wished to see and to hear the words of his father, ever since he learned that he was ascending the river. He was informed last fall of his being at the river Platte, and as he could not then go to see him, he had now come to visit him — And here I am, my father. All these young people you see around here are yours, although they are poor and tri- fling, yet they are your children. I have always loved the whites since I first remember to have seen them, and this affection increases with my age. Air my nation love the whites, and always have loved them. Amongst all the good things of this world I place the whites first. But it appears, that there are many nations that live nearer to you than I, that do not love you, though you have done more for them, than you have done for me. When they meet with you, they flatter you, in order to get presents from you, notwith- standing which, they would not hesitate to kill some of your Rocky Mountains. 175 people on their way home. Some of them shake hands with you in a friendly manner, whilst their hands are yet stained with your blood; and if you examine your own hands, my father, I think you would find some of it adhering to them yet. For my part, my father, I am proud to boast, that my hands are clean. Never has one of my nation stained his hands with the blood of a white man. I do not under- stand, my father, your mode of treating those well, who treat you ill. It is true I know that you have more sense than I have, but I cannot understand it. I have heard that the Pawnees have been to see you, a nation that has killed, rob- bed, and insulted your people. I was also informed that you feasted them, and at their departure you put weapons in their hands. I should not be surprised to hear, that those very weapons were stained with white man's blood, before they reached the Pawnee village. This is what I cannot under- stand. This circumstance led me to believe, that if you treat- ed those, that have injured you, so well, you surely would treat your poor children the Omawhaws, who have never done harm to your people, with much kindness also. But I am afraid the transaction will have a bad effect on my young men. When they heard of American troops ascending this river, they feared and respected them. But I am fearful that this transaction will throw them off their guard, make them lose their respect for you, and cause them to do some- thing, that they would not otherwise have done, and thus create trouble and difference between us. You said, my father, that those troops do not come to harm us. I believe it is true. I consider them all my brothers and friends. So far from thinking they come to injure me, I regard them as my shield, to guard me against bad nations around me. You say, that if ever there is a difference between us, that it will be our fault ; but I hope not, my father. I cannot think that the Omawhaws will offer any indignity to your people, now that they have seen all those troops, when they have not 176 Expedition to the harmed individuals who have resided years in their vil- lage unprotected, although we were then less enlightened than we now are. Some think, my father, that you have brought all these warriors here to take our land from us, but I do not believe it. For although I am but a poor, simple Indian, yet I know that this land will not suit your farmers ; if I even thought your hearts bad enough to take the. land, I would not fear it, as I know there is not wood enough on it for the use of whites. You might settle along this river, where timber is to be found ; but we can always get wood enough in our country to make our little fires. There is one thing I fear, my father, my nation is coming down here to hunt this winter, and if you send out your soldiers to hunt also, they will drive off all the game, and our women and children will starve. We have heard of the ascent of the troops up this river ever since last fall, and we have been told by other nations, that if they chance to meet with any squaws unprotected, they ravish them. But, my father, we shall soon know if this is true or not, because, having but little to eat, our squaws will be obliged to go out into the prairies to dig roots; I shall trust to you, and not hesitate to let them go." He also observed that he could not see the necessity of stationing so many troops here, as there was no one to oppose; he thought it desirable that they should go higher up the river, to chastise those refractory Indians, who will not listen to our words. " There is one thing, my father," he observed, " which I wish you to inform me of. We have heard of your tying up and whipping individuals of several nations, as you ascended this river. What is the offence which will subject us to this punishment. I wish to know, that I may inform my people, that they may be on their guard." He then observed that all his children were poor, and that they had come with the expectation of receiv- ing something from their father. Rocky Mountains. 177 This speech, contrary to the usual mode of Indian orators, was commenced in a low tone, the voice gradually rising as the speaker proceeded, until it attained its full intonation. Several speakers subsequently went forward and delivered their sentiments, generally alluding to the circumstance of our treating those who injure us, kindly, and neglecting our friends. Ta-sone, the White Coxu, spoke with that allusion, and ad- ded, " Look at me, my father, look at my hands, examine me well, I am a wild man, born in the prairie ;" and subse- quently, " I told you, my father, to look at me, that you might see if there is any of the blood of your people upon me. Some, whose hands have been stained with blood, en- deavour to wash it off, but some of it will still remain." It is proper to mention, as explanatory of some of the al- lusions in the above speeches, that the Pawnees, at the con- clusion of their council, had been invited to dine at Camp Missouri, and that many of their chiefs were there pre- sented with sabres, as I before stated. It was to this cir- cumstance that the above mentioned speakers had refer- ence, as being inexplicable to them, as it seemed as if we wished to conciliate the good will of those evil-doers through fear, and yet they could hardly accuse us of fear, surround- ed as we were by so formidable an array of troops. It was evident, however, that the speakers had mentally no reference to Major O'Fallon, as they knew he had not com- mitted or sanctioned the acts, of which they complained in their truly delicate and peculiar manner. But they looked upon him as responsible for the actions of his people, know- ing him to be the representative of the government, and that in case of wrong, they could not obtain redress from any other person. How much soever Major O'Fallon may have disapproved of the treatment which the Pawnees had re- ceived from the military, he was perfectly conscious of hav- ing conducted himself towards them, according to their de- vr>r.. i. 23 1 78 Expedition to the serts, so far as power had been placed in his hands. But being thus verbally accused, pointedly and repeatedly, of in- justice, for acts not his own, he arose and said," Omawhaws, you say I called the Pawnees here to feast them, and make them presents, after they have killed and insulted us, but it is not true. I did not smoke the pipe of peace with them, neither will I, until our differences are settled. I told the Pawnees that, even if I stood unsupported before them, I would, nevertheless, either compel them to make reparation for their offences, or leave my bones amongst them for my nation to come and bury." The Big Elk, and Big Eyes, were the only chiefs acknow- ledged by Major O'Fallon, who then made liberal presents to them for their people. Some of these presents were distributed by the Indians after a peculiar manner, but which I learn is very common amongst the Indians of this country. A certain portion of them is placed upon the ground, and whoever can strike the post the most frequently, gains them. Another portion is then staked for any other competitors who may choose to advance. A valuable stake was then offered, and an aged veteran stepped forth, and looking round upon his nation with a majestic mien, in which there was not a little expression of triumph, he seemed to challenge the bravest of the brave, to come forward and compete with him for the possession of it ; but agreeably to his expectations no one advanced, and he bore off the prize by common consent, without going through the ceremony of striking. From the 24th of October to the 10th of November, the atmosphere was generally filled with a dense smoke like a fog or stratus, which proceeded from the conflagrated prai- ries. It sometimes affected our vision painfully, sometimes it so far intercepted the rays of the sun, that the disk of that luminary appeared of a blood red, and the eye could repose upon it uninjured. On the morning of the 8th instant it or- Rocky Mountains. 179 purred in greater quantity than at any other time, when it was so extremely dense as to intercept a view of the opposite shore of the Missouri from Engineer Cantonment. On the 9th November some rain fell attended with thun- der and lightning. The rain continued on the day following with the wind from the southeast; at evening the smoke was almost entirely dissipated, and the clouds, which were cirro- cumuli passing to the north-north-west, became visible. A party of Sioux visited us on the 15th of November, to view the steam boat. As Major Long had left orders to put the steam machinery in action occasionally, in order to pre- serve it from rust, Lieutenant Graham concluded to exhibit the boat with the engine in action. The Indians hesitated to en- ter the boat, fearing, as they said, that it was, or that it con- tained, some great medicine of the Big-knives that might in- jure them. But when on board and at their ease, one of them observed doubtingly, " he hardly thought the Big-knives had any medicine to hurt them." They appeared much delight- ed with the boat; its size seemed to surprise them; several measured the width of the deck by straddling, instead of pacing as we do. We exhibited to them the air-gun, magnet, &c. which considerably excited their attention. Two of the howitzers were discharged, loaded with case-shot; the effect produced, of the shot falling into the water, at unequal dis- tances and times, was new and unexpected, and they covered their mouths with the hand, to express their astonishment. Of these warriors, three are Tetons, one a Tancton and a Sa- ho-ne, three different tribes of the great Dacota, or Sioux na- tion. They are fine looking men, with very prominent cheek bones. They are more attentive to their dress, and are much neater than the other Indians we have seen, though it is pro- per to observe that, as visitors, they are clothed in their best attire. They decorate their hair with a profusion of feathers of the war eagle, and of a species of owl, which we have not seen. They also suspend in the head dress an entire skin of 180 Expedition to the the paroquet. The hair is in great profusion, and is thrown upon the back in very long rolls, but upon close inspection the greater portion of it is perceived to be false hair artificially attached to their own, the points of junction being indicated by small masses of clay, with which the attachment is effected. Two of these Tetons are inseparable friends, were raised to- gether from their infancy, and although not allied by blood, there is a strong personal resemblance between them, which is not a little enhanced by a studied similarity in dress and orna- ments. These two individuals are firm friends to the whites. One of them was a few years since at the Sa-ho-ne village in company with a trader, and being invited to a feast, they had proceeded but a short distance, when a Sa-ho ne rushed from his concealment and knocked the trader down with his war club. The Teton immediately attacked the assailant, felled him in his turn to the earth, gashed his body with the spear of his war-club and left him for dead. This is a strong evidence of the determination of the savages, as they are called, to protect those whom they consider under their guardianship. The Teton retaliated the blow given to the trader, not only at the immediate risk of his life in the combat, but of having to expiate the deed to many a kindred exasperated warrior, and also at tne hazard of originating a war between the two bands. In the course of the winter we received frequent supplies of provisions from camp Missouri, and by means of some exertion and diligence in hunting, we were able to procure plenty of fresh venison and other game. For coffee we sub- stituted the fruit of the Gymnocladus canadensis^ which af- forded a palatable and wholesome beverage. The flesh of the skunk we had sometimes dressed for dinner, and found it a remarkably rich and delicate food. On the 5th of December, the gentlemen of the party dined by invitation with Mr. M. Lisa. The principal Ioway chief was once at our camp ; he is a Rocky Mountains. 181 very intelligent Indian, with a solemn dignity of deportment, and would not deign to enter our houses or even to approach them until invited. He is said to have a more intimate know- ledge of the manners of the whites, than any other Indian of the Missouri, and to be acquainted with many of the words of our language, but will not willingly make use of them, fear- ing to express himself improperly, or not trusting to his pro- nunciation. He remained near Council Bluff in the autumn in order to be present at the councils with the different na- tions, and to observe the conduct of the whites towards them respectively, a considerable time after his nation had depart- ed down the river to their beaver trapping. After this he went with his family to the head waters of the Boyer, and during his stay there trapped sixty beaver ; when with us, he was about to go in search of his people. He had three wives with him, one of whom appeared to be about nine or ten years of age, and whom we mistook for his daughter, until he undeceived us. We showed him our books of en- gravings, with which he was highly pleased. The Indians almost all of them, delight to look over engravings, particu- larly those which represent animals; they are not soon fati- gued when employed in this way. This Indian is known by several names, as Grand Batture, Hard-heart, Sandbar, and in his own language, Wang-e-wa- ha. During our late contest with Great Britain, he turned his back upon his nation, in consequence of their raising the tomahawk upon our citizens, and crossing the Missouri, uni- ted his destiny with the Otoes, who received and treated him with distinguished respect. Last autumn his nation joined him, and submitted to his guidance ; so that the Ot- oes, Missouries, and Ioways were then united. Some time since in a transaction with a captain, formerly of the United States army, he thought himself grossly in- sulted, and demanded on the spot personal satisfaction, agree- ably to the custom of the whites, challenging his opponent to 182 Expedition to the single combat, with pistols or such other weapons as he might choose. He is esteemed the bravest and most intelligent of the Ioways, and amongst the Otoes he was associated with many equally brave with himself. But as there are national preju- dices amongst the Indians as well as amongst the whites, he has not escaped from many a keen allusion to his nation. In a quarrel, which arose from some expressions of this nature, letan knocked him down with a war-club. He has been in fifty battles, and has commanded in seven. He says the white people often request the Indians to ab- stain from war, and yet the white people continue to fight each other, as if they wished to monopolize the occupation of war, and thereby deprive the Indian of his principal ave- nue to honour and dignity. Several Omawhaws, who have been trapping in the coun- try opposite to Blackbird hill, remained with us last night. The principal one, A-ha-ga-nash-he, or the Upright horn, has a rather handsome Sioux squaw, to whom he appears to be much attached, paying her great attention in conversation, giving her a portion of his whiskey , and handing her the pipe to smoke. She is, however, not exempted from the ordinary employments of the Indian women, and we had an opportu- nity to-day of seeing her depart from Mr. Lisa's with a heavy load, consisting of the goods which her husband had received in exchange for his beaver, on her back, whilst he carried only a keg of whiskey slung over his shoulders, and his gun and hunting apparatus. Previously to the departure of the Omawhaws from our establishment this morning, the brother of one of them, who, report said, had been killed by the Sioux, arrived; he has been with aboutten lodges (about twenty men) of his tribe trapping on the Elk-horn, and they have taken about two hundred beavers. He has taken sixty himself, of which he presented his elder brother twenty, and is on his way to Mr. Lisa, to have a trader with merchan- Rocky Mountains, 183 dize sent to his party to deal for the skins. It is a singular circumstance, that this is the second instance of these two brothers meeting in this vicinity, after the one had been sup- posed to have been killed by the Sioux. A-ha-ga-nash-he, whom we invited to take up his lodgings for the night in our room, became alarmed at my repute as a medicine man, fearing that I would cast some spell upon him, or otherwise injure him by the operation of some potent mystic medicine: he removed his quarters to the adjoining room, where he seemed to think he was safe from my incan- tations. Our hunter, whose name is No-zun-da-je, or He that does not dodge, is esteemed a good hunter by his nation ; but he is not a distinguished warrior, although he has been in numerous battles. He says he has killed several red skins in action, but never yet had the honour to strike a body. He showed us the scars of many wounds, most of which he had inflicted on himself, when in mourning for the death of his relatives and friends, by thrusting arrows through the skin and a portion of the flesh of his arm. His brother, at the same time, showed many scars which he had caused by cut- ting out pieces from his body with a knife, on the same occa- sions. Several Omawhaws visited us on the 8th, and a party of three of them, who were in possession of a keg of whiskey, invited our hunter to accompany them, for the night, to " make his heart glad" with a portion of its contents. The Omawhaws, Otoes, Missouries, and Ioways are excessively attached to this destructive liquor. On the 9th December, Lieutenant Swift, in company with Mr. Pilcher of the Missouri Fur Company, set out on a visit to the Omawhaws. His course was first directed towards the Elk Horn river, tributary to the Platte, and af- terwards along the valley of the former, to the Omawhaw encampment, which he reached at the distance of about one 184 Expedition to the hundred and twenty miles. The country over which he travelled was almost entirely destitute of woodland ; the surface generally cut by numerous ravines ; the soil for the most part sandy, but in some instances enriched by a black loam. He returned to camp on the 23d, his companion having purchased of the Indians one hundred, and thirty beaver skins, besides raccoon and deer skins. 10th. By a recent occurrence, the late treaty of peace between the Otoes and Konzas was, on the eve of being infracted. The Otoes, who were encamped for hunting near the mouth of the Platte, had four horses stolen from them about two weeks since, and subsequently ten more. These robberies were immediately attributed to the Konzas, and a war party prepared themselves to march and retaliate upon that nation. Hashea however prevented them from going, saying that their father (Major O'Fallon) had been instru- mental in reconciling them to a peace with the Konzas, and it would be highly improper for them to strike a blow, without asking his opinion upon the subject. It seems more probable that the horses have been taken either by the Sauks or Ioways. The latter appears to be a faithless people ; they obtained a considerable quantity of goods on credit, last fall, from the Missouri Fur ComDanv. and now, we are informed, instead of returning to discharge their debts, they are on their way down the river to barter their beaver at Fort Osage. It is said they will inhabit their old village, on the river Des Moines, the ensuing season. 12th. Many Indians visited us yesterday and to-day, some of whom brought jerked deer meat, mockasins, &c. to exchange for their favourite drink, and for trinkets. But as we have none of the latter, and as the former is interdicted from them by our laws, we are not authorized to make any purchases. That they do contrive to get whis- key elsewhere, perhaps of the traders, we have abun- dant proof. Yesterday a squaw got drunk, and made / Rocky Mountains. 185 much noise ; but her companions, after much ado, carried her off to their encampment. As we were cutting up a log for fuel, one of the Omaw- haws seeing a knot or protuberance of the wood, suitable to form into a bowl, requested us to cut it off for him ; but not choosing to gratify him in that manner, we offered the axe we were using, that he might cut it in his own way j he, however, would not accept of it, but pointed to the palm of his hand, giving us to understand that such labour would make his hand sore and hard; he then called one of his squaws, who immediately went to work, and handled the axe very dexterously. Observing several young Indians passing, I indicated to her the propriety of requesting one of them to assist her, but she laughed significantly, as if she would say — you are ironical. The Indians are very fickle in bargaining. An Indian, some time since, exchanged his rifle for Mr. Dougherty's shot gun ; yesterday he reversed the bargain, giving a pair of mockasins in return ; and this morning he requested to exchange again, in which he was gratified. A squaw offered to exchange mockasins for a couple of our military stocks. We could not conceive to what use she would apply them, but, upon inquiry, we learned that she wished to ornament the crupper of her horse with them. The stone quarry, which supplied limestone for building chimnies at camp Missouri, was situate at the distance of an hundred yards below our cantonment. The labourers that were employed in this quarry opened upon many large fis- sures, in which were found a number of serpents that had entered there for the purpose of hybernating. Of these, three species appear to be new.* *!. Coluber flavinentris. Olivaceous, beneath yellow; inferior jaw be neath white; scales destitute of cat lea. Description. B)dy above olivaceous, tinged with brown on the verte bra; scales impunctnred at tip, posterior edges and basal edge black; skin vol. I. 24 186 Expedition to the This morning three Omawhaws were fired upon by a war party of five Ioway Indians, and two were wounded ; this oc- curred on the east side of the river, nearly opposite to our cantonment. When they fired, each one called out his name black: beneath yelliw, rather paler behind; inferior jaw beneath while to the origin of the plates; head with nine plates above, two longitudinal series, of about four large scales each, intervening on each side between the two posterior plates aad the three posterior supermaxillary plates; intermaxillary plate somewhat heptagonal, dilated, emarginate at the mouth, superior angle obtusely pointedf eye black brown, pupil deep black, surrounded by a whitish iiae, posterior canthus with two plates. Plates 176 scales 84 174 Total length ". 3 ft. 4 1-2 in. Tail ........ 8 5-8 Head to the tip of the maxillary bones . . 13-20 Another specimen plates 130 scales 91 Total length .... 3 ft. 11 3-8 in. Tail . . . . . 111-2 Three specimens were found. The inferior surface of one was im- maculate, but that of the smaller one had on each side of the plates an obsolete double series of reddish brown spots, irregularly alternate, ou each side; these were so indistinct as not to be noticed at the first glancs of the eye. The tip of the tail in this last is deficient. 2 Coluber parietalis. Above blackish with three yellowish fillets and about eighty red concealed spots; beneath bluish, a series of black dots each side. Description. Body above black-brown, a vertebral greenish yellow vitta, and a lateral pale yellow one, beneath which is a fuliginous shade: betweeu the dorsal and lateral vitta are about eighty concealed red spots or semifascias, formed upon the skin and lateral margins of the scales, ob- solete towards the cloaca, at which the series terminates; scales elongated, all carinate, and slightly reflexed at the lateral edges; head dark olive, beneath white, parietal plates with a double white spot at the middle of the suture; intermaxillary plate subhexagonal, emarginate at the mouth, and at tip hardly angulated, almost rounded in that part, transverse diame- ter nearly double the longitudinal; superior maxillary plates white, inter- mediate sutures blackish; eye yellowish, pupil black, posterior canthus two scaled; beneath bluish green, a longitudinal series of black dots each side at the base of the scuta, terminating at the cloaca. Plates 165 scales 88 Total length . . . 1ft. 3 3- 10 in. Tail .... 49-10 This is a common serpent in this section of country. In order to ren- der the lateral red spots very apparent, it is necessary to dilate the skin, when they exhibit a very striking character, being of a Vermillion red. It varies in having the lateral series of red spots alternating with a series of smaller red spots nearer to the dorsal line. In common with ordinalus it has a double common white spot on the parietal plates, and a series of black spots on each side of the inferior sur- face of the body; but in addition to the proportions of plates and scales Rocky Mountains. 18 •■ agreeably to the Indian custom. A party of Omawhaws then assembled, and pursued them about 15 miles, but without success. Two Oto warriors, and a boy, nephew of Ishta-gre-ja, Gray Eyes the elder, visited us this afternoon. They have been hunting on Blue-Water creek, in the neighbourhood of the Konzas hunting camps, arfd not distant from the village of the latter ; they have been so fortunate as to take one hundred and forty beavers, the skins of which they left at their village, under the care of the son of Gray Eyes and their squaws ; their business in this quarter is to look out for the best market for their peltries. They say it was certainly not the Konzas who stole the horses from their brethren, who are encamped near the confluence of the Platte. They attribute that theft to the Ioways, who, they say, are still fools, as they always have proved themselves to be. and length of tail, tlie red colour of the lateral concealed spots, very suf- ficiently denote its specific dissimilarity, from that most common of the ser- pents of the United States. 3. Coluber proximus. Body above black, trilineate, vertebral line ocraceous, lateral one yellowish, a double white spot on the parietal plates. Description. Body above black, with three vitta;; vertebral vitta ocra- ceous occupying the dorsal series of scales and a moiety of each one of the second scries each side; latteral vitta greenish-yellow, occupying more than the moiety of the seven and eight series of scales; beneath the lateral vitta the black is tinged with greenish-blue; head with seven olivaceous plates above; parietal ones with a double, white, longitudinal spot; inter- maxillary plate pentangular, the superior termination obtusely rounded; posterior canthus of the eye three scaled, of which the two inferior ones are white; anterior canthus white; supermaxillary plates bluish-green; maxih. ary angles with a small black dot; inferior maxilla white beneath; beneall- pale greenish-blue. Total length 2 ft. 7 1-4 in. Plates T/8 Tail 7 3-4 Scales 86 Resembles Coluber saurita, ordinatus and parietalis. Numerous longi tudinal, abbreviated, white lines, may be observed by dilating the black portioi*of the skin as in ordinatus, these lines or spots are obsolete upon the neck and upon the posterior portion of the body. The extreme tip of the tail is wanting in tins specimen. It differs from saurita in the numerical proportion with its subcandal scales bear to its plates; from ordinatus it ma> be distinguished by being destitute of the two series of black points beneath; it is a much more slen der serpent than parielalis, and the tail i* proportionally longer. 188 Expedition to the 30th. In the morning a nimbus from the north. An imper- fect parhelion appeared at sunrise, consisting of three lumin- ous spots, at about 22° distant from each other, in the hori- zon j one of them was the real place of the sun, and the oth- ers were to the north and south of it. As the sun ascended towards the zenith, the mock suns continued to ascend equal- ly and parallel with it, but became gradually fainter, until they disappeared near the zenith. Evening. A complete paraselene appeared about the moon, of the diameter of 45 degrees. The mercury was below Zero the greater part of the day, in Fahrenheit's thermometer. 31st. Several Canadians, in the employ of the Missouri Fur Company, came this evening to dance and sing before us, agreeably to the custom of their countrymen, in celebra- tion of the termination of the year. They were adorned with paint after the Indian manner, clothed with bison robes, and had bells attached to different parts of their dress, So completely were they disguised, that three of their employ- ers, who happened to be present, had much difficulty in re- cognizing them. This dance is called La Gineolet, and may have had its origin in the same cause that produced our Belshnickles, who make their appearance on Christmas eve. We gave them what was expected, whiskey, flour, and meat. January 6th 1820. Mr. Graham and I measured the width of the river in two places, a short distance below our can- tonment, and a short distance above ; the latter gave two hun- dred and seventy- seven and one third yards, and the for- mer one hundred yards. We hear the barking of the prairie wolves every night about us ; they venture close to our huts ; last night they ran down and killed a doe, within a short distance of our huts ; this morning the remains of the carcase were found, consisting only of bones and skin, Mr. Fontenelle, in the employ of the Missouri Fur Com- pany, who has been absent for some time trading with one of Mocky Mountains. 189 the bands of the Omawhaws, called to-day on his return ; this band had been much necessitated for food, subsisting for some time upon the fruit of the red haws, which the squaws sought for beneath the proper trees, under the snow. He met with some of the nation of Sioux, called Gens de Feuille by the French. They have been much thinned in numbers by a disorder, which, from the description given of it, may be the quinsy. This same band is said to have suffered much from the small pox last autumn. They were also now nearly starv- ed for want of food ; but they said if they could hold out until they arrived at Min-da-wa-cong, or Medicine lake, (on the maps Spirit lake) they would do very well, as they had there a considerable quantity of wild oats buried or cache as the French say. 13th. Ietan,* an Oto, of whom we have before spoken, visit- ed us to-day, for the purpose of getting two gunlocks mend- ed. He left his people at the Republican fork of the Konza .river, and intends as soon as he returns, to lead a party in pursuit of bisons, which he says are in plenty on the Loup fork of the Platte, about sixty miles distant from us. 14th. Ietan called this morning, and as some of our par- ty were going to visit at Camp Missouri, he accompanied them, in order to obtain Major Ol Fallon's permission for his nation to go to war with the Konzas. He informed the agent that individuals of that nation had sometime since stolen horses from them. That one of the losers, Big Sol- dier, had gone to the Konza village to demand the horses ; but seeing a number of horses belonging to that nation, when he arrived near the village, he could not resist the temp- ation of immediately retaliating by seizing several, and ap- propriating them to his own use. But, Ietan said, he thought the honour of his nation still called for war, and he solicited the acquiescence of the agent in that measure. The *Sha-mon-e-ku6-se. 190 Expedition to the Major replied, that his opinion ought to have been asked previously to the retaliatory measure, which had already been prematurely taken, as they were not certain that the Konzas were the offenders, and that this ought to have been ascertained before any depredation on the Konzas had been committed. But the course which he would now advise them to pursue was, to send a deputation to the Konzas, for the purpose of ascertaining the fact, to return the Konzas' horses, and to demand their own. This course seemed sa- tisfactory to the warrior, who, however, stated that if the Konzas attempted to steal horses from them in future, he would certainly lead a war party himself against them. 35th. Mr. Woods, of the Missouri Fur Company, has returned from a trading excursion. He reports that he saw several of the Pawnee caches, which had been broken open and robbed of their corn by the Omawhaws. This is by no means a rare occurrence with the Indians, but it does not appear that it has ever led to hostilities between nations ; they say that when a person is in want of food, he has a right to take any he can find. Corporal Norman, who went out this morning to kill rab- bits, returned, about noon, with twenty-seven, which he had killed with single balls. February 9th. Several Oto Indians have visited us with- in this day or two, and one of them, Ca-he-ga-in-ya, remained with us last night; he was finely dressed, had on a chief's coat laced with silver, and a profusion of wampum about his neck, and suspended to his ears ; he departed this morning, on his way to the Omawhaws, to trade for horses. The ice on the Missouri is sixteen inches in thickness, that of the Boyer creek fifteen and three fourths. 12th. Messrs. Dougherty, Peale, and myself, with an as- sistant, encamped at a pond near the Boyer to obtain fish ; we cut several holes in the ice of the pond, and obtained one Otter and a number of small fishes, amongst which three Rocky Mountains.. 191 species appeared to be new ; several specimens were of the genus Gasterosteus. 15th. Mr. Zenoni, of the Fur Company, who departed the twenty-seventh ultimo on a trading expedition, returned) and remained with us last night. He and two men had as- cended the Elk Horn about twenty-five miles higher than Mr. Swift had been, but were not successful in finding any Indians. And although they saw a few bisons and antelopes and Elks, they were not so fortunate as to kill any game for subsistence, excepting three turkeys ; so that they returned in a state of considerable exhaustion, having been, for some time, on an allowance of a little maize per day. He found that the upper part of the Elk Horn had not frozen during the severe weather, but still remained open. This circum- stance seems to indicate the flow of a great quantity of spring water, or water of a medium temperature, in that part of the stream, requiring time to cool in its passage, before it can congeal. 19th. The sand is blown by the violence of the wind from the sand bars of the river, so as to resemble a dense fog. We have been hitherto very well supplied with fresh meat, from game killed principally by Mr. Peale, who, on one occasion, killed two deer at a single shot and with one ball, but we are now reduced again to salt pork of a very inferior quality. The party, with the exception of myself, continue to enjoy good health. 22nd. Messrs. Dougherty and Peale returned from a hunt, having killed twelve bisons, out of a herd of several hundreds they met with near Sioux river, and brought us a seasonable supply of meat. They saw several herds of elk, and yesterday they saw swans, geese, and ducks flying up the river. A dinner and ball were given at Camp Missouri, in honour of the day, to which our party were invited. 24th. Mr. Graham and I endeavoured to ascertain the rapidity of the current of this part of the Missouri, at the ■ 192 Expedition to the present low water. We availed ourselves of a long vacancy in the ice to float a porter bottle, to which the proper speci- fic gravity was given, by partially filling it with water, it was attached to a cord of one hundred and twenty-two feet io length ; it floated this distance in six successive experiments in the following several times 1' 07"—-!' 04" — 1' 07 1-2" — 1' 05-— V 07"— 1 07", the mean of which is 1' 06 1-2" near- ly, giving a velocity of 1 mile 441 yards 1 1-2 feet per hour. By these experiments, however, the superficial current or stratum only was indicated, and as we had reason to suppose that this stratum was more impeded by friction against the inferior surface of the ice than it would be by the atmosphere it became an object to ascertain the average velocity of the different depths. With this view a staff ten feet long was made to float vertically, by means of a weight attached to its inferior extremity ; a line of one hundred and seventy- eight feet in length was run out, by this arrangement, dur- ing the following intervals of time, in four experiments, viz. 1' 21"— 1' 21"— 1' 19"— 1' 21", of which the mean is 1' 20 1-2", which would seem to indicate a current of the ve- locity of 1 mile 893 yards 1 foot per hour. Thus the average velocity of ten feet in depth of the current of the Missouri, is greater by almost 452 yards, in a single hour, than that of a superficial stratum of about six inches depth, during the ice-bound state of the river. During these experiments the atmosphere was nearly calm. 25th. Cooked for dinner the entire hump of a bison, after the manner of the Indians ; this favourite part of the animal was dissected from the vertebrae, after which the spinous processes were taken out, and the denuded part was covered with skin, which was firmly sewed to that of the back and sides of the hump; the hair was burned and pulled off, and the whole mass exhibiting something of a fusiform shape, was last evening placed in a hole dug in the earth for its reception, which had been previously heated by ♦ Rocky Mountains. 193 means of a strong fire in and upon it. It was now covered with cinders and earth, to the depth of about one foot, and a strong fire was made over it. In this situation it remained until it was taken up for the table to-day, when it was found to be excellent food. Mr. Lisa and family dined with us by invitation. That we have sometimes food in great sufficiency, the provision upon our table this day will sufficiently attest. It consisted of the entire bison hump, above mentioned ; the rump of a bison roasted ; boiled bison meat ; two boiled bison tongues ; the spinous processes roasted in the manner of spare ribs ; sausages made of minced tender loin and fat, &c. It is true that we have no vegeta- bles whatever ; but having been so long estranged from them we scarcely regret their absence. Their place is supplied by excellent wheat flour, of which our cook pre- pares us bread fully equal, in point of excellence, to any that we have ever eaten. The above repast was prepared for eleven persons, of whom two were ladies. The collation was succeeded by coffee as a dessert. February 28th. I ascertained the temperature of spring water, which, however, was somewhat exposed to the atmos- phere, but in a shaded situation, and in a ravine, to be 47° ; that of the atmosphere being at the same time 56°, and that of the river 32°, of Fahrenheit's scale. Wednesday, March 8th. The Big Elk, Big Eyes, and Wash-co-mo-ne-a visited us to-day on their way, with their attendants, to the traders with jerked bison meat. They pre- sented us with five large pieces. The Big Elk, principal Omawhaw chief, is much pitted with the small pox, and is of commanding presence. He speaks with great emphasis, and remarkably distinct. He observed that we must think them strange people to be thus constantly wandering about, during the cold of winter, instead of remaining comfortably housed in their village ; " but," said he, " our poverty and necessities compel us to do so, in pursuit of game ; yet we sometimes vol. i. 25 194 Expedition to the venture forth for our pleasure, as in the present instance, to visit the white people whom we are always delighted to see." Big Eyes is a large and remarkably muscular man. His nose is that of the European, the opposite to the Roman curve ; he is second chief of the Omawhaws. The Omawhaw chiefs remained with us the greater part of the following day, and presented us with eight more pieces of jerked meat. We presented them in return with some to- bacco, &c. The Big Elk made us a considerable harangue, with all the remarkable vivacity, fluency, and nerve of In- dian eloquence, in which he said that he would address me by the title of father ; " and you," said he to Mr. Dougherty, " whom I know so well, I will call brother." " The In- dians around," said he, " who tell the white people that they love them, speak falsely, as is proved by their killing the white people ; but my nation truly love you, they have ne- ver stained their hands with the blood of a white man, and this much cannot be said by any nation of this land." He ad- ded a strong expression, that such was his attachment to us, that he believed that he should, at a future day, be a white man himself. When they took their leave, we advised them not to visit camp Missouri, telling them, what in fact they had already been informed of, that many of the soldiers were sick ; (we did not wish them to observe the extent of the malady, with which that camp was afflicted,) but Big Elk remarked, that it had been his intention to go there, and it was not fear that could prevent him ; his life was at the disposal of the great Wahconda only, and he could not die before his time ; " but," said he, " agreeably to your request I certainly will not go." Of all the objects which we exhibited to the view of the chiefs, quicksilver (mercury) seemed to excite the most sur- prise ; they weighed the vessel, in which it was contained, in their hands, dipped their fingers into it, and were surprised at the resistance which it offered to the immersion, and what Rocky Mountains. 195 appeared most singular was, that they should be withdrawn without any appearance of moisture upon them ; that they might not be deceived they repeated the experiment again and again. A couple of iron nails were then thrown upon the mercury, and as these did not sink to the bottom, they pressed them down with their fingers ; but finding that the nails constantly arose again to the surface, the Big Elk re- turned the vessel to me, saying, with a smile of pleasure strongly impressed on his strongly marked countenance, that the fluid was the Omawhaw's Wahconda. The last load of stone, which was taken from the quarry early in December last, was prevented from reaching camp Missouri by the floating ice ; the boat was driven ashore and abandoned. It was now observed floating down the river, with a large quantity of drift ice, and, when op- posite our cantonment, was readily secured by Major Ketch- um, without having received any injury whatever. Major Ketchum, with a detachment of men, has been engaged for two or three days past in cutting out of the ice, three of the boats from our harbour. These, together with one, which is at Camp Missouri, are intended to convey the sick from that camp down the river to Fort Osage. Camp Missouri has been sickly, from the commencement of winter ; but its situa- tion is at this time truly deplorable. More than three hun- dred soldiers are, or have been sick, and nearly one hundred have died. This fatality is occasioned by the Scurvy (Scor- butus). Individuals who are siezed rarely recover, as they cannot be furnished with the proper aliments ; they have no vegetables, fresh meat, nor antiscorbutics, so that the patients grow daily worse, and entering the hospital is considered by them as a certain passport to the grave. Yet it is some consolation to reflect that all the- science, care, and attention of the healing art have been exerted for the relief of the suf- ferers by Doctors Gale and Moore, as far as their present insulated situation will admit. The causes, which have been 1 96 Expedition to the productive of all this disease, are not distinctly known, although there are many supposed ones to which it has been imputed. But it was generally remarked that the hunters, who were much employed in their avocation, and almost constantly absent from Camp Missouri, escaped the malady. On the 19th Mr. Immel, of the Missouri Fur Company, returned from an expedition to the Sioux. During his stay in the vicinity of the pseudo volcanoes, which occur on the banks of the Missouri, a tremendous subterranean ex- plosion occurred, which much alarmed the Indians, as well as the whites ; the concussion was succeeded by a large volume of dense smoke from the aperture of the volcano, by the sinking in of a portion of the hill in the rear, and by the cracking of the ice in the river. Messrs., Peale, Swift, and Dougherty departed in a periogue yesterday, on their way to the Bowyer creek to hunt. An igneous meteor, or Jack o' lantern was seen on the evening of the 20th, near our cantonment ; it was described to me as of the size of a double fist, with a caudate appendage or tail of the length of about two feet ; it emitted a light of the colour of the flame of burning sulphur ; it passed along the river shore nearlv over the observer's head, at but a very small elevation, nearly in a right line, with an equable mo- tion, about as rapid as the flight of a bird, and with an au- dible sound like the blowing of a moderate stream of air through a thicket ; it was visible about one half a minute, when it crossed the river, became paler, and disappeared. The waters of the Missouri have been as clear during the winter as ordinary rivers ; the earthy matter, which they hold in suspension during the temperate and warm weather, and which every person, who views the river, remarks as charac- teristic of its waters, subsides as soon as the wintry tem- perature occurs, but is again renewed in the Spring. They have been gradually more and more turbid, these two or three days past. The ice in the river broke up on the 29th lilt., and entirely disappeared on the 19th instant. Hocky Mountains. 197 Great flights of geese, swans, ducks, brant, and cranes have been passing up the river, at their usual migrating al- titude above the surface of the earth ; but this migration of these aquatic birds has nearly ceased. April 5th. A war party of Omawhaws arrived at the trading house of the Missouri Fur Company. They are one of three parties, which have been for ten days past in pur- suit of a war party of thirteen Sauks, who carried off a num- ber of horses from near the Omawhaw village. They pur- sued the trail of the Sauks until they lost it nearly opposite to this place ; they nevertheless continued the pursuit in the direction which they supposed the enemy had taken, but are now returning unsuccessful ; they say they are in hopes that one of the other parties may overtake them. It seems probable that it was this same party of Sauks who fired upon a soldier on the 30th ult. 6th. The war party mentioned yesterday visited us this morning, on their way home. They danced for us, and af- ter receiving bread, buffaloe meat, and tobacco, departed well pleased. In the afternoon another war party of eleven Omawhaws, who had also been in pursuit of the same Sauks, arrived. We were notified of their proximity by hearing their war song, and going out, we observed them at a short distance arranged in a line, from the centre of which were elevated two handsome streamers, which, upon their ap- proach, we found to be two long lances, to which feathers of different colours, fancifully arranged, were attached. The partizan advanced, and made us a speech, as usual, in which he gave an account of their adventures, and concluded by- praising the kindness of the whites, their hospitality, and their greatness in arts and arms. This address being well understood to aim at food and lodging, though neither of these were mentioned, we supplied them with bison meat, bread, and maize, and invited them to remain with us dur~ 198 Expedition to the ing the night to rest themselves in comfort and safety. They immediately sat down, and, the food being portioned out by one of the warriors, they proceeded to eat with the appear- ance of such appetites as convinced us that their fast had been of long duration. In conversation during the evening the partizan said that they had followed a considerable trail, supposing that the Sauks had taken that direction ; that they observed stakes stuck in the ground at certain distances, and the trees blazed as far as they went upon that trail. He in- quired if we knew the reason of such marks ; he was then informed that it was to indicate the course of a road which was to be made in that direction, and that if he had travelled far enough upon the trail he would have met with towns of white people, who would have treated him well. After mus- ing sometime, he observed, that they had travelled a good distance on that rout, and having occasion to deviate a short distance from it, they found when they returned that a white man and three horses had passed along during their absence ; (this was Lieutenant Fields, the express,) they immediately dispatched two of their young men back to follow him, and to learn if he had met the fugitive Sauks ; but they could not overtake him. " We continued on," said Naugh-km-ne (or the Left hand^) " with all speed ; but at length, being almost famished, we were necessitated to halt and hunt ; of course we gave over the pursuit. Not wishing to return to qur nation without obtaining some trophy, we resolved to go to Nishnebottona in order to strike upon the Ioways, who, we had been informed, were at that place ; but when we arrived there, we had the mortification to learn that they were gone ; we must, therefore, return without these poor young men having any opportunity to distinguish themselves." " Did you not," we asked, " make peace with the Ioways last sea- son?" " Yes, it is true we made a kind of peace with them, but you know they are bad men ; we do not like them ; the whites do not like them ; perhaps it was a party of that nation, Rocky Mountains, 199 and not Sauks, that stole our horses, and you know it was very hard to be obliged, after all our difficulties and starva- tions, to return to our people without either scalps or horses. We wished to obtain some trophy that should repay us for our toils." In the evening they sang for our amusement a number of tunes, whilst two or three danced as well as they could in our small chamber. A negro belonging to the Fur Company coming in on an errand, they spoke of him as the black whiteman, and one of them jokingly said, he was a Wasabajinga, or little black bear. The Indians departed early on the 7th, with many thanks for the attention they had received. Before they went, they presented to us a wild cat, which they had shot, but we ad- vised them to keep it to eat on the way home, upon which they thanked us for it, as if they had never owned it. 11th. We learn that a third war party of Omawhaws, who departed in pursuit of the Sauks before either of the others, were met by a strong party of that nation, who were on their way to the Omawhaw village ; they however escaped from them with the loss of one man killed and several wounded ; the loss of the Sauks is not known. The party speak highly of one of their number, a boy of twelve years, who, at a critical juncture of the engagement, ran up to several of the enemy and flashed his gun three times at them ; he escaped unhurt. CHAPTER X.* Account of the Omawhaws — Their Manners and Customs and religious rites — Historical notices of Blackbird, late principal chief A great portion of the information contained in the fol- lowing pages, respecting the Missouri Indians, and particu- larly the Omawhaws, was obtained from Mr. John Dough- erty, deputy Indian agent for the Missouri, who had an ex- cellent opportunity of making himself acquainted with the natives, by residing for a time in the Omawhaw village, and by visiting all the different nations of this river. This gentleman with great patience, and in the most oblig- ing manner, answered all the questions which I proposed to him, relating to such points in their manners, habits, opinions and history, as we had no opportunity of observ- ing ourselves. And we have much to regret that it is not in our power to present the reader with a biographical sketch of this amiable and intrepid traveller. The permanent Omawhaw village is situate on Omaw- haw creak, within two and an half miles of the Missouri river, and about one hundred miles by water above Engi- neer Cantonment, and seventy by land. It consists of dirt lodges, similar to those of the Konzas already described. Omawhaw creek takes its rise from the bluffs in the rear of the village, and discharges into the river, at the distance of seven miles below. About two miles from the town, it di- lates into a large pond, which is filled with luxuriant aquatic * The succeeding chapters, which relate to the manners and customs of the Indians, chiefly the Omawhaws, are from the notes of Mr. Say. Rocky Mountains, 201 plants, amongst which the zizania and nelumbium, are par- ticularly worthy of note, both for their beauty and im- portance for economical purposes. A fertile prairie, of the length of four miles, by one mile and three quarters wide, is outspread in front of the village, and is bounded near the river by a narrow line of timber. The inhabitants occupy their village not longer than five months in the year. In April they arrive from their hunt- ing excursions, and in the month of May, they attend to their horticultural interests, and plant maize, beans, pump- kins and watermelons, besides which they cultivate no other vegetable. They also, at this season, dress the bison skins, which have been procured during the winter hunt, for the traders, who generally appear for the purpose of obtaining them. The young men, in the mean time, are employed in hunting within the distance of seventy or eighty miles around, for beaver, otter, deer, muskrat, elk, &c. When the trading and planting occupations of the people are terminated, and provisions begin to fail them, which oc- curs generally in June, the chiefs assemble a council for the purpose of deliberating upon the further arrangements ne- cessary to be made. This assembly decrees a feast to be prepared on a certain day, to which all the distinguished men of the nation are to be invited, and one of their number is appointed to have it prepared in his own lodge. On the return of this individual to his dwelling, he petitions his squaws to have pity on him, and proceed to clean, and ad- just the apartment, to spread, the mats and skins for seats, and to collect wood and bring water for cooking. He re- quests them to provide three or four large kettles, to prepare the maize, and to kill their fattest dog for a feast. The squaws generally murmur at this last proposition, being re- luctant to sacrifice these animals, which are so serviceable to them in carrying burdens, like the dogs of the oberating Tartars ; but when they are informed of the honour that vol. l. 26 202 Expedition to the awaits them, of feasting all the distinguished men, they un- dertake their duties with pride and satisfaction. When they have performed their part, the squaws give notice to the husband, who then calls two or three old pub- lic criers to his lodge ; he invites them to be seated near him, and after the ceremony of smoking, he addresses them in a low voice, directing them to pass through the village, and invite the individuals whom he names to them, to ho- nour him by their presence at the feast, which is now pre- pared, " speak in a loud voice," says he, " and tell them to bring their bowls and spoons." The criers having thus re- ceived their instructions, sally out together, and in concerc sing aloud as they pass, in various directions, through the village. In this song of invitation, the names of all the elect are mentioned. Having performed this duty, they re- turn to the lodge, and are soon followed by the chiefs and warriors. The host seats himself in the back part of the lodge fa- cing the entrance, where he remains during the ceremony. If the host is invested with the dignity of chief, he directs those who enter, where to seat themselves, so that the chiefs may be arranged on one side, and the warriors on the other ; if he is a warrior, he seats the principal chief of the village by his side, who whispers in his ear the situation which those who enter ought to occupy ; this intimation is repeat- ed aloud by the host. When the guests are all arranged, the pipe is lighted, and the indispensable ceremony of smoking succeeds. The principal chief Ongpatonga then rises, and extend- ing his expanded hand towards each in succession, (See language of signs, No. 43.) gives thanks to them individual- ly by name, for the honour of their company, and requests their patient attention to what he is about to say. He then proceeds somewhat in the following manner. " Friends and Relatives: we are assembled here, for the purpose of con- Rocky Mountains. 203 suiting respecting the proper course to pursue in our next hunting excursion, or whether the quantity of provisions at present on hand, will justify a determination to remain here to weed our maize. If it be decided to depart immediately, the subject to be then taken into view, will be the direction, extent, and object of our route ; whether it would be proper to ascend Running- Water Creek, (Ne-bra-ra, or Spreading water), or the Platte, (Ne-bres-kuh, or Flat water), or hunt the bison between the sources of those two streams ; or whe- ther we shall proceed farther, towards the Black hills of the south-west, in pursuit of wild horses, &c." Having thus disclosed the business of the council, he is frequently succeeded by an old chief, who thanks him for his attention to their wants, and advises the assembly to pay great attention to what he has said, as he is a man of truth, of knowledge, and of bravery ; he further assures them, that they have ample cause to return thanks to the great Wah- conda or Master of life, for having sent such a man amongst them. The assembly then take the subject into consideration, and after much conversation, determine upon a route, which Ongpatonga proposed in his speech. This chief, previous to the council, is careful to ascertain the opinions and wish- es of his people, and he speaks accordingly. He sometimes, however, meets with opposition from per- sons who propose other hunting grounds, but their discour- ses are filled with compliments to his superior knowledge, and good sense. The proceedings of the council, are uniformly conducted with the most perfect good order and decorum- Each speaker carefully abstains from militating against the sensibility of any of his hearers, and uncourteous expres- sions, towards each other on these occasions, are never heard. Generally at each pause of the speaker, the audi- ence testify their approbation aloud, by the interjection heh; 204 Expedition to the and as they believe that he has a just right to his own opi nions, however absurd they may appear to be, and opposite to their own, the expression of them excites no reprehen- sion, and if they cannot approve, they do not condemn un- less urged by necessity. During the council, the criers remain seated near the fire listening to the proceedings, and at the same time, attend- ing to the culinary apparatus, as neither the squaws nor the children are admitted. When the food is sufficiently cooked, the criers remove the kettles from the fire, and, at the proper time, one of them takes up a portion of the soup in a spoon, and after present- ing it towards each of the cardinal points with one hand, whilst the other is elevated, and the palm extended, he casts it into the ashes of the fire ; a small piece, of the choice part of the meat, is also sacrificed to the great Wahconda with the same formality, and is doubtless intended as an impetra- tory oblation. They then serve taut the food to the guests, placing the best portions of it before the chiefs. Each individual on the reception of his portion, returns his thanks to the host in such respectful expressions, as become his relative conse- quence, as How-je-ne-ha — How-we-sun-guh — How-na-ga-ha, &c, thank you father — thank you younger brother — thank you uncle, &c, after which they eat in silence. The criers help themselves out of the kettles, but are careful to leave a portion in those that are borrowed, to compensate for their use. The feast terminated, the ceremony of smoking succeeds, after which, the business and enjoyments of the council being concluded, the guests rise up in succession, and re- turning thanks to the host, pass out of the lodge in an orderly manner, first the warriors and afterwards the chiefs. The criers now sing through the village in praise of the host, thanking him before the people for his hospitality, re Rocky Mountains. 205 peating also the names of the chiefs who were present, and thanking them for their kindness to the old criers, who, they say, are disqualified by age, for any other occupations than those of eating, smoking, and talking ; they also com- municate to the people the resolutions of the council. The prospect of a journey is highly grateful to the squaws who lose no time in preparing for the day of departure, by actively and assiduously occupying themselves, in mending mockasins, and other clothing, preparing their pack-saddles and dog-sleds, and depositing in the earth, for safe keeping, all the moveables, which are not to be transported with them on the journey. 1 he men in the mean time amuse themselves with hunt- ing, playing with the hoop and stick, cards, dancing, &c, whilst at night the young warriors and beaux, are oc- cupied with affairs of gallantry, or contriving assignations. The young men also adorn themselves with paint, and do honour to chiefs, and distinguished braves, by dancing in their respective lodges. The day assigned for their departure having arrived, the squaws load their horses and dogs, and take as great a weight upon their own backs, as they can conveniently transport, and, after having closed the entrances to their several habi- tations, by placing a considerable quantity of brushwood be- fore them, the whole nation departs from the village. Those affluent chiefs and warriors, who are the owners of many horses, are enabled, to mount their families on horse-back, but the greater portion of the young men and squaws are necessarily pedestrian. Many of the latter, besides the heavy load upon their- backs, surmounted perhaps by an infant, lead a horse with one hand, on the load of which another child is often pla- ced, and properly secured there in a sitting posture. In the other hand, they often bear a heavy staff of wood, sharpen- ed to a broad edge at one end for the purpose of digging up 206 Expedition to the the Nu-ga-re, or ground apple, called by the French P amine blanche; a root resembling a long turnip, about the size of a hen's egg, with a rough, thick skin, and hard pith. It is sometimes eaten raw, and has a sweet taste, but is rather dry; or it is dried in the sun, and pulverized ; in this state it furnishes the chief ingredient of an excellent soup. The men scatter about in every direction, to reconnoitre the country for enemies and game, but notwithstanding the constant activity of the hunters, the people are often much necessitated for food, previously to their arrival within view of the bisons, an interval of fifteen or twenty days^ When at length the highly welcome news is brought, of the proximity of a herd of these animals, the nation proceeds to encamp at the nearest water course. The travelling huts, or as they are usually denominated skin lodges, are neatly folded up, and suspended to the pack- saddle of the horse, for the purpose of transportation. The poles intended to sustain it, are at one extremity laid upon the neck of the horse, whilst the opposite end trails upon the ground behind. When pitched, the skin lodge is of a high conic form ; they are comfortable, effectually excluding the rain, and in cold weather a fire is kindled in the centre, the smoke of which, passes off through the aperture in the top ; on one side of this aperture is a small triangular wing of skin, which serves for a cover in rainy weather, and du- ring the rigors of winter to regulate the ascent of the smoke. The door way is a mere opening in the skin, and closed when necessary, by the same material. They are often fan- cifully ornamented on the exterior, with figures, in blue and red paint, rudely executed, though sometimes depicted with no small degree of taste. The hunters, who are in advance of the main body on the march, resort to telegraphic signals, from an elevated posi- tion, to convey to the people information respecting their discoveries. If they see bisons, they throw up their robes Rocky Mountains. 207 in a peculiar manner, as a signal for a halt ; another dispo- sition of the robe, intimates the proximity of an enemy ; and if one of their party has been killed, two of the survivors communicate the intelligence, by running towards each other from a little distance, and on passing, one of them casts himself upon the earth. On perceiving these latter signals, the warriors of the na- tion cast the burdens from their horses, and with their mar- tial weapons, ride in full speed to meet them, exhibiting more the appearance of a race, than an ordinary advance to mortal combat. The hunters after making the signal for bisons, to induce the people to halt and encamp, return as expeditiously as possible, and on their approach are received with some ce- remony. The chiefs and magi are seated in front of their people, puffing smoke from their pipes, and thanking the Master of Life, with such expressions as "How-wa-con-da," " Thanks master of Life," — M How-nin-e-shet-ta-wa-con-da- a-mah-pan-ne-nah-pa-e-wa-rat-a-cum-ba-ra," " Thank you, Master of Life, here is smoke, I am poor, hungry, and want to eat." The hunters draw near^to the chiefs and magii, and in a low tone of voice inform them of the discovery of bisons. They are questioned as to the number, and reply by holding up to the view some small sticks in a horizontal position, and compare one herd at a stated distance with this stick, and another with that, &c. It is then the business of some old man or crier, to ha- rangue the people, informing them of the discovery, re- questing the squaws to keep in good heart, telling them they have endured many hardships with fortitude, that there is now a termination to their difficulties for the present, and that on the morrow the men will go in pursuit of the bisons, and without doubt bring them plenty of meat. On all occasions of public rejoicings, festivals, dances, or general hunts, a certain number of resolute warriors are pre- 208 Expedition to the viously appointed, to preserve order, and keep the peace. In token of their office, they paint themselves entirely black ; usually wear the crow, and arm themselves with a whip or war-club, with which they punish on the spot, those who misbehave, and are at once both judges and executioners. Thus at the bison hunts they knock down or flog those, whose manoeuvres tend to frighten the game, before all are ready, or previously to their having arrived at the proper point, from which to sally forth upon them. Four or five such officers, or soldiers, are appointed at a council of the chiefs held in the evening, to preserve order amongst the hunters for the succeeding day. On the following morning, all the men, excepting the su- perannuated, depart early in pursuit of the favourite game. They are generally mounted, armed with bows and arrows. The soldiers of the day accompany the rapidly moving ca- valcade on foot, armed with war-clubs, and the whole are preceded by a footman bearing a pipe. On coming in sight of the herd, the hunters talk kindly to their horses, applying to them the endearing names of Father, brother, uncle, &£.; they petition them not to fear the bisons, but to run well, and keep close to them, but at the same time to avoid being gored. The party having approached as near to the herd, as they suppose the animals will permit, without taking alarm, they halt, to give the pipe- bearer, an opportunity to perform the ceremony of smoking, which is considered necessary to their success. He lights his pipe, and remains a short time with his head inclined, and the stem of the pipe extended towards the herd. He then smokes, and puffs the smoke towards the bisons, towards the heavens, and the earth, and finally to the cardinal points successively. These last they dis- tinguish by the terms, sunrise, sunset, cold country, and warm country, or they designate them collectively, by the phrase of the four winds, Ta-da-sa-ga-to-ba. Rocky Mountains. 209 The ceremony of smoking being performed, the word for starting is given by Ongpatonga. They immediately sepa- rate into two bands, who pass in full speed to the right and left, and perform a considerable circuit, with the object of enclosing the herd, at a considerable interval, between them. They then close in upon the animals, and each man en- deavours to kill as many of them as his opportunity per- mits. It is upon this occasion, that the Indians display their horsemanship, and dexterity in archery. Whilst in full run. they discharge the arrow with an aim of much certainty, so that it penetrates the body of the animal behind the shoul- der. If it should not bury itself so deeply as they wish, they are often known to ride up to the enraged animal, and withdraw it. They observe the direction and depth to which the arrow enters, in order to ascertain whether or not the wound is mortal, of which they can judge with a con- siderable degree of exactness ; when a death wound is in- flicted, the hunter raises a shout of exultation, to prevent others from pursuing the individual of which he considers himself certain. He then passes in pursuit of another, and so on, until his quiver is exhausted, or the game has passed beyond his further pursuit. The force of the arrow, when discharged by a dexterous and athletic Indian, is very great, and we were even credi- bly informed, that under favourable circumstances, it has been known to pass entirely through the body of a bison, and actually to fly some distance, or fall to the ground on the opposite side of the animal. Notwithstanding the apparent confusion of this engage- ment, and that the same animal is sometimes feathered by ar- rows from different archers, before he is despatched, or consid- ered mortally wounded, yet as each man knows his own arrows from all others, and can also estimate the nature of the wound, whether it would produce a speedy death to the animal vol. r. 27 210 Expedition to the quarrels respecting the right of property in the prey seldom occur, and it is consigned to the more fortunate individual, whose weapon penetrated the most vital part. The chase having terminated, each Indian can trace back his devious rout to the starting place, so as to recover any small article he may have lost. This surrounding chase, the Omawhaws distinguish by the name of Ta-wan-a-sa. A fleet horse well trained to the hunt, runs at the proper distance, with the reins thrown upon his neck, parallel with the bison, turns as he turns, and does not cease to exert his speed until the shoulder of the animal is presented, and the fatal arrow is implanted there. He then complies with the motion of his rider, who leans to one side, in order to direct his course to another bison. Such horses as these are reserved by their owners exclusively for the chase, and are but rarely sub- jected to the drudgery of carrying burdens. When the herd has escaped, and those that are only wounded or disabled are secured, the hunters proceed to flay, and cut up the slain. Formerly, when the chiefs possessed a greater share of power than they now do, one of them would advance to- wards a carcase, which struck his fancy, either from its magnitude or fatness, and the rightful owner would relin- quish it to him without a word ; but they now seldom put the generosity of the people thus to the test. Some individual will usually offer his bison to the medi- cine, either voluntarily, or at the request of a chief, and on the succeeding day, it is cooked, and all the distinguished men are invited to partake of the feast. In the operation of butchering, a considerable knowledge of the anatomical structure of the animal is exhibited, in lay- ing open the muscles properly, and extending them out into the widest and most entire surfaces, by a judicious dissec- tion. Rocky Mountains. 211 If they are much pressed by hunger, they in the first place open the flank, in order to obtain the kidneys, which are then eaten without waiting for the tardy process of culinary pre- paration. A hunter, who has been unsuccessful, assists some one in skinning and cutting up, after which he thrusts his knife in the part he wishes for his own share, and it is given to him. If the squaws should arrive, the knife is resigned to them, whilst the men retire a short distance from the scene, to smoke, and rest themselves. The slaughtered animals are chiefly and almost exclusive- ly cows, selected from the herd ; the bulls being eatable only in the months of May and June. Every eatable part of the animal is carried to the camp, and preserved, excepting the feet and the head ; but the brains are taken from the skull for the purpose of dressing the skin, or converting it into Indian leather. Those skins which are obtained during this season are known by the name Summer skins, and are used in the construction of their skin lodges, and for their personal cloathing for summer wear. Three squaws will transport all the peices of the carcase of a bison, excepting the skin, to the camp, if the latter is at any moderate distance. And it is their province to prepare the meat, &c. for keeping. The vertebrae are comminuted, by means of stone axes, si- milar to those which are not unfrequently ploughed up out of the earth in the Atlantic states; the fragments are then boiled, and the rich fat, or medulla, which rises, is carefully skimmed off and put up in bladders for future use. The muscular coating of the stomach is dried; the smaller intes- tines are cleaned and inverted so as to include the fat, that had covered their exterior surface, and then dried; the larger intestines, after being cleaned, are stuffed with meat-, and cooked for present eating. 212 Expedition to the The meat, with the exception of that of the shoulders or hump, as it is called, is then dissected with much skill into large thin slices, and dried in the sun, or jerked over a slow fire, on a low scaffold. The bones of the thighs, to which a small quantity of flesh is left adhering, are placed before the fire until the meat is sufficiently roasted, when they are broken, and the meat and marrow afford a most delicious repast- These, together with the tongue and hump, are esteemed the best parts of the animals. The meat, in its dried state, is closely condensed together into quadrangular packages, each of a suitable size, to attach conveniently to one side of the packsaddle of a horse. The dried intestines are interwoven together into the form of mats, and tied up into packages of the same form and size. They then proceed to cache, or conceal in the earth these acquisitions, after which they continue onward in pursuit of other herds of their favourite animal. The nation return towards their village in the month of August, having visited for a short time the Pawnee villages, for the purpose of trading their guns for horses. They are sometimes so successful, in their expedition, in the accumulation of meat, as to be obliged to make double trips, returning about mid-day for half the whole quantity, which was left in the morning. When within two or three days journey of their own village, runners are dispatched to it, charged with the duty of ascertaining the safety of it, and the state of the maize. On the return of the nation, which is generally early in September, a different kind of employment awaits the ever industrious squaws. The property buried in the earth is to be taken up and arranged in the lodges, which are cleaned out, and put in order. The weeds which during their absence had grown up, in every direction through the village, are cut down and removed. # Rocky Mountains. 213 I A sufficient quantity of sweet corn is next to be prepared, for present and future use. Whilst the maize is yet in the milk or soft state, and the grains have nearly attained to their full size, it is collected, and boiled on the cob ; but the poor who have no kettles, place the ear, sufficiently guarded by its husk in the hot embers, until properly cooked ; the maize is then dried, shelled from the cob, again exposed to the sun, and afterwards packed away for keeping, in neat leathern sacks. The grain prepared in this manner has a shrivelled appearance, and a sweet taste whence its name. It may be boiled at any season of the year, with nearly as much facility as the recent grain, and has much the same taste. They also pound it into a kind of small hominy, which when boiled into a thick mush, with a proper proportion of the smaller entrails, and jerked meat, is held in much esti- mation. When the maize, which remains on the stalk, is fully ripe, it is gathered, shelled, dried, and also packed away in lea- thern sacks. They sometimes prepare this hard corn for eating, by the process of leying it, or boiling it in a ley of wood ashes, for the space of an hour or two, which divests it of the hard exterior skin, after which it is well washed and rinsed. It may then be readily boiled to an eatable softness, and affords a palatable food. The hard ripe maize is also broken into small pieces be- tween two stones, one or two grains at a time, the larger stone being placed on a skin, that the flying fragments may not be lost. This coarse meal is boiled into a mush called Wa-ne-de. It is sometimes parched previously to being- pounded, and the mush prepared from this description of meal, is distinguished by the term Wajun-ga. With each of these two dishes, a portion of the small prepared intestines of the bison, called Ta-she-ba are boiled, to render the food more sapid. Their pumpkins, Wat-tong, are boiled or rather steamed. 214 Expedition to the ~ as the pot is filled with them cut in dices, with the addition of a very small quantity of water. But the greater number of these vegetables, are cut into long slips, and, as well as the smaller intestines, and stomach of the bison cut in pieces, are interwoven as before mentioned into a kind of net work. A singular description of food is made use of by some tribes of the Snake Indians, consisting chiefly and sometimes wholly of a species of ant, (Formica Lin.) which is very abundant in the region in which they roam. The squaws go in the cool of the morning to the hillocks of these active in- sects, knowing that then they are assembled together in the greatest numbers. Uncovering the little mounds to a certain depth, the squaws scoop them up in their hands, and put them into a bag prepared for the purpose. When a sufficient num- ber are obtained, they repair to the water, and cleanse the mass from all the dirt and small pieces of wood, collected with them. The ants are then placed upon a flat stone, and by the pressure of a rolling-pin, are crushed together into a dense mass, and rolled out like pastry. Of this substance a soup is prepared, which is relished by the Indians, but is not at all to the taste of white men. Whether or not this species of ant, is analogous to the Vachacos, which Humboldt speaks of, as furnishing food to the Indians of the Rio Negro and the Guainia, we have no opportunity of ascertaining. We could not learn, that any one of the nations of the Missouri Indians, are accused even by their enemies of eat- ing human flesh, from choice, or for the gratification of a horrible luxury; starvation alone can induce them to eat of it. An Ioway Indian, however, having killed an Osage, com- pelled some children of his own nation to eat of the uncook- ed flesh of the thigh of his victim. And a Sioux of the St. Peter's dried some of the flesh of a Chippeway whom he had killed, and presented it to some white men, who ate it with- out discovering the imposition. The Indians like the Hottentots, negroes and monkeys, eat Rocky Mountains. 215 the lice which they detect in each others heads. The squaws search for these parasites, and we have often seen them thus occupied with activity, earnestness and much success. One of them who was engaged in combing the head of a white man, was asked why she did not eat the vermin, she replied that " white men's lice are not good." Although the Bison cow produces a rich milk, yet the In- dians make no use of that of the individuals they kill in hunt- ing. During these active employments which the squaws cheer- fully and even emulously engage in, the occupations of the men are chiefly those of amusement or recreation. Numbers of the young warriors are very officious in offer- ing their services to the squaws, as protectors during their field labours, and from the opportunities they enjoy of mak- ing love to their charge in the privacy of high weeds, it is extremely common for them to form permanent attachments to the wives of their neighbours, and an elopement to another nation is the consequence. The men devote a portion of their time to card-playing. Various are the games which they practise, of which one is called Matrimony, but others are peculiar to themselves; the following is one, to which they seem to be particularly de- voted. The players seat themselves around a bison robe spread on the ground, and each individual deposits in the middle, the articles he intends to stake, such as Vermillion, beads, knives, blankets, &c. without any attention to the circumstance of equalizing its value, with the deposits made by his compa- nions. Four small sticks are then laid upon the robe and the cards are shuffled, cut, and two are given to each player, after which the trump is turned. The hands are then played, and whoever gains two tricks, takes one of the sticks. If two persons make each a trick, they play together until one loses 216 Expedition tu the his trick, when the other takes a stick. The cards are again dealt, and the process is continued, until all the sticks are taken. If four persons have each a stick, they continue to play to the exclusion of the unsuccessful gamesters. When a player wins two sticks, four cards are dealt to him, that he may take his choice of them. If a player wins three sticks, six cards are dealt to him, and should he take the fourth stick he wins the stake. They are so inveterately attached to the heinous vice of gambling, that they are known to squander in this way, every thing they possess, with the solitary exception of their habita- tion, which, however, is regarded more as the property of the woman, than of the man. A game to which the squaws are very much devoted is called by the Omahas Kon-se-ke-da or plumstone shooting. It bears some resemblance to that of dice. Five plumstones are provided, three of which are marked on one side only with a greater or smaller number of black dots or lines, and two of them are marked on both sides. They are, however, sometimes made of bone, of a rounded and flattened form, somewhat like an orbicular button mould, the dots in this case being impressed. A wide dish and a certain number of small sticks by the way of counters are also provided. Any number of persons may play at this game, and agreeably to the number engaged in it, is the quantity of sticks or coun- ters. The plumstones or bones are placed in the dish, and a throw is made by simply jolting the vessel against the ground to cause the dice to rebound, and they are counted as they lie when they fall. The party plays round for the first throw. Whoever gains all the sticks in the course of the game, wins the stake. The throws succeed each other with so much rapidity, that we vainly endeavoured to observe their laws of computation, which it was the sole business of an assistant to attend to. The squaws, sometimes, become so highly interested in Rocky Mountains. 217 this game, as to neglect their food and ordinary occupations, sitting for a whole day, and perhaps night also, solely intent upon it, until the losers have nothing more to stake. Having now a plentiful store of provisions, they content themselves in their village until the latter part of October, when, without the formality of a council, or other ceremony, they again depart from the village, and move in separate parties to various situations on both sides of the Missouri, and its tributaries, as far down as the Platte. Their primary object at this time, is to obtain, on credit from the traders, various articles, indispensably necessary to their fall, winter, and spring hunts; such as guns, particularly those of Mackinaxv, powder, ball, and flints, beaver traps, brass, tin, and camp-kettles, knives, hoes, squaw-axes and to- mahawks. Having obtained these implements, they go in pursuit of deer, or apply themselves to trapping for beaver and otter. Elk was some time since an object of pursuit, but these ani- mals are now rather rare, in the Omawhaw territories. This hunt continues until towards the close of December, and during the rigours of the season, they experience an al- ternation of abundance, and scarcity of food. The men are very much exposed to the cold, and, in trapping, to the water. They are also frequently obliged to carry heavy burdens of game from considerable distances. The assiduous hunter often returns to his temporary resi- dence in the evening, after unsuccessful exertions continued the live-long day; he is hungry, cold, and fatigued, with his mockasins, perhaps, frozen on his feet. His faithful squaw may be unable to relieve his hunger, but she seats herself by his side near the little fire, and after having disposed of his hunting apparatus, she rubs his mockasins and leggings, and pulls them off, that he may be comfortable; she then gives him water to drink, and his pipe to smoke. His children assem- ble about him, and he takes one of them upon his knee, and vol. i. 28 218 Expedition to the proceeds to relate to it the adventures of the day, that his squaw mav be informed of them. " I have been active all day, but the Master of Life has prevented me from killing any game, but never despond, my children and your mother, I mav be fortunate to-morrow." After some time, he retires to rest, but the wife remains to dry his clothing. He often sin.^s until midnight, and on the morrow, he again sallies forth before the dawn, and may soon return with a supera- bundance of food. Such is the life of the Indian hunter, and such the privations and pleasures, to which his being is ha- bitually incident. The squaws, in addition to their occupation of flaying the animals which their husbands entrap, and of preparing and preserving the skins, are often necessitated to dig the Pomme de terre, Noo; and to scratch the ground-pea, Himbaringa* (the same word is also applied to the bean,) from beneath the surface of the soil. This vegetable is produ- ced on the roots of the Apios tuberosa, they also frequently find it hoarded up, in the quantity of a peck or more in the brumal retreats of the field mouse, (Mus agrarius, VarP^) for its winter store. The seeds of the nelumbium luteum, analogous to the sacred bean of the Bramins, also contribute to their sustenance ; these are distinguished by the name Te- row-a, or bison-beaver, [Te bison, and row-a, beaver, in the Oto dialectj and when roasted are much esteemed. The root of this plant is also an article of food during the priva- tions of this portion of the year; it is either roasted or boil- ed ; and is prepared for keeping by boiling, after which it is cut up in small pieces and dried ; in taste it is somewhat si- milar to the sweet potatoe. With the skins of the animals, obtained during this hunt, the natives again repair to the traders, to compensate them for the articles which they had obtained on credit. But owing to the intrigues of rival traders, the Indians are, with, how- ever, numerous exceptions, not remarkable for any great Rocky Mountains. 219 degree of punctuality in making their returns to cancel their debts. Many obtain credit from one trader, and barter their peltries with another, to the great injury of the first. Like genuine traders, the Omavvhaws, endeavour, by various subterfuges, to make the best of their market. An artful fel- low will assure a trader that he has a number of skins, but that he does not wish to bring them forward, until he assembles a still greater number; but, in the meantime he must have a keg of whiskey, otherwise he will barter his skins with ano- ther trader. Another knave owes his trader, perhaps, twenty skins; but in consequence of the unlucky occurrence of many circumstances, which he proceeds to particularize, he can at present pay but half that number, and the other ten, which he brings with him, he wishes to trade for other articles of merchandize. The trader submits to the imposition thus practised, rather than lose their custom, and is thus deserv- edly punished, for his own deceptive proceedings with respect to his rivals, and for the habit of practising on the ignorance of the natives, in which many of them freely indulge. Thus the Missouri traders are repaid for hardly more than half the value of the merchandize which they credit, but should they obtain peltries for one third of the amount, they clear their cost and charges. After having discharged their debts wholly, or in part, the Indians exchange the remainder of their skins, for strouding for breech clouts and petticoats, blankets, wampum, guns, powder and ball, kettles, Vermillion, verdigris, mockasin awls, fire steels, looking glasses, knives, chiefs' coats, calico, orna- mented brass finger rings, arm bands of silver, wristbands of the same metal, ear-wheels and bobs, small cylinders for the hair, breast broaches, and other silver ornaments for the head; black and blue handkerchiefs, buttons, tin cups, pans and dishes, scarlet cloth, &c. The man is the active agent in this barter, but he avails himself of the advice of his squaw, and often submits to her dictation. 220 Expedition to the Each nation of Indians practises every art they can devise, to prevent white traders from trafficking with their neigh- bours, in order to engross as much as possible of the trade themselves, and to be the carriers at second hand to the others. For this purpese they sometimes intrigue deeply, and resort to artful expedients. " You do not treat your traders as we do," said a cunning Oto to some Pawnees, " we dictate to them the rate of exchanges, and if they persist in refusing to comply, we use force to compel them; we flog them, and by these means we obtain our articles at a much lower rate than you do" — thus endeavouring to induce those people to banish traders from their village by ill treatment. In trade the largest sized beaver skin is called by the French a plus, and constitutes the chief standard of value. Thus as many of any other description of skins, as are con- sidered of equal value with this large beaver skin, are col- lectively denominated si plus; and the number of deer, rac- coon, otter, &c. that shall respectively constitute a plus, is settled between the parties, previously to the commencement of the exchanges. Brass kettles are usually exchanged for beaver skins, pound for pound, which weight of the latter is worth about three dollars at St. Louis The beaver skins are embodied into neat packs by the traders, each weighing one hundred pounds, and consisting of seventy or eighty skins according to their magnitude. The business of this hunt having terminated with the year, the Omawhaws return to their village, in order to procure a supply of maize from their places of concealment, after which they continue their journey, in pursuit of bisons. On this occasion they divide into two parties, one of which ascends the Missouri, and the other the Elk -horn rivers. The party which discovers a herd, gives notice of the fact to the other party, by an especial messenger, and invites them to join in the pursuit of it. * Rocky Mountains. 221 This expedition continues until the month of April, when they return to their village as before stated, loaded with pro- visions. It is during this expedition that they procure all the skins, of which the bison robes of commerce are made; the ani- mals at this season having their perfect winter dress, the hair and wool of which are long and dense. The process of preparing the hides for the traders falls to the lot of the squaws. Whilst in the green state they are stretched and dried as soon as possible, and, on the return ot the nation to the village, they are gradually dressed during the intervals of other occupations. The hide is extended up- on the ground; and with an instrument resembling an adze, used in the manner of our carpenters, the adherent por- tions of dried flesh are removed, and the skin rendered much thinner and lighter than before. The surface is then plastered over with the brains or liver of the animal which have been carefully retained for the purpose, and the warm broth of meat is also poured over it. The whole is then dried, after which it is again subjected to the action of the brains and broth, then stretched in a frame, and while still wet, scraped with pumice-stone, sharp stones, or hoes, until perfectly dry. Should it not yet be sufficiently soft, it is subjected to friction, by pulling it backwards and forwards over a twisted sinew. This generally terminates the operation. On the com- mencement of the process, the hides are almost invariably each divided longitudinally into two parts, for the convenience of manipulation, and when finished they are again united by sewing with sinew. This seam is almost always present in the bison robe, but one of the largest that we have seen, is used as a covering for one of our humble beds at this can- tonment, and has been dressed entire, being entirely desti- tute of a seam. The brain of an animal, is sufficient to dress its skin, and some persons make two thirds of it suffice for that purpose. 222 Expedition to the The skins of the elk, deer, and antelopes are dressed in the same manner, but those that are intended to form the covering of their travelling lodges, for leggings, and summer mockasins, &c. have the adze applied to the hairy side in dressing, instead of the flesh side. Great numbers of these robes, are annually purchased by the traders, and Mr. Lisa assured us, that he once transport- ed fifteen thousand of them to St. Louis in one year. The Indian form of government is not sufficiently power- ful, to restrain the young warriors from the commission of many excesses and outrages, which continually involve the nations in protracted wars; and, however well disposed the chiefs ma}- be, and desirous to maintain the most amicable deportment towards the white people, they have not the power to enable them to compel those restless spirits, greedy of martial distinction, to an observance of that pacific de- meanour, which their precepts inculcate. To accomplish this object, much depends upon the course pursued by the agents of the United States. If the charac- ter of these is dignified, energetic and fearless, they will certainly meet that respect from the natives, which is due to the importance of their missions. But, on the contrary, if their conduct is deficient in promptness, energy and de- cision; if their measures are paralyzed by personal fear of the desperadoes, whom they must necessarily encounter in the execution of their duties, their counsels will fall un- heeded in the assemblies which they address.* * In corroboration of these remarks, we add the following account of an interview which Major OFallon had with Indians of the Mississippi,! whose agent has been hitherto unable to restrain them from carrying on warlike operations, against the Missouri Indians. In St Louis on the 3d April 1821, B. OFallon, agent for Indian affairs on Missouri, met a deputation from the Saukee nation of Indians, on the sub- ject of a most destructive war, carried on by them against the Otoes, Mis- souries, and Omawhaws of his agency, and spoke to them as follows: Saukees — I am glad you have arrived, before my departure for the (JouncU Bluff, as it affords me an opportunity to address you, on a subject that has f Of the Sauk nation, they call themselves Sauke-waw-ke. Rocky Mountains. 22 o The power of some of the former rulers of the Omawhaws is said to have been almost absolute. That of the celebrated Black-bird Wash-ing guh-sah-ba, seems to have been actually so, and was retained undiminished until his death, which agitated my mind for some time past. Yes, Saukees, for some time pasl I have wished to speak to you on a subject, that even now makes the blooti run warm in my veins. In addressing you upon this important subject, I shall not speak to please your ears, but to strike your hearts. Saukees, you must recollect to have seen me frequently, but you do not know me, and I know you well — I recollect when I first visited your land, your balls whistled round my ears. I was then a boy and wished to be a man — I am now a man, with a heart as strong' as my strength — A few winters since, I was a chief to the red skins of the upper Mississip- pi, (Sious and Foxes.) I am now chief to the red skins of Missouri, some of whose blood you have spilt. Listen that you may hear me, dispose your minds to understand me, and remember well what I am going now to tell you, and carry my words to your nation — that they may not deceive themselves. When I first climbed the rapid Missouri, I found the red skins as wild as wolves. Without ears they roved through the plains, only thirsting for each others' blood — They could only see the storm as it gathered aroumi them. They could only see the clouds when they obscured the sun, and heat it thunder when it rained. But when I sat down on their land, they as- sembled around me, they listened to my words, I settled the difference that existed between them, and gave peace to the land. They then sal down to rest, but they could not rest long for the Saukees of the Mississip- pi, you, whom the Big Knives, like fools have suffered to live, came and disturbed them in their sleep. When disturbed, not like women did they mourn their misfortunes, but like men they rose in arms and came to me; I did not consult my feelings, I consulted the feelings of my nation, and I was for peace — I told them to sit down, and they did so. Keep your ears open that you may hear me, and raise your eyes that you may see me. for I have saved your blood — Yes, Saukees I restrained their arms, and they sat down in tears — But you were not satisfied, you pre- sumed upon their forbearance, and came again, but they were not asleep, and you did not spill their blood, but you stole their horses; you stole horses from the whites, who like fools had still suffered you to live, and you mur- dered some traders, who were also white. They again raised their arms, every body who were there at the time, both whites and red skins, raised their arms, and looked around them, but they could not see you, for like the timid wolf you had sought the wood, where they could not follow you, until they had consulted me. I, whose blood began to boil in my veins. Saukees, my heart was for war, but my nation was too much for peace, and it was my business to promote peace; therefore, I gave them some tobac- co, and told them once more to sit down, and endeavour to restrain their feelings; they did so, and I left them smoking their pipes, and came away to see the great American Ch>ef. After I left them, you returned again to their land; you found them asleep, you stole their horses, murdered theii women and children, took their scalps, and carried some of them prison- ers to your villages. — 224 Expedition to the occurred in the year 1800, of the small pox, which then al- most desolated his nation. Agreeably to his orders, he was interred in a sitting posture, on his fovourite horse, upon the summit of a high bluff of the bank of the Missouri, " that he How long, how long, Saukees, will you continue to disturb the repose of other nations. How long will you, (like the serpent creeping through the grass,) continue to disturb the unsuspecting stranger passing through your country — Be cautious how you disturb the red skins of Missouri, or your women and children shall mourn the loss of husbands and fathers — Husbands aud fathers shall mourn the loss of wives and children. Yes, Saukees, the Otoes, Missouries. and Omawhaws, are unwilling to be disturbed any longer. They will no longer suffer you to make slaves of their children, and dance their scalps in your villages. Saukees, be cautious, you live in the woods, and the game of your coun- try is nearly exhausted. You will soon have to desert those woods, in which the red skins of Missouri can't find you, and follow the buffaloe in the plains, where the red skins are not less brave than you, and as numer- ous as the buffaloe. — As long as you have the wood to conceal your war- riors, you may continue to disturb the women and children of Missouri; but when hunger drives you from those woods, your bodies will be expos- ed to balls, to arrows, and to spears. You will only have time to discharge your guns, before on horseback, their spears will spill your blood. I know that your guns are better than those of Missouri, and you shoot them well — But when you reach the prairies, thej' will avail you nothing against the Otoes, Missouries, Omawhaws, and Pawnees — As you have seen the whirlwind break and scatter the trees of your woods, so will jour war- riors bend before them on horseback — (Here B. O'Fallon paused, to give the Saukees an oportunity to reply, when one of their most distinguished partizans, rose and spoke with energy and animation, recounting many of his feats in war. He mentioned how often he had struck upon the tribes of Missouri, and that the Otoes had killed his brother, whom he loved^ as a father, and whose spirit could not be appeased as long as an Oto walked erect upon the earth. He also spoke of the difficulty of restraining his young warriors, who were unwilling to die in obscurity.— To which B. O'Fallon spoke to the following effect. Saukees! One of your partizans, forgetting to whom he was speaking, has had the presumption to recount his feats in war, how often he had struck the red skins of Missouri, and to insinuate that he was unwilling to restrain his young men — I believe him to be a man of sense, but he has spoken without reflection, he has spoken like a fool. Saukees! It has always been, and still is my business to prevent, (if possible,) the effusion of human blood — to give peace and happiness to the land — but when 1 can't stop the running of blood, I will probe the wound, and make it run more fast. I wish you to understand that the Otoes and Missouries, though few in number, and much exposed, do not beg for peace, and I do not ask it for them. They have cot as yet revenged the death of some of their murder- ed countrymen, the spirits of these dead are not satisfied — No Saukees! These red skins whom you persecute, have opened their ears to my words, and are constantly looking towards me. They do not wish a dishonoura- ble peace. I would sooner see you drink their blood, than suffer them to Rocky Mountains. 225 might continue to see the white people ascending the river, to trade with his nation." A mound was raised over his re- mains, on which food was regularly placed for many years afterwards ; but this rite has been discontinued, and the staff, make a dishonourable peace — You have a few of their children as prison- ers among' you; if you consult the interest of your nation, you will send them to their mothers. If you do not deliver them up, the red skins of Missouri will go after them, and in hunting them, they may find some of yours. I tell you to be cautious, Saukees, how you disturb the red skins of Mis- souri. They call themselves my children, be cautious how you disturb my children, or I will no longer look to the pacific disposition of my na- tion, but consult my own feelings, and probe the wound which I cannot heal. J am not like many white chiefs whom you have been accustomed to see. I never act an humble part, I am one of those white men, who never fear a red sikn — when I move amongst them, it is not like a dog with his tail between his legs, but as becomes a man, and when I speak, I feel the strength of my nation. On the Missouri, I have guns, powder and balls, blankets, breech clouts, and leggings, and I am now getting more; I know where you have your village, and 1 know the face of the country over which you stretch your limbs I know how, and where you are scattered on hunting excursions — I know where you are most exposed, and what I do not know, I can easi- ly learn from the whites, and other red skins of the Mississippi. I have every thing that a red skin wants, and you all know he wants only the means of war. You know that all red skins are fond of war, and that I can make brother fight brother. Saukees! You are a strong nation of red skins, but if you dont endeav- our to restrain the ungovernable disposition of some of your young men, they will expose your hearts in the midst of your strength. Yes, Saukees, be cautions how you offend me, lest I assemble an army of red skins, and from some high peak on Missouri, show them where to find your village, and your exposed and scattered lodges. I know that the redskins of Missouri cannot destroy you directly, but they can give you unpleasant dreams — Be cautious, Saukees, how you deceive yourselves, or suffer others to deceive you, or the day will come when some of your chil- dren will have the misfortune to behold the dogs, fighting over the bones of their fathers upon this land, and as I may have many years to live, I dont intend to sit still, and if I continue to increase in strength as I have done, I may live to see the day, when I can make you smile, or shed tears of blood — Saukees, I have done, I am going to the Council Bluff. The Chief of the Saukees, after consulting each warrior separately, re- plied, (in substance) as follows: American Chief. 1 have been attentive, and I have heard your words, and those of the red head (Gov. Clark.) Yours entered one earand his the other, they shall not escape until my nation hears them — I feel the truth of all you have said, and have never been more for peace than now — All those braves have expressed their wish for peace, with the red skins of Mis- souri. This partizan, who without reflection spoke exultingly of his feats, since he has heard your words, is also for peace, not from any fear of those VOL. l. 29 226 Expedition to the that, on its summit, supported a white flag, has no longer ex- istence. This chief appears to have possessed extraordinary men- tal abilities, but he resorted to the most nefarious means, to establish firmly the supremacy of his power. He gained the reputation of the greatest of medicine men, and his me- dicine, which was no other than arsenic itself, that had been furnished him for the purpose, by the villainy of the traders, was secretly administered to his enemies or rivals. Those persons who offended him, or counteracted his views, were thus removed agreeably to his predictions, and all opposition silenced, apparently by the operation of his potent spells. Many were the victims to his unprincipled ambition, and the nation stood in awe of him, as of the supreme arbiter of their fate. With all his enormities he was favourable to the traders, and although he compelled them to yield to him one half of their goods, yet he commanded his people, to purchase the remainder at double prices, that the trader might still be a gainer. He delighted in the display of his power, and, on one oc- casion, during a national hunt, accompanied by a white man, they arrived on the bank of a fine flowing stream, and al- though all were parched with thirst, no one but the white man, was permitted to taste of the water. As the chief whom he has bled, but from an unwillingness to displease you, whom he conceives to be a man of truth. At our village on Rock river, and encampment at the De Mojen, we have five Oto prisoners, whom I will promise to deliver up, when you send for them. My brother, — 1 only regret that my nation was not present on this oc- casion, to have heard your words. The wisdom of my nation, all the re- flecting men are for peace, but we have many young men difficult to re- strain, whose ears, (I believe,) would open to words coming from your mouth, when mine, for the want of strength, may fail. My brother, — 1 wish you to pause — I wish you to forbear until I disclose your words to my people, and you hear from them. My brother, we receive you as the son of the red head, and in as much as we love him, we love you, and do not wish to offend you. Rocky Mountains. 22? thought proper to give no reason for this severe punishment, it seemed to be the result of caprice. One inferior but distinguished chief called Little Bozv, at length opposed his power. This man was a warrior of high renown, and so popular in the nation, that it was remarked of him, that he enjoyed the confidence and best wishes of the people, whilst his rival reigned in terror. Such an op- ponent could not be brooked, and the Black Bird endeavour- ed to destroy him. On one occasion the Little Bow returned to his lodge, af- ter the absence of a few days on an • excursion. His wife placed before him his accustomed food; but the wariness of the Indian character, led him to observe some peculiarity in her behaviour, which assured him that all was not right; he questioned her concerning the food she had set before him, and the appearance of her countenance, and her replies, so much increased his suspicions, that he compelled her to eat the contents of the bowl. She then confessed, that the Black Bird had induced her to mingle with the food a portion of his terrible medicine, in order to destroy him. She fell a victim to the machination of the Black Bird, who was thus disappointed of his object. With a band of nearly two hundred followers, the Little Bow finally seceded from the nation, and established a sepa- rate village on the Missouri, where they remained until the death of the tyrant. On one occasion, the Black Bird seems to have been touched by remorse, or perhaps by penitence, in his career of enormi- ty. One of his squaws having been guilty of some trifling offence, he drew his knife in a paroxysm of rage, and stabbed her to the heart. After viewing her dead body a few mo- ments, he seated himself near it, and covering his face with his robe, he remained immoveable for three days, without taking any nourishment. His people vainly petitioned that he would " have pity on them," and unveil his face ; he was 228 Expedition to the deaf to all their remonstrances, and the opinion prevailed that he intended to die through starvation. A little child was at length brought in by its parent, who gently raised the leg of the chief, and placed the neck of the child beneath his foot. The murderer then arose, harangued his people, and betook himself to his ordinary occupations. Towards the latter part of his life, he became very corpu- lent, the consequence of indolence and repletion. He was transported by carriers, on a bison robe, to the various feasts to which he was daily invited, and should the messenger find him asleep, they dared not to awaken him by a noise or by shaking, but by respectfully tickling his nose with a straw. The successor of Black Bird was the Big Rabbit, Mush- shinga- He possessed considerable authority, but he lived only a few years to enjoy it. Ta sone or the White Cow, the hereditary successor of Mush-shinga, being governed by an unambitious wife, re- mained inactive, whilst the next important man Ong-pa-ton- ga or the Big Elk, more distinguished for his vigorous in- tellect, than for any martial qualities, attained to the supreme dignity, which he still retains. The power of this amiable and intelligent chief, was very considerable during the early part of his administration, and although not so absolute as his predecessors, yet it is believ- ed, that he could then inflict the punishment of death upon an individual, with his own hands, with impunity. Five years ago he informed a stranger in the presence of his peo- ple, that he could compel any one of them to lie down be- fore him, that he might place his foot upon his neck; this assertion was assented to by his hearers. But the influence of the grand chief of the Omawhaws has very much diminished, in consequence of the improper distribution of medals by the whites; so that, although one of the most intelligent leaders, that the nation has probably Rocky Mountains. 229 ever had, yet he could hardly do more at this time, than inflict a blow for the most serious offence. Still, however, he maintains a supremacy over six or seven medalled rivals, in despite of the -intrigues of the traders. He does not now attempt to coerce any of his people, but substitutes ad- vice, and persuasion. By his influence and pacific councils, he has rendered the Omawhaws a peaceful people, who limit their warfare to the punishing of war parties, that depredate on them or their possessions, and he exultingly affirms, that his hands are unstained with the blood of white men. CHAPTER XI. « Further account of the Omawhaws — Of their marriages — of infancy, and the relationship of parents and children— Their old age. In the Omawhaw nation, numbers of the females are be- trothed in marriage from their infancy; and as polygamy is extremely common, the individual who weds the eldest daughter, espouses all the sisters successively, and receives them into his house when they arrive at a proper age. During her early youth, the daughter continues under the control of her parents, with whom she resides, and donations are occasionally made to her by the lover, which are receiv- ed by the parents, and appropriated to their own use, if the addresses of the individual are favourably received; but should an alliance with him, or with his family not be desirable, his presents are rejected, and the application is not renewed. Between the age of nine and twelve years, the young wife, is occasionally an invited visitant at the lodge of her hus- band, in order that she may become familiarized with his company and his bed. But her permanent residence is still at the house of her parents, where she continues until the age of thirteen or fourteen, when the parents give notice to their son-in-law, that their daughter is of sufficient age to partake of his bed. The husband then receives his bride without any formality, and leaving his other wives at home, departs with her upon a journey of a few days, during which time the marriage is consummated. On their return, the young wife again dwells in the lodge of her parents, occa- sionally visited by her husband, until a general hunt calls the nation from the village. Expedition, &rc. 231 During this hunt the husband again takes possession of his bride, whose parents constantly pitch their lodge near that of the son-in-law. The husband, previously to introducing his new wife to his lodge, endeavours to obtain the consent of his other wives ; for this purpose, he speaks kindly to them, states the neces- sity of providing them with a helpmate, to alleviate their burthens, and thus succeeds in his wishes. The new matrimonial alliance is at first productive of no discord in the family, but at length the decided partiality, displayed by the husband in favour of his recent acquisition, engenders much jealousy in the minds of his elder wives. Quarrels often succeed, which are sometimes terminated by the natural weapons of the wives, who, after the liberal use of their voluble tongues, apply for more strenuous aid to the agency of their teeth and nails, or to the somewhat more formidable array of tomahawks, clubs, and missiles. During combats of this nature, the husband remains per- fectly neutral, sitting with his robe drawn over his head. Should the wives succeed in expelling the recent intruder, who takes refuge in the house of her parents, the husband endeavours to sooth their anger, and to point out to them the impropriety of their conduct. A lecture of this description, to women elated with victo- ry, is not always received in the same conciliatory disposition, with that which dictated the advice, but sometimes results in another quarrel, which is terminated by the administra- tion of a few blows on the persons of his refractory squaws. These will then depart from his lodge, declaring their deter- mination to live with him no longer; a resolution which, however, fails with their anger, and they seek a reconcilia- tion. Their friends apply to the husband in their favour, and are informed that he was angry when he flogged them, and that he is now sorry for it. Thus matters are, with but little difficulty, adjusted ; the wives return home and are 232 Expedition to the harangued by the husband, after which they proceed har- moniously together in their domestic employments, until some new feud arises, to disturb the repose of the family. On the general hunting expeditions, in which the nation separates into distinct bands, the husband takes with him, his favourite wife, whilst the others accompany the bands in which are their parents. Sometimes during a temporary encampment, the husband leaves his favourite, for a few days, on pretence of business, in order to visit one of his wives in another band. On his return, he perceives the brow of his favourite to lower with evident displeasure ; if his dog ap- proaches her, she knocks him over with a club, and her child is repulsed with violence from her side ; she kicks the fire about, pulls about the bed, and exhibits other signs of anger. The husband affects not to notice her inquietude, but suffers her to proceed in her own way, until the violence of her an- ger appears to be in some measure dissipated; he will then perhaps, venture to request her to repair his mockasins for the morrow's hunt ; " Take them to your dear wife in the other band," will most probably be the reply to his solicita- tion. Such is sometimes the violence of the displeasure of his squaw, that he is obliged, through prudential motives, to take refuge in a neighbouring lodge, where he solaces himself with the pipe, until he supposes there is no longer danger of being provoked beyond endurance, so as to be tempted to chastise her ; a discipline which she seems rather to solicit than avoid, that she may have a sufficient excuse for wreak- ing her vengeance on her rival, and for giving free vent to her sentiments and opinions upon her husband, in language of the most superlatively indecent and opprobrious nature. When he retires to repose he invites her to his bed, but receives a positive refusal ; she rolls herself in her covering alone, but generallv, during the night, she becomes pacific, and a negociation ensues, which restores harmony between them. Rocky Mountains. 233 The far greater portion of their matrimonial quarrels arise from jealousy, though many affect to treat this passion with ridicule, or with indifference. " Were you ever jealous?" said Sans Oreille, an Oto chief, to Mr. Dougherty ; " I was once fool enough to be jealous, but the passion did not long torment me ; I recollected that women are often alone, their husband being necessarily often absent a hunting, and even when the husband is at home, the squaw is under the necessity of going to a distance for the purpose of bringing water, or collecting wood, when frequent opportunities occur, of being unobserved in the company of other men ; and I am not so silly as to believe that a woman would reject a timely offer. Even this squaw of mine, who sits by my side, would, I have no doubt, kindly accede to the opportune solicitations of a young, handsome, and brave suitor." His squaw laughed heartily, but did not affect to repel the imputation. Many husbands will take no cognizance, whatever, of the breach of conjugal fidelity on the part of the wife, and the offer of one of their wives for company during the night, though it might call upon our politeness for a return of thanks, was no cause of surprise to us, during our stay at their villages.* Ji husband of a different temperament of mind, on detecting his wife in an adulterous act, will rarely endeavour to maim her paramour, or otherwise seriously injure him by killing his horses or dogs ; but his attention will be chiefly or ex- clusively directed to his wife, whom he punishes by cutting off her hair, rarely her ears or nose ; sometimes he resorts to a different punishment, and scarifies her face and head with his knife, after which she is repudiated, and becomes a com- mon prostitute. * This national trait of extreme hospitality, with respect to the disposal of the wile, is common to many nations, in the various parts of the world; as amongst the African negroes, and the Laplanders; and, agreeably to the records of history, amongst the Romans, Spartans, and others. VOL. I. 30 234 Expedition to the An inexorable man, thus circumstanced, has been known to tie his frail partner firmly upon the earth, in the prairie, and in this situation, compelled her to submit to the embra- ces of twenty or thirty men successively ; she is then aban- doned.* Mr. Dougherty, being in Ong-pa-ton-ga's lodge, heard the loud voice of supplication, from an unhappy father, whose daughter had been recently taken in adultery by her husband. u O great Ong-pa-ton-ga", said he, " whose nose is like that of a mule, and who art greater than the Wahconda himself, condescend to intercede for my daughter, with her cruel hus- band ; do not permit her face to be disfigured, her nose to be cut off, or the disgrace of the punishment of the prairie, to be inflicted upon her." A brave, who detected his wife in the commission of adul- tery, offered her no indignity, but immediately transferred her to the object of her preference, and accompanied the gift with a horse, and sundry articles of merchandize. Even a very remote degree of consanguinity is an insu- perable barrier to the marriage union. This state, on the part of the man, seems to be the result of love for the wo- man ; on that of the squaw, of convenience, or acquiescence in the will of her parents. On some occasions, however, an In- dian marries through ambitious motives ; he is, for instance, aspiring to the acquisition of a particular dignity; he will then endeavour to quiet the opposition of some powerful in- dividual, by intermarrying in his family. Their connubial attachments are often very strong. An Omawhaw and his squaw, on a solitary hunting expedition, were discovered at a distance from their temporary lodge, by a Sioux war-party. They endeavoured to escape from * Very similar was the punishment of adultery at Rome, under the au- thority of the Emperors. The adultress was there subjected, by the pro- cess of the law, to public prostitution in the streets, with any of the specta- tors. Rocky Mountains. 235 the enemy, but the squaw was soon overtaken, struck to the ground, and subjected to the terrible operation of scalping. The husband, although at this time beyond the reach of the balls and arrows of the Sioux, seeing his squaw in their hands, immediately turned upon them, and drawing his knife, the only weapon he had, furiously rushed amongst them, in order to revenge the death of his squaw, even with the ine- vitable sacrifice of his own life; but he was almost immedi- ately dispatched, without having accomplished his heroic purpose. In the young squaw, the catamenia, and consequent capa- bility for child-bearing, we were informed, takes place about the twelfth or thirteenth year, and the capacity to bear chil- dren seems to cease, about the fortieth year ; but as supersti- tious notions prevent these Indians from taking any note of their ages, these periods are stated with some hesitation. When the married squaw, perceives that the catamenia does not recur at the expected period, she attaches a small leathern string to her girdle, and ties a knot in it, to note the incipient state of pregnancy, and another knot is added, at the termination of each successive moon, as a register of its progress. When the squaw perceives the approach of this depura- ting process, she retires from her family, and erects a little shelter of bark or grass, supported by sticks properly ar- ranged, where she makes a fire, and cooks her victuals alone. She is thus compelled by custom, to absent herself until the expiration of four days, when she returns to her lodge. During this time she must not approach, or touch a horse, as the Indians believe that such contamination would impoverish that animal. They sometimes retire, and build their little shelter under a false pretext, when the real ob- ject is to favour the approach of some esteemed lover, to whom the vigilance of the husband has denied any other means of obtaining a stolen interview. 236 Expedition to the The squaw has no need of propitiating the goddess Ma- nageneta, but during pregnancy, continues her usual avoca- tions, and even in its most advanced stage, she neither bears a lighter burden on her back, nor walks a shorter distance in a day, than she otherwise would ; neither does she expose herself the less on that account, to the inclemencies of the weather. If, on a march, a pregnant woman feels the pains of par- turition, she retires to the bushes, throws the burthen from her back, and without any aid, brings her infant into the world. After washing in water, if at hand, or in melted snow, both herself and the infant, she immediately replaces the burden upon her back, weighing, perhaps, between sixty and an hundred pounds, secures her child upon the top of it, protected from the cold, by an envelop of bison robe, and then hurries on to overtake her companions. It is only at the delivery of the first child, that any diffi- culty is ever anticipated, and on this occasion, ss there are no professed midwives, the young wife calls in some friend- ly matron, to assist in case of need. The aid, which these temporary midwives afford, seems to be limited to the prac- tice of tying a belt firmly about the waist of the patient, and shaking her generally in a vertical direction, with considera- ble violence. In order to facilitate the birth, a vegetable decoction is sometimes administered ; and the rattle of the rattle-snake is also given, with, it is said, considerable effect ; the singular appendages of this animal are bruised by pounding, or comminuted by friction between the hands, mixed with warm water, and about the quantity of two seg- ments constitutes a dose. The art of turning does not appear to be known, neither is blood letting practised in their obstetrics. We heard of no case of a retention of the placenta after parturition, nor of the affection of longing, or of nausea of the stomach, during pregnancy. Rocky Mountains. 237 On the delivery of her first child, the young mother, who appears to be but little enfeebled by the process, arises al- most immediately, and attends to the ordinary house work ; but she does not, in general, undergo any laborious occupa- tion, such as cutting and carrying wood, until the lapse of two or three days. The second child is brought forth with- out difficulty, and the parent, after bathing, ties it to a board, after their usual manner, then proceeds with her daily work, as if nothing extraordinary had occurred. Mammary abscess is very rare; a squaw of the Sioux na- tion died with this complaint. Sterility, although it does occur, is not frequent, and seems to be mostly attributable to the husband, as is evinced by subsequent marriages of the squaws. The usual number of children, may be stated at from four to six in a family, but in some families are ten or twelve. Of these the mother has often two at the breast simulta- neously, of which one may be three years of age. At this age, however, and sometimes rather earlier, the child is weaned by the aid of ridicule, in which the parents are as- sisted by visitors. The catalogue of the diseases, of both children and adults, probably bears a similar proportion to that of the white peo- ple, and is far less extensive and appalling. The summer complaint, so destructive to children in our region, appears to be uncommon with the Omawhaw infants, but, during their first year, they suffer more from constipation of the bowels, than from any other complaint, but which is occa- sionally remedied, by passing a small piece of soap (which is obtained from the traders,) cut into the proper shape, into the rectum. Dentition seems to be productive of no great distress ; the gums are never cut, but the teeth are permitted to force their way through ; the shedding of the teeth is also accom- plished, without much difficulty; the milk teeth, being forced 238 Expedition to the out by the permanent ones, either fall from the mouth, or are gently extracted by the fingers of the parent. Monstrous births sometimes occur, though rarely, and it is not known, that infants are ever destroyed by their pa- rents in consequence of deformity, unless the degree of mal- formation is excessive. The Indians mention two monsters which were born in their village ; one of these they repre- sent as resembling a white bear ; and the other a cray fish ; they were both destroyed. The husband of the squaw, who gave birth to the former, said that she must have had con- nection with a white bear, but she asserted that the produc- tion of the monster was occasioned by a fright, which she received at seeing her husband suddenly, whilst he was per- sonating that animal both in dress and gesture. The magi affect to converse with the foetus in utero, when the mother perceives it to be uneasy ; they also sometimes venture to predict its sex. Abortion is effected, agreeably to the assertions of the squaws, by blows with the clenched hand, applied upon the abdomen, or by repeated and violent pressure upon that part, or by rolling on the stump of a tree, or other hard body. The pregnant squaw is induced thus to procure abortion, in consequence of the jealousy of her husband, or in order to conceal her illicit amours, to which all the married squaws, with but few exceptions, are addicted. The infant, when recently born, is of a reddish-brown co- lour, but in a short time it becomes whitish, though never so pure a white, as that of the children of white people ; the change to the national complexion is then gradual, and in- dependent of exposure, inasmuch as those parts of their bo- dies, which are perpetually concealed from the light, change simultaneously with the face. The abdomen of the children protrudes very considerably ; and the sole article of dress, which the younger boys wear during the warm season, is a small belt of cloth around the Rocky Mountains. 239 middle of the abdomen, leaving every other part of the body perfectly naked. In wintry weather they have the addition of leggings, mockasins, and a small robe. The female children are furnished with a short piece of cloth, in imitation of a petticoat, but destitute of a seam, belt- ed round the loins, and depending as low as the knees. Their hair, when dressed, is parted longitudinally on the top of the head, and collected each side behind the ear, into a vertical, cylindric form, of the length of five or six inches, decorated with silver and brass rings, and ribands ; the line of separation of the hair is coloured with vermillion. This disposition of the hair into two rolls is generally observed in the girls, and is often continued one or two years after their residence with a husband. The girl is kept in a state of considerable subjection ; she habitually conforms to all the commands of the mother, and is obliged to assist her in her ordinary occupations; if she is refractory, she receives a blow upon the head or back from the hand of the mother, but hardly ever from the fa- ther. At the age of four or five years, she is taught the use of the hoppas, and is gradually familiarised to carry bur- dens. They are trained up to industry, and are taught to cut wood, to cultivate maize, to perform the scalp dance, and are early informed of the sexual relations of men and women, and warned against the arts, which will be aimed at the subjugation of their virtue. The experienced parent, however, in addition to these sa- lutary counsels, keeps a vigilant eye to the deportment of her unmarried daughter, and so sedulously guards her steps, that the arts of seduction, notwithstanding the free use of the licentiousness of language, appear to be more rarely tri- umphant over the Omawhaw maid, than over the civilized fair. Hence, a prostitute, who has never been married, is of ex- ceedingly rare occurrence. Yet, notwithstanding the vigilance 240 Expedition to the of the parent, the daughter sometimes elopes with a favour- ed lover, but not until she has ascertained that his intentions are perfectly honourable. The girl displays the most affectionate regard for her pa- rents, and grand parents. Whilst the deportment of the sister is thus trenched and guarded, the brother roams at large, almost uncontrolled. Should his conduct be at any time flagrantly outrageous, he will, perhaps, in the anger of his parents, receive a harsh reproof, but an ill judged affection soon prompts them to as- suage his grief, and dry his tears, by presents and soothing expressions. At a very early age, he is furnished with a bow and arrows, with the use of which he delights to employ himself, that he may be qualified for a hunter and warrior. From the age of about five years, to that of ten or twelve, custom obliges the boy to ascend to a hill top, or other ele- vated position, fasting, that he may cry aloud to the Wah- conda. At the proper season, his mother reminds him that 'the ice is breaking up in the river, the ducks and geese are migrating, and it is time for you to prepare to go in clay." He then rubs his person over with a whitish clay, and is sent off to the hill top at sunrise, previously instruct- ed by his mother what to say, and how to demean himself in the presence of the Master of Life. From this elevation he cries out to the great Wahconda, humming a melancholy tune, and calling on him- to have pity on him, and make him a great hunter, horse stealer, and warrior. This is repeated once or twice a week, during the months of March and April. It is only when his pride is concerned, that the boy is obe- dient to the injunctions of his parents; on other occasions he disregards them, or replies only with ridicule. A boy in an- ger discharged an arrow at his mother, which penetrated her thigh; when, instead of chastising him for the act, she applauded his spirit, declaring him to be a gallant fellow, the Rocky Mountains. 241 early promise of a great warrior. But though he does not scruple thus to insult his parents, he would unhesitatingly revenge an indignity offered them by another. He soon becomes ambitious of martial distinction, in con- sequence of frequently hearing the old warriors narrate their feats of arms, and eagerly anticipates the age which will jus- tify his enrolling himself in the ranks of a war party. At the age of twelve or thirteen, having received every instruction respecting their mode of warfare, his wishes are gratified, and he is accepted as a volunteer in the path of honour. As an instance of high chivalric ideas, sometimes instilled into the mind of the Indian, which in some cases almost su- percede the feelings of nature, and which are eminently cal- culated to excite a degree of enthusiasm in the youthful war- rior, the following anecdote may be narrated. The Osage nation a few years since, marched to attack the Konza village. They encamped unobserved, at a mode- rate distance from the village, and dispatched two of their war- riors, with pipes to the Konzas, to invite all their chiefs to a pretended peace conference, and to inform them that presents of horses and merchandize would be made to them, to com- pensate for two individuals of their nation whom the Osa- ges had killed. The Konzas, suspecting the treachery intended, at first proposed to put the messengers to death, but on further con- sideration, supposing them sincere, the chiefs determined to accompany them. On the following morning, how- ever, when they were about to set out for the Osage camp, a chief arose and harangued them, stating that he had had a dream in the night, from the interpretation of which, he was confident that the Wahconda was averse to their proposed visit. This information deterred all from going, with the ex vol. i. 31 242 Expedition to the ception of two, who mounted their horses, and followed the messenger, saying, that whatever might be the event, the Osages should not be led to believe, that every individual of the nation was afraid to rely upon their faith. They were, however, soon undeceived. The enemy, who had placed themselves in ambuscade on each side of the path at a suitable position, fired on the Konzas, one of whom was killed, and the other escaped to his people. The Osages, who had hoped by this russe de guerre to slaughter all the chiefs without any loss to themselves, find- ing their scheme abortive, rushed on to attack the village. They were met by about one half their number of Kon- zas, who, after an obstinate encounter, repulsed them with considerable loss. After the action, some one informed Son-ja-nin-ga that his son was among the slain. " Did he die with his face to the enemy," said the father. " He did so," replied the other. " Then he perished nobly," rejoined Son-ja-nin-ga, exulting- ly, and " I will not lament his fall." This resolution, however, was so much at variance with his sensibility, that it could not long be maintained. He mounted on the top of his lodge and harangued his people on the subject of the martial deeds of his son, who had already become a distinguished warrior; but when he spoke of his final scene, he was so absolutely overpowered by grief, that he precipitated himself from his elevated situation to the earth; receiving however, but little injury, he immediately assumed the state of mourning with its utmost rigours. At the age of fourteen or fifteen, it is not uncommon for the young Omawhaw to elope with a married woman, and fly for protection to the Puncaws. The home of the young man, until he marries, is his father's house ; but after he thus changes his condition, he repairs to the house of his father-in-law until the birth of Rocky Mountains. 243 the first child, when he returns with his little family to his father's dwelling, where he continues to reside. On national hunts he provides a separate skin lodge for his family. When more advanced in age, and of some little conse- quence or influence amongst the people, he unites with two or three families in the building of a permanent dirt lodge in the village, similar to those already described of the Kon- zas. The labour of erecting this edifice, devolves almost ex- clusively upon the squaws. The interior is readily furnish- ed ; the indispensable requisites being only a kettle, a wood- en bowl, and a couple of horn spoons, a few skins for a bed and covering, a pillow made of leather stuffed with hair, and a bison's stomach, instead of a bucket, for carrying water. On the death of the husband, the squaws exhibit the sin- cerity of their grief, by giving away to their neighbours, every thing they possess, excepting only, a bare sufficiency of clothing to cover their persons with decency. They go out from the village and build for themselves a small shelter of grass or bark ; they mortify themselves by cutting off their hair, scarifying their skin, and in their insulated hut they lament incessantly. If the deceased has left a brother, he takes the widow to his lodge after a proper interval, and considers her as his wife, without any preparatory formality.* If the deceased has not left a brother, the relations of his squaw take her to their lodges. This lamentation and mor- tification, which the squaws impose upon themselves, contin- ue for a period of six or eight months, or even a year. Many circumstances tend to show, that the squaw is sus- * This custom is the same with that of the ancient Jews under the law of Moses, for which we have the authority of St. Luke. ' Moses wrote unto us, if any man's brother die, having- a wife, and he die, without children, that his brother should take his wife, and raise up seed unto his brother.' And Elphinstooe, in his account of Caubul, informs us, that among- the Af- ghauns, as among- the Jews, it is thoug-ht incumbent on the brother of the deceased to marry his widow. 244 Expedition to the ceptible of the most tender and permanent attachment to an individual of the opposite sex, and that on the cessation of all hope of a union with the beloved object, the consequen- ces have sometimes been fatal. Several instances came to our knowledge of a young female committing the act of sui- cide, after marriage with a person, in obedience to the will of her parents, whilst her affections were devoted to another. The maternal fondness appears also to be not less exqui- site than we perceive it to be wkh-civilized mothers. The following anecdote may be cited in support of this observa- tion. In the year 1814, a trader married a beautiful squaw of one of the most distinguished families in the Omawhaw na- tion. This match, on the part of the husband, was induced by the following circumstances. Being an active, intelligent, and enterprising man, he had introduced the American trade to the Missouri Indians, and had gained great influ- ence amongst them by his bravery and ingenuous deport- ment. But he at length perceived that his influence was gradually declining, in consequence of the presence and wiles of many rival traders, to whom his enterprise had opened the way, and that his customers were gradually for- saking him. Thus circumstanced, in order to regain the ground he had lost, he determined to seek a matrimonial alliance with one of the most powerful families of the Omawhaws. In pursu- ance of this resolution, he selected a squaw, whose family and friends were such as he desired. He addressed himself to her parents, agreeably to the Indian custom, and inform- ed them that he loved their daughter, that he was sorry to see her in the state of poverty cemmon to her nation, and although he possessed a wife among the white peo- ple, yet he wished to have one also of the Omawhaw na- tion. If they would transfer their daughter to him in mar- Rocky Mountains. 245 riage, he would obligate himself to treat her kindly; and as he had commenced a permanent trading establishment in their country, he would dwell during a portion of the year with her, and the remainder with the white people, as the nature of his occupation required- His establishment should be her home, and that of her people during his life, as he never in- tended to abandon the trade. In return, he expressed his expectation, that for this act, the nation would give him the refusal of their peltries, in order that he might be enabled to comply with his engagement to them. He further pro- mised, that if the match proved fruitful, the children should be made known to the white people, and would probably be qualified to continue the trade after his death. The parents replied with thanks for his liberal offers, and for his disposition to have pity on them, they would not ob- ject to the connection, and hoped that their daughter would accept of him as a husband. The parents then retired, and opened the subject to the daughter; they assured her that her proposed husband was a great man , greater than any of the Omawhaws; that he would do much for her and for them, and concluded by requesting her to acquiesce in the wishes of the white man. She re- plied that all they said, was without doubt, true, and that agreeably to his request, she was willing to become his wife. The agreement being thus concluded, the trader made presents agreeably to the custom of the nation, and conduct- ed his interesting prize to his house. The succeeding Spring, the trader departed for the set- tlements, leaving her of course at his trading house. The ensuing autumn she had the pleasure to see him re- turn, having now conceived for him the most tender attach- ment. Upon his visit the following season, she presented him with a fine daughter, born during his absence, and whom she had nursed with the fondest attention. With the infant -246 Expedition to the in her arms, she had daily seated herself on the bank of the river, and followed the downward course of the stream, with her eye, to gain the earliest notice of his approach. Thus time passed on. The second year the father greeted a son, and obtained his squaw's reluctant consent to take their daughter with him on his return voyage to the coun- try of the white people. But no sooner had he commenced his voyage, and although she had another charge upon which to lavish her caresses, than her maternal fondness overpow- ered her, and she ran crying and screaming along the river side in pursuit of the boat, tearing out her long flowing hair, and appearing to be almost bereft of reason. On her return home she gave away every thing she possessed, cut off her hair, went into deep mourning, and remained inconsolable. She would often say that she well knew, that her daughter would be better treated, than she cou'd be at home, but she could not avoid regarding her own situation to be the same as if the Wahconda had taken away her offspring forever. One day, in company with six other squaws, she was en- gaged in her agricultural labours, her infant boy being se- cured to his cradle-like board, which she had carefully re- clined against a tree at a short distance. They were discov- ered by a war party of Sioux, who rushed towards them with the expectation of gratifying their vengeance by secur- ing all their scalps. An exclamation from her companions directed her attention to the common enemy, and in her fright she fled precipitately, but suddenly recollecting her child, she swiftly returned full in the face of the Sioux, snatched her child from the tree, and turned to save its life, more precious than her own. She was closely pursued by one of the enemy, when she arrived at a fence which sepa- rated her from the field of the trading house. A moment's hesitation here would have been fatal, and exerting all her strength she threw the child, with its board, as far as she could on the opposite side. Rocky Mountains. 247 Four of the squaws were tomahawked, and the others es- caped, of which number the mother was one, having suc- ceeded in bearing off her child uninjured. The trader, on his arrival at the settlements, learned that his white or civilized wife had died during his absence, and after a short interval devoted to the usual formalities of mourning, he united his destinies with another, and highly amiable lady. The second season his wife accompanied him on his annual voyage up the Missouri, to his trading house, the abode of his squaw. Previously to his arrival, however, he dispatched a mes- senger to his dependents, at the trading house, directing them to prevent his squaw from appearing in the presence of his wife. She was accordingly sent off to the village ol her nation, a distance of sixty or seventy miles. But she could not long remain there, and soon returned with her lit- tle bov on her back, and accompanied by some of her friends, she encamped near her husband's residence. She sent her son to the trader, who treated him affectionately. On the succeeding day the trader sent for his squaw, and after mak- ing her some presents he directed her to accompany her friends who were then on their way to their hunting grounds. She departed without a murmur, as it is not unusual with the Omawhaws to send off one of their wives, on some oc- casions, while they remain with the favourite one. About two months afterwards the trader recalled her. Overjoyed with what she supposed to be her good fortune, she lost no time in presenting herself before the husband whom she tenderly loved. But great was her disappoint- ment, when her husband demanded the surrender of the child, and renounced for the future any association with her- self, directing her to return to her people, and to provide for her future well being, in any way she might choose. Overpowered by her feelings on this demand and repu- diation, she ran from the house, and finding a periogue on 248 Expedition to the the river shore, she paddled over to the opposite side and made her escape into the forest, with her child. The night was cold and attended with a fall of snow and hail. Reflect- ing upon her disconsolate condition, she resolved to return again in the morning, and with the feelings of a wife and a mother to plead her cause before the arbiter of her fate, and endeavour to mitigate the cruel sentence. Agreeably to this determination she once more approach- ed him, upon whom she believed she had claims paramount to those of any other individual. " Here is our child," said she, " I do not question your fondness for him, but he is still more dear to me. You say that you will keep him for yourself, and drive me far from you. But no, I will remain with him ; I can find some hole or corner into which I may creep, in order to be near him and sometimes to see him. If you will not give me food, I will, nevertheless, remain until I starve before your eyes." The trader then offered her a considerable present, desir- ing her at the same time to go, and leave the child. But she said, " is my child a dog, that I should sell him for mer- chandize? You cannot drive me away ; you may beat me, it is true, and otherwise abuse me, but I will still remain. When you married me, you promised to use me kindly, as long as I should be faithful to you ; that I have been so, no one can deny. Ours was not a marriage contracted for a season, it was to terminate only with our lives. I was then a young girl, and might have been united to an Omaw- haw chief, but I am now an old woman; having had two children, and what Omawhaw will regard me? Is not my right paramount to that of your other wife ; she had heard of me before you possessed her. It is true her skin is whiter than mine, but her heart cannot be more pure towards you, nor her fidelity more rigid. Do not take the child from my breast, I cannot bear to hear it cry, and not be present to Rocky Mountains, 249 relieve it ;* permit me to retain it until the Spring, when it will be able to eat, and then, if it must be so, take it from my sight, that I may part with it but once." Seeing her thus inflexible the trader informed her, that she might remain there if she pleased, but that the child should be immediately sent down to the settlements. The affectionate mother had thus far sustained herself dur- ing the interview with the firmness of conscious virtue, and successfully resisted the impulse of her feelings, but nature now yielded, the tears coursed rapidly over her cheeks, and clasping her hands, and bowing her head, she burst into an agony of grief, exclaiming, " why did the Wahconda hate me so much, as to induce me to put my child again into your power." The feelings of the unhappy mother were, however, soon relieved. Mr Dougherty communicated the circumstances of the case to Major OFallon, who immediately, and pe- remptorily, ordered the restoration of the child to its mother, and informed the trader that any future attempt to wrest it from her, should be at his peril. As in civilized communities, so amongst the Indians, quarrels sometimes occur. There being no legal tribunal to appeal to, amongst the Missouri Indians, individuals often terminate their animosity by resorting to arms and relying upon their own valour or address. This extremity is, howev- er, sometimes obviated, by the soothing interference of rela- tives and friends, or by the violent interposition of a warrior. Pugilism they despise, regarding it entirely beneath the dignity, even of an ordinary man, saying that it is only fit for the decision of the quarrels of children and squaws, and that when a man is called upon to decide a question by force, he ought to resort to the aid of mortal weapons. Hard-heart, chief of the Ioways, quarrelled with a trader, * A mode of expression common to the Indians, who are in the habit of communicating their ideas by allusions to the senses. VOL. I. 32 250 Expedition to the near the mcuth of the Platte, and challenged him immedi- ately to single combat, with any weapons he might choose, either agreeably to the manner of the whites, or to the usual Indian mode, of either combatant availing himself of oppor- tunity or stratagem. The trader refusing to fight, Hard-heart departed, declaring he would come again in the morning, in order to put him to death as a coward, u and," said he, " the Wahconda' himself will not be able to save you." The trader for security, assembled around his hut several Oto warriors as a guard, so that when the chief returned agreeably to his promise, to execute his threat, he could not gain admittance. After waiting a long time in vain, he at length sent word to the trader that he forgave him and would not injure him. The trader on receiving this information., having sufficient confidence in his good faith, dismissed his guards > and some time afterward, we observed them riding together, on their return from the Pawnee villages, to which they had accom. panied the Oto nation. About a twelvemonth before our arrival at Engineer can- tonment, Hashea (the Cut-nose) and the Brave, two highly distinguished warriors of the Oto nation, had a very serious quarrel, which their friends could not perfectly adjust, but only succeeded in preventing a personal combat. Since our departure for the Rocky Mountains, Major O'Fallon in- forms us, that this hostility, still further aggravated by another incident, has terminated fatally. The nephew of the Brave grossly insulted, by his pertinacious addresses, the wife of Hashea, whilst the latter warrior was absent on a war ex- cursion. On his return, heing informed of the indignity of- fered to his wife, he sought the offender, knocked him down with his war club, and beat him with great severity. The Brave was summoned by his friends, who seeing the bruised condition of his relative, vowed revenge. He provided a large <>harp pointed knife, and throwing his bison robe over his arm, by way of shield, he sallied out and passed twice Rocky Mountains. 251 through the village, uttering occasionally, with a loud voice, a challenge to Hashea to come forth, and decide their old quarrel by means of the knife. Hashea feared no man, and would have presented himself before his old enemy at the first call, but was prevented by some friends who were with him in his lodge ; these, however, after the lapse of a short time, he contrived to elude, and swiftly sought the Brave. He threw down his blanket, and exclaimed " you and I can- not live in the same nation, the time has arrived when one of us must die." They then closed in fight. The Brave had much the advantage, he was a large man, and his person was effectually protected by his robe, which received the thrusts of his adversary's knife, whilst at every blow the weapon of the Brave was sheathed in the naked body of the interesting Hashea. The latter was soon dispatched, but as he stagger- ed backwards under the grasp of death, he aimed a final blow at his antagonist, and had the gratification to see his blade enter his neck and pass far downward ; at which he uttered a shout of exultation and died. The Brave's wound was mortal, but he lived long enough to see the features of Ietan, the friend of Hashea, bent in sternness upun him, and to hear him lament th.it the conqueror of his friend, should die without the agency of his arm. The deceased warriors be- longed to the two most powerful bands of the nation. Has- hea was a near kinsman of the Crenier, leader of one band, and the Brave was a brother of Shongotonga, leader of the other, and principal chief of the Otos, The consequence of the quarrel involved the whole nation, and to avoid far- ther hostilities the bands separated from each other, into distinct villages, in which situation they now remain. The designations by which the Omawhaws distinguish their various degrees of consanguinity are somewhat differ- ent in meaning from ours. Children universally address their father's brother by the title of father, and their mo- ther's brother by that of untie; their mother's sister is called 252 Expedition to the ^ mother, and their father's sister aunt. The same relative designations extend to the step-parents, relatives, and to those of the grand parents. The children of brothers and sisters address each other by the titles of brother and sister. Step- parents treat their step-children with as much kindness and attention as their own ; and a stranger in the family would not perceive any partiality shown to the latter ; indeed the natural parent exacts such a course of conduct from the other, and a separation would probably ensue, from an op- posite course being obstinately persevered in, as a parent, will, on no account, suffer his or her offspring to be abused. Natural children are generally retained by the mother ; but if she is willing to part with them, or at her death, they are received into the family of the father, where they expe- rience the same kindness and attention as his other children ; but an Indian will consider himself insulted, if he is told that he had no proper father or mother. Some mothers of natural children will not permit them to visit the father, while she can control them ; they generally remain with the mother, and support her. A man applies the title of VVe-hun-guh, or sister-in-law, to his wife's sister, until he takes her as his wife ; he also calls his wife's brother's daughter Wehunguh, and may in like manner take her to wife ; thus the aunt and the niece marry the same man. A man distinguishes his wife's brother by the title of Ta- hong or brother-in-law, and his son also by the same desig- nation. He calls the wife of his brother-in-law Cong-ha, or mother-in-law. A woman calls her husband's brother Wish-e-a, or brother- in-law, and speaks of his children as her own. Her husband's sister she distinguishes by the title of relationship, Wish-e- cong, or sister-in law. Men who marry sisters address each other by the title of brother. All women who marry the Rocky Mountains. 253 same individual, even though not previously related, apply to each other the title of sister- Remote degrees of consanguineous alliance, are distin- guished by their various appellatives, and are universally ac- knowledged. It is a great singularity in the manners of the Omavvhaws, that neither the father-in-law nor mother-in-law will hold any direct conversation with their son-in law ; nor will he on any occasion or under any consideration converse immediate- ly with them, although no ill will exists between them ; they will not, on any account, mention each other's name in com- pany, nor look in each other's faces ; any conversation that passes between them is conducted through the medium of some other person. The Big Elk, Ongpatonga, otherwise named Ar-re-cat- ta-wa-ho, which means Big Elk in the Pawnee language, married the daughter of Me-chah-pa, or the Horse-head. One day, on a visit to his wife, he entered the lodge of her father, unobserved by him, who was busily engaged in play with his dog, rubbing him with his hand, and frequently re- peating his name which unfortunately happened to be the same with that of the Big Elk in Pawnee. Mechahpa's wife hearing her husband repeat this name in the presence of the son-in-law ; after making many winks and signs without ef- fect, arose from her seat and struck him violently with her fist upon the back, exclaiming, " you old fool! have you no eyes to see who is present ? you had better jump up on his neck, f meaning that of the Big Elk) and ride him about like a dog." ' Wah!' ejaculated Mechahpa, -in surprise, at the sudden and emphatical salutation, and understanding the meaning of the address, he ran out of the lodge in confusion. This extraordinary formality is carried to a great length, and is very rigidly observed. If a person enters a dwelling in which his son-in-law is seated, the latter turns his back, covers his head with his robe, and avails himself of the first 254 Expedition to the opportunity to leave the presence. If a person visit his wife, during her residence at. the lodge of her father, the lat- ter averts himself and conceals his head with his robe, and his hospitality is extended circuitously by means of his daughter, by whom the pipe is transfered to her husband to smoke. Communications or queries intended for the son-in- law are addressed aloud to the daughter, who receives the replies of her husband. The same formality is observed by the mother-in-law ; if she wishes to present him with food, it is invariably handed to the daughter for him, or if she happens to be absent for the moment, it is placed on the ground, and she retires from the lodge, that he may take it up and eat it. A ten years' separation will not change this custom. The Pawnees have no such formality, and on that account, are said to be great fools. A Frenchman married and resident with the Omawhaws, one day, inadvertently mentioned the name of his father-in- law, in presence of several people, who immediately decla- red him to be as great a fool as a Pawnee, thus to have so little respect for his father-in-law, as to treat him with as little ceremony as he would a dog. The more distinguished and respectable the parties are, the more rigidly is this rule observed ; and if either of the par- ties should be treated otherwise, the departure from the ob- servance would be regarded as a mark of disrepect for a tri- fling fellow. Fraternal affection is very strong and permanent. The chief and almost exclusive sources of infraction ol this na- tural bias, are adultery with each others' wives, and conflict- ing intrigues for the attainment of the honour of a chief- tain. Two Omawhaw brothers had stolen a squaw from an in- dividual of their nation, and were on their journey to seek a refuge in the Puncaw village. But they had the misfortune, in a large prairie, to meet with a war party of Sioux, their Rocky Mountains. 255 implacable enemies. They immediately conceab d themselves in a deep ravine, which, at bottom, was covered with dry reed grass. The Sioux surrounded this spot, and set fire to the windward side of the reeds, in order to drive them out. When the conflagration had nearly reached the fugitives, one of the brothers remarked, that the Wahconda had cer- tainly not created him to be smoked out like a raccoon ; (the Indians smoke this animal out of hollow trees by kindling a fire at the root) ; he urged his brother to attempt his escape in one direction, whilst he would attract the attention of the enemy, by sallying out upon them alone, and endeavoured to destroy as many of them as possible, in anticipated revenge for that death which he considered as inevitable ; " one or both of us," said he, "must certainly be sacrificed, save yourself if you can ; I will be the victim, and may fortunately receive a death blow in the conflict, and thus escape the dis- grace of captivity." He then rushed forth amongst the Sioux, shot one, and with his knife wounded several before he was dispatched. His brother availing himself of the ab- stracted attention of the enemy, effected his escape, but the squaw was burned to death. In this magnanimous self devo- tion, the gallant brother exhibits an instance of chivalric he- roism which would have immortalized a Roman warrior. 1 he young men are generally coupled out as friends ; this tie is very strongly knit in youth, but is usually enfeebled by matrimony or the concerns of more advanced age ; yet it is sometimes as lasting as the life of the individuals. The Omawhaws, as we before observed, preserve no account of their ages, they think that some evil will attend the num- bering of their years. Me-chah-pa the Horse-head, who is an intelligent medicine man, asked one of our party, whom he was informed was an eminent medicine man of the white peo- ple, amongst many other questions, how old he was ; he was answered, about forty -five, at which he expressed his regret 256 Expedition to the that he had lived so long in the world, and to so little pur- pose. Old age amongst the Omawhaws is generally loquacious, but it does not seem to be distinguished as in civilized life, by an accumulation of maladies. Aged Indians, whether male or female, generally continue in apparent good health to the last, and the visitation of death is most frequently sudden and unexpected; an instance of this has already been related which occurred to old Loutre an individual of the Missouri nation. They become bowed and very much wrinkled with age, and their joints become less flexible. But their hair does not so generally change to gray as that of men in a state of civi- lization. The hair of the sides of the head, which is so fre- quently shorn or extracted, often assumes the gray appear- ance, at a comparatively early age, and is almost universally of that tint in aged persons, whilst that of the top and back of the head, which is always permitted to attain a moderate length, is simply interspersed with a few gray hairs. Many aged squaws preserve the hair of the usual youthful colour ; in others we observe an intermixture of gray, and it may be remarked that the aged of this sex are more frequently gray- haired than the men. • We saw a middle aged woman whose hair had pretty ge- nerally changed to gray ; but this appearance, at her age was so unusual, that the Indians attributed it to her having in- fracted the injunctions of her medicine, by eating forbidden food,* * Humboldt observes of the natives of New Spain, that " their head ne- ver becomes gray. It is infinitely more rare to find an Indian than a negro with gray hairs, and the want of a beard gives the former a continual air of youth. The skin of Indians is also less subject to wrinkles." In this latter character, at least, it will be perceived, that our observations on the Mis- souri Indians, do not coincide with those of the Baron, respecting the na- tives he describes. Ulloa informs us that the symptoms of old age are a beard and gray hairs. But the natives of the region oftheMissouri have cer- tainly no greater density of beard, when advanced in age, than during their Rocky Mountains* 257 In proportion as persons of either sex approach to the state of superannuation, the respect of their family and ac- quaintances is withdrawn from them, and they are finally re- garded as useless burdens upon the community. They are subjected to the pranks and ridicule of the young people, which, however, they seem rather to invite by drollery, jokes, and stories, than to discourage by a repulsive demeanour. The aged men contrive to render themselves useful, by as- sisting the squaws in their culinary operations, and by ha- ranguing ; a service for which their loquacity eminently quali- fies them. The aged squaws can generally assist in light employ- ments, such as making and mending mockasins, leggings, stringing beads, &c. ; but during the rigours of winter they are generally seated near the door of the travelling lodge, partially defended from the cold by an old ragged robe, and occupied with the menial service, of pushing up the half-burn- ed pieces of wood to the fire, and driving out the dogs ; in this situation, they are more exposed to the weather than any other inmate of the tenement. Though thus neglected, the aged are not permitted to suf- fer from hunger, when in the village, if food can be obtain- ed. But when they become helpless on a march, and the transporting of them is attended with much difficulty, it is considered unavoidable to abandon them to their fate ; with this view a small grass shelter is erected for them, in which some food is deposited, together with wood and water. When thus abandoned by all that is dear to them, their for- titude does not forsake them, and the inflexible passive cour- age of the Indian, sustains them against despondency. They regard themselves as entirely useless, and as the custom of the nation has long led them to anticipate this mode of death, earlier years, though it is equally certain, that owing to a neglect of per- sonal neatness, their beard is suffered to grow ; yet agreeably to our op- portunities of judging, its ordinary character of sparse distribution, is never changed. VOL. 1. 33 258 Expedition, &c. they attempt not to remonstrate against the measure, which is, in fact, frequently the consequence of their earnest soli- citation. In this situation, the devoted man sings his war songs to the Wahconda, narrating the martial exploits of his youth, and finally chaunts his death song. If, on the return of the nation from the hunt, he is still living, his family or friends take him with them to the vil- lage, and guard him from want, until the succeeding gener- al expedition. CHAPTER XII. Diseases — Medical and Surgical knowledge — Drunkenness , and other vices— 'Ideas o? God, and of a future state-— Su- perstition, and practice of the Magi — Expiatory tortures, The Omawhaws endure sickness and pain with great for- titude ; most of them, when thus afflicted, rarely uttering a murmur. Their catalogue of diseases, and morbid affections, is infinitely less extensive than that of civilized men. Rheumatism is rare, and gout appears to be unknown. No case of phthisis or of jaundice fell under our observa- tion. King's-evil is not uncommon, and although they have no reliance on the sanative touch of a king or chief, yet, as their practice seems confined to an inefficacious ablution with common water, many fall victims to the disease. Many are also afflicted with ulcers, which sometimes terminate fatally. Decayed teeth are rare. Plica polonica is unknown. Bald- ness seems to be also unknown, the hair being always retain- ed, however advanced the age of the individual. Nymphomania occurred in the person of a widow, who was thus afflicted about two months ; her symptoms were attended with an effusion of blood from the nose. On her recovery, she attributed the disorder to the operation of some potent mystic medicine. Hypochondriasis seems to be unknown. Canine madness also appears to be without an example, their dogs not hav- ing yet been visited by the disease. They are rarely afflict- ed with dysentery, though childreu are sometimes subject 260 Expedition to the to it in consequence of eating unripe fruits, such as plums, grapes and maize. They are never known to be subject to the coup de soleil, although they travel for days and even weeks over the unsheltered prairies, without any covering whatever for the head, which is consequently exposed to the full radiance of the sun, both in a state of activity and qui- escence. White men residing with them, and who have par- taken in their hunts, and consequent insolation, have been visited with this distressing affection, although their heads were protected, invariably, by hats or handkerchiefs. The cuticle of these Indians is not known to have been acted upon by contact with poisonous plants, though white men, travelling with them, have experienced the effects of the usual deleterious properties of the poison vine frhus radicans), which is, to a certainty, abundant in proper situa- tions in the Missouri country. What effects would result from the application of this plant, to the only part of the body of the Indian, which is never exposed to the direct in- fluence of external causes, is a subject deserving of experi- mental inquiry. The hare-lip sometimes occurs, but it may be properly considered as still more rare, than amongst white people. Frosted limbs are treated by immersion in cold water, so as gradually to restore the lost temperature of the part. The magi also perform over them their mystic rites, amongst which the only topical application, is made by chewing some roots and blowing the fragments, and accompanying saliva, violently upon the part, with many antic capers. Goiture and wens are not known. Fevers, and fever and ague are exceedingly rare. Ophthalmic diseases, and casu- alties affecting the eye, are frequent. The eyes of children are sometimes injured or destroyed, by missiles, in incau- tious play or juvenile rencontres. But blindness is more frequently the effect of the gradual operation of disease. The eyes become sore and the lids inflamed j white opake ma- Rocky Mountains. 261 culse, after some time appear in the eye, which enlarge, un- till they cover it entirely, and prevent the ingress of light. It is probable that they possessed no rational remedy for this evil, previously to their acquaintance with the traders, excepting the extracting of blood from the temple, by their process of cupping ; the traders, however, have taught them to remove the opacity, by blowing burnt alum into the eye through a quill, a remedy so familiar in the veterinary art. To this disease children as well as adults are obnoxious. Another ophthalmia, which also results in the destruction ,of the faculty of vision, commences with a superabundant secretion of the fluid of the lachrymal duct, succeeded by inflammation of the lids ; the sight becomes gradually debilita- ted, until at length the pupil assumes an opake white appear- ance ; probably fistula lachrymalis. Temporary blindness, which sometimes eventuates in per- manent loss of sight, occurs during the winter, to incautious travellers who pass over the prairies covered with snow, from which the solar light is so brilliantly reflected. A par- ty, that accompanied Mr. Dougherty on a journey, being thus exposed, became unable to distinguish objects, and had not his sight been preserved, they might never have regained their stockade. The blind are not neglected by their family and friends ; on the contrary, we had several opportunities of observing them to be well clothed and fed, and much at their ease. When superannuated, however, they are not exempted from the fate attendant on that state. An affection, or pain in the breast, distinguished by the name of Mong-ga-ne-a, seems to be the consequence of ex- cessive indulgence in tobacco, and the habitual inhaling of the smoke of it, into the lungs. In their attempts to alleviate this complaint, the magi affect to extract from the part, by suction, balls and pellets of hair, and other extraneous sub- stances, which they had previously concealed in their mouths, for the purpose of deceiving the patient. 262 Expedition to the An individual applied to one of our party to cure him of this pain, but being advised to desist from the indulgence of tobacco smoking, he appeared rather willing to bear with his disease. They sometimes say that their liver pains them, a disor- der which they call Ta-pe-ne-a. They are not exempt from catarrhs, the consequence of great exposure to sudden vicissitudes of temperature ; a disease similar to the influenza is sometimes prevalent, and known by the name of Hoh-pa. A deaf and dumb boy occurred in the Oto nation ; an adult with a curved spine ; and another with an inflexible knee, the leg forming a right angle with the thigh. But we have not observed any one of them with either eye deviat- ing from the true line of vision. The medical and surgical knowledge of the Omawhaws is very inconsiderable, and what there is, is so much blended with ceremonies, which to us appear superstitious, inert, and absurd, that it would seem, that, with the exception of a few instances, they have no reasonable mode of practice. Sweating baths are in much estimation, and are used for the cure of many ailments. These are temporary construc- tions, generally placed near the edge of a water course ; they are formed of osiers, or small pliant branches of trees, stuck into the soil in a circular arrangement, bent over at top so as to form a hemispherical figure, and covered in every part with bison robes. They are of different sizes, some are cal- culated to contain but a single individual, whilst others af- ford space for five or six at once. The invalid enters with a kettle of water and some heated stones, on which the water is sprinkled, until the steam produced is sufficient for his purpose. When they conceive that his perspiration has been as profuse as necessary, he is taken out, and plunged into the water, and even if the stream be covered with ice, this is broken to admit the patient. He is not subjected a second Rocky Mountains. 263 time to the action of the steam, but covers himself with his robe and returns home. We did not learn, that they possessed any knowledge of cathartic or emetic medicines. But as a substitute for the latter, a feather is thrust down the throat, until its irritating effect produces vomiting. For the cure of cholic, warm topical applications are made, and the abdomen is kneaded with the fist. They have no substitute whatever for opium, and we do not know that they have any for mercury. For the alleviation of an internal local pain, a severe reme- dy is sometimes resorted to. A portion of the medullary sub- stance of a plant, is attached to the skin over the part affect- ed, by means of a little spittle ; it is then touched with fire, and burns slowly down to the skin, upon which a vesication is soon produced, and accomplishes the object intended, of removing, at least for a time, the internal pain to the surface. This seems to be the only species of actual cautery made use of. The Indians, who reside in the upper regions of the Mis- souri, practise bleeding for various ailments. This operation is sometimes performed with a knife or arrow point. At other times, and not unusually, a sharp stone is placed upon the part from which blood is to be drawn, and it is then struck with a stick, much in the same manner that veteri- narians operate with the phlegm. They thus bleed in the arm, thigh, leg, &c. They never dissect the human body, expressly for the pur- pose of acquiring a knowledge of its structure ; but they have a general idea of the position of the vitals and viscera, acquired upon the field of battle, by their custom of hacking the carcases of the slain ; a knowledge which teaches them on what part of the body of an enemy to strike, in order that the wound may be mortal. Gun-shot wounds are administered to by the magi, who 264 Expedition to the powwow over them, rattle their gourds and sing, whilst they chew roots, and blow out the fragments and saliva on the part. But the efficient practice in cases of wounds of this na- ture, is their system of depuration by means of suction ; they apply their lips to the wound and draw out the pus as it is secreted ; by this mode of treatment they seem to be very successful in the cure of gun-shot wounds. Amputation of limbs is not practised in their surgery. The wound produced by the arrow, is treated much in the same manner with that of the gun-shot, after the weapon is thrust through the part, in the direction in which it entered ; or, if this cannot be accomplished, the arrow is withdrawn, and the head or point being very slightly attached to the shaft, remains in the body, unless the wound is superficial, in which case it is cut out with a knife. A broken limb is extended to its place, and enveloped with a leathern strap ; the union generally takes place promptly, but the member usually remains more or less bent or crooked. They have no rational mode of treating the scalp wound. A squaw who had been scalped, covered the part, after its edges had healed, with a peruke made of bison hair, until the hair on the other parts of her head became of sufficient length to conceal the deformity. Dislocated members are reduced by extension, but with so little art, that they are frequently unsuccessful, and the limb remains permanently disjointed. The Omawhaws are entirely destitute of all condiments, with the exception of salt, which, however, in their eating they rarely use. Confirmed insanity appears to be unknown. Every person, in any degree conversant with Indian man- ners and customs, is struck with their proneness to that most abominable and degrading of all vices, intoxication from the use of spirituous liquors. The Missouri Indians, collectively, form no exception to this general trait. A member of the Rocky Mountains. 265 Pawnee war party, which we so unfortunately encountered near the Konza village, was more solicitous to obtain a draft of this pernicious beverage, than to possess any other article within his view. We, however, persisted in refusing it to him, although he fell upon his knees and laid his hands convulsively upon his breast and stomach, crying out, with a voice and manner of earnest supplication, " whiskey, whis- key." The vice of drunkenness is yet, however, extremely rare in the Pawnee, as well as the Konza nation. But the Omawhaws are much addicted to it, and, with the exception of the chiefs, the indulgence does not, in any very conside- rable measure, degrade them in the estimation of their coun- trymen, who regard it as a delightful frolick ; unless indeed the indulgence is permitted to grow into a habit. To this cause, more especially than to any other, is perhaps attributable the depreciation of the influence of Ongpatonga, notwithstanding the efforts of his comparatively superior in- tellectual abilities. The greatest offences and insults are overlooked if com- mitted in this state, and even murder is palliated by it. The actions of drunken Indians, are as ridiculous and puerile as those of civilized drunkards ; chiefs, warriors, and com- mon men, roll indiscriminately on the earth together, or dance, caper, laugh, cry, shout, fight, or hug and kiss, and rub each other with their hands, in the most affectionate or stupid manner. If in the vicinity of white people, they ap- point some of their number to remain sober, in order to prevent injury or insult being offered to them. The squaws sometimes tie them with cords, in order to preserve the peace, and are thanked for their precaution, when the subjects return to the dignity of reason. Squaws, however, will themselves get drunk on certain occasions, and children are frequently intoxicated with liquor given them by the parents. Whiskey, which is the only spirituous liquor they are ac- vol. i. 34 266 Expedition to the quainted with, is furnished to them freely by the traders ; and the existing law of the United States, prohibiting the sale of it to the natives, is readily evaded, by presenting it to them with a view of securing their custom, not in direct, al- though implied exchange for their peltries. Nor is this greatest of evils, in the power of the agent to remedy ; and until traders are effectually interdicted, by law, from taking any whiskey into the country, even for their own consump- tion, it must, in defiance of his authority, continue to exist. Whiskey is distinguished by the appellation of Pa-je-ne or fire-water, the letter^/' having the French sound in pro- nunciation. The state of intoxication is called Ta-ne, a word which has a singular affinity with that by which they distin- guish meat broth, or meat water, so great indeed is the similarity of sound between them, that to our ear they ap- pear identical. Intoxicating drinks do not appear to be ever made use of by the Omawhaws, for superstitious purposes. Incontinency in married women is often encouraged by their husbands, with the view of receiving presents or of ob- taining other trifling advantages. With such motives, stipula- tions are made for the accommodation of strangers, at the ex- pense of the chastity of the wife. In relation to this particu- lar the statements of Lewis and Clark,* Bradbury ,f Breck- enridge,:}: and other travellers, have been confirmed by our own observations. Vindictive jealousy is no uncommon trait in the Indian character. When a wife has been found guilty of an intrigue to which her husband has not been accessary, she seldom escapes ex- emplary punishment at his hands, such as the cutting off her nose or ears, or other mutilations of the countenance. * Vol. i. p. 421. f Bradbury's Travels, p. 162. \ Breckenridge's Journal of a tour up the Missouri, p. 275. Rocky Mountains. 267 Among their vices may be enumerated sodomy, onanism, and various other unclean and disgusting practices. What is related of the Illinois by Hennepin,* may, with equal truth, be applied to the Omawhaws. But to the honour of huma- nity, it may be remarked that those abominable traits of character are not generally conspicuous among them. This people believe firmly in an existence after death; but they do not appear to have any definite notions, as to the state in which they shall then be. And although they say that many reappear after death, to their relatives, yet such visitants communicate no information respecting futurity. They consist of those only who have been killed, either in battle with the enemy, or in quarrels with individuals of their own nation, and their errand is to solicit vengeance on the perpetrators of the deed. Futurity has no terrors to the dying Omawhaw, as he has no idea of actual punishment, beyond his present state of existence. He, however, regrets the parting from his fami- ly and friends, and sometimes expresses his fears that the former will be impoverished, when his exertions for their support, shall be withdrawn. The Wahconda is believed to be the greatest and best of beings, the creator and preserver of all things, and the foun- tain of mystic medicine. Omniscience, omnipresence, and vast power are attributed to him, and he is supposed to af- flict them with sickness, poverty, or misfortune, for their evil deeds. In conversation he is frequently appealed to as an evidence of the truth of their asseverations, in the words Wahconda-wa-nah-kong, the Wahconda hears what I say, and they sometimes add Mun-ekuh-wa-nah-kong, the earth hears what I say. Whatever may be the notions of other Indian nations, we did not learn that the Omawhaws, have any distinct ideas of the existence of the devil; or at least, we always experienced * See Hennepin's Travels, p. 133, Lond. 1698. 268 Expedition to the much difficulty and delay, when obtaining vocabularies of this and some other languages, in ascertaining corresponding words for Uevil and Hell ; the Indians would consult toge- ther, and, in one instance, the interpreter told us they were coining a word. They say that after death, those who have conducted themselves properly in this life, are received into the Wa- noch-a te, or town of brave and generous spirits ; but those who have not been useful to the nation, or their own fami- lies, by killing their enemies, stealing horses, or by genero- sity, will have a residence prepared for them in the town of poor and useless spirits ; where, as well as in the good town, their usual avocations are continued. Their Wahconda seems to be a Protean God ; he is sup- posed to appear to different persons, under different forms. All those who are favoured with his presence become medi- cine men or magicians, in consequence of thus having seen and conversed with the Wahconda, and of having received from him some particular medicine of wondrous efficacy. He appeared to one in the shape of a grizzly bear, to ano- ther in that of a bison, to a third in that of a beaver, or owl, &c, and an individual attributed to an animal, from which he received his medicine, the form and features of the ele- phant. All the magi, in the administration of their medicine to the sick or afflicted, mimic the action and voice, variously exaggerated, and modified, of the animal, which, they say, is their respective medicine, or in other words, that in which the Wahconda appeared to them. When a magician is called to attend a sick person, he makes preparations for the visit, by washing, and painting with red clay; some of them dress fantastically, but others retain their ordinary apparel, which does not distinguish them from their neighbours; they take with them a dried gourd, or skin, in Rocky Mountains. 269 which are some pebbles or plumstones, to make a rattling noise; the medicine bag is also an indispensable requisite, not for the active properties of its contents, but for the mys- tic virtues ascribed to them. When in presence of his patient, he assumes the pro- per gravity of deportment, and commences his operations by smoking his pipe, and talking to his Wahconda; after this preparatory ceremony, the medicine bag is opened, and the contents displayed, consisting of white and red earth, herbs entire or pulverized, &c. Portions of these are mixed with warm water, in small wooden cups, with which he is provi- ded. Then, with a due degree of solemnity, he advances to his patient, and inquires into the nature of his ailment; he feels the part affected, with his hand, and in case of local pain, he scarifies the part with a flint, and proceeds to suck out the blood, having previously taken a small quantity of water in his mouth. He applies his lips to the wound, and sucks with great force, drawing a considerable quantity of blood, which he occasionally ejects into a bowl, in which some dirt or ashes had been previously sprinkled. He makes much noise in the operation, by inhaling, and expelling the air forcibly through his nostrils, and at the same time jerks his head from side to side, tugging at the part to facilitate the process. The depletion produced by this method, is sometimes so considerable that the patient becomes relaxed and pallid. Ulcers are often cured in the same manner, and those rude practitioners do not hesitate to apply their mouths to venereal ulcers, extracting from them the pus and blood with impunity. It has been remarked, that those practitioners have very tumid lips, and this remark is verified in those of Mon-cha- wahconda, or medicine grizzly bear, whom we have frequent- ly seen. If the patient has no local pain, the magician administers sone of his simples, sometimes internally, but generally by 2 TO Expedition to the friction between his warmed hands, and the breast or abdo- men of the patient. At intervals during this operation, and after the termination of it, he rattles his gourd with vio- lence, singing to it with great vehemence, and throwing him- self into grotesque attitudes. All this is sometimes daily repeated, until the convalescence or death of the patient. A wealthy man, when sick, will sometimes send to a great distance for a celebrated practitioner, who, if not already en- gaged, removes with his family and lodge to the vicinity of the afflicted. The compensation for all this attendance, and powwowing, is proportioned to the violence and duration of the com- plaint, and to the wealth of the individual; it is frequently exorbitant, and consistsof horses, kettles, blankets, &c, which, although they are never demanded, yet the magician does not fail to allude to some of them as objects of his wishes, and the gratitude of the patient seldom fails on this occa- sion. If the patient dies, notwithstanding all this necroman- cy, he is said to be summoned by the Wahconda, and the fee or present to the magician, is made by the relatives or friends of the deceased. These men sometimes pretend to the spirit of prophecy. One of them ventured to predict, that two squaws, who had recently married white men, would die in the course of a very short time, which he specified. The squaws being much alarmed at the prospect of approaching death, took with them some tobacco and other presents, and went in search of the prophet, in order to prevail upon him to inter- cede for them, with the Wahconda, and avert their doom. The husband of one of the squaws, a citizen of the United States, hearing of the occurrence, went to the lodge of the magician. He was surprised to see there the squaws per- fectly naked before the magician, who had provided himself with a large kettle of warm water, and was himself engaged in squirting the water from his mouth, over their persons. Rocky Mountains. 271 The husband, incensed at what appeared to him to be non- sense and imposition, kicked over the kettle of holy water, and drove the squaws home to their lodges; but the magician having received the presents, which were the objects of his swindling cunning, pretended that his incantations had had the desired effect with the Wahconda, inducing him to spare their lives. Many are the impostures which these priests practise on the credulity of the people. And although they are fre- quently defeated in their attempts to deceive, and justly punished for their hypocritical villainy, yet the advantage of experience seems to profit them little, and deception, prac- tised under a new garb, often attains its ends. How can we wonder at this facility, with which a simple people are blind- ed, through the medium of their superstitious faith, when we know that infinitely more monstrous absurdities obtain the inconsiderate assent, or excite the fears of thousands of civilized men, in the most populous and enlightened cities of Europe, and America, and that the horse-shoe, even at this day, is frequently seen, attached to the threshold of a door, as a security against the entrance of a witch? One of these magi acquired a high repute in several of the Missouri nations, by impressing them with the belief, that his body was indestructible to human power, and that if cut into a thousand fragments, and scattered to the winds, these portions would all promptly assemble together again, and become revivified, so that he would receive no injury from the operation. Trusting to his fame, on some slight provocation, he killed a squaw in the midst of her own peo- ple, and with the most unbounded confidence, surrendered himself to her exasperated relatives, declaring with exulta- tion that they possessed not the power to harm him. Unexpectedly, however, they put his vaunted supernatural constitution to the test, by dividing his body into pieces, and scattering them about the vicinity of the village. 272 Expedition to the They are so entirely habituated to practising the'arts of deception, that it would seem, they sometimes persuade them- selves that what was at first only feigned, is in truth reality, and that their magic absolutely possesses its attributed heal- ing virtue. One of these men being on a visit to the Pawnee villages, was present at a kind of grand incantation, during which many extraordinary feats were exhibited. He there saw for the first time the mountebank trick, of appearing to cut off the tongue, and afterwards replacing the severed por- tions without a wound. " There," said Katterfelto, " your medicine is not strong enough, to enable you to perform this operation." The stranger, jealous of his national honour, and unwilling to be exceeded, unhesitatingly drew forth his knife, and actually cut off nearly the whole of his tongue, and bled to death before their eyes. In the country of the Crow Indians, (Up-sa-ro-ka,) Mr. Dougherty saw a singular arrangement of the magi. The upper portion of a cotton-wood tree was implanted with its base in the earth, and around it was a sweat house, the upper part of the top of the tree arising through the roof, A grav bison skin, extended with ozierson the inside so as to exhibit a na- tural appearance, was suspended above the house, and on the branches were attached several pairs of children's mockasins and leggings, and from one of the limbs of the tree, a very large fan made of war eagle's feathers was dependent. The Missouri Indians believe earthquakes to be the effect of supernatural agency, connected, like the thunder, with the immediate operations of the Master of Life. The earthquakes which, in the year 1811, almost destroyed the town of New- Madrid of the Mississippi, were verv sensibly felt on the upper portion of the Missouri country, and occasioned much superstitious dread amongst the Indians. During that period, a citizen of the United States resided in the village of the Otoes, trading for the produce of their hunts. One day he was surprised by a visit of a number of Otoes in anger. They said Rocky Mountains. 273 that a Frenchman, who was also trading in the village, had informed them, that the Big-knives had killed a son of the Master of Life; that they had seen him riding on a white horse in a forest country, and being of a sanguinary disposi- tion, they had waylaid and shot him. And it was certainly owing to this act that the earth was now trembling before the anger of the great Wahconda. They believed the story im- plicitly, and it was with no little difficulty, that the trader divested his own nation of the singular crimination.* As connected with the superstitions of the Missouri In- dians, we may mention some anecdotes that came to our knowledge. First, of the Me-ma-ho-pa or medicine stone of the Gros ventres or Minnetarees. This is a large, naked, and insulated rock, situate in the midst of a small prairie, at the distance of about two days' journey, southwest of the village of that nation. In shape it resembles the steep roof of a house. The Minnetarees resort to it, for the purpose of propitiating their Man-ho-pa or Great Spirit, by presents, by fasting, and lamentation, during the space of from three to five days. An individual, who intends to perform this ceremony, takes some presents with him, such as a gun, horse, or strouding, and also provides a smooth skin, upon which hieroglyphics may be drawn, and repairs to the rock accompanied by his friends and magi. On his arrival, he deposits the presents there, and after smoking to the rock, he washes a portion of the face of it clean, and retires with his fellow devotees to a specified distance. During the principal part of his stay, he cries aloud to his God, to have pity on him, to grant him success in war and in hunting, to favour his endeavours to take prisoners, horses and scalps from the enemy. When the * Many individuals attach small bags, of the size of the end of the thumb, to various parts of their dress, as talismanic preventives of person- al injury. The custom of sacrificing- their clothes to the medicine is un- known to the Omawhaws, but it is practised with the Upsaroka and some other nations. VOL. I. 35 274 Expedition to the appointed time for lamentation and prayer has elapsed, he returns to the rock; his presents are no longer there, and he believes them to have been accepted, and carried off, by the Manhopa himself. Upon the part of the rock, which he had washed, he finds certain hieroglyphics traced with white clay, of which he can generally interpret the meaning, particular- ly when assisted by some of the magi, who were no doubt privy to the whole transaction. These representations are supposed to relate to his future fortune, or to that of his fa- mily or nation; he copies them off, with pious care and scru- pulous exactness, upon the skin which he brought for the pur- pose, and returns to his home, to read from them to the peo- ple, the destiny of himself or of them. If a bear be represent- ed, with its head directed towards the village, the approach of a war party, or the visitation of some evil, is apprehended. If, on the contrary, the tail of the bear be towards the village, nothing hut good is anticipated, and they rejoice. They say that an Indian, on his return from the rock, exhibited to his friends, on his hieroglyphical chart, the representation of a strange building, as erected near the village; they were all much surprised and did not perfectly comprehend its mean- ing; but four months afterward, the prediction was, as it happened, verified, and a stockade trading house was erected there, bv the French trader Jessaume. Lewis and Clark inform us that the Mandans have a si- milar oracle. At the distance of the journey of one day and a half from Knife creek, which divides the larger and smaller towns of the Minnetarees from each other, are situate two conical hills, separated by about the distance of a mile. One of these hills, was supposed to impart a prolific virtue, to such squaws as resorted to it for the purpose of crying and lamenting, for the circumstance of their having no male issue. A person one day walking near the other mount, fancied he observed upon the top of it, two very small children. Rocky Mountains. 275 Thinking they had strayed from the village, he ran towards them to induce them to return home; but they immediately fled from him, nor could his utmost speed overtake them, and in a short time they eluded his sight. Returning to the village, the relation of his story excited much interest, and an Indian set out next day, mounted on a fleet horse, to take the little strangers. On the approach of this individual to the mount, he also saw the children, who ran away as before, and although he endeavoured to overtake them by lashing the horse into his utmost swiftness, the children left him far behind. But these children are no longer to be seen, and the hill once of singular efficacy in rendering the human species prolific, has lost this remarkable property. A change, which the magi attribute to the moral degeneracy of the pre- sent generation of the Gros ventres. Thus, like many of the asserted supernatural occurrences in the civilized world, these are referred back, in their obscure traditions, " out of harm's way." Lewis and Clark, however, inform us, (p. 53,) that the Sioux have a belief somewhat similar, respecting a hill near Whitestone river, which they fable to be at present occupied by a small and dangerous race of people, about eighteen in- ches high, and with remarkably large heads; who, having killed three Omawhaws a few years since, have inspired all the neighbouring Indians with a superstitious dread. Al- though these intrepid travellers visited the haunted hill, they were happy enough, to escape the vengeance of its Lillipu- tian inhabitants. With this absurd, but somewhat poetical fable, may be classed the asserted discovery of Lilliputian skeletons of men, on the banks of the Merameg river, and the osteological acumen of the discoverers of those relics, may derive all the support which their theory is susceptible of receiving, from the story of these visionary beings. 2T6 Expedition to the Annually, in the month of July, the Minnetarees celebrate their great medicine dance, or dance of penitence, "which may well be compared with the Currack-pooja of the expiatory tortures of the Hindoos, so often celebrated at Calcutta. On this occasion a considerable quantity of food is prepared, which is well cooked, and served up in their best manner. The devotees then dance and sing to their music at inter- vals, for three or four days together in full view of the vic- tuals, without attempting to taste of them. But they do not, even at this time, forego their accustomed hospitality. And if a stranger enters, he is invited to eat, though no one par- takes with him. On the third or fourth day, the severer ex- piatory tortures commence, to which the preceding ceremo- nies were but preludes. An individual presents himself be- fore one of the officiating magi, crying and lamenting, and requests him to cut a fillet of skin from his arm, which he extends for that purpose. The devout operator thrusts a sharp instrument through the skin near the wrist, then introduces the knife, and cuts out a piece of the required length, some- times extending the excision entirely to the shoulder. Ano- ther will request bands of skin to be cut from his arm. A third will have his breast flayed, so as to represent a full moon or crescent. A fourth submits to the removal of concentric arcs of skin, from his breast. A fifth prays the operator, to remove small pieces of skin, from various indicated parts of his body; for this purpose an iron bodkin is thrust through the skin, and the piece is cut off, by passing the knife under the instrument. Various are the forms of suffering which they inflict upon themselves. An individual requests the operator, to pierce a hole through the skin of each of his shoulders, and after pas- sing a long cord through each of these holes, he repairs to a golgotha at some distance from the village, and selects one of the bison skulls collected there. To the chosen cranium he affixes the ends of his cords, and drags it in this painful Rocky Mountains. 277 manner to the lodge, around which, he must go with his bur- den, before he can be released from it. No one is permitted to assist him, neither dares he to put his own hands to the cords, to alleviate his sufferings. If it should so happen that the horns of the cranium get hooked under a root or other obstacle, he must extricate it in the best manner he can, by pulling different ways, but he must not touch the rope or the head, with his hands, or in any respect attempt to relieve the painful strain upon his wounds, until his complete task is per- formed. Some of the penitents have arrows, thrust through various muscular parts of their bodies, as through the skin and su- perficial muscles of the arm, leg, breast and back. A devotee caused two stout arrows to be passed through the muscles of his breast, one on each side near the mam- mae. To these arrows, cords were attached, the opposite ends of which, were affixed to the upper part of a post, which had been firmly implanted in the earth for the purpose. He then threw himself backward, into an oblique position, his back within about two feet of the soil, so as to depend with the greater portion of his weight by the cords. In this situa- tion of excruciating agony, he continued to chaunt and to keep time to the music of the gong, until from long absti- nence and suffering he fainted. The bystanders then cried out " Courage, courage," with much shouting and noise; af- ter a short interval of insensibility he revived, and proceed- ed with his self-inflicted tortures as before, until nature be- ing completely exhausted, he again relapsed into insensibili- ty, upon which he was loosed from the cords, and carried off amidst the acclamations of the whole assembly. Another Minnetaree, in compliance with a vow he had made, caused a hole to be perforated through the muscles of each shoulder; through these holes cords were passed, which were, at the opposite ends, attached by way of a bridle to a horse, that had been penned up three or four days without 278 Expedition to the food or water. In this manner, he led the horse to the mar- gin of the river. The horse, of course, endeavoured to drink, but it was the province of the Indian to prevent him, and that only by straining at the cords with the muscles of the shoulder, without resorting to the assistance of his hands. And notwithstanding all the exertions of the horse to drink, his master succeeded in preventing him, and returned with him to his lodge, having accomplished his painful task. The Wolf chief, one of the most eminent of the warriors of the upper village of the Minnetarees, on one occasion, sat five days, singing and lamenting, without food, on a small insulated and naked rock in the Missouri river. And it is firmly believed that he did not even palliate his urgent wants by tasting the water, during this long probation. Many of the Minnetarees believe that the bones of those bisons, which they have slain and divested of flesh, rise again clothed with renewed flesh, and quickened with life, and become fat, and fit for slaughter the succeeding June. They assert that some of their nation, who were formerly on a hunting excursion, lost one of their party, a boy, and return- ed to the village lamenting his loss, and believing him to have been killed by the Sioux nation, with whom they were then at war. Some time afterward, a war party was assembled, that departed to revenge the supposed murder of the boy. Du- ring their journey, they espied a bison, which they pursued and killed. When lo! on opening the abdomen of the ani- mal, what was their astonishment to observe the long lost boy, alive and well, after having been imprisoned there one entire year. Relieved from his animated prison house, he informed them, that, when he left his hunting companions, he proceeded onward a considerable distance, until he was so fortunate as to kill this bison. He removed the flesh from one side of the animal, and as a rainy inclement night was approaching, he concluded to take shelter within the body of the animal, in place of the viscera, which he had taken out. But during the Rocky Mountains. 279 night, whilst he slept, the flesh of the bison that he had cut off, grew over the side again, and effectually prevented his getting out, and the animal being restored to life, he had thus been pent up ever since. Such anecdotes, however puerile and absurd they may be, if characteristic, lead us to a more accurate and complete knowledge of the manners and habits of the people, than still more copious general remarks and reflections. The Minnetarees, in common with several other nations of our Indians, have the strange tradition of their origin, that they formerly lived under ground. M Two boys," say they, " strayed away from them, and absented themselves several days. At length they returned and informed the nation that they had discovered another world, situate above their pre- sent residence, where all was beautiful and light. They saw the sun, the earth, the Missouri, and the bison. This ac- count so delighted the people, that they immediately aban- doned their subterranean dwelling, and, led by the boys, ar- rived on the surface of the earth, at the spot which their vil- lages now occupy, and where they have dwelt ever since. Soon after they had established themselves in this new world, a party of strange men appeared mounted on horses. They attacked these wonderful Centaurs with their bows and arrows, and succeeded in killing one of them, on which the others fled. Not at first perceiving that the man and horse were two distinct animals, they were surprised to see the former fall to the earth, as if one part of the compound ani- mal was dead, and the other part still active, having received no injury. They at length succeeded in securing the horse, and after admiring the beauty of his form, and becoming fa- miliar with him, they proceeded to tie one of their young men upon his back with cords, that he might not fall off; the horse was then led cautiously by the bridle, until, finally, he became sufficiently fearless to ride alone. They seem to have full faith in the notion that, at their 280 Expedition, &c. death, they will be restored to the mansions of their ancestors under ground, from which they are intercepted by a large and rapid watercourse. Over this river, which may be compared to the Styx of the ancients, they are obliged to pass on a very narrow footway. Those Indians who have been useful to the nation, such as brave warriors or good hunters, pass over with ease, and arrive safely at the A-pah-he, or ancient village. But the worthless Indians slip off from the bridge or foot- way, into the stream that foams beneath in the swiftness of its course, which hurries them into oblivion, or Lethe. The Mandans, according to Lewis and Clark, have a tradition somewhat similar, and it strongly reminds us of the Alsiratof Mahomet, over which, it was supposed, that great leader was to conduct his Moslems to the bliss of futurity, whilst the unworthy were precipitated into the gulf which yawned beneath it. CHAPTER XIII. Death — Mourning for the Deceased— Physical Character — Senses — Manufactures and Arts — Domestic and Warlike Implements — War. When an Omawhaw dies, his kinsmen and friends assem- ble around his body, and bewail their loss with loud lamen- tation, weeping, and clapping of hands. Ong-pa-ton ga, being once on a visit to St. Louis, observed a number of cattle ga- thering- about a spot, where one of their kind had been re- cently slaughtered, smelling the blood, and pawing the earth ; he said they behaved very like his own people, on the death of a relative. They suffer the deceased to remain but a short time pre- viously to interment, and often bear the body to the grave, before the warmth of vitality is entirely dissipated. The bo- dy is enveloped in a bison robe, or blanket, which is secured by a cord. It is then carried to the grave on the shoulders of two or three men, and followed by the greater portion of the mourners, without any order. The grave is an oblong square, of sufficient length, and four or five feet deep. The body is placed in the grave, and with it a pair or two of mockasins, some meat for food, and many little articles and comforts, the gifts of affection, to be used on the long jour- ney which the deceased is supposed to be about to perform, in order to arrive at the Wa-noch a-te, or town of brave and generous spirits. The grave is then filled with earth, and a small tumulus is raised over it, proportioned in magnitude to the dignity of the deceased. The relatives bedaub their per- sons with white clay, scarify themselves with a flint, cut out pieces of their skin and flesh, pass arrows through their skin, vol. r. 36 282 Expedition to the and if on a march, they walk barefoot at a distance from then people, in testimony of the sincerity of their mourning. For a considerable time, they nightly visit the grave of the deceased, to lament over it. A sorrowing relative may be seen, of a bleak wintry night, bending over the grave, clad in a scanty robe, which scarcely conceals the middle of the back, as an additional self- punishment and unequivocal mani- festation of grief. For the death of a brave warrior, or of a chief, the lamen- tation is more general, and many of those, who visit the bo- dy previous to its removal, present to it blankets, bison robes, breech-cloths, and mockasins, which are sometimes thus accumulated in considerable numbers ; of these presents, part is retained by the orphans, if any, but the greater number is entombed with the body. Over the grave of a person of this description, a kind of roof or shelter is constructed, of pieces of wood reared against each other, and secured at top, then sodded over with grass sod. The season prescribed by custom for mourning, is a period of from seven to twelve months ; during this time the vio- lent expressions of their grief gradually diminish, and to- wards the expiration of the allotted season, the state of mourning is only manifested by the coating of white clay, and even this, like the black apparel of civilized mourners, is at length dispensed with, and with the same decorous gra- dation. A cruel proof of heartfelt grief, is exhibited by some of the natives, on the upper parts of the Missouri ; they cut off joints of their fingers ; the individual cuts the skin and liga- ments of the joint with his common eating knife, then places the joint between his teeth, and twists it off with violence, the teeth performing at the same time, the offices of a wedge and a vise. In form, the Missouri Indian is symmetrical and active,and m stature, equal, if not somewhat superior, to the ordinary Rocky Mountains. 283 European standard ; tall men are numerous. The active oc- cupations of war and hunting, together perhaps with the oc- casional privations, to which they are subjected, prevents that unsightly obesity, so often a concomitant of civilization, indolence, and serenity of mental temperament. From this representation ol the physical man, it is obvious that our observations do not correspond with those of Hum- boldt, regarding the natives of Canada, Florida, and New Spain, in as far as he represents them with the " squat body." The forehead retires remarkably backward, and the pos- terior part of the head, (occiput) has a flatness of appear- ance, attributable, perhaps, to the circumstance of its having rested so constantly during infancy, on the surface of a board, or on the scarcely less yielding interposed pad or pil- low. Yet that organ, to which in the phrenological system, the seat of amativeness is referred, although not usually very prominent, is still marked and distinct. The fascial angle of the cranium has been represented by Blumenbach at 73 degrees, an obliquity which induced him to place the American Indian in his series of the varieties of the human race, as the fourth in number. But his observations were made upon the cranium of a Carib, than which people, as Humboldt justly remarks, " there is no race on the globe in which the frontal bone is more depressed backwards, or which has a less projecting fore- head." This observation will not rigidly apply to the west- ern Indian, who certainly possesses a greater verticality of profile. Agreeably to the mensurations of Doctor Harlan, a cranium, which we obtained on the plains of the Platte, ex- hibits an angle of 78 degrees — A Wabash male 78°, female 80", and a Cherokee only 75o. The hair is coarse, black, glossy, and dense upon the head, sparse and slender upon the chin, independently of the cus- tom of extirpating it, but although the hair is certainly oval 284 Expedition to the in its transverse section, yet we could not perceive, that in this respect, its proportions exceeded our own. The line of the direction of their eyes is nearly rectilinear- ly transverse, being in this respect intermediate between the arquated line of the eyes of the white man, and that of the Indians of New Spain, who, according to Humboldt, have the corner of the eye directed upward towards the temples. The nose is generally prominent, and either aquiline or Roman,, with the wings not more dilated than those of white men. This form of nose is so prevalent, as to be regarded as the most beautiful ; it is no small compliment to tell a person that his nose is like that of a mule ; and beauty is in- dicated in their language of signs, by placing an arquated finger upon the face in imitation of the aquiline curve. The pug-nose, and the more common form ol the noses of the white Americans, of a concave outline, are regarded as re- mote from the standard of beauty. The lips are more tumid than those of the white Ameri- can, but very far less so than those of the negro. The lower jaw is large and robust ; the teeth are very strong, with broad crowns. The chin is well formed. The cheek bones arc prominent, but not angular like those of the Mongul, and stamp a peculiarity on the contour of the face, characteristic of the American Indian. The expression of the countenance is austere, often fero- cious.* Very few of them are left-handed, perhaps even a smaller number of them use the left hand in preference to the right, than is observable among white men. * The gravity of the Indian is almost proverbial: he will smile, but he rarely laughs. He does not indulge in badinage, or unnecessary remarks respecting the weather, merely for the purpose of talking, and generally addresses his companions in a low voice, and with few words, excepting in council, when his elocution is loud, rapid, and vehement : the voice is full, harsh, and somewhat guttural f he squaw, not unfrequently, trfFers a per- fect contrast in this respect, in her vivacious demeanour, shrill loquacity, and pleasant smile, and laugh, readily excited. Rocky Mountains. 285 The squaw differs from the males, in having a more squat figure, or is shorter and more thick bodied, with a much broader face. The colour of the Indian is, according to Volney, that of the skin of smoked bacon ham. It is sufficiently obvious that this colour is independent of climate; those parts of the body, which are, and, agreeably to their representations, always have been, perfectly shielded from the action of the rays of the sun, from their youth upward, are, notwithstanding, of the same tint with the face, which is never covered. In walking they preserve a perfectly upright carriage of the person, without an}- thing of the swinging gait so universal with the white people, which is regarded by them as exces- sively awkward, and which they imitate in their sports to excite the merriment of the spectators, though not in the pre- sence of those, whom they thus ridicule. In stepping, the feet are universally placed upon the ground in a parallel manner with each other; they say that turning out the toes in walking, as well as turning them inward, is a very disadvantageous mode of progressing, in high grass or in narrow pathways. The peculiar odour, diffused by the body of the Indian, seems to be caused, not so much by the cutaneous transpi- ration, as by the custom of rubbing themselves with odori- ferous plants, and with bison grease. They also sometimes make necklaces of a sort of sweet-scented grass, and suspend small parcels of it about their persons. The various kinds of pigments, with which they overspread their persons, may also be partially operative in producing this effect; and the nin- negahe, which they are so constantly habituated to smoke, is doubtless another agent. The odour of the Indian is rather agreeable than other- wise to many, and that diffused by the persons of the Pawnee war party near the Konza village, increased by a profuse perspiration from the violence of their exercise in running, 286 Expedition to the was rather pleasant to most of the members of our party. The Upsaroka or Crow Indians, are said to anoint themselves with castor. To the acute sense of smelling of the Indian, the odour of the white man is far from pleasant, and is often particularly remarked by the squaw to be offensive. Their sense of hearing is remarkably acute; ordinary con- versation amongst the men, as we have before observed, is conducted in a low tone of voice; often when you suppose from the compass of the speaker's voice, that he is addressing a person at his elbow, he is, in reality, directing his discourse to one on the opposite side of the room, or at a considerable distance. The ordinary conversation of the women is in a much louder tone than that of the men. Partial deafness, however, is not uncommon. The memory of the Omawhaw is exceedingly retentive. The Omawhaw seldom renders himself unhappy with gloomy anticipations of the future, but almost literally takes " no care for the morrow." He will say to his squaw, " cook what meat you have, for the Wahconda will give us more to-morrow, and if not to-morrow, next day, and if never, let us eat what we have got." They have but little mechanical ingenuity, but an indivi- dual of this nation, who is now no more, without acquiring any knowledge of the white people, as far as we could learn, mended the guns and traps of his countrymen, when not too seriously injured. But they have not attempted to repair either, since his death. They rarely construct skin canoes; they make war-clubs, rude saddles, hair ropes, stone pipes, wooden bowls, horn spoons, and many personal ornaments. The squaws make mockasins and leggings variously orna- mented; and handsome necklaces, wrought with beads of dif- ferent colours, which are symmetrically strung upon red silk, or thread coloured with vermillion. In the manufacture Rocky Mountains. 287 of this common, and much admired article of dress, ten dou- ble threads are attached by one end to a small wang or shred of leather, which is firmly stretched and fixed transversel) to the work; each double thread is placed at such a distance from the adjoining ones, as to give room for the beads. These are then strung on, one upon each double thread; by this operation a transverse row of beads is formed upon the work parallel to the wang; this being done, the left hand double thread is passed to the right, not over and under, but through all the other double threads, parallel to, and in con- tact with the row of beads, and in this position occupies the situation of woof or Jilling; but its extremity is continued along on the right side of the work, so as to resume, in that portion of its length, the character of warp or chain. Another row of beads is now put on; after which the next left hand double thread, is passed through each of the others to the right of the work, as the previous one had been. They also make handsome garters for supporting the leg- gings below the knee, of the breadth of the hand; they are formed of beads strung on worsted yarn. Their art of painting is very rude, yet they manage to give some idea of a battle, by graphic representations in colour, on a bison robe, *n the same manner are depicted the vari- ous animals, which are the objects of their hunts. These robes are also decorated with blue, red, and black, broad lines, form- ing various designs; indeed it is very common to see a robe thus ornamented, worn by an Omawhaw. The art of sculpture is also in its rudest state, and is al- most limited to the ornamenting of the war- club with in- dented lines, forming different angular figures. Their persons are often neatly tattooed in straight lines, and in angles on the breast, neck, and arms. The daughters of chiefs, and those of wealthy Indians, generally are denoted by a small round spot, tattooed on the forehead. The process of tattooing is performed by persons, who make it a business 288 Expedition to the of profit. Their instrument consists of three or four needles, tie d to the truncated and flattened end of a stick, in such an arrangement that the points may form a straight line; the fi- gure desired is traced upon the skin, and some dissolved gun-powder, or pulverized charcoal, is pricked in with this instrument, agreeably to the figure. The operator must be well paid, and hence it is not every one that can convenient- ly sustain the expense, of having this distinguishing mark, placed on the forehead of his children. Their astronomical knowledge is very limited. They dis- tinguish the north star (Polaris), and are aware of its being apparently stationary, while the others seem to revolve. Venus is known by the name of Me-ka-ka-tun-guh, or Big Star. The constellation of the seven stars, (PleiadesJ is called 7a- pa, or deer's head. The constellation of the great bear, (Ur- sus major,) is distinguished by the term Wa-ba-ha, or car for transporting sick or wounded persons on a march. The ga- lasy is caHed Wahconda-ojun-ga, or the path of the Master of Life. When the moon is eclipsed, they say Me-ombot- tsa, or the moon is dead; and when the sun is eclipsed, they say the sun is dead. A comet they denominate Me-ka-ka-na- re, or blazing star; this name, at least, was given to the co- met of 1811; they regarded it as portending the death of some great chief; and as it happened, one of the great Paw- nee chiefs did die the same year, which confirmed them in their notion. The three stars of Orion's Belt, are called Me- huh-se or the goose-foot. Wangewaha the Hard heart, chief of the Ioways, has made himself considerably acquainted with the manners of the white people; he surprised Mr. Dougherty one day by in- quiring, if it is true that the earth revolves round the sun; he was of course answered in the affirmative; when a sarcastic Indian of a group sitting near, was overheard to say in a low voice, that it was indeed a pretty story to tell them, when any person could see the sun rise there, pass Rocky Mountains. 289 « along in that direction, and set there, (pointing with his fin- ger to the apparent course of the luminary.) The day is divided into morning, noon, evening, and night; and respectively indicated by the words, Cas-aht-te, Me-o- kons-ka, Paz-za and Hon-da. Any particular hour of the day, is denoted by pointing to the apparent place of the sun at the specified time. The years are denoted by the number of winters, and the months by lunations. Their geographical knowledge of the country, over which they roam, is remarkably exact. They know intimately every river and creek in the vicinity of the Missouri, from Grand river up to the Arickaree nation, on the left side of the river, and as far down as the Osage river on the right, and south as far as the Black hills, together with their courses and dis- tances. Mr. Dougherty, accompanied with two or three young In- dians, arrived at an Omawhaw hunting encampment, late in the evening, and, after inquiring at several of the lodges, at length entered the one in which he intended to remain. Be- ing asked by which way he had come, he pointed out, as he thought, the true direction; at this his fellow travellers smiled, and told him he was mistaken. He was not undeceived, till he went out of the lodge to observe the direction they had indicated, when he became satisfied of their correctness. They had, however, been less frequently in that part of the country, than he had been; but they had, without doubt, in- stinctively noted all the changes of the direction, which thev had made in winding through the temporary village, for they could not avail themselves of previous local knowledge. But although they are remarkably accurate, in their know- ledge of the proper direction in which to travel, in order to reach a given point, yet they are often lost during foggy days, or during heavy snow storms. Their culinary utensils are few in number, and simple in kind. The original earthenware pots are now rarely used by vol. i. 37 290 Expedition to the the nations on the lower part of the Missouri, being substi- tuted by brass kettles, which they procure from the traders in exchange for their peltries. The Pawnees, however, whose intercourse with the whites has been less considerable, than that of the nations bordering more closely on the Missouri, still employ earthen vessels, and yet continue tbe limited manufacture of them. These vessels are not glazed, and re- semble in composition the antique fragments of Indian earth- enware, found in various parts of the United States; the me- mentos of a numerous people, that have been destroyed by ob- scure causes, as well as by the avaricious policy, and cruel- ly unjust and barbarous encroachments of a people, profes- sing the mild doctrines of " peace on earth and good will to men." Food is served up in wooden bowls, of a very wide and simple form, and of various sizes, generally carved, with much patient application, out of a large knot or protuberance of the side of a tree. The spoon is made of bison horn, and is of a large size; the handle, variously ornamented by notch- ing, and other rude carving, is elevated into an angle of fifty or sixty degrees with its bowl, which is about three inches wide, by about five in length; a size, which, in civilized life, would be inadmissible. The only implement of husbandry is the hoe; if they have not an iron one, they substitute the scapula of a bison, attached to a stick in such a manner, as to present the same form. The traders supply them with axes of iron. The weapons used in hunting are bows and arrows, and guns. The bow is about four feet long, of a simple form, composed of hickory, or hop-horn beam wood, (ostrya vir- ginica,) or bow-wood, fmaclura aurantiaca of Nuttall,) the latter being greatly preferred. The cord is of twisted bison, or elk sinew. The hunting arrow is generally made of arrow- wood (viburnum), about two feet in length, of the usual cy- lindric form, and armed with an elongate-triangular spear Rocky Mountains. 29 1 head, made of sheet iron, of which the shoulders are round- ed, instead of the ordinary barbed form ; it is firmly affixed to the shank by deer sinew, and its flight is equalised by three half webs of the feathers of a turkey, neatly secured near its base, in the usual manner. The war arrow differs from that used for hunting, in having a barbed spear-head, very slightly attached to the wood, so that if it penetrate the body of an enemy, it cannnot be withdrawn, without leaving the point in the wound. The arrows are contained in a quiver, which is slung ob- liquely across the back, and which is generally made of Cou- gar skin, with the tail of the animal dangling down from the upper extremity ; attached to this quiver is also a skin case for the bow, when not in use. To bend the bow requires the exertion of considerable force, dexterously applied ; for this purpose three fingers are placed upon the string, whilst the thumb and index finger grasp the base of the arrow, where it rests on the string ; the wrist is defended from the per- cussion of the string, by a guard of leather. The smooth bored gun is preferred to the rifle, the latter being too heavy for their use. Those called Mackinaw guns are greatly pre- ferred to those which they more commonly procure from our traders, being far more substantial and serviceable. They make use of no traps, excepting those for catching beaver, which they obtain from the traders chiefly on loan. The hooks which they use in fishing are bought of the tra- ders. They have no fishing nets. We saw no other domestic animals in the Indian villages than horses, mules, asses, and dogs. The first are by no means elegantly formed, but they are hardy and serviceable. The Indians are generally cruel horse-masters, perhaps iD a great measure through necessity , the backs of their horses are very often sore and ulcerated, from the friction of the rude saddle, which is fashioned after the Spanish manner, being elevated at the pummel and croup, and resting on skin 292 Expedition to the saddle cloths without padding. They ride extremely well, and make great use of the whip and the heel. The former is attached to the wrist by a broad band, which passes through a hole perforated near the end of the handle. The handle is about fifteen inches long only, and very stout; that of the whip of Hashea, the Oto warrior, is the section of a gun-barrel. The lash is composed of two thongs of bison skin, from one fourth to a half an inch wide. These are al- ternately passed through smull longitudinal slits cut in each, and, when finished, exhibit, on a cursory view, the appear- ance of a flat plait, thick, and longer than the handle. The dogs of the Konzas are generally of mixed breed, between our dogs with pendant ears, and the native dogs, whose ears are universally erect ; the Indians of this na- tion seek every opportunity to cross the breed. These mon- grel dogs are less common with the Omawhaws ; while the dogs of the Pawnees, generally, have preserved their origin- al form. No regular sentinels are appointed to watch during the night ; but many of the young men, who are moving about the greater part of the night, on their errands of love, often singing and hallooing to excite the attention of their mistress- es, are the only guards of the safety of the village from sur- prise. If, however, the nation have reason to believe that the enemy is near at hand, or that there is a probability of an attack, they are necessarily vigilant ; young warriors vol- unteer to look out at different points, or are requested to do so by the chiefs. Wars generally originate in the stealing of horses, and the elopement of squaws ; they are, sometimes, the consequence of infringing on each other's hunting grounds. Hostilities are generally conducted by small predatory parties, which are originated and formed under the influence of some ap- proved warrior. An individual, of this description, having determined to endeavour to assemble a war party, as a first Rocky Mountains. 293 step, paints himself over with white clay ; he then passes through the camp, or village, crying aloud to the Wahconda, and requesting the young warriors of the nation to have pity on him, and accompany him to strike at the enemy ; he then ascends some hill or elevation, or repairs to the woods, and there continues for some time his ejaculations. The follow- ing day he gives a feast, to all such as are willing to accom- pany him, and it is distinctly understood, that all of those who partake of his hospitality on this occasion, are enlisted for the excursion. He occasionally repeats this crying and feasting, until a convenient period can be assigned for their departure. During this interval he also occupies himself in making medicine, hanging out his medicine bags, &c. At his feasts he harangues his men, telling them that they must endeavour to make themselves known to the nation, by their warlike deeds. This leader the French distinguish by the name of parti- zan% and the Omawhaws No-doh-hun guh ; his medicine par- cel, upon which much reliance is placed, for the successful termination of their adventure, contains, almost always, the skin of a sparrow hawk, (Falco sparverius) and many small articles, such as wampum, beads, and tobacco, all attached to a belt, but carefully and neatly enveloped in bark, and tied around by strips of the same material, forming a cylin- drical figure, of about twelve inches in length. This is suspended upon the back or shoulders of the par- tizan, by its belt, which passes round his neck. Having their mockasins, leggings, guns, bows and arrows, spears, war clubs, and scalping knives prepared, each man fur- nishes himself with some provisions, and they all depart silently during the night, led by the partizan. On their rout towards the enemy they proceed with great caution, and constantly send forward runners, or spies, to reconnoitre. When encamped, some individuals are vigilant during the night, but if they suppose themselves to be dis- tant from the enemy, they keep no watch. 294 Expedition to the The medicine bag is not permitted to touch the ground ; accordingly on encamping, it is carefully suspended to a forked stick, which is stuck firmly in the soil ; the ceremony of smoking to it, is then performed, the stem of the pipe being occasionally directed towards it, the heavens, and the earth. After this ceremony, if the party is in the vicinity of the enemy, the partizan places the medicine bag about the neck of one of his trusty warriors, and, whispering in his ear, directs him to take two or three men, and look carefully about for signs of the enemy. On the return of this messenger the partizan runs to meet him, receives his report in a whisper, takes the important charge from his neck, and whilst returning it to its place, communicates the intelligence he has received to his party; " no sign of the enemy has yet been discovered, but have patience, my brave young men, the Wahconda will soon have pity on us, and show us the enemy we so anxiously seek." If, on the contrary, the enemy is discovered, his position and numbers are reconnoitred, and the party prepares to attack them. The sacred medicine bag is now opened by the par- tizan ; the envelop is rejected, and the remainder is suspend- ed from his neck, with the bird skin, wampum, &c. hanging down before, from the belt. This is a signal indicating that a blow must be struck. The party then paint themselves and smoke if time admits of it. The partizan at length gives the wished for order, and the whole move onward, with slow and cautious steps, in order to surprise the enemy ; but if discovered, they rush on with impetuosity, and without any regular order. If the scene of the contest lies in the forest, they shield themselves behind trees of small diameter, when at the proper distance, from whence they discharge their missiles. If the attack is made in the open plain, where no shelter offers, they leap about from one side to another, and preserve a constant state of activity, for the purpose of pre- venting any steady aim from being taken at them, by their adversaries. Rocky Mountains. 295 It is not the mere shooting down of an enemy, that con- fers great honour upon a warrior ; this, the Indians say, can be done by any person, however cowardly he may be. But high distinction is due to the gallant soul, that advances upon the field of battle, and captures an enemy, or who first strikes, or even touches the body of a fallen enemy, in pre- sence of the friends of the deceased, who are generally watch- ing their opportunity to revenge his death. This is, indeed, an extraordinary proof of courage, as the act is not to be accomplished without the greatest hazard of life ; the adventurer is obliged to expose himself, often, to a great number of assailants, besides the danger of falling into an ambush, in attempting to strike the decoy. It is this strik- ing, that is numbered amongst their war feats by the war- riors, at their dances. The capture of a prisoner confers the highest honour on the captor. Striking an enemy, whilst active, appears to be the second in rank, of their great martial achievements. Striking his dead, or disabled body, confers the third honour. Cap- turing a horse may be regarded as the fourth ; presenting a horse to any person, the fifth, and the shooting, or otherwise killing an enemy, by a missile, is the sixth in point of rank of military deeds, in the estimation of the Omawhaws. The taking of a scalp is merely an evidence of what has been done, and, of itself, seems to confer no honour. The prisoners are well guarded, and not roughly treated, unless a strong party of the enemy are in pursuit, when thev are put to death. On the battle ground, the wounded of the vanquished are killed, and their dead are cut and hacked by the victors ; but if it should chance to be accessible to the squaws, they perform the chief part in this tragedy. They sever the limbs from the bodies, and attaching them to strings, drag them about with vociferous exultation ; etiam genitalia excidunt, and tying them about the necks of their dogs, they drive 296 Expedition to the them before them, with much shouting, laughter, noise, and obscene expressions. A war party, after having struck a blow upon the enemy, return with rapidity towards their village. They leave the mutilated carcasses of the slain, upon the contested field, a prey to the wolves and vultures. Their own dead are covered with wood or stones, and their wound- ed are transported on litters, on the shoulders of others, or if the)'' have horses with them, upon cars of a very simple con- struction. Two poles are attached to the neck of the horse, in the manner of shafts, which trail upon the ground behind. These are so connected, behind the horse, with cross pieces, lashed on, that a bison robe can be suspended to them, for the reception of the wounded person. If the attack is made during the night, or if the party has only captured horses, unobserved by the enemy, a mockasin or arrow, is left in a conspicuous situation, to inform the ene- my of the nation to which the aggressors belong. Large war parties, sometimes divide into smaller parties, in order to attack simultaneously at different points. Each of these parties on its return, at its different encampments, inserts small painted sticks in the soil, pointing to the rout the\ have taken. They also peel off a portion of the bark from a tree, and on the trunk thus denuded, and rendered conspicuous, they delineate hieroglyphics, with vermillion or charcoal, indicative of the success or misfortune of the party, in their proceedings against the enemy. These hieroglyphics are rudely drawn, but are sufficiently significant, to convey the requisite intelligence, to another division of the party, that may succeed them. On this rude chart, the comba- tants are generally represented by small straight lines, each surmounted by a head-like termination, and are readily dis- tinguishable from each other ; the arms and legs are also re- presented, when necessary to record the performance of some particular act, or to exhibit a wound. Wounds are indi- Rocky Mountains. 297 cated by the representation of the dropping of blood from the part; an arrow wound, by adding a line for the arrow, from which the Indian is able to estimate, with some accura- cy, its direction, and the depth to which it entered. The killed are represented by prostrate lines ; equestrians are also particularized, and if wounded or killed, they are seen to spout blood, or to be in the act of falling from their horses. Prisoners are denoted by their being led, and the number of captured horses is made known by the number of lunules, representing their track- The number of guns taken, may be ascertained by bent lines, on the angle of which is some- thing like the prominences of the lock. Women are por- trayed with short petticoats, and prominent breasts, and un- married females by the short queues at the ears, before des- cribed. A war party, on its return, generally halts upon some ele- vated ground, within sight of the village ; and if they have been successful, they sit down and smoke their pipes. The villagers on discovering them, rush out to meet them, and receive a brief relation of the events, that have'occurred dur- ing the expedition. All then return to the village, exhibiting by the way, the greatest demonstrations of joy, by discharging their guns, singing war songs, &c. The scalps, stretched upon hoops, and dried, are carried upon rods of five or six feet in length. Arrived at the village, some of the squaws, wives to the warriors of the party, assume the dress of their husbands, and, with the rods bearing the scalps in their hands, dance around a large post, reddened with Vermillion, and, in concert with the young warriors, sing the war and scalp songs ; the young warriors occasionally step into the ring of the dancers, and all keep time, with dance and song, to the loud beat of the gong. Into this dance are also admitted the relatives of the war party. This barbarous dance appears to delight them, and par- vol. i. 38 298 Expedition to the ticularly the squaws, who are the principal actors, more than almost any other of their enjoyments. Indeed, it is to the squaws, that many of these exertions are attributable, as those, whose husbands have not been suc- cessful in war, frequently murmur, saying, " you have had me for a wife, a long time, and have never yet gratified me with the scalp dance." Those squaws, whose husbands or relatives have been kill- ed during the excursions of the party, take no part in this blissful dance, but rub themselves with clay, and lament. This dance is repeated every night for two or three weeks, after which it is renewed occasionally for a twelvemonth. The scalps are often cut into slips, that many of the dancers may be accommodated with them; but this was never done with an intention to deceive, respecting the actual number of the enemy killed. After the termination of this ceremo- ny, the scalps are either thrown away, or are used to decor- ate the leggings of the warrior, or to suspend from his me- dicine bag, or from the bridle of his horse. Soon after the return of the party, the principal warriors, are invited to feasts by different villagers, where they re- count the events that have transpired during their absence. They narrate the mode of approaching the enemy, the onset, the battle, all the little particulars of which are detailed ; but they seem to dwell with particular pleasure on the conduct of individuals of the enemy, as it appeared immediately be- fore they received the death blow; if there was any move- ment of the body, or emotion exhibited upon the countenance of the victim, that betrayed a want of firmness, or fear of death, at that awful juncture, the account excites much laughter in the audience. If the disabled individual was so imbecile, as to shrink from a blow of the tomahawk or war- club, he is ridiculed as a coward. If he is said to have cried for quarters, or begged for mercy, or to have held up the palm of his hand towards the victor to appease his ven- Rocky Mountains. 299 geance, the account is received with ridicule and laughter, at the expense of the deceased. If, on the contrary, he is said to have perished with that stoicism and contempt of death, which is regarded as worthy of the Indian warrior, the audi- tors, although they may smile with pleasure at the death of an enemy, yet pay due honour to his manes, saying he was a brave fellow ; and they do not fail to applaud the bravery of his victor also. All those of the party, who have first struck a body, or taken a prisoner, paint themselves black, and if any strangers are in the village, they put on their crow, and appear before them, or near them, and sing their war-song in which their exploits are detailed. The prisoners are differently treated according to their sex, age, and qualifications. Of the squaws they make slaves, or rather servants, though these are sometimes advantage- ously married. To the young men the task of tending horses is commonly assigned ; but the children are generally adopt- ed into their families, and are treated in every respect as their own offspring ; when arrived at maturity they are identified with the nation, and it would be an insult to apply the name of their own countrymen to them. CHAPTER XIV. War — Negotiation for peace — Revenge— Self-esteem— Hospi- tality— Mimickry. An individual warrior not unfrequently goes to war un- accompanied ; but parties are generally made up for this pur- pose, in the manner before mentioned. In cases of extraor- dinary provocation, the whole nation of warriors, marches in a body to attack the enemy, under the direction of the principal chief. More than twenty years ago, the Omawhaws marched against the Pawnee Mahas or Pawnee Loups. They en- countered them on their hunting grounds, between the Platte and Quicourre rivers, in the prairie, where they attacked them, killed sixty, and wounded a great many ; after securing a number of prisoners, and many horses, they returned with their booty, having lost but fifteen warriors. Peace was soon after concluded between the two nations, which has not been since violated, excepting on one occassion, when their dispute was bloodless, and but of short duration. Sometime after this event, Mot-tschu-jinga or the Little grizzly bear, a brave and distinguished warrior of the nation, with two or three attendants, visited the village of the Paw- nee republicans, in order to perform the calumet dance be- fore the people. This was a band with whom they were barely at peace. The republicans siezed him, flogged him, cut off his hair, broke his pipe, forced him to drink urine mixed with bison gall, and drove him from the village with- out food. These extraordinary and most humiliating indig- nities, aroused within him, the fiercest spirit of vengeance. He returned, and related his misfortune to his people, who, Expedition, &c. 301 penetrated with indignation, promptly assembled in arms, and led by the great Washingguhsahba or Black Bird, marched to revenge such unheard-of indignity. When with- in a short distance of the devoted village, they placed their squaws in a secure situation, under a proper guard, and proceeded to the attack. They urged the contest so fiercely that the enemy was driven from lodge to lodge, until four lodges only were left to them, in which they succeeded in defending themselves ; the town, with the exception only of the four lodges, was then burned to the ground, and the vic- tors retired after destroying nearly one hundred of the enemy, and wounding a great number, with the loss, to themselves, of only fifteen warriors. Under the same great leader, the nation, on another occa- sion, attacked the Puncaws ; this act was induced by the practice of the latter of stealing squaws and horses from the Omawhaws. The Puncaws, for the purpose of defending themselves against the fire of the enemy, threw up an ear- then embankment ; but finding, notwithstanding the protec- tion it afforded them, that their numbers rapidly diminished under the galling fire opposed to them, they determined to sue for peace ; for this purpose two pipe bearers were sent out successively towards the enemy, but they were both shot down. A chief then dressed up his handsome daughter, and sent her forth with a pipe to the Omawhaws. This mission was respected, the stern victors were vanquished by beauty, the proffered pipe was accepted, and unhesitatingly smoked, and a peace was concluded, which has not since been infract- ed by the Omawhaws. Soon after the death of Washingguh- sahba, his successor Mushchinga, the Big Rabbit, led thena- tion against the Otos, whom they attacked in their village. It was the intention of the assailants to burn the village, and exterminate the nation. With this view they provided them- selves with dry grass, which was twisted into the form of thick ropes, and secured to their girdles. When within the 302 Expedition to the proper distance they despatched a detachment to take ambush on the opposite side of the village, then kindled a fire, at which they lighted the grass torches, and rushing into the village succeeded in setting many of the lodges on fire, by fixing the torches to them. Such was the fury of the unex- pected attack, that the Oto warriors were driven from the village, but falling into the ambuscade, they fought their way back to their lodges, with much slaughter. A heavy fall of rain now commenced, which rescued the remaining Otos from entire destruction. The conflagration was quickly ex- tinguished, the guns and bow strings of the invaders became useless, and the Otos sallying out with fresh weapons, forc- ed them to a precipitate retreat. The loss was severe on both sides, but the Omawhaws succeeded in carrying off almost all the horses of the enemy, besides a number of prisoners, furniture, &c. The war continued between these two nations, until the pacification, which was accomplished through the agency of Lewis and Clark, and has continu- ed to the present day. Reverting to the period of the government of Washingguh- sahba, we are informed that the Padoucas once approached the nation, and stole a number of horses, when this chief assembled his warriors, and pursued them ; observing the tracks of their feet in the soft earth, he discharged his gun repeatedly into them, declaring that thereby he would crip- ple the fugitives so entirely that it would be easy to over- take and destroy them. Accordingly he did overtake them, and, agreeably to the Indian account, they were unable to defend themselves, and were all destroyed but two or three, who escaped, and failed not to inform their people of the wonderful medicine of the victor. The last martial expedition of Washingguhsahba terminated disastrously for his nation. He led his warriors against the Konzas, halted them near the village of that people, and singly rode round the village, repeatedly discharging his gun Rocky Mountains. 303 at the inhabitants, as he passed swiftly by them. As soon as the Konza warriors were collected, they sallied out in pur- suit of the Black-bird, who had now joined his party. The parties closed, and intermingled in fight, and the contest was obstinate and protracted. An Omawhaw pierced the thigh of a Konza with an arrow ; the latter called aloud to inquire the name of his adversary, and was answered, No-zun doj- je, (he who does not dodge). " My name," said the Kon- za, " is — ■ (he who kills brave men,) so come on, we are happily met." They approached each other, leaping laterally and capering, the Omawhaw discharging his arrows, and the Konza endeavouring to get aim with his fusee ; the latter at length succeeded, and shot his opponent. The conflict at length became too warm for the Omaw- haws, who retreated eight miles, disputing the ground, how- ever, the whole distance. They now arrived at the prairie, on which we encamped on the evening of twenty-fourth of August last. Here the Omawhaws again made a stand, and fought the principal battle, but were overpowered, and obliged to fly, leaving their numerous killed and wounded to the vengeance of the enemy. These two nations still continue hostile to each other. It is said that, during the youth of Washingguhsahba, he was taken prisoner by the Sioux. That the town of the Omaw- haws was then on the opposite bank of the Missouri, at the mouth of the stream called by Lewis and Clark, Floyd's river, and that the nation had not, at that time, been long resident there. Sometime previous to the variolous mortality in the Omaw- haw nation, several bands of Sioux, in conjunction with the Shienne nation, attacked them on their return from a sum- mer hunt, and overpowered them by numbers. A few years since, the Pawnees made a general attack upon the Konza village. They were all mounted on horse- 304 Expedition to the back, and rode furiously about whilst they fired into the Konza lodges. The principal chief of the nation, Burning- heart, ran through his village, calling out to his warriors to remain quietly in their houses, for the present, and not show themselves to the enemy, or return their fire, in order to give them time to tire out their horses, by continued action. After a while a few shots were returned, to prevent the Pawnees from rushing into the town itself, and when the horses appeared to be sufficiently fatigued, Burning-heart despatched two strong parties from the opposite end of the village from that upon which the attack was made, one of which, moving rapidly upon their hands and knees, gained a ravine, along which they ran until they gained the enemy's rear ; they were here joined by the other party, which had gained the same situation by means of a lower prairie, along the bank of which they passed unperceived. Finding them- selves thus out-generalled, the Pawnees were under the ne- cessity of charging through the enemy, and flying with jaded horses before them. So rapid was the pursuit, that the Paw- nees were obliged to precipitate themselves into the ravines, over which they must pass, to the destruction of many of their horses. Finally they made their escape, with the loss of eighty men, and the greater part of their horses. When a hunting party is suddenly attacked by an enemy, the squaws, whilst their husbands are engaged in opposing the enemy, sedulously occupy themselves in digging basin- shaped pits with their hoes, for their personal security, and stooping down in them, escape the missiles of the contending parties ; their husbands, if too hard pressed, also retreat to these cavities, from which they can continue the action, with very little exposure of their own persons, whilst the enemy possesses no shelter. Besides the national battles, in which great waste of life occurs, small war parties, or such as have been already de- scribed, are almost constantly in motion, and are also de- structive. Rocky Mountains . 305 The Serpent's Head, a distinguished Oto warrior, as- sembled a war party of thirty men, and moved against the Konzas. Within a few miles of their village, at a narrow de- file on Blue-earth creek, he placed his party in ambush, and with two or three selected men, he advanced to within a hundred yards of the village. At the dawn of day a Konza, having occasion to walk a short distance, was attacked by the Serpent's Head singly, who buried his tomahawk in his head, and took off his scalp, within view of many of the vil- lagers. These seized their weapons, and immediately pur- sued the fugitives, until they reached the pass, where, falling into the ambuscade prepared for their reception, they lost seven of their number, and were obliged to retreat precipi- tately, to seek the protection of the main body of their war- riors, who, they supposed, were now in pursuit, and at no great distance in the rear. The Otoes, after striking and scalping the slain, proceeded on their way home, at a very moderate pace, not caring to elude the powerful force, which they well knew must be hard by. The Konza warriors, dashing on at full speed, at length discovered the retreating band, moving at their lei- sure over a prairie, and immediately attacked them. The Otoes withstood the shock of the overwhelming force for some time, until, losing a number of their party, they were under the necessity of seeking safety in flight. An Oto hunting party, consisting of five lodges, was en- camped in the vicinity of the Konza hunting grounds ; two or three of their number, who were at a distance from their companions, encountered a young Konza warrior, who de- liberately approached them, and when sufficiently near, dis- charged his gun at them, but was immediately shot down. The Otoes suspecting, from some appearances, the prox- imity of a large body of the enemy, precipitately returned to their party, and hastened to place themselves in an atti- tude of defence. They availed themselves of three large logs, vol. l. 39 306 Expedition to the which had fallen so as to form a triangular area, into which they removed their effects, and strengthened the defences in such a manner as to afford them some security. The squaws dug cavities in the earth for themselves; and their children, as an additional security. Scarcely were these preparations finished, when the whole body of the Konza warriors made their appearance, and com- menced the attack on this little body of fifteen Otoes. These gallant fellows, thus advantageously posted, notwithstanding the fearful odds opposed to them, returned the fire of the enemy promptly, and at length succeeded in repulsing them, with the loss of two or three of their own men, and after having killed about fifteen of the Konzas. The following trait in the character of a distinguished warrior is worthy of being recorded. During the residence of the Pawnees on the Platte at the cedar hills, about fifteen or eighteen years since, the Otoes were frequently at war with them, notwithstanding their own great numerical inferiority. On one occasion, during a pacific interval, some Otoes followed the Pawnees, who had just left their village on a national hunt, and stole two horses from them. This outrage, committed in time of peace, highly incensed Wasacaruja : " If you wish for war," said he to the offen- ders, as he mounted his horse, " you shall have it." He rode immediately, in his anger, to the deserted Pawnee vil- lage, and setting fire to the lodges, burned them all to the ground. On their return the Pawnees, finding their village destroy- ed, they marched in a body to the Otoes, and demanded satisfaction for the injury they had received. Wasacaruja, perhaps, penitent for his rash act, and no doubt now wishing to avert the hostilities which he had incited, advanced to them at once, saying " I am the person who burned your town, kill me if you will." This however the Pawnees de- clined, and were at length reconciled to their loss, by pre- Rocky Mountains. 307 sents of horses and merchandize. They then removed from the vicinity of the Otoes, and erected their present village on the Loup fork of the Platte. The Otoes, as well as the Konza warriors, will not, on any consideration, sit down whilst on a war excursion, until evening ; they will lie down, and stoop down, but they must not rest upon the ground in a sitting posture. An Upsaroka or Crow war party, who were hovering about the Rickaree village, waiting an opportunity to strike a blow, observed a boy entirely alone, and at a distance from any succour ; having a boy belonging to the party much of the same size, they permitted him to attack the Rickaree boy singly ; the assailant was successful, and brought off the scalp of the enemy. One of the warriors then took the scalp, and rode with it near to the village in defiance. . During the last seven or eight years, since they have become influenced by the agents of the United States, the Omawhaws have entirely abstained from carrying the war into the country of their enemies ; no unprovoked parties have been sent out, and the nation, agreeably to the injunc- tions of the agents, restricts its military operations solely to defensive warfare. Partial attacks have been made upon them during this time, which have always been promptly repelled, sometimes with considerable slaughter. That implicit confidence may be justly reposed upon, at least, some of this people, the following anecdote will testify. In the year 1815 the Ioways came to the mouth of the Platte river, and found there a trader engaged in trafficking with the Otoes. They attempted to take possession of his merchandize by force, but were opposed and repelled by the Otoes, who determined to protect their trader. The Ioways, however, threatened the trader to plunder him, as soon as the Otoes should depart, whose provisions being now nearly exhausted, the fears of the trader for his safety became more 308 Expedition to the excited, in proportion as the time of their departure approach- ed. He despatched a boy, with a letter to his partner Mr. Lisa, then trading at Council Blaff, a distance of thirty miles, informing him of his situation, and of the fact, which had but then come to his knowledge, that the low ays had form- ed a small party for the purpose of visiting Council Bluff, and committing some depredations there. On the reception of this intelligence Mr. Lisa sent a fa- vourite Omawhaw, Wa-co-ra, to accompany the boy with his reply. In the meantime the Ioway party had set out, and after travelling a considerable distance, the partizan became lame, and was left with a companion on the way. Wacora, fortunately, did not meet the party, but he saw the partizan with his companion, calmly seated in fancied security, amongst the thick bushes. He crept silently near to them, who were distinctly recognized by the boy, and dis- charging his gun, broke the arm of the partizan's companion. The partizan immediately perceiving the aggressor to be an Omawhaw, exclaimed, " I am a half Omawhaw, I was going to war against the Long knives, not against the Omaw- haws, shoot no more, you have wounded one of us." Wa- cora answered, " I am a Long knife," upon which the wounded man, made a charge with a lance, and had nearly transfixed the boy, when Wacora shot him ; he afterwards killed the partizan, and bore off their scalps. Finding now the trail of the party, which he readily ascertained by their tracks, to consist of nine persons, he determined to return immediately with his utmost speed, even at the risk of meet- ing with the party, in order to inform Mr. Lisa of their pre- sence in his vicinity ; this he accomplished at the imminent hazard of his life. Thus proving that the most unlimited confidence, might be safely reposed in his faithful perform- ance of his trusts. Warriors often venture singly into the vicinity of an ene- Rocky Mountains. 309 my's village, and even into the village itself, to capture hor- ses or kill one of the nation. The Borgne, or One Eye, Ka-ko-a-kis, late grand chief of the Minnetarees, entered the village of an enemy at night, with his robe covering his head for concealment. He passed into several lodges, until at length he found one tenanted, at the moment, only by a young squaw ; he drew his knife, compelled her to submit to his desires, then stabbed her to the heart, and bore off her scalp. He was a chief possessed of much power, but was almost universally disliked as a very bad man, and was at length killed by the Red-shield chief, E-tam-ina-geh-iss-sha. The warriors often meet together and narrate, emulcusly their war exploits ; two of them were one day thus engaged, one of whom, Wa-ke-da, or the Shooter, had killed more ene- mies than any other individual of his nation, although he had never struck more than two or three bodies of the slain. They continued for some time to boast of their feats, when the father of Wakeda, an old man of seventy years, in order to terminate the altercation, leaped from his seat and after striking upon several nations, concluded by the following witticism, " I approached the Pawnee-mahaws alone, for the purpose of stealing horses. I entered their village in the evening, succeeded in getting into one of their stalls, and was proceeding to take out the horses, when I was surround- ed and made prisoner. They flogged me, thrust a stick in- to my anus, and sent me off, with the stick depending like a tail." This, as was intended, terminated the boasting, and the parties joined in general good humour. Their notions of the attributes of bravery, differ in many respects from those which we entertain of them. It is in their estimation no proof either of valour or good sense, for a warrior to advance into the plain, stand still, and suffer his enemy to take deliberate aim, in order to shoot him down, when such a course of conduct can be avoided ; but they say that when a warrior goes to battle, it is a duty, which is due 310 Expedition to the to himself, to his nation, and to his friends, to avail himself of every possible advantage over his enemy, and even to kill him, if he can, without any risk of his own person. But a warrior must never yield in battle ; he must contend until death, if he cannot escape from his enemy. And if entirely surrounded, he rushes amongst them, and endeavours to des- troy or injure as many as possible, and in death he exhibits traits of passive courage, which form no part of the charac- ter of civilized men. The succeeding narrative may serve, better than any general remarks, to convey an idea of the formalities attendant on«a negotiation for peace, amongst the Missouri Indians. During the stay of our detached party at the Konza vil- lage, several chief men of the nation requested Mr. Dough- erty, to lead a pacific deputation from their nation, to their enemies the Otoes, Missouries, and Ioways, then dwell- ing in one village on the Platte. Circumstances then pre- vented the gratification of their wishes, but he gave them to understand, that if the deputation would meet our party near Council Bluff, he would probably then be authorised to bear them company ; on which they determined to send a party thither. Accordingly, on the day preceding the arrival of our steam boat at the position chosen for our winter canton- ment, a deputation from the Konzas arrived for that purpose. It consisted of six men, led by He-roch-che, or the Real War Eagle, one of the principal warriors of the Konza na- tion. Mr. Dougherty having made their pacific mission known to Major O' Fallon, the latter expressed to them his cordial approbation of their intentions, and the following day he des- patched Mr. Dougherty with them, to protect them by his presence, on their approach to the enemy, and to assist them by his mediation, in their negociations, should it be found necessary. They had not proceeded far on the way, when one of the Rocky Mountains. 311 Indians inquired if the Sioux war parties were often in the neighbourhood. Mr. Dougherty informed them that they were ; that they had killed an Oto sometime since, and more recently, four Omawhaw squaws. This intelligence induced Herochshe to request the loan of Mr. Dougherty's gun, they all looked sharply about them, and requested their guide to take the lead. The distance to the Oto village is about twenty-five miles ; on the journey over the prairies, they espied an object at a distance, which was mistaken for a man, standing upon an eminence. The Indians immediately halted, when Heroch- she addressed them, with the assurance that they must put their trust in the Master of life, and in their leader ; and observed that, having journeyed thus far on their business, they must not return until their purpose was accomplished ; that if it was their lot to die, no event could save them ; " we have set-out, my braves,"* said he, " to eat of the Otoes' victuals, and we must do so or die ;" the party then pro- ceeded onward. The Indians are always very cautious when approaching an enemy's village, on any occasion, and this party well knew that their enterprize was full of danger. In a short time they were again brought to a halt, by the appearance of a considerable number of men and horses, that were advancing towards them. After some consultation and reconnoitering, they sat down upon the ground, and light- ing the peace pipe or calumet, Herochshe directed the stem of it towards the objects of their suspicion, saying, " smoke friend or foe j" he then directed it towards the Oto village, towards the white people, towards heaven, and the earth, successively. The strangers, however, proved to be drovers, with cattle for the troops, on their way to Council Bluff. ■* When on a war excursion, or a pacific mission, the Indians always ad- dress their companions in this manner; " My companion, my brave. My brother, my brave." 312 Expedition to the In consequence of being thus detained, it was late in the afternoon when the party arrived at the Platte river, and as they had still eight miles to travel, and it was indispensable to their safety that they should reach the village before dark, Mr. Dougherty urged his horse rapidly forwards. The In- dians, who were all on foot, ran the whole distance, halting but twice, in order to cross the Elk Horn and Platte rivers, although one of them was upwards of sixty years of age, and three of the others were much advanced in years. As they drew near the Oto village, they were discovered by some boys who were collecting their horses together for the night, and who, in a telegraphic manner, communicated intelligence of their approach, to the people of the village, by throwing their robes into the air. The party was soon surrounded by the inhabitants, who rushed towards them, riding and running with the greatest impetuosity. The greatest confusion reigned for some time, the Otoes shouting, hallooing, and screaming, whilst their Konza visitors lamented aloud. Shaumonekusse soon arrived, and restored a degree of order, when, the business of the mission being made known in a few words, the Konzas were taken up, behind some of the horsemen, and conveyed as rapidly as possible to the lodge of Shongotongo, lest personal violence should be offered them on the way. They did not, however, escape the audible maledictions of the squaws as they passed, but were stigmatized as wrinkled faced old men, with hairy chins, &c, ugly faces, and flat noses. After running this species of gauntlet, they were quietly seated in the lodge, where they were sure of protection. A squaw, however, whose husband had been recently killed by the Konzas, rushed into the lodge, with the intention of seek- ing vengeance by killing one of the ambassadors on the spot. She stood suddenly before Herochshe, and seemed a very demon of fury. She caught his eye, and at the instant, with all her strength, she aimed a blow at his breast with a large Rocky Mountains. 313 knife, which was firmly grasped in her right hand, and which she seemed confident of sheathing in his heart. At that truly hopeless moment, the countenance of the warrior remained unchanged, and even exhibited no emotion whatever ; and when the knife approached its destination, with the swiftness of lightning, his eye stood firm, nor were its lids seen to quiver ; so far from recoiling, or raising his arm to avert the blow, that he even rather protruded his breast to meet that death, which seemed inevitable, and which was only averted by the sudden interposition of the arm of one of her nation, that received the weapon to its very bone. Thus foiled in her attempt, the squaw was gently led out of the lodge, and no one offered her violence, or even harsh reproof. No further notice was taken of this transaction by either party. Food was then, as usual, placed before the strangers, and soon after a warrior entered with a pipe, which he held whilst Herochshe smoked, saying in a loud voice, "• you tell us that you wish for peace, I say, I will give you a horse, let us see which will be the liar, you or I." The horse was presented to him. The evening, and much of the night was passed in friendly conversation respecting the events of the five years' war which they had waged with each other. On the following morning the Konzas were called to par- take of the hospitality of different lodges, whilst the principal men of the village were assembled in council, to deliberate upon the subject of concluding a peace. At noon the joint and grand council was held in the Cre- nier's lodge. The Otoes, Missouries, and Ioways took their seats around the apartment, with the Konzas in the centre- Herochshe, whose business it was first to speak, holiing the bowl of the calumet in his hand, remained immoveable for the space of three-foui ihs of an hour, when he arose, pointed the stem of the calumet towards each of the three nations vol. l. 40 314 Expedition to the successively, then towards heaven, and the earth, after which he stretched out his arm, with the palm of the hand towards the members of the council, moving round with his body so as to present the palm towards each of the members in succession. He then proceeded to shake each individual by the hand, after which he returned to his place, and renewed the motion of the hand as before. Having performed all these introductory formalities, he stood firm and erect, though perfectly easy and unconstrain- ed, and with a bold expression of countenance, loud voice, and emphatical gesticulation, he thus addressed the council. " Fathers, brothers, chiefs, warriors, and brave men. You are all great men. I am a poor obscure individual. It has, however, become my duty to inform you that the chiefs and warriors of my nation, sometime ago, held a council for the purpose of concerting measures, to terminate amicably, the cruel and unwelcome war, that has so long existed between us, and chose me, all insignificant as I am, to bring to you this pipe which I hold in my hand. I have visited your village, that we might all smoke from the same pipe, and eat from the same bowl, with the same spoon, in token of our future union in friendship. " On approaching your village, my friends and relatives, I thought I had not long to live. I expected that you would kill me, and these poor men who have followed me. But I received encouragement from the reflection, that if it should be my fate to die to day, I would not have to die to-morrow, and I relied firmly upon the Master of Life. " Nor was this anticipation of death unwarranted by pre- cedent. You may recollect that five winters ago, six war- riors of my nation come to you, as I have now done, and that you killed them all, but one, who had the good for- tune to escape. This circumstance was vivid in my memory when I yesterday viewed your village in the distance; said I, those warriors who preceded me in the attempt to accomplish Rocky Mountains. 315 this desirable object, although they were greater and more brave than 1, yet were they killed by those whom they came to conciliate, and why shall not I share their fate; if so, my bones will bleach near theirs. If, on the contrary, I should escape death, I will visit the bones of my friends. The oldest of my followers here, was father-in-law to the chief of those slaugh- tered messengers; he is poor and infirm, and has followed me with difficulty; his relatives, also, are poor, and have been long lamenting the loss of the chief you killed. I hope you will have pity on him, and give him a pair of mockasins ("meaning a horse) to return home with, for he cannot walk. Two or three others of my companions, are also in want of mockasins for their journey homeward. " My friends! we wish for peace, and we are tired of war; there is a large tract of country, intervening between us, from which, as it is so constantly traversed by our respective hostile parties, we cannot either of us kill the game in security, to furnish our traders with peltries. I wish to see a large level road over that country, connecting our villages together, near which no one can conceal himself in order >to kill pas- sengers, and that our squaws may be enabled to visit from village to village in safety, and not be urged by fear, to cast off their packs, and betake themselves tc the thickets, when they see any person on the route. Our nations have made peace frequently, but a peace has not hitherto been of long duration. I hope, however, that which we shall now establish will continue one day, two days, three days, four days, five days. My friends! what I have told you is true; I was not sent here to tell you lies. That is all 1 have to say." Herochshe then lit his pipe, and presented the stem to the brother of the Crenier, Wa-sac-a-ru-ja, or He who eats raw, who had formerly been his intimate friend. The latter held the end of the stem in his hand, whilst he looked Herochshe full in the face, for a considerable space of time. At length 316 Expedition to the he most emphatically asked, u Is all true that you have spo- ken. " The other, striking himself repeatedly and forcibly upon the breast, answered with a loud voice, " Yes! It is all truth that I have spoken." Wasacaruja, without anv further hesitation, accepted the proffered pipe, and smoked, whilst Herochshe courteously held the bowl of it in his hand; the latter warrior then held it in succession to each member of the council, who respectively took a whiff or two, after which the pipe itself was presented to Wasacaruja to retain. It is impossible to convey an adequate idea of the energy, and propriety, with which this speech was delivered, or of the dignity, and self possession of the speaker. Before he commenced he hesitated and looked around upon his ene- mies, probably in order to trace in the lineaments of their countenances, the expression of their feelings towards him. He then began his address, by raising his voice at once to its full intonation, producing a truly powerful effect upon the ear, by a contrast with the deep and long continued silence which preceded it. He was at no loss for subject or for words, but proceeded right onwards to the close of his speech, like a full flowing, bold, and impetuous stream. Wasacaruja, in consequence of having first accepted of the calumet, was now regarded as responsible for the sincerity of his friend Herochshe. He therefore arose and thus ad- dressed the embassador. " My friend! I am glad to see you on such an occasion as the present, and to hear that your voice is for peace. But I can hardly believe that we can ever rest in a permanent peace. A few winters ago, when we were in friendship with each other, I visited your village, and you gave me all your people, saying, that all the Konzas were mine. But it was not long afterwards, as we hunted near your country, that you stole our horses and killed some of our people, and I cannot but believe that the same course will be again pursued. Nevertheless, I shall again repair to the same place, of which I have spoken, this autumn, for the • ( Rocky Mountains. * 317 purpose of hunting, and in the spring I will again visit your town. You observed that you were apprehensive of being killed as you approached our village, and you most probably would have been so, coming as you did, late in the evening, and without the usual formality of sending a messenger to ap- prize us of your approach, had you not been accompanied by the Big- knife, with whom you are so well acquainted. But we have now smoked together, and I hope that the peace thus established, may long continue. You say that you are in want of mockasins, we will endeavour to give you one or two, for your journey home. That is all I have to say." Herochshe then apologized for his unceremonious entrance into the village, by saying that he knew it to be customary, to send forward a runner on such an occasion, and he should have done so, but his friend the Big-knife, whom he had pre- viously consulted with that view, told him, that he had full confidence in the magnanimity of the Otoes. Thus the ceremony was concluded, and peace restored be- tween the two nations. Numerous are the anecdotes already related by various authors, which go to show, that the desire of revenge for an injury or insult, is remarkably permanent with the North American Indian. It would almost seem, that neither time nor circumstance can utterly eradicate it, and it is certain that it is not always extinguished with the life of the offended in- dividual, but that it sometimes descends as an inheritance, to his posterity. A Puncaw warrior was killed in a quarrel, over the car- cass of a bison, by a noted desperado of his own nation. The deceased left two sons, the elder of whom, in the course of a few years, became of sufficient age to hunt, and had the good fortune, in his first essay, to kill a fine bison. Whilst he was occupied in taking off the skin from his prey, he es- pied the murderer of his father approaching, who took his stand near the young hunter, and regarded him with a stern 318 * Expedition to the aspect. " Look up," said the intruder; the young man pro- ceeded with his occupation. " I say, look at me," reiterated the other, " do you know who I am? begone from this carcass, it is mine." The young hunter then raised his eyes to the countenance of him, whom he had long been taught to con- sider as his enemy, and fiercely retorted the dark malignant scowl which was concentrated there; then gathering his bow and arrows, he slowly retired a short distance, and turn- ing, perceived that the warrior had already taken possession of his prize. " Yes," he exclaimed bending his bow, " I do know you well, you are the murderer of my father, and are the cause of my being an orphan." As he spoke, he dischar- ged an arrow, which pierced the heart of his enemy, who fell dead; the victor, however, continued to feather his body with arrows, until his quiver was exhausted. He then return- ed to the village and related his story to the people, who re- joiced at the death of a common disturber of the peace, and no one was found who wished to revenge his death. Vengeance is sometimes transferred from an immediate to a remote object. The Otoes being on one occasion encamped near Mr. Lisa's trading establishment, many of their number became intoxicated with whiskey, and troublesome to the traders. But in order that the latter might not receive per- sonal injury, two warriors were appointed by the chiefs to stand guard at the door of the house, with orders to repel all drunken individuals. Having consumed all the whiskey that had been given them, they clamorously demanded more, but the trader persisted in refusing it to them. Incensed at this denial, the grand chief Shongatonga, who was himself slightly intoxicated, went into the house, and meeting one of the traders near the door, he gave him a slight push with his hand, unobserved by Hashea the Cut-nose, who was then on guard. The act, however, was perceived by an Indian who reclined against an outhouse, at a little distance, smoking his pipe. He advanced, apparently with perfect indifference, Rocky Mountains. 319 and taking up a keg, the only weapon which presented, he approached Shongatonga, and discharged it with all his Strength, full upon the head of that chief, who was knocked down senseless by the violence of the blow. The Little Soldier, a brother-in-law of Shongatonga, who was present at this assault, immediately seized his toma- hawk, and making a threat, rushed out of the house, his silver armbands and other ornaments, with which he is usu- ally profusely decorated, sounding as he passed; he halted for an instant at the door, in order to distinguish some ob- ject, on which to wreak his vengeance; espying amongst the crowd of Otoes, one from whom he had received an injury fifteen years before, which deprived him of the sight of one eye, he pursued him, and with a blow of his tomahawk brought him to the ground; this unfortunate individual, like his victor, had also lost an eye, and in this rencontre the remaining one was destroyed. Hashea, the guard, observing that the Indians were becom- ing very disorderly, drew his knife, declaring that he would kill the first individual of them he could meet with, and pur- suing the canaille, they fled in every direction. During this interval an inferior Indian entered the store, and pointing with his finger near to the face of Mr. Lisa, said in a threatening tone, " You are the cause of all this disturbance;" the latter immediately kicked him out of the house; on which the In- dian in a rage, declared he would revenge himself for an in- jury so gross. Seeking some object to destroy, he encounter- ed a sow and pigs, and appeased his rage by putting them all to death. The Little Soldier now returned and found that his relative had recovered. Order was at length restored by the mediation of Mr. Dougherty. But instances are not rare, in which an Indian is unwilling to punish an injury inflicted on himself, even when retaliation is amply in his power. As the troops were ascending the river, as usual by the aid of the cordelle, several Oto Indians 320 Expedition to the were sitting on the river bank at the establishment of the Missouri fur company, quietly smoking their pipes, and ap- parently much interested in the movements before them. One of them was accosted by a soldier who had left his cor- dclle for the purpose, with an offer to purchase the pipe he was then using; but the Indian would not part with it, say- ing, he had no other to bear him company in his hunting ex- cursions. The soldier requested permission to examine it, but as soon as the Indian put the pipe into his hands, he twisted the bowl from the handle and ran off with it. The Indian in company with one of the traders, immediately pursued the thief to his boat, and demanded the pipe; but obtaining no satisfaction, he came to Engineer Cantonment, and stated the circumstance to Major O'Fallon, who assured him that his influence should not be wanting to procure the pipe again, and to have the offender punished by a very se- vere whipping. The Indian, however, with more mercy than justice, replied that he would extremely regret the infliction of any punishment whatever upon the soldier, and he desir- ed it might not be done; all he wished for was the recovery of his property. The Omawhaws consider themselves superior, in the scale of beings, to all other animals, and appear to regard them as having been formed for their benefit- They will sometimes say, when speaking of a bad person, " he is no better than a brute." It is true that a magician tells his auditors that " a grizzly bear whispered in my ear, and gave me this medi- cine ;" but his meaning is that the Wahconda, in the shape of that animal, had communicated with him. Neither do they seem to suppose that the inferior animals accompany them to the other world, though they expect to pursue their occupation of hunting there. In their opinion, the Wahconda has been more profuse in his distribution of gifts to the white people, than to the red- skins, particularly in imparting to us the knowledge of let- Rocky Mountains. 321 ters, whereby the result of experience is so readily transmit- ted from one person to another, so as to seem like the opera- tion of some great mystic medicine. But they claim a superiority in natural intelligence, and readily perceive that they are more active, have a greater capacity for undergoing with fortitude, the many evils to which they are subject in every situation, and season, such as exposure to great heat and cold, hunger, thirst, and pain. They appear to esteem themselves more brave, more ge- nerous and hospitable to strangers than the white people ; and these beneficent virtues with them, like the mental ope- rations of faith, hope, and charity of the Christians, mark the perfect man. They regard the white people, as very deficient in one of these cardinal virtues. They have been told by Indians, who have visted our settlements, that on entering the lodge of a white man, they will be informed that he has eaten his dinner, he will not, at least, set any- food before them, and if they remain in the house, nothing is offered them until night, and even then, probably, but a stinted portion. The meanness of such demeanour they despise. If a white man, or any stranger, enters the habitation of an Indian, he is not asked if he has dined, or if he is hungry, but independently of the time of the day or night, the pot is put upon the fire, and if there is but a single pound of meat in the possession of the family, that pound is cooked and set before him, and even if he has but just arisen from a feast, he must taste of the food, or offence is given. History has recorded, with high commendation, the name of a dethroned Christian monarch, who shared his last loaf of bread with a suppliant stranger, and surely a similar act in the Indian, although it be influenced by education and custom, is entitled to respect and applause. They look upon the traffick in the necessaries of life, such as meat and maize, amongst the individuals of a nation, as VOL. i. 41 322 Expedition to the contemptible. Such commerce they consider as a very un- favourable trait in the charater of the white man ; they, however, avail themselves of it in their dealings with him, provided he wants a considerable supply of those necessaries. The food which is set before a guest, is, in every respect, considered as exclusively his own ; he may give it to whom he may think proper, either within or without the lodge ; he may even take it with him to his own lodgings, but the in- cluding vessel, must, in either case, be returned. Much more food is usually served up to a guest, than he can possibly eat, and when he has satisfied his hunger, if he return the remainder to the host, the latter thanks him for it, as if he had received a favour. So exemplary is their hospitality, that every stranger, even an enemy, is protected in the habitation of an Omaw- haw, as far as the power and influence of the owner extends; he is immediately invited to sit down, and no questions are put to him. The master of the house is evidently ill at ease, until the food is prepared for eating, he will request his squaws to expedite it, and will even stir the fire himself. When the guest has finished his meal, the pipe is handed to him to smoke, after which the conversation begins either vocally or by signs. As soon as it is known that a stranger is in the village, he is invited to various feasts, at each of which he must reciprocate the politeness of the host, by par- taking of his fare ; the stranger is not unfrequently followed from lodge to lodge by several persons, who wish to secure him as a guest in their turn. In the kindest spirit of hospitality, they are always careful to treat their guests, in the manner which they suppose will be most agreeable to them. A trader was invited to a feast, and the food being prepared, a squaw who was about to serve it up, in order to clean a bowl to contain it, began to scoop it with her curved finger. Her husband observing this usual mode of depuration, reprimanded her, saying, " I Rocky Mountains. 323 have told you that the white people do not like to see bowls cleaned in that manner, give me the vessel, and I will show you how they clean them." He then drew out one corner of his breech-clout, and substituting it for a towel, wiped the bowl thoroughly, and returned it to the squaw. The trader, as in duty bound, tasted of the contents, but he would have preferred the agency of the finger of the squaw, to that of the old breech-clout of the husband. An unknown stranger is led to the lodge of the principal chief, where the inhabitants collect to see him, and do not hesitate to gratify their curiosity, by looking steadfastly in his face. The stranger, if an Indian, appears perfectly at his ease, not seeming to notice the crowd that surrounds him, in order that he may not encounter their eyes. Alter he has eaten and smoked, he delivers his message, states his business, or tells the news. If he is seated in a small skin lodge, which contains but few persons, one of, these will re- peat his words aloud, that the crowd without may hear. They are pleased with the society of the Canadian French, but they do not appear to respect them highly, because they permit too much familiarity, and are not forward in reveng- ing an insult. The Spaniards, probably from the represen- tations of the Pawnees, who war against them, are held in but little esteem. But it is readily perceivable, as well from their own deportment as from the representations of the French, that they respect the character of the Americans (citizens of the United states) above that of any other nation, because, they are pleased to say, we are the bravest of the white people. Previously to the late war between the Uni- ted States and Great Britain, the British are said to have been deemed most valorous. But, say they, the Ioways have informed us, that, at the commencement of the war, the British promised to give the Indians who took part with them in the contest, all the territory that lies westward of a great river (the Ohioj, over which they declared they would 324 Expedition, &c. drive the Americans. Their subsequent inability to comply with this promise, together with an indistinct idea of some of the conflicts, both by land and water, on our Canadian frontier, lead them to suppose that the Americans conquered in that war, and that they are now the most powerful of the nations of the earth. Like the ancients the Indians have no rhymes in their poetry. They imitate the sounds of the voice of various ani- mals, and of some, with so much success, as to deceive even such persons as are familiar with the animals thus imitated. This mimicry extends to the voices of the bear, bison, deer, wolves, prairie dog, turkey, owl, &c, together with those of some smaller birds, the notes of which are simple. But in these imitations we knew of no individual, whose art enabled him to execute so great a variety of notes, and with so much melody, as we have heard from civilized performers, who have publicly exhibited their talents in this way, in our cities. An Indian at his temporary night encampment, hearing the unexpected cry of an owl, wolf, &c, is generally sus- picious of its proceeding from a human enemy, who is thus endeavouring to lull him into fancied security ; such sounds being often made by war parties, on their nocturnal approach to their victims, to induce a belief that the animals around them are undisturbed. They also imitate the motions of different animals, play- fully, sometimes grotesquely, in their dances. CHAPTER XV. Tribes and Bands — Fabulous Legends — Wit — Ninnegahe or mixed tobacco—Dances — Otoes — Migrations — Language. The Omawhaw nation is divided into two principal sec- tions or tribes, which are distinguished by the names Hon- ga-sha-no and Ish-ta- sun-da; the latter means Gray Eyes. The first mentioned tribe, is sub-divided into eight bands, viz: 1. Wase-ish-ta. This band is interdicted from eating the flesh of male deer or male elk, in consequence of having their great medicine, which is a large shell, enveloped in the prepared skin of those animals. The chief of this band is the Big-Elk, Ongpatungah; and it is more powerful and numerous in individuals, than either of the others. The shell, which is regarded as an object of great sanctitv and superstitious reverence, by the whole nation, has been transmitted from the ancestry of this band, and its origin is unknown. A skin lodge or temple is appropriated for its pre- servation, in which a person constantly resides, charged with the care of it, and appointed its guard. It is placed upon a stand, and is never suffered to touch the earth. It is con- cealed from the sight by several envelops, which are com- posed of strands of the proper skins, plaited and joined to- gether in the form of a mat. The whole constitutes a parcel of considerable size, from which various articles are sus- pended, such as tobacco and roots of certain plants. No person dares to open all the coverings of this sacred deposit, in order to expose the shell to view. Tradition in- forms them, that curiosity induced three different persons to 326 Expedition to the examine the mysterious shell, who were immediately punish- ed for their profanation, by instant and total loss of sight. The last of these offenders, whose name is hh-ka-tappe, is still living. It was ten years since, that he attempted to un- veil the sacred shell, but like his predecessors he was visited by blindness, which still continues, and is attributed by the Indians, as well as by himself to his committing of the forbid- den act; This shell is taken with the band to all the national hunts, and is transported by means of a hoppas on the back of a man. Previously to undertaking a national expedition against an enemy, the sacred shell is consulted as an oracle. For this purpose, the magi of the band seat themselves around the great medicine lodge, the lower part of which is then thrown up like curtains, and the exterior envelop is carefully remov- ed from the mysterious parcel, that the shell may receive air. A portion of the tobacco, consecrated by being long suspend- ed to the skin mats, or coverings of the shell, is now taken and distributed to the magi, who fill their pipes with it, to smoke to the great medicine. Daring this ceremony, an in- dividual occasionally inclines his head forward, and listens at- tentively to catch some sound which he expects to issue from the shell. At length some one imagines that he hears a sound like that of a forced exspiration of air from the lungs, or like the noise made by the report of a gun at a great distance. This is considered as a favourable omen, and the nation prepare for the projected expediti>>n with a confidence of success. But on the contrary, should no sound be perceived, the issue of the expedition would be considered doubtful. 2. Enk-ka saba. This band will not eat red maize. They ascribe to their family the greatest antiquity, and declare that their first man emerged from the water, with an ear of red maize in his hand. The principal chief is Ishkatappe. $.,Wa-sa-ba eta-je\ or, those who do not touch bears. This band refrains from eating the flesh of bears. Rocky Mountains. 327 4. Ka-e-taje, or those who do not touch turtles or tortoises. 5. Majinga-e-ta-je, or those who do not touch any kind of bird, excepting the war eagle. 6. Hun-guh. This band does not eat white cranes, as the down of that bird is their medicine. 7. Kon-za. This band must not touch the green clay, or even verdigris, both of which are used as pigments by the other bands, for ornamenting their persons. 8. Ta-pa-taj je. This band must not touch deers' heads, neither must they wear deer skin mockasins. Many of the individuals of this band are partially gray haired. This change of the hair which they consider as a deformity, is at- tributed to a violation of the above-mentioned laws prescrib- ed by their medicine. The second division or tribe Ishtasunday is sub-divided into five bands. 1. Ta pa-eta je. This band does not touch bison heads. 2. Mon-eka-goh-ha, or the earth-makers. Of this band was the celebrated Black-bird. They are not forbidden the use of any aliment, and are said to have originated the present mode of mourning, by rubbing the body with whitish clay. 3. Ta-.tin-da, or the bison tail. This band does not eat bison calves, in the first year of the age of that animal. 4. Inggeraje-da, or the Red dung. This name is said to have originated from the circumstance of this band having for- merly quarrelled, and separated themselves from the na- tion, until, being nearly starved they were compelled to eat the fruit of the wild cherry tree, until their excrement be- came red. 5. Wash-a-tung. This band must not touch any of the reptilia class of animals. Each of these animals, or parts of animals, which the bands respectively are forbidden to touch or eat, is regarded as the particular mysterious medicine of the band collectively, to which it relates. 328 Expedition to the This singular, and, to us, absurd law of interdiction, is generally rigidly observed; and a violation of it, they firmly , believe, will be followed by some signal judgment, such as blindness, gray hairs, or general misfortune. Even should the forbidden food be eaten inadvertently, or but tasted through ignorance, sickness they believe would be the inev- itable consequence, not only to the unfortunate individual himself, but involving his wife and children also. The name of one of the bands of the Puncaw nation is Wa-ja-ja, corresponding to the name which the Osages ac- knowledge, which is Waw-sash-e. We have before observed, that they take great pleasure in relating and hearing the narration of fabulous legends. The following specimen will serve to exemplify their taste in this way. A bison bull, an ant, and a tortoise agreed to undertake a joint war excursion, against the village of a neighbouring na- tion. As the latter associate was a slow walker, it was mu- tually decided in council that he should set out on the jour- ney immediately, to be followed in a short time by his more active companions. The tortoise accordingly departed alone, making his way through the grass, with as much rapidity as possible. After a proper interval had elapsed, the bull also set out, and lest he should lose his fellow traveller, he con- sented to take him on his back. On their way the two cham- pions were obliged to cross a miry place, in the midst of which they overtook the tortoise, struggling, onward with the utmost labour, and apparently almost exhausted. They did not fail, as they passed gaily by the sluggish reptile, to ex- press their surprise at his unusually tardy movements, and at the circumstance of his being, apparently almost subdued, by the first obstacle that presented itself. The tortoise how- ever, not at all discouraged, requested them to continue their journey, and expressed his confident expectation of being able to extricate himself from the mire, without the aid Rocky Mountains, 329 which they did not seem forward in offering to him. The two companions arrived at the village of the enemy, and were so incautious in their approaches to it, as to be discov- ered by the inhabitants, who sallied out upon them, and suc- ceeded in wounding them both. The tortoise at length reached the village, and was also discovered, but had the additional misfortune of being taken prisoner. To punish him for his presumption, the enemy resolved to put him to death, in such a manner as would be most painful to him. They accordingly threatened him successively with a number of different forms of torture, such as baking in hot embers, boiling, &c, with each of which the captive artfully expressed his entire satisfaction. They finally proposed, to drown him, and this mode of punishment being so earnestly protested against by the tortoise, they determined to carry it into immediate execution. With this view, several of the enemy carried him out into a deep part of the river, and threw him in. The tortoise, thus released, and, through the ignorance of the captors of the art of torturing, abandoned to an element in which he could act freely and with much power, dived down from their view, and rising again, dragged two or three of them under water successively, and scalped them. Then rising above the surface of the water, he exhibited the scalps triumphantly to the enemy, who stood in crowds upon the bank of the river unable to injure him. Content with his fortunate achievement, the tortoise now journeyed homeward, and on arriving at his lodge, he found there the bull and ant both in bed, groaning piteously with their wounds. Upon the reality of such stories many of the auditors seem to rely with implicit faith, particularly as their occurrence is referred to the chronology of former times, by such a prefa- tory notice as " once upon a time." The narrator proceeds with a degree of gravity of feature suitable to the nature of vol. i. 42 330 Expedition to the the events of his story, and notes a variety of little circum- stances in detail, which contribute much to give the whole an air of truth to his auditors, who listen with an undivided attention, uttering occasionally an interjection, as their feel- ings are excited. That the inferior animals did, in ancient times, march to battle with simultaneous regularity, that they conversed in- telligibly, and performed all the different actions of men, many of them appear to admit, with as much faith as many equally absurd doctrines are believed in Christendom. But these qualities are supposed to be no longer inherent, and if an animal shoulu now speak with the voice of man, it is either the effect of the immediate inspiration of the Wahcon- da, or the apparent animal is no other than the Wahconda himself incarnate. The Indians sometimes indulge in pleasantry in their con- versation, and Shaumonekusse seemed to be eminently witty, a quality strongly indicated by his well marked features of countenance. Their wit, however, is generally obscene, par- ticularly when in conversation with the squaws. Washingguhsahba conversing familiarly with a Frenchman, who had long resided in the Omawhaw village, observed, that the white people being in the habit of reading books, with the desire of acquiring knowledge, probably knew the "cause of the difference of colour which exists between them- selves and the Indian ; he therefore requested information from the Frenchman on this subject. The latter, assuming an air of great gravity, assured him that the cause was very well known, and was no other than that the Indian was form- ed of red horse-dung. The chief, with every appearance of candour, which, however, he did not feel, instantly placed his hand on the arm of his companion, and replied that this observation was a convincing proof of the great knowledge of the white people, and that they were perfectly familiar with the early operations of the Master of Life. He had no Rocky Mountains. 331 doubt, he said, that they were equally well informed as to the matter out of which they were themselves formed, but if he, a poor ignorant Indian, with no knowledge but his own, might venture to give his opinion, he would say, that they were formed of the excrement of the dog, baked white in the prairie. They sometimes employ an indirect method of communi- cating information, and of explaining some particular acts of their own, which may have been erroneously construed by others. Several Omawhaws, accompanied by a Frenchman, one day passed our cantonment, on their way to the trading house with a considerable quantity of jerked meat. On their return they visited us ; when one of them, who amused him- self by turning over the leaves of a book in search of pic- tures, being asked by a squaw, in a jocular manner, what the book said, replied, " It tells me, that when we were taking our meat to the trading house, we wished to present some fcf it to white people on the way, but that the Frenchman would not permit us to do so." This remark explained the reason of their having offered us no meat. An Indian, observing that one of our men when cutting- wood, uttered the interjection hah! at each blow with the axe, smiled and asked if it assisted him, or added force to the blow. The Kinnecanick, or as the Omawhaws call it Nimiegahe^ mixed or made tobacco, which they use for smoking in their pipes, is composed partly of tobacco and partly of the leaves of the Sumack (rhus glabrum) ; but many prefer to the latter ingredient, the inner bark of the red willow ( Cornus sericea ;) and when neither of the two latter can be obtained the inner bark of the arrow wood (viburnum) is substituted for them. These two ingredients are well dried over the fire, and com- minuted together, by friction between the hands. Their pipes are neatly made of the red indurated clay, 332 Expedition to the which thejr procure from the red pipestone branch of the Sioux river. The mass is readily cut with a common knife. They frequently eject the smoke through the nostrils, and often inhale it into the lungs, from which it is gradually ejected again as they converse, or in exspiration. An Omawhaw, after an eructation of wind from the stom- ach, is often heard to say " How-wa-ne ta," thank you ani- mal ; which they explain by saying, that some animal has presented itself to the hunter. The exclamation, however, has but an obscure meaning, and may be compared, as some- what similar, to the " God bless you" of the French, after the convulsion of sneezing. They indulge much in the pleasures of dancing, and their dances are of various denominations, of which the following may be particularized. The calumet dance, nin-ne-ba-wa-wong; is a very favourite dance. It is usually performed by two individuals, in honour, and in the presence, of some one of their own, or of a neigh- bouring nation, with the expectation of receiving presents in return. A person who intends to perform this dance, sends a messenger, bearing a small skin containing tobacco to fill a pipe, to the individual whom he intends to honour. If the proposed compliment should not be acceptable, it is refused in the most courteous manner, with excuses based upon po- verty, and with many thanks for the honour intended. If, on the contrary, the tobacco should be accepted and smoked, the act shows that the visit also will be acceptable, and a time is fixed for the performance of the ceremony. At the appointed time the dancers, with two selected companions, repair to the place of their destination, and are invited into the lodge of the person whom they addressed. After a short time, the calumet is placed upon a forked support, which is driven into the soil in the back part of the lodge. Notice is then given to the bearer of the calumet, respecting the time when it will be convenient for the dance to take place. Rochy Mountains. 333 The bearer of the calumet is now considered as the father, and addresses the individual whom he is about to honour, by the title of son, presenting him with some valuable arti- cles, such as a gun, kettle, blankets, and clothing, and orna- ments for his youngest child, who is destined to represent the father or the adopted son, at the ensuing ceremony. At sun- set the calumet is taken from the forked stick, or support, enveloped like an infant in swaddling clothes, and placed, carefully in a bed, prepared for its reception; a lulla- by is then sung, accompanied by the music of the rattle, for its quiet repose. On the following morning it is awakened by a song, with the same music, and again consigned to its fork- ed support. The appointed day having arrived, a space of sufficient diameter is enclosed by a skreen of skins for the dance, and a post is fixed in the earth, near the entrance to the area. Around this area the principal men of the nation seat themselves; the adopted son leads in his youthful repre- sentative; and the two dancers, decorated with paint, and entirely destitute of clothing with the exception of the breech- cloth, commence the dance. They are each provided with a decorated calumet stem, and a rattle of dried skin, or a gourd, containing pebbles, with which to keep time to the music of the gong, and to the vocal chaunting of the musicians of the vil- lage. They dance in the ordinary manner of the Indians, and pass backwards and forwards between the entrance and back part of the area, endeavouring to exhibit as much agility as possible in their movements, throwing themselves into a great variety of attitudes imitative of the actions of the wai eagle, preserving at the same time a constant waving motion with the calumet in the left hand, and agitating the gourd in the right, more or less vehemently, agreeably to the music. Warriors and braves will now bring forward presents of horses, guns, &c. The bridle of the horse is attached to the pose by the donor, who receives the thanks of an old crier, stationed there to perform that duty. The music now ceases 334 Expedition to the whilst the donor strikes the post, and recounts his martial deeds, and boasts of the presents- which he has made at dif- ferent times on similar occasions. Sometimes during the ce- remony a warrior will take the gong from the performer, and strike upon it as many times as he has achieved brave and generous actions; he then sets it down, and no one must dare to touch it, but such as can strike upon it more fre- quently than the first; if this is done the gong is returned to the performer. The calumet dance sometimes continues two or three days, but each night the calumet is consigned to its repose in the bed, with the same ceremonies as those of the first night. When all the presents have been made, which the dancers have reason to expect, they depart immediately with them, to their own nation or lodge. Instead of striking the post, the donors, sometimes, strike lightly upon the persons of the dancers themselves. The presents sometimes made at these dances, are very considerable. Ongpatunga, once danced the calumet to Tar- rarecawaho, the grand Pawnee chief, and received from him between eighty and ninety horses. The Pawnees are indeed distinguished, both for their liberality and dexterity at this ceremony. They gave one hundred and forty horses last autumn, to the Otoes, who performed this dance at their vil- lage. A party of Pawnees once danced at the Omawhaw vil- lage, and gave so much satisfaction to many individuals of this nation, as to receive extraordinary presents from them. On this occasion, one person, in the warmth of his feelings, brought forth his child, and presented it to them, as the most precious gift in his power to bestow. The Pawnees accept- ed this gift, but on their departure, they returned the child to its parent, accompanied by the present of a fine horse, up- on which it was mounted. The dance of discovering the enemy. This dance is some- times performed in honour of strangers; at other times chiefs Rocky Mountains. 335 are invited by the warriors, who wish to exhibit their gene- rosity in presenting them with horses, and to detail their own warlike feats, in the ceremony of striking the post. The chiefs, on this occasion, seat themselves in a circle, on the outside of which the warriors are also seated in a ring or circle, concentric, with that of the chiefs. These arrangements being completed, the music strikes up, and a warrior advances, who takes a war-club and crow, provided for the purpose, the latter of which he belts around his. waist. He then dances with a slow shuffling motion, around the exterior circle, exhibiting at the same time, a pantomimic representation of his combats with the enemy. By and by the music beats a quicker time, and calls for corresponding movements on the part of the dancer, until at length both cease simultaneously. The warrior then advances to the post which he strikes with his club, and proceeds to detail one of his deeds of war. This done, the music recals him to the dance, and after a short time again ceases, that he may continue his chivalric history. This alternate dance and recitation continues until the tale of the warrior is told, when he resigns his crow and war- club to another, who continues the amusement in like man- ner. Most of the dancers, present horses to the chiefs, after the performing of their respective parts, and it is generally the case, that each chief invited, is rewarded with one of those animals in return for the honour of his attendance. The bear dance, Mot-chu-wat-che. This is a medicine dance, not distinguished by any very remarkable traits. The dancers, however, imitate the motions of the bear; and songs, in which there are many words, are sung. The beggar dance. This has been already described, in our account of the visit of the Otoes at our cantonment last autumn. This is probably the dance mentioned by Carver on page 158 of his work, the performance of which, on his land- ing near Lake Pepin, by a party of Chippeways, was the cause of much alarm to his party. 336 Expedition to the The bison dance, Ta-nuguh-roat-che. The performers in this dance are painted black, and are naked from the waist upward, with the exception of the head-dress, which is com- posed of the skin of the head of a bison, the face of which is cut off and rejected, so adapted to the top of their head as to resemble a cap, the horns projecting forward in such a man- ner as to correspond with their appearance when on the head of the bison. Attached to this head-dress, is a strip of the skin from the back of the bison, which hangs down behind to the buttocks like a tail. In the evolutions of the dance, the\ imitate the actions of the bison. Amongst the Minnetarees is a ceremony called the corn dance, which, however, has but little claim to the title of a dance. Notice being given of this ceremony, by the village criers, the squaws repair to the medicine lodge, in which the magi are seated, performing their incantations, carrying with them a portion of each kind of seed which they respectively intend to plant the ensuing season ; as an ear of maize, some pumpkin, watermelon, or tobacco seed. These are attached to the end of small sticks, which are stuck in the ground so as to form a right line in front of the magi. The squaws then strip themselves entirely of their garments, and take their seats before the spectators. The magi then throw themselves into a violent agitation, singing, leaping about, pointing to the sky, the earth, the sun, and the north star successively. After these paroxysms have subsided, the squaws arise, and each one taking her respective sticks, holds> them up, with extended arms. One of the magi, being provided with a large bunch of a species of bitter herb, dips it in a vessel of water, and sprinkles copiously the seeds and persons of the squaws, with much grotesque gesticulation. This concludes the ceremony, when the seeds are supposed to be fertilized, and to be ca- pable of communicating their fertility to any quantity of their kind. Rocky Mountains. 337 The women then assume their clothing, and return home, being careful to deposit the fertilized seed with their stock, after which they may proceed to planting as soon as they please. We were informed that on some particular occasion, a large inclosure was constructed in the village of the Minne* tarees, which was covered with jerked meat, instead of skins. The distinguished warriors who were concerned in the ce- remony about to take place, deputed some of their party to summons a certain number of the handsomest young married squaws of the village, who immediately repaired to the meat covered lodge, with the consent of their husbands. The squaws were then disrobed in the midst of a considerable number of the bravest of the Minnetaree warriors, and after the conclusion of some ceremonies a brave entered, leading by the halter a very fine horse. He selected a squaw, whose beauty struck his fancy, and advancing to her, he laid the cord of the halter in her hand. She accepted the present, and immediately admitted him to her favour. Other warriors appeared in succession, leading horses, all of which were very readily disposed of in the same manner. This ceremony occurred during the day, and in the presence of the whole assembly. In the same nation a singular night dance is, it is said, sometimes held. During this amusement an opportunity is given to the squaws to select their favourites. A squaw, as she dances, will advance to a person with whom she is cap- tivated, either for his personal attractions, or for his renown in arms, she taps him on the shoulder, and immediately runs out of the lodge, and betakes herself to the bushes, followed by the favourite. But if it should happen, that he has a par- ticular preference for another, from whom he expects the same favour, or if he is restrained by a vow, or is already satiated with indulgence, he politely declines her offer, by placing his hand in her bosom. On which they return to the vol. i. 43 338 Expedition to the assembly and rejoin the dance. It is worthy of remark that in the language of the Omawhaws the word watche applies applies equally to the amusement of dancing, and to sexual intercourse ; but to avoid being misunderstood in speaking of the former they sometimes add the word gaha, to make. What length of time the Omawhaws have resided on the Missouri is unknown, but it seems highly probable that they were not there when Mr. Bourgmont performed his journey to the Padoucas, in the year 1724, as he makes no mention whatever of them. It would seem, indeed, that they had separated from the great migrating nation, that we shall fur- ther notice below, on or near the. Mississippi, and that they had since passed slowly across the country, or perhaps up the St. Peters, until they finally struck the Missouri at the mouth of the Sioux river. This is rendered highly probable by the circumstance of Carver having met with them on the St. Peters in the year 1766, associated with the Shienne and others, all of whom he reperesents as bands of the Naudow- essie nation. The Oto nation of Indians is distinguished by the name of Wah-toh-ta-na. The permanent village of this nation is composed of large dirt lodges, similar to those of the Konzas and Omawhaws, and is situate on the left bank of the river Platte, or Nebreska, about forty miles above its confluence with the Missouri. Although this nation distinguish them- selves by the name Wahtohtata, yet when questioned res- pecting the signification of the word, they say it ought to be pronounced Wah-toh-ta-na, or Wa-do-tan, which means those who will copulate. This singular designation, which they have adopted, was applied to the nation in consequence of their chief, at the period of their separation from the Missouries on the Mississippi, having carried off a squaw from that nation. The nation is, however, only known to the white people by the name Oto, Otto, or Othouez. It thus appears, that their name has been adopted subse- Rocky Mountains. 339 quenfly to the migration and partition of the great nation, of which they were formerly but a band. This great nation, they say, originally resided somewhere to the northward of the great lakes, and on their emigration southwardly, after performing a considerable journey, a large band of them, called Ho-ro-ge, or Fish Eaters, from their fondness of fish, separated from the main body, and established jheir resi- dence on the margin of a lake. This band is now known by the name of VVinnebagoe. During the journey of the great nation, another band sepa- rated from them on the Mississippi, and received the name of Pa-ho-ja, or Gray Snow, which they still retain; but are known to the white people by the name of Ioways, or Ai- aouez. They have, however, been distinguished by the name of Pierced-noses, as this was erroneously believed to be the meaning of the word Pahoja ; and it will be confessed that the distinction is somewhat nice, when we learn that the true word for pierced nose is pa-oja. Another band seceded from the migrating nation, and es- tablished a village at the mouth of the Missouri river; from which circumstance they received the name of Ne-o-ta-cha or Ne-o-ge-he, signifying those who build a town at the en- trance of a river; they have been known to us only by the name of Missouries. The Otos also separated from the nation on the Mississip- pi, and pursuing their journey across the country from that river, struck the Missouri near the confluence of the Great Nemawhaw. Here the Otoes remained a considerable time for the purpose of hunting; and it seems probable, from the name of the creek, that they also reared maize and cultivated the soil after their rude manner, as the word Nemawhaw, in their language, signifies water of cultivation; ne, water, andmaha, planting or cultivating. From this locality the Otoes proceed- ed up the river to (he Platte, and after hunting for some time near its confluence, they moved still further up the 340 Expedition to the Missouri, and established a village on its bank, about lour teen miles below Council Bluff. In this position they re- mained several years; during which time a band of the Ioways took up their residence about one year, on the bank of the river nearly opposite to them, and within about thirty miles of the present site of the Omawhaw village. The Otoes sub- sequently removed to the river Platte, about twenty miles above their present village, but finding the latter situation to be a more eligible one, they permanently established them- selves there, and have already occupied it nearly a half a century. The Ioways, after having resided in a village on the lower part of the Missouri a considerable space of time, were re- joined by the band above mentioned, when they abandoned their position, and returned to the waters of the Mississippi and erected a village on the Moyene, where it still remains. The Missouries in process of time abandoned their vil- lage near the mouth of the river Missouri, and gradually moving up the river, at length constructed a town on the left bank, near the entrance of Grand river. In this position they were found by the French, who built a fort on an island of the Missouri, in their immediate vicinity, about the be- ginning of the last century. The garrison of this fort was entirely destroyed, according to Du Pratz, soon after its commander, the enterprizing Bourgmont, left it. The author whom we have just mentioned further informs us respecting this nation, that " the Spaniards, as well as our other neighbours, being continually jealous of our superiori- ty over them, formed a design of establishing themselves among the Missouries, about forty leagues from the Illinois in order to limit our boundaries westward- They judged it necessary for the security of their colony, entirely to cut off the Missouries, and for that purpose they courted the friend- ship of the Osages, whose assistance they thought would be of service to them in the enterprise, and who were generally Rocky Mountains. 341 at enmity with the Missouries. A company of Spaniards, men, women, and soldiers, accordingly set out from Santa Fe, having a Dominican for their chaplain, and an engi- neer for their guide and commander. The caravan was fur- nished with horses, and all other kinds of beasts necessary ; for it is one of their prudent maxims, to send off all those things together. By a fatal mistake the Spaniards arrived first among the Missouries, whom they mistook for the Osages, and imprudently discovering their hostile intentions, they were themselves surprised and cut off, by those whom they intended for destruction. The Missouries sometime af- terwards dressed themselves with the ornaments of the cha- pel; and carried them in a kind of triumphant procession to the French commandant among the Illinois." A terrible but just revenge! The Missouries continued to dwell in the same locality, until, about twenty years since, they were conquer- ed and dispersed, by a combination of the Sauks, Foxes, and some other Indians, when they united their destiny with other friendly nations. Five or six lodges joined the Osa- ges; two or three took refuge with the Konzas; and the chief part of the remainder amalgamated with the Oto nation, with whom they still reside. Thus connected, their manners, ha- bits and language, being very closely allied, the Otoes and Missouries may be considered as one nation. They are pro- bably the bravest of the native inhabitants of the Missouri, and there are but few males who have arrived at the age of maturity, that have not fleshed their arms in battle. Indeed, many of them can strike upon individuals of almost all the neighbouring nations, not excepting the distant Indians of Mexico, and the Spaniards themselves. In vain should we seek among the nations of the Missouri, for an individual whose daring deeds have been more nume- rous, than those of the Little Soldier^ or for more brave and generous combatants than Shaumonekusse, Hashea, Nahoje- aingya, and Wasacaruja. It is not fear, but probably a ge- 342 Expedition to the nerous forbearance that has restrained them from killing more than two white men, within the memory of the present generation. Of these one, a Frenchman, was killed by A-kir- a-ba during the Spanish government; and the other, a Span- iard, by Shaumonekusse, more recently, at the sources of the Arkansa, an act, which, although attended by an extraordi- nary display of bravery, yet it was declared by this young warrior, to be the only martial act of his life that he was ashamed of. The hunting grounds of the Oto nation, extend from the Little Platte up to the Boyer creek, on the north side of the Missouri, and from Independence creek to about forty miles above the Platte, on the south side of that river. They hunt the bison, between the Platte and the sources of the Konza rivers. A few years since, their numbers were very much dimin- ished by the small pox. The language of the Otoes, Missouries, and Ioways, al- though the same, is somewhat differently pronounced, by these respective nations or tribes. The dialect of the Ioways is more closely allied to that of the Oto, than to the Missouri dialect; the former differs chiefly in being pronounced more sharply, as in the word In-ta-ra, friend \ which in the Oto is In-ta-ro. The Missouri dialect differs in being more nasal; the children, however, of this nation, being, from their resi- dence among the Otoes, in constant habits of association with the Oto children, are gradually assuming the pronun- ciation of that nation. Originally the same, and still very similar to the above dialects, are those of the Osages, Konzas, Omawhaws, and Puncaws, the individuals of each of which nations can make themselves reciprocally understood, after a very little prac- tice. The two latter dialects are so very closely allied, as not to be distinguishable from each cither, by persons who are not very critically acquainted with the language. The Rocky Mountains. 343 Omawhaw and Puncaw pronunciation, is more guttural than that of the two former, of which, particularly the Osage, the pronunciation is more brief and vivid. The free and independent spirit of the Indian is carried even into their language, and may be recognized there, by- its absolute destitution of a single word, drawn from the language of a civilized people. Thus, notwithstanding their constant familiarity with certain traders, and with various articles of the manufacture of the white people, they uni- versally and in every instance reject the names which they originally hear for such men and things, and apply others, which they readily invent. CHAPTER XVI. Boyer^s Creek — Visit to the Pawnees — Human sacrifices — Anecdote of Petalesharoo—- Appendix . On the 12th Lieutenant Graham, Lieutenant Talcott of Camp Missouri, Mr. Seymour, and I, accompanied by a soldier, departed in our small row boat, for the purpose of ascending Boyer Creek, and ascertaining the point at which that stream discharges from the Bluffs. The rapidity of the Missouri current soon transported us to the mouth of the creek, and we encamped, after ascending it the distance of a few miles. From this point Messrs. Graham and Tal- cott crossed the bottom lands, to the base of the bluffs, and by trigonometrical observation, ascertained the altitude of the highest point to be three hundred and fifty feet above low water mark of the Missouri. The next day we continued our voyage, but about noon perceiving that some necessaries had inadvertently been omitted in our loading, we despatch- ed the soldier to the cantonment to procure them. The following morning we were awakened by the loud cries of the sandhill crane, performing evolutions in the air, high over their feeding grounds. This stately bird is known to authors by the name of grus canadensis. It is mentioned by the enterprizing and excellent traveller Bartram in his work, and is very distinct from the grus americanus, of authors, or hooping crane, although many persons have supposed it to be no other, than the young of that gigantic species. The sandhill crane, in the spring of the year, removes the surface Rocky Mountains. 345 of the soil by scratching with its feet, in search of the radi- cal tubers of the pea vine, which seem to afford them a very- palatable food. Near our present encampment, and in many other situations bordering on streams of water, where this plant vegetates in the greatest profusion, we have frequently had occasion to observe that the surface of the soil was re- moved in small and irregular patches, by the industry of this bird in seeking for its favourite food. This crane is a social bird, sometimes assembling together in considerable flocks. They were now in great numbers, soaring aloft in the air, flying with an irregular kind of gy- ratory motion, each individual describing a large circle in the air independently of his associates, and uttering loud, dissonant, and repeated cries. They sometimes continue thus to wing their flight upwards, gradually receding from the earth, until they become mere specks upon the sight, and finally altogether disappear, leaving only the discordant mu- sic of their concert, to fall faintly upon the ear. Mosquitoes have already made their appearance in small numbers. April 14th. The messenger returned and the voyage was continued. The creek was found to be very tortuous, and the navigation much impeded by fallen trees, extending in various directions across the stream, obliging us to resort to the use of the axe in many places, to obtain a passage for our boat. In the evening we arrived at the bluffs. The water had now become so shallow as not to admit of our further passage with the boat, which was left under the care of our man, and having made the necessary observations for ascertaining the latitude, on the following day we took our blankets on our backs, and proceeded on foot, intending to travel one day's journey further along the stream. At the distance of about five miles, the high grounds closely bound- ed the creek, and the valley, which below is extensive and fertile, disappears. We saw numbers of the smaller species vol. I. 44 346 Expedition to the of rattle snake, which had, no doubt, but lately left their winter dwelling. The creek, as observed this afternoon, although still about thirty feet wide is, in some places, not more than six inches deep, whilst in other parts it is two or three feet. As we went forward, the timber gradually de- creased in quantity, until finally it was interrupted into re- mote small assemblages of trees, under one of which we spread our blankets, after a sultry day's march, over a to- lerably fertile country. Numbers of ant hills are dispersed over the soil, and in many places are abundant ; we could not choose but admire the assiduous industry of the little in- habitants, who were now engaged in repairing the structures for the approaching season of activity. The autumnal con- flagration, which had comprehended within its destructive range almost the whole surface of the country, had consumed a large portion of the fragments of wood, which, intermixed with earth, forms the exterior wall of their mounds ; these the emmets were now unremittingly employed in replacing, with half burned sticks, which were sought for in every di- rection. Verdure was appearing in favourable situations, and the ash was in full bloom, which tree, associated with the elm and willow, comprehends the chief portion of the few trees that were here seen. In the night we were awak- ened by a heavy fall of rain, and our attention was directed to personal safety by tremendous thunder and lightning, di- rectly in the zenith, and we abandoned our guns and blan- kets to take refuge in the open prairie. This situation was peculiarly uncomfortable ; we had been languid and oppress- ed by the heat of the sun during the afternoon's walk, and we were now shivering under the effects of cold and mois- ture. In the intervals we rekindled our fire, and became alternately, partially dry, and wet, as the fall of rain inter- mitted and recurred. At the dawn of day we retraced our path, and found the tent pleasantly situate in an embowered spot, where three Rocky Mountains. 347 rattle snakes had been killed by the soldier in pitching it. On the following day we descended the creek. 18th. The creek was rapidly subsiding, so that a bridge constructed by the Omawhaws, which we had passed almost unobserved, was now two feet above the surface of the water^ and rendered it necessary to unload the boat in order to drag her over. This structure is very simple ; a double series of stout forked pieces of wood are driven into the bottom of the creek, upon these, poles are laid transversely, crossed by numerous smaller pieces, which form a support for dried grass, covered by a proper quantity of earth. What necessity gave rise to the building of this bridge we know not, and we are inclined to believe that bridge building, is a rare effort in our aboriginal architecture. On the 20th Major OlFallon set out on a visit to the Paw- nee villages, accompanied by Captain Riley, Adjutant Pent- land, Lieutenants Talcott and Graham, Mr. Dougherty and myself, together with a guard of twenty-seven men, and with seventeen pack and riding horses. In recording the events of this journey it would be superfluous to note the appear- ance of the country over which we passed, or to describe the magnitude and direction of the water courses that intersect the route, as this will be detailed in another part of the work ; our attention in the few following pages, will be more par- ticularly directed to our transactions and interviews with the natives. In the course of the two following days we met with several Oto and Omawhaw Indians, who were occupied with hunting and trapping. On the 23d we halted a short time with a party of the latter nation, headed by a man of much note, known to the traders by the name of the Volew\ the relics of whose former village, we had previously observed on Shell creek. Near this stream of water we examined a great excavation in the brow of a bluff, to which the name of Pawnee Medicine has been applied, in consequence of its being an object of superstitious reverence to the people of 348 Expedition to the that nation. It is evidently an artificial work, and the pro- duct of much labour, being about two hundred feet long, one hundred and thirty feet wide, and thirty deep. The origin and object of this effort of savage labour is involved in mys- tery, and the Pawnees cannot, at this day, give any rational history of it ; the only advantage which we can suppose people to have derived from such a work, is security from the attack of a powerful enemy. An entire nation may have here defied the efforts of some allied army of an extensive coalition. We are inclined to conjecture, that the nation that has left us this monument of a primitive military art, is no other than the Rickarees, who now reside on the banks of the Missouri, between the Sioux ('Dacota) and Mandan na- tions, and who are, beyond a doubt, a branch of the Pawnee stock, and probably are more immediately descended from that branch of it, now known as Pawnee Loups. We are led to this conjecture, however, only from the fact, that ruins of their former village, apparently coeval with the excava- tion, exist within two miles of Beaver creek. In this vicinity several antelopes (Xervicapra americana, Ord) were seen by the party, but they were so shy and swift, that it was not possible to kill one of them. On the succeeding day, a large body of Indians was ob- served in the distance moving towards us, which proved to be the principal portion of the Oto nation, who were now returning to their own village, from a trading visit to the Pawnees. We here met with numerous acquaintances, who saluted us cordially, although they appeared somewhat jealous of our visit to the Pawnees. The Little Soldier rode up, with great animation, and communicated to some of us, by means of signs, an intimation that a glorious battle had been fought by a party of Pawnee Loups, in which the great- er part of them had been killed, and nearly all of the remain- der wounded. We resumed our journey, and at the distance of two or Rocky Mountains. 349 three miles observed numerous horses grazing over the plain, squaws occupied in pitching skin lodges, and men ad- vancing to meet us ; they were soon recognized, for Omaw- haws, and informed us that they were engaged in hunting. We were soon joined by the Big-horse, Crenier, and other chiefs and warriors of the Oto and Omawhaw nations, who remained a considerable time, and received a small present of tobacco, at parting. At Willow creek, several Pawnees were observed on the opposite side at a distance, who avoided us, and as we con- tinued on during the afternoon, many of them appeared at different times and places, on the bluffs, which at a little dis- tance bounded our rout to the right ; but, like the first we had seen, they would not approach our party, but retired on our advancing towards them. The evening encampment was pitched at a favourable po- sition, on the bank of the Loup fork, where we found a boy guarding horses ; he had a melancholy air, and his appear- ance interested us much ; a number of squaws had fled at our approach, but he remained unmoved. He invited us to continue onward to the village, stating the probability of a fall of rain on the coming night. " Are you not afraid," we asked, " to remain here all day, at such a distance from your village." " No," said he, with the utmost indifference, " the Sioux have not been here this long time past, but I saw a great many men and horses to-day on the opposite side of the river, they may have been Sioux, I do'nt know." Being presented with a biscuit, he ate part of it, and put the remain- der in his belt for his parents, that they might taste of the food of the white people. In the evening Semino, a Canadian interpreter residing with the Pawnees, arrived with a letter from Mr. Papan,* *I gladly avail myself of the opportunity of noticing the many attentions which we received from this gentleman. At this time particularly he ren- dered us essential services, in which he appeared to take much pleasure. 350 Expedition to the (a trader in the nation,) stating, that as some misunderstand- ing had occurred amongst the chiefs, Tarrarecawaho had declined meeting the party, to escort us into the village, as he had previously intended to do. This conduct of the chief was altogether unexpected, in- asmuch as he had invited the agent, at the autumnal council, to visit his village, and requested him to halt his party at some distance, and inform him of his proximity, that he might be received with due ceremony. Major Ol Fallon, immediately perceiving the necessity of supporting the dig- nity of his mission in the eyes of these Indians, in order the more effectually to command their respect, directed the mes- sengers to return forthwith and tell that chief, that " he must consider well whom he is about to receive ; if he will not meet me in a proper manner, I will pass through his vil- lage, without looking at him or his people, and visit the next village, and so on to the third ; and if I shall not be proper- ly treated at either, I will return to Camp Missouri to count the graves of the soldiers whom he has heard died there." No further communication was received respecting the in- tentions of the great chief, and early on the succeeding morn- ing our journey was resumed. After riding a considerable distance over a beautiful plain, we came in view of the village of the Grand Pawnees, and saw in every direction great numbers of horses and mules, and a few asses, attended by men and boys. At some dis- tance on the left the Loup fork meandered, on the bank of which stream, was a long line of squaws bearing heavy bur- dens of fuel towards the village. A chief was soon observed advancing with rapidity ; he was received by our cavalcade with music playing, and flags displayed, and was recognized to be Sharitarish, eldest son of the chief of that name com- memorated by Lieutenant Pike, and now second chief of the Grand Pawnees ; the interpreters being absent, no particular communication was interchanged, and we moved on. A Rocky Mountains. 351 short time, however, only elapsed before Tarrarecawaho approached in full dress. We could not choose but admire the lofty dignity of his appearance ; but his extreme hauteur became manifest when he halted at the head of our line, by not offering his hand, or even deigning to look at us. This deportment was reciprocated, and we moved onward again without particularly noticing him, excepting by the short in- termission of movements which had taken place. We were soon informed from the rear, that the Grand Chief was mak- ing signs to induce us to halt; but finding that his imperious deportment gained no respect, and that his present request was altogether disregarded, he at once relinquished the high grounds which he had seemed anxious to maintain, and riding forward, he condescended to offer his hand to each of us in succession. The interpreters having rejoined the party, Major O' Fallon was enabled to communicate with the chief and principal men, such as Taritiwishta, chief of the Tap- page band, Ishcatappa, brother of Sharetarish, and others who successively arrived. He then addressed Tarrarecawa- ho briefly thus; " Long hair, I have come to visit you agree- ably to your invitation, and desire to know whether or not you are glad to see me." The chief answered. " That I am glad to see you, the display of these medals on my dress, and those flags of your nation which are waving in my village, will amply testify." He concluded by inviting us to his lodge, but we informed him that we had brought our own lodges and provisions, we would, however, accept of his hospitality by partaking of his food. We then performed a half circuit around the village, and entered it with the sound of the bu- gle, drum, and fife, with which the commonalty and children seemed highly delighted, following, or rather walking beside the musicians obliquely in two extensive wings, exhibiting the form of the letter V. Of these instruments the bugle was most decidedly the favourite. We passed by and saluted the mansions of the chiefs, at each of which an American 352 Expedition to the flag was hoisted, with the exception only of one that was passed unnoticed, owing to its being distinguished by a Span- ish flag ; Which, however, was struck as soon as the cause of the procedure was understood. This ceremony being per- formed the men were marched off to encamp, and we entered the dwelling of the Grand Chief. After partaking of some excellent boiled bison meat, he requested to know if we would condescend to eat at the houses of the warriors, but the agent informed him that we could only accept of the hos- pitality of chiefs. We were then conducted to six other feasts, in immediate succession, after which we retired to the encampment that had been formed in a low prairie near the town. During our stay in Tarrarecawaho's lodge, Major O'Fal- lon spoke at some length to that chief; he informed him that thus far he was pleased with the reception he had given us; that he had come to repeat in the village, the same words that had been uttered at Engineer Cantonment, &c. The manner, as well as the matter of the address, seemed to com- mand undivided attention; every eye was rivetted upon the speaker, and the most profound silence reigned throughout a crowded audience, that preserved a respectful distance be- hind the chiefs that were seated. directly before us. Instead of an immediate reply, Tarrarecawaho, who alone had remained standing, addressed his warriors in a loud, fluent, and impassioned manner: " I am the only individual of this nation, that possesses a knowledge of the manners and power of the whites. I have been to the town of the Red head, (Governor Clarke, at St. Louis,) and saw there all that a red skin could see. Here sits a chief, (pointing to the agent,) who controls every thing in this land; if he should prohibit you from wearing breech-cloths, you could not wear them. You know that we cannot dispense with powder and balls; you must also know that we cannot dispense with this chief, as he can prevent us from obtaining them. I have no Rocky Mountains. 353 personal fear; I only dread the consequence of improper con- duct, to the women and children; take pity on your women and children, warriors. When he tells you that he is a chief, he speaks truly ; when he says that his soldiers appear like the grass in the spring, in place of those who die, he speaks truly; you, my nation, are like the fly in strength, just so ea- sily can his mighty nation crush you between their fingers. Young men, I have done ; to-morrow I will invite the Ame- rican chief to council, and if any of you wish to speak to him then, you have my consent. Do as I do; I am not asham- ed of what I have done; follow my example." He then, in a mild tone and polite manner, informed the agent that he would consult his chiefs, and would return an answer to his speech to-morrow. Accordingly, about noon on the 26th, a messenger arrived with information that the chiefs and warriors were ready to receive the agent, and we repaired to the lodge in which the assembly was convened. They formed a circle round the chamber, sitting on grass mats ; the chiefs occupied the back part of the lodge, directly in front of whom we were invited to be seated, on mats spread for our reception. A profound silence ensued, during which the eyes of the assembly were occasionally turned by a glance upon Tarrarecawaho, who at length arose, and after a short harangue, held his pipe to the M<.jor to smoke, signifying that he presented a horse. Sever- al speakers succeeded, who generally presented the pipe in the same manner. After an address from IVi ajor O'Fallon, who concluded by inviting the principal men to our camp, to present them with " a pipe of tobacco," the council dissolved. On the expiration of two or three hours, the chiefs and warriors appeared at our camp, and seated themselves on robes and blankets, before our tent, whilst several hundreds of the people encompassed us, keeping however at a respect- ful distance. When the agent had terminated some appro- priate observations, he deposited before Tarrarecawaho, Sha- vol. i. 45 354 Expedition to the retarish, and the Tappage chief, the presents he intended to make, in as many separate parcels. A difference having for some time existed between the two first mentioned chiefs, the former, who was in fault, having threatened to chastise the other, and on being challenged by him, refused to decide the controversy by single combat, now availed himself of a fa- vourable opportunity to obtain a reconciliation, by presenting to Sharetarish his entire parcel of merchandize: Sharetarish then proceeded to parcel out his double portion, consisting of fusils, powder and ball, strouding, blankets, calico, &c. amongst the multitude, reserving nothing for himself. He laid a portion at the feet of Tarrarecawaho, and this chief again performed the part of a donor, retaining only a United States' flag, and expressed his satisfaction and thanks to the agent, for the merchandize they had received. Sharetarish said, that if agreeable to his father, (Major O' Fallon,) he would return in a reasonable time, and bring some of his young warriors, for the purpose of performing a dance. Towards evening, Sharetarish arrived with his dancers, thirty or forty in number, who were all accoutred and paint- ed for the occasion. This exhibition, which would have ap- peared to us to partake much of the terrific, did we not feel assured of their pacific disposition, bore considerable resem- blance to that performed by the Otoes at Engineer Canton- ment, already described, excepting that less pantomimic ac- tion was used, and striking the post formed no part of the ceremony. At the termination of the dance, Sharetarish pre- sented Major O' Fallon with a painted bison robe, represent- ing several of his own combats with the enemy, as well as those of his friends, all of which he explained to us. 27th. The tents were struck, and we departed for the vil- lage of the Pawnee Loups. At the distance of four miles, we passed the Republican village about a mile on our left ; from thence the distance is about three miles to the Loup village, over a beautiful bottom plain of the width of a mile Rocky Mountains. 355 and a half, extending along the Loup fork of the Platte. This plain is nearly thirty feet lower than that over which we had travelled, and which terminates abruptly at the Grand Pawnee village. When within two miles of the village of the Loups, a messenger requested the party to halt, in order to give the chiefs the requisite time to make their preparations to receive us in a manner suitable to the representative of a nation " so great and powerful as that of the Big-knives." After waiting a short time, we observed, at the distance of a mile before us, a great number of mounted Indians emerging suddenly, apparently from the plain itself, for we could not then see a ravine that had previously concealed them from our view. They immediately began to ride in various directions, and to perform numerous evolutions until the whole were arranged in a widely extended line. These rapid movements, which attracted our attention from other objects, having ceased, we perceived a small body of men in front, whose movements were independent of the others, and who were advancing at a moderate pace. When all were formed, they set forwards, slowly at first, but gradually in- creasing their speed as they approached, until they surround- ed us at a full charge. It is impossible by description to do justice to the scene of savage magnificence that was now dis- played. Between three and four hundred mounted In- dians, dressed in their richest habiliments of war, were rush- ing around us in every direction,, with streaming feathers, war weapons, and with loud shouts and yells. The few whom we had observed in advance of the main body, and whom, as they came near, we recognized to be the chief men, present- ed a perfect contrast to the others in their slow movements, and simplicity of dress. Courtesy obliged us to shake hands with each individual, as they came to us in succession for that purpose, nor was a single soldier of our train forgotten on this occasion by any one of them. They expressed great satisfaction on account of our visit, rubbing their breasts in 356 Expedition to the token of the sincerity of this pleasure. Many remarked that the nation had been mourning for their grievous losses in a recent battle with an enemy, but that now grief should give place to rejoicing. Major OFallon addressed the Indians as usual, after which we again moved on towards the village. Latelesha, the grand chief, perceiving that the division of his warriors that were on our left, raised some dust on the march, ordered them all to leeward, that we might not be incommoded. Almost from the beginning of this interesting 1 fete, our attention had been attracted to a young man who seemed to be the leader or partizan of the warriors. He was about twenty-three years of age, of the finest form, tall, mus- cular, exceedingly graceful, and of a most prepossessing countenance. His head dress of war eagles' feathers, de- scended in a double series upon his back like wings, to his saddle croup; his shield was highly decorated, and his long lance was ornamented by a plaited casing of red and blue cloth. On inquiring of the interpreter, our admiration was augmented by learning that he was no other than Petalesha- roo, with whose name and character we were already fami- liar. He is the most intrepid warrior of the nation, eldest son of Latelesha, destined as well by mental and physical quali- fications, as by his distinguished birth, to be the future lead- er of this people. Seeing that his father had taken a place in our cavalcade on the left of Major O'Fallon, he rode up on his right to the exclusion of a brave officer who had pre- viously occupied that situation, and who now regarded him with an apparently stern aspect, but in which there was per- haps more of admiration than of irritation at this unexpected intrusion. The young chief caught the look, and retorted with an eye that seemed never to have been averted through fear. The name of Petalesharoo is connected with the abo- lition of a custom formerly prevalent in this nation, at which humanity shudders. Rocky Mountains. 357 The Pawnee Loups heretofore exhibited the singular anomaly, amongst the American natives, of a people addict- ed to the inhuman, superstitious rite, of making propitiatory offerings of human victims to Venus, the Great Star. The origin of this sanguinary sacrifice is unknown ; probably it existed previously to their intercourse with the white tra- ders. This solemn ceremony was performed annually, and immediately preceded their horticultural operations, for the success of which it appears to have been instituted. A breach of this duty, the performance of which they believed to be required by the Great Star, it was supposed would be succeeded by the total failure of their crops of maize, beans, and pumpkins, and the consequent total privation of their vegetable food. To obviate a national calamity so formidable, any person was at liberty to offer up a prisoner of either sex, that by his prowess in war he had become possessed of. The devoted individual was clothed in the gayest and most costly attire; profusely supplied with the choicest food, and constantly attended by the magi, who anticipated all his wants, cautiously concealed from him the real object of their sedulous attentions, and endeavoured to preserve his mind in a state of cheerfulness, with the view of promoting obesity, and thereby rendering the sacrifice more acceptable to their Ceres. When the victim was thus sufficiently fattened for their purpose, a suitable day was appointed for the performance of the rite, that the whole nation might attend. The victim was bound to a cross, in presence of the as- sembled multitude, when a solemn dance was performed, and after some other ceremonies, the warrior, whose prisoner he had been, cleaved his head with the tomahawk, and his speedy death was insured by numerous archers, who pene- trated his body with their arrows. A trader informed us that the squaws cut pieces of flesh 358 Expedition to the from the deceased, with which they greased their hoes; but this was denied by another who had been present at one of these sacrifices. However this may be, the ceremony was believed to have called down a blessing upon their labours of the field, and they proceeded to planting without delay. The present mild and humane chief of the nation, Late- lesha, or Knife-chief, had long regarded this sacrifice as an unnecessary and cruel exhibition of power, exercised upon unfortunate and defenceless individuals, whom they were bound to protect, and he vainly endeavoured to abolish it by philantrophic admonitions. An Ietan woman who was brought captive into the vil- lage, was doomed to the Great Star by the warrior, whose property she had become by the fate of war. She underwent the usual preparations, and, on the appointed day, was led to the cross, amidst a great concourse of people, as eager, perhaps, as their civilized fellow men, to witness the hor- rors of an execution. The victim was bound to the cross with thongs of skin, and the usual ceremonies being per- formed, her dread of a more terrible death was about to be terminated by the tomahawk and the arrow. At this critical juncture, Petalesharoo (son of the Knife-chief) stepped forward into the area, and in a hurried but firm manner de- clared that it was his father's wish to abolish this sacrifice; that for himself, he had presented himself before them, for the purpose of laying down his life upon the spot, or of re- leasing the victim. He then cut the cords which bound her to the cross, carried her swiftly through the crowd to a horse, which he presented to her, and having mounted ano- ther himself, he conveyed her beyond the reach of imme- diate pursuit; when, after having supplied her with food, and admonishing her to make the best of her way to her own nation, which was at the distance of at least four hundred miles, he was constrained to return to his village. The emancipated Ietan had, however, the good fortune, on her Rocky Mountains. 359 journey of the subsequent day, to meet with a war party of her own people, by whom she was conveyed to her family in safety. This daring deed would, almost to a certainty, have ter- minated in an unsuccessful attempt, under the arm of any other warrior, and Petalesharoo was, no doubt, indebted for this successful and noble achievement to the distinguish- ed renown, which his feats of chivalry had already gained for him, and which commanded the high respect of all his rival warriors. Notwithstanding the signal success of this enterprise, ano- ther display of the firmness and determination of the young warrior was required to abolish this sacrifice, it is to be hoped, forever. The succeeding spring, a warrior, who had saptured a fine Spanish boy, vowed to sacrifice him to the Great Star, and, accordingly, placed him under the care of the magi for that purpose. The Knife-chief, learning the determination of the war- rior, consulted with his son, respecting the best means of preventing a repetition of the horrible ceremony. " I will rescue the boy," said Petalesharoo, " as a warrior should, by force;" but the Knife-chief, unwilling that his son should again expose himself to a danger so imminent, as that which he had once encountered in this cause, hoped to compel the warrior to exchange his victim for a large quantity of mer- chandize, which he would endeavour to obtain with that view. For this purpose he repaired to Mr. Pappan, who happened to be in the village for the purposes of trade, and communicated to him his intentions. Mr. Pappan generous- ly contributed a considerable quantity of merchandize, and much was added by himself, by Petalesharoo, and other Indians, All this treasure was laid in a heap together, in the lodge of the Knife-chief, who, thereupon, summoned the warrior before him. The chief armed himself with his war-club, 360 Expedition to the and explained the object of his call, commanding the war- rior to accept the merchandize and yield up the boy, or prepare for instant death. The warrior refused, and the chief waved his club in the air towards the warrior. " Strike," said Petalesharoo, who stood near to support his father,," I will meet the vengeance of his friends." But the more pru- dent, and politic chief, added a few more articles to the mass of merchandize, in order to give the warrior another opportunity of acquiescing without forfeiting his word. This expedient succeeded; the goods were reluctantly ac- cepted, and the boy was liberated, and was, subsequently, conducted to St. Louis by the traders. The merchandize was sacrificed in place of the boy; the cloth was cut in shreds and suspended by poles at the place of sacrifice, and many of the valuables were consumed by fire. It is not ex- pected that another attempt will be made to immolate a hu- man victim, during the life of Petalesharoo or of his benign father. Our cavalcade performed a circuit round the village, aud saluted at the lodge of Latelesha, upon which the flag of the United States was hoisted; the soldiers were then marched to a proper encamping place, and we were feasted as before. Great order prevailed in this village, and silence reigned throughout, which was attributed to their loss of friends and kinsmen. On the following day the council was held, at which eleven horses and mules were presented in the usual manner. In two instances, however, the horse was represented by a cord or halter attached to a stick. One of these cords was drawn by a little Ietan girl, that Petalesharoo had captured in some battle and adopted as his daughter; she seemed to be the favourite of his family. In the afternoon the greater part of the population were observed coming from the village towards our camp. As they drew near we ascertained that many were painted, arm- Rocky Mountains. 361 ed, and decorated as if for war. Petalesharoo advanced and gave notice that he had brought some of his warriors for the purpose of honouring his American father with a dance. The dancers were about forty in number, and their movements and evolutions were similar to those of the Grand Pawnees. The deep-toned gong was so entirely concealed in the centre of the mass of dancers, that it was with difficulty we ascer- tained whence the wild and measured sound proceeded, which regulated their simultaneous movements. It was ac- companied by other simple instruments, and occasionally in- terrupted from the ear by the piercing note of the whistle, or the sudden discharge of a gun, with the muzzle directed to the earth. At the termination of the first dance the par- tizan requested the accompaniment of our music for the suc- ceeding dance. The music accordingly struck up, with the renewed beating of the gong, but it immediately threw them all into confusion, and after vainly endeavouring to regain their regularity, they ceased. Again the experiment was tried, and again it produced inextricable confusion. This re- peated result brought a smile to the countenance of the par- tizan, who expressed his conviction, that his party was un- able to dance to the music of the white people. The principal men having now arrived agreeably to invi- tation, they were introduced into a large skin lodge which had been erected for us by the orders of Latelesha, as our markee was too feeble to resist a strong wind which prevail- ed during the day. Presents were made to Latelesha and the Metiff chief. The latter transferred his parcel to La- telesha, who laid the" whole before Petalesharoo to dispose of as he thought proper. The young chief appointed two persons to distribute them, and thus the whole was disposed of, though very unequally. The chiefs then returned their thanks and withdrew. I passed the night at the lodge of the MetifT chief, and in the evening was amused by the exhibition of another dancing vol. I. 46 362 Expedition to the party, who concluded by inviting the chief to partake of a feast, to be given on the following day, for the purpose of dispelling his grief for the loss of his brother, in the late contest with the Indians of the Rocky Mountains. This severe battle was fought by ninety -three Pawnee Loup warriors, against a large body of Ietans, Arrapahoes, and Kiawas. The party was led by the most distinguished brave of the village, and half brother of the JMetifF chief, but of unmixed blood, and a principal supporter of the influence of that chief. The party, who were all on foot, were on their way to cap- ture horses, but they were badly armed for a contest, and had but twelve guns amongst them. They were proceeding cautiously along in the prairies between the head waters of the Arkansa and the Rio del Norte, when one party of their runners, or discoverers, came in with information that a great body of the enemy were ahead and had not seen them, anoth- er party of runners soon came in with the same information. The whole now halted to wait for night to capture horses, and busied themselves in preparing their ropes and halters, and in putting themselves in the best order in case of attack. One of the party ascended a small eminence, and perceiv- ed three of the enemy mounted and coming on in full career ; presently more appeared, and soon after they began to show themselves in every quarter. It was now evident to tht par- ty that the enemy were the first discoverers, and that they were now necessitated to contend against a vastly superior force, better armed than themselves, and possessing also the advantage of being all mounted on good horses. It was ob- vious also that there was no hope for them, but in the dis- play of desperate valour. Their first wish had been to gain a creek at some distance in the rear, which was margined with small timber, but as their enemy now completely sur- rounded them, this was impossible. The battle commenced about ten o'clock A. 1VI. and soon raged with great fury. Rocky Mountains. 363 Every muscle was called into action in our little band, who hung firmly together, discharging their arrows and occasion- ally a fusee at the enemy with the steadiest aim. The dead and wounded were falling in every direction in both parties. The enemy were so numerous that numbers of their braves, armed only with a shield, having rejected their offensive weapons, hovered in front of their companions, intent only upon the acquisition of the renown dearest to the heart of the warrior, that of first striking th<: body of a fallen enemy ; many of them were however killed, even by their own people, as they rushed along, and intercepted the flight of the arrow or bullet from its destined mark. The combatants were at very close quarters, and die arrow had its full effect. 7 hey were for some time intermingled, and contended with their war-clubs and knives. 7"he partizan who had been wounded severely early in the action, and had received several more wounds during its continuance, how was struck by an arrow, which buried itself to the feathers in his body. He knew the wound was a mortal one, and fell, but supported himself upon the ground to encourage his men, " my braves," said he, " fight whilst you can move a limb, and when your ar- rows are expended take to your knives." Looking around now upon his companions in arms he perceived that nearly all his principal braves were killed or disabled, and with his dying words he ordered those who were still on their feet to pierce the surrounding enemy, and endeavour to save themselves in the timber of the creek. As soon as it was ascertained that their partizan was dead, his orders were carried into effect, and the remnant of the party fought their way to the creek, where the enemy abandoned them, and returned to exult over the slain. One only of the principal braves was left in this shattered band ; he declared he was ashamed that he had survived, and he immediately ran back to the enemy, although much wounded, and was seen no more. The party now found that they had left fifty-three 364 Expedition to the men dead, or disabled, on the battle ground, amongst whom were all their braves, who had exposed themselves to danger more than the others. Of their numbers, now diminished to forty, all were wounded, with the exception of seven only, and some of these very desperately ; one individual had eight different wounds. As they had thrown off their robes, breech-cloths, and leggings, at the commencement of the battle, they were now absolutely naked, and the weather was extremely cold. They made rude cars on which they drew along those who could not walk, and thus they commenced and proceeded in their slow and laborious march to their village. During the journey some of the wounded requested to be killed, or left to die alone, and one who was wounded in the knee, after soliciting death from his brother repeated- ly in vain, sought an opportunity to die, and finally plunged his knife in his heart. The party subsisted by killing a few bisons on the way, and partially clothed themselves with their raw hides j a miserable defence against the intensity of the cold. The Grand Pawnees were more successful in war excur- sions during the winter. One of their parties encountered a party of Spaniards, who, my informant asserted, sought safety in flight. But it seems highly probable that a battle took place, and that many were killed, inasmuch as the vic- tors returned with much clothing, merchandize, very hand- some figured blankets, many horses, and some silver money. I was almost confirmed in this belief, by being subsequently informed that the party had certainly brought with them some' scalps which were not those of Indians, and on passing through the village I thought that some of the hair which streamed in the wind from numerous portions of human scalps, suspended on sticks from the roofs of the lodges, was taken from the heads of Spaniards. These three bands or clans of Pawnees, although they harmonize well together at present, are not exempt from the Rocky Mountains. 365 lot of artificial distinctions, and party animosity sometimes occurs, which, in one instance, had nearly produced fatal consequences. The Puncaw Indians, having conceived them- selves injured by the Pawnee Loups, applied to the Grand Pawnees for aid in obtaining redress. r- he latter warmly espoused their cause, and the Grand Chief marched his war- riors towards the Loup village, in avowed hostility. Peta- lesharoo hastily assembled his warriors for defence, and sal- lied out to meet the enemy ; but finding their numerical force to be greatly superior to his own, he saw that the re- sistance which his little band could offer, though it might check their career, would, in all probability, be insufficient to repel them. He therefore rode forward between the par- ties and called aloud on Tarrarecawaho, who then advanced to meet him. The young chief immediately challenged him te a single combat ; let us, said he, thus avoid the copious effusion of kindred blood, which otherwise must flow upon the earth in a general battle. This proposition was peremp- torily refused. Then, said Petalesharoo, I must call you an old squaw, and a coward ; return to your party and select for me the bravest of your men. This being also refused, La- telesha came forward and by amicable negociation, adjusted the point in dispute. This village contains about one hun- dred and forty-five lodges. 29th. The horses that were smoked yesterday were brought this morning, and we departed on our return by way of the Republican village. When within a mile of the latter we were again halted by a messenger, in order that the warriors might prepare to receive us properly. In about an hour they were seen issuing from the village, with four chiefs in front, who lamented aloud as they came near, in token of penitence for their offences. They proceeded to shake us by the hand, whilst about one hundred and fifty mounted, decorated, and painted warriors, were rushing about us in every direction, whooping, and yelling, and exhibiting such gracefulness and •366 Expedition to the safety of riding as we had never before witnessed, excepting at the Loup village of which the present display was nearly a counterpart in miniature. In this sham attack, the partizan performed the part of our defender, hovering near us, and as the warriors charged upon us, he intercepted and repelled them. I expected to recognize amongst these warriors many of the individuals who had composed the war party that we encountered near the Konza village. I therefore scrutiniz- ingly examined the countenance and figure of each one, as they successively offered their hands. But, although I had on that occasion particularly noted the features of several of the war party, for the purpose of identifying them on a future time, I could now recognize but a single individual. I knew him immediately, and judging from the Indian char- acter, he knew me equaily well, yet his physiognomy, on presenting me his hand, was not varied in the slightest de- gree from the expression with which he regarded my com- panions, many of whom he had not before seen. After saluting at the village as before, we were invited into the lodge of Fool Robe, the principal chief, an old man of about eighty years, destitute of any thing remarkable in his appearance. The chief men being assembled, the council was immediately held. Major OFallon arose, and spoKe at considerable length, informing them of the great power of the United States ; he detailed the glaring offences of the Pawnee Republicans, and concluded by offering them peace or war, though neither of these was solicited in pre- ference. The chief men, in reply manifested a great desire to adjust all differences, and promised to conduct them- selves better in future. Fool Robe spoke well, but with evi- dent embarrassment. They lamented their poverty, which prevented them from presenting more than four horses, six- teen bison robes, and a package of dried meat. A chief of this nation, called Petalesharoo, who promised, at Engineer Cantonment, to chastise the offenders, having neglected to Rocky Mountains. 367 execute this act of justice, retired from the village on our approach. The agent, on this account, declared to the coun- cil, that he wished never to see him again, that he did not consider him a brave man, as he was afraid to comply with his promise, and that if he ever should meet with him in council, he would compel him .to sit with the young men. The council was further assured, that the offences, which the young men of this nation had committed against white people would be forgiven, but not forgotten. We had to re- gret the absence of the son of Fnol Robe, a fine intelligent young man, who was engaged on some predatory excursion, at the head of one hundred and sixty warriors. During the night a Konza war party carried off one hun- dred and forty horses from the village. The following day we returned to the village of the Grand Pawnees, and received the horses that had been presented at the council by the ceremony of the pipe. A quantity of merchandize had been brought with us from Camp Mis- souri, to exchange for horses, for the service of the troops. This was put into the hands of Messrs. Pappan and Dough- erty for that purpose, and we retired to our camp, which was upon the same spot as that we occupied on the night oi the twenty-fourth instant. May 1st. Mr. Pappan and Mr. Dougherty arrived from the village, having purchased nineteen horses and mules. The price of the horses and mules averaged about the amount of thirtv dollars in Indian merchandize, estimated at the St. Louis valuation. At each of the villages, we observed small sticks of the length of eighteen inches or two feet, painted red, stuck in the earth in various situations, but chiefly on the roots of the houses, each bearing the fragment of a human scalp, the hair of which streamed in the wind. Before the entrance to some of the lodges were small frames, like painters' easels, supporting each a shield, and generally a large painted cy- J68 Expedition to the lindrical case of skin, prepared like parchment, in which a war dress is deposited. The shield is circular, made of bison skin, and thick enough to ward off an arrow, but not to arrest the flight of a rifle ball at close quarters. Defended by this shield, a warrior will not hesitate to cross the path of an arrow; he will sometimes dexterously seize the missile after it has struck, and discharge it back again at the enemy. The lodges, or houses, of these three villages, are similar in structure, but differ in size. The description of those of the Konzas will apply to them, excepting that the beds- are all concealed by a mat partition, which extends parallel to the walls of the lodge, and from the floor to the roof. Small apertures, or doors, at intervals in this partition, are left for the different families, that inhabit a lodge, to enter their respective bed chambers. In the evening Major O' Fallon presented each of us with a horse. Several indians came to our camp, for the purpose of tra- ding with the men. Major O'Fallon wished to obtain one of their horses, in exchange for one that he possessed; but the Indian modestly declined, saying, " My Father, the horse you offer was given by my brother, which is the same as if I had given him myself; I will exchange for almost any other horse." Early on the following morning we departed on our re» turn to the Missouri, with a numerous retinue of horses, amounting to more than sixty. On the way several bisons were killed, and three calves were taken alive in the chase, by throwing nooses over their heads. On the 6th, we arrived at the Missouri, after an absence of sixteen days. Much of the information we acquired, res- pecting the manners, &c. of the Pawnees, is incorporated in the account of the Indians of the Missouri, in some of the preceding chapters of this work. Rocky Mountains. 369 APPENDIX TO CHAPTER XVI. Animals— -Indian language of signs — Indian speeches. I. Animals. A catalogue of the names of animals, which we observed at Engineer Cantonment, or at other indicated places, on our journey to that post. MAMMALIA. Vespertilio novaboracensis, L — New- York bat. — Carolinus, Geoff. — Carolina bat. Scalops aquaticus — Mole. Ursus Americanus, (gularis^ Geoff.) — Black bear. Procyon lotor — Racoon. Taxus labradoricus — Badger. Mustela minx — Mink. vison. Mephitis putorius (chinche, Buff. Cuv.) — Skunk. Lutra (mustela lutra Braziliensis Gm. Cuv. J — Otter. Canis — Indian dog. - lycaon — Black wolf. — virginianus — Red fox. — cintreo-argenteus — Gray fox. Felis concolor — Cougar. rufa — Bay lynx. Didelphius virginiana — Opossum. Castor fiber — Beaver. Ondatra Zibethicus — Muskrat. Gerbillus Canadensis — Leaping-mouse. Arctomys monax — Maryland marmot. Mus agrarius? — Rustic mouse. Arvicola Zanthognatha. Leach — Meadow mouse (on the Ohio). vol. I. 47 3/0 Expedition to the Mus musculus — introduced by our expedition. Pseudostoma bursuna — Pouched rat. Sciurus cinereus — Gray squirrel. capistratus — White-nosed do. striatus — Ground do. nigra — Black do. Lepus Americanus — Rabbit. Cervus majcr-^-TLlk. Virginianus— Virginian deer. Antilocapra Americana, Ord. — Prong-horned antelope. Bos bison, Gmel. — Bison. BIRDS. Vultur {Cathartes Illig.} aura — Turkey-buzzard. Falco {Hahcetus, Sav.) lejcocephalus — Bald eagle. (Pandion, S'av.} halicetus? — Fish-hawk. (Accipitur, V.) rtificaudus, VieiL (F. Borealis, L. Wilson.} — American buzzard, Lath. — — {Circus, Beth.) uliginosus — Marsh-hawk. (Buteo) galinivorus, Fieil—Greai hen, H. (Milvus, Bech.) furcatus — Swallow-tailed falcon, Lath. (Tinnunculus, VieiL} sparverius — American spar- row-hawk. (Aquila, Briss.~)fulvus — Ring-tailed eagle, Wilson; war-eagle of the Omawhaws. lineatus Gm. Wils. — Red-shouldered hawk. — Mis- sissippi. Missisippiensis, Wilson — Mississippi kite. — — velox, Wilson. — Sharp-shinned hawk. " ■ ■ Pennsylvanicus, Wilson. — Slate-coloured hawk. Strix (Otus, Cw».) otus — Long-eared owl. ( do do }Virgiana — Virginian eared owl, Lath. - ■ "' {do do )asio — Red eared owl, Lath. — Screech- owl. Rocky Mountains. 371 Strix (Ulula, Cuv.) nebulosa — Barred owl, Lath. {Noctna, Sav:g.) phalcenoides Dand. Vieil. • ( do do ) passerina, Fi ilson. {do do ) Hudsonia — Hawk-owl, Wilson. {Bubo, Cuv.) bubo — Great owl. Lamus borealis. Vieil. — Great American shrike. Wils. Tanagra Ludoviciana. Wils — Louisiana tanager. ■ rubra — Scarlet tanager. Musicapa ( Tyr annus. Cuv.) pipiri. Vieil. — Tyrant fly- catcher. Wilson. ( Tyrannus. Cuv.) Ludovicianus — Louisiana fly-catcher. Lath. Canadensis Gm- Wilson. — Canada fly catcher (Icteria. Vieil. Pipra. Wilson.) viridis. L. yellow-breasted Chat. Wils. cantatrix Bartram. Wils. — White-eyed fly- catcher. — {Mucipeta. Cuv.) ruticilla — American red- start. Wilson. olivacea — Red-eyed fly-catcher. Wilson. novaboracensis, Gm. — Green black-capt fly- catcher. Wilson. fusca — Pewee fly-catcher. Wilson. Ampelis (Bombycivora Temm.) Carolinensis. Bnss. — Cedar bird. Wilson. Turdus rufus — Ferruginous thrush. felivox. Vieil. — Catbird. fuscus. — Brown thrush. pollyglottus — Mocking bird. aurocapillus — Golden -crowned thrush. migratorius- — Red-breasted thrush. aquaticus. Wils. — Water thrush. Sylvia solitaria. Wils. — Blue- winged yellow warbler. ■ — sialis — Blue bird. ■■■■ ' — striata. Wilson. — Black poll warbler. 372 Expedition to the Sylvia Ludoviciana. L. — Blue yellow-backed warbler. Wilson. ■ ■ — {Troglodites. Cuv.) troglodites? Wilson. — Win- ter wren. azurea.Steph. ccerulea. Wils. — Ccerulean warbler. — — — aestiva. Lath. Certhia Caroliniana. Lath. Wils. — Great Carolina wren. palustris. Wils. — Marsh wren. Hirundo Americanus—Bam swallow. Wilson. riparia — Bank do. — pelasgia — Chimney do. — purpurea — Purple martin. Caprimulgus Virginianus. L. — Whip-poor- Will. porpetue. Vieil. — Night hawk. Alauda alpestris L. Wils. — Shore lark. rubra — Red lark. Parus atricapillus — Black capped titmouse. Emberiza Americana L. Wils. — Black throated bunting. Fringilla (Ploceus. Cuv.) erythrocephala — Towhee bunt- ing. socialis. Wilson. — Chipping sparrow. oryzivora — Rice bird. pecora. Wils. (Emberiza) — Cow bird. (Cardualis. Cuv.) tristis — Yellow bird. melodia. Wilson.- — Song sparrow. purpurea — Purple finch. Hudsonia — Snow bird. (Linaria. Been.*) linaria — Lesser red-poll. Loxia (Vidua. Cuv.) cardinalis — Cardinal gross beak. (do do ) Ludoviciana. — Rose-breasted do. (Cory thus. Cuv.) enueleator — Pine gross beak. Curvirostra Americana. Wilson. — American cross- beak. Gracula (Icterus. Cuv.) quiscala — Purple grackle. Rocky Mountains. 373 Oriolus (Zanthornus. Cuv.) phccniceus — Red-winged starling. Wilson. (Zanthornus. Cuv.) Baltimoreus — Baltimore bird. (do do ) spurius — Orchard oriole. ' — ( do do ) icterocephalus — Yellow head- ed oriole. Sturnus Ludovicianus — Meadow lark. Wils. The S. torquatus of Stephens seems to be the male of this species. Sitta Carolinensis— White-breasted nuthatch. Wilson. varia — Red-bellied do do. Corvus corax — Raven. corone — Crow. — — — (Pica. Cuv.) pica — Magpie. (Garrulus. Cuv.) cristatus — Blue jay. Trochilns colubris — Ruby throated humming bird. Alcedo alcyon — Belted Kingfisher. Picus pileatus — Pileated woodpecker. Lath. erythrocephala — Red-headed woodpecker. auratus — Gold-winged do. pubescens — Downy do. villosus — Hairy do. — Carolinus — Red-bellied do. Psittacus Carolinensis — Caroline perroquet. Meleagris gallipavo — Turkey. Tetrao cupido — Pinnated grouse. — umbellus— Ruffed do. phasianellus — Long-tailed grouse. — — — (Perdix) Virginianus — Virginian partridge. Wilson. Columba migratoria — Passenger pigeon, (t?. Canaden- sis is the female. Temm.) Carolinensis — Carolina pigeon or dove. Charardrius vociferus — Kildeer. pluvialis — Golden plover. Ardea (Grus. Cuv.) Americanus — Hooping crane. '- \ do do ) Canadensis — Sandhill do. 374 Expedition to the Ardea herodias — Great heron. virescens — Green heron. nycticorax — Night heron. Numenius longirostra — Long-billed curlew. Scolopax minor — Little woodcock. ( Tot amis) semipalmata — Willet. (do ) melanoleucus. Vieil. — Stone curlew. ( do ) vociferus — Telltale godwit. Tringa solitaria. Wilson. — Solitary sandpiper. Bartramia. Wilson. — Bartram's sandpiper. semipalmata. Ord. — Semipalmated sandpiper. Scolopax Jlavipes Gm. Wils. — Yellow-shanks snipe. fedoa. L. Wilson. — Great marbled godwit. Recurvirostra Americana — American avocet. Colymbus glacialis — Great northern diver. (Podiceps. Lath.) cornutus — Horned grebe. Fulica Americana — Common coot. Larus ridibundus? — Laughing gulL Sterna aranea. Wilson. — Marsh tern. minuta — Lesser tern. Pelecanus erythrorhynchos — Rough-billed pelican. fuscus — Brown pelican. (Phalacroeorax. Briss.) carbo — Corvorant. Anas (Cygnus. Meyer.) cygnus — Swan. (do ) Canadensis — Canada goose. (Anser. Briss.) hyperborea — Snow goose. ( do ) bernicla? — Barnacle goose. ( do ) albifrons — White-fronted goose. discors — Blue-winged teal. albeola — Buffle-headed duck. boschus — Wild duck. sponsa — Summer duck. marila — Scaup duck. acuta — Pin-tailed duck. glacialis — Long-tailed duck. Rocky Mountains. 375 Anas clangula — Golden-eye. Americana — American widgeon. Mergus serrator — Red-breasted merganser. cucullatus — Hooded do. REPTILIA. Testudo clausa. — This is our common land tortoise. It rarely, if ever, enters the water, voluntarily, and is therefore decidedly terrestrial. Testudo (Emys. Brogni.) geographica. Lesueur. — — (do do ) serpentaria — Serpent tortoise. ( Trionix. Geoff.) feox — Fierce tortoise. Lacerta (Agama) undulata. Daud. (Scincus) 5-lineatus. Coluber constrictor — Racer. ordinatus — Garter snake. heterodon — Hog-nose snake. Crotalus horridus. L. — Banded rattlesnake. durissus. L. — Diamond rattle snake. Rana pipiens, Daud. (R. Catesbeana. Shaxv.) — Bull- frog— Ohio. Rana halecina Kalm. Daud. (R. pipiens Schreb. Shaxv.) — Shad frog — Ohio. Rana clamata. Daud. ( Hula J occularis. Daud. — On the Ohio, near Ship- pingsport. This species is subject to vary considerably. In addition to the lateral vitta, it has sometimes three dorsal vittse. other specimens have a remarkable cruciform mark on the back, Rana ( Hyla) femorahs. Daud. — Ohio. C BufoJ musicus — Common toad. Salamandra subviolacea. Barton. — near Shippingsport. longicauda. Green.— near Pittsburgh. rubra. Daud. — Ohio. cinerea. Green* — near Shippingsport. 376 Expedition to the Salamandra (Triton Laur.J Alleganiensis (Salam. gi- gantea. Barton. — Pittsburgh. The following observations were made, relative to the ar- rival and departure of birds, at Engineer Cantonment. A few notes are added, which were made at Pittsburgh and other places. Vultur aura.~— Arrived, April 2, 1820. On the Ohio, ob- served, May 9, 1819. Falco halicetus? — Flying north May 17, 1820. furcatus. — Was seen 20, The Falco and Strix families generally winter here. Tanagra rubra, — Arrived May 1, 1820 — at Pittsburgh ar- rived, April 29, 1819. Muscicapa olivacea arrived April 30, 1820. cantatrix — 30, ruticilla — 28, 1820. On the Ohio, observed May 8, 1819. Muscicapa fusca arrived March 22, 1820, pipiri — May 7, 1820. On the Ohio observed May 8, 1819. Turdus fuscus arrived April 28. At Pittsburgh the 14th. Turdus aurocapillus — 26, 1820. aquaticus — 26, — migratorius — 11, felivox observed on the Ohio May 8, 1819. rufus do do 2, 1820. Certhia palustris arrived April 15, 1820. Sylvia striata — 26, azurea — 28, sialis — a few remain all winter. Hirundo pelasgia arrived May I, 1820. At Pittsburgh, arrived April 27, 1819. Hirundo purpurea arrived March 30, 1820, At Pittsburgh April 14, 1819. Rocky Mountains. 377 Hirundo Americana — at Pittsburgh, arrived April 21, 1819. Caprimulgus Virginianus arrived April 19, 1820. At Pitts- burg, heard May 5, 1819. Caprimulgus porpetue arrived May 16, 1820. On the Ohio observed May 6, 1819. Caprimulgus rufus. Vieil. — heard on the Ohio June 2, 1819. Funis atricapillus — all winter. Fringilla erythrocephala arrived March 22, 1819, purpurea seen Feb. 28, Hudsonica departing April 11, — oryzivora arrived May 14, — linaria — Feb. 1, tristis remains during the winter. Loxia Ludoviciana observed May 1 and 6, 1819. Americana — Feb. 21, cardinalis — on the Ohio May 8, enuncleator — occasionally seen during the winter. Oriolus icterocephalus observed May 14, 1820. phceniceus — March 1, Baltimoreus observed near Pittsburgh April 29, 1819. Sturnus Ludovicianus arrived April 5, 1820. Sitta Carolinensis remains all winter. Corvus pica retired northward March 23, 1820. corax — the. young nearly able to fly, May 12, 1820. Trochilus colubris arrived May 18, 1820. On the Ohio, May 6, 1819. Alcedo alcyon arrived March 20, 1820. Picus erythrocephalus arrived March 20, 1820. auratus and some others remain all winter; but the erythrocephalus is entirely migratory. Picus pileatus — seen Feb. 28, 1820. Psittacus Carolinensis — seen several times during the winter: near Louisville, May 25, 1819. Columba migratoria arrived May 2, 1820. vol. i. 48 378 Expedition to the Columba Carolinensis arrived April 30, 1820. Ardea Americanus — March 19, virescens seen on the Ohio May 6, 1819. Canadensis arrived May 24, 1820. Numenius longirostra arrived April 1, 1820. Was seen on the top of the Allegany mountain March 24, 1819. Curvircstra Americana — seen Feb. 20, 1820. Scalopax vociferus arrived March 19, 1820. At Pittsburgh, observed May 5, 1819. Scolopax semipalmata arrived May 6, 1820. minor — April 8, Tringa solitaria — 30, At Pittsburgh observed May 15, 1819. Colymbus cornutns arrived May 5, 1820. Lams ridibundus? — in large flocks, flying northward, May 4, 1820. They were seen at Pittsburgh April 3, 1819. Sterna minuta arived April 2, 1820. Pelecanus erythrorhynchos arrived April 8, 1820. ~ carbo arrived April 10, 1820. At Pittsburgh ar- rived May o, 1819. Anas cygnus — flying to the north Feb. 22, 1820. canadensis do do 21, acuta shot 28, Americana shot March 3, sponsa with their young May 50, 1819. The great migration of geese, swans, ducks, and cranes, commenced on the 22nd of February, and terminated the latter end of March, 1820. II.— INDIAN LANGUAGE OF SIGNS. [Referred to in page, 202.] 1. Sun — The fore finger and thumb are brought together at tip, so as to form a circle, and held up towards the sun's track. To indicate any particular time of the day, the hand with the sign of the sun,, is stretched out towards the east Rocky Mountains. 579 horizon, and then gradually elevated, to show the ascent of that luminary, until the hand arrives in the proper direction, to indicate the part of the heavens in which the sun will be at the given time. 2. Night, or sleeping — The head, with the eyes closed is laterally inclined for a moment upon the hand. As many times as this is repeated, so many nights are indicated; very frequently the sign of the sun is traced over the heavens, from east to west, to indicate the lapse of a day, and pre- cedes the motion; it also precedes the following — 3. Darkness — The hands extended horizontally forwards, and back upward, pass one over the other, two or three times touching it. 4. Combat — The clenched hands are held about as high as the neck, and five or six inches asunder, then waved two or three times laterally, to show the advances and retreats of the combatants; after which the fingers of each hand are suf- fered to spring from the thumb towards each other, as in the act of sprinkling water, to represent the flight of missiles. 5. Prisoner — The fore finger and thumb of the left hand, are held in the form of a semicircle, opening towards, and near the breast, and the fore finger of the right representing the prisoner, is placed upright within the curve, and passed from one side to another, in order to show that it will not be permitted to pass out. 6. Man —A finger held vertically. 7. Seeing — The fore finger, in the attitude of pointing, is passed from the eye towards the real or imaginary object. 8. Seen, or discovered — The sign of a man, or other ani- mal, is made, after which the finger is pointed towards, and approached to your own eye; it is the preceding sign re- versed. 9. Entering a house or lodge — The left hand is held with the back upward, and the right hand also with the back up, is passed in a curvilinear direction, down under the other, 380 Expedition to tht so as to rub against its palm, then up on the other side of it. The left hand here represents the low door of the skin lodge, and the right, the man stooping down to pass in. 10. Theft — The left fore arm is held horizontally, a little forward or across the body, and the right hand passing tinder it, with a quick motion, seems to grasp something, and is suddenly withdrawn. 11. Hunting — The fore finger is brought near the eye, and placed in the attitude of pointing, it is then wagged from side to side, the eye. following its devious motion, and seeming to look in the direction indicated. Sometimes the hand is ex- tended far before the eye, and the same motion is given to the finger. 12. Pretty — The fingers and thumb, so opposed as to form h curve, are passed over the face nearly touching it, from the forehead to the chin, then add the sign of Good, No. 42. 13. Eating — The fingers and thumb are brought together in opposition to each other, into something of a wedge shape, and passed to and from the mouth four or five times, within the distance of three or four inches of it; to imitate the ac- tion of food passing to the mouth. 14. Drinking, or xvater — The hand is partially clenched, so as to have something of a cup shape, and the opening be- tween the thumb and finger is raised to the mouth, as in the act of drinking. If the idea of water only is to be conveyed, the hand does not stop at the mouth but is continued above it. 15. Enough, or a belly full — The sign for eating is first made, then the fore finger and thumb are opposed to each other, so as to form a semicircular curve, which is elevated along the body from the belly to the neck, in order to indi- cate that the interior is filled with food up to that part. 16. Squaw — The hands are passed from the top down each side of the head, indicating the parting of the hair on the top, and its flowing down each side. Rocky Mountains. 381 17. The discharging- of a gun — Is indicated by slapping the back of the right hand partially closed, into the palm of the left. 18. Death — By throwing the fore finger from the per- pendicular, into a horizontal position towards the earth, with the back downwards. 19. Killing — The hands are held with the edge upwards, and the right hand strikes the other transversely, as in the act of chopping- This sign seems to be more particularly ap- plicable to convey the idea of death, produced by a blow of the tomahawk or war-club. 20.. Bison — The two fore fingers are placed near the ears, projecting, so as to represent the horns of the animal. 21. Surrounding the Bison — The sign No. 20, is first made, the hands with the fore fingers and thumbs in a semi- circle, are then brought two or three times together. 22. Discharging the arrow — The hands are placed as in the attitude of drawing the arrow in the bow, (this is also the sign for the bow) and its departure is indicated by spring- ing the fingers from the thumbs, as in the act of sprinkling water. 23. To speak — The motion is like sprinkling water from the mouth by springing the fore finger from the thumb, the hand following a s"hort distance from the mouth at each re- silience, to show the direction of the word, or to whom it is addressed; this motion is repeated three or four times. 24. Haranguing — The above motion repeated rapidly, the hand at each motion pursuing a different direction, to show that the talk is addressed to various persons. 25. §>iiantity, or great number — The hands and arms are passed in a curvilinear direction outwards and downwards, as if we were showing the form of a large globe; then the hands are closed and elevated, as if something was grasped in each hand, and held up about as high as the face. 26. Exchange — The two fore fingers are extended per- 382 Expedition to the pendicularly, and the hands are then passed by each other transversely in front of the breast, so as nearly to exchange positions. 27. Inquiry — The hand held up with the thumb near the face, and the palm directed towards the person of whom the inquiry is making, it is then rotated upon the wrist two or three times edgewise, to denote uncertainty. 28. Truth- — The fore finger passed, in the attitude of pointing, from the mouth forward in a line curving a little upward, the other fingers being carefully closed. 29. Lie — The fore and middle fingers extended, passed two or three times from the mouth forward, they are joined at the mouth, but separate as they depart from it, indicating that the words go in different directions. 30. It is so — The motion is somewhat like 28, but the fin- ger is held rather more upright, and is passed nearly straight forward from opposite the breast, and when at the end of its course, it seems gently to strike something, though with a rather slow and not suddenly accelerated motion. 31. Sit down — The fist is clenched, and the motion of it is then the same as if it held a staff, and gently stamped it upon the earth, two or three times. 32. Travelling with great rapidity — The hands are held edge up, extended forward and a little sideways, one in ad- vance of the other, though parallel, they then are agitated a little in the manner of a fan, though with a much more rapid and not so wide a motion, the arms being at rest. 33. Running- — The arm nearly doubled upon itself, and then the elbow thrown forward and backward, as in the act of running. 34. Hiding on horseback— The index and middle finger of the right hand, are straddled over the left index finger, re- presenting the rider and the horse, these are then jolted for- ward to represent the trotting motion of the horse. 35. Knife — Hold the left hand clenched near the mouth, Rocky Mountains* 383 as if it held one end of a strip of meat, the other end of which was between the teeth, then pass the edge of the right hand, as in the act of cutting, obliquing a little upwards from right to left, between the other hand and mouth, so as to ap- pear to divide the supposed meat. 36. Awl — The left fore finger is extended, and the right, also extended, is placed across it, and is then turned on its axis, so as to imitate the action of the awl in making a hole. 37, My offspring — If an Indian wishes to tell you that an individual present is his offspring, he points to the person, and then with the finger still extended, passes it forward from his loins in a line curving downwards, then slightly upwards, sometimes saying, " That is my child, ilium minxi" Da- shinga-shinga-we-weet-tah-ohn-na-je. 38- Strength — The hands are clenched, the left fore arm is held almost perpendicularly near the breast, so that the fist is nearly opposite to the throat; the right arm is then carri- ed up between the left and the breast, and continued on over the left fist to the outside of the latter ; the right arm is then brought down so as to have the same direction with the other, and the fists rest opposite to each other in a line from the breast. This motion resembles the act of wringing a thick towel. If he would say, " I am strong," he strikes him- self upon the breast two or three times with his fist, previous- ly to the motion above described. If he would say, u You are strong," he previously points to you, &c. 39. Fire — The act of striking fire with the flint and steel is re- presented, after which, the ascent of the smoke is indicated, by closing the fingers and thumb of the right hand, holding them in a vertical position with the hand as low as convenient, the hand is then gradually elevated, and the fingers and thumb a little expanded, to show the ascent and expansion of the volume of smoke. 40. Rabbit — The fore and little finger of the right hand are extended, representing the ears of the animal; the hand 384 Expedition to the is then bobbed forward to show the leaping motion of the animal. 41. Deer — The fore finger of the right hand is extended vertically, with the back towards the breast, it is then turned from side to side, to imitate the motion of the tail of the animal when he walks at his leisure. 42. Good — The hand held horizontally, back upwards, de- scribes with the arm a horizontal curve outwards. 43. Be quiet, or be not alarmed, or have patience — The palm of the hand is held towards the person. 44. Copulation — The back of the right hand with the fore finger extended, is slapped three or four times in the palm of the left, which is partially closed so as to admit the mo- tion of the other hand within it; at each motion the right hand advances forward in the left, until at the last motion, its fingers are so far advanced as to admit of being sprung two or three times from the thumb, as in the act of sprinkling water. 45. Ixvill kill you — Direct the right hand towards the of- fender, and spring the fingers from the thumb, as in the act of sprinkling water. 46. Fish — Hold the upper edge of the hand horizontally, and agitate it in the manner of a fan but more rapidly, in imitation of the motion of the tail of the fish. 47. Poor — The two fore fingers extended, with the right as if it was a knife, imitate the motion of cutting the flesh off of the left finger, beginning towards the tip, and cutting with a quick motion directed towards the base; at the same time turn the left finger a little round, so as to expose the different parts to the action of cutting; intimating that the flesh has diminished from starvation. 48. House or lodge — The two hands are reared together in the form of the roof of a house, the ends of the fingers up- ward. 49. Husband, companion, or in company — The two fore Rocky Mountains. 385 fingers are extended and placed together, with their backs upward. 50. Snow — The hand is held up about as high as the head, with the fingers suffered to dangle downwards, it is then bobbed a little up and down, as if to throw off drops from the ends of the fingers. 51. Rain — The sign for water (No. 14,) precedes that for snow. 52. Robe — The hands are placed near the shoulders, as if holding the ends of the robe, and then crossed, as if drawing the robe tight around the shoulders. 53. The coming of a person from a distance — Place the fore finger in a vertical position, with the arm extended towards the point from which the person came, or is to come, then bring it gradually near the body, but not in contact with it, or if he continued on, carry it in the direction he passed. 54. Snake — The fore finger is extended horizontally, and passed along forward in a serpentine line. This is also used to indicate the Snake nation of Indians. 55. Crow nation of Indians — The hands held out each side, and striking the air in the manner of flying. 56. Light — Make the sign of the sun in the eastern horizon, and then extend the hands together, with the palm upwards, and carry them from each other outwards. 57. Flat-head nation — One hand placed on the top of the head, and the other on the back of the head. 58. Pierced-nose nation — The finger extended, pass it ho- rizontally by the nostrils. 59. Trade — First make the sign of exchange, (No. 26), then pat the left arm with the right finger, with a rapid mo- tion irom the hand passing it towards the shoulder. 60. Sioux nation — The edge of the hand passed across the throat, as in the act of cutting that part. 61. Black-foot nation — The finger and thumb encircle the ancle. vol. I. 49 386 Expedition to the 62. Anapaho nation — The fingers of one hand touch the breast in different parts, to indicate the tattooing of that part in points. 63. Carrying a pack — The hands are placed each side of the head, as if they held the strap of the hoppas, which passes round the forehead, in order to relieve that part, by supporting a portion of the weight of the burden; with this motion, two or three slight inclinations of the head and cor- responding movements of the hands are also made. 64. Pretty — Another sign, beside that marked, No. 43, is the following; curve the fore finger of the right hand, and place the tip on the ridge of the nose between the eyes, so as to represent a high Roman nose, then bring down the hand in a curvilinear manner, until the wrist touches the breast, after which add the sign, No. 42.. 65. No, not, or none — The hand waved outwards, with the thumb upward. For yes, see No. 30. 66. Destroyed, or all gone, no more — The hands held hori- zontally, and the palms rubbed together, two or three times round, the right hand is then carried off from the other, in a short horizontal curve. 67. Ange? — The fingers and thumb of the right hand, with the ends together and near the breast, then turn the hand round two or three times, so as to describe vertical circles; indicating that the heart is disturbed. 68. Dissatisfaction, or discontent — The extended finger plac> :-,\ transversely before the situation of the heart, rotate the vv ist two or three times gently, forming a quarter of a circle each time. 69. Indecision — The index and middle finger extended and diverged, place them transversely before the situation of the heart, and rotate the wrist two or three times gently, forming each time a quarter of a circle. 70. Fool — The finger is pointed to the forehead, and the hand is then held vertically above the head, and rotated on the wrist two or three times. Rocky Mountains. 387 71. Swiftness — The two index fingers are held parallel together, and pointing forward, the right one is then passed rapidly forward. 72. Shienne nation — With the index finger of the right hand, proceed as if cutting the left arm in different places with a sawing motion from the wrist upwards — to represent the cuts or burns on the arms of that nation. 73. Left-handed — The left hand clenched is held up be- fore the neck, the elbow is then brought in to the side, at the same time giving to the fore arm a twist, so as to bring the closed palm opposite the breast. 74. I do not understand— The fingers and thumb of the right hand brought together near their tips, and then ap- proached, and receded, to and from the ear, two or three times, with a quick motion, made within the distance of two or three inches; finish with the sign, No. 65. 75. /understand — The same sign with the preceding, ex- cepting the No. 65, which is omitted. The motion of the fingers, is designed to represent the sound entering the ear. 76. Love or affection — The clenched hand, pressed hard upon the breast. 77. Me (1) — The clenched hand struck gently, and with a quick motion, two or three times, upon the breast. Or, the fingers brought together are placed perpendicularly upon the breast. 78. Tou — Is expressed by simply pointing at the persons, and the same for other objects within view. 79. Multitude — First indicate a man, No. 6, or whatever object it may be, and then the sign of a great many, No. 25. 80. Opposite — A clenched hand held up on each side of the head, at the distance of a foot or more from it. 81. Hill — A clenched hand held up on the side of the head, at the distance of a foot or more from it. 82. River — The hand, in the form of a scoop or ladle, is carried to the mouth as if conveying water, and then drawn 388 Expedition to the along in a horizontal line with the edge downward, about the height of the breast. 83. Counting, or enumeration — The fingers and thumbs ex- panded, count ten; in order to proceed with the enumera- tion by tens, the hands mUst be clenched, and if again ex- panded it counts twenty, and so on, the hands being clench- ed between every ten. In order to indicate the digits, clench the hands and extend the little finger of the left hand for one, extend also the ring finger for two, and so on, the thumb for five; these must remain extended, whilst the thumb of the right is extended for six, &c. Any number within five, above anv number of tens, is indicated by clenching the left hand and crossing the right over it, with the requisite number of fingers extended. For the number of sixteen, exhibit the sign of ten and then extend four fingers, and the two thumbs in the order of enumeration; for seventeen, proceed by extending the fore finger of the right hand, and so on to twenty. In this manner any sum can be denoted, always holding the backs of the hands upward. When enumerating a small number, where a considerable exertion of the me- mory is requisite, the Indians extend the left hand with the palm upward, whilst, with the index of the right, the fingers are successively bent in to the palm, beginning as before with the little finger, and the greater difficulty in recalling to mind the numbers or events, the more apparent resistance is offer- ed to the inflexion of the finger. 84. A ChieJ — The fore finger of the right hand extended, pass it perpendicularly downward, then turn it upward, and raise it in a right line as high as the head. 85. Bad — Make the sign of good (No. 42), and then that of not, (No. 65.) 86. Gun — Hold out the left hand, as in the act of support- ing the gun when directed horizontally, and with the right appear to cock it. 87. Gun-powder — Appear to take up a pinch of the powder, Rocky Mountains. 389 and to rub it between the finger and thumb, then turning the hand, spring the fingers from the thumb upward, so as to re- present the exploding of the powder. 88. BalU or bullet. Make the sign of the exploding of the powder, then grasp the fore finger of the hand with the re- maining fingers and thumb, so that the tip of it, will so ex- tend beyond them, as to represent the ball. 89. Scissors — With the fore and middle fingers, imitate the opening and. shutting of the blades of the scissors. 90. Looking-glass — The palm of the hand held before the face, the fingers pointing upward. 91. Writing- — The act of writing is imitated by the finger, in the palm of the opposite hand. 92. Brother — The sign for a man (No. 6), succeeded by placing the ends of the fore and middle fingers of one hand, together in the mouth. 93. Sister — The sign for a squaw (No. 16), after which place the fingers in the mouth as in No. 92. 94. Cold — The arms with clenched hands, held up before the breast, thrown into a tremulous motion as if shivering with cold. 95. Cowardice — The head stooped down, and the arm thrown up to protect it; a quick motion. 96. Marching, or travelling moderately — The hand held vertically as high as the neck, with slightly divided fingers, and rocked edgewise forward and backward upon the wrist, extending the arm a little forwards, i his sign resembles that for inquiry (No. ^7), but differs in the direction of the motion of the hand. 97. The return of a party through fear — Begin with the preceding motion, then draw the tips of the fingers and thumb together, and retreat the hand to the body. 98. Hunting Shirt — The fore finger and thumb so opposed as to form a curve, are passed near the surface ot the body, from the forehead to the abdomen. 390 Expedition to the 99. Surprise, or astonishment — Is indicated by placing the hand upon the mouth, to show that language is inadequate to communicate their sensations. 100. Calumet Dance — The hand extended with the edge upward, and with the arm waved sideways, with a motion like that of a swing. 101. Beaver trap — The two fore fingers brought suddenly together, in a parallel manner, so as to represent the snap- ping of the steel trap. 102. Stone — Close the right hand, and strike the palm of the left hand two or three times with it. 103. Give it to me — The hand extended in a pointing po- sition towards the object in request, then brought towards the body with the finger raised vertically, and laid against the breast. 104. Mountains — When speaking of the Rocky Moun- tains, Tarrarecawaho, held up the fingers of his left hand, a little diverging from each other; and to convey the idea of the streams flowing from them, he placed the index finger of his right hand alternately between each two of them, and drew it away in a serpentine manner. The following signs are extracted from an essay by Wil- liam Dunbar, Esq., published in the sixth volume of the Transactions of the American Philosophical Society. It will be observed that some of them differ essentially from those which we obtained, and that we have omitted ten of them which correspond with those we have given. While — With the under side of the fingers of the right hand, rub gently upon that part of the left hand which cor- responds with the knitting of the bones of the fore finger and thumb. Egg — The right hand held up with the fingers and thumb extended, and approaching each other as if holding an egg within. The same, or similar to what went before — Place the two fore fingers parallel to each other, and push them forward a little. Rocky Mountains. 391 Snow — Begin with the sign of rain, then the sign of air or cold, and conclude with the sign of white. Ice — Begin with the sign of water, then of cold, then the earth, and lastly a stone, with the sign of sameness or simi- larity. Hail — Begin with the sign of water, then the sign of cold, next the sign of a stone, then the same, then the sign of white, and lastly conclude with the sign of an egg; all which, com- bined gives the idea of hail. Frost — Begin with the sign of water, then the sign of night or darkness, then the sign of cold, then the sign of white, and lastly the earth. Cloud — Begin with the sign of water, then raise the two hands as high as the forehead, and placing them with an in- clination of 15°, let them gently cross one another. Fire— The two hands brought near the breast touching, or approaching each other, and half shut, then moved outwards moderately quick, the fingers being extended, and the hands a little separated at the same time, as if to imitate the ap- pearance of flame. ■Bring, fetch, or give me — The hand half shut, with the thumbs pressing against the fore finger, being first moderate- ly extended either to the right or left, is brought with a mo- derate jerk to the opposite side, as if something was pulled along by the hand. Consequently the sign of water preceding this would convey the expression u give me water." Earth — The two hands open and extended, brought hori- zontally near each other opposite to either knee, then car- ried to the opposite side, and raised in a curve movement, until brought round and opposite to the face. Cold, or Air — The right hand held perpendicularly upwards, and brought forwards with a tremulous or vibratory motion, until it passes beyond the face. Big, great, or large — The two hands open placed wide apart on each side of the body, and moved forwards. 392 Expedition to the Fear, to be afraid, to cause fear — The two hands with the fingers turned inwards opposite to the lower ribs, then brought upwards with a tremulous movement, as if to represent the common idea of the heart rising up to the throat, the three last signs placed in the order given, would convey the idea of a violent hurricane. Moon — The thumb and finger open are elevated towards the right ear; this last sign is generally preceded by the sign of the night, or darkness. Htat — The two hands raised as high as the head, and bend- ing forwards horizontally, with the points of the fingers cur- ving a little downwards. Clear — The hands are uplifted and spread both ways from the head. Thunder — The sign of rain, accompanied by the voice imitating the rumbling sound of thunder. Lightning — First the sign ox thunder, then open, or sepa- rate the hands, and lastly bring the right hand down towards the earth, in the centre of the opening just made. Male and female — Note, to distinguish between the male and female, in all cases add for the male a fillip with the fore finger of the right hand on the cheek, and for the female bring the two hands open towards the breast, the fingers ap- proaching, and then move them outwards. Gelt — Bring the fingers and thumb of the left hand toge- ther as if something was held by them, then approach the right hand, and make the motion of cutting across what is suppos- ed to be held in the left hand, and then draw off the right hand, as if pulling away what has been cut. Dunghill fowl — Bring the thumb and fingers of the right hand together, and holding the hand moderately elevated, move it across imitating the motion of the head of a cock in walking. Turkey — The open hands brought up opposite to the shoul- ders, and imitating slowly the motion of the wings of a bird, to which add the last sign. Rocky Mountains. 393 Duck — The last sign, then the sign of water, and lastly the sign of swimming, which last is performed by the fore finger of the right hand extended outwards, and moved to and fro. Horse — The right hand with the edge downwards, the fingers joined, the thumb recumbent, extended forwards. Deer — The right hand extended upwards by the right ear, with a quick puff from the mouth. Man — With the fore finger of the right hand extended, and the hand shut, describe a line, beginning at the pit of the stomach, and passing down the middle of the body as far as the hand conveniently reaches, holding the hand a moment between the lower extremities. Woman — The finger and thumb of the right hand partly open, and placed as if laying hold of the breast. Child — Bring the fingers and thumb of the right hand, and place them against the lips, then draw them away, and bring the right hand against the fore of the left, as if holding an infant. Should the child be male, prefix the sign of a man before the last sign, and if a female, do so by the sign of the woman. Boy — Bring the fingers and thumb of the right hand to touch the lips, then extend the hands and make the sign of man, then raise the hand with the fingers upwards, placed at the height of a boy. Girl — Begin with the above sign, and make the sign of woman, and then raise the hand to the height of the girl. Tou — The hand held upwards obliquely, and pointing for- ward. He, or another — The fore fingers extended, and the hands shut, and fingers brought over one another, or nearly touch- ing, and then separated moderately quick. Many or much — The flat of the right hand patting on the back of the left hand; which is repeated in proportion to the greater or lesser quantity. Know — The fore finger of the right hand, held up nearly VOL. I. 50 394 Expedition to the opposite to the nose, and brought with a half turn to the right and carried a little outwards. Place any of the articles before the last sign; which will then signify, I know, you know, he knowsj — both hands being made use of in the man- ner described, implies to know much. Now, or at present — The two hands forming each a hol- low, and brought near each other, and put in a tremulous motion upwards and downwards. Come here — The hand stretched outwards, with the palm under, and brought back with a curve motion downwards, and inclining to the body. Go — The back of the hand stretched out and upwards. What say you — The palm of the hand upwards, and car- ried circularly outwards and depressed. No, nothing, I have none — The hand held up before the face, with the palm outwards, and vibrated to and fro. From whence come you, say —First the sign of you, then the hand extended open and drawn to the breast; and lastly, the sign of, what say you? Come — The fore finger moved from right to left, with an interrupted .motion, as if imitating the alternate movement of stepping. Mine — The hand shut and held up to the view. House — The hand half open, and the fore finger extended and separated, then raising the hand upwards, and give it a half turn, as if screwing something. Done, or finished— The. hands placed edge up and down, parallel to each other, the right hand without, which latter is drawn back, as if cutting something. Spring season — The sign of cold, to which add the last sign of being done or finished. Body — The hands with the fingers pointed to the lower part of the body, and then drawn upwards. Hair— 'The movement of combing. Rocky Mountains. 395 III. INDIAN SPEECHES. [Referred to as note A in page 163.] Speeches of Pawnees, Pawnee Loups, and Pawnee Repub- licans, at a council held at the Engineer Cantonment Oc- tober, 1819. In concluding his address, on opening the Pawnee coun- cil, Major O'Fallon requested them, if any subject rested heavily on their minds, to come forward and express them- selves without fear. Long-hair (Tarrarecawaho,) immedi- ately arose, and with a firm step placed himself in the mid- dle of the area. He stood for a short time immoveable, then slowly advanced nearer to the agent, and with a very loud, powerful voice, fierce countenance, and vehement gesticula- tion, thus addressed him : Father, The Master of Life placed me on this land, and what should I fear? nothing. You are a chief, and I am a chief. Father, Look at me, and see if I deceive you, when I say that I have but one intention, and that is a good one. Father, My heart is strong, I say, my heart is strong. Father, Those who robbed and whipped your people I did not see, I was not present. Father, Those Republican Pawnees are bad people, they have injured the whites, but I have not, and that is the reason why I am not afraid to see you. Father, We are fond of pipes, we like to travel to our neighbouring nations, and smoke with them. Father, I am desirous to go now, and hunt the buffaloe, but when the grass comes up in the Spring, I hope to see you again. Father, This medal which you see on my neck, is my father's image. It is dear to me, because he presented, and placed it on my neck. Father, Wherever I have been to visit my father, (Gover- 396 Expedition to the nor Clarke,) or my fathers, I have heard good talk, and mine has been good also, but there are many here who will not give ear to their words. Father, I am happy to hear, what you say about peace ; that we particularly desire, especially with the whites. Father, Affairs have been bad. I am not a child, I listen- ed to the talk you sent to us, and was therefore not afraid to come and see you. Those whites, and all those people around me, I consider as my children, and am glad to see them. I tell you that I am poor ; who is the cause of it? not my- self, it is my young men. That is all I have to say. I give you my hand. La-ceech-ne-sha-ru, the Knife-chief, a Pawnee Loup. Father, Here I am before you. You see me. I am poor. Father, I am a Pawnee wolf, and those you see there (pointing to his band), are Pawnee wolves. Father, Look at my people, and see if they have any thing belonging to a white man. Father, I tell you the truth. I am poor. Father, Amongst my people, I believe, there is not an in- dividual that has injured you. If any one of the other bands can say they have, let them speak. Father, This medal which hangs upon my breast, I receiv- ed from my red-headed father below ( Governor Clarke). I listened to his words, and on my return I told them to my people, and they believed. Father, You see that I am old, but I do not recollect that myself, or any of my people, ever injured any of the whites. Father, Neither my hands, nor those of my young men, have ever been stained with the blood of the Americans. Father, That is the reason why I have come to listen again in the words of my father. Father, That is all I have to say. I have finished. Rocky Mountains. 397 Major O- Fallon. Grand Pawnees, and Pawnee Republicans ; I am not sa- tisfied with what you have said. What you have said is good, but it is not enough. Until you drive those dogs from among you, I will not consider you in any other light than as dogs. Pa-ne-ca-he-ga, Fool Robe's son, a Pawnee Republican. Father, I am a Pawnee Republican. Father, What you have said is true, the Pawnee Repub- licans are dogs, they do not listen with their ears. Father, I have never done ill to a white man myself, I have never even taken a knife from him, and my heart is distressed because my young people will not listen. Father, It is true what Tar-ra-re-ca-wa-ho has said, that we whipped two white men ; we did do it. Father, I am poor, I say, I am poor. Father, It is true that it is customary for my people to rob white men, when they go to war, but I never knew them to kill one. Father, My heart is distressed because my young men will not listen, they have no ears. Father, The offenders have not ears ; they were afraid to come and see you, knowing they had done wrong. Father, I came without fear, on a good horse, which I present to you. My people were afraid that I should come. Father, I am without fear. I said, when I set out from my village, why should I fear, if my father strikes me, it is no more than a father does to his child. Father, We are glad to hear your words ; we will make peace ; we will return to our village, and see what those dogs will do. - Father, That is all I have to say. I have done. Chief of the Tappage band of the Grand Pawnees. Father, I have come to see you ; here I am, very poor. 398 Expedition to the Father, I have seen my father below, and this is my great father, I wear round my neck. Father, When he put this about my neck I heard what he said to me, and have recollected it. Father, Our young people will not attend to what we say; we talk and repeat to them, but when they lie down, they forget all before midnight. Father, You ought to have heard, whether my band have injured you or not. Father, There was a time, when our hands were red with the blood of your people, but since we have been below, it has been washed off. Father, We visited our father below; he told us, when we met a white man to treat him well, and let him never fear. Father, I see you are looking on me ; I am poor ; 1 have nothing on me of the make of the whites ; I have even turn- ed my buffaloe robe to hide its tarnish. Father, I came here to listen to your words, to hear what you have told us. Father, You say there is a God above. I know it, when he is angry I hear him speak, (alluding to the thunder.) Father, I consider you equal to him. You are the same to me. Father, All you see here are your children; they are poor. Father, That is all I have to say. Major O-Fallon. Pawnee chiefs and soldiers ; I called you here to adjust the difference that is between us. I called you here to bring the articles which were stolen from my people. I have not yet seen them. I called you here to bring the dogs that stole them ; but I have not seen them ; I hope that you have brought them. My eyes have been looking for them, and my ears have been listening, but I am not satisfied. Rocky Mountains. 399 The following articles were now given up. One buffaloe robe, one horse, one pair double barrelled pis- tols, one bird bag, one tomahawk, one axe, one powder flask, one shot bag. Fool Robe's son said, there are many articles lost, which my people took from you, and two of the horses gave out on the road, a few miles from this place.* Long-hair. Those, who did the mischief, did not come. They were afraid. Here are two of their chiefs. Major O'Fallon. Pawnee chiefs and warriors ; I wish to know whether or not you are able to punish the offenders ; whether or not there are good people enough amongst you, to punish them. Our soldiers are anxious to march against you, but the chiefs re- strain them, lest they injure the innocent. That is the reason why I wish to know if you are not able to punish the bad. Our people do not wish to spill innocent blood. Therefore I desire to place their punishment in your own hands. I have come to this land, not to spill blood, but to prevent its flowing. I have come to give you rest, and peace, and happiness, not to make war. If your arms are not strong enough, come forward and say so j if you are not chiefs, say so. Pawnees, if I were to see our troops marching towards your nation, tears would fall from my eyes ; because I be- lieve that there are some good men among you, whose blood would immediately flow. Red-skins have called us cowards when we have hesitated to spill blood, when it ought to have been spilt. Even some of your chiefs have insulted our peo- ple, thinking they would not resent it. I tell you, Pawnees, that we are tired of submitting to insults. My nation is most * One of the horses has been since found. 400 Expedition to the powerful, and that is the reason why the Great Spirit re- strains our arm. Come forward, you chiefs, and let me know what is the strength of your arm ; my ears are anxious to hear ; say, be- fore it is too late, whether you can govern your people or not. Pe-ta-le-sha-roo, Republican chief. Father, I am not afraid of these people, these Pawnees you see here. They have never struck me with a whip ; (meaning, that when he has chastised his people they have not retaliated upon him.) Father, I have travelled through all the nations below; they have not injured me. Father, I have seen people travel in blood. I have travel- led in blood myself, but it was the blood of red-skins, no others. Father, I have been in all the nations round about, and I have never feared a red-skin. Father, I have seen the time when blood flowed upon the ground. It drew tears from many eyes. But I went down to visit my father, (Governor Clarke,,) and returned contented. Father, a have no longer a desire for war. I delight to sit in peace. Father, When I went to see my father below, although there was danger in the way, I was not afraid to go alone. Father, But I am now like a squaw, and instead of carry- ing the mark of a man, I have that of a woman. Father, My right arm, and that half of my body is white man, and the other only Indian. Father, When I returned from below, I related to my people what I had seen, but none of them had ears, they would not hear me. Father, I have often traded with the whites. I always traded fairly, while the Pawnee Loups did not. Here is a trader who knows me, (Mr. Pappan.) Rocky Mountains. 401 Father, We will punish the offenders. It is very easy; it is not difficult at all. Father, I will score the back of him who cut your tent. Father, It is some time since I have worn this on my neck ; I have kept it secreted, because they will not respect it. Father, After our battles with the people around us, I have gone alone, crying into their villages, and have received no harm, fin other words, Indians have forgiven me for spill- ing their blood, then why should not the magnanimity of the whites forgive the comparative trifling injuries I have done them.) Father, When the war party, that robbed your people., re- turned, I was not told of this act. If I had known it, and had demanded the articles, perhaps they would have been given up to me ; but they are now so widely distributed that it is impossible to collect them all. Father, I have never yet whipped my people, but I intend to begin now. I will punish the offenders as soon as I return home. Father, I am glad to see you writing down all that has been said. When a man dies, his actions are forgotten, but when they are written down, it is not so. Father, Some among us have had difficulty with the tra- ders, because they would give but very little vermiilion, &c. for our furs. Father, When I have seen a person poor, and i had a horse to spare, or a blanket, I have given it to him. Father, From this day I undergo a change ; I am now an American, and you shall hear that it is true. Father, If you hear of my being whipped when I return to my village, consider yourself the cause of it, for I will whip those dogs that insulted you, as you desire me. Father, You love your children, I love mine. Father, Be quick, do what you have to do. Tf you intend to punish us, let us know it. vol. r. 51 402 Expedition to the (This is an artful, politic, Indian, If he is sincere in what he has here said, his change has been a sudden one. When Mr- Dougherty delivered the talk sent by Major O'Fallon to this people, in their village, demanding the stolen articles, &c. this man ridiculed him, saying, that for his part he had nothing but an old pair of shoes that the Red-head had given him, and which he would return.) Major O-Fallon, Do you wish to see our warriors among you, to punish these people. I do not wish to see them among you. You, chief of the Pawnee Republicans, (addressing the last speak- er,) you say you are able to punish them ; I am in hopes that you have not lied ; if you have, we must do it ourselves. If my eyes cannot see you punish them, my ears must tell me you have done it — Yes! my ears must tell me it has been well done, that you have given two stripes for every one that those two unfortunate traders have suffered. And you, Long-hair, that have so strong an arm, assist him lest our warriors should be obliged to visit you, when yourself might not be distinguished from the others. I do not yet know you as chiefs, but I wish to know you as such ; I want to have some proofs that you are chiefs. When I learn that you have punished those who have done wrong, as our chiefs punish, then I will recognize you. You tell me that your stomachs are empty. I will give you something to fill them. You show me your naked shin ; my heart will not let me clothe it, until this difference is settled. Were I to smoke with you on this day, the smoke would not rise ; it would fall to the ground. When I shall be able to cover what is past, and to forget it ; when I smile upon you in shaking hands, then per- haps I may give you something to eat and to smoke. I come not to beg your friendship ; I come not to ask your land or your skins ; I ask nothing of you. Pawnees! I wish to be at peace with you, and all the red-skins, I tell you again. I Rocky Mountains, • 403 know that the Great Spirit has done little for you ; he has done much for us. I come to do something for you, when I see you willing to do something for yourselves. I come to give you advice to enable you to live happily, to calm your troubled minds, and to give peace to your troubled heads. If in reality you punish those who have offended, and my ears tell me so, I will take you by the hand and smoke with you ; but if your ears are unwilling to hear my words, close your ears and do not hear them. I will work a change among you, Red-skins, and when my arm fails, my bones shall whiten on your plains, for my na- tion to come and bury. Pawnee Loups, before you leave this place, I will give you something to make your hearts glad. Long-hair, if you would make me believe, that you are disposed to behave well, treat those good people f the Pawnee Loups) that reside with you, kindly. Your arm is stronger than theirs ; do not raise it against them, unless they insult you. I hope the day is not far distant, when I shall be able to smile on your people, as I now smile on them. Pawnees, when you find yourselves unable to punish those dogs among you, think that you hear the sound of those bu- gles from the hills near your village. Presents were now made to the Pawnee Loups ; but to the others only a little tobacco was given, and no chiefs were recognised. CHAPTER XVII. Journey by land from St. Louis to Council Bluff—- Grand Riv- er— Plains at the sources of the Little Platte^ the Nishne- bottona, &?<:. — Departure of the Expedition from Engineer Cantonment. While the transactions above detailed were passing, Ma- jor Long had returned from the seat of Government. On the 24th of April 1820, he arrived at St. Louis, on his Way from Philadelphia to Council Bluff, to rejoin the party. He was accompanied by Captain John R. Bell, attached to the exploring Expedition by order from the War Depart- ment, and by Dr. E. James, who had been appointed to serve as botanist and geologist, in consequence of recommen- dations from the Honourable Secretary of the Navy, from Dr. Torrey and Captain Le Conte. Having procured horses, and equipped ourselves for a journey in the wilderness, we left St. Louis on the 4th of May, intending to proceed by the most direct route across the country to Council Bluff. The lands immediately in the rear of St. Louis, between the Mississippi and the Missouri, below their junction, have an undulated surface, and a deep alluvial soil. Since their occupation by permanent inhabitants, the yearly ravages of fire have been prevented, and a dense growth of oaks and elms has sprung up. In this fact we have a satisfactory explanation of the cause of the present want of forest trees in extensive tracts on the Missouri, which appear, in every respect, adapted to the growth of timber. If these lands, called prairies, were at any former period covered with forests, it may easily be sup- Expedition, fcfc. 405 posed, the yearly devastations of fires breaking out in dry seasons, would destroy many of the trees. The forests being thus broken, the growth of grasses and annual plants would be greatly facilitated by the nakedness of the soil, and the free admission of the rays of the sun. Forests attract rain, and impede evaporation, while the reverberation from the surface of vast plains, and deserts, tends to dissipate the clouds and vapours which are driven over them by the winds. In fertile districts like the alluvial lands of the Missouri and Mississippi, a heavy annual growth of herbaceous plants is produced, which, after the autumnal frosts, becomes dry and peculiarly adapted to facilitate and extend the ravages of fire. In a country occupied by hunters, who are kindling their camp fires in every part of the forest, and who often, like the Mongalls in the grassy deserts of Asia, set fire to the plains, in order to attract herbivorous animals, by the growth of tender and nutritious herbage which springs up soon after the burning, it is easy to see these annual conflagrations could not fail to happen. In the Autumn of 1819 the burnings, owing to the unusual drought, continued until very late in the season, so that the weeds in the low grounds were consumed, to the manifest injury of the forests. Large bodies of timber are so frequent- ly destroyed in this way, that the appearance has become familiar to hunters, and travellers, and has received the name of deadening. After the burning of the grass in the open prairies, the wind, which, at that season, usually blows with great strength from the northwest, carries off the ashes from the general surface into the hollows and small vallies, thus contributing to enrich the latter at the expense of the former.* The prairie appears to have heretofore extended almost without interruption, for several miles in the rear of St. Lou- is. The western portions of it are yet naked meadows, with- * See Wells On the Origin of Prairies, in the 4th number of Silliman's Journal, 406 Expedition to the out trees or bushes. As we followed the little pathway towards Bon Homme we passed large tracts, to which the labours of the sand rat* had given the aspect of a ploughed * Genus Pseudostoma.* Say. Cheek-pouches exterior to the mouth; incisores naked, truncated; molares sixteen, destitute of radicles; crown simple, oval; anterior ones double. Species, Pseudostoma bursaria. Body sub-cylindrical, covered with reddish-brown hair, which is plumbeous at base; feet white, anterior nails elongated, posterior ones short, and concave beneath. J\lus bursarius, (Shaw Trans. Lin. Soc. Lond. and Genl. Zoology.) Body elongated, sub-cylindrical; hair reddish-brown, plumbeous at base; beneath rather paler; cheek pouches capacious, covered with hair, both within and without; vibrissa? numerous, slender, whitish; eyes black; ears hardly promineat; feel five-toed, white; anterior pair robust, with large, elongated, somewhat compressed nails, exposing the bone on the inner side, middle nail much longest, then the fourth, then the second, then the fifth, the first being very short; posterior feet slender, nails concave be- neath, rounded at tip, the exterior one very small; tail short, hairy at base, nearly naked towards the tip. This animal is congeneric with the Tucan of Hernandez, which Buffon erroneously considers the same as the Talpha rubra Americana of Seba, or Talpha rubra Lin., an animal which is however entirely out of the question, and which, if we may be allowed to judge from Seba's figure, is so far from having any specific affinity with the bursarius, that it cannot now be regarded as co-ordinate with it. The late professor B. S. Barton, in his Medical and Physical Journal, says, that a species of Jllus allied to the J\l. bursarius of Shaw, is common in Georgia and Florida, that he examined a living specimen of this animal, and was convinced, that it is no other than the Tucan of Hernandez, and the Tuza or Tozan of Clavigero. He says nothing of its size, but on the same page he remarks, that " another species of Mus, much larger than the Tuza, inhabits west of the Mississippi about latitude 30°, of which verv little is known." Dr. Barton was aware that the cheek pouches, in the figures given by Shaw, are represented in an inverted position, but not having seen specimens from the trans-Mississippi country, he was unac- quainted with their specific identity with those of Canada, from which those figures were drawn. In our zoological reports to Major Long, in the year 1C19, the specimens which we found on the Missouri were recorded under the name of bursarius of Shaw. Coxe, in his description of " Caro- lana called Florida, and of the Meschacebe", in 1741, mentions a "rat with a bag under its throat, wherein it conveys its young when forced to fly." Several other writers have noticed these animals, of whom Dr. Mitchell, in Silliman's Journal, 1821, mentions the ideutity of specimens obtained beyond Lake Superior, with the M. bursarius of Shaw. The animals belonging to this genus are distinguished by their volumi- nous cheek-pouches, which are perfectly exterior to the mouth, from which * From -{ivSu, false; and a-Toy.*, a mouth, in allusion to the false mouths or cheek-pouches. Rocky Mountains, 407 field. From the great quantities of fresh earth recently brought up, we perceived the little animals were engaged in enlarging their subterranean excavations, and we watched long, though in vain, expecting to see them emerge from their burrows. It is probable the jarring of the earth under the hoofs of our horses, by giving early notice of our ap- proach, prevented them from appearing at the surface. In our way we passed the large hepatic spring visited by Mr. Jessup, and described in his report. It rises in the bed of a large brook, and diffuses a strong sulphurous odour they are separated by the common integument, they are profoundly con- cave, opening downwards, and towards the mouth. The incisores which are not covered by the lips, but are alwa)'s exposed to view, are strong and truncated in their entire width at tip; the superior ones are each marked by a deep, longitudinal groove near the middle, and by a smaller one at the inner margin. The molares, to the number of eight in each jaw, penetrate to the base of their respective alveoles, with- out any division into roots, as in the genus Arcicola, Lepus, &c. their crown is simplydiscoidal, transversely oblong oval, margined by the enam- el, and in general form they resemble the teeth of a Lepus, but without the appearance either of a groove at their ends, or of a dividiog crest of enamel; the posterior tooth is rather more rounded than the others, and that of the upper jaw has a small prominent angle on its posterior face; the anterior tooth is double, in consequence of a profound duplicature in its side, so that its crown presents two oval disks, of which the anterior one is smaller, and in the lower jaw somewhat angulated. All the molares of the lower jaw incline obliquely forward, and those of the superior jaw ob- liquely backward. The whole animal has a clumsy aspect, having a large head and body, with short legs, large fore feet, and small hind feet; and although it walks awkwardly, yet it burrows with the greatest rapidity, so that the difficulty of obtaining specimens may be, in a great degree, attributed to the facility with which the animal passes through the soil, in removing from the vicini- ty of danger. They cast up mounds of loose earth, which, like those of the blind rat, (Spalax typhlus) have no exterior opening. These elevations have been aptly compared, by Lewis and Clark, to such heaps of earth, as would be formed by the emptying of the loose contents of a flower-pot upon the soil. The mounds are of various dimensions, from the diameter of a few inches only, to that of several yards; the quantity of earth employed consequent- ly varies from a pint to two or three bushels. So entirely subterraneau is the life of this animal that it is rarely seen; and many persons have lived for many years surrounded by their little edifices, without knowing the singular being by whose labours they are produced. Itis known by the names of sand rat, goffer, pouched-rat, salamander, $c. 408 Expedition to the perceptible at a distance of one hundred yards. It probably derives its mineral impregnation from some decomposition in the alluvial substances, through which it rises to the sur- face. Eight or ten miles west of St. Louis, forests of oak and hickory begin to occur, and become more frequent towards Alexandria and Bon Homme. At evening we descended into the deep cotton-wood forests of the Missouri bottom, and a little before sunset arrived on the bank of that majes- tic river. Here we were politely received, and entertained in the house of a gentleman formerly of New York. A large and splendid collection of books, several articles of costly furniture, and above all, manners and conversation, like those of the better classes in our cities, formed here a striking con- trast to the rude and solitary cabin, and the wild features of nature, in a spot where the labours of men had as yet pro- duced scarce a perceptible change. On the ensuing morning, May 5th, we crossed the Mis- souri above Bon Homme. The forests on the north side of the Missouri were here narrow, and confined principally to the vallies. Pond fort where we halted to dine, was at this time the residence of a single family. In the late war, the inhabitants of the surrounding country had collected their families, and their cattle, at this place, building their temporary residences in the form of a hollow square, within which their cattle and horses were enclosed at night. In the pond, which lies along the north side of the fort, the nelumbium was growing in great perfection. Its broad orbicular leaves are somewhat raised from the water, almost concealing its surface. Its showy yellow flower, when fully expanded, is larger, as remarked by Nuttall, than that of any other plant indigenous to the United States, except the Magnolia macrophylla. The nuts, of which there are several immersed in the receptacle of each flower, have, when ripe, Rocky Mountains, 409 the size, and the general appearance of small acorns, but are much more palatable. . The large farinaceous root is some- times used by the Indians as an article of diet, as are also the nuts. Our path lay through extensive and fertile meadows, stretching away to the distant horizon, and bounded some- times by the verge of the sky, and sometimes by the margin of a forest. The elk, the deer, and the bison, the indigenous inhabitants of these delightful meadows, had been long since driven away by the incursions of the white settlers, scattered at remote intervals on the borders of the forests. The dense and uniform growth of grass, had risen untrodden and un- cropped, and was now waving with ceaseless undulations, as the wind swept lightly over the surface of the plain. The slender and graceful panicles of the Heuchera Americana rising above the grass, resembled a grove of spears, bristling above the heads of an embattled host. Along the margins of the brooks, we noticed the beautiful spiraea opulifolia, and a slender species of viburnum, bending under their clusters of snowy flowers. Through the day, the weather had been fine but warm. At sunset a thunder storm rose in the west, and the day was succeeded, almost without any interval of twilight, by the most impenetrable darkness. The wind soon rose to a tempest, and hailstones of uncommon magnitude, began to fall, accompanied with thunder and lightning. Our first thought was to dismount from our horses, and shelter our- selves from the hail, on the leeward side of their bodies. We were in the middle of an extensive prairie, where no other protection could be looked for. The hailstones, how- ever, diminished in size, and soon ceased to fall, but such torrents of rain ensued, that the plain became inundated, and the frequent flashes of lightning, were reflected to our eyes, from the surface of a vast lake. The plains in many places having little inclination, the water of a sudden shower is VOL. i. 52 410 Expedition to the drained off less rapidly than it falls. After raging with great violence for a short time the storm ceased; but the darkness was so intense, that we did not arrive at the settlement, where we proposed to lodge, until a late hour in the night. Soon after crossing the Missouri, we had ascended so far as to reach the general level of the great woodless plain, and after travelling a few miles, we found the surface sloping to the northeast towards the Mississippi. In the afternoon, we crossed the Darden which enters the Mississippi eight miles above the mouth of the Illinois, and on the following morn- ing the Cuivre, tributary to the same river, ten miles above the other. The point between the Missouri and Mississippi, near their confluence, is raised in the highest parts, prubably less than one hundred and fifty feet above the water table. It is of a deep and fine soil, which would appear rather to have subsided from the waters of a quiet ocean, than to have been brought down from above, and deposited in its present situation by the rivers. Between the sources of the streams which descend from either side of this narrow cape, extends an irregular tongue of land, destitute of timber, and every where nearly of the same elevation; as if it had been a part of the great plain, left naked at the retiring of the ocean, and in which the vast vallies of the Missouri and Mississippi, had since been excavated by the operations of those streams. The smaller rivers of this region, appear, both in extent and direction, to have been wholly independent of any peculiar conformation of the original surface, on which they commenced their course, and their present beds gradu- ally deepening and descending in the nearest direction, to- wards the vallies of the great rivers, are in every respect such as we may suppose to have resulted from the wearing away of a great and uniform plain. At a house where we rested in the middle of the day, and which was in the high- est part of the country between the Missouri and Missibsip- pi, here sixty miles distant from each other, a well had been Rocky Mountains. 411 sunk sixty-five feet without finding water. This well passes through several strata of loam, clay, and sand, then through a narrow horizontal bed, of that peculiar substance, called chalk, by Mr. Schoolcraft;* which is here intermixed with numerous angular fragments of flints, and terminates at the surface of a stratum of blue compact limestone, abounding in organic remains. We were informed, that among other things brought up from this well, were masses of carbonized wood, bearing the marks of the axe. But as these could not be found, we thought it reasonable to attribute some part of the account to the active imagination of the narrator. From the divide at the sources of the Cuivre, we over- looked an extensive tract of undulating meadow, and could distinguish on the distant horizon, the wide valley, and the extensive forests of Loutre lick. This stream is the first deserving notice, which enters the Missouri from the north. Its sources are several miles to the northwest of those of the Cuivre. In its valley the rocky substrata of the plain are exposed, for an extent of many miles. Near Van Babber's, where we arrived a little before sunset on the 6th, there is, in the middle of the creek, a large brine spring. Over this has been placed a section of the hol- low trunk of a tree, to prevent the intermixture of the fresh water of the creek. The sandstone, from which this spring issues, is granulated and glimmering, like that about the old lead mines of St. Michael. Like that, it is in horizontal strata, and exhibits sufficient evidence of being a continuation of the same stra- tum. Perceiving the same indications of fossil coal, lead, and other minerals here, as were known to exist in the same range of country on the other side of the Missouri, we listened with a credulity which seemed rather to disappoint and surprise our host, to his account of the phenomena, that had appeared from time to time in his neighbourhood. The * Views of the Lead Mines, pp. 130, 227. 412 Expedition to the combustion of a coal-bed, or the decomposition of a mass of pyrites, has, we believe, given rise to many more astonishing stories than he related. He gave an account of several luminous appearances that had been seen at the breaking up of winter, or in unusually rainy seasons, or at other times of the year. These had been witnessed by many persons of unquestionable veracity, but so great had been their terror on the occasion, that they could never afterwards recollect the precise spot, where the light had appeared to them. He told us of two itinerant preachers who had encountered an indescribable phenomenon, at a place about nine miles east of Loutre lick. As they were riding side by side at a late hour in the evening, one of them requested the other, to observe a ball of fire attached to the end of his whip. No sooner was his attention directed to this object, than a similar one began to appear on the other end of the whip. In a moment afterwards, their horses and all objects near them were enveloped in wreaths of flame. By this time the minds of the itinerant preachers were so much confounded, that they were no longer capable of ob- servation, and could therefore give no further account of what happened. He also stated as a fact, authenticated by many credible witnesses, that a very considerable tract of land near by, had heen seen to send up vast volumes of smoke, which rose through the light and porous soil, like the smoke through the covering of a coal-pit. This had in one instance been witnessed by a son of the celebrated Col. Boon, and was at first mistaken for a prairie on fire. This phenomenon also occurs at the breaking up of winter, or at such seasons as the earth is drenched by uncommon quanti- ties of rain. Within a few miles of the Lick, are eight or nine rude furnaces disposed in the direction of a straight line, extend- ing about two miles. He stated, that it was not known by whom, or when they were built, nor could it be ascertained Rocky Mountains. 413 for what purpose. It was evident they had been .used, but no slag cinders or any thing of the kind had ever been found, nor was it possible to conjecture for what purpose the fur- naces had been constructed. We regarded all these accounts and many others of a similar character, as a sort of tradi- tionary evidence of the accidental discovery, at some former time, of lead, coal, or pyrites, and that this discovery by the ignorance and credulity of the people, had been magnified into an object, to which they had at length learned to ascribe a mysterious and indefinite importance. Immediately ahout Loutre lick the surface was rocky and uneven, low cliffs of light gray sandstone, fringed with tufts of the dark green Pteris atropurpurea, and the black stiped asplenium, overhung the margin of the brook, where the in- conspicuous flowers of the prinos lsevigatus and zanthoxvlon fraxineum, and the blue spikes of the amorpha fruticosa, were just expanding. Beyond Loutre lick, the road traverses, longitudinally, that great woodless plain thirty miles in length, called the Grand Prairie. It varies in width from one to ten or fifteen miles. The soil is deep and fertile, closely covered with grasses interspersed with a proportion of gaudy euchromias and lichnedias, with the purple and yellow pedicularia, the tradescantia, and many beautiful astragali. At Thrall's settlement, sixty miles above Loutre lick, the floerkea proserpinacoides* is found in great abundance, in open fields and by the road side, reclining its flexile and de- licate stem upon the species of bidens, polyonum &c, com- mon in such situations. It grows much larger here than at Albany, the only locality where we have met with it east of the Mississippi, and its leaves, instead of being quinate, are usually composed of six leafits. In neither place does it show any preference to marshy grounds, as the newly proposed * Willdenow. F. palustris. Nuttall. 414 Expedition to the name, pnlustris, would seem to imply. Our course, inclining considerably towards the Missouri, made it necessary to leave the elevated region of the plains and betake ourselves to the forests, soon after passing the Grand prairie. In these forests the linden, the hop horn beam, maple, beech, and ash, attain an uncommon magnitude. The blue beech, (ostrya virginica) sometimes occurs, and is of a larger growth than in New England. Extensive and very accessible beds of coal have been open- ed near Thrall's plantation. The inhabitants assert that, in sinking wells the trunks of large trees have been met with, at a great depth below the surface. We could, however, dis- cover no satisfactory confirmation of this statement. The soil appeared to us to exhibit no evidence of having been dis- turbed at any period, since the deposition of the coal beds, and the accompanying sandstones. - On the 8th of June we arrived at Franklin. Here we de- layed several days, in the expectation of receiving from Washington some farther instructions, and the supply of funds necessary for the prosecution of the duties of the expe- dition. Having anxiously awaited one weekly arrival of the mail, and being disappointed of the expected communica- tions, Major Long resolved to continue the journey, and to proceed in the accomplishment of the services assigned him, as far as the means then at his command would allow. As the great part of our proposed route to Council Bluff lay through the wilderness, we now thought it necessary to pro- cure two horses in addition to those we already had, one of them to be loaded with provisions, and the other for the use of a man, whom we had engaged to accompany us. We left Franklin on the 14th, and proceeding by a rugged and circuitous road across a tract of hilly forests, arrived at Charaton the same evening. From Charaton to the mouth of Grand river, the trace, as the paths are here called, passes through a tract of low allu- Rocky Mountains. 41* vial lands, partly covered with forests, but all extremely fer- tile. Here we were to take leave of the settlements, and to pursue the remainder of our journey through the wilderness, after dining in the cabin of a settler, we crossed Grand river, and betook ourselves to the course we thought proper to pur- sue, through a tangled and pathless forest. This brought us after a few hours, to the border of an extensive plain- Our horses, somewhat unaccustomed to travelling in woods, and particularly the pack-horse being young and untutored, gave us much trouble. After ascending into the prairie, as the night came on, we were compelled to go a mile or two off from our course, in search of water and wood for our encampment; at length finding a suitable place on the bank of a small stream, called Doe creek, discharging into Grand river, we kindled a fire, cooked, and ate our supper of bacon, pilot bread and coffee, and as we had no tent, spread our blankets under the shelter of a large tree and laid ourselves down to rest. The hooting of owls, together with the howling of wolves, and the cries of other nocturnal animals, as we were yet unaccustomed to them, occasionally interrupted our slumbers. On the follow- ing morning, however, we found ourselves well refreshed, and were prepared to resume our journey at an early hour. The road known by the name of Field's trace, ascends from Charaton on the east ude of Grand river, about sixty miles, thence running nearly northwest through the immense plains of the Little Platte, the Nishnebottona, and the Mos- quito river, to Council Bluff, At the mouth of Grand river we had learned, that the eastern tributaries of that stream were much swollen, and were therefore difficult to cross; ac- cordingly we determined to ascend along the ridge between that river and the Little Platte, until we should fall in with the trace. We were detained several hours in searching for a place, where we might cross Doe creek. Though a very inconsi- 416 Expedition to the derable stream, its steep muddy banks were now almost filled, by the reflux occasioned by the freshet in the Missouri. It was not without great difficulty we at length effected a pas- sage, at a point three miles distant from our encampment, thence directing our course by the compass, we travelled north, 45° west, twenty-two miles. In this distance we cross- ed three large creeks, two of them running eastward into Grand river, the other westward to the Wahconda, In the plains we met with nothing to obstruct travelling. They had been perfectly denudated by the burning of the last season, and the annual growth of grasses and weeds, had as yet risen but about a foot from the ground. Among the grasses are intermixed great numbers of the legumina, with pinnated leaves, and these are so commonly canescent as to give their peculiar silvery colour to the whole plain. This effect is the more striking, when a slight breeze agitates the leaves of the numerous species of astragalus, psoralen, bap- tisia, and the beautiful amorpha canescens, all of which have their inferior surfaces beset with a shining silk-like down. In the afternoon of the 14th, a storm of rain commenced, which continued with little intermission for several days. Having no tent we were much exposed to the weather, but at night we constructed a partial shelter, by stretching our blankets over the spot on which we laid down to rest. As we approached the sources of Grand river, the coun- try became more hilly. Horizontal limestone, like that about St. Louis, appears in the sides of the deep vallies. In the scanty soils along these declivities, the ferula fce- niculacea sometimes occurs, diffusing its powerful and pecu- liar odour, perceptible after a shower at the distance of se- veral rods. 18th. — The rain of the preceding day, continued with in- creased violence during the night. Our encampment was completely inundated, and the wind so high as to render our blanket tent wholly useless. The small port folio, in which Rocky Mountains. 417 we had deposited such plants as we wished to preserve, had been placed for a pillow in the most sheltered part of the tent, and covered with a coat, but these precautions and all others we could adopt were unavailing, and the collection of plants we had then made was lost. Wishing to deviate as little as possible from the course we had assumed, and which we knew it was necessary to pur- sue, if we would follow the most direct route to Council Bluff, we descended on the 1 9th, into a broad and densely wooded valley on our left. After crossing a part of this val- ley, through heavy forests of ash, sycamore, and cotton-wood, our progress was checked by a river of some magnitude^ and so swollen and turbulent in consequence of the late rains, that we thought it advisable not to attempt the passage. We therefore relinquished our course, and being a long time de- tained in painful and fatiguing exertions to extricate our- selves from the forest, regained towards evening the open plain and encamped. We had now ascended about eighty miles from the mouth of Grand river. The country we had passed is fertile, and presents such an intermixture of forests and grassy plains, as is extremely pleasing to the eye. Towards the north the hills become gradually more and more elevated. The discontinu- ance of the horizontal limestone, the disclosure in the deep vallies of the more ancient varieties of sandstone, and the frequent occurrence in the soil of small rounded masses of granite, gneiss, and other primitive rocks, indicates an ap- proach towards the margin of the secondary basin. In the deepest vallies about the sources of Grand river, we observe a very hard semi -crystalline sandstone, in rather indistinct strata, and containing apparently few remains either of plants or animals. It is, in almost every respect, similar to that sandstone, which, in the valley of Lake Champlain, rests along the skirts of the granitic mountains of Ticonderoga, Crown Point, and Westport, and supports there a small stratum of VOL. I. 53 4 1 S Expedition to the compact limestone. Containing few fragments rounded by at- trition, being almost destitute of cement, and retaining much uniformity of character in different localities, it has a mani- fest resemblance to that most ancient of sandstones, which, in the mountains of New England, is associated with the granular limestone, and has sometimes been called granular quartz.* Indeed we have no hesitation in believing, that at some point near the sources of the De Moyen and Grand river, the primitive rocks approach near the surface. There is here a stratum of newer sandstone, superimposed upon that above noticed, and hearing marks of having been contemporaneous to some formation of coal, but it is not of sufficient thickness in the parts we examined, to justify an opinion, that it contains anv valuable beds of that mineral. Leaving the immediate neighbourhood of the river, there is an ascent of several miles, to the level of the great woodless plain. The bottom, and part of the sides of the vallies are covered with trees, but in proportion to the elevation, the surface becomes more unvaried and monotonous. These vast plains in which the eye finds no object to rest upon, are at first seen with surprise and pleasure, but their uniformity at length becomes tiresome. For a few days the weather had been fine, with cool breezes, and broken, flying clouds. The shadows of these, coursing rapidly over the plain, seemed to put the whole in motion, and we appeared to ourselves as if riding on the unquiet billows of the ocean. The surface is uniformly of the description, not inaptly called rolling, and will certainly bear a compari- son to the waves of an agitated sea. The distant shores and promontories of woodland, with here and there an insular grove of trees, rendered the illusion more complete. The great extent of country contemplated at a single view, and the unvaried sameness of the surface, made our prospect * Eaton's Index to the Geology of the Northern States. First edition. Reeky Mountains. 419 seem tedious. We pursued our course during the greater part of the day along the same wide plain, and at evening the woody point in which we had encamped en the pre- ceding night, was yet discernible. Nothing is more difficult than to estimate by the eye, the distance of objects seen in these plains. A small animaL, as a wolf or a turkey, sometimes appears of the magnitude of a horse, on account of an erroneous impression of distance. Three elk, which were the first we had seen, crossed our path at some distance before us. The effect of the mirage^ to- gether with our indefinite idea of the distance, magnified these animals to a most prodigious size. For a moment we thought we saw the mastodon of America, moving in those vast plains, which seem to have been created for his dwell- ing place. An animal seen for the first time, or any object with which the eye is unacquainted, usually appears much enlarged, and inaccurate ideas are formed of the magnitude and distance of all the surrounding objects; but if some well known animal, as a deer or a wolf, comes into the field of vi- sion so near as to be recognized, the illusions vanish, and all things return to their proper dimensions. Soon after we had left our encampment, on one of the bright sunny mornings which occurred, when we were in the country near the sources of Grand river, we discovered as we thought, several large animals feeding in the prairie, at the distance of half a mile. These we believed could be no other than bisons, and after a consultation respecting the best method of surprising them, two of our party dismounted, and creeping with great care and caution, about one-fourth of a mile through the high grass, arrived near the spot, and discovered an old turkey, with her brood of half grown young, the only animals now to be seen. On the evening of the :20th. May, we encamped in a low muddy bottom, overgrown with netdes and phacelias, but the only place we could find combining the three requis:: 420 Expedition to the grass for our horses, and wood and water for ourselves. Here we were so tormented by the mosquitoes, harassed and goaded by the wood ticks, that we were glad to seek relief by mounting our horses, at the earliest appearance of light on the following morning. The dew had been so heavy, that it was falling in drops from the grass and weeds where we bad lain, and our blankets were dripping as if they had been exposed to a shower. We proceeded on our course about thirty miles, and encamped early in the afternoon. Having ascended Grand river nearly to the point, where we believed Field's trace must cross it, we directed our course more to the west, and had already crossed several streams running to the south, supposed to be the upper branches of the Little Platte. The utmost uniformity prevails in the appearance of the country about the sources of the Little Platte, Nishnebottona, and other Northern tributaries of the Missouri. Near one of these small rivers we discovered the trace of an Indian war party, which appeared to have passed very recently to- wards the Missouri. After our arrival at Council Bluff, we had farther information of these Indians, who were a war party of Sauks and Foxes from the Mississippi, and had committed many depredations upon the Missouri Indians, and some upon the whites. We were considered very fortu- nate in not having fallen in with them, as it was believed, they would not have hesitated to rob, and perhaps destroy any party of whites as weak as ours. Remains of bisons, as bones, horns, hoofs, and the like, are often seen in these plains; and in one instance, in a low swamp surrounded by forests, we discovered the recent track of a bull, but all the herds of these animals, have deserted the country on this side of Council Bluff. The bones of elk and deer, are very numerous, particularly about certain places, which, from the great number of tent poles, scaffolds, &c, appear to be old Indian hunting camps, and the living Rocky Mountains. 421 animals are still to be found here in plenty. As we rode along these boundless meadows, every object within several miles became visible; the smallest shrub rising a few inches above the surface of the green expanse, could be seen at a mile distant.* Some large agarics and a gigantic lycoper- don peculiar to these regions, are the most conspicuous ob- jects, by which the uniformity of the plains is varied, and these may be seen sometimes at the distance of two or three miles. On the evening of the 24th, we arrived on the bank of a beautiful river, at a grove of ash and cotton-wood trees. We had scarce dismounted from our horses, when a violent thun- der shower commenced; the rain fell in such torrents as to extinguish our fire, and the wind blew so violently, that our blanket tent could afford us no protection. Many large trees were blown down in the point of woods where we lay, and one fell a few yards from our camp. As the night was ex- tremely dark, we thought the danger of moving, at least equal to that of remaining where we were, and spent part of the night in the greatest anxiety, listening to the roar of the storm, and the crashing of the timber. As our horses were dispersed about the wood, we had scarce a hope they could all escape uninjured. On the day following, after we had rode about eighteen or twenty miles, we observed the surface of the country to be- come suddenly hilly, and soon after were surprised by an unexpected view of the wide valley, the green meadows, and the yellow stream of the Missouri. A little after noon, we encamped in a meadow on the river bottom, and by ascend- ing one of the neighbouring bluffs, sufficiently elevated to overlook a large extent of the surrounding country, we were enabled to discover that we had arrived at the Missouri, at * A ceanothus smaller than C. americana, the amorpha canescens, and the symphoria racemosa, are almost the only shrubs seen in the prairies. 422 Expedition to the a point about six miles below the confluence of the great river Platte. On the precipitous and almost naked argillaceous hills, which here bound the Missouri valley, we found the oxytro- pis lambertii, and the great flowering pentstemon; two plants of jsingular beauty. Here also we saw, for the first time, the leafless prenanthes, the yellow euchromia, and many other interesting plants. It would seem that several species of plants are distributed along the course of the Missouri, but do not extend far on either side. Probably the seeds of these have been brought down from their original localities, near the sources of the river. That the distribution of plants is sometimes effected in this way, there can be no doubt, as in the instance of the portulacca with pilose leaves,* and other natives of of the high and sandy plans of the Arkansa, which are sometimes found transplanted into the deep forests and fertile soils of the hilly region; but the agency of rivers in this respect appears much less important, than without par- ticular examination, we might be inclined to imagine. In ascending the Missouri, the Arkansa, or any great river, every remove of forty or fifty miles, brings the traveller to the locality of some plants, not to be seen below. This is perhaps less the case with rivers running from east to west, or from west to east, than with those whose course in a dif- ferent direction, traverses several parallels of latitude. On the 27th, we swam across Mosquito creek, and after a ride of near thirty miles along the Missouri bottoms, encamped near the mouth of the Boyer, about six miles from the wintering place of the party. Early on the following morning, we left our encampment, and were soon after cheered by the report of guns discharging at the Canton- ment. The sight of the trading establishment, called Fort Lisa, gave us more pleasure than can easily be imagined, * Nuttall's Travels into Arkansa, p. 165. Rocky Mountains. 423 except by those who have made journies similar to ours, and have felt the deprivation of all those enjoyments, which belong to the habitations of men. At ten, A. M. we arriv- ed at the Boyer, which Major Long immediately crossed on a small raft, leaving Captain Bell, and Dr. James, with the horses and baggage to wait until some soldiers could be sent out to assist in crossing. These arrived in a few hours, and before three o'clock we had crossed the Boyer, and the Missouri, and found ourselves surrounded by our friends at Engineer Cantonment. In the early part of June, 1820, arrangements were com- pleted for the departure of the Exploring Expedition from their winter cantonment near Council Bluff. By an order of the Honourable Secretary of War, dated 28th February, Major Long had been instructed to explore the country from the Missouri westward to the Rocky Mountains, and thence proceeding southward along the base of these mountains to the Arkansa, to despatch a division of his party down that river. The following orders were issued by Major Long, briefly sketching the proposed route, and assigning appropri- ate duties to each individual of the party. Engineer Cantonment, Council Bluff. June 1st, 1820. Orders. Agreeably to the instructions of the Honourable Secretary of War, the further progress of the Exploring Expedition up the Missouri is arrested during the present season. By the same authority an excursion, by land, to the source of the river Platte, and thence by way of the Arkansa and Red rivers to the Mississippi, is ordered. The Expedition will accordingly proceed on this duty as soon as practicable, and be governed by the order of the 31st March, 1819, issued at the United States' Arsenal, near Pittsburgh, so far as it may be applicable. The duties therein assigned to Major Biddle will be performed by Captain J. R. Bell attached to 424 Expedition to the the expedition by order of the War Department, with the exception of those parts which relate to the manners, cus- toms, and traditions of the various savage tribes which we may pass. The duties thus excepted will be performed by Mr. Say. The duties assigned to Dr. Baldwin and Mr. Jessup, by the order alluded to, will be performed by Dr. E. James, employed for these purposes by the sanction of the Secretary of War. In these duties are excepted those parts which relate to Comparative Anatomy, and the diseas- es, remedies, &c. known amongst the Indians ; which will also be performed by Mr. Say. Lieutenant Graham will take charge of the United States' steam boat Western Engineer, and proceed down the Mis- souri to the Mississippi with the remaining part of the crew originally attached to the boat, on the performance of duties assigned him by special order. The detatchment from the rifle regiment, attached to the Expedition by order from the commanding officer of the 9th military department, will accompany the expedition in their route from this place to Belle Point on the Arkansa, under the immediate command of Lieutenant Swiit, who will in- spect daily their arms and accoutrements, and report their condition to the commanding officer. He will receive such instructions from the commanding officer as occasion may require in relation to the discharge of his duties. Guides, interpreters, hunters, and others attached to the expedition, will perform such duties as may be assigned, from time to time, by the commanding officer. The duties of the expedition being arduous, and the ob- jects in view difficult of attainment, the hardships and ex- posures to be encountered, requiring zealous and obstinate per- severance, it is confidently expected, that all embarked in the enterprize will contribute every aid in their power, tending to a successful and speedy termination of the contemplated tour. S. H. Long, Maj. Engrs. Commanding Exploring Expedition. Rocky Mountains. 425 The party, as now arranged, consisted of the following persons : S. H. Long, Maj. U. S. Topographical Engineers, com- manding the expedition. J. R. Bell, Captain Lt. Artillery, to act as Journalist.* W. H. Swift, assistant Topographer, commanding guard. Thos. Say, Zoologist, &c. E. James, Botanist, Geologist, and Surgeon. T. R. Peale, assistant Naturalist. Saml. Seymour, Landscape Painter. Stephen Julien, Interpreter, French and Indian. H. Dougherty, Hunter. D. Adams, Spanish Interpreter. Z. Wilson, Baggage Master. Oakley and Duncan, Engagees. Corporal Parish, and six privates of the U. S. Army. To these we expected an addition, on our arrival at the Pawnee villages, of two Frenchmen, to serve as guides and interpreters, one of them having already been engaged. Twenty-eight horses and mules had been provided, one for each individual of the party, and eight for carrying packs. Of these, six were the property of the United States, being furnished by the commanding officer at Camp Missouri; the remaining sixteen were supplied by Maj. Long, and others of the party. Our saddles, and other articles of equipage, were of the rudest kind, being, with a few exceptions, such as we had purchased from the Indians, or constructed our- selves. Our outfit comprised the following articles, of provisions, Indian goods, &c. ; viz. 150lb. of pork, 500lb. of biscuit, 3 bushels of parched corn meal, 5 gallons of whiskey, 25lb. * It will be perceived, that in the following narrative, no reference has been made to the notes or journal of Captain Bell, the reason of which is, thaf his journal, in the form of a report, was submitted to the Secretary of War, and consequently the compiler has had no opportunity of consult- ing it. vol. I. 54 426 Expedition to the coffee, 30lb. sugar, and a small quantity of salt, 5lb. Vermil- lion, 2lb. beads, 2 gross of knives, 1 gross of combs, 3 doz. fire steels, 300 flints, 1 doz. gun worms, 2 gross of hawk's bells, 2 doz. mockasin awls, 1 doz. scissors, 6 doz, looking glasses, 30lb. tobacco, and a few trinkets, 2 axes, several hatchets, forage bags, canteens, bullet-pouches, powder horns, tin canisters, skin canoes, packing skins, pack cords, and some small packing boxes for insects, &c. The gentlemen of the party were supplied with such in- struments as were deemed indispensably requisite in their several pursuits. The instruments for topographical pur- poses were, three travelling, and several pocket compasses ; one sextant, with radius of five inches ; one snuff box sex- tant ; one portable horizon with glass frame and mercurial trough ; one and an half pounds mercury, in a case of box- wood ; two, small thermometers; several blank books, port folios, &c. The hunters, interpreters, and attendants were furnished with rifles or muskets ; the soldiers were armed exclusively with rifles, and suitably equipped. Our stock of ammunition amounted in all to about 30 pounds of powder, 20 of balls, and 40 of lead, with a plentiful supply of flints, and some small shot. Several of the Indians about Council Bluff, to whom our proposed route had been explained, and who had witnessed our preparations, affected to laugh at our temerity, in at- tempting what they said we should never be able to accom- plish. They represented some part of the country, through which we intended to travel, as so entirely destitute of water and grass, that neither ourselves nor our horses could be subsisted while passing it. Barony Vasquez, who accom- panied Captain Pike in his expedition to the sources of the Arkansa, assured us there was no probability we could avoid the attacks of hostile Indians, who infested every part of the country. The assault which had been recently made Rocky Mountains, 427 by a party of the Sauks and Foxes, upon a trading boat belonging to Messrs. Pratte and Vasquez, on the Missouri above Council Bluff, in which one man was killed, and seve- ral wounded, had at this time spread considerable terror among those in any degree exposed to the hostilities of the Indians. With these prospects, and with the very inadequate outfit above described, which was the utmost our united means enabled us to furnish, we departed from Engineer Canton- ment, at 11 o'clock, on the 6th of June. The path leading to the Pawnee villages runs in a direc- tion a little south of west from the cantonment, and lies across a tract of high and barren prairie for the first ten miles. At this distance it crosses the Papillon, or Butterfly creek, a small stream discharging into the Missouri, three miles above the confluence of the Platte. Lieutenant Graham and Mr. J. Dougherty accompanied us about five miles on our way ; we were also met by Lieutenant Talcott from Camp Missouri, who crossed the bluffs on foot to take leave of us. Much delay was occasioned, as we passed along, by the de- rangement of the packs, the obstinacy of the mules, and the want of dexterity and experience in our engagees ; we how- ever arrived early in the afternoon at the Papillon, where we encamped. The Papillon, although it traverses a considerable extent of country, was at this time but a trifling stream. Its chan- nel is narrow, the banks steep, and like many other streams, which have their whole course in these arid plains, it is near- ly destitute of water, except in rainy seasons. During the night some rain fell, but as we were furnished with three tents, sufficiently large to shelter all our party, we experienced little inconvenience from the storm. Our baggage was also effectually protected, being laid in heaps, and covered with bear-skins; which were also spread over 428 Expedition to the it when placed upon the pack-horses, during our march by day. We had each two small blankets, which were carried upon Our horses, one being placed under the saddle, and the other upon it. These, with the addition, in some instances, of a great coat, or a blanket-capot, and a valise or a pair of hol- sters, to supply the place of a pillow, were our only articles of bedding. On the morning of the 7th a new disposition was made, in relation to the pack-horses, a man being appointed to attend particularly to each. We breakfasted, and recom- menced our journey at an early hour, and moving forward at an easy pace, arrived about ten o'clock at the Elk-horn, a considerable river., tributary to the Platte. On the preced- ing evening, we had been joined at our camp by a party of three or four Frenchmen, on their way to a hunting camp of the Omawhaws to trade. We purchased of them two small brass kettles, to complete our supply of camp furniture. One of these men had been of Pratte and Vasquez's party, at the time of the late attack, and had received, in that affair, a wound in the back from a rifle ball, which was yet unhealed. In the morning they accompanied us to the Elk-horn, where the wounded Frenchman was one of the first to strip and plunge into the river. Surprising accounts are given of the hardihood, and patience under suffering, manifested by the Indians ; but we have rarely seen one of them exhibit a more striking instance of insensibility to pain, than this Frenchman. The Elk-horn, called Wa-ta-tung-ya by the Otoes, is, where we crossed it, about thirty yards wide, and during a great part of the year, too deep and rapid to admit of being forded. At this time our horses were barely able to keep their feet, in cross- ing the deepest part of the channel. Our heavy baggage was ferried across in a portable canoe, consisting of a single bison hide, which we carried constantly with us. Its construction is Rocky Mountains. 429 extremely simple; the margin of the hide being pierced with several small holes, admits a cord, by which it is drawn into the form of a shallow basin. This is placed upon the water, and is kept sufficiently distended by the baggage which it receives; it is then towed or pushed across. A canoe of this kind will carry from four to five hundred pounds. The squaws, who are exceedingly expert in this sort of naviga- tion, transport not only their baggage, but their children, and sometimes adults, across large rivers, in these canoes and with the most perfect safety. They place their children on the baggage, and convey the whole across the stream, by swimming themselves, and urging their charge before them to the opposite shore. It is rare that any un- pleasant accident occurs in this primitive mode of ferrying.* The Elk-horn enters the Platte about fifty miles above the confluence of that river and the Missouri. Its whole course is through a country nearly destitute of timber. The low plains which extend along its banks have a fertile soil ; but the want of timber opposes a serious obstacle to their set- tlement. The soil and climate here are so entirely similar to those of the country about Grand river and the Little Platte, al- ready described, that no change in the vegetable productions could be expected. A, species of onion, with a root about as large as an ounce ball, and bearing a conspicuous umbel of purple flowers, is very abundant about the streams, and fur- nished a valuable addition to our bill of fare. Soon after crossing the Elk-horn we entered the valley of the Platte, which presented the view of an unvaried plain, from * In Father Venegas' account of California, published at Madrid in 1758, we find a description of a similar method of transportation, used by the natives of that country. "The inhabitants of the banks of the Colo- rado make of the same herbs (a vine called Pita,) little tubs or bins, called Coritas, which generally hold about two bushels of maize; and in these they transport their goods from one shore to the other, without being in the least damaged by the water, they themselves swimming behind, and shoving these vehicles along before them." Vol. i. p. 44. London, 1759. 430 Expedition to the three to eight miles in width, and extending more that one hundred miles along that river, being a vast expanse of prai- rie, or natural meadow, without a hill or other inequality of surface, and with scarce a tree or a shrub to be seen upon it. The woodlands, occupying the islands in the Platte, bound it on one side; the river-hills, low and gently sloped, termi- nate it on the other. At about 3 o'clock P. M. a party of ten Indians were seen crossing the plain, towards the Platte, at a great distance be- fore us. Soon after we arrived at a small creek, where was some scattered timber : here we determined to halt for the night, being informed by our guide that we would meet with no wood for twenty miles beyond. As Indians had been seen in the afternoon, and we were aware of their being still in our neighbourhood, it was thought proper to stake the horses as near as possible to the camp, and to station two sentinels, who were to be relieved during the night. In our encampment we observed the following order. The three tents were pitched in a right line, all fronting in the same direction. In advance of these, at the distance of four feet, our baggage was arranged in six heaps one at the right, and one at the left of the entrance to each tent, and protected from the weather by bear-skins, thrown over them. This disposition was made, not only for the convenience of the party, but that our baggage, in case of an attack of the Indians, might serve as a kind of breastwork, behind which we might be, in some measure, sheltered from danger. At any rate, having our baggage thus arranged, we should know where to find it, and where to rally, in any emergency by day or night. On the ensuing morning, (8th,) we continued our journey- along the north side of the valley of the Platte, at the dis- tance of four or five miles from the river, the direction of our course South, 85° West, which we followed near twenty- miles. Rocky Mountains. 431 In all our marches we observed the following order. Capt. Bell, mounted on a horse whose gate was regular and uniform, and well calculated for the estimation of distances, preceded the party, attended by our guide. — The soldiers and attendants, formed into two squads, for the better ma- nagement of the pack horses, followed in single file. — The scientific gentlemen occupied any part of the line that best suited their convenience. — Major Long followed in the rear, for the purpose of superintending the re-adjust- ment of deranged pucks, and urging any disposed to linger, to the observance of a close order of march; a duty attended with no inconsiderable trouble and perplexity. Though our route lay at the distance of several miles from the Platte, we could distinctly see the narrow and inter- rupted line of timber which grows along its course, and, oc- casionally, we had a transient view of the river itself, spread- ing like an expansive lake, and embosoming innumerable islands. About eighteen miles from our encampment, our course led us into the valley of a small river, called La petite Coquille or Muscleshell creek, which we ascended six miles, not deviating from the course we had taken. In the middle of the day we encountered a violent thunder-storm without dismounting from our horses. The plain about us, for a great distance, was destitute of timber, and so level that our party formed the most prominent object in an extent of seve- ral miles. It is not surprising that, in this situation, we were a little startled at seeing the lightning strike upon the ground, at the distance of two hundred yards from us. We could not have been deceived, in relation to this appearance, as we distinctly saw the water and mud thrown several feet into the air by the shock. The storm was so violent that, notwithstanding all our care, we could not prevent our bag- gage from being wet. We crossed the Coquille six miles above the place where it enters the valley of the Platte. This 432 Expedition to the we effected with some difficulty, the banks being steep and muddy, and immediately afterwards encamped to dry our baggage. The Coquille is about eight yards across; its bed muddy, and the current moderate. Its course is circuitous, travers- ing some inconsiderable tracts of fertile and well wooded bottom land : in one of these our camp was placed. The night was warm and the mosquitoes swarming in inconceiv- able multitudes. Our baggage had been wet on the preceding day, and again by a heavy shower in the night : as the morning was cloudy, we remained in camp for some time, and attempted to dry our clothes and blankets by a large fire. After break- fasting we again got upon our horses, and, travelling nearly southwest, arrived in the afternoon at the valley of the Wolf river, or Loup fork of the Platte. This river is called by the Indians the Little Missouri, on account of its resem- blance, in the velocity of its current, the turbidness of its waters, and other respects, to that river. Its sources are in the country of the Poncaras, opposite those of the Quicurre.* Like the Platte, its immediate valley is a broad and woodless plain, almost without any perceptible unevenness of surface, and bounded on each side by paral- lel ranges of low and barren hills. During our ride, as we were approaching the Loup fork, we met two Pawnee Indians, handsomely mounted, and, as they informed us, on their way to dance the calumet dance with the Omawhavvs. We gave them a small quantity of tobacco, and they departed, appearing highly pleased. In the fertile grounds, along the valley of the Loup fork, we ob- served several plants which we had not before seen : among these was one belonging to the family of the Malvaceae, with a large tuberous root which is soft and edible, being by no * See Lewis and Clark vol. 1. p. 67. Phil. Rocky Mountains, 43 n means ungrateful to the taste.* We observed also the downy spike of the rabbitVfoot plaintain (Plantago Lago- pus, Ph.) intermixed with the short grasses of the prairie. The long flowered Puccoon, (Batschia longiflora, N.) a larger and more beautiful plant than the B. canescens is here frequent. As we proceed westward, some changes are observed in the character of the soil and the aspect of vege- tation. The Larkspurs and Lichnedias, (species of Phlox and Delphinium,) so common and beautiful in all the coun- try between St. Louis and Council BlufF, are succeeded by several species of Milk vetch,f some Vicias, and the superb Sweet pea (Lathyrus polymorphus). Every step of our pro- gress to the west brought us upon a less fertile soil. We had as yet seen no game except a few antelopes, too wild and watchful to be taken without much trouble. In the low prai- ries we saw several curlews and marbled godwits, with their young; Bartram's sand-piper was also very frequent. A little before sun-set we crossed Grape creek, a small and rapid stream of clear water, and soon after arrived at the Loup fork, where we encamped. The banks of this river are of a fine white sand, and are elevated no more than about eight feet above the surface of the stream, at a time of low water. It does not however appear that the low plains, con- tiguous to the Loup fork, are at any season inundated, the channel being sufficiently wide, and the current rapid enough to discharge all the water, which may at any time be brought down from above. * This plant is destitute of the exterior calix of the genus Malva, to which however, it is more closely allied than to Sida, into which it would appear to fall by its artificial characters. It appears to be a congener to the two new plants lately brought by Mr. Nuttall from Arkansa, and which have received the name ofNuttalia. f Astragalus carnosus, N. A. Jlissouriensis, N. A. Lazmani, Ph. Gaura coccinnea, N. Troximon marginatum, Ph. Hymenopappus tenuij'n/ius, Ph. Trichodium luxiflorum, Mx. Atheropogon ofigostachi/um, N. Viola palmate, Ph? in fruit. Hedeoma hirta, N- Hordeutn jubatum, Anemone lenella, Ph. and other plants were among our collections of this day. VOL. I. 55 434 Expedition to the In the evening, and on the following morning, observations were taken to ascertain the magnetic variation, which was found to be 135° east. On the morning of the 10th, we crossed Beaver creek, six miles southwest of our encampment. Here we were com- pelled to carry across our baggage by hand, the creek being too deep and muddy to admit risking it on the pack-horses. In fording this difficult stream, we had the misfortune to lose an important part of the lock of an air-gun, and as there were no means of replacing the lost article, it was de- termined to send back the gun, from the Pawnee villages by one of the traders, who was soon to return to the Missouri. While we were encamped at this spot, being detained by a heavy shower, three Frenchmen, and two Indians, arrived at the ford, on their way to the Pawnee villages. They told us they had eaten nothing since they left the Missouri. One of the Frenchmen brought a letter from lieutenant Graham, and a box containing a quantity of vaccine virus, transmitted to the exploring party, for the purpose of introducing vaccination among the Indians. The box alluded to, had been sent to the war department, by Mr. Sylvanus Fancher, a gentleman in Connecticut, and forwarded to the commanding officer of the expedition. It contained a considerable quantity of virus, carefully enclostd in a variety of packing apparatus, together with instructions relative to the disposition and applica- tion of it. But as it was not transmitted till after the depar- ture of the expedition, from Pittsburgh, it had been forwarded by mail to St. Louis, whence it was conveyed up the Missouri, by a gentleman of the military expedition, under Colonel Atkinson. Unfortunately, the keel-boat, on board of which it had been deposited, was wrecked in ascending the river, and the box and its contents, although saved from the wreck, was thoroughly drenched, and the virus completely ruined. It was received three or four weeks after the catastrophe just mentioned, and was still drenched with water. Rocky Mountains. 435 The Frenchmen, had, on their way, caught a horse, be- longing to Mr. J. Dougherty, and intended tor the use of his brother, who was of our party. He had escaped several weeks previous, from Engineer Cantonment, and since that time had been wandering in the prairies. This form- ed a valuable addition to our stock of horses, as a number of them were already unfit for service, on account of sore backs. The Frenchmen and Indians were supplied with provisions from our packs, and proceeded immediately on their way, intending to reach the Pawnee villages the same evening. At a late hour in the afternoon we resumed our journey, and at the distance of four miles from Beaver creek, crossed the creek of Souls, a small and muddy stream, in which two of the pack-horses fell, again wetting our baggage. At sunset we arrived at a small creek, eleven miles dis- tant from the village of the Grand Pawnees, where we en- camped. On the following morning, having arranged the party ac- cording to rank, and given the necessary instructions for the preservation of order, we proceeded forward and in a short time came in sight of the first of the Pawnee villages. The trace on which we had travelled since we left the Missouri, had the appearance of being more and more frequented as we approached the Pawnee towns; and here, instead of a single footway, it consisted of more than twenty parallel paths, of similar size and appearance. At a few miles dis- tance from the village, we met a party of eight or ten squaws with hoes and other instruments of agriculture, on their way to the corn plantations. They were accompanied by one young Indian, but in what capacity, whether as assistant, pro- tector, or task master, we were not informed. After a ride of about three hours, we arrived before the village, and des- patched a messenger to inform the chief of our approach. Answer was returned that he was engaged with his chiefs 436 Expedition to the and warriors at a medicine feast, and could not, therefore, come out to meet us. We were soon surrounded by a crowd of women and children, who gazed at us with some expres- sions of astonishment, but as no one appeared to welcome us to the village, arrangements were made for sending on the horses and baggage to a suitable place for encampment, while Major Long, with several gentlemen, who wished to accom- pany him, entered the village. The party which accompanied Major Long, after groping about some time, and traversing a considerable part of the village, arrived at the lodge of the principal chief. Here we were again informed that Tarrarecazvaho, with all the prin- cipal men of the village, were engaged at a medicine feast. Notwithstanding his absence, some mats were spread for us upon the ground, in the back part of the lodge. Upon these we sat down, and after waiting some time, were pre- sented with a large wooden dish of hominy, or boiled maize. In this was a single spoon of the horn of a bison, large enough to hold half a pint, which, being used alternately by each of the party, soon emptied the dish of its contents. The interior of this capacious dwelling was dimly lighted from a hole at the top, through which the sun's rays, in a de- fined column, fell aslant upon the earthen floor. Immediately under this hole, which is both window and chimney, is a small depression in the centre of the floor, where the fire is made; but the upper parts of the lodge are constantly filled with smoke; adding much to the air of gloominess and obscurity, which prevail within. The furniture of Long-hair's lodge consisted of mats, ingeniously woven of grass or rushes, bi- son robes, wooden dishes, and one or two small brass kettles. In the part of the lodge immediately opposite the entrance, we observed a rude niche in the Wall, which was occupied by a bison skull. It appeared to have been exposed to the weather, until the flesh and periosteum had decayed, and the bones had become white. JRocky Mountains. 437 In this lodge we saw a number of squaws of different ages, but all as we supposed the wives of Long-hair. This chief, who is somewhat of a Turk in his domestic establishment, has eleven wives, nine of whom are quiet occupants of the same lodge. He has but ten children. Our visit to this village seemed to excite no great degree of attention. Among the crowd, who surrounded us before we entered the village, we observed several young squaws rather gaily dressed, being wrapped in clean and new blan- kets, and having their heads ornamented with wreaths of gnaphalium and the silvery leaves of the prosalea canescens. On the tops of the lodges we also saw some display of fine- ry, which we supposed to have been made on account of our visit. Flags were hoisted, shields, and bows, and quivers, were suspended in conspicuous places, scalps were hung outj in short, the people appeared to have exposed whatever they possessed, in the exhibition of which, they could find any gratification of their vanity. Aside from these, we received no distinguished marks of attention from the Grand Pawnees. After spending an hour or two at their village, we retired to our camp about a mile distant. Here we were shortly af- terwards visited by Long-hair, the Malicious chief, and se- veral others. They had with them a young Spaniard, who interpreted Pawnee and French, by whose means we were able to communicate freely with them. They offered some apology, for not receiving us at their village, saying, they could not have left their medicine feast, if the village had been on fire. We caused our intended route to be explained to them, with the objects we had in view, in undertaking so long a journey. To this they answered, that our undertaking was attended with great difficulty and danger, that the coun- try about the head of the Platte, was filled with bands of powerful and ferocious Indians, who would lose no opportu- nity to attack and injure us, that in some parts of our route, we must suffer from want of water, in others there was no 438 Expedition to the game. In short, said the Grand chief, " you must have long hearts, to undertake such a journey with so weak a force; hearts that would reach from the earth to the heavens." These representations would, it is probable, have had some effect upon our spirits, had we not supposed, they were made entirely for that purpose. The Pawnees undoubtedly hoped to alarm our fears to such a degree, ihat we should be induced to relinquish our proposed journey; their de- sign being to deter us from passing through their hunting grounds, and perhaps hoping by these means to possess themselves of a larger share of the articles, we had provided for Indian presents. Finding our determination was not to be shaken, they ad- vised us to ascend the Loup Fork, instead of taking the route by the Platte, which we had mentioned. This advice, and the statement by which it was accompanied, that there were no bisons on the Platte, we suspected of originating from the same motive, which had induced them to make the repre- sentation above mentioned; it was not, therefore, allowed in any manner to influence our determination. After collecting from them what .information we could obtain, relative to the country to the west, we endeavoured to dismiss them with some presents. They were not, how- ever, easily to be satisfied — they importuned us for tobacco, and other articles, which the limited nature of our supplies would not allow us to give, as we expected soon to meet with Indians, whose good will it would be more important for us to purchase. Our camp was something more than a mile from the vil- lage. The intervening space, as well as the plain for a great extent on all sides, was covered with great numbers of horses, intermixed with men, women, and children. The men hav- ing no serious business, pass much of their time in the open air, either on horseback, or engaged at some game of hazard. The Pawnees are expert horsemen, and delight in the ex- Rocky Mountains. 439 hibition of feats of skill and adroitness. Many of their horses are branded, but this is the case with such only as are taken in their predatory excursions against the Spaniards of New Mexico, or the south-western Indians; the branded horses all come originally from the Spaniards. It does not appear, that the Indians have any method of affixing distinctive marks to their animals. >Each Indian has usually but a very limited number of horses, which are as well known, and as univer- sally acknowledged to be his, as the children or other mem- bers of his family. Some of the finest horses which we ob- served, were ornamented with gaudy trappings, and furni- ture of Spanish manufacture. We spent sometime in attempting to explain to the chiefs, the nature and effects of the vaccine disease, and in endea- vouring to persuade them to influence some of their people to submit to inoculation; but in this we were unsuccess- • ful. It is now several years, since the ravages of the small pox have been experienced among them, and it is pro- bable they feel an undue degree of security against its future visitations. We were, however, by no means confident, that they comprehended what we said on the subject of vac- cination, if they did it is not probable their confidence in us was sufficient to induce them to receive it as truth. All we were able to effect, was to persuade the young Spanish in- terpreter, to allow us to make use of his arm, to show the Indians th^.t the proposed operation was by no means a for- midable one. With the same intention, the operation was performed upon Major Long's arm, and that of Mr. H. Dougherty. We were not very solicitious to make the experiment among them, our virus, as before remarked, being unfit for use. We were accordingly afraid of impairing their confi- dence in the remedy. In the plain about the village, we noticed several little groups of squaws, busily engaged in dressing the skins of 440 Expedition to the the bison for robes. When the processes of tanning and dressing are completed, and the inner surface of the skin dry, figures are traced upon it with vermillion, and other showy colours. These are designed as ornaments, but are sometimes a record of important facts. The story of a battle is often de- picted in this way, and the robe of a warrior is frequently decorated with the narration in pictures, of some of his ex- ploits. During the afternoon our camp was somewhat thronged by the Indians, offering to trade horses, and squaws pro- posing barters, but at night they withdrew towards their vil- lage, and all remained quiet. As the day began to dawn on the following morning, nu- merous parties of squaws, accompanied by their dogs, were seen on their way from the village to the corn patches, scat- tered at the distance of several miles. At sunrise we mounted our horses, and arranging our- selves as on the preceding day, and carrying a white silk flag with a painted design, emblematic of peaceable intentions in the front, and the United States' flag in the centre of our party, we moved forward towards the second village, dis- tant about three miles from our camp. The bands which inhabit this village, are called Repub- lican Pawnees. This name, it is said, has been applied to this band, in consequence of their having seceded from the parent stock or Grand Pawnees, some years since, and esta- blished themselves under a separate government. They resided formerly on the Republican Fork of the Konzas river, to which they have given their name; whence they removed a few years since to their present situation, that they might enjoy the protection of their more powerful allies, the Grand Pawnees. Their village is distant four miles from that of the Grand Pawnees, and like it on the im- mediate bank of the river. Fool Robe their chief, received us Rocky Mountains. 441 with a little more attention than we had met on the preced- ing day, shaking us each by the hand. He afterwards con- ducted us to his lodge, within the village, but excused him- self from feasting us, saying, his squaws were all absent at the cornfields. It was a war party from this band, which had plundered the detachment from the steam boat, on the preceding sum- mer near the Konza village. For this outrage they had been compelled by the prompt and vigorous interference of Major O' Fallon, the Indian agent, to make ample restitution. Whether it was, that Fool Robe and his warriors were yet a little sore on account of this affair, or for some other rea- son, it was evident, we were not welcome visitants. We had hitherto entertained exalted ideas, of the hospitality of the Pawnees, in their manner of receiving strangers, and were consequently a little disappointed at the reception we had met. We stayed but a short time with Fool Robe. Having briefly described to him the outline of our intended journey, and listened to his remarks and advice respecting it, we re- mounted our horses, and proceeded towards the Loup vil- lage. On our way we were met by the Knife-chief, who, having heard of our intention to visit him, came out on horse-back, and met us more than a mile from the village. He gave us a very cordial and friendly reception, frequently rubbing his breast in token of the satisfaction he felt at seeing us. His frank and intelligent countenance, and his impressive ges- tures made him easily understood, without the aid of an in- terpreter. As our cavalcade passed by him, he appeared to examine with some attention, the physiognomy and appoint- ments of the individuals composing it, but when his rapid eye alighted upon Julien, with whom he could use much freedom, he rode up to him and eagerly inquired by means of signs (v. Nos. 27, and 14, in the Appendix), if we had brought with us any whiskey, which, we were grieved to VOL. i. 56 442 Expedition to the learn, by this intimation, that he was acquainted with, and would indulge in; Julien replied in the negative, by the ex- hibition of the proper sign, (No. 65,) with which he did not betray any dissatisfaction, although it was evident from his subsequent conversation, that he believed it to be false. On the wa) to the village, he pointed out a convenient place for us to dispose of our horses and establish our camp. Here we dismounted, leaving our horses in the care of the guard, and followed the chief to his lodge. Soon after our arrival, a large dish was placed before us, according to the custom of the Indians, filled with boiled sweet corn. While we were eating, the Knife-chief with the principal men of his nation, were sitting silently behind us. Having finished our repast, we gave the Indians an account of ourselves, the occasion of our visit to them, our intended journey to the mountains at the head of the Platte, &c, as in the other villages. To all this the Knife-chief listened with great attention. He expressed himself satisfied with the account we had given of the objects of our enterprize, but feared we should be ill- treated by the savages we should meet. " Your heart must be strong,1' said he, " to go upon so hazardous a journey. May the Master of Life be your protector." The same be- nediction had been given us by the chiefs of the Republican and Grand Pawnees, probably with nearly the same degree of ingenuousness and sincerity. The Pawnees are at war with the Arrapahoes, Kaskaias, and other erratic bands, who wan- der about the sources of the Platte and Arkansa. Their war parties are often sent out in that direction, where they some- times meet a spirited reception from their enemies. It may be on this account, that the Pawnees connect the idea of imminent danger, to an excursion into those parts of the country which we proposed to visit. It is, however, highly probable, their unwillingness to have us pass through their hunting grounds, was the most productive cause of all the anxiety, and all the fears they expressed on our account. Rocky Mountains. 443 The chief addressed us fur some time with great apparent earnestness, but his discourse as it came to our comprehen- sion, by the aid of an interpreter, whom we obtained at this village, seemed directed solely to one object, the exciting our compassion for his poverty. " Father — You see me here; I am very poor; my young men are very poor; we hope our great Father, will not forget the red-skins his children, they are poor," with a great deal more in the same strain. He, however, returned frequently to the subject of our journey to the west. " I will tell my young men," said he, (meaning the war parties which should be sent out in that direction,) " when they meet you, to take you by the hand, and smoke the peace pipe with you," The Kuife-chief, with his son Petalesharoo, celebrated for his filial affection, his valour and his humanity, visited us at our camp in the afternoon, and we were proud to entertain one whom we thought so worthy of our admiration. We also received a visit from a Medicine-man, who, having heard there were great medicine men belonging to our party, re- quested to be shown some of the mysteries of their profes- sion. We accordingly displayed before him a pair of bullet- forceps, a small case of sugeons' instruments, and some simi- lar articles, and began to explain to him the use of each. He attended for some time to our discourse, but apparently without comprehending any part of it, and at length turned abruptly away, with an air of dissatisfaction and contempt. The Canadian, who had been engaged before we left the Missouri as a guide, now gave us to understand, that it was not his intention to accompany the expedition. Having been informed of other persons in the village, who were qualified for this undertaking, Major Long made application to several of these, who at first expressed a willingness to accompany him, but soon afterwards recalled their promises. Finding them disposed to trifle, in this manner, he at length assured them that unless some one was immediately procured to 444 Expedition to the attend the expedition, as guide, their refusal, and the breach of engagement on the part of Bijeau, should be made known to the agent, and the whole corps of Canadian traders be deprived of the privilege of residing, or trading among the Pawnees. This representation had the desired effect. A ludicrous degree of consternation and alarm was depicted upon the faces of all the traders, and they immediately made a common concern of a subject which before they had treat- ed with very little attention. Two were immediately selected from their number, and were in a short time ready to attend us. It is probable almost any other method of punishment would have appeared to them less terrible. Having been long resident among the Indians, they have conformed to their mode of life, which certainly is not without its charms to the uninformed and the idle. A tie not less powerful is that of conjugal and paternal affection, they having among the Indians wives and children relying upon their exertions for protection and maintenance. About the village we saw several parties of youg men eagerly engaged at games of hazard. One of these, which we noticed particularly, is played between two persons, and something is staked on the event of each game. The instru- ments used are a small hoop, about six inches in diameter, which is usually wound with thongs of leather, and a pole five or six feet long, on the larger end of which a limb is left to project about six inches. The whole bears some re- semblance to a shepherd's crook. The game is played upon a smooth beaten path, at one end of which the gamester commences, and running at full speed, he first rolls from him the hoop, then discharges after it the pole, which slides along the path pursuing the hoop until both stop together, at the distance of about thirty yards from the place whence they were thrown. After throwing them from him the gamester continues his pace, and the Indian, the hoop, and the pole arrive at the end of the path about the same time. The effort Rocky Mountains, 445 appears to be to place the end of the pole either in the ring, or as near as possible, and we could perceive that those casts were considered best when the ring was caught by the hook at the end of the pole. What constitutes a point, or how many points are reckoned to the game, we could not ascertain. It is, however, sufficiently evident that they are desperate gamesters, often losing their ornaments, articles of dress, &c. at play. This game, like some of those described in a former part of this work, requires considerable exertion, and is well cal- culated for the exhibition of that gracefulness of figure, and that ease and celerity of motion in which the savages so far surpass their civilized neighbours. We saw many young men engaged at these diversions, who had thrown aside their robes, leggins, and all superfluous articles of dress, display- ing a symmetry of proportion, and beauty of form, which we have rarely seen surpassed. They were so intent upon their diversion that in some instances our approach towards them, as we were rambling about the village, did not for a moment call off their attention from the game. The population of the three Pawnee villages was estima- ted by Capt. Pike, in 1806, at 6,223, and they were at that time supposed to be able to call into the field 1,993 warriors. At present it is believed they would fall short of this esti- mate, particularly in the number of warriors. They are, how- ever, still numerous, and are said to be increasing, and are respected by the Sioux, and other neighbouring nations, as warlike and powerful. About the three villages are six or eight thousand horses, feeding in the plains during the day, but confined at night. These, with a breed of sharp-eared, meagre, wolf-like dogs, are their only domestic animals. On the approach of winter they conceal cheir stores of corn, dry pumpkins, beans, &c. and with their whole retinue of dogs and horses desert their villages. This they are compelled to do from the want of 446 Expedition to the wood, not only for fuel, but for the support of their nume- rous horses. They encamp in their lodges of skins wherever the cotton wood is found in sufficient quantities for their horses, and. game for themselves. The horses, in the country bordering the Missouri, are fed, during the winter, in the extensive wooded bottoms of that river, and are not, therefore, con- fined exclusively to the cotton wood, having access to other timber, also to the rushes and coarse grass which abound in the bottoms. We are, however, well assured that the Indian horses, farther to the west, about the upper branches of the Platte, and Arkansa, subsist, and thrive, during the winter, with no other article of food than the bark and branches of the cotton wood. The winter at the Pawnee villages is said to be uncommonly severe, but is probably little, if any more so, than at Council Bluff, on the Missouri. Thermometric observations at Council Bluff, and at St. Peters on the Mis- sissippi, prove that the climate at these two places does not very widely differ from that of the corresponding latitudes on the Atlantic coast, except that it is at times something colder. The vicissitudes of temperature appear to be equally great and sudden. The climate at Council Bluff is beyond the influence of the south-western winds from the Gulf of Mexico, which have been supposed to have so perceptible an effect to soften the rigors of winter in the valley of the lower Mississippi. The three Pawnee villages, with their pasture grounds, and insignificant enclosures, occupy about ten miles in length of the fertile valley of the Wolf river. The surface is wholly naked of timber, rising gradually to the river hills, which are broad and low, and from a mile to a mile and an half distant. The soil of this valley is deep and of inexhaustible fertility. The surface, to the depth of two or three feet, is a dark coloured vegetable mould intermixed with argilla- Rocky Mountains. 447 ceous loam, and still deeper, with a fine sileceous sand. The agriculture of the Pawnees is extremely rude. They are sup- plied with a few hoes by the traders, but many of their la- bors are accomplished with the rude instruments of wood and bone which their own ingenuity supplies. They plant corn and pumpkins in little patches along the sides of deep ravines, and wherever by any accident the grassy turf has been eradicated. Sometimes these little plantations are en- closed with a sort of wicker fence and in other instances are left entirely open. These last are probably watched by the squaws during the day time, when the horses run at large. We slept on the night of the 12th at our encampment in front of the Pawnee Loup village. During the night all remained at rest except the dogs, who howled in concert, in the same voice, and nearly to the same tune, as the wolves, to whose nightly serenade we were now accustomed. As soon as the day dawned we observed the surrounding plain filled with groups of squaws, with their small children, trooping to their cornfields in every direction. Some, who pass- ed our encampment, lingereda momentto admire our novel ap- pearance; but the air of serious business was manifest in their countenances, and they soon hurried away to their daily labors. Some of the groups of young females were accom- panied by a jolly looking young man as a protector. Their corn is usually gathered before it is entirely ripe, it is then boiled, cut from the cob, and dried. Their cookery consists in boiling it, either wTith or without the tallow of the bison, according to the state of their supplies. The pumpkins are cut in slips, which are dried in the sun, and afterwards woven into mats for the convenience of carrying. They of- fered us these articles in exchange for tobacco, vermillion, beads, looking glasses, and various other trinkets. Also jerk- ed bison beef, and the tallow of that animal, of which we purchased a small quantity. We saw among them the 448 Expedition to the Pomme blanche, so called by the Canadian traders and boat- men, which is the root of the Psoralea esculenta. It is eaten either boiled or roasted, and somewhat resembles the sweet potatoe. At ten o'clock, on the morning of the 13th, we commenc- ed crossing the river, opposite the village. This we found an undertaking of some difficulty, as the current was rapid, and the bottom partook something of the nature of quick- sands. Major Long, Mr. Say, and one or two others, who were riding at the head of our line, had nearly crossed, and were wading their horses about mid-sides deep in the water, when they were suddenly thrown from their saddles by the sinking of their horses feet in the sand; the horses, however, extricated themselves by their own exertion; and those of the party who had experienced this unexpected immersion, were greeted, upon their standing up in the water, by the shouts and acclamations of the Pawnees who lined the shore we had left. Major Long's gun and jacob-staff, as well as Mr. Say's gun, blanket, and other articles, were dropped into the river; all of these were, however, recovered except the blanket; and Mr. Say, having lost the greater part of his furniture at the river of Souls, by the ill-timed activity of his horse, was now, in a great measure, unencumbered with baggage. At length, by leading our horses, we arrived in safety on the opposite shore, where we encamped, intending to make some further barters with the Pawnees, and to dry some of our baggage, guns, &c. which had been wet in crossing. The sand of this river, which in the aggregate has a very white appearance, consists principally of minute grains of transparent quartz, mixed with some which are red, yellow, and variously coloured. The shore, opposite the Loup village, is covered with shrubs and other plants, growing among •the loose sands. One of the most common is a large flowering rose, rising to about three feet high, and diffusing a most Rocky Mountains. 449 grateful fragrance. The Symphoria glomerata, common in all the country west of the Mississippi thus far , is also a beau- tiful shrub very frequent at this place; the flowers are white, with a faint and delicate tinge of red, having the inside of the corrolla densely villous, like the Mitchilla, to which plant it is manifestly allied. On the hills, at a little distance from the river, we observed the Cactus fragilis. This plant, which was first detected on the Missouri by Lewis and Clark, has been accurately described by Mr. Nuttall. The articulations or joints of which it consists, are small, oblong, and tapering, but separate from each other with great readi- ness, and adhere by means of the barbed spines, with which they are thickly set, to whatever they may happen to touch. This has led to a saying among the hunters, that the plant grows without roots. In the afternoon a young Indian belonging to the Ankara nation on the Missouri, but who resided among the Paw- nees, stopped at our camp, on his return from a solitary excursion to the Arkansa. He had brought with him, from one of the upper branches of that river, two masses of salt, each weighing about thirty pounds. This salt is pure and perfect, consisting of large crystalline grains, so concreted together as to form a mass about twenty inches in diameter and six in thickness. It had evidently been formed by the evaporation of water in some pond or basin, and that surface of the mass, which was its lower in its original position, was intermixed with red sand, indicating the sort of soil in which it is found. Mr. Peale procured some specimens in exchange for tobacco. This Indian had been many days absent, on his excursion, and as he sat upon his horse before our encampment we had an opportunity to note a trait in the Indian character, which has been the subject of remark by many authors, and which we had previously observed in several instances ourselves; we allude to the apparent coolness which friends, vol. i. 57 4J0 Expedition to the and the nearest relatives, observe to each other when they met- 1 after a long separation. Several of his fellow townsmen, who were about our encampment, hardly noticed him when he first appeared, and it was only after the lapse of a consi- derable interval that one of them spoke to him, but without any visible ceremony of greeting. On the morning of the 14th, we left our encampment, op- posite the village of the Pawnee Loups, and proceeded on our journey, taking the most direct course towards the Platte. Our party had here received an addition of two men, one named Bijeau, engaged as guide and interpreter, the other, Ledoux, to serve as hunter, farrier, &c. Roth were Frenchmen residing permanently among the Pawnees, and had been repeatedly on the head waters of the Platte and Arkansa, for the purpose of hunting and trapping bea- ver. Bijeau was partially acquainted with several Indian languages; in particular, that of the Crow nation, which is extensively understood by the western tribes, and, by fre- quent intercourse with the savages he had gained a complete knowledge of the language of signs, universally current among them. The grforrn, four or five lobed, divisions cuneate-oblong, margin crenate, pe- tioles long- and alternate. The submersed leaves are, in every respect, si- milar to the floating ones. Pentstemou erianthera, N., Poa quinquefida, Poientilla anserina, Scrophularia lanceolata, Myosotis glomerata.TS.? &c, were also seen here. Rocky Mountains. 499 herbage, which always marks the area of the prairie-dog vil- lages. Indeed we have observed several large villages, with scarce a trace of \egetation about them. The food of the marmot consisting of grasses and herbaceous plants, it is not perhaps easy to assign a reason for the preference which, in selecting the site of his habitation, he always shows for the most barren places, unless it be that he may enjoy an unob- structed view of the surrounding country, in order to be seasonably warned of the approach of wolves, or other ene- mies. Rattle snakes of a particular species* are sometimes seen in these villages. They are found between the Mississippi and the Rocky Mountains, and appear to prefer an unpro- ductive soil, where their sluggish gait may not be retarded by the opposing obstacles of grass and weeds. Whilst ex- ploring Boyer Creek, of the Missouri, in the Spring of 1820, our party met with six or eight of them during one day's march on the prairie, and on our subsequent journey to the Rocky Mountains we several times encountered equal or even greater numbers, in the same space of time. This is the species of serpent which travellers have observed to * Crotalus tergeminus, S. Body dusky cinereous, a triple series of deep brown spots; beoeaih with a double series of btack spots. Body pale cinereous brown, a triple series of fuscous spots, dorsal se- ries consisting of about forty-two large, transversely oblong-oval spots, each widely emarginate before, and obsoletely edged with whitish; lateral series, spots transversely oval, opposite to those of the back; between the dorsal and lateral series, is a. series of obsolete, fuliginous spots alternating with those of the two other series; head above with nine plates on the ante- rior part, on which area band and about three spots, two undulated vittae terminating in and confluent with the first spot of the neck, a black vitta passes through the eye, aud terminates on the neck each side; beneath white a double irregular series of black spots, more confused towards the tail; tail above with five or six fuscous fasciae, beneath white irrorate with black points, six terminal plates bifid. Length 2ft. 2 1-8 in. tail 2 1-8 in. Plates of body 151. of tail 19. Bifid plates at tip 6. Another specimen, much smaller, PI. 152, subcaudal, 20, scales at tip 3. 500 Expedition to the frequent the villages of the prairie dogs, and to which they have attributed the unnatural habit of voluntary domicilia- tion with that interesting animal. It is true that the terge- minus, like many other serpents, will secure a refuge from danger in any hole of the earth, rock, or fallen tree, that may present itself, regardless of the rightful occupant; but we witnessed no facts which could be received as proof that it is an acceptable inmate of the dwelling of the Arctomys. From the disparity in the number of plates and scales, and from the greater size of the vertebral spots in this species than in the C. miliaris, we have been induced to consider this a distinct species. Specimens are in the Philadel- phia museum. On the 5th July we left our camp at an early hour, and ascended the Platte about ten miles. Here the party en- camped for the day, and Dr. fames and Mr. Peale with two riflemen, Verplank and Bernard, went out for an excur- sion on foot, intending to ascend the Cannon-ball creek to the mountains which appeared to be about five miles distant. This creek is rapid and clear, flowing over a bed paved with rounded masses of granite and gneiss. It is from a supposed resemblance of these masses to cannon balls that the creek has received its name from the French hunters. The channel is sunk from fifty to one hundred feet below the common level of the plain. This plain consists of a bed of coarse pebbles, gravel, and sand, and its surface is thinly covered with prickly pears and a scanty growth of starved and rigid grasses. Among these, the hygrometric stipas, [S.juncea, S. barbata] are ex- tremely troublesome, their barbed and pointed seeds adhering and penetrating like the quills of the porcupine into every part of the dress with which they come in contact. The long and rigid awn is contorted or strait in proportion to the humidity or dryness of the atmosphere, indicating the changes in this respect with the precision of the nicest hy- grometer. Rocky Mountains. 501 The detached party extended their walk about eight miles without finding the apparent distance to the base of the mountain had very considerably diminished. They had unluckily forgotten to make any provision for dinner, and now found themselves fatigued and hungry at the dis- tance of eight miles from the encampment or the main body, and so far from the mountains that it was evidently impos- sible to reach them and return on the same day. They therefore determined to relinquish the attempt, and Mr. Peale was fortunate enough to kill a couple of curliews, which were roasted and eaten without loss of time. Near the place of this halt they observed some small sand- stone ridges similar to those on the Platte below, and col- lected among other plants, the species of currant, [Ribes aureum?~\ so often mentioned bv Lewis and Clark, the fruit of which formed an important article of the subsistence of their party while crossing the Rocky Mountains. They also saw about the shelvings of the sandstone rocks, which formed for some distance the banks of the stream, in- numerable nests of the cliff swallow, similar to those seen on the Missouri. In returning to the camp by a different route, they were much annoyed by the prickly pears, cover- ing the ground so closely, that their feet were frequent- ly wounded by the thorns, against which their mockasins presented but a very inadequate protection. Having killed a young antelope, they re-crossed the Platte, which was here about three feet deep, clear, and rapid, and arrived at camp after sunset. Here a complete set of observations, for latitude, longi- * The ripened fruit of this widely distributed shrub is variable in co- lour. In dry and exposed situations about the higher parts of the moun- tains, we have met with the berries of a deep purple, while in the low grounds, they are fulvous or nearly white. On the Cannon-ball creek we saw also the common virgin's bower. Clematis vir